Tarry at home travels

Front matter

Edward Everktt Hale.

From a recent photograph by C. M. Bell, Washington.

BY

Preface

The papers which make up this book were printed in The Outlook with the same title. The first gives the plan and purpose wdiich was substantially held to through the series.

As we now collect them, we are able frequently to add in detail suggestions which have been made by courteous correspondents, — for whose kindness I thank them heartily.

It seemed desirable at the end of the series

of travel proper to include two papers on the

City of Washington, which had also been printed

in The Outlook.

EDWAED E. HALE.

Matun0ck, Rhode Island, July, 1906.

The New Washington ....

Index

.

Edward Everett IJale Frontispiece

From a recent photograph hy C. M. Bell, Washington.

PAGE

Eastport and Passamaquoddy Bay .... 5 From a print published in London in 1839.

Lord Ashburton (Alexander Baring) ... 9

From a mezzotint by Wagstaff, after the painting by Sir Thomas Lawrence.

Daniel Webster 12

From an engraving by H. Wright Smith, after the painting by J. Ames.

He was a prominent antislavery advocate, and a member of the Massachusetts legislature, but he is best known as the Republican governor of Massachusetts throughout the Civil War. He was one of the most active of the " war governors."

Outline Map of Maine 17

Mount Katahdin 20

Nathan Hale 22

A reproduction of an old engraving of the author's father.

Rev. Samuel Longfellow 27

From a photograph.

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow 29

From a characteristic engraving of Longfellow in early life, at the time when he was most closely associated with the state of Maine.

Judge Stephen Longfellow ..... 31

Father of Henry Wadsworth and Samuel Longfellow. From a painting.

X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

BovvDOiN College in its Early Days ... 35

From an old print.

TiiK Falls of Sault ox the Chaudieke . . .39 Characteristic scene on the route of tlie niarcli of Arnold's detachment in 1775. From "Arnold's Expedition to Quebec," by .John Codman, 'id, who followed, on foot or in canoes, for the greater part of the distance, the army's course through the Keunebec, Dead River, and Chaudiere regions, and visited Quebec and its environs.

James Bowdoix, 1752-1811 43

From a photograph of the painting by Gilbert Stuart, iu the Walker Art Building, Bowdoin College.

William DeWitt Hyde, D.D 46

President of Bowdoin College since 1885.

Pkofessoh Alpiieus Si'RixG Packahd, 1839- . . 49 From a photograph of the painting by F. P. Vinton, in the Walker Art Building, Bowdoin College.

General IIenhy Knox, 1750-1800 .... 51

From the painting by Charles Willson Peale, 17i)0, in the old State House, Philadelphia.

The Longfellow House ix Poi:tlaxd ... 55

United States Minister to France, 1869-1877. He was the only foreign representative who remained in Paris through both the siege and the coinmune. He had previously been member of Congress from Illinois, 1853-1809.

James G. Blaixe 61

From a photograph by Saroiiy.

Arnold's March through the Wilderxess . . 63 A curio\is old copperplate engraving, illustrating the difficulties which Arnold's expedition encountered. From one of the very early American histories.

Mount Washington, and the White Hills . . 65 From near Crawford's. Rei)roduced from an engraving made in 183(), about the time of Dr. Hale's first ascent.

The Dixville Notch 68

LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS xi

PAOE

On the Presidential Range 70

Characteristic view of the mountain summits of this range.

Eleazak Wheelock, 1711-1779 72

From a painting in tlie possession of Dartmouth College, of which he was the first president, 1770-1779.

Lord Dartmouth 75

From a painting in the possession of Dartmouth College.

John Paul Jones 79

From the original miniature in the United States Naval Institute, Annapolis, Maryland. This exceedingly interesting miniature, hy the Countess de Vendahl, confirms or is confirmed by the celebrated bust by Houdon, modelled in the same year, 1780. It was given by the noble painter to Jones, and from him inlierited by his niece. Miss Janette Taylor of Dumfries, Scotland, who, in 18.31, presented it to Lieutenant A. B. Pinkham, U.S.N., in acknowledgment of his generosity in rebuilding the cottage in which her uncle had been born. Lieutenant Pinkliam deposited it in the United States Naval Lyceum at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, and on the breaking up of the Lyceum it was transferred to Annapolis.

The Broad Arrow 81

"The broad-headed arrow was a mark assumed at the time of the Edwards (when it was considered the most powerful weapon of attack), as distinguishing the property of the king; and this mark has been continued down to the present day. Every article supplied to his Majesty's service from the arsenals and dockyards is thickly studded with this mark, and to be found in possession of any property so marked is a capital offence, as it designates that property to be the King's ovxn." — From "The King's Own," by Captain Marryat.

Dartmouth College 83

From an engraving printed in London in 1832.

Dr. William Jewett Tucker 8.5

President of Dartmouth College since 1893.

Phillips Academy, Exeter, New Hampshire . . 87 From a recent photograph.

Field-Marshal Conway 89

Henry Seymour Conway, 1721-1795, was an English soldier and Whig politician, the second son of the first Lord Conway,

LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS and cousin of Horace Walpole. He served with distinction in the British Army, and was a Member of Parliament, 1741- 17H4. It was lie who moved the repeal of the Stani]) Act in 177(i, and he was a vijjorous opponent of the policy of the British f;overnm(!nt towai'd the American colo7iies. This portrait is maile from a copijerplate engraving published in London in 17iW.

From the excellent portiait painted some time after the Revolution by John Trnnibull. This famous painter (175(>- 184.'?) served in the Revolution, attaining the rank of colonel and deputy ailjutant-general ; studied in London under AVest and on the Continent, and settled as a portrait i)ainter in New York in 1.S04. In addition to his portraits he painted many famous historic scenes, including' the four pictures in the Rotunda of the Capitol at Washington (" The Declaration of Independence," "The Surrender of Burgoyne," "The Surrender of Cornwallis," " The Resignation of Washington "). He was the son of Jonathan Trumbull, of Connecticut, (j.tK

The Grken IMountains .......

From a recent photograpli. A characteristic scene in one of the most picturesque, attractive, and enjoyable ijortions of New England.

Gknkhal Wolkk, 1727-1759

From his sixteenth year. James Wolfe was actively engaged in warfare, beginning with Dettingeu in 1743. He commanded a division under Andierst at the siege and capture of Louisl)urg in 1758. He died in his hour of victory at Quebec.

The AssAri/r on Qitehec

This "View of the Taking of Qnebeck by the English Forces commanded by (-ieneral Wolfe, Sept(Mnber 13th, 1759" is reproduced from a rare and valuable (copperplate engraving i)ublished in the Loudon Mitnuzlnc in 17(50. It is eminently characteristic of very old prints; for instance, .some of the scddiers in the attacking force are lu'arly as tall as the cliffs they are so valiantly scaling.

Ethan Allen

This engraving, by Hollyer, is from a spirited statue of the hero of Ticonderoga. The attitude represents the moment when he summoned the surprised garrison to surrender, "In

PA«iE

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xiii the name of the Great Jehovah and the Coutinental Congress ! " Vide the reference to Allen in the chapter on Connecticut. No portrait exists of the hero of Ticouderoga.

View of Burlington, Vermont 106

From a copperplate engraving of a drawing made about seventy years ago.

Samuel de Champlain 112

Defeat of thk Iroquois at Lake Champlain . .115

Of the numerous pictures portraying this historic incident, the present one has the special interest of being a facsimile of Champlain's engraving, in the l(jl3 edition of his "Voyages." Champlain himself occupies the centre of the picture.

Brigadier-General Simon Fraser .... 118 This portrait of General Fraser, 172!t-1777, who commanded the British forces at the battle of Hubbard ton, is from a print by James Waison " in the collection of C. R. Hildeburn."

Ruins of Fort Ticonderoga 120

The old print from which this picture is made shows the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga as they existed just before the middle of the last century. Hardly a trace of these ruins exists at the present day save a dim outline of the location of the main walls of the fort.

GENEiiAL Stark at the Battle of Bennington . 123 From an old engraving by J. R. Chapin of the painting by J. Godfrey, published in New York shortly before the Civil War.

Ma.ior-General Macomb 127

Alexander Macomb, who was born at Detroit in 1782, defeated the British under Frevost at Plattsburgh in 1814; he was commander-in-chief of the army, 1828-1841. The illustration is from an engraving by J. B. Longacre of the painting by T. Sully.

Captain Thomas McDonough 129

He defeated the British squadron under Dovvnie on Lake Champlain, September 11, 1814, and was appointed captain in that year. His signature reads " Macdonough," and the name was so spelled in contemporary books — vide legend under illustration on page lo(i; but the accepted spelling nowadays is " McDonough."

xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS pa«;e

George Peukixs Marsh, 1801-1882 . . . .132 He was member of Congress from Vermont, 18-12-1849; United States JNIinister to Turkey, 1849-18r);>; United States Minister to Italy, 18()1-1882. This picture is from the portrait by G. P. A. Healey, painted in 1845.

Mrs. Gkorge Perkins Marsh 134

Commodore ]\Iacdonough's Farmhouse . . . 136

This very curious old enij^ravinj?, from the Anahctic Mar/azine, published in Philadelphia in 1818, shows the modest farmhouse in which Captain Macdonough (Commodore by courtesy) lived on Cumberland Bay, Lake Champlain, while in the distance are shown the American forts, the town of Plattsburgh, the river Saranac, the British camp, and headquarters of Sir George Prevost. It is a typical example of the American engravings of that day.

The State House, Boston- 138

" What Dr. Holmes audaciously called the ' Hub of the Universe.'" From a drawing by Charles Wellington Furlong. Nowadays this dome is brilliantly illuminated at night with electric lights.

Pine-tree Shilling 139

These picturesque coins, the first made in the colonies, representetl an assertion of a measure of independence; they figure in many interesting incidents.

Henry AVriothesley, Third Earl of Southampton 140 This picture shows the famous Earl of Southampton as a young man of twenty-one; it is from the original picture at Welbeck Abbey. " A young man resplendently attired. His doublet is of white satin ; a broad collar, edged with lace, half covers a pointed gorget of red leather, embroidered with silver thread ; the white trunks and knee-breeches are laced with gold; the sword-belt, embroidered in red and gold, is decorated at intervals with white silk bows; the hilt of the rapier is overlaid with gold ; purple garters, embroidered iu silver thread, fasten the white stockings below the knee. Light body armour, richly damas(!ened, lies on the ground to the right of the figure ; and a white-i)lumed lielmet stands to the left on a table covered with a cloth of purple velvet embroidered in gohL Such gorgeous raiment suggests that its wearer bestowed much attention on his personal equipment. But the head is more interesting than the body. The eyes are blue, the cheeks pink, the complexion clear, and

PAGE the expression sedate ; rings are in tlie ears ; beard and ■moustaclie are at an incipient stage, and are of the same briglit auburn hue as the hair in a picture of Southampton's mother that is also at Welbeck. But, liowever scanty is the down on the youtli's cheek, the hair on liis liead is luxuriant. It is worn very long, and falls over and below the shoulder. The colour is now of walnut, but was originally of lighter tint." — From Sidney Lee's "A Life of William Shakespeare."

John Winthrop 143

Autograph, seal, and portrait attributed to Van Dyek, in Massachusetts State House.

QuiNCY Railway Pitcher 146

This bit of Staffordshire ware shows the first railway in America, sometimes called the "Experiment" railroad, built to carry stones to Bunker Hill Monument. All the first railcars were drawn by horses.

The Stourbridge Lion 147

This was the first locomotive in America (1829).

The Veazie Railroad, Bangor, Maine (1836) . . 148 This railroad "had two locomotives of Stevenson's make from England. They had no cabs when they arrived here, but rude ones were attached. They burned wood. The cars were also English ; a box resembling a stage-coach was placed on a rude platform. Each coach carried eight people. The passengers entered the side. The train ran about twelve miles in forty minutes. The rails, like those of other railroads at the time, were of strap-iron spiked down. These spikes soon rattled loose, so each engine carried a man with a sledge-hammer, who watched the track, and when he spied a spike sticking up he would reach down and drive it home. These 'snake heads,' as the rolled-up ends of the strap-iron were called, sometimes were forced up through the cars and did great damage. ' Snake heads ' were as common in railway travel as snags in the river in early steamboating." — From " Stage-coach and Tavern Days," by Alice Morse Earle.

Jonathan Edwards 1,50

From a recent photograph of the original painting of 1740, when Edwards was thirty-seven.

John Adams 151 xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

I'ACJE

The Battle of Lexington 15;}

From iiu old engraving. Probably the most truthful picture of this historic incident.

John Emot preaching to the Indians . . . 156 From the mural painting by Henry O. Walker, in the State House, Boston.

Ralph Waldo Emehson 158

From a portrait of about the time of Emerson's earlier essays.

Destkitction of Tea in Boston Hahijou . . . 160

From an engraving in one of the earliest American histories. The men who disguised themselves as Indians and threw the tea overboard were, it is said, fairly well-known to every oue except the British authorities.

Paul Kevehe 161

From the portrait by Gilbert Stuart, painted in 1807, when Revere was seventy-two.

Chkist Church, Salem Street, Boston . . . 165 From a drawing by Louis A. Holman, 1903.

He said to his friend, " If the British march By land or sea from the town to-night, Hang a lantern aloft in the belfry ar(!h Of the North (Hiurch tower as a signal light, — One, if Ijy land, and two, if by sea; And I on the oi)posite shore will be. Ready to ride and spread the alarm Through every Middlesex village and farm, For the countryfolk to be up and to arm." — From Longfellow's poem, " Paul Revere's Ride."

The Evacuation of Boston 167

From an engraving by F. T. Stuart of the drawing by L. HoUis. March 17th is still celebrated in Boston as Evacuation Day.

The Constitution 169

From the painting by Marshall Johnson. The most spirited of all the pictorial representations of this famous ship.

PAGE

The Gerrymander 172

After Governor Gerry and the Democrats had succeeded in electing a Democratic legislature in Massacliusetts, 1811, tliey so divided and rearranged certain counties as to provide Democratic majorities in Federal counties. The editor of the Boston Centinel, who had fought against the scheme, took a map of one county, and designated by particular coloring the towns thus selected and hung it on the wall of his editorial room. "One day Gilbert Stuart, the eminent painter, looked at the map, and said the towns which Russell had thus distinguished resembled some monstrous animal. He took a pencil and with a few touches represented a head, wings, claws, and tail. 'There,' said Stuart, 'that will do for a salamander.' Russell, who was busy with his pen, looked up at the hideous figure, and exclaimed, ' Salamander! Call it Gerry-mander.' The word was immediately adopted into the political vocabulary as a term of reproach for those who changed boundaries of districts for a partisan purpose." — From " Harper's Encyclopedia of United States History."

Harvard College in 1836 173

This illustration, from one of the best of all the engravings of Harvard College, shows the ijrocession in honor of the Second Centennial Celebration, and also several of the more famous buildings. Old Massachusetts Hall is just to the right of the centre of the picture, and Harvard Hall is to the left, with Holden Chapel farther to the left, and Hollis and Stoughton just behind it. Dr. Hale graduated at Harvard in 1839.

Henry W. Longeellow 177

This portrait of Longfellow shows the professor who first occupied the chair of Belles Lettres at Harvard, and who " was not only to teach us but to quicken us and inspire us and make us glad that we were admitted into the secrets of learning and literature. ... He changed the routine of his part of the college from the routine of the class-room to the courtesies and cordialities of a parlor."

Departure oe the Pilgrim Fathers from Delft Haven 179

From the painting by Charles W. Cope. The Pilgrim Fathers, who landed at Plymouth from the Muyfloioer, sailed from Southampton, where they had been joined by those who had left Delft Haven, Holland, in the Speedwell some weeks before.

xviii LIST OV ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Edward Winslow 181

TIic only nieinl)er of the oi'igiual band of Pilgrim Fathers upon whose likeness we can look to<lay. He negotiated a treaty with Massasoit in 1021 ; was three times Governor of Plynioutli Colony; made several trips to England in its behalf, and wrote several tracts about it.

Public Wokship at Plymouth by the Pilgrims . 182

The Wayside Inn, Sudbuky, Massachusetts . . 181

A present-day picture of this very old aTul famous inn, still used as a hostelry ; the scene of the supposed telling of Longfellow's " Tales of a Wayside luu."

Senator Hoar 182

The "Columbia "and the "Lady Washington" ox

the Pacific Coast 187

This scene, from one of Captain Robert Gray's voyages that made known the nature of our northern Pacific coast, is from the original drawing in possession of Mrs. A. S. Twombly, a granddaughter of Captain Gray.

Henry Laurens Dawes 190

Henry I). Thoueau 191

Charles Sumner 194

From a photograph hi possession of F. J. Garrison, Esq.

PitOFEssoR Asa (jRay 196

The eminent botanist. He was Professor of Natural History at Harvard from 1S42 to 1888.

Ochre Point, Newport 199

Chevalier di; Ciiastellux 202

"Destruction of the Schooner 'Gaspe' in the

Waters of Rhode Island, 1772" .... 2(1.}

This engraving, by Rogers, of the painting by J. McNevin, illustrates one of the picturesque incidents, i)receding the Revolution, in which the colonists began to assert their independence. Narratives survive that tell how a man went round the town at dusk beating a drum and inviting all who wished to join the expedition to meet at a certain house that evening ; how the men were divided among the hoats, each boat with its leader ; how they rowed with muffled oars to the schooner ; how they boarded her and made her crew prisoners; and how they burned her to the water's edge.

Samuel Sewall 205

Landing of Roger Williams 207

From an old steel engravijig.

Roger Williams 209

Statue by Franklin Simmons, at Providence, Rhode Island. No authentic portrait of Roger Williams exists.

Captain Esek Hopkins 211

"Commandant en Chef la Flotte Ame'ricaine." From a curious contemporary portrait of French origin. Porti-aits of several prominent fighters on the American side in the Revolution were reproduced in France.

George Fox 216

General Nathanael Greene 218

Gilbert Stuart 220

From the portrait by Neagle, in the Boston Museum.

Francis Wayland 225

At the age of sixty.

Fort Connanicut, R.I 227

From an old engraving.

Seal of Connecticut 228

Captain Wadswortii concealing the Charter of

From one of the early volumes of American history.

The Charter Oak 231

From an engraving of the painting by C. D. W. Brownell, in 1855. The tree was destroyed in the following year.

Oliver Ellsworth 232

Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States. From the original miniature by Trumbull, in the possession of Yale College.

Jonathan Trumbull 235

Governor of Connecticut, 1709-1783. Said to have been the original "Brother Jonathan," that having been Washington's familiar name for him.

XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOXS

PAGE

Capturk of Four Ticonderooa '2-M

Ethan Allen summoiiiiif; tlu' coimiiaiKltu' of the j^arrisoii tu surrender.

View of IIartfoud . . . . . . . . 2-]d

From an old engraving.

From an old engraving.

Yale College and State IIofse .... 243

From a steel engraving made early in the last century.

Lyman Beecher 246

John Piekpont ......... 248

From an engraving by H. S. Sadd, of the daguerreotype l)y Whipple.

Bash Bish Falls 249

This recent photograph shows the lower falls of Bash Bish, but not the cataract above it nor the upper falls. The falls are about 100 yards east of the Massachusetts-New York state line.

Destruction of the Pequots 250

" The savage for the first time knew who his master was when the trainbands stormed the palisa<les at Mystic."

Dr. Timothy Dwight 251

A "Lath" in Process of loading with Tobacco . 255 A scene typical of the rich tobacco fields in the Connecticut Valley. The tobacco is thus transferred to the barns, where it is stored in the same position, i.e. upside down, to dry.

Settlers of Connecticut 259

A reproduction of one of those^ queer and perhaps crude illustrations in the early volumes dealing with American history.

The Capitol at Hartford 260

The Death of Captain Ferrer 261

This picture, showing the slaves on the Amistad in the act of overcoming the crew, is from a contemporary engraving.

Roger Sherman Baldwin, 1703-186:5 .... 263 Governor of Connecticut, United States senator, and member of the " Peace Congress."

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS xxi

PAGE

Charles Goodyear 266

John Quincy Adams 267

From the painting by Edward D. Marchant, 1847, in the New York Historical Society.

Roger Sherman 269

General Israel Putnam 270

" Major-jjeneral of the Connecticut forces and Commander-in-chief at the Enjjagement on Buncker's Hill, near Boston, 17 June, 1775." From an engraving, published in London in 1775, of the painting by Wilkinson.

General Putnam's Feat at Horse Neck . . . 271 Of the many old engravings picturing the incident, this is probably the truest to life, as well as to the locality in which it took place.

Putnam's Wolf Den 272

As it looks at the present day.

John Howard Male's Glastonbury Orchards. . 273

The largest peach orchards north of West Virginia or east of the Mississippi. Annual yield, 40,000 to 50,000 bushels.

Map of Historical Places in New York State . 278

Landing of Hendrik Hudson 279

" View of the Great Cohoes Falls on the Mohawk

River" 282

Lake George 284

The Narrows, with Black Mountain and Bolton, and the Hummock in the foreground.

Albany 287

From an engraving of about the year 1840. The Capitol at Albany 290

Scene from the Battle of Saratoga . . . 291 General Arnold wounded in the attack on the Hessian redoubt.

Madam Riedesel 293

From a portrait in her " Memoirs."

xxu

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS

PAGE

General Buugoyne 294

From a copperplate engraving by J. Cliapnuin, published in 1801.

Amkuica 295

Buhgoynk's Ahmy ox tuk Road fkom Lake Champlain TO Four Edward 297

Illustrating how the retreating American force destroyed bridges and felled trees in the way of the advancing British army.

General (Grant's Cottage at ]\Iount McGregor . 298

" Ball.stox Springs " 299

From a scarce print, showing the town in its fashionable days (about 18:35).

View of Saratoga 300

From a large lithograph printed in 1848.

DeWitt Clinton 302

From the bust by Uurand.

Route of the Erie Canai 304

The Mohawk Valley 305

From "Picturesque America."

View of the Erie Canal at the Little Falls . 307 From an engraving published in Loudon in 1831.

The Erie Canal at Lockport 308

From an early engraving.

TlSAVELLING BY PaCKET BoAT, ErIE CaNAL . , 309

Dr. Eliphalet Nott 312

President of Union College, Schenectady, 1804-180(5.

Red Jacket, SA(iOYEWATnA, 1752-1830 . . . 313

From the painting by Robert W. Weir. When the Seneca chief sat to Weir for this painting, he went to the studio accompanied by his interpreter and a inimber of braves, all of whom showed unconinion interest in the progress of the work. The medal Red Jacket wears was given to him by Washington, and he was never without it, even when clothed oiilv in nature's irarb.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xxiii

PAGE

The Murder of Miss McCrea 316

She was killed near Fort Edward, New York, in July, 1777, and (it is said) by Indian allies of Burgoyne.

Schenectady, from the West 317

This engraving is of particular interest on account of the very curious old bridge which it shows.

Glens Falls 320

Salt Manufacture at Syracuse .... 322

Views illustrating various processes of a very old industry.

" Storming of Stoney Point " 324

Niagara Falls 329

Fanny Kemble 331

Chautauqua Lake and Point 334

Falls of Genesee River, at Rochester . . . 336

The old engraving from which this picture is taken shows the river before its banks were lined with factories, to take advantage of the water power.

Jacob Gould Schurman 338

President of Cornell since 1892. From a recent photograph.

The Mall, Central Park .339

Inauguration of Washington 341

Reproduced from a painting showing the following persons, from left to right: Livingston, St. Clair, Otis, Knox, Sherman, Washington, Steuben, and Adams. The inauguration took place on the balcony of a building then located at the corner of Wall and Nassau Streets, where the Sub-Treasury now stands.

CoNESTOGA Wagon 344

The vehicle in which was made the early emigration to the western parts of New York State and to what is now the Middle West. The forerunner of the prairie schooner.

Ezra Stiles 346

Emigration to the Western Country . . . 347

PAGE

President Washington :5oO

The present portrait, one of several painted by Stnart, is perhaps the best of all the pictures of Washington. It represents him about the year 1794.

Plan of the City of Washington .... 351 This plan, which has sinee, of course, been greatly extended, is, it would seem, L'Eiifant's plan as modified by Ellicott. The engraving from which this picture is taken was published in London in 17'J8.

Ma.jor Andrew Ellicott, 175i-182() .... 355 He served as an ofticer in the Revolution, and throughout most of his life tilled important positions under the Federal and State Governments. From ITSXi to 1801 he served as Commissioner in settling the southern boundary of the United States. Later, he taught mathematics and engineering at West Point.

View of the Potomac and the Site of Washington IN 1800 357

From an old engraving.

View of Potomac and the City of Washington . 359 This engraving, which gives the view from Geisborough, apparently dates from the first decade of the last century.

Charles Bulfinch 361

Monument at the Navy Yard, AVashington . . 363 Erected in 18()0, in commemoration of the sailors of the Revolution and the war with the Harl)ary Pirates.

Back View of the Capitol, Washington . . . 365 From an engraving of about 1810.

Mount Vernon ^^'^

The tomb of Washington. From an old steel engraving.

The Capitol at Washington '^68

View from the northeast. From a lithograph published in Wa.shington about 18;«).

The President's House, WAsinN<;TON. . . • 370

From an engraving of about the year 1832.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIO:?^S xxv

PAfJK

The Department of State 371

From an engraving, of French origin, dating from early in the last century.

Interior of the House of Representatives . . 372 From an engraving published in London in 1831.

View of Washington from the Capitol . . . 374 This old engi-aving shows a view of Washington in 1832, looking from the Capitol down Pennsylvania Avenue. The city probably looked very much like this about the time of Dr. Hale's first visit.

The President's House, from the Potomac . . 376

The engraving from which this picture is made was published in London in 1839.

Washington, from the White House . . . 379

This view, of about the year 1840, looks from the rear balcony of the White House along Pennsylvania Avenue toward the Capitol.

Mrs. Madison 381

From an engraving of one of the best paintings of Mrs. Madison, which shows her as she looked in the late thirties.

The Smithsonian Institute 382

From an old engraving.

The Capitol at Washington 384

About the middle of the last century.

The House of Representatives 386

About the middle of the last century.

The Navy Yard, Washington 388

The Grand Review at Washingto.v .... 389

General Sherman's army passing the head stand, in front *f the White House, May 24, 18(3"). From a contemporary lithograph.

Bird's-eye View of Washington .... 393

Shortly after the close of the Civil War.

Washington, from Arlington Heights . . . 396 This engraving, of the year 1872, shows the finished Capitol and the untinished Washington Monument.

xxvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Joseph G. Cannon 399

Speaker of the House of Representatives: and, incidentally, the most powerful man in Washington except, possibly, the President.

(THE FOLLOWING VIEW^S ARE FROM PRESENT-DAY WASHIN(iTON)

Connecticut Avenue 401

Present-day view of the Avenue off which the cows were pastured when Dr. Hale first went to Washington, as related in the previous chapter.

Upper Connecticut Avenue, and Cornek of Oak

Lawn 403

The Department of Agriculture .... 406

The State, War, and Navy Departments . . 409

The Patent Office . . . . . . .411

The White House 414

The Post-office Department 416

Chapter I Introductory

It seems to me curious that so few people write about travels in the United States. One in a thousand of the intelligent Americans who travel in Europe puts his observations in print. One in fifty of the people who cross Asia does the same; and every one who crosses Africa does. But of the travellers of America you might count on the fingers of two hands all who have written anything worth reading that has been printed in the last twenty years.