A seven months' run, up, and down, and around the world

Front matter

V- v -<p

UP, AND DOWN, AND ABOUND THE WOELD.

JAMES BROOKS

Letter I. On, To, And Over The Pacific

The Start from New York to go round the World.— Thinking out loud on Paper.— No fine Writing, Scribhling only.— Car Life on the Prairies and Eoeky Mountains, but no Rocky Mountains. — The Way the Engineer dodges them. — The Holy Land of Mormondom, 1

Letter II. On, To, And Over The Pacific

The Mormon Holy Land. — Geographically like the Holy Land over the Sea. — How- Irrigation has made the Desert a Garden. — The Apostles and Elders of Mormondom. — The Holy Temple. — Brigham Toung in the Temple. — The Women and the Fashions in Salt Lake City. — Beelzebub stirring up Rebellion. — The Grasshoppers and the Gulls, 10

LETTER HI.

ON AND FROM THE PACIFIC.

Around the World only a " Trip." — Snow on the Mountains and Alkali Plains . — Forty- Miles of Snow-sheds. — Sudden Descent from Ice and Snow to Apricots and Strawberries. — Sacramento.— New Railroad and Steamboat Routes, ... 18

LETTER IY.

ON THE PACIFIC.

From the Golden Gate to Yokohama. — The "Japan," and the motley Crowd on board. — Is, or is not, the Pacific Ocean a Humbug ? — The Amusements on board. — The Police of the Ship. — Spoke a Boston Ship.— Meeting a Steamer in Mid-ocean, exchanging Mails, etc., 24

LETTER V.

ON THE PACIFIC.

Life and Thoughts on Ship-board. — The Day Lost in Bounding the World. — "Down East" is out West. — A Puzzled Traveller. — Summer Life on this Ocean. — The Second Exchange of Letters — The Sixteenth Amendment. — Curious Congregation of Passengers, 81 viii CONTENTS.

LETTER VI.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS IN JAPAN.

Arrival in Japan.— First Impressions on the Coast. — The Fishermen in "Georgia Costume." — Everything New, Everything Odd. — Bamboo Baskets for Hats. — Straw Overcoats.— Landing on the Hatoba. — The Cues of the Japanese. — The Brawny Coolies. — Travelling Eestaurants. — Strange Street Spectacles. — The Tattooed Men. — The Horse Boy (Betto). — Hair Dressing. — Shocking Black Teeth of the Married "Women, 40

LETTER VII.

THE CITY OF YEDO.

The First Day in Tedo.— The Eide on the " Tocaido."— Strange Sights there.— The Pretty Tea Girls. — The Tiny Tea Cups. — Eooms with Paper Partitions.— The Beggars. — The Gin-rick-a Sha. — Eide in State along the "Tocaido.'" — Hogs in Baskets.— No Tycoon, only a " Mikado." — How we Stare and how they Stare at us. — Great Fire in Yedo, . . .52

LETTER VIII.

LIFE AND SIGHTS IN TEDO.

Sintoo and Buddhist Temples.— The Priests.— The Sacred Cream-Colored Horses. — Theatres in the Temples.— The Opera in Yedo.— Funny Eide thereto in Gin-rick-a Shas, ....** 64

LETTER IX

LIFE AND SIGHTS IN TEDO.

Eyes only Useful Here. — Tongue and Ears Useless. — Shopping in Tedo.— Hotels in Japan. — Grand Hotel in Yedo. — Breakfast with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs at Hamagoten. — Dinner at a Beautiful Country-Seat. — Discussions, Political and Theological. — "Why the Japanese don't like Christians. — The Schools of Japan. — Reading, 'Writing, and Arithmetic almost Universal, 75

LETTER X.

TRAVELLER'S LIFH IN THE INTERIOR.

The Great God of Kamakura. — "Statue of Dai-bootz." — Life in Japanese Tea-Houses. — Ride in a Cango Bamboo Basket. — The Temples around Kamakura. — Beautiful Scenery. — Fields cultivated like Gardens. — The Life and Rank of Japanese Farmers.— Visit to the Cave of Inosima. — Fish Life and Fish Dinners. — The "Mikado" and the " Tocaido."— Politeness and Amiability of the Japanese Farmers, 87

LETTER XI.

RETURN TO TEDO.

In Yedo a Second Time. — Now under a British Escort. — The English Dragoons and Japanese Yakonins.— The British Student Interpreters.— Only a Hundred Caucasians among a Million of Japs. — Paper Windows.— Uneasy Sleeping. — Two-Sworded Loafers. — A Thousand British Troops in Yokohama.— Cheap Shopping in Yedo. — Fashionable Eiding, 98

IX

CONTENTS.

LETTER XII.

THINGS IN JAPAN.

Women among the Japanese. — Their Position and Condition. — Promiscuous Bathing-houses. — The Theatre. — Ticketing Straw Shoes therein. — Jap Stump Orators.— Bamboo in Japan. — Japanese Art. — Shopping in " Curio " Street. — Can spend any Amount of Money. — The Steel of Japan.— The Government of Japan a Feudality. — Railroads, Telegraph, and Mint in Japan, . . . 104

LETTER XIII.

ON THE JAPAN SEAS.

Adieu to Yokohama. — The Foreigners and their Life there. — The All Sorts of Clothes of the East. — The Japanese Passengers on board the Costa Rica. — A Japanese Prince and his Retinue on board.— A Typhoon dodged.— Frightful Loss of Life and Property. — An Earthquake felt. — Curiosity satisfied. — Motley Cargo of the Costa Rica.— Butcher's Meat called Fowl, 112

LETTER XIV.

ON THE INLAND SEA OF JAPAN.

The Beautiful Inland Sea of Japan.— Luxurious Travelling.— Prince Hizen.— Vampire Cat. — Bay of Nagasaki. — The Oldest European Settlement. — The Roman Catholic Priests. — Pappenburg Island. — Thousands of Christians thrown from the Precipice. — The Faith of Roman Catholic Missionaries. — Street Scenes in Nagasaki.— Needle Making.— Porcelain Painting.— Begging Buddhist Priest- Street Actors.— Japanese Confectionery.— Japanese "Woman's Toilet-Box.— Receipt for Blacking the Teeth.— Final Leave of Japan, 120

LETTER XV.

ON, AND OVER TO CHINA.

On the Tellow Sea, bound to Shanghai.— The Great Tang-tze and its Yellow "Water. — Up the "Whang-poo. — Reflections on entering the Great Gates of China.— Thermometer in Shanghai.— Hot, Hotter, Hottest. — Air wanted, a Puff or a Typhoon.— Things In and About Shanghai.— The Summer Costume.— Innumerable Mounds or Graves in the Cotton-Fields. — American Flag in the Yang-tze. — "We are taking the Coasting Trade of China, etc., 129

LETTER XVI.

THE HEALTH OF CHINA.

"Where's Chefoo ?— A "Watering-Place in China.— Amusements There.— The American and Other Fleets.— The Noisy Salutations of the Fleets.— Church Service on the Colorado.— The Corean Expedition.— The Race of the Rival American Barges.— Rain here.— Breakfast by the Russian Admiral.— The English (Universal) Language.— Entertainments given us by the Russians. — Affinity of Russians and Americans.— Admiral Rodgers's State Breakfast. — Divine Service on board the Russian Flag-Ship.— A Busy "Week.— The Novel Assemblage at Chefoo about to disperse, 140 x CONTENTS.

LETTEE XVII.

ON THE PEIHO RIVER.

Tremendous Flood on the Eiver of Peiho. — Whole Villages washed away.— The People drowned out. — Widespread Desolation. — Living on the Eiver on a Yankee Steamer.— The Grand Canal broken loose.— The Crooked Peiho Eiver.— The Way we wound up the Eiver. — The Tear-ago Massacre of Europeans and Catholics in Tien-tsin. — The then Fright of all Missionaries. — Scare about going there. — Guns and Gunboats Commercial and Christian Guarantees. — An Exploration of the Old Under- water Tien-tsin, in a British Launch. — Innumerable Junks.— The Euins of the Eoman Catholic Cathedral. — The Tombs of the slain Sisters. — Terrors predicted for Tourists to Pekin.— Nevertheless, On, On to Pekin, . 149

LETTEE XVIII.

ON, TO PEKIN.

Arrival at Tung-Chow.— Lodged in a Temple. — Ice in Abundance now.— On to Pekin that Night.— The Gates of Pekin at Sunset.— The Infernal Eoad to the Celestial City, in a Mule Cart. — Bump, Thump.— No Getting Out, no Living In. — The Sights on the Tung-Chow and Pekin -Eoad. — The Wheelbarrow Gentry.— Caravans. — First Sight of the Bactrian Camel. — The Great Walls of the City after Sunset. — What John Chinaman thinks of an American -dressed Woman entering his Capital in an Open Sedan-chair. — Difference of Opinion as to Pekin and New York Fashions. — Happy Welcome in the Eussian Legation.— A Cossack Porter opens the Great Gates, 157

LETTEE XIX.

THE JOURNEY TO PEKIN.

How he got to Pekin in a Springless Cart, over a G*mite-Paved Imperial Eoad, Thirteen Miles long when first made, and passable, now thirty, or more, from the Holes in it, and the Crooks to dodge these Holes. — Bones all aching from Pounding, but Bone-Pounding Good Medicine at Times. — The Fit-Out for the Eiver Peiho Journey in Sampans. — Hospitality of the Tien-tsiners. — Bad Water. — Must Liquor or Tea. — Dead Chinamen by millions, and Graves everywhere bad for Wells.— Catalogue of a Peiho Boat Outfit.— The Terrors of the Eoute all exaggerated. — The High Water a Help. — Cut across Lots. — The Supplies en route. — Beggars. — A not Disagreeable Journey. — All Sleeping Unprotected. — No Eeal Perils. — Coolie Comforts. — Sights on the Eiver. — British Manufactures. — The Cock keeps Time for the Coolie in the Morning.— Life in a Junk. — Toilettes there.— The Countless Babies here, 1G-4

LETTEE XX.

FROM PEKIN.

The Guide-Books of Pekin.— The "Ji-hia-kicu-wen-kau" and the " Chcn-yuen-chilio."— Three Cities within Pekin, the Manchu or Tartar, Chinese, and Imperial. — Shopping in Pekin. — Great Fur Market. — Mongolia, Manchuria, Corea, and Siberia Sables, Ermine, etc., etc. — Precious Stones. — Jade» — Greek Chapel on the Grounds of the Eussian Legation. — Life among Chinese Eussians. — Catholic and Protestant Missionaries in Pekin. — Visit to the Eoman Catholic Cathedral. — French Priests and Sister's of Charity. — School for Chinese Children. — Money and the Missionaries. — Conflicts between them. — Foreign and Anti-Foreign Tarty in China. — Chinese Efforts to create Prejudice aguinst Christians, . 173

XI

CONTENTS.

LETTER XXI.

FROM PEKIN.

Paradise in- doors, Tartarus out. — Pekin Holes, Mud, Dust, Dirt.— No Noses in Pekin. — Sights and Smells. — Wealthy Chinese. — Sumptuary Laws in China. — Sedan-chairs. — Marriages and Funerals. — Women of no Account. — Polygamy.— Women's Fashions in Pekin. — Dr. Williams, the Secretary, Bibliophilist, and Encyclopaedist. — The Chinese retrograding. — Confucianism losing its Influence. — Christianity. — Eoman Catholics, when starting here, teaching the Material as well as the Spiritual — Conflict of Christ and Confucius. — The Chinese Classics, 182

LETTEE XXII.

THE TEMPLES IN PEELN.

The Temples in China.— Confucius and the Lama. — The Lessons of Confucius. — His Influence in the Government of the Chinese. — The Sages of China. — Tablets to the Disciples of Confucius. — The Competitive Students. — The Despotism and Democracy of China. — The Diagrams. — The Tang and the Tin. — Intelligence of the Chinese. — The Lama Buddhist Temple. — Mongolian Priests. — Contrast of the Lama and Confucius Temples.— A Chinese Mandarin's House. — Tang was his Name. — Sensation in the Streets. — The Interior of the Mandarin's House. — The Wife and Handmaids. — Description of the Wife's Dress.— Eefreshments. — Walks on the Eoof of the House, 190

LETTEE XXIII.

TEE GOVERNMENT OF CHINA.

The Great Wall of China.— The Overland Eoute to St. Petersburg.— Turned back by a Mohammedan JEmeute.— Now too late or too early in the Season. — Can telegraph from here to New Tork in twelve or sixteen Days. — The Government of China. — Confucius a sort of Ben Franklin or Thomas Jefferson. — No Hereditary Aristocracy. — Public Sentiment governs here as in Great Britain and the United States. — Eailroads and Telegraphs resisted by Superstitions, to be overcome. — China making Great Preparations for War. — Casting Cannon, etc. — China retrograding. — Corruption the Cause. — Mandarin Titles bought and sold. — The Literati Mandarins now dishonest. — The Boy Emperor, fifteen Tears of Age.— His Future not promising. — The Dowager hunting a Wife for him.— The Pekin Gazette, 199

LETTEE XXIY.

FROM THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA.

On Top of the Great Wall of China.— Droves of Sheep, Hogs, Ponies, Donkeys. — Mongolians and Manchus. — Speech-making on Top of the Great Wall. — Speech of J. B. to the Great Wall. — Tartars, a Species of Tankees, leaping over all Walls.— Outfit for the Trip from Pekin to the Great Wall.— Brick Tea.— Sheep'stail Soup. — Eggs in Abundance.— Mule Litters. — Description of the Craft.— The Muleteers. — Mingling Mire, Mud, and Dust. — Sounding for the Bottom of the Bogs.— Dodging into Farms and Gardens. — Eoads in China are Ditches. — The Pass of Nan-Kow. — First Night's Experience in a Mongolian Inn. — A Brick Oven to sleep on.— Journey to the Wall over a Eough and Terrible Eoad.— A Series of Walls.— A Lunch amid Euins of the Wall —The Comfort of a Cup of Cold Water, 208 xii CONTENTS.

LETTER XXV,

RETURN TO PEKIN.

The Ming Tombs.— The Grand Approach to them. — All going to ruin.— The Summer Palace of the Emperors. — " Yueng-Ming-Yuen-Ching," the man-of-all-work. — Letters of Credit no Service in Pekin.— No Coin or Currency in China. — Sycee. — The North of China. — The Emperor gives Audience at 5 a. m.— The Marble Bridge and the Lotus. — The Temple of Heaven.— The Temple of Earth.— The Sacrifices in these Temples by the Emperor, 220

LETTER XXVI.

RETURNING SOUTHWARD.

A Traveller retracing his Steps. — Tung Chow, on the Peiho Eiver. — The "Wheelbarrow Traffic. — Death to the Coolies. — Processions en route. — Of Funerals and "Weddings. — A Good Story told of Gov. Seward.— Mistaking a Euneral Procession for an Ovation to Himself. — Expense of Travelling as a Grandee. — A Temple for a Hotel. — Eunning the Gauntlet of the Junks to Tien-tsin. — The Noisy Monosyllables of the Chinese. — Huge Pyramids of Salt. — Home, Sweet Home. — The Szeckuen. — Under a Yankee Captain from Maine. — The Grapes of the Peiho.— The Soiling Screw Steamers of the Yellow Sea. — Eivalry of British and American Steamers. — Chinese Customs collected by Foreigners. — The American Elag driven off.— Manufactures driven off, 286

LETTEE XXVII.

THINGS IN SHANGHAI.

Shanghai.— Its Enterprises and Surroundings.— The Hot Sun of Shanghai— Turning White Men Yellow.— The City Government of Shanghai.— Eastern Hours for Breakfast and Dinner. — The Great Commerce of Shanghai. — Much of it passing into Chinese Hands. — Tea Trade. — Tea-Tasters. — Telegraphs to, and from Shanghai. — Tea Steamers up the Yang-tze. — Foreign Schemes to dodge the Fung Shuey — Hostility to Electricity.— The Telegraphs from Shanghai via Nagasaki and Vladivastock, in Russia, 247

LETTEE XXVIH.

FROM THE ENGLISH COLONY OF HONG KONG.

How Screw-Steamers roll. — Cabins, Hot, Hotter, Hottest. — Chow Chow excellent. — Sleep in a Stew Prison. — The Great English (P. & O.) and French Lines of Steamers in the East.— Hong Kong.— Typhoons here.— The City the Refuge of the Refuse Chinese. — Curious Intermixture of Population. — The Coolie Emigration here.— The Dialects of China.— Pidgen English.— Chinese Kitchens and Cooks, etc., etc., 255

LETTER XXIX.

THINGS IN CANTON.

"What Canton is.— Its People, Streets, Sowers, etc., etc. — The Temples of Canton. — Sacred Hogs, Confucius and the Stalls.— Caging Students ambitious to be Mandarins.— Do Chinamen eat Cats, Dogs, and Rats ? — The Manufactories of Can- '

CONTENTS. Xlii

ton. — The Silk Gauzes. — An Improvised Breakfast on a Pagoda. — No Beasts of Burthen in the City.— All Coolie Work.— A Sabbath in Canton. — Boat Life there. — Ducks and their Owners. — Gates and Police. — No Going Out Nights. — No Courting.— No Clubs 265

LETTER XXX.

THOUGHTS ON THE CHINA SEAS.

The Imitative Powers of the Chinese.— Their Love of Money. — Population of China over-estimated. — Pisciculture in Canton.-^Chinese Dialects. — "War Talk. —Superstitions of the Ignorant.— Singapore. — The Malay Divers. — Foreign Commerce. — The Census. — The Jungle. — Agriculture, etc., etc., .... 276

LETTEE XXXI.

FROM CEYLON AND THE BAY OF BENGAL.

England, Continuous England. — The Steamer Congregation in Ceylon. — A Grand Oriental Hotel. — Buddhism born here. — Sapphires, Eubies, and Pearls. — The Cingalese great Cheats. — A Monkey Story. — Curious Boats and Boatmen in Galle. — Men here mistaken for Women, and vice versa. — Madras, and Things there. — The Latin Eaces here crowded off by the Anglo-Saxon. — Englishmen here patronize the Shastra and the Veda, as well as the Bible. — Their Eace kept distinct.— A Handful of Englishmen governing a World. — Juggling in Madras. — Golcondaand Juggernaut. — Cyclones and the Church at Sea. — Hymns, etc. . . . 283

LETTER XXXII.

BRITISH INDIA.

England Forever and Ever— 200,000,000 British Subjects— Standing Army of 320,000 Soldiers.— Vast Imports and Exports. — East Indians. — Monkeys or Meij. — Trade and Commerce of India. — The Holy Ganges. — English Water- Works on it. — Calcutta no longer the " Black Hole " — Hot, not Unhealthy. — The Punkah Fan the Great Institution of India. — The Punkah Everywhere. — Tudor and His Ice the Great Things of the East.— The Hancocks, the Websters, Nothing.— The Tudor Every Thing. — Wenham Something. — Boston Nothing. — The Hoogley Eiver and the Cyclones. — Enchanting Approach to Calcutta. — The King of Oude. — A Seventeen Days' Hindoo Holiday in Calcutta. — Polygamy and Polyandry. — Hindooism, Buddhism, Brahminism and Mohammedanism. — The 320,- 000 Standing Army Government of India not a Bad One, . ... 292

LETTEE XXXIH.

THINGS AND THOUGHTS IN CALCUTTA.

The Impudent Crows of Calcutta. — How they chatter. — A Drove of Elephants embarking for War. — The "Central Park " and "Hyde Park" of Calcutta. — Funny Liveries. — The Trade of the Metropolis of India.— Exports, Cutch, Coir, Jute, Indigo, and so on. — The Cocoa-nut Tree. — American Trade. — Assam Tea.— The Opium Trade,' a Government Monopoly. — The Flocks of Servants in Calcutta. — No Women Servants. — All Men. — Men as Washerwomen. — The Woman invisible. — English Women going to India. — The Chit and the Coolie.— The Ladies' Chit.— Charming Social Life in Calcutta, 303 xiv CONTENTS.

LETTER XXXTV.

THE RUN ACROSS INDIA.

Things in India. — Eail from Calcutta to Bombay. — The Raging Sun of India. — The Parsees of Bombay. — Fire Worshippers.— Sunday Evening's Work in Calcutta.— India Eailroad Cars. — How they are cooled, and how they are converting the Pagans. — The Telegraphs of India. — Journalism in India. — Coal in India. — The Way Coolies work. — Indian Muslins and Cashmere Shawls. — The Plains of the Ganges. — The Pagan Temples of India.— Hindoos more intelligent than Mohammedans. — Allahabad. — Jubbalpore. — The Passage of the Ghauts. — Entrance into Bombay, 314

LETTEE XXXV.

SIGHTS IN AND ABOUT BOMBAY.

Bombay.— What it is as a City. — Calcutta the Court ; Bombay the Mart.— New Influences of the Suez Canal. — The Treasures of India here. — Cashmere Shawls. — The Bombay Fashionables on a Drive. — The Parsees. — The way they don't bury their Dead. — India Gods. — Where manufactured. — The Temples of India.— The Wonderful " Elephanta." — Dining Out in the East. — The Eoute to Persia and Aden. — The Census and Exports of Bombay.— Extent of Bailroads in India. — Sound Banks and a good Currency, 329

LETTEE XXXYI.

ON THE ARABIAN AND RED SEAS.

Lascars, Africans, Chinese, Portuguese, and Englishmen, managing a Steamer. — The Infernal Sun of India.— The Eeservoir of Surplus Englishmen.— How India exhausts European Life. — The British Soldier's Luxurious Life in Peace. — The Native Troops of India. — The Grip of England upon India.— Effect of Christianity upon Hindoos and Mohammedans. — The Hindoo Pantheon and 333,000,000 Gods.— The Brahmin Castes. — Bankers below Barbers.— Arabs and their Ocean Craft. — Eailroad from London to Bombay.— Time, Five Days.— England encore, toujour^, forever and ever. — The Eed-Hot Eed Sea. — This Unfinished Part of the Earth. — Aden the Fag End of Creation. — The Divers of Aden.— Strings of Camels Led by their Noses. — The Proper Time to Travel in the East. — Fares and Distances, 340

LETTEE XXXVII.

SUDDEN FLIGHT FROM ASIA AND AFRICA INTO EUROPE.

Among the Alps. — The Isthmus of Suez. — Suez Canal. — Will it pay ?— Egypt and Alexandria. — Confederate Officers in the Pasha's Army. — Horrid (English) Eailroad Cars.— Boreas and the Egyptian Sands.— Across the Mediterranean to Brindisi. — Things in Brindisi and Turin. — How cold it is.— Mt. Cenis and the Great Tunnel. — Glorious Scenery, 353

LETTEE XXXVIII.

THINGS IN PARIS AND LONDON.

Things in Paris and in London. — Shopping in both Cities. — Paris sad just now. — An American almost Home in England. — Liverpool. — Rough Rocking on the Atlantic— Put into Newfoundland for Coal. — St. John's.— Fishermen there. — Home again, Sweet Home, etc., 361

Home fbom a Foreign Siioke, 371

A S^VEN MONTHS RUN,

UP, AND DOWN", AND AROUND THE WORLD.

LETTER I.

OJff, TO, AND OVER TEE PACIFIC.

The Start from New York to go round the World. — Thinking out loud on Paper.— No fine "Writing, Scribbling only. — Car Life on the Prairies and Kocky Mountains, but no Rocky Mountains.— The Way the Engineer dodges them.— The Holy Land of Mormondom.

Salt Lake City, May 26, 1871.

Five days' start from New York, only ; left there Sunday night, May 21st (after Sunday was over), here, in the " Holy City," Friday, 7 p. m., trunks all- right, ticketed from 2sTew York, with but one sight of them, no trouble, no fatigue, plenty of sleep, good enough living — the Tabernacle in view, and the Saints all about. The " Rail " could not do all this, not even the " Pacific " Rail ; but the blessed invention of the sleeping-car rocks one so gently at night, and puts one so gently to sleep, that one is a little fresher, as the morning sun peeps through the windows, than if one slept at home, without the cradling and the motion.

I am ordered off by a doctor for a " trip," a trip only, somewhere, but where, there are no Congresses, no newspapers, no telegraphs, no rails, and I am going to obey, reserving the privilege only of thinking out loud on paper to you — nay, permitted to do nothing else — and I am going to obey that doctor, but just how, or just where, I can't see, though I am going over the Pacific into Asia to see. I should die, after my busy life, with nothing to do ; but this — if your readers will expect nothing else save scribbling — pencil scratching, no fine writing, nothing but a traveller's thoughts out loud, will busy me, kill off idle hours, and, perhaps, amuse you.

Well, when one starts on a journey over, or " around the world," one naturally enough begins to count the first few miles in the twenty-four or twenty-five thousand (more or less, that depending upon deviations to come). The start from New York to Newark was the first count, seven great miles, which left some twenty-four thousand nine hundred and ninety-three to come. This species of arithmetic, however, soon tires one, and the blessed sleeping-car comes to relieve. I waked up among the mountains of Pennsylvania, in the winding gorges of the Alleghanies, near Altoona, where the Chinese gongs sound a terrible rattle for breakfast, and where scenery, as beautiful as cit should see, gladdens his eye, warms his heart, and makes him feel there is something on earth — even if it be Pennsylvania coal and coal-smoke— now and then, more cheering than miles of New York brown-stone or brick and mortar. We flew (a locomotive fly) over the crest of the Alleghanies, by such pretty mountain watering-places as

Cresson ; and at 10.30 A. m. we were in that great inland workshop, Pittsburg, which all of us contribute more or less to build up in the taxes we universally pay. As a stream of freight cars met us, labelled " From Valparaiso toBatavia,"I could not but think at first what a long journey that train is on, from South America to the East Indies, over sea; but when I reflected what hard work it is in this new country to find new names for its ever-springing-up cities and towns, the journey did not seem so long.

There was a dear little woman with us, and she had a dear little baby, and these dear little things were going somewhere "West, to meet some dear big husband, who had rolled up dollars enough to roll them out from their Eastern home, but not dollars enough to spare to tempt him to go out and escort them on. The dear little woman must have air, and would have air, and, this being her first great journey, would look out of open windows. The consequence was, despite the ingenious inventions of the compartment-car, its upper windows, its ventilators, etc., etc., the dear little woman would, and did, cover us all over with dust and cinders. This led me to the reflection, that the car inventors, who are daily inventing all sorts of new things to cheat journeying out of its hardships, and to make it as pleasant as home, should invent a special compartment cage, to cage up dear little women, fresh and green in this journey of life, where they would be themselves all covered up with dirt and cinders, and catch great colds for themselves and their babies, to kill them, perhaps, soon after they reach their husbands.

But if I go on thus " thinking out loud," I shall never get to this, the Holy City, this Mecca, this Jerusalem. The 23d (evening) we crossed the Mississippi, at Davenport (Iowa), where great works and great doings of all kinds are going on. Think of an opera-house there, and big breweries, and two bridges i] here over the stern Father of "Waters. The 24th (morning) we crossed the Missouri, rising and roaring now, and looking like mush. The classic Greeks called such yellow rivers " golden " (vide, the golden jj Pactolus) ; but " mush " is the proper Yankee word for this yellow, turbid, wild, mud-mixed torrent. The [ big piers of the Union Pacific Railroad bridge, sixty y or eighty feet under water, to rock bottom, are fast going down, and the same car that takes us from Chicago over the broad prairies of Illinois and Iowa, can & take us over a bridge, on to the Rocky Mountains of "Wyoming and Utah.

"We are crossing the prairies of Nebraska, and ascending the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains ;, — in a compartment, with an organ in the centre, | from which the musically inclined are grinding ;• out their melodies— in native "Old Hundred" or " Bridgewater " notes, while a Frenchman, an artist, \ of course, bound on to San Francisco, rolls out his fol- , de-rols in thunder squalls, that astound the Pawnee | squaws, and scare up the prairie dogs and antelopes. Everybody that has not seen an Indian, pants to see one, and the first Pawnee that turns up receives

i many a mite — more especially the squaw and the

j papoose slung on her back, from all the romantically

I inclined young women. The classic barbarians here,

! contemptuously call the Indian, " Lo," from Pope's

| " Lo, the poor Indian, whose untutored mind sees God

in clouds, and hears Him in the wind," while all the

Eastern Popes think of him only as Cooper has painted

him, and sympathize with him and his sufferings.

Everybody, too, pants to see a prairie dog— miserable

little squirrel-like wretches, that live in towns (in

towns of holes), and pop up as the cars are coming,

and pop down as the cars come, — or, an antelope (we

are expecting, in vain, though, to breakfast and dine

upon one) or deer, which we often see scampering in

fright over the rocky hills and through the sage brush.

We gather some prairie flowers ; we buy more. All

are very pretty ; and thus car life and prairie life are

charming to such as have not had too much of it.

Car life like ours is a new life, existing only in this country. The sleeping-car with beds and bedclothes is known in no other land, and hence I will tarry by the wayside to think out loud about it. There were seventeen ladies and twenty-seven children in the car that preceded us yesterday, " the steward's" (that's the new name, I think, for the dark-colored young gentleman that " helps " in this craft, and makes up, and makes down, the beds) — but in this car of ours we have only seven little ones, not with mothers to match, though, for one mother owns Rve of the seven. The dark-colored young gentleman, when we order, drops down the upper beds, and pulls out the lower beds, and we tumble in behind the curtains, and strip off our gear as quickly as possible. Some go to bed at 8, and others at 12 p. m., and thus the eight-hour people can be regaled for hours by the stories, the adventures, the secrets, of the twelve-hour people, who have ! four mortal hours to tell all they know. Then, when the train stops to coal, or to water, we hear the gentle outgoing of some near neighbor's fairy breath, 1 or the deep, sonorous snore of some hard sleeper, ' whom some nightmare is harassing. The hours of ) rising are not so irregular as the hours of retiring ; [ for a sort of necessity compels everybody " to get up " \ at once, about six or seven. Then come scenes no mere scribling pencil of mine can exploit, only the light rays of the photographer. From some top-bedchambers, hang out long tresses of hair ; from others, projecting articles of dress; from others, the dangling, pantalooned legs of men — while all, to do all justice, laugh at the miseries and mysteries of the toilette, and make the most and the best of the universal huddle. We wash, as we best can ; and when the gong rattles for breakfast, the most of us rush out, to give the dark-colored young master of the craft his opportunity to clean up, and clear off, the ruins of the night. Some, however, nay many, who cannot afford the dollar breakfast (for that is the price here of every meal), draw forth their lunch-