Journal of travels around the world

Preface

The following pages contain a simple narrative — without pretense to literary elegance — of travels around the world, wHcli were full of interest and instruction to me. I can but hope that my plain account of them will be of equal interest to others, and have the satisfaction of furnishing it for the perusal of such friends as may desire to read it.

A journey around the world is a very different undertaking to-day from what it was when Columbus first crossed the Atlantic. The vessels in which he made his adventurous voyages are said to have been less than one hundred tons' burden, but now some of our ocean-steamers are of the capacity of five thousand tons. Before the introduction of steam upon the sea, it took a sailing-ship from thirty to forty days to cross the Atlantic, but now the passage can be made in less than ten days, and the time is reduced in the same proportion in the voyage

around the world.

G. E. WmATs^TS.

New York, November 1, 18'76.

Contents

PAGE I*^EFAX3E 3

I. New York to San Feanoisco 9

-Albany— Niagara Fall 8— Detroit— C h icago — Omaha— Cheyenne — Larami e City —The Plains— The Rocky Mountains— The Devil's Gate— Salt Lake City— The Mormons— The Tabernacle— Brigham Young— The People — Cape Horn — Union Pacific Railroad — Sacramento.

Chapter I. New York To Sai^ Fratn'cisco

September 7, 1875. — Mrs. G. E. Winants and I leave Bergen Point, New Jersey, upon a tonr around tlie world. We take passage this afternoon on the steamer Chancellor for New York ; at six o'clock w^e embark upon the steamer St. John, the Hudson River night-boat for Albany, en route for San Francisco, distance thirty- three hundred miles ; fare by palace-cars one hundred and thirty-six dollars apiece in gold.

September Sth. — Albany. We arrive here this morning at seven o'clock ; take breakfast at the Delavan House ; at 9 a. m. we resume the tour by the New York Central Railroad, arriving at Niagara Falls at 9 a. 3i., distance four hundred and forty miles. Take rooms in the Cataract Hotel; board four dollars and a half per day for each person.

September 9t?i, — Niagara Falls doubtless are to-day, as centuries ago, ever charming and beautiful to behold,

10 AROUND THE MOELL.

and may justly be classed among the great wonders of the world. They are the pride of America ; their grand eur, mao^nitude, and mag^niiicence, are well known to all the civilized world. Ever since the discovery of this wonderful catai'act, millions of people have flocked thither from all countries, to gaze with feelings of the deepest solemnity on the tumultuous fall of waters, and to adore the power and majesty of the Almighty as these are exhibited and realized. The Great Lakes of North America, namely, Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie, jiour the flood of their accumulated waters into Lake Ontario through a channel of about thirty-six miles in length, called the Niagara River, which is part of the boundary=line between Canada and the State of New York. Twenty-two miles below its commencement at Lake Erie are the famous Falls of Niagara. These Falls are divided into two by Goat Island : the American Falls are nine hundred feet Avide by one hundred and sixty-four feet high ; the Horseshoe, or Canadian Falls, are two thousand feet wide, and one hnu^lred and fifty-eight feet high. It is said that the discovery of this stupendous waterfall was first made by a white man, a French Jesuit missionary, in the year 1678. There are two bridges which span the Niagara River : one, about two miles below tlie Falls, used principally by railroad-cars and cai-riages ; and the other is but a few hundred yards below the cataract, designed chiefly for foot-passengers and light carriages. A large number of people, becoming too venturesome, have lost their lives by being carried over the Falls. Even to-day a gentleman lost his grasp of the

NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. H

bank, and was carried over by the rushing waters, never to rise again. This evening we leave Niagara by the nine o'clock train en route for Chicago, distance about five hundred and fifty miles.

September 10th. — We arrive at Detroit at 7 a.m., where we stop for three hours and take breakfast. At 9 p. M. we arrive in tbe city of Chicago, and put up at the Sherman Hotel ; board four dollars apiece per day.

September 11th. — We devote the time principally in looking over the city, sight-seeing. The burned district lias been built over by the construction of larger and more substantial buildings of stone, in a more uniform and elaborate style ; there is only a slight tracing of the burned district visible to designate the large conflagration of 1871, which spread over two square miles of the best section of the city.

September 12th. — This being tlie Sabbath, we attended the Presbyterian Church, two miles out from the business part of tlie city.

September IMh. — This morning by the ten-o'clock train we resume our tour en route for Omaba, distance ^yq hundred miles. At 1^ p. m. we arrive at Mendota, and take dinner ; at 7 p. m. Ave take tea at Burlington, where we <?ross the Mississippi River.

September 14^A. — This morning at ten o'clock we arrive at Council Bluffs, on the banks of the Missouri River, where we stop about thirty minutes. After crossing the bridge, on the opposite side of the river, we are in the city of Omaha, where we make another stop. Omaha contains a population of about eighteen thousand, and suddenly sprang into existence by tlie construction of the Union Pacific Eailroad. This road^ with the Central Pacific and other connecting links, reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, is conceded to be the longest in the Avprld. Though but little faith was at first felt in the successful construction of this great railway, no one at the present day can fail to appreciate the enterprise which characterized the progress and final completion of this road, and its immense value both to our own people and the world at large. The first contract for construction was made in the year 1863, and the road was completed in 1869 ; over it cars have since been running regularly. This immense road is from Omaha to San Francisco two thousand miles in length, and from New York to Omaha thirteen hundred miles, making together a continuous line of rail of thirty -three hundred miles from New York to San Francisco. The completion of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads, the great highway of nations, has ojDened a new era in the passenger-travel of the country. Crossing over the American Continent by rail in seven days, from ocean to ocean, is as a household word throughout the land. The steady increase in the number of people going to and returning from the great West enables us to form some idea of the future mammoth proportions to which the passengertraffic will arrive. When I crossed over this road in 1869, the average was about twenty passengers per day, and now it has increased to about one hundred and twenty-five first-class travelers per day, besides the emigrants. The road has but few tunnels, and these pass

NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. 13

througli a soft species of rock or rotten-stone. The principal part of tlie road runs over a plain as level as the sea, except in crossing over the Sierra ISTevadas and the Black Hills of the Rocky Mountains, where w^e find a heavy but gradual upgrade. The greatest elevation on the Union Pacific is at Sherman, eight thousand jtwo hundred and forty-two feet, and was said to be the greatest height that railroad - cars ever reached; but there ai'e higher points now reached by rail in South America. The variegated peaks of the mountains are covered with perpetual snow. The grade of the Central Pacific as it winds around these high peaks is one hundred and sixteen feet to the mile, the highest point being about seven thousand feet. As we approach the summit of the Sierra Nevada, on our left the rugged mountain-bluffs rise in quick succession to a great height, even above the clouds, while on the right the deep ravine descends abruptly for over a thousand feet. This wild, picturesque scene is most interesting, striking one with awe and astonishment at the power of Him who modeled the world, and made everything therein for the benefit and enjoyment of man.

The surface of the country between the Black Hills and the Bocky Mountains, and upon the Battlesnake Bange, is level for several hundred miles ; hence the road has an easy grade, even u]3 to the top of the mountains, winding its way gently around the higher peaks. Taking the road altogether, it has not cost for grading, per mile, more than half as much as our oi"dinary Eastern ^nd Southern roads. There are serious objections, however, to the locality of the road, namely : if it had been constructed some three or four hundred miles farther south, it would have run through a more fertile section of country, and would have built up more rapidly towns and cities, and also avoided the cold climate, as well as the banks of snow, which are said to be piled up during the lengthy winters like mountain-tops. The railroad companies have made some provision against the heavy snowfall by constructing snow-sheds over the track, which extend for many miles, and yet what has been done is not sufficient to break off the heavy drifts which loom up from forty to sixty feet high. In consequence of not having any rainfall, during the summer and autumn months on the mountains, for the distance of over a thousand miles, there is not a spear of grass or green herb to be seen, except at intervals along some small brook in whicli the snow-water finds its way from off the distant mountain-tops.

On leaving Omaha we stop for thirty minutes at Fre> mont and take dinner. This is a small town containing about three thousand inhabitants, and is said to be rapidly on the increase. At 6 p. m. we arrive at Grand Island and take supper. This place, it is claimed, will become an important railroad centre. It seems to have a good supply of churches, schools, hotels, and stores.

September 15th. — This morning early, as we were gliding over the plains, we saw in the distance a fine herd of antelope. . All through the day, at intervals, we passed by numerous emigrant-wagons, loaded with men^ women, and children, some drawn by oxen and some

N^FW YORK TO SAN FRANCTSOO.

"by males, dragging their Wiiy through the prairies, some going west, others going east. We stop at Sidney for thirty minutes and take breakfast. The Government has established a military post at this station, and erected extensive barracks and warehouses for the better protection of the road. At one o'clock we stop at Cheyenne

CHETENIfE.

and dine. This town is located at the base of the Rocky Mountains ; it contains a population of about four thousand souls, and is the county-seat of Laramie County, and the capital of Wyoming Territory. At one time Cheyenne is said to have been infested with roughs, gambling-hells, and dance-houses, and had frequent murders by night and day; this lasted until the quiet and l^etter class of citizens took the law into their own han^ls and hung some of tlie desperate characters ; others fled, for fear of arrest, and now the town is in a flourishing condition. We stop at Fort Laramie and take supper. This fort was established in 1869, to protect the men working on the railroad against the Indians, who made several raids uj)on the road and killed many of the laborers.

September \^tli. — This morning we breakfast at Green River. It is said that, in early times, an important trading-post was located near this station, held by the Mormons, who reaped a rich harvest of from five to twenty dollars a team for crossing them over the river, according as the owners w^ere able to pay. We stop for thirty minutes at Evanston and take dinner. Later in the day we pass by the " One-Thousand-mile-Tree," called by that name on account of its being one thousand miles from Omaha. After leaving the big tree we soon j^ass through the Devil's Gate, and behold another wild scene of Nature's works. At six o'clock we arrive in Ogden, and after tea we take the cars by the branch road, which is thirty-six and a half miles long, built ])y the Mormons, and arrive in Salt Lake City at eight o'clock. The fare on this branch line from Ogden and return is five dollars. We put up in the Townsen Hotel ; board four dollars per day in gold for each j^ersou.

Septemher 17th. — Salt Lake is situated on a broad plateau, about twenty miles in width, bounded on two sides l)y a cliain of higli mountains. This plain is divided by a small river running directly through its centre, called the Jordan, a beautiful stream, which in its

NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. 17

general appearance resembles the river of the same name in Palestine. The city proper is situated directly west of and at the base of a chain of high mountains, which loom up over eleven thousand feet, whose summit is about ten miles distant, and is covered with ])erpetual snow. The city is very prettily laid out with straight streets one hundred and twenty-five feet in width, intersecting at right angles, with wide sidewalks, and rows of large ornamental shade-trees planted on each side. The gutters in all the principal streets are filled with streams of pure running water, conducted through canals from the snowy mountains for the purpose of irrigating the land ; and as the water leaves the gutters it finds its way to and over the farming-lands in the rear of the city. During the summer and autumn months they have no rainfall, and, if it were not for this system of irrigation, the land would not produce crops. Where the lands have been watered by this artificial method, the crops are all very heavy ; but, where the laud has not been w^atered, the soil is seemingly dead. Salt Lake City contains about thirty thousand inhabitants, but the entire settlements of the Mormons in Utah, which extend up and down the valleys for nearly four hundred miles, contain in all over two hundred and fifty thousand souls, and are rapidly increasing, for they are extending railroads, and building up towns and cities, in every direction.

It was in the year 1847 that less than ^yq hundred Mormons, having traveled through a thousand miles of an uninhabited Indian country, settled in the valley of

Salt Lake. They were very poor, and it is probable that the extent of the sufferings and sacrifices made by the Mormons to reach this remote valley will never be known but to those who endured them ; and since tbey have been in this valley they have encountered many fearful vicissitudes. In 1857 they were molested by the troops of the United States Government on account of polyg-

SALT LAKE VALLEY.

amy; in order to defend themselves, they built a rough stone-wall round the city, but at length, finding tliat they could not ward off the invading army, and before it reached the city, they packed up their goods, taking their women and children, and went down into the southern part of Utah, where they remained until the following spring. On their return they found that the army had

NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCTSCO. ^9

departed without doing any material damage to the city, and left a large amount of stores, together with a great number of wagons, which were afterward bought by the Mormons for a merely nominal sum. Instead of this invasion being a damage to the Mormons, in the end it was of great beneiit. It is reported that this movement against the Mormons cost the United States Government nearly three million dollars. When the city of Salt Lake was iirst settled, tbe princi]3al material used was sundried brick, giving it in that respect the appearance of a Spanish town, but the better class of buildings is now being constructed of cut stone in the most modern style ; others are built of wood. The great Tabernacle, which is said to seat fourteen thousand people, is the first object for strangers to see. The building is oblong in shape, having a length of two hundred and fifty feet by one hundred and fifty in width. The roof is suj^ported by forty-six columns of cut sandstone ; from these stone pillars the roof springs, forming an unbroken arch, one of rhe largest self-sustaining roofs on the continent. They have also in course of erection a fine Mormon Temple of cut stone, which, when finished, it is said will cost two million dollars. President Young is now constructing a handsome palace, which will be one of the finest frame houses in America. The Mormons also have a theatre which will seat some thousands of people, and many other large buildings of a public character.

The people are governed by President Young, who is^ assisted by the twelve apostles. Their form of government is plain and simple, and seemingly works well.

The people are said to be quiet and law-abiding. When a person is arrested for a crime, lie is immediately taken before the provost-marshal and tried at once ; if found guilty, a fine is inflicted; if he is unable to pay, a ball and chain are attached to his leg, and he is put at work on the public streets to satisfy the penalty. The administration of government is conducted strictly upon the principle of economy; and, instead of their municipal tax, as in some other cities, being from four to five per cent., it is less than one.

September IStJi. — This forenoon we take a ride to the warm sul23hur springs, and also to the military encampment. Before leaving the city we called upon President Young, who gave us a cordial reception. He is a large, portly gentleman, of over seventy years, but looks young for that age. He was very pleasant, and conversed freely upon the general topics of the day.

It is said that President Young has taken a prominent part in all public improvements, in every plan calculated to facilitate communication between the Territory and the Eastern States, assisting in forming several express companies and stage-lines. He built several hundred miles of the Western Union Telegraph, graded one hundred and fifty miles of the Union Pacific Railroad, and has ever offered his assistance to every enterprise having any bearing on the interest of Utah. He also used every effort to push forward to an early completion the Utah Central Railroad, of which he was the first president. His great influence over his people is strongly illustrated by the ])r()m])tness with which they respond to his call

NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. 21

in every emergency. If it were not for polygamy, which they claim to be the vital part of their religion, they would be as fine a race as we have, for they are a sober^ cleanly, and hard-working people.

We take our departure from Salt Lake City by the three-o'clock train, and arrive at Ogden at five, where we make a change of cars, and resume our tour en route for San Francisco.

September Idth. — Sabbath. This morning we breakfast at Elko. A good meal can be had on any part of the road for one dollar currency or seventy-five cents coin ; the cars stop for thirty minutes at all the regular eating-stations. We dine at Battle Mountain, and take supper at Humboldt. This station is situated on the edge of the great Nevada Desert, and it would be worth the while of any tourist who wishes to examine the wonders of Nature to stop here and remain for a few days.

September 20th. — This morning we pass what is called Cape Horn, which is one of the wildest and grandest scenes on the American Continent. The cars stopped for twenty minutes to give time to the passengers to examine and gaze upon the wonderful works of Nature. Timid people will draw back with a shudder, one look into this fearful chasm being sufficient to unsettle their nerves. On our right the mountain-range towers up above the clouds, while on the left is a ravine over a thousand feet in depth. In a short time after leaving this scene of natural beauty, we arrive at Colfax, where we stop and take breakfast. All through this section can be seen where the gold-diggers have been at work by the evidence

AROUND THE WORLD.

of the soil having been thrown over, and there are now some engaged taking out the precious metal We can see occasionally small towns of huts or cabins inhabited ty those in search of gold, with their families, but we do

REMNANT OF A TRIBE.

not see as many children running about the grounds as in Salt Lake City. In a short time after leaving Colfax we come to Sacramento, the capital of California.

Sacramento a few years ago was a small and unimportant handet, but it has emerged into a thriving, bustling city, containing a population of twenty-fiv^e thousand. The ground upon which the city is located is h^v, and the younger town was swept away by the overfl(nv of tlie river of the same name. To guard against a recurrences of this evil, they raised the bed of the city

NEW YORK TO SAN FliANCISVO. 23

above tlie highest known flood, and built a more sui)- stantial style of residences. We proceed on our way, and dine at Lathrop. At half-past five o'clock we arrive in the city of San Francisco, and take up quarters in the Occidental Hotel ; board three dollars per day each in gold.

Chapter II California

September 21s^. — Finally, here we are, on the golden shore of California. We have traveled over one of the longest roads in the world, from the far East to the far West ; from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; from where the sun rises out of the waters to where it sets in the waters. The city of San Francisco presents a picturesque and yet broken appearance, owing to a portion being built on the hills, which attain a considerable altitude. From the toi^s of these hills a fine view of the town can be obtained. The city j)i'oper is located upon a narrow peninsula, which separates the bay of San Francisco from the Pacific Ocean. As the city continues to increase in size it extends back from the bay, takes in and covers over several high hills, among which is Prospect Hill, three hundred feet high ; Russian Hill, three hundred and sixty feet ; Clay Hill, nearly four hundred feet ; and Lone Mountain, which is twelve hundred feet — through all of which the streets are being rapidly extended. The dirt taken from these hills is removed to the water-front and used for filling in the bay, with which hundreds of acres have been reclaimed. As soon as the new-made ground is raised above water, storehouses are built for the use of commerce.

CALIFORNIA. 25

The city ^\as principally settled by Americans in the year 1849, wlio emigrated from Eastern and Western States in search of gold, and, in consequence of the great desire for wealth, there was but little attention ])aid to building up the city until several years later ; and that part constructed by the pioneers has long since been swept away, and more substantial and commodious buildino-s have been erected. The new houses are of brick, cemented on the outside, giving them the appearance of stone ; others are built of stone. In consequence of the frequent earthquakes to which the city is subject, the inhabitants hud it unsafe to run their buildings up as high as those in Eastern cities, lest they should be shaken down by the elements.

The harbor of San Francisco is one of the finest and most commodious in America, if not in the world. Its entrance is through the Golden Gate, which is one and a half mile in width and about three miles inland from the ocean, where the bay is entered, and in front of which the city of San Francisco is located. This spacious bay is sixty miles long, varying from four to nineteen miles in width, with a depth of water capable of floating the largest shijDs; there is a great number of vessels of all nationalities in this port. Regular lines of steamers connect San Francisco with Japan, China, and all j^oints on the northern and southern Pacific coast, while steamboats and railroads connect with all the important inland towns and cities.

When the ship-canal which is in contemplation shall have been constructed across the isthmus of Central

AROUND THE WOELD.

America, together with the great Union and Central Pacific Kaiboads, and other connecting links which are ah^eady projected, with a rich and fertile soil, and the mineral resources of the Pacific coast more fully devel-

SAN FRANCISCO.

oped, San Fi-ancisco is destined to become a great commercial emporium of North America, second only to Ne\v York in magnitude.

Tlie city of San Francisco claims to have a population of two hundred and seventy thousand souls, consisting of all nationalities; and, should she continue to increase in the future in the same ratio as in the past, doubtless her numbers will soon exceed the present

CALIFORNIA. 27

population of the city of New York. The suburbs are rapidly increasing. Oakland, on the ojiposite side of the bay from San Francisco, has grown within a few years from a small hamlet to be a city of considerable magnitude. Many of the business-men of San Francisco make Oakland their place of residence. The peo])le of the town claim that, for that purpose, it far surpasses San Francisco. Its genial climate, its delightful scenery, its smooth macadamized streets, shaded with evergreen foliage, and its superb drives and beautiful gardens, have induced many people of wealth to settle in Oakland City.

California is the finest fruit-growing country in which I have been. Peaches, pears, plums, figs, and grapes, grow in perfection. Some of this fine fruit is transported to New York and other Eastern markets ; but the distance over rail is too far to send fruit, for it loses its flavor before coming into use. Grapes are extensively cultivated in all parts of the State, and the wine made from the most suitable grapes is said to be quite as good as that imported from foreign countries.

The climate of San Francisco is rather peculiar. In the forenoon the town has a dingy appearance, having strong indications of a rainy day ; about ten o'clock it clears up with ])right sunshine, and in the afternoon the effect of the cool breeze is felt from off the ocean. There are only ten degrees difference in the temperature between summer and winter. When I was here, during the summer of 1869, it seemed novel to see ladies promenade the streets of San Francisco in the month of July, dressed in furs, and gentlemen in overcoats, sucli as we would consider to be winter clothing.

September 22c/. — To-day we cross over tlie bay of San Francisco to tlie city of Oakland, and visit Mr. Mark Winant and family, formerly of Staten Island, wbo receive us cordially. What Brooklyn is to New York City, Oakland is to tlie city of San Francisco. The town derived its name from being built in a forest of evergreen oaks, wdth orchards of fruit-trees, parks, gardens^ and vineyards, on every side. Amid this forest of perpetual green can be seen, peeping out here and there^ the substantial residence of the wealthy merchant, the magnificent villa of the nabob, and the neat and tasteful cottage of the well-to-do mechanic, wdio have been attracted here by its grand scenery, mild climate, and quiet surroundings, being free from the dust, noise, and bustle, of a large city. It is suj^plied with gas and water, and two daily newspapers. Churches and schools are more numerous in Oakland, according to its po23ulation, than in San Francisco. The city has a population of fifteen thousand, and is rapidly increasing.

September 23c/. — To-day we take a ride out to the cemetery and suburbs.

September 24,th. — This afternoon we hire a carriage and ride out to the Seal-Kocks, a fashionable place of resort, which are six miles out. A good macadamized road leads from the city over a succession of sand-hills ; from the summit of some of these hills we occasionally catch a glimpse of the ocean and bay in the distance ; as we pass over the summit of the farthest and highest of

CALIFORNIA. 29

tliese hills, almost at our feet tlie great Pacific Ocean, in all its mystery and majesty, opens before us. On our right, in the distance, can be seen the Golden Gate, which is open to ships of all nations. Some three hundred yards from the land two rugged rocks rise abruptly out of the sea, to the height of about seventy-five feet, forming an area of perhaps an acre each, literally covered with seals and sea-lions ; the seals were of the size of a Newfoundland dog, but the sea-lions much larger, and their noise resembled that of the bark of a dog; they are seemingly tame, and are protected by the laws of the State. They cling to the rocks as tenaciously as if they had been in possession for thousands of years. They often come in conflict, struggling for the higher places, and engage in loud disputation, unlike any controversy which I have ever heard before ; their fierce growls and barks could be heard for miles. I doubt if there is another such scene to be witnessed anywhere in the world.