Johnson's journey around the world. Fifty thousand miles of travel, from the Golden Gate to the Golden Gate ...

Front matter

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

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Preface

During thirty years' residence in California, I have led a busy life, enduring much hard toil and the many privations incident to life in the gold mines in early days. I have pursued many different avocations: mind and body have been in constant motion. After such an exciting career I resolved to take a rest, and have a change of scene ; to travel abroad, and visit all of the principal places of note ; to traverse the ocean, and to feast my eyes and mind upon the wonders of the Old World. For the last twenty years I have had an increasing desire to take a spin around the ball. I felt it to be the greatest gift and treat that 1 could bestow upon myself, and finally determined to put my ambitious desire into execution. So I hastily prepared to go, and made arrangements to remain as long as I should find enjoyment among an unknown people in unknown lands. Now, what I rely on to make this simple narrative interesting is not the talent or literary training that I have had, but my ability to present,, in an original manner, the information obtained, not only from guides and interpreters, but from my own observation.

4 Preface.

During my travels I kept a daily record of events and incidents connected with my tour around the world. And in writing an account of this extended tour, brief mention will be made of my adventures on this continent, across which I have made twelve different trips during the last thirty years; I shall state the years the journeys were made in, the different routes traveled, the distance, and the principal points of interest on each one. As this narrative is to be filled up with mixed material, and possibly presented in a somewhat rambling manner, the writer asks the indulgence of the reader, as he makes this his first venture in the new and untried field of literature, remembering always that a wide difference frequently exists between the farmer and the educated traveler, the plowshare and the pen.

Osmun Johnson.

Modesto, Cal., August 5, 1887.

Contents

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CHAPT. I.— The United States . . 9

San Francisco — The Columbia — Yellowstone Park — Dakota — Minneapolis to New York City — Funeral of General Grant — Other Journeys over the Western Continent — Sierras — The Mormons—The Missouri — Indian Attack — Big Trees and Yosemite — Los Angeles— Steamboat Racing on the Mississippi — Niagara— The St. Lawrence — Walker Expedition against Nicaragua.

Chapter I. The United States

Before starting on such a long and perilous journey, it became a matter of great importance to select to advantage the best routes of travel o'er land and sea ; to visit the frigid regions in Europe during the warmest season of the year, so as to avoid the oppressive cold ; to travel in the tropical climes of Asia and Africa during that portion of the year when the terrific heat of the sun's rays would be the least oppressive, and to avoid the dangerous monsoons and typhoons that prevail at certain seasons of the year. Many travelers had gone before me, and many had never returned, and, keeping this fact in view, I endeavored to so shape my journey as to avoid all of the dangers incident to such a trip. I had traveled over the various routes on this continent before starting on this tour, except by way of the Northern Pacific Railway; and, as this route traversed a country which I had never seen, I decided to take it, and thus avail myself of an opportunity to view the grand and picturesque scenery on the Columbia River, the Cascade Mountains in Oregon, the Yellowstone, the great National Park, the Geysers, etc. So I left instructions in regard to my business affairs, and started out on my rambles, promising myself to take in all that was worth seeing in Europe and the Orient.

Before beginning to give a description of the varied scenes I witnessed in my travels, the panorama of faces, skies, cities, mountain, valley and desert, I am going to give a brief description of my home in the once far-off West. I started from Modesto, a thriving,, enterprising little city situated in the San Joaquin Valley, the great wheat region of California. This beautiful little place of between three and four thousand inhabitants is exceedingly well located in the centre of a grain-growing country. It is the county seat of Stanislaus County, — has many fine and substantial buildings, both business and private; has the advantages of a healthful climate, and nearness to all the large commercial centres of the State ; has splendid schools and many churches. So, after bidding adieu to my many friends at this place, I boarded the train, and was soon speeding away over the plains. The chief attraction on this line was the wheat fields dotted with bags filled with grain awaiting transportation, — for we of this valley can raise grain enough to feed the hungry at home and abroad and have an abundance to spare. Every, where could be seen the indications of a bounti-

Port Costa — Oakland. 1 1

ful harvest, the reward which always rejoices the heart of the tiller of the soil.

The first point of interest on this route is Port Costa, on San Francisco Bay. It is one of the greatest wheat depots in the State, and has an immense warehouse capacity. Here the farmer of a speculating turn of mind stores his wheat, and takes chances on the rise and fall of the market. The Star Mills, the largest flouring mills in California, are located near here, and some of the largest ocean vessels afloat can always be seen at the wharves loading the precious cargo. At Port Costa there is also a railway ferry boat of enormous size which is used in transporting overland passenger trains across the straits to the Benicia side.

From here I journeyed on to Oakland, the city of churches, seminaries, and colleges of learning, and, so far as piety and good morals are concerned, considered the model city in the State, not excepting San Jose. Oakland is noted for its elegant private residences, its parks and gardens, its profusion of majestic live oaks, and the picturesque beauty and variety of scenery by which it is surrounded. Many of the wealthy citizens of San Francisco and a large number of retired farmers have their homes here, where they and their families can enjoy the many educational and other advantages of this quiet city.

Five miles from Oakland, on the opposite side of

San Francisco Bay, I found myself in the bustling city of San Francisco. This city is famous for its magnificent harbor and its exports of gold and wheat, — it is the largest city of the Pacific coast, and is the fourth city of the United States in foreign commerce ; it has a population of 350,000. San Francisco is lined with costly edifices, from Golden Gate Park to the home of the lucky millionaire on Nob Hill. A few of the many attractions this city contains are Golden Gate Park, the Cliff House, the Presidio; Telegraph Hill, from which you obtain a fine view of the bay, Oakland, Saucelito, and, in fact, of all the surrounding country; Woodward's Gardens, Sutro Heights, the Panorama, Theatres, Operas and Museums. It has a goodly number of fine hotels, the most extensive of which is the Palace. This hotel was erected at a cost of four millions of dollars, and is the largest caravansary in the world. In my estimation, the Southern in St. Louis, the Palmer House in Chicago, or the Windsor in New York are inferior in comparison with the Palace. The city contains many magnificent cathedrals and imposing structures, and possesses every facility and advantage to enable it to maintain its position as the metropolis of the Pacific coast.

On the 25th day of July, 1885, I embarked on the coast steamer State of California for Portland, Oregon, — a distance of 800 miles from

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San Francisco. As we moved out from the dock, we waved a last adieu with our hats and handkerchiefs to the friends we left behind us. This last parting will long be remembered. Soon the faces of those we loved were left in the dim distance; and, as we sailed out of the Golden Gate into the broad Pacific, I felt this to be the practical beginning of a long and perilous journey, and it led to queries in my own mind as to whether I should ever return to my home in sunny California, or whether I should meet the fate of many an adventurous traveler who has found a last resting place in some distant clime or been consigned to the tender mercies of the restless deep. This portion of the Pacific was not pacific, a fact soon determined by many of the passengers, who were decidedly sea-sick. At sea this most disagreeable of sickness is called " feeding the fishes." The swell of the sea and the roll of the vessel soon proved too much for a landsman like myself, and I joined the number of sea-sick passengers. But in my case the sea-sickness lasted only two days, and I found myself with better health and a better appetite, so concluded there was much truth in the old adage that " it is an ill wind that blows no one any good." After recovering my equilibrium I made new friends and some interesting acquaintances, who helped to make the days pass swiftly by. On this coast there is no object worthy of note after leav-

The Columbia. 15

ing Cape Mendocino; and no incident worthy of mention occurred. We could see nothing but the fish, the broad expanse of water, and the blue sky overhead.

On the third day at sea we steamed into Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia River. This place has the largest salmon fisheries in the world, and is about 650 miles from San Francisco. The bay in the vicinity of Astoria is dotted with fishing boats whose occupants are engaged in catching fish for the canning establishments. These unfortunate fishermen often meet with accident, and wrecks and loss of life are of frequent occurrence, as this is a stormy shore. Astoria is an old, flat, rusty-looking town, with wooded bluffs in the background. The surrounding country is well timbered. A large number of sailing craft can be seen from Astoria plying up and down the coast between Puget Sound and San Francisco; they are principally engaged in the lumber trade. The northern coast of California exports a large amount of choice lumber, such as sugar pine, spruce and redwood to Australia, Japan and the East.

After leaving Astoria we entered the famous Columbia River. On either side of this stream is a succession of elevated ranges thickly dressed in spruce and pine. When the powerful engine of our steamer # had forced its way through the foaming current for 100 miles, we found ourselves at Portland, which is situated on the western bank of the Willamette River, a tributary of the Columbia. Portland is the metropolis of Oregon, and has a population of 40,000. It is said to be one of the richest cities in proportion to its size in the United States. It is well laid out, with many beautiful residences, and is destined, by reason of its natural advantages, to become a large city within the next twenty years. Several large ocean vessels were anchored at her wharves loading wheat for Europe. Oregon is blessed with a very rich soil, an abundance of rain, and an almost inexhaustible supply of timber; her many valleys are fertile and picturesque. The lofty eminence which girts the city of Portland seems to prove the greatest attraction for tourists. Here they can overlook the shipping, and the life and bustle in the city below. Here, also, can be seen the farms and groves of the broad Willamette Valley, and a distant view can be had of five of the largest mountains in the United States: Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount Tacoma, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. The peaks of these mountains are covered with perpetual snow.

After leaving Portland, I resumed my journey by rail for St. Paul, a distance of about 1,950 miles, which we made in less than four days. It seemed but a short space of time before we were over the Cascade Mountains and into Eastern

Washington Territory. 17

Oregon. Along this route, on the Columbia River, can be seen some of the finest railway engineering and wildest mountain scenery in the West; the further you follow the winding, foaming stream, the more the scenery increases in grandeur and interest. At Wallula Station we found that we had left the Web-foot State. Here I resumed my journey in the direction of Walla Walla. The country, as seen from the cars, presented a variety of scene and soil. At times fertile fields presented themselves to our view, again we were treated to a succession of hills covered with bunch grass, and at other times stretches of country which boasted of no vegetation but sage-brush met our view. As the eastern portion of Washington Territory is remote from the market, and has no extensive railway system to transport its products, wheatraising is indulged in to but a limited extent. The principal industry is stock-raising ; vast herds of cattle can be seen grazing on the hills. At Ainsworth the cars crossed the Snake River on one of the largest iron bridges on the Northern Pacific. Spokane Falls is the last and one of the most important towns in Washington Territory. It is surrounded by timber, and contains several sights of interest, including the most imposing waterfalls east of the Cascade Mountains. From here on to the Idaho line the land is uncultivated, and barren of vegetation. We crossed over into

Idaho, and journeyed along the shores of Lake Pend d'Orielle. This beautiful body of water is fed by snow from the surrounding peaks. Our road wound its way around these lofty mountains, until at last we found ourselves in the gateway of the Rocky Mountains. Here a grand sight met our eyes: the snow-covered peaks glistening in the sun, the streams and cataracts tearing their way down the mountain's side, all proclaimed this to be one of Nature's masterpieces. Idaho produces large amounts of gold and silver. We found the country to be thickly timbered, but poorly improved. The principal resources of this Territory are stock-raising and mining. Boise City, its capital, is the centre of a large mining district, and many extensive mines are in operation in its vicinity.

Speeding along at a rapid rate, we soon reached Montana, the finest stock-raising country on the Northern Pacific road. Vast herds of cattle could be seen all through this country: the land is mostly owned by the government, and these Montana stockmen have extensive ranges now, where probably, in a few years, when the tide of emigration turns that way, there will be many farms and the land will be extensively cultivated. Much of the beef is exported to Europe. In addition to her stock-raising interests, Montana has a fine climate, much rich soil, and great mineral wealth. At Mullen's Pass we crossed the main chain of the Rocky

Crossing the Rocky Mountains. 19

Mountains, passing through a tunnel nearly 4,000 feet in length, and at an altitude of 5,500 above the level of the sea. The road eastward runs through a level valley which is well timbered. We found the scenery very picturesque. The next place of interest was Helena, the capital and largest city. It is situated on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, and also near the headwaters of the Missouri River. The country on the northern side of the city has a panoramic appearance, — lofty mountain peaks loom up in the distance, and add much to the grandeur of the scene. Helena is the centre of one of the largest mining districts on the continent. In the last few years many million dollars have been taken from the soil, and there are a large number of extensive paying mines at present in operation. Montana, however, seems to have been designed by nature for a great pastoral country, and reaps larger returns from her stock-raising interests than from her mineral wealth.

As we journeyed eastward from Helena, I was much impressed by the extensive valleys : always could be seen in every direction the vast herds of cattle grazing on the seemingly abundant feed. To my mind, it was a perpetual reminder of beefsteak. At Livingston, 125 miles east of Helena, there is a branch road to the National Yellowstone Park, a distance of sixty miles. This famous resort I decided to visit, and while here I met tourists from home and abroad, who, like myself, had been impressed with a desire to witness one of nature's greatest wonders. This valley is enclosed by mountains, many over 10,000 feet in height. Its deep canyons, lofty falls and numerous bathing pools, geysers and lakes, make it in many respects the most wonderful portion of the continent, and even of the world. It has been set aside by Congress as a " perpetual reservation for the benefit and instruction of mankind." Some of the hot springs and geysers throw boiling water hundreds of feet into the air. Yellowstone Lake is seventeen miles wide by twenty miles long. Several small steamers on this lake convey the tourist to various points of interest. It strikes me it would be well to call this park the playground of America, as Switzerland is termed the playground of Europe.

Well, as the writer is a traveler on the wing, he resumes his journey on the main line. Journeying eastward from Livingston, we arrived at Glendive, an important trading post. We had now traveled 800 miles, the extreme length of Montana. While penciling these last notes in my memorandum book the iron horse has whirled us over the boundary line into Dakota. Medora is the first station on the Little Missouri. It is surrounded by many odd and Curious hills, in all shapes and sizes, called "The Bad Lands," and I was fully convinced that these lands did not

Dakota. 21

belie their name; the soil seemed to be of every kind and color ; great numbers of cattle were seen grazing on every hill. Here, also, are extensive hunting grounds; wolves, buffalo, deer and elk can be found on the prairies. This must be a paradise for hunters. The next station we arrived at was Dickenson, which is located in a fertile valley. It had the appearance of being a hunting ground also, if one could judge from the variety of stuffed deer, wolves, and the skins of wild animals which were hanging in sight and were. for sale at the depot. After passing New Salem, we began to see new settlements, the first .we had seen in this remote region. Western Dakota has a fertile soil, and vegetation grows luxuriantly. It is, however, destitute of timber: this creates a scarcity of fuel, which is a great drawback to the prosperity of this section, where the winters are long and severe. The coal which is used here has to be brought a long distance, and at great expense for transportation. Mandan is a thrifty city of 3,000 inhabitants, situated on the west bank of the Missouri River, about half way between the Montana and Minnesota line, and is the terminal point of the Dakota and Minnesota division of the road.

The whole country west of Mandan is dotted with rude farm houses. All of these farms are scantily improved, and everything bears evidence of newness and want of means. But the tiller of the soil in Dakota has a fine prospect before him, and in a few years will reap the reward of his labors, and independence and comfort will take the place of the inconveniences and discomforts attending the life of the pioneer. On the east bank of the Missouri stands the thriving city of Bismarck, a place of about 10,000 inhabitants, a large proportion of whom are Europeans. The Missouri here is spanned by an enormous iron bridge, the largest structure of the kind on the Northern Pacific between Portland and St. Paul. Between Bismarck and the Minnesota line the aspect of the country changes most favorably; it is level and fertile, covered with fields of waving grain. The main attraction to farmers in this section of Dakota is the farms of Dalrymple. These farms consist of 75,000 acres, all under cultivation. It was harvest time when I saw them, and the vast prairie, covered with its wealth of golden grain, presented a brilliant sight. The Dalrymple farms are situated in the valley of the Red River of the North, the banner farming belt of Dakota. I was now reminded of our extensive farms in California, to me the garden spot of the earth. I could not but think how her farmers were favored with the mild, even climate and the long, dry summers that afford such ample time to harvest the grain.

Minneapolis. 23

After 350 miles of rapid riding in Dakota, we arrived at Fargo, on the western bank of the Red River of the North. This stream is the division line between Dakota and Minnesota. On the east side of the river we found the enterprising town of Moorhead, and had our first glimpse of Minnesota, the fourth greatest grain State in the American Union. Were it not for the high latitude and the long and severe winters, she would lead the van as a great grainsgrowing State. All along the line of the railroad could be seen signs of wealth and prosperity, especially in the Red River Valley. Brainerd, an attractive and flourishing city of 10,000 inhabitants, is situated on the Mississippi River 140 miles northwest of St. Paul. It is surrounded by a vast and fertile prairie that is dotted with beautiful farms. Pursuing my journey eastward, the next place of importance reached was Little Falls, situated among and surrounded by forest trees, and boasting of having the largest hotel on the Northern Pacific Railroad. It also has a branch railroad running to Minnewaska Lake, one of the loveliest summer resorts in Minnesota.

One hundred miles more and we entered Minneapolis, the queen city of the Northwest. This city has a population of 1 25,000, and is one of the greatest milling points in the world. It is situated on a level plain on the western bank of the Mississippi'.

Many of the streets are lined with imposing buildings which would do justice to either London or Paris. Aside from being a great railroad centre, this city is backed by a densely settled farming country, extending over the fertile pbins to the Red River Valley. One of the chief points of interest is St. Anthony's Falls. It is a magnificent sight to watch the foaming torrent as it tears its way over rocks and precipices until it reaches the Mississippi. This fall is often called the Niagara of the West. It has an estimated capacity of 135,000 horse-power at the lowest stage of water. This water-power is utilized in the various mills, some of which I visited. The Washburn and Pillsbury Mills are said to have the greatest grinding capacity of any mills in the world. Long trains of cars can always be seen here loading flour, which is shipped to Chicago, and from thence to various points on both continents, and this flour is converted into bread to feed the hungry millions with. While here I also visited several woolen factories, where hundreds of men and women are constantly employed in the manufacture of woolen goods.

Twelve miles from Minneapolis lies St. Paul, the capital of the State. It is a thriving, enterprising commercial city, situated at the head of navigation on the Mississippi River. This city is built on an elevation, and one can have a magnifi-

St. Paul. 25

cent view of the river, upon which boats can be seen during most of the year plying up and down the stream. While St. Paul has not the water-power that Minneapolis has, she has the advantage of being the capital of a growing and prosperous State, and this advantage she intends to retain. A great rivalry exists between these two cities, each trying to control the great growing Northwestern, trade; but the suburbs of each are growing out in the direction of the other, and it seems as if the two must soon become one great city, with interests in common and a common destiny. The growth they have made within the last score of years has been marvelous. When I first visited Minnesota, twenty-five years ago, each of these places had less than 7,000 inhabitants. In 1886 they had a combined population of over a quarter of a million.

St. Paul has various means of egress. One can have their choice of a number of routes by rail, or they can travel by water on the river steamers until that becomes monotonous, and then can return to the swifter method of transit. But at this juncture I concluded to stay with the rail, so took the train at the Union Depot, on the line known as the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul. The first city of importance that I arrived at in the Badger State was La Crosse, situated on the Mississippi River, and also at the mouth of the Black River. It is the centre of a large lumber industry. From here I resumed my journey to Kilbourn City, on the Wisconsin River, a distance of eighty miles. The chief attractions on this route were the numerous bluffs and thickly wooded valleys, until we arrived at the Dells. This place is quite a summer resort for Milwaukee and Chicago people, who come here during the warmest part of the summer to enjoy a change of scene and of air. The Dells are a narrow, rocky gorge, only a few feet wide, and miles long, where the Wisconsin River penetrates through bluffs whose high and curious walls extend perpendicularly in the air. It is an interesting sight to stand on one of these high elevations during- a freshet in the spring, and watch the foaming torrent of water pouring into this narrow passage. Thirty years ago, before I became a pioneer to the then far West, my home was near Kilbourn City. Here my parents first made their home after emigrating from Europe. Here my boyhood days were spent among the tamaracks and oaks in the green meadows. In the winter we were surrounded by snow-clad hills, and near us were beautiful lakes. I enjoyed a brief and pleasant sojourn among my many old and almost forgotten friends. Time had wrought many changes; but memory, busy with the past, brought many

Milwaukee — Chicago. 27

pleasant recollections to my mind. Old-time scenes and incidents were recalled.

After bidding my friends adieu, I again resumed my journey. I took the cars at Kilbourn City, and was soon swiftly speeding away over marshes, swamps, tree-clad hills and rolling prairie. On this route the towns worthy of note were Portage and Watertown ; ere long we arrived at Milwaukee, the largest city in Wisconsin. It is one of the five great lake ports, and has a large commerce in breadstuff's, provisions and lumber. The next city of importance was Racine, which is not far from the boundary line of Illinois, and we soon arrived at Chicago, which is a great railway centre, and I again have my choice of a variety of routes. It is not the intention of the writer to make extended mention of these large cities which lie on the beaten line of travel and are so well known to us all, but rather to give a brief resume of the places of importance he passed on his journey over the continent.

Chicago is a city of recent and remarkable growth, its population having increased nearly 70 per cent, in the last ten years. Originally built on low ground, it has become, in its grading, drainage and water supply, a monument to the energy, sagacity and public spirit of its citizens. In October, 1 87 1, a fire, one of the most destructive in modern times, swept away three and a quarter miles of its most valuable storehouses and resi-

Scenes Through Pennsylvania. 29

dences. Notwithstanding - this sudden calamity, the most extensive and disastrous that ever befell an American community, the new Chicago that has already sprung from the old is, in every respect, a grander city. It is the commercial metropolis of the St. Lawrence basin, the chief lumber and pork market in America, and, next to London, the greatest grain market in the world.

On leaving Chicago, I decided to travel by way of the Fort Wayne & Pennsylvania Railroad, and, by so doing, I passed many of the largest iron mines, viewed some of the rolling mills, and visited all of the principal cities in Pennsylvania, including Pittsburg, Harrisburg and Philadelphia. I also crossed the largest rivers in the State, and made the climb over the Alleghany Mountains. I here saw some of the grandest mountain scenery and most difficult railway engineering in the Union. Arriving at Philadelphia, I proceeded to view the points of interest. I visited the U. S. Mint, and had a fine view of the city from the elevated railway. The most famous public building is the old State House, where the Declaration of Independence was adopted, July 4th, 1 776. Philadelphia is the second city in the United States in manufactures and population, and the fifth in the amount of its foreign commerce ; it also has an extensive domestic commerce, and is the greatest coal depot in America. It is noted for its Fairmount Park, its well supplied markets, and its abundance of cheap and comfortable dwellings ; it is sometimes called the " City of Homes."