Modern cookery in all its branches: embracing a series of plain and simple instructions to private families and others, for the careful and judicious preparation of every variety of food as drawn from practical observation and experience

Front matter

IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

IN" ALL ITS BEANCHES:

EMBRACING A SERIES OF PLAIN AND SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS

Preface

In history we find frequent mention of those who have attained high position in the State, through no other virtue than superior attainments in the Art of Cookery. No title seemed too noble, or emoluments too vast, to mark the bestower's sense of the value of a favorite and successful cook. Laying aside his ladle, he has ruffled it with the noblest of the land. Royal dames have delighted to do him honor ; while in the conclave of statesmen, or in the cabinet of sovereigns, he has been alike the accepted. aud well-approved confidant and adviser. In these more modern days, although we do not go to such extreme lengths in rewarding the professors of the culinary art, yet are we by no means insensible to its importance, or backward in our appreciation of its results.

To be an able and successful cook should be the aim of every prudent housekeeper, for we know of no surer mark of sloth or negligence than an ill-served table. For if incapacity and indifference be allowed to exist in the kitchen, need we be surprised to find it in the parlor. Nor need we remind our fair readers how often an ill-cooked dish is the source, not only of bitter mortification, but of domestic discord and unhappiness. And is it not also equally true that many of the mental and physical derangements of both mind and body are frequently to be traced directly to the careless and imperfect preparation of our daily food.

A would-be frugal housekeeper, actuated by the best motives, and really striving to "make both ends meet," is perplexed at her want of success, and is anxiously looking abroad for causes that she would find much nearer home. And what else is the

/ ( xx

XX11 PREFACE.

reason but that, notwithstanding an expensive outlay in provisions, bad cooking spoils and renders uneatable a large proportion ; and that which should have graced her table, and delighted the palates of her household, becomes fit for naught else than food for pigs, and is therefore consigned to the already overgorged swill tub. In how many of our households is not this notoriously the case ? If thus the art of Cooking exercises so great an influence upon the health and happiness of the community, we are sure we need no longer dwell upon the importance, nor urge upon our readers the necessity of a closer study of this truly important branch of our domestic economy.

This volume is offered to the experienced housekeeper as well as to the young beginner, as a faithful and intelligent counsellor and guide, in whom they can place the fullest confidence, and whose directions they can unhesitatingly follow. Every recipe having been fully tested, is now presented to them as the result of actual individual experience. They will be found to be practical, clear and simple, readily understood and as easily followed. So precise are the directions on every page, that'no novice, however unsophisticated, need be misled. Appended to each recipe is a summary of the different ingredients which it contains, with the exact proportions of each and the precise time necessary to dress the whole : thus showing at a glance its various requirements.

The directions for boning poultry and game are entirely new, and also very exact ; while those pages devoted to explaining the somewhat rare accomplishment of carving, and how to set out a table, will, we trust, be found equally acceptable and instructive to our readers.

To our country-women, then, throughout the land we dedicate this work in the fullest assurance that, in many households, it will become a valued and honored servant, always ready when needed, ever willing to advise; and whose counsels when faithfully followed will tend to add to the gratifications of many an American home.

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER L

SOUPS.

Introductory Remarks Page 37

A few directions to the Cook 38

To thicken Soups 39

To frj bread to serve with Soup 40

Sippets a la Reine ib.

To make Nouilles, (an elegant substitute for Vermicelli) ib.

Vegetable Vermicelli for Soups ib.

Bouillon, or good Beef Broth, (French

receipt) 41

Clear, Pale, Gravy Soup, or Stock 42

Another receipt for Gravy Soup 43

Vermicelli Soup ; (Potage au Vermicelle) 44 Semoulina Soup; (Soup a la Semoule) . . ib.

Maccaroni Soup ib.

Potage aux Nouilies, (or Taillerine

Soup^ 45

Sago Soup ib.

Tapioca Soup ib.

Rice Soup ib.

White Rice Soup ib.

Rice Flour Soup 46

Stock for White Soups ib.

Mutton-Stock for Soups ib.

Common Carrot Soup 47

Common Turnip Soup ib.

A quickly made Turnip Soup ib.

Potato Soup Page 48

Apple Soup: (Soup a la Bourgnignon) ib.

Veal Soup ! b -

Westerfield White Soup ib.

Mock Turtle, or Calf 's- head Soup 49

Good Calf's head Soup (not expensive) 50 White Oyster Soup (or Oyster Soup a

la Reive) 51

Brown Rabbit Soup lb -

Pigeon Soup 52

Pheasant or Chicken Soup i»-

Partridge Soup 5 3

Mullagatawnv Soup ID «

To boil Rice for Mullagatawny Soup,

or Curries • «|4

Another receipt for boiling Rice 55

An excellent Green Peas Soup lb.

Green Peas Soup without meat ib.

A cheap Green Peas Soup 56

Rich Peas Soup 5 J

Common Peas Soup >b.

Peas Soup without meat 58

Ox-tail Soup lb

A cheap and good Stew Soup 59

Soup in haste }}*•

Veal or mutton Broth in.

Milk Soup with Vermicelli...- ib.

Chapter II. Fish

To choose Fish 60

To clean Fish 61

To keep Fish 62

To sweeten tainted Fish ib.

Brine for boiling Fish ib.

To render boiled Fish firm 63

To keep Fish hot for table ib.

To boil a Turbot ib.

Turbot a la Creme 64

To broil Salmon ib.

To bake Salmon. I ib.

Pickle Salmon 65

To boil Salmon ib.

Crimped Salmon ib.

Salmon a la St. Marcel 66

To boil Cod Fish ib.

Slices of Cod Fish fried 67

6tewed Cod ib.

Stewed Cod Fish in brown sauce 67

To boil Salt Fish 68

Salt Fish a la Maitre d'Hotel lb.

To boil Cods' Sounds ib.

To fry Cods' Sounds in batter ib.

To make Chowder >b.

To boil Rock-fish, Black-fish, and Sea-

bass ®9

To boil Halibut ib-

Fillets of Halibut, Black-fish, &c ib.

Baked Soles, Halibut and Carp 70

Soles or Carp stewed in cream ib.

To boil Sturgeon ib.

To roast Sturgeon «»•

To stew Sturgeon 71

To fry Sturgeon • >b.

To boil Whitings ; (French receipt). . . • ib

Baked Whitings a la Francaise • • • lb

XXIV

CONTENTS .

To boil Mackerel 71

To bake Mackerel 72

Fried Mackerel ; (common French receipt ib.

Fillets of Mackerel ; (fried or boiled) . . ib.

Boiled fillets of Mackerel 73

Mackerel broiled whole ; (an excellent receipt) ■ ib.

Mackerel stewed with Wine ; (very good) ib.

Fillets of Mackerel stewed in Wine ; (excellent) , 74

To boil Haddocks ib.

Baked Haddocks ih.

To boil plaice or flounders ib.

To fry plaice or flounders 75

To roast, bake, or broil Red Mullet ib.

To boil Grey Mullet ib.

To fry smelts and other small Fish ib.

To bake a Shad 76

To broil Shad ib.

Shad, Touraine fashion; (jllose a la

mode de Touraine) ib.

Stewed Trout; (a good common receipt) ib.

To fry Trout T)

To bake Pike, or Trout ; (common receipt) ib.

To boil Perch ib

To fry Perch or Tench 78

To fry Eels ib.

Boiled Eels ; (German receipt) ib.

Eels ; (Cornish receipt) ib.

To boil Lobsters 79

Lobster fricasseed, or au Bechamel) ib.

Buttered Crab, or Lobster ib.

To stew Lobsters 80

Lobster cold ib.

To cook Terrapins ib.

Oysters ib.

To stew Oysters 81

To scallop Oysters ib.

Scalloped Oysters a la Heine 82

Oyster Sausages ib.

To fry Oysters ib.

Oysters au Qratin ib.

Broiled Oysters 83

Anchovies fried in batter ib.

Chapter III. Gravies

To heighten the colour and the flavour

of Gravies 84

Shin of Beef Stock for Gravies 85

Rich pale Veal Gravy, or Consommee . . ib.

Rice deep-coloured Veal Gravy 86

Good Beef or Veal Gravy : (English

receipt) 87

A rich English brown Gravy ib.

Gravy for Venison ib.

Sweet Sauce, or Gravy for Venison 88

Espagnole (Spanish Sauce); a Gravy.. 88

Gravy in haste ib

Cheap Gravy for a Roast Fowl ib.

Another cheap Gravy for a Fowl 89

Q,uite common brown Gravy ib.

Gravy or Sauce for a Goose ib.

Orange Gravy, for Wild Fowl ib.

MeatJellies for Pies or Sauces 90

A cheaper meat Jelly ib.

Glaze ib.

Aspic, or clear Savoury Jelly 91

Chapter IV. Sauces

To thicken Sauces i b.

French Thickening, or Brown Roux . . . ib.

White Roux, or French Thickening. ... 93 Sauce Tournee, or pale thickened Gravy ib.

Bechamel ib.

Common Bechamel 94

Rich melted Butter ib.

Melted Butter ; (a good common receipt) ib.

French melted Butter 95

Norfolk Sauce, or rich melted butter

without Flour ib.

White melted Butter ib.

Burnt Butter ib.

Clarified Butter ib.

Very good Egg Sauce 96

Common Egg Sauce ib.

Egg Sauce for Calf's Head ib.

English White Sauce ib.

Very common White Sauce ib.

Dutch Sauce ib.

Fricassee Sauce

Bread Sauce

Bread Sa uce with Onion

Common Lobster Sauce

Good Lobster Sauce

Good Oyster Sauce

Common Oyster Sauce

Cream Sauce for Fish

Sharp Mai tre d'Hotel Sauce

French Maitre d'Hotel, or Steward's

Sauce

The Lady's Sauce, for Fish

Genevese Sauce, or Sauce Gencvoise • ■

Sauce Robert

Sauce Piquante

Excellent Horseradish Sauce ; (to serve

hot or cold with Roast Beef)

Hot Horseradish Sauce; (to serve with

boiled or stewed meat, or fish)

Christopher North's own Sauce for

many Meats

Contents

XXV

Poor Man's Sauce ; (served with Turkey Poults)

Salad Dressing

Chapter V. Store Sauces

Observations 115

Mushroom Catsup ib.

Double Mushroom Catsup 316

Compound or Cook's Catsup ib.

Walnut Catsup ib.

Another receipt for Walnut Catsup. . . 117

Lemon Pickle, or Catsup ib.

Pontac Catsup for Fish ib.

Boiled Tomatas, or Tomata Catsup . . . ib.

Epicurean Sauce 118

Tarragon Vinegar ib.

Green Mint Vinegar ib.

Cucumber Vinegar ib.

Celery Vinegar 1 19

Eschalot, or Garlic Vinegar 119

Eschalot Wine ib.

Horse-radish Vinegar ib.

Cayenne Vinegar ib.

Lemon Brandy for flavouring Sweet

Dishes 120

Store-flavouring for Puddings, &c ib.

Dried Mushrooms ib.

Mushroom Powder ib

Potato Flour; (Fecule de Pommes de

Terre) . 121

To make Flour of Rice ib.

Powder of Savoury Herbs ib.

The Doctor's Zest ib.

Chapter VI. Forcemeats

General remarks 122

Good common Forcemeat for Veal,

Turkeys, &c, No. 1 ib.

Another good common Forcemeat,

Superior Suet Foreemeat. No. 3 ib.

Common Suet Forcemeat, No. 4 ib.

Oyster Forcemeat, No. 5 124

Finer Oyster Forcemeat, No. 6 ib.

Mushroom Forcemeat, No. 7 ib.

Onion and Sage stuffing for Geese,

Ducks, &c, No. 8 125

Cook's Forcemeat for Geese or Ducks,

Forcemeat Balls for Mock Turtle Soups,

No. 10 ib.

Egg Balls. No. 11 126

Brain Cakes, No. 12 ib

Another receipt for Brain Cakes, No. 13 ib An excellent French Forcemeat, No. 14 127 French Forcemeat, called Quenelles,

No. 15 ib.

Forcemeat for raised and other cold

Panada ib

XXVI

CONTENTS .

Chapter VII. Oiling, Roasting, Etc

To boil Meat 129

Poelee 130

A Blanc jb.

Roasting 131

Steaming 133

Stewing jb.

Broiling 135

Frying 136

Baking 13

Braising 138

Larding 139

Boning 140

To blanch Meat or Vegetables ib.

Glazing ib.

Toasting 1 141

Browning with Salamander ib

Chapter VIII. Beef

To choose Beef 142

To roast Sirloin or Ribs of Beef 143

Roast Rump of Beef ib.

To roast part of a Round of Beef ib.

To roast a Fillet of Beef 144

Roast Beef Steak ib.

To broil Beef Steaks ib.

Beef Steaks a la Francaise 145

Beefsteaks a la Francaise; (another

receipt) , ib.

Stewed Beef Steak 146

Fried Beef Steak ib,

Beef Steak stewed in its own Gravy ib.

Beef or Mutton Cake ; (very good). ... ib.

German Stew 147

Welsh Stew ib.

A good English Stew ib.

To stew Shin of Beef 148

French Beef a la Mode ib.

Stewed Sirloin of Beef 149

To stew a Rump of Beef ib.

Beef Palates 150

Beef Palates; (Neapolitan mode) ib.

Stewed Ox tails 151

To salt and pickle Beef in various ways ib.

To salt and boil a Round of Beef ib.

Hamburgh Pickle for Beef, Hams, and

Tongues 152

Another Pickle for Tongues, Beef, and Hams 152

Dutch, or Hung Beef ib.

Collared Beef 153

Collared Beef ; (another receipt) ib.

A common receipt for Salting Beef ... ib.

Spiced Round of Beef; (very highly flavoured) ib.

Spiced Beef: (good and wholesome).. . 154

A miniature Round of Beef 155

Beef Roll ; (or Canellon de Basuf) ib.

Minced Collops au Naturel ib.

Savoury minced Collops 156

Scotch minced Collops ib.

Beef Tongues jb.

Beef Tongues; (a Suffolk receipt) 157

To dress Beef Tongues ib.

To roast a Beef Heart ib.

Beef Kidney ib.

An excellent hash of cold Beef ib.

A common hash of cold Beef or Mutton 158

Breslaw of Beef; (good) ib.

Norman Hash ib.

French receipt for hashed Bouilli 159

Baked minced Beef ib

To boil Marrow bones ib.

Baked Marrow-bones ib.

Clarified Marrow for keeping ib.

Chapter IX. Veal

To choose Veal

To take the hair from a Calf's Head with the skin on

Boiled Calf's Head

Calf's Head, the Warder's way; (an excellent receipt)

Prepared Calf's Head; the Cook's receipt)

Hashed Calf's Head

Cheap Hash of Calf's Head

To dress cold Calf's Head, or Veal, a laMaitre d'Hotel; (English receipt)

Calf's Head Brawn : (author's receipt)

To roast a Fillet of Veal

Boiled Fillet of Veal

Roast Loin of Veal

Boiled Loin of Veal

Stewed Loin of Veal • ....

lt.il ib. 165 ib. ib. ib. !

Boiled Breast of Veal 166

To roast a breast of Veal ib

To bone a Shoulder of Veal, Mutton,

or Lamb ib.

Stewed Shoulder of Veal ; (English

receipt) ib.

Roast Neck of Veal 167

Knuckle of Veal ere Ragout ib.

Boiled Knuckle of Veal ib.

Knuckle of Veal with Rice or Green

Peas 168

Bordyke Veal Cake ; (good) ib.

Fricandeau or Veal ; (Entrie) ib.

Spring stew of Veal 169

Norman Harrico ib.

Veal Cutlets 170

Veal Cutlets, or Collops, a la Francaise ib.

Scotch Collops 171

CONTENTS.

XXVJ1

Veal Outlets, London fashion ; {Entree) 171

Sweetbreads ; (simply dressed) ib.

Sweetbread Cutlets ib.

Stewed Calf's Feet ; (cheap and good). 172

Calf's Liver fried ib.

To roast Calf's Liver 173

Blanquette of Veal, or Lamb, with

Mushrooms ; (Entree) 173

Minced Veal 174

Minced Veal with Oysters ib.

Veal Sydney : (good) ib.

Fricasseed Veal 175