Miss Corson's practical American cookery and household management

Front matter

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. ^

V

MISS CORSON'S

Preface

IN submitting this book to the pubHc, the author carries out a long-cherished purpose, which had its inception in a suggestion made to her by the Hon. John Eaton, United-States Commissioner of Education, during a discussion concerning the cookery of America. The fact that the cookery of Europe, and especially of France, enters so largely into the author's scheme of teaching, and of constructing her books already pubHshed, was being commented upon ; and in response to her statement that this was occasioned by tlie demands of the public, and not from any lack of variety or excellence in American cookery, the commissioner suggested the preparation of a work sufficiently broad in scope and minute in detail to verify her assertion that genuine American cookery is both wholesome and palatable, and has lost none of the traditional excellence which characterized it in our grandmothers' days.

To facilitate the work, the commissioner caused the publication and extended circulation of the following correspondence : —

To the Hon. John Eaton, U.S. Cotmrtissioner of Education,

Bureau of Education, Dept. of the Interior, Washington, D.C.

Dear Sir, — I venture to ask your help in an educational matter of general public interest, and trust you will afford me such assistance as lies in your power.

I have been, as you are aware, engaged for the past four years in the training of young women and girls in domestic economy, numbering among my pupils many ladies of our most prominent families. The results of this instruction have so successfully covered the local field of cookery in the North-

VI PREFACE.

eastern States, that I am in receipt of many communications urging me to adapt some of my special methods to the Southern and Western portions of the country. In consequence of marked social changes attendant on the civil war, a radical alteration is taking place in this department. In doing this work, I desire to combine rudimentary economical principles with the culinary excellence of local dishes. In order to proceed intelligently, I must depend largely on the kindness of persons best informed in regard to the specialties of the local market supply, and of such dishes as hold popular favor.

In connection witli this subject I venture to apply to you. Will you please aid me in communicating with these persons, in order, (i) that I may consult them in regard to the desirableness of establishing cooking-schools, and (2) that I may ask them for information concerning the following points : —

1. Definite lists of the principal foods in local use, and their average market prices.

2. ,A.ccurate recipes for the preparation of such materials in popular dishes.

3. Recipes for favorite local dishes, and their names.

4. General information bearing on the subject.

I shall consider such information of the greatest value to me in the preparation of the work I propose to issue, not for the use of families onl)', but also for the guidance of instructors in cooking in different parts of the country.

With assurances of high esteem, I am

Respectfully yours,

JULIET CORSON, Superintendent New-York School of Cookery.

Office of the New-York School of Cookery, Union Square, New York, Aug 1878.

Upon the receipt of Miss Corson's letter, Gen. Eaton caused the following circular letter to be issued from the Bureau of Education, and generally circulated throughout the country; addressing it to the heads of educational institutions, and to all persons of local prominence who seemed likely to be able to supply the information called for by Miss Corson : —

Sir, — I beg to call your atcention to the enclosed copy of a letter received from Miss Juliet Corson, the superintendent of the New-York .School of Cookery. I hope you may be able to make some valuable suggestions for her on one or more topics of special importance to her work.

Miss Corson's ability, culture, wisdom in forming and executing her plans, her eminent qualifications in the theory and practice of cooking, and her success in organizing and conducting the school in New-York City and in preparing manuals ui)on the subject of cooking, give the best possible assurance

PREFACE. VI 1

tliat whatever information you can afford her upon points of her inquiry will be advantageously used.

Any suggestions you may make for her use can be sent to this office in the enclosed envelope, and will be forwarded to her.

Very respectfully yours,

JOHN EATON, Commissioner, Per C. W.

Department of the Interior, Bureau of Education, Washington, D.C, Aug. 31, 1878.

The material which came in response to this correspondence was abundant. The author has augmented it in the spring and fall lecture and lesson tours she has taken to many parts of the country during the intervening years ; she has also availed herself of recipes communicated to her by personal friends, and drawn from local and private collections. Like every person absorbed in the advancement of a special line of work, she has appropriated every hint offered her : the only personal credit to which she is entitled is for the scrupulous fidelity with which she has tested the methods given, and verified every statement which she makes. If the directions seem verbose, the fact must be remembered that the greater number of cookery-books fail to meet the demands of housewives, because they are indefinite ; and they are especially trying to those who have yet to gain the judgment and experience which too many writers on domestic subjects seem to take for granted. The author aims, above all, to be clear and precise ; to give such simple methods that a person of the most ordinary intelligence can follow them. She guarantees that the promised results will always be attained if the directions are closely adhered to ; the only latitude allowed is in the matter of seasoning, which is left more or less to the judgment of the cook, who must be guided by the taste of those for whom she caters. And in regard to the use of wine, in this last question, the author suggests that where the use of wine is not desirable, some dish should be chosen into the composition of which it does not enter; because, unless it is so definitely stated in the recipe, there is no flavoring or seasoning which can replace it without altering the character of the dish. There are many delicious dishes which require no wine, — so many, indeed, that the author has repeatedly offered to supply to any vm PREFACE.

temperance society which would publish it, a good Temperance Cookery-Book, the use of which would do much to advance the cause whose advocates urge her to espouse it, forgetting that, as a teacher of cookery, she is not at liberty to accept or reject any available edible substance because of personal preference or disapproval. Of the engravings, some are original ; the rest are copied from the works of the best European writers on cookery.

In conclusion, the author begs a cordial reception for this book in the name of the Forest City Housewife and her sister host of culinary experts whose best knowledge and perfected experience it embodies.

New York, 1886.

Chapter I. The Kitchen, Pantry, And Cellar

The Kitchen i

The Pantry 5

The Refrigerator 7

PAGE

The Cellar 9

The Care of Milk and Butter II

CHAPTER n.

MARKETING.

The Preparation of Meat for

Market 17

Good Points in Meats 20

Beef 22

Veal 25

Lamb 28

Mutton 30

Pork , 32

Poultry 34

Game-Birds 36

Game 36

Fish 37

Vegetables and Fruit 38

Dairy Products and Groceries .f 39

CHAPTER HI.

METHODS OF COOKING.

Roasting 40

Baking 42

Broiling 44

Frying 45

Boiling 46

Steaming 47

Braising 47

Blanching 48

Glazing and Gilding 48

Larding and Daubing 48

Barding 49

Boning , , 49

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

CARVING.

TAOE

M^hole Fish 52

Head and Shoulders of Fish. 53

Fish Larded and Batced ... 54

Half Large Boiled Fish .... 54

Whole Turbot Garnished. . . 55

Poultry ..... 56

Larded Fowl 57

To Carve Roast Turkey. ... 58

Turkey Partly Boned 59

How to Carve Ducks 59

How to Carve Roast Goose. 60

Game-Birds 61

Meats 62

Mutton Boned and Stuffed. 62

PAGE

Saddle of Mutton Larded.. . 63

Round of Beef 64

Sirloin of Beef 64

Ribs or Sirloin of Beef

Boned 65

Beef-Tongues Garnished. . . 66

Roast Ham 67

Cold Ham with Aspic Jelly. 67

Hand or Leg of Young Pork. 68

.Saddle of Venison 68

Larded Saddle of Venison. . 69

Larded Shoulder of Venison. 70

Barded Hare 70

Larded Hare 71

CHAPTER V.

THE DINING-ROOM .\.ND ITS FITTINGS.

A Very Simple Dining-

Room 74

Decorative Art the Reflex of

Nature 76

Sideboards and Tables 77

Decorations of China and

Plate 79

Chairs for the Dining-Room. 81

Windows and Draperies ... 81

Light in the Dining-Room.. 82

Dining-Room Floors 83

Sawdust Scrubbing 84

Dry Scrubbing with Sand. . 84 How to Prepare Floors for

Oiling and Staining 85

Oiling Hard-Wood Floors.. 85

Polishing Hard-Wood Floors 86

Staining Wooden Floors ... 86

Sizing Stained Floors 87

Varnishing Stained Floors. . 87

Black Varnish for Wood ... 87

Painted Floors 88

CHAPTER VL

THE DINNER-TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENT.S.

Tablecloths go I Silver and Cutlery. . .

Table-Napkins 92 , Ctiina and Glass

Washing Table-Linen 94]

95 99

CHAPTER Vn.

LAVING AND SERVING THE TABLE.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VIII.

FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, A^m WINES.

Flowers at Table no

Menus, or Rills of Fare . . . . 112

The Service of Dishes 116

The Ensrlish Dinner-Service. rig The Service of Dinner a la

Russe 121

The Dinner - Service as

Shown on Menu Cards. . . 122

Menu 123

English Bill of Fare for Dinner a la Russe 124

The American Dinner. . . . 125 Bill of Fare for American

Dinner 128

Dinner Wines 130

CHAPTER IX.

THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS.

CHAPTER X.

THE ETIQUETTE OF VARIOUS ENTERTAINMENTS.

Large Breakfasts 142

The Family Breakfast 144

Family Luncheon 146

Luncheon Parties 147

Afternoon Receptions 149

Afternoon Teas 150

Family Teas 152

Gentlemen's Suppers 152

Supper Parties. ... , 153

Evenino; Parties 154

Cinderella Parties 154

Card Parties 155

Calling During Entertainments 155

New Year's Receptions .... 155 Wedding Receptions and

Breakfasts 156

Countrj'-House Parties 158

Garden and Lawn Parties. . 160

Part II. Chapter I

SMALL SHELL-FISH.

Shell-Fish on the Half-Shell

{Hiittrcs) 163

Oysters on the Half Shell. . 163

Oysters in a Block of Ice. . . 164

Oysters in Ice 165

Cold Canned Oysters. 166

Little-Neck Clams on the

Half-Shell 166

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER II. SOUPS {Potage)

Soup Stock i68

Clear Soup or Consomme. . 170

The Clarifying of Fat 171

Caramel 171

Bouillon 171

Clear Soup %vith Royale

Paste. 172

Spring Soup with Vegetables 172

Case of V^egetable Cutters. . 173

Ox-Tail Soup 173

Mock Turtle Soup 174

Brown Turkey Soup 175

Chicken Soup 176

Puree Sieve 177

Chicken and Rice Soup, or

Potage a la Reine 177

Cream of Asparagus 17S

Onion Soup 178

Celery Soup 179

Cream of Fresh Mushrooms. 179

Cream of Cauliflowers .... iSo

Bain-Marie 181

Tomato Cream Soup 181

String- Bean Soup 182

Green-Pea Soup 182

PACE

Okra Soup with Crabs 183

Okra Soup with Beef 184

Dried Okra Soup 184

Ham and Pea Soup 185

Dried Bean Soup 185

Turtle Bean Soup 186

Oyster Cream Soup 187

Fried Crusts for Soup 187

Oyster Soup with Eggs 188

Soft Clam Soup with Tomatoes 188

Cream of Fluke ... i8g

Crayfish Soup or Bisque. . . . i8g

Bisque of Prawns 190

Lobster Soup . 191

Crab Soup 191

Terrapin Clear Soup 192

How to Kill Green Turtle. . 192

How to Boil Green Turtle. . 194

Green Turtle Soup-Stock. . . 194

Green Turtle Thick Soup. . 196

Egg-Balls for Soup 196

Forcemeat-Balls for Soup.. 196

Green Turtle Clear Soup. . . 197

CHAPTER III. FISH AND SHELL-FISH {PoissOll)

How to Thaw Frozen Fish. 199

Large Fish Boiled in Slices. 199 Boiled Turbot with Lobster

Lobster Sauce 200

Boiled Halibut 200

Fried Halibut 201

Fluke Boned and Baked.. . . 201

Bluefish Baked Whole 202

Slices of Fish Boiled 203

Shrimp or Prawn Sauce. . . . 204

White Sauce 204

Boiled Pike with Caper

Caper Sauce 205

Pike 205

Pickerel 205

Fried Blackfish 205

Larded Fish 206

Fried Cod and Haddock.. . . 206

Tron9on of Fish. 206

Boiled Bass 207

Hot Mustard Sauce 207

Bass 208

Boiled Sheep's-Head 208

Cream Sauce 208

Rcdsnapper 209

Whitefish 209

Darne of Salmon 209

Boiled Salmon 210

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Anchovy Sauce 210

Salmon 210

Fresh Mackerel Fried 210

Spanish Mackerel Broiled.. 211 Broiled Pompano, Cucumber Sauce 211

Cucumber Sauce 212

To Keep Shad Overnight.. . 212

Broiled Shad 212

Fried Shad 213

Shad-Roe 213

Eels 214

Fried Smelts on Skewers. . . 214

Broiled Smelts 215

Fried Butterfish 215

American White-Bait 216

Old Style of Frying White- Bait 216

Trout with Cream Gravy. . . 217

Fried Trout 217

Boiled Trout 217

New England Fish-Chowder 217

Clam-Chowder 218

Salt-Fish Dinner 219

Melted Butter 219

Salt-Fish Hash 220

Cod's Tongues with Egg

Boiled Salt Mackerel with

Butter 221

Clarified Butter 221

Dried Salmon 222

Salted Shad 222

PAGE

Diamond-Back Terrapin . . . 222

How to Boil Terrapin 223

How to Dress Terrapin. . . . 224 Brown Stew of Terrapin. .. 224 Stewed Terrapin with Cream 225

Green Turtle 225

Green Turtle Fried 226

To Prepare Frogs' Legs. . . . 226

Boiled Lobster 227

Scalloped Lobster 227

Scalloped Lobster in Shells. 228 Lobster Chops or Cutlets. . . 228 Scalloped Prawns or Shrimp 229

Soft-Shell Crabs Fried 229

Soft-Shell Crabs Broiled. . . . 230

Crabs Scalloped 230

Devilled Crabs 231

Kromeskeys of Crab 232

Mussels 233

Scallops Fried in Indian

Meal 234

Fried Soft Clams 234

Scalloped Clams 234

Clam Fritters 235

Oyster Patties 235

Fried Oysters 236

Roast Oysters 237

Stewed Oysters 238

Pickled Oysters 238

Vol-au-vent of Oysters 239

Ragout of Oysters for Vol-au-vent 240

CHAPTER IV. RELISHES {Hors-d'ccuvrcs)

Timbales, Patties. Bouchees, Rissoles and Cockscombs 242

Tongue Toast 243

Ham Toast 243

Caviare Toast 243

Smoked Fish for Relishes. . 244

Sandwich Butter 244

Sandwiches 245

Canapees 245

Bouchees 245

Rissoles

Spiced Veal

Veal Loaf

Jellied Chicken

Pickled Chicken

Peanuts Roasted with Salt.

Salted Almonds

Walnuts and Wine

Girard Boiled Chestnuts. . .

The Girard Nut Sandwich.

Welsh Rarebit

249 249 249

CONTENTS.

PACE I

Golden Ruck 250

Yorkshire Rarebit 250

Cheese Straws and Crusts. . 250

Cheese Puft's 251

Potted Cheese 252

Easter EpS^s. 252

Hard-Boiled Eggs . . , 253

Turkey, Geese, and Uuck

Eggs 253

Steamed Eggs 253

Broiled Eggs 253

Shirred Eggs 254

Poached Eggs with Ham.. . 254

Frizzled Beef and Eggs .... 255

Fried Eggs 255

Scrambled Eggs 255

Omelets 255

Sardine Omelet 256

Omelet with Mushrooms. . .. 256

Rice Omelet 257

Omelet with Jelly 257

FAGR

Pineapple Omelet 258

Tomato Catsup 258

Sealing- Wax for Pickle Jars 258

Cucumber Catsup 258

Oyster Catsup 259

Chili .Sauce 259

Chow-Chow 260

Pickled Cabbage 260

Pickled Tomatoes 260

Ripe Tonato Pickles 261

Sweet Pickle of Beets 261

Pickled Onions 262

Grated Cucumber Pickle.. .. 262

Spiced Gherkins 263

Pickled Martinoes . 264

Pickled Peaches 264

Peach Mangoes 265

Damson Sauce for Meats. . . 265

Cider Apple-Sauce 266

Quince and Apple Butter. . . 266

Pumpkin Sauce 266

CHAPTER V. SIDE-DISHES OF -ME.VT, POULTRY AND GAME {Elttr/i's)

Broiled Round of Beef 268

Porterhouse Steak Broiled . 268 Fried Beefsteak with Onion

Brown Onion Sauce 269

Beefsteak Smothered in

Onions 269

Cold Roast Beef Broiled. . . 270

Cold Roast Beef Fried 270

How to Clean Tripe 270

Rolls of Tripe, Creole Style 272 Beef-Kidney Broiled with

Bacon 273

Beef-Kidney .Stewed 273

Fried Liver and Bacon with

Spinach 273

Calf's Liver Rolls 274

Cutlets Cloute with Truffles. 275 Cutlets with TrufHes, Garnished 276

Veal Cutlet Breaded, with

Tomatoes 277

Veal Pot-Pie 277

Fricandeau of Veal, Larded. 278 Larded Fricandeaux, Garnished 280

Sweetbread Croquettes 281

Brain Croquettes 282

Broiled Sweetbreads 282

Fried .Sweetbreads 282

Sweetbreads in the Chafing-

Dish 283

Ragout of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms for Vol-au-

Vent 2S3

How to Boil Calf's Head

and Feet 283

Calf's Head like Turtle 284

Broiled Calf's Head 285

Calf's Brains 286

Fried Brains 286

Calf's Tongue and Brains. . 286 Lamb Cutlets with Finan-

ciere Ragout 287

Broiled Lamb Cutlets with Mint Sauce 287 cox TEX 7- S.

PAGE

Lamb Cutlets in Paper 288

Fruzled Mutton 289

Broiled Mutton Chops 289

Fried Mutton Chops 289

Paper Frills for the Bones of

Chops, etc 290

Pork Chops and Apples. . . . 291 Minced Fresh Pork. ....... 291

Fried Sour Apples 292

Jowl 292

Fried Salt Pork and Apples. 292 Corned - Beef Hash, New- England Style. ... 293

Frizzled Beef 293

Frizzled Ham 293

Fried Ham 294

Broiled Ham 294

Game Pie 294

Reed-Bird Pie 296

Stewed Snipe 296

Prairie Chickens Stewed

Whole 297

Boiled Partridge with Cream

Stewed Squirrels 297

Squirrel-Pie 298 lAGE

Fricassee of Rabbits 299

Venison in Chafing-Dish. . . 299

Forest City Sauce , 299

Frizzled Venison 299

Pastry for Meat and Game

Pies 300

Venison Pie 300

Venison Pasty 301

Broiled Spring Chicken with

Cauliflower ■ 302

Spring Chicken Fried in

Cream 303

Chicken Fried with Okra. . . 303

Boiled Rice 304

Chicken Fried with Salt Pork 304

Fricassee of Chicken. 305

Pullet with Toulouse Ragout 305

Chicken Quenelles 305

Chicken-Pie 306

Chicken Croquettes 307

Turkey-Hash 309

Stewed or Potted Pigeons. . 309

Squab-Pie 310

Foie-Gras with Truffles .... 310 Truffles 311