A cruise in a whale boat, by a party of fugitives: or Reminiscences and adventures during a year in the Pacific Ocean, and the interior of South America

Front matter

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Preface

Impelled by a boyish fancy, a few years ago I embarked on a voyage to the Pacific Ocean,- and while there met with many adventures, and visited nearly every port upon the western coast of South America, residing in some of them for several weeks at a time.

Recent circumstances have induced me to put my recollections of that period into the present form, trusting that they will be found more or less interesting to all classes of people, the man of refinement, the rough sailor, those desirous of information, or the lovers of the marvellous.

In conclusion : I hope that whatever errors may be noticed will be looked upon with a lenient eye, as the work has been hastily written, and under many disadvantages.

Chapter I

Good Reason for Deserting — Truth of the Narrative — Outward Bound Voyage — Repent Leaving Home — Touch at Fayal — Plans for Leaving there — Pride Prevents — An Irishman's Mode of Escaping^Cruising in the Pacific for Whales — Arrive at Tombez — Bright Anticipations — Disappointments — Liberty Ashore — Amusements — Plans for Deserting the Ship ■ 9

CHAPTER IL

Return Punctually Aboard — Sketches of Individuals herein Concerned — Their Compact — Preparations for an Escape — Honest Intentions — Parting Scenes — Get Safely Off- Tempestuous Night — Fine Morning and out of Sight of Land — Merry Breakfast — Future Plans — Organize and Commence our Voyage — Hot Weather — Land Ahead- Heave to for the Night 14

Chapter III

Tempestuous Weather — Exposed Quarters at Night — An Alarm — Perilous Situation — Narrow Escape — A Short Repose — Resume our Course — Puna — Island of Puna — Pull Around It — Another Night in the Boat — Varied Exposure — Scarcity of VVater — Forlorn Appearance — Approach the Land — Delightful Country — Hospitable Reception — Jolly Times — Country People, Manners, Customs, &c. — Rainy and Dry Seasons — Country Houses — Scarcity of Water — Filthy Pool 19

Chapter IV

The Party Arrested and Taken Inland — The Cheese — Disinterestedness — Boat Leaves the Village — Humble a Puppy — A Voyage by Night — Another Village — The Meeting — Jolly Times — Ridiculous Costume — Put to Sea Again — Uncertainties — Wanderings on the Coast — Fine Scenery — Alligators — Their Habits — Dangers — Fishing Population — A Bonky — Barter Trades — Balsas or Catamarans 27

Chapter V

Approach the River — Fright of a Bonky — Plenty of Fresh Water — Guard Boats — Summons — Ascend the River— Gloomy Scenes — A Light — Go Ashore — Mosquito Story — The City in Sight — Beautiful Sight — Holiday Crowds — Our Reception — ^True Statement — Bitter Disappointment — Arrested — Resistance — Its Results — Irons — Plan for Escape — Commence our Return to the Ship — Row in the Boat 33

CHAPTER VL

Saw off our Irons at Night — Dismay of the Guard — Beautiful Scenery — Stop at Puna — Plan for Liberty — The Attack — Free Again — Treatment of our Guard — Allen's Pitiful Story — His Duplicity — Generosity of the Men — Future Plans — Scarcity of Provisions — ^Pleasant Stopping Place — Singular Appearances — Absence of the Inhabitants. . 39

Chapter VII

No Women, etc.-:-Land Pirates — New Arrival — Fighting — Peril of Allen — Another Assault — Punish the Assailants — Depart — Pass the Night in the Boat — Land at El Morto — Sea Fowl — Quantities of Eggs — Preparations for a Delicious Meal — A Slight Disappointment — Tender Gull — Leave for Tombez — Allen's Treachery — Night Perils — Allen's Rascality and Departure — Land at Tombez 45

8 CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII. Pao£

Land at Tombez — Awful Disappointment — Flight— Wreck— Press of Sail— Great Speed — Reach Puna — Watch " on Deck " — Desertion of Clifford — His Baggage — Famished Condition — A SaU — Hospitality — Another Flight and Escape — A Night in the Boat- Consultation — Future Plans — Village of Puna — Oysters 50

Chapter IX

Enter Guayaquil River — English Barque— Repair the Boat— Hard Night's Work — Alligator Dangers — Pass the City Unperceived — Go into the Interior — Night in the Boat — Description of Scenery — Fruits — Monkeys — Pigs — Parrots, etc. — Decide to Return — Various Plans — Enter the City — Surprise — Put in Irons 5G

Chapter X

Description of the Navy of Ecuador — Provisional Allowance — Fleas, Cockroaches, &c. — Their Manners and Customs — Voracity — Anecdotes — Bug Tactics of a Man of War — Pilfering — Go to the City — Soldiers Barracks — Black Hole — Horrible Situation — Amusements — Removal to the Naval Steamer ; 61

CHAPTER XL

Description of the Steamer — Disturbance — Slow Work — A Chase at Night — Leisure Time — Bathing — Bad Health — Sufferings of Foreigners from Mosquitoes — Want of Sleep — Thunder Storms — Night Scenes — Good News — Set at Liberty — First Sensations — American Consul — His Liberality — Life Ashore — Description of Guayaquil — Manners and Customs of the People, etc Qf

CHAPTER XIL

Description of Guayaquil — Inhabitants — Complexion — No Prejudice — Trade — Wholesale and Retail — Handsome Stores — Mechanic Arts — National Incapacity — Stupid Preferences — Saw Mills — Immigration of Mechanics, &c.. Encouraged — Inducements — Enterpising Yankee — Roman Catholic Religion — Immorality of the Priests of that Spiritual Religion — Indolence and Improvidence — Two Meals a Day — The Siesta — Amusements — Refreshments — Wines, &c. — Bull Fight — Music — Dislike of Foreigners — Reason for It — Jackasses — ^Vehicles — My Own Experience 73

CHAPTER XHL

Longings for Home — Treachery — Whalers — Pacific Steam Navigation Company — Steam ships "Peru" and "Chili" — Anxiety — Disappointment — Try Again — Succeed — Boatswain — English Stokers — Hospitality — Build, Officers, Crew, &c., of the Steamer — Duties — "Dingy Work" — Steward — Go Ashore — Sailors' Generosity — Cogitations ' and Conclusions — Ship for Three Months — i\.tmospheric Phenomena — Extraordinary Exploit. 79

- CHAPTER XIV.

Description — Contrasts in Climate — In Sceaery — In Countries — In Natural Productions — ^^In People — In Price of Fruits — In Sailing to Windward — In Beef Cattle — Splendid Beef^ — Yankee Vegetables — Good Living — " Copper John" — Standing Joke — Hydropathy — Passengers — Ludicrous Stupidity — Content — Continued — Slaves — Anchor in Guayaquil — Jolly Times — Pine Apples — Gold and Silver — Animals — Monkey Shines — Aguadiente — Landing at Pisco 88

CHAPTER XV.

Singular Boats — Fishermen — Abundance of Fish — Numbers of Birds — Seals — Police Regulations and Customs, etc. — " Scrape," in Valparaiso — Old Tom — Arrested — Stock Transactions — Lambayeque — Northers — Stormy Scene — Perilous Adventures — Go Ashore — Talcahuana • . 95

CHAPTER XVI.

General Remarks — Theories, &c. — Natural Influences — First Settlers — Creoles — Differences in Bodily Strength — Disposition, &c. — Foreign Adventurers — Hospitality — Own Experience — Beach Combers — Singular Manners and Customs — Flogging — Tlie Commodore — Wine — Close. ..-..,.,,.. 102

A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT.

Chapter I

Good Reason for Deserting — Truth of the Narrative — Outward Bound Voyage — Repent Leaving Home — Touch at Fayal — Plans for Leaving there — Pride Prevents — An Irishman's Mode of Escaping — Cruising in the Pacific for Whales — Arrive at Tombez — Bright Anticipations — Disappointments — liberty Ashore — Amusements — Plans for Deserting the Ship.

It is generally well known that out of the crews of whaling vessels, few ever return in the ships on board of which they departed ; and for this result there are many and abundant reasons, which exculpate the sailor entirely from blame. Very many arise from the great difference between the freedom and enjoyment which are incidental, in a greater or less degree, to the life of every one in our happy land of Liberty, and the restraints, hardships, privations, and irksomeness of life at sea, where neither new faces, or scarcely land, is seen for many months at a time. This difference is felt in its fullest extent, by the crews of whalers, composed as they are, almost entirely of green-horns, seasoned with merely a sufficient number of old salts to teach them " the ropes ;" and it is but natural for their disgust at the generalities of a seafaring life, to be accompanied by a strong aversion to the officers and discipline of the ship aboard of which they are first experienced ; where, the discipline and hardships being itcw, and sometimes aggravated by home-sickness, they are most severely felt, thereby causing them to consider their ship and officers the worst of all others, and to seek relief by a change of scene.

Consider, too, the consequences of confining some twenty or thirty men, of all ages, nations, colors, characters, and dispositions, together, for months and years at a time, in a narrow space, engaged in one monotonous and inexpressibly irksome round of duties, varied only by an occasional period of excitement when whales are killed, again to relapse into weary lisllessness. Here is no room for seclusion ; likes and dislikes, friendships and enmities must be formed, and wo to the unhappy wretch whose peculiarities make him the scapegoat of such a set, or to those who may have excited %he hatred of officers who delight to tyrannise over and " haze " their victims. While at sea such persons may, with less elegance than truth, be compared to << cats in hell without any claws," and relief is seldom to be

10 - CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT.

obtained, but by escaping from the floating pandemonium to the shore, at the first opportunity.

This is the most common expedient, and strange as h may seem, it is not unfrequently the case, that the officers of a ship use every means in their power, by rendering fife intolerable, to induce such a course to be taken by the crew. The reason for this will readily be j^erceived, when it is considered that the men forfeit their share in the profits of .the voyage by desertion, and such a loss is somebody's gain.

But it is unnecessary to give any more of the many reasons which may exist for a man's pursuing such a course. Suffice it lo say, that sailors have from time immemorial made a practice of running away from their ship, when they feel disposed, and will probably continue to do so for some time to come. We merely wish to show that a person could, under certain circustances, gratify a disposition to travel and spare himself the pain of bidding farewell, without infringing upon honorable principles.

While spinning our present yarn we intend to confine ourselves prirvcipally to actual scenes and occurrences, in an expedition which was prompted by a desire to escape from tyrannical and unjust treatment. They were certainly not deficient in interest or excitement, and sometimes pleasure to the actors ; and in our narrative we shall endeavor, by faithfully representing them, to make them equally interesting, and, we charitably hope, much more agreeable, to those who may honor us with their attention. It may add to the interest of our tale, when we assert that we .shall represent nothing but what actually occurred, in its regular order, as faithfully as our memory will enable us to do, after a lapse of two or three years. Indeed an acquaintance with the writer would only confirm what will easily be perceived, that we are rarely embarrased by a too luxuriant imagination, and that we are exercising but little self-denial in confining ourselves to facts.

We shall waste but few words on our outward bound voyage and cruising in the Pacific after whales ; not that it was devoid of interest, but enough has been written on such subjects for the present generation. Neither will we make out a list of the grievances which gave rise to a fixed, we may almost say a desperate resolution to leave our ship : or describe the estimable characters who ranked as Captain and Mate. If they were parsimonious, tyrannical and brutal to the last degree, they were good christians at home, where their exemplary conduct and fervent piety were extremely edifying. This being a guaranty in our opinion of good treatment, we confess we were a little surprised when ordered to our regular employment on the first Sunday out, to hear the Captain jocularly remark, " no soundings no Sundays."

As for ourselves individually we had profoundly repented of a certain headstrong determination, which is common to youths of 18 or 19 years of age, during the six weeks previous to our touching at Fayal for a stock of vegetables, he, &c. Rendered almost desperate by home-sickness, we thought only of escaping from the horrible life which was intended to last for three years from the time of our departure, and had made suitable preparations for deserting at this place. In these we had been assisted by a coaple of Portuguese, who had relatives on shore, whom we recompensed by a gift of the effects, worth about a hundred and fifty dollars, which we were obliged to leave behind. . Therefore, just previous to the time when it was our turn to go on shore for a few hours, we arrayed ourselves in two or three shirts, as many -pairs of pants and stockings, our best hat, &c. &;c., not forgetting to put a spare biscuit and a potato or two in our pockets, to subsist upon in the rural excursion which we contemplated ; and after secretly exchanging adieu with all but the officers, we jumped lightly over the side and took our place in the boat for the .city, which was some two or three miles distant.

The prospect of freedom and a speedy return to our native land removed a mountainous load which had long oppressed our home-sick soul, and we again felt an elasticity of spirts as new as delightful. Bright visions of happiness once enjoyed, and familiar haunts rendered dear by absence, arose in our mind, and in imagination we rushed to embrace our friends whose worth we had never before rightly appreciated — warm greetings sprung to our lips which they returned with — with — what? Here commenced an entirely new train of thought ; we remembered that our determination had caused much sorrow and anguish, but that after a fruitless opposition our friends were obliged to content themselves by providing us with every thing we could possibly make use of. Now there was no question but that we were beloved, hut what would they say if we came home within a couple of months, after our headstrong determination to be absent for three years. Reflection upon this point caused a peculiar sinking sensation in the region of the stomach, and we straightway determined to return to the ship and not leave her until she had doubled Cape Horn ; by which time our experience would excite admiration rather than laughter. We therefore went on board again, much to the chagrin of our legatees, whom we found quarreling over the division of our effects ; we immediately constituted ourselves an umpire in the disputes, and discovered a talent for the legal profession by appropriating the property in question to ourselves as a compensation for our services.

Some two or three others endeavored to escape, but they were all retaken except one who had previously been considered *' the fool" — par eminence. He was of Irish descent and exhibited a national peculiarity in refusing to take any other kind of provisions with him excepting potatoes, of which, to the amazement of all present, he managed to stow away at least a peck about his person. His method of doing this was, to us at least, perfectly original. He pulled on a pair of woolen drawers which set close but were vesy elastic ; and into these he shoved as many boiled potatoes as the ample proportions of his go-ashore trowsers would allow — pulling them on, he filled his pockets, and lastly managed to stow a few small ones in his hat.

All rejoiced at the escape of the cockney whose early experience had evidently unfitted him for a sailor's life. He was made up of peculiarities which made him the butt of every one ; and could not be induced to relinquish the idea that it was highly dangerous to ascend the " footsteps " of the rigging in a dark night, without the aid of a lantern which he occasionally solicited from the officer of the deck.

JO A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT.

We doubled Cape Horn in October, and after touching at Juan Fernandez on our way to the torid zone, commenced our whaling operations. We engaged the more ardently in this business on account of our Captain's assurance that we should be liberally supplied with " liberty money " if we obtained a certain quantity of oil. We were fortunate, and obtained much more, before we shaped our course for the land, after a continued and irksome residence aboard the ship of eight long months, with the exception of a few hours at Fayal, And the delight which all experi-^ enced as the cry of " Land Ho," rang out long and loudly from the mastheads can scarcely be imagined much less described. It was like the opening of prison doors to the inhabitants of a dungeon. Soon we inhaled the breezes ladened with the fragrance of luxuriant tropical vegetation and, rapidly approaching the land, we were soon standing off and on before the town of Payti. We stopped merely long enough for the Captain to procure two additional hands, when we shaped our course for the port of Tombez, intending to stop there two or three weeks.

We arrived about sundown and were somewhat disappointed at our Captain's choice, which we learnt was determined by his desire to prevent any one from attempting to escape ; he had therefore selected the spot which of all others was least inviting — principally on account of the paucity of people, who did not number more than fifteen or twenty, beside children, dogs and fleas, which were very abundant. The town itself was situated inland some 8 or 10 miles from the mouth of the river, of the same name, and the dozen buildings we saw, were principally used for commercial purposes, receiving and storing goods. They were built upon the bank of the river just inside the bar, and on all other sides surrounded by almost impenetrable woods. There was not much variety therefore in the scenery, but it was a pleasing contrast to the situation we had endured for some time past. Our enjoyments however were somewhat qualified by the clouds of musquitoes which filled the air at all times. We never had any idea of such a voracious and blood-thirsty class of animals ; nothing in the shape of clothing, however thick, was any protection ; the attempts to protect our persons by wearing thick woolen garments, in spite of the heat, were utterly useless. We shall have occasion perhaps to allude to this annoyance again, but when we do not do so the reader may imagine us constantly employing one hand at least in slapping our faces and bodies whenever we were within five miles of the land.

After working for a day or two between ship and shore, the starboard watch were told to prepare themselves for three days of liberty. Meanwhile we had been pleasing ourselves with expectations of jolly times in the city, where we understood that fruits were very delicious, abundant and cheap, to say nothing of aguadiente. Imagine our dismay therefore when we received orders not to go more than half a mile from shore, and were told that we could not have a dollar to spend, while at the same time the Captain would make no other provision for us than to pay for two meals a day in a miserable pulperia. Such barbarity, after a tedious cruise of eight months, with another equally long and delightful one in prospect was not particulariy pleasing, and only tended to confirm sundry resolutions to escape at all hazard.

We were not to be entirely baulked, however, and taking a large quantity of our clothes ashore, we were enabled to purchase a few gallons of New England, and secure a Spanish fiddler. Bullocks' hides were then spread upon the elastic floor of our boarding house, and in company with the crew of another ship, between dancing, drinking, and singing we spent day and night in most uproarious mirth, varying the exercises occasionally by riding donkeys and chasing alligators, which were abundant enough. It sometimes happened though that they turned the tables upon their pursuers and made us exercise no little ingenuity and motive power to effect an escape.

But none of us, meanwhile, had forgotten our resolutions to escape ; and it was while cogitating upon the idea of a solitary expedition, that We were made acquainted with a plan which had long been resolved upon by some of the choicest spirits on board ; it was to leave in a boat at night, with sufficient stores to last until some port could be gained, where there might be opportunities to depart under more favorable circumstances. But after arriving at Tombez, two had changed their minds for certain reasons, and we were invited, as a special proof of friendship, to fill one of the vacancies, with the explanation that we should have been originally included in the number, but it was feared that our health, which was delicate, would disable us from enduring the unavoidable exposure and fatigue of the trip. Any thing, however, was preferable to a longer stay aboard the ship, and we gladly accepted the generous invitation. The plan then determined upon, was to punctually return aboard the ship when our leave of absence had expired, and depart in a night or two after, which was the 18th of February, 184 — .

CHAPTER IL

Return Punctually Aboard — Sketches of Individuals herein Concerned — Their Compact — Preparations for an Escape — Honest Intentions — Parting Scenes — Get Safely Off — Tempestuous Night — Fine Morning and out of Sight of Land — Meny Breakfast — Future Plans — Organize and Commence our Voyage — Hot Weather — Laud Ahead — Heave too for the Night.

Upon our return to the ship, the Captain could not conceal his joy at the success of his plans for preventing our desertion ; but we said nothing and secretly got our things ready for a start. It may be well now, before proceeding farther, to give a brief sketch of the individuals whose wanderings and adventures we are about to relate, premising that we shall of course substitute fictitious names for real ones. Two of the party were petty officers, or boatsteerers, who live aft and exercise a limited authority over the crew. We shall designate them as Sherman and Albert. Out of the four boatsteerers on board, they were the most active, daring, and resolute — and although neither were over twenty-two years of age, their exploits and prowess in capturing and killing whales were unsurpassed, and commanded the admiration of all hands. Brave, and generous to a fault, they were beau-ideals of a true blue sailor — differing mostly in this, that Sherman was cool and persevering, while Albert was very excitable and prone to fickleness. The remainder of the party, with one exception, had shipped as green hands. Porter was a Vermonter, about seven feet in length, and had been both a teamster and apprentice to a blacksmith — perfectly cool and unflinching, with an iron frame, he was a man of few words, and invariably replied to any prudent doubts, " we can do any thing we set out to do." Lawrence was the son of a country printer, in the State of New-York — not remarkably bright, but of a good disposition, and a clever fellow. Clifford was one of the men who liad shipped in Payti, whom we took the more readily, because he pretended to know something about the coast. He had evidently, as he told us, received a collegiate education, but he was the hardest kind of a customer ; reckless and unprincipled, he boasted of having more than once vanquished his antagonist in deadly combat, and had participated a great deal in the unhappy wars which have so long distracted the naturally rich and beautiful provinces of South America. Indeed, at the time of his coming aboard, he wore bandages both on an arm and leg, which had been pierced by bayonets, but were then nearly healed. Fear he seemed utterly unconscious of, and we have seen him when crossing the bar, where the sharks were numerous and voracious, throw himself from the boat into the breakers, and wantonly plunging his knive into one of the monsters, regain the boat in safety. Still he was not, when sober, an unpleasant companion, as he combined a frank and cordial address with a reckless generosity, which prompted him to make any sacrifice for another, and refrain from imposing upon any one weaker than himself. Add to this your humble servant, the writer of these pages, who prefers to remain incog, and the list is complete.

Our ages ranged from nineteen to twenty-three, and with all the enthusiasm of youth, and the excitement with which the nature of the expedition inspired us, we vowed to stand by and support each other in all the scenes we might pass through. In truth, had we been brothers, there could not have been more unanimity or good feeling manifested from the time we united until we finally separated for different parts of the world. The remembrance of it, contrasting as it does with our later experience in more refined society, throws a charm over that period of our life which prevents our regretting the privations and dangers which called forth such pure and noble feelings, and we do not think of them with less satisfaction because they were accompanied by honest roughness instead of insincere refinement.

As we had no wish to profit by our escape other than to gain our liberty, we first of all determined to take the least valuable of the boats belonging^ to the ship, and nothing beside our own property but what was absolutely n-ecessary for the voyage, which we erroneously thought would be of only^ three or four days' duration. We thereby could not, by any possibility, be morally guilty of theft, as our collective shares of oil were more than three times as valuable as the articles we took from the ship ; the boat was very" old and leaky, having already seen about five years' service in former voyages, which fact proved our honesty, as we could as easily have taken any^ one of the three other boats, which were entirely new. j

The night we had determined on at last arrived, it was dark and threatening, but as yet no rain. The rainy season was just commencing, and we had previously been made aware of the fact by frequent and heavy showers which came and departed with singular suddenness. The officers while in port slept all night below, leaving the deck in charge of the boatsteerers, who took turns in standing watch for three hours at a time. Sherman and Albert had the watches from twelve until six o'clock in the morning, during which time we intended to leave, and as soon after midnight a^ possible. At nigbifall we turned into our berths to avoid suspicion. We slept but little ; and soon after the watch was changed at midnight we silently ascended to the deck. Soma half-a-dozen were lying abosit who had. jeeft the forecastle on account of the heat, but tliey were all sleepin'^* soundly; and we immediately commenced furnishing the boiit witli sail,; oars, water, provisions, and our clothing, as rapidly and silently as possible. And our nerves, meanwhile, were not any more tranquil Irora the fact t))3t it was possible that some one of the officers might come on deck at any moment during the hour that we were getting off. The most difficult part of, the business was the filling of a blanket with bread from a cask that was , situated about a foot from the head of the berth where the captain wa^ sleeping. Fortune favored us, however, and we were undisturbed : the last thing put into the boat was a large cheese, which it will be seen proved of great use. We then, in order to secure an uninterrupted departure, securely fastened the doors leading into the cabins where the officers were sleeping, by winding large ropes about the companion way. Just then the wind began to blow harder in fitful blasts, while the blackness of the sky and the large and heavy drops of rain which commenced falling, betokened the rapid approach of a heavy thunder storm.

We could not wait for it to pass by, however, but hastily and cautious-- ly stepping over our sleeping shipmates, four of us took our places in the, boat which was hanging by the ship's side. Then the other two, after wetting the puUies and ropes to prevent their making any noise, gently lowered away, and sliding down to the boat after she had reached the water, we pushed off from the ship.