Around the United States by bicycle

Contents

a

Chapter »'*&«

/. The Start ^S

Chapter First. The Start

Darling and I several years ago conceived the idea to make a trip through every state and territory composing the glorious Union, and to make the journey either by train, on foot, on horse-back, or by bicycle. The idea at that time was very much in embryo form, but the more we thought of it, the more enthusiastic we became. We thought upon the matter a great deal, but could not see our way clear to take it up on account of business reasons. The plan several times almost died away, but something always happened which kindled the flame afresh.

Finally the kind hand of Providence intervened, and we received inside information through a certain source that a very large sum of money was being wagered between certain eastern sportsmen, that a trip by bicycle through every state in the Union could not be made by any individual in the time limit of one year and six months, the traveler to start penniless, neither to beg, work, borrow, nor steal, and to make all of his traveling expenses by the sale of photographs or some other little trinket of a like nature. The article to be sold

'1 was to be carried with him, that is, not to be shipped from town to town, and it was specified that the same article had to be sold all the way through the trip. It is needless to state that we gladly hailed this opportunity, thus offered us, to gratify and satisfy our desire to ^^see the country."

All our plans were made very much in secret, so that not a person knew of our proposed tour until every detail of the journey had been arranged. One week before the start our plans were made public through the press.

To such a fine point did we have our trip planned that we had a full and complete list of every city, town, and village to be reached, and even the blind sidings along our route; the population was also given, including the mileage distances between different points, so that we knew to the hour when we were due to arrive at designated points. The entire route was all computed by railroad distances, and in every case where it was possible our route followed a line of railroad. The object and advantage of this can readily be seen. If there should be no wagon roads, we then could easily follow the railroad; and should the weather be very wet and rainy, thereby making the wagon roads impassable, we could make fairly good progress by walking the track and trundling our wheels along beside us, a thing which, by the way, we did so much on the trip, that it almost became a second nature to us. The only cities which we were compelled to pass through were but one point in each state. These points are given in the preface, and also appear on the facsimile of the back of the souvenirs. At each point we were compelled to see the Mayor or some other city official and get two statements or affidavits to the fact that we had called upon him, and were making a tour of the several states and territories in the Union. Also it was necessary for us to get the post-mark of every post-office through which we passed. Besides this we had to prepare a report sheet of our riding and expenses, and an accurate account of the number of souvenirs sold. The red tape and minute detail this involved would have m.ade even a preacher use some very strong language.

The publication of our plans fell as a bomb-shell upon the community. Some said we were candidates for the Kalamazoo Insane Asylum even to consider such a foolhardy proposition; a great many thought that it was simply a little newspaper story, that possibly we might start, but that we should be back very shortly; and there were a few, yes, a very few, who really did think that it was a great trip for any young man to take, considering it from an educational standpoint, but even they thought that we should fail.

After everyone had recovered from this shock, suggestions began to pour in. How we should do this, and how that. Any individual who had had the advantage over his comrades, and had been able to travel to different parts of this Union, thought it his particular duty to inform us how we should do when we reached ''so and so". Mr. B., who had traveled through the Rockies, took us to one side, and with a very serious expression on his face gave us a lecture lasting about thirty minutes in which he indulged in many sorrowful shakes of his head accompanied by such a mournful look, that we were compelled to use our handkerchiefs to wipe the tears from our eyes, and it was with difficulty that we restrained ourselves from a complete collapse. The substance of this funereal talk was that we were going to have a very dangerous time in crossing the Rocky Mountains, that there were many, many wild and unexplored parts, and that it would be a very easy matter to get lost, and then someone years afterward would find our grinning skulls, or possibly we might be food for the wild beasts which infested those mountains, and then he stated that another very, very serious matter would be that the altitude was so great in the Rockies that we should not be able to go more than ten miles in a whole day, as it would be a physical impossibility to go any farther; he knew what he was talking about, as he had been there- Following are some of the contributions which acted as a sort of stimulating encouragement (?) to us to undertake the trip:

FAC-SIMII,E, FRONT AND BACK, OF SOUVENIR.

Mr. E.: ^*You just wait until you get down into Kentucky just after it has rained, if you don^t have a time, you'll wish you had never left your own sweet little home. ' '

Mr. L.: ^'When you get out in South Dakota, you want to be" awful careful about the water, as it is all alkali water, and it will kill you if you drink it. What you want to do is to have water shipped to you from Michigan, and then you will be all right. ' '

Mr. R.: ^*If you should happen to be out in the plains after it rains, you'll be up against it. The ground absorbs the water just like a sponge, and you'll have to lay up for a week before you will be able to go again. ' '

**You'll never get through the Southern States as there are no roads down there, and it's all marshy and swampy and there are trestles several miles long, and the fast trains come along every little while."

As to the different articles of wearing apparel, repairs for our wheels, etc., if we had taken everything which our friends recommended, it would have been necessary for us to be accompanied by a train of baggage wagons. With reference to medicines, bandages, etc., if we had complied with the desires of many we could have purchased the entire stock of any druggist, and transported it bodily with us, and even then there is no doubt that there would have been a great many articles lacking. But, notwithstanding all ttie obstacles with which we had to contend, Father Time moved along just the same, and there were only a few days more between us and the time of our departure, when SOMETHING happened. "We were supposed to start without a cent, and to have a thousand of our souvenirs on hand to carry with us. Everything in this direction was working nicely, we had received a telegram from the Bell Novelty Advertising Company, who make a general line of novelty advertising, and were located at Bellefontaine, Ohio, that the shipment would be ready for us so that we could receive them in time for the start. When we thought that everything was fine, like a thunderbolt from a clear sky, came a telegram which stated that there had been a jfire in the factory and that we should not be able to get our consignment, as it had been destroyed. It further stated that they would not be able to get another shipment ready for nearly two weeks. Some rapid wiring took place between us and the principals to the wager, and after exchanging several messages they agreed to advance us enough money to carry us to where we should receive our shipment of souvenirs, this money to be paid back to them from the sale of the souvenirs.

This was very discouraging, for if we had had our souvenirs at the start, we could have easily disposed of a large number to the people who gave us the parting ovation on the morning of our departure.

At last the eventful day dawned. The second day of May, a bright, crisp, and cold morning. It was an ideal day for the beginning of our long ride. Our machines which had arrived but a few days before, having been shipped directly from the factory, were of a standard make, heavy roadsters with a weight without our baggage of 28 pounds, but when loaded, nearly 75 pounds. The size of frame known as twenty-two inch; equipped with heavy tread clincher tires; one-eighth inch chain, without coasters or brakes; cushion frame and with gears of 84 2-3. We used upturned handlebars which permitted us almost an erect position in riding. We were both dressed in regulation bicycle suits and they were alike in every respect. We wore sweaters on which the scarlet circle surrounding a triangle, the insignia of the Y. M. C. A., stood forth in bold relief on the front like a headlight to an engine; this together with the purple and yellow of our sweaters, the bright orange of our bicycle stockings and whitish color of our elk-hide bicycle shoes, made such a dazzling display of color that a person on seeing us would instantly conclude that in some way or other, part of a rainbow had broken loose and was perambulating around the country. We carried with us a small type- writer with which we intended writing our reports, correspondence, etc. In the frames of our bicycles, we each had a canvas touring case which fitted very neatly in the frame and in which we carried additional wearing apparel and repair supplies for the wheels. This was everything that we took with us at the start, as we felt that we could purchase different articles as we needed them.

We rode down in front of the Otsego Hotel. It was then about 5:45 a. m. There was quite a group to see us off, but, owing to the early hour, many were unable to be there. After being photographed, and a general handshake, we mounted our bicycles and rode slowly off, the beginning of our thirteen thousand mile ride. We had crossed the Eubicon, the die was cast, and it was with very peculiar feelings that we left the city limits of Jackson behind us, and the thought came to us that possibly it might be the last time that we should ever see our native city.

Chapter Second. In Which We Get Held Up In Chicago

The first day out we covered forty miles, arriving at Battle Creek, Mich., about four in the afternoon. The roads were fairly good, and we got along nicely with nothing occurring beyond the common incidents of travel. The next day we did not have so much fun. In going out of Kalamazoo to a small place called Oshtemo, about eight miles distant, we got our first taste of what sandy roads are like. The country was very hilly and the sand on the road was eight to nine inches deep, loose and white, through which we walked and shoved our wheels with difficulty.

"We were now passing through the grape country of Southern Michigan, and on every side were \dneyards, while scattered at intervals were factories where the fruit was pressed and the juice made into a delicious drink known to the market as ^ ' grape juice ' '. We called upon the manager of one of these factories, and when he learned the nature of our occupation, he invited us to partake of a sample of their product, a thing which we were in no wise slow to do. When we left the factory, we had drunk so much that we felt as if we had almost been transformed into real grapes.

Twelve-thirty one day found us ten miles from La Porte, Indiana, without our yet having our noon-day repast. Heretofore we had always eaten at hotels and restaurants, but today we decided to attempt to buy our dinner at some farm-house; accordingly we stopped at the first house, and asked if it would be possible for us to buy our dinner. Some excuse to the effect that they had nothing cooked was the answer that we received, also the pleasant information that La Porte was only ten miles distant. At the next house we asked the same thing, and were told that they could do nothing for us, but that Mr. Brown, in the next house, would undoubtedly give us our dinner, as he made a practice of feeding travelers.

We went to Mr. Brown's and told him what his kind and obliging neighbors had told us concerning him. He was very indignant, said that he never did such a thing, and asked if we wished to buy our dinner, why we did not go on to La Porte instead of trying to buy it at a farm-house, in the city there were restaurants and hotels that made a business of feeding people, that he was not running any accommodation tavern for the benefit of the traveling community, and when he did he would hang out a sign to that effect in front of his house. After Mr. Brown had delivered himself of this rather spicy speech, we thanked him very much for all the advice with which he had favored us, and then we departed from the domain of the eminent and peppery Mr. Brown. For the next two miles we called at every farm-house, simply as an experiment, and in no case did we receive any encouragement whatever, and all seemed to think the same as the Hon. Mr. Brown.

We had wasted nearly an hour in these proceedings, and it was now nearly one-thirty, and we were still eight miles from La Porte. We reached that city a little past two o'clock, and enjoyed a dinner, the quantity of which was so great, that the proprietor, who was a German, exclaimed: '^Ach! Mein Gott in Himmel, vat eders you vas!''

From La Porte for a distance of nearly twelve miles toward Michigan City we traversed a fine macadamized road over which we spun in supreme enjoyment.

Michigan City is located upon the shore of Lake Michigan, and in the town itself and in the vicinity the soil is of a fine white and powdery sand. On the lake shore, there stands a huge mound or minature mountain of this sand, upon which not the slightest verdure of any description will grow This hill is dubbed: "The Hoosiers' Slide."

For nearly twenty miles out of Michigan City, owing to the heavy sand, it was necessary for us to walk the railroad track. In many places, however, the riding was fairly good. This fact caused a rather exciting episode. The Michigan Central Railroad at this point has a double track system upon which fast freight and passenger trains run at very frequent intervals. "We were riding between the rails on the right hand track, when, hearing a rumbling sound and divining that it was an approaching train we turned to discover that it was a fast freight. We were then about a mile from the road crossing, and thought that as the train was still at such a great distance, we could easily make the crossing by riding just a little faster. Accordingly we began to ''sprint". "We were within a quarter of a mile of the crossing when we looked around and saw that the train was rapidly gaining upon us, but we thought that we should be able to reach the crossmg before the train caught us. We reached the crossing and fell off our wheels and pulled them off the tracks just as the train rushed by with a hissing of steam and a thunderous roar.

As we proceeded, the surrounding country seemed to change from a sandy soil to a somewhat harder basis, and the roads, at least a great many of them, were built roads, made of crushed stone, and rolled until the surface was hard and smooth. It was with relief that we left the railroad track to travel again a first-class wagon road.

In due time we arrived at Hammond, Indiana, which is really a suburb of Chicago. After getting dinner here and making repairs on a punctured tire we proceeded toward that famous and much talked about metropolis, Chicago.

Even by fast riding, it took us nearly three lionrs to reach the heart of the main business section of the metropolis. We entered the city via Michigan avenue, one of the principal boulevards, on which the traffic is very great. Electric hansoms, cabs, automobiles, and motor vehicles of every description were dashing to and fro, a lively scene, a continuous stream of hurrying humanity. We had a great deal of difficulty wending our way through the jam of wagons, which together with the rush and roar of the elevated trains, the peculiar hum made by the cable, which lies a foot or more beneath the slot in the middle of the car tracks, made things very lively for us two wheelmen. Finally we reached the building of the Young Men's Christian Association, which is located on La Salle Street, a massive thirteen story structure. Leaving our wheels in front of the building, we went inside to make a few inquiries and on our return in less than five minutes, there was a crowd of several hundred people around the machines, who had been attracted out of curiosity. Upon our appearance, everyone commenced to talk at once, all desired to know where we were going, and where we came from, what we were making the trip for, and a few hundred other questions of a like nature. It very much resembled a modern tower of Babel.

Being strangers in the city, we had some difficulty in finding a suitable lodging-house, but after an hour or so of wandering, we at last found that for which we were looking. It occupied the entire second and third floors of a large brick building. The entire front half of the second floor was devoted to a combination reading, writing, and smoking room for the patrons. The air in this room was thick with tobacco smoke, amidst which perhaps one hundred or one hundred and fifty men, of a fairly respectable type, sat in supreme contentment.

Observing an old man hedged off from the outside world by a sort of chicken-coop affair, and who peered at all who had occasion to consult him through a square aperture, the width of which was about four inches, with a piercing glance which tended to make anyone feel as if they were before a judge to receive sentence, we inquired whether it would be possible for us to get a room, and a key was shoved through the ' ^ four by four, ' ' while the owner of the piercing eyes gave vent to a stentorian and gruff: ^' Fifty cents!''

Finding the number on a piano-box sort of room which corresponded to the number on our key, we unlocked the door to find a floor space of about eight feet square, in which was an iron bed, with no other article of furniture, not even a solitary chair to keep it company. Our room (?) was separated from the others by a wooden partition perhaps six feet high, and over the top of the room was stretched wire netting similar to that which is used on chicken coops.

It was almost an impossibility for ns to sleep, for men were walking to and fro at frequent intervals during the whole night. At last in desperation we arose and dressed to find that it was 3:45 a. m.

The day was just dawning, but it was a very dismal and disagreeable morning. The air was cold and damp, and a clammy fog held the atmos^ phere in its grasp. We decided that it was a golden opportunity to sight-see as the city had not yet awakened. Strolling down Madison avenue, we paused to look at the filthy Chicago River. There was several barges passing, which, together with the operation of a '' jack-knife draw-bridge," so completely engrossed our attention, that we paid not the slightest notice to the stray pedestrians who passed to and fro, until a rough hand was laid upon our shoulders and a gruff voice hoarsely growled in our ears: ''Come on, kids! Dig up all you got and, d — n it, dig up quick, too!" We were very much frightened, being taken so completely by surprise, and turned to look into the face of a man perhaps thirty-five years old, dressed in a suit which was many times too large for him and once upon a time would have been called black, but at present the color was questionable, the face was that of a regular genus ''hobo," decorated by a growth of stubby black whiskers which would have made a barber ^^cry like a child," the eyes were small and treacherous looking, while his breath smelled very similar to that which is wafted from a musty beer cellar. He wore a slouch hat pulled down over his shaggy eye-brows, but in the hands with which he still grasped our shoulders, he held no gun, which was a very fortunate thing for us. As it has been our custom to carry our guns in holsters which were fastened to our belts, we had them with us at all times. Upon hearing this very polite request, we turned and reached for our guns which were in the vicinity of our hip pockets, mumbling something to the effect that: ^^Well, guess we'll have to, as you certainly got the drop on us this time." By that time we had drawn our guns which we turned upon our astonished would be hold-up man, and advised him that unless he wished to give the undertaker a job he had better make himself scarce in that vicinity. He turned and was in such a great hurry that he even forgot to bid us good-bye.

One of the most notable features about Chicago, and one which is not seen in any of the other large cities of the United States, not even in New York, is the fact that all the people move very fast while walking, everything moves with that rush and bustle which is otherwise so characteristic of the ^^ Windy City."

Chapter Third. We Ford A River In Illinois

From Chicago we went to Joliet. This stretch of road was good, but five miles south of Joliet we began to get a taste of what Blinois roads are like in the spring time before they are worn down. The soil is a mixture of black muck and clay, and dries but very slowly, sticking to an object in the most affectionate way. Our first experience with this was coming from Joliet into Wilmington. When we reached the latter place, we were simply a sight. It had been necessary for us to carry our wheels for nearly four miles, no easy matter, as each wheel with its baggage weighed nearly sixty pounds. Our feet were heavily loaded with Illinois ^ * gumbo, ' ' and our physical exertion had been so great, that we were on the verge of collapse. So it was with joy that we sighted the little village of Wilmington.

Owing to the impassable condition of the wagon roads, we determined to follow the railroad track. It was necessary for us to do this nearly all the way to Springfield. In many places we were able to ride alongside the rails, but sometimes it was a case of walk.

Bloomington has the finest court-house in the state of Illinois, costing nearly a half million dollars. The inside is finished in marble, and is illuminated at night by hundreds of incandescent lights, which makes a very beautiful sight. The building is constructed on the dome plan, very similar to the plan of the majority of the state capitols throughout the United fc>tates. On our way beyoud Bloomington we had our first experience of ^'roughing it.'' We got our supper at a little village, at which they were no hotels nor restaurants, in a private house where we could get no accommodations for the night, and had to go on to the next town, something like twelve miles distant. It was a very dark night, the kind of night that is described in the vernacular as being darker ^'than a stack of black cats.'' Owing to this it was impossible to ride, so we walked the railroad track. It was a weird and lonely walk. On each side of the track for five or six miles was a continuous stretch of dense and impenetrable swamp and forest combined, from which such noises as the cry of a screech owl, which sounded very like the wail of a lost soul, were shrilly hurled upon the night air. Taking everything into consideration, we enjoyed (f) our evening stroll very much.

We at last reached the town of McLean, to find that although it was only ten- thirty p. m., there was not a person in the town awake, except the night operator at the station. We attempted to get some information from him as to whether there was a hotel in the place, and if so, whether it was open, but he evidently thought that we were tramps, even though we told him all our troubles, how we were traveling, and how we had got into such a predicament; but he would not deign even to give us an answer or acknowledge that he heard us. Finding that we could not get any satisfaction out of the operator, we decided to investigate the situation for ourselves. There were no street lights of any description in the town, nor was there even a light burning in any of the houses. After falling over a horse block and bruising my shins, while Darling attempted to find a side walk, in which endeavor he bumped into several trees and a telephone post, leaving a swelling on his forehead to remind him of the event, a representative of the canine race by a series of blood-curdling howls cast out upon the inky blackness, took a hand in the game. As we did not wish to part with any portion of our anatomy, nor did we desire to leave any of our wearing apparel in the jaws of Mr. Dog, we decided that in this case that retreat was the better part of valor, and lost no time in reaching our haven of refuge, the railroad station.

There was nothing for it but to sleep on the floor of the waiting-room in the depot. The air was very chilly, and during the night many trains passed through, so that we slept but little. We arose at four o'clock and walked the track to the next town, as the wagon road was too bad to travel.

The bridge at the point where we were to cross the Sangamon Eiver had recently been swept away by high water, and rather than return and go Tip to the next bridge above, which would have been nearly fifteen miles out of our way, we decided if possible to ford the stream. Eemoving our clothes, and tying them into a small bundle, we carried them above our heads and waded across. The water was about four and a half feet deep, coming almost to our shoulders. After we had got safely across with the clothes, we returned and carried our wheels over. The water was almost ice cold, the current was very swift, and as the river was nearly three hundred feet wide at this point, it was no very pleasant experience.

Throughout this section of Illinois we were having a great deal of trouble with our tires. In this vicinity a great many thorn hedges are used. At this time each year the farmers are accustomed to trim their hedges and throw the branches out into the public highway. They puncture a rubber bicycle tire very readily, so that we spent much time in repairing punctures.

At last we reached Springfield, the capital of the state of Illinois. The capitol building is a very fine structure, the top of the dome being four hundred and five feet from the ground.

OUTLINE MAP OF THE UNITED STATES, SHOWINCx ROUTE.

In Springfield is also located the old home of Abraham Lincoln. The house is open to visitors at all times and is in charge of a lady paid by the government as a care-taker of the premises, and to explain to tourists the historical interest attached to various articles of furniture. We had the pleasure of sitting in Daniel Webster's old arm chair, and to sit at the desk which was formerly used by Abraham Lincoln.

At this time the Eepublican state convention for the nomination of governor was being held in Springfield. As this brought nearly ten thousand strangers besides the delegates and their friends, into the city, the restaurant and hotel accommodations were somewhat strained. The situation had become so bad, that a large vacant store upon one of the principal streets had been converted into a lodging house. Hundreds of cots had been placed in this store, and a large flaming sign on the front of the window announced to the world that the privilege to occupy one of these cots for the night would cost ^^only one dollar.'' The crush was so great that by five o 'clock in the afternoon not one of those cots was left.