Our journey around the world; an illustrated record of a year's travel of forty thousand miles...

Front matter

Book _2

Copyright^ .

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.

Chapter I. Our Start — Life On An Ocean Steamer

The Journey Begun — Daily Life on an Ocean Steamer — Always Journeying Homeward — Who is "We" — Taking the Reader into our Confidence — A Parting Look — ' ' God be with You till We Meet Again "

— The " Mariposa" — Our Fellow Passengers — Gambling on Shipboard — Betting on the Day's Run — Where to read "Penny Dreadfuls " — Lord Blank and his Guardian — One Day on a Pacific Steamer

— A Flexible Bath-tub — Something of which there is Enough — At the Dinner Table — Sighing for Home-made Bread and Butter — Wanted, Milk from a Cow instead of from a Tin Can — Mrs. Bostonese Brains — The Tramp, tramp, tramp of the Passengers — Ring-Toss and Shuffle-Board — Sunday on the Ocean, ......... 87

Chapter II

ACROSS THE PACIFIC OCEAN — SAMOA AND THE SAMOANS— NEW ZEALAND'S RUGGED SHORES.

The Joys of Terra Firma — The Playground of America — Bewildering Vegetation — Brown-skinned Divers — Rum and Missionaries — Ten to One — The Future of the Hawaiian — Our Departure — "Fire, Fire"

— Between the Flames and the Sea — An Exciting Race for Life — The Navigators Islands — The First Glimpse — The Samoans as Nature Made Them — Stalwart Oarsmen — On Shore Again — Costumes not from Paris — Babies in Brown Coats — The Great Event of the Month

— A Splendid Race — The Sabbath Day Holy in Samoa — A Kingly Romance — A Royal Salary — Tappa and Kava — An Appetizing Process — Farewell to the Oasis — An Awful Storm — A Mournful Spectre

— Our Frolicsome Companions — A Week without a Wednesday — An Exaggerated English Channel — New Zealand's Stern and Rugged Shores — Goodbye Mariposa, . 50

(xxi)

XXil CONTENTS.

Chapter III. Our Welcome To A New Continent — First Impres- Sions Of Australia

A New Continent — A Magnificent Harbor — Torres' Mistake — The Flight of the Dove — "The Endeavor" — An Important Astronomical Discovery — A Vast Noah's Ark — Great Grandfather Animals — The Bushman and His Fate — What the Savage could not do — Uncertain Rain and Certain Drought — Australian Oddities — Confused Trees — Topsy-Turvyness — Preconceived Notions — The Englishman the World Over — The Evolution of the Yankee Drawl — Colonial Days — " The Great American Desert " — Mother and Daughter — How the Old Lady Treats Her Child — English or American — Architectural Differences — Big Names — " Elevator " or " Lift " — " Barber's Shop " "Tonsorial Palace" — American Inventions in Australia — The Home of Anarchy and Unrest — Country Life versus City Life — The " Bluey" and the " Billy " — The " Larrikin " — A "New Chum " — Modesty Becoming a Literary New Chum 68

Chapter IV

AUSTRALIA AND AUSTRALIANS — INTERESTING MATTERS ABOUT A GREAT COUNTRY — ITS LIFE, ITS CUSTOMS, ITS SCENERY, AND ITS PEOPLE.

The Houses the People Live in — Stone Instead of Wood — An Englishman's Castle — Plenty of Soil — " Strathroy " versus " 1229 E. 341 St."

— "Bacchus, Cestus, Festus" — How They Travel — The Railways — Inside the House — At the Dinner Table — A Pleasant Custom — Scarcity of Cold Water — The Newspapers — Sometimes Dull but Seldom Sensational — Some Budding Poets — Specimen of Obituary Poetry — Outdoor Life — National Games — A Mighty Curse — The Turf Adviser — The Totalisator — Church Life — Great Conventions — The Singing — Cable Absurdities — A Mexican Invasion — Kissing his Wife on the Street — Gum-chewing Girls — Chicago Girls and Boston Maidens — Introducing Friends, 85

CHAPTER V?

AUSTRALIA THROUGH AMERICAN EYES — OUR VISIT TO A GOLD MINE — RISKING LIFE FOR A FRIEND.

An Early Definition — A " Personally Conducted " Trip — A Peaceful Land

— One of its Neighbors — Australia's Only Battle — The Eureka Stockade — Un warlike Weapons — Hot, Hotter, Hottest — Summer the Pre-

CONTENTS. XX111

vailing Season — Ragged and Tattered Trees — A Eucalyptus Country

— Many "Botany Bays" — Imported Pests — A Pugnacious Little Briton — One of Australia's Expensive Problems — The Gentle, Peaceloving Bear — The Kangaroo and the Emu — The Kangaroo's Small Brother — The Laughing Jackass — A Land of Cities — Tales of Political Corruption — An Exploded Boom — Melbourne the Magnificent — Sydney the Picturesque — Adelaide the Lovely — Ballarat the Golden

— Down in a Gold Mine — Getting Ready to Descend — In Motley Array — The Cage — Brave Women — United We Drop — Suppose ! — Everything but Gold — A Brave Miner — Risking Life for a Friend — That Man was a Christian, " 100

Chapter VI

THE CRUISE OF THE CHINGTU—&S INTERESTING VOYAGE IN STRANGE COMPANY — IN THE GOLD FIELDS OF AUSTRALIA.

Beginning Our Log-book — Mrs. Pilgrim's Resolve — The CMngtu — A Unique and Unusual Journey — Our Steamer — Our Stewards — "Loast Beef," " Olange Flittels" and "Lice Cakes" — Preparing for Hot Weather — Our Fellow Passengers — Life in the Steerage — Mr. Ah See and his Wives — Mrs. Ah See Number One — Photographing the Family — The Ruler of the Roost — The Black Fellows — Celestials Returning Home — Taking Home Their Own Bones — The Chinaman at Dinner — A Race of Squatters — The Fan-tan "Layout" — Chinese Passion for Gambling — Within the Barrier Reef — "White Man, He too Salt" — Glittering Gold Fields — How Gold was Discovered in Australia — Nash and His "Find" — "Welcome Strangers" — Gold on Brogans — The Romance of the Morgan Mine — A Visit from a Native Bushman — "Backy, Backy, Backy" — White Ant Hills — Wrecked on a Coral Reef — Thursday Island, 115

Chapter VII

THROUGH LITTLE KNOWN COUNTRIES — LIFE IN THE MA- LAY ARCHIPELAGO — A BATTLE WITH A SNAKE.

All the Days of the Week — A Convenient Nomenclature — A Diet of Sea Worms — Trade in Bloodsuckers — Reminiscences of My Boyhood — A Hideous Delicacy — The Pearl Fishery — Plums in the Pudding — The Pearl Diver's Equipment — A Short but not a Merry Life — A Baking Day and Steamy Night — The Aborigines — In the Celebes Sea — The Connecticut of the South Sea — The Nutmeg at Home — The Possibilities of a Ball of Twine — How the Bride Wore the Trousers — Euro-

XXIV CONTENTS.

pean Clothes and Civilization — A Snake Story — An Unwelcome Guest — Dislodging his Serpentship — A Battle with a Python — The Spicy Breezes — The Noble Work of the Missionary — How the Chief Took the Census — At His Wit's End — A Shrewd Rajah — Some Passengers — Some Members of the Feline Tribe — The Tale of Tortoise-shell Tommj^, 131

Chapter VIII

OUR ARRIVAL IN CHINA — UNFAMILIAR SIGHTS AND NOVEL EXPERIENCES — CHINESE EXECUTIONS — CHINESE FARMS AND FARMERS — DOMESTIC LIFE.

Cosmopolitan Hong Kong — The Cabmen of the Orient — A Ride in a Sedan Chair — Uplifted in Spirit — Sidewalk Shops — Pennsylvania Oil in China — Fairyland under the Lanterns — Incense Offerings to the Gods — Novel Sights and Scenes — Oriental Sharpers — Unblushing Swindlers — Toboggan Sliding — All Aboard for Canton — Justice Swift and Severe — Executions in China — Heads Chopped off with Neatness and Despatch — The River God at the Prow — The Fatshun — River Robbers and Pirates — A Floating Arsenal — The Rice Harvest — Threshing Out the Rice — " Chinaman Makee Glow" — Three Crops in a Season — Water Buffaloes — Christianity and Butter — Up the Pearl River — Junks and Flower Boats, Sampans and Slipper Boats — The High Road of Canton — A Novel Pontoon Bridge — A Family Picture — Cantonese Jade — Off in a Sampan, 148

Chapter IX

IN CANTON THE CROWDED — CHINA AND THE CHINESE. — CURIOUS SCENES AMONG A CURIOUS PEOPLE — IX THE TEMPLE OF HORRORS.

All Cum, Jr. — A Courteous and Faithful Guide — Aimless Wandering — The Birthday of the Fire God — Turning out for a Sedan chair — Close Quarters — A City of Temples — Streets with Odd Names — ' ' Longevity Lane " — " Heavenly Peace Street " — A Changing Panorama — Outrageous Odors — A Pestilential Place without Pestilence — A Puzzle for our Doctors — People who Never Heard of a Plumber — The Live Fish Market — Candy Stands — How Much can you Buy for a Cash? — Going to Market in Corea — A Royal Present — Juvenile Curiosity — That Little "Foreign Devil" — The Cat and Dog Meat Store — The Original of the Willow Pattern — The Five Hundred Buddhists — Marco Polo among the Gods — Lugubrious Buddhist Priests — Worshiping the Gods of Good Luck and Prosperity — Business-like Methods of Worship — The Temple of Horrors — A

CONTENTS. XXV

Necklace of Extracted Teeth — Some of the Tortures — Sawing a Man in Two — Boiled in Oil — Punishments of the Buddhist Hell — The Examination Hall — A Pathetic Spectacle, 164

Chapter X

OUR JOURNEY UP THE GREAT RIVER— THE DAILY LIFE OF A CHINAMAN IN HIS OWN COUNTRY — FAVORITE FOOD AND QUEER DISHES.

An Excursion in a Flower Boat — ' ' Rice Power " — The Stern-Wheeler and its Motive Power — Sacrifices and Perils of the Missionary — A Chinese Feast. — Chop Sticks and How to Use Them — Lamb and Chestnuts — Frogs' Legs and Onions — A Dissipated Prejudice — Shrimps' and Bamboo Root — Our Seventeen Courses — A Chinese Village — A Village School and Schoolmaster — Studying Aloud — A Pot and its Contents — How the Ashes of Grandfathers are saved in China — " Fe, Fi, Fo, Fum, I Smell the Blood of a Chinaman" — Seventeen Dollars for a Child — A Fire-Cracker Factory — How Fire-Crackers are Made — Cheap Wages and Cheap Living — A Chinese Flower Garden — A Mandarin in His Blossom Gown — A Chinese Temple — Waking up the God — Washstands for a God — Lack of Reverence — Fans for Sick Relatives — The Voices of the Night — A Contrast, 179

CHAPTER XL

OUR STAY IN CHARMING JAPAN — SOCIAL CUSTOMS — SOME INTERESTING PERSONAL EXPERIENCES — LIFE AND SCENES ON A TEA PLANTATION.

The Best Preparation for a New Land — A Terrible Typhoon — Personal Experiences — "The Lord is Able to Give Thee Much More Than This" — The Most Beautiful of Mountains — Fujiyama in Spotless Ermine — ' ' Fiery Jack " — Yokohama — The Rush of Jinrikishas — The Capture of the Man-of- War's Men — Fun in the Custom House — " Crossing the Palm" — A Lesson in Japanese Politeness — Bowing in Japanese — The Shop-keeper's Salaam — The Maid Servant's Obeisance Receiving Callers — A Hinge in the Spine — The Ohio Statesman's Mistake — "My Fool of a Wife" — Japanese Railways — Our Fellow Passengers — Progressive Japan — Telegraph Lines and Electric Lights — Postal Delivery Six Times a Day — Protecting the Windows — The Professor's Many Suits — The " Obi" — A Japanese Joseph — What we Saw from the Car Window — A Tea Plantation — ' ' Father's Pride and Mother's Joy " — Thatch-Roofed Farm Houses, 191

XXVI CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

A STROLL AMONG THE MIKADO'S SUBJECTS —EVERYDAY LIFE IN A JAPANESE HOUSE.

Tokio, its Parks, its Temples, and its Palace — Its University — A Study of Fish Parasites — What Missionaries have done — The Seismological Department — An Artificial Earthquake — Exceptional Earthquake Privileges — Wheat and Chaff — Canton and Tokio, or China versus Japan — The Frenchman of the East — A Japanese House — No Doors, No Windows, No Chimneys — A Walk in a Country Village — The Country Bakery — A Rice Mill — Division of Labor — An Initiation into the Art of Orange Eating — The Japanese Shoe Shop — The Villainous Daikon — Prices in Japan — A Pot of Tea for Two Cents — A Japanese Dinner in a Japanese Hotel — The Curious Crowds at the Window — The Motormen of the East — The Hilarious Jinrikisha Men — The Waitress and her Odd Position — Paying our Reckoning, . . . 206

Chapter XIII

OUR EXPERIENCE AT A CEREMONIAL TEA — JAPANESE SOCIAL LIFE — IN THE EMPEROR'S PALACE.

A Ceremonial Tea — "Past Masters " of Politeness — The Emperor's Device — A Dignified Function — A Contest in Politeness — White and Black Charcoal — With Measured Steps and Rhythmic Motion — Building the Fire — The Most Solemn Moment — Our Part in the Ceremony

— No Laughing Matter — Smacking Our Lips — From Tokio to Kioto

— The Garden of the World — Industrious and Careful Farmers — Woman's Rights in Japan — One of Japan's Honored Names — Missionary Life in the East — Flippant "Globe-trotters" — Cheating the Gods — Stone Children with Red Bibs — Conf ucius's Chilly Cult — The Temple of the Three Thousand Gods — Big Gods and Little Gods — Rope Made of Human Hair — How Heavy Timbers were Lifted into Place — Curious Sacrifice of Religious Devotees — In the Emperor's Palace — Osaka, its Mint, its Castle, and its Fish-Market, . . . 230

Chapter XIV

OUR RETURN TO CHINA— THE SEAMY SIDE OF CHINESE LIFE — OPIUM FIENDS AND FAN-TAN GAMBLERS — ODD WAYS OF AN ODD PEOPLE — CURIOUS DISPOSAL OF THE DEAD.

An Obstructing Bar — The Will of Heaven — Almond Eyes and Pigtails

— Noiseless John — How John Chinaman Treats Americans in Shanghai

— Colossal Conceit — The Future of the Celestial Empire — Shoes Two Cents a Pair — A Chinese Grocery Store — Dried Kidneys and Chickens'

CONTENTS. XXV11

Livers — Varnished Pig — Allowable Theft — A Chinese Rice Mill — Arrested Development — How Chinese Paper is Made — Rice Paper — How it is Produced — Woe-begone, Emaciated Faces — The Seamy Side of Chinese Life — " Hitting the Pipe " — Opium Fiends — Fan-tan Gamblers — Intense Excitement — Chinese Music — Unearthly Screeching — Prolonged and Awful Caterwauling — In the Suburbs — Human Beasts of Burden — China and Japan Agriculturally Considered — Rotation of Crops — Novel Ice Harvesting — Fish Farming — An Odd Way of Fishing — The Old, Old Story of Mortality — A Great Funeral — Funeral Baked Meats — Baby Towers of Shanghai, 257

CHAPTEE XV,

A JOURNEY THROUGH TROPIC SEAS — ARRIVAL IN INDIA- NATIVE JUGGLERS, ACROBATS, AND BEGGARS.

A Delightful Voyage — Liquid Fire — The Sacred White Ox — The Gharri

— The "L Road" and the Bullock Bandy — Fan Palms of Singapore — A Tree that Casts no Shadow — How the Bandy Driver Stimulates his Steeds — An Effective Threat — Chewing a Bullock's Tail to make him go — Picturesque Wharf Venders — "Papa Dive" — Scrambling for Nickels — A Walk in Penang — Mangosteens and Jack-fruit — Assafcetida and Onions — The Indian Juggler — A Man with a Gizzard — The Mango Tree Trick and the Girl in the Basket — The Last of the Chinaman — Ceylon's Spicy Breezes — The Waggish Captain's Joke — The Odors of Colombo — A Horrible Combination — The Catamaran — The Two Instincts of the Singhalese — Persistent Shopkeepers — Besieged by Beggars — Baby Merchants and their Wares — The Cinnamon Gardens — An Ancient Turtle — Brawny Barbarism and Miss Nancyism, 279

Chapter XVI

OUR EXPERIENCES IN SOUTHERN INDIA — LIFE IN A MIS- SIONARY BUNGALOW — A PICNIC IN THE JUNGLE.

A Journey with a Bad Reputation — Landing at Tuticorin — Railway Traveling in India — A New Use for a Dirty Sock — Preparing for Hot Weather — House Building in the Tropics — " Give the Sun no Chance "

— Horses under Pith Hats — Barren India — On the Ragged Edge of Famine — Gaunt Starvation — Disputing with the Ants — Buffaloesand Long-legged Goats — A Sunset Scene — A Missionary Bungalow — A Girls' Boarding School — How They Make up Their Beds — An Inventory of a Maiden's Jewels — A Missionary's Manifold Labors — A Picnic in the Jungle — The "Nine Lac Garden" — Serious Duties Again — A Bicycle Story — The Good Devil and his Terrible Bell — "Tell Me Your Name, Good Devil " — Bound in the Shackles of the Caste System — A Brave Brahmin, 294

XXV111 CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII

SOME FAMOUS CITIES OF SOUTHERN INDIA — INDIAN SNAKE CHARMERS, THIEVES AND ROBBERS — FAMOUS IDOLS, TEMPLES AND PALACES.

A Fascinating Land — Gorgeous Heathenism — Tattoo Marks and Sacred Ashes — A Man of the Thief Caste — A Robber Village — Calling the Roll of Thieves — The Thief Middleman — The Women at the Well — The Greasy Fakir — Paying Him for Drifting to Leeward — Blood-curdling Announcements — A Magnificent Temple — Twenty -five Millions of Dollars — Dusty Gods and Goddesses — The Holy of Holies — A Stone Bull in a Stone Bath Tub — The God's Bath — A Beautiful Palace — The Temple, of Tan j are — Filthy Water as a Purifier of Sins — The Last Rajah and His Wives — A Wedding Procession — The Kicking Capacities of an Old Smooth-Bore — Vellore and its Temple — Suspense and Terror — A Brave Rescue — The Gallant Horses — Tippoo Sahib's Relatives — The Madras Hunt — The Punkah Wallah, . 311

Chapter XVIII

ON THE BANKS OF THE SACRED GANGES — HORRIBLE CUS- TOMS—FUNERAL RITES AND WEDDING CEREMONIES.

The Mouth of the Hoogly — A Precaution — From the Parisian to the Pariah — The Great Banyan of the Geographies — Ten Thousand Troops under its Shade — The Burning Ghat — A Sidewalk Barber's Shop — A Ghastly Group — Innumerable Beggars — Religious Parasites

— The Old Fakir's Offering — The Bathers in the Ganges — A Devoted Son — Dying at her Leisure — A Burning Ghat — Decorations after the Bath — Burning the Dead — Hindu Theology — Towers of Silence — Dreary Biers and Hungry Vultures — A Cannibal Feast — The Jews of India — Why They Give their Bodies to the Vultures — The Bondage of Caste — Paying Dear for his Dinners — A Venerable Bridegroom — Match Makers in India — The Stars Favorable and Marriages Frequent

— A Wedding Procession — A Pathetic Mite of a Bride — A Matter-offact Wooer, 335

Chapter XIX

IN THE COUNTRY OF THE GREAT MUTINY — SOME PAGES OF BLOODY HISTORY — HEROES AND HEROINES OF INDIA — MEMORIES OF THE PAST.

Across Northern India by Rail — In an Indian Sleeping Car — Scenes from our Car Window — Storks and Penguins, Monkeys and Jackals — "It is a Beautiful Morning ; Come, Let Us Kill Something " — Defiling a

CONTENTS. XXIX

Peddler's Sweetmeats — A Work of Patience and Diplomacy — An Every Day Conversation in India — The Mecca of the Brahmins — The Monkey Temple — Cawnpore of Bloody Memory — An Awful Page of History — The Angel of Remembrance — Memories of Lucknow — The Gallant Lawrence — Havelock's Troops to the Rescue — The Hero's Grave — The Cannon Ball that Robbed the Mother of Her Babe

— The City of the Taj Mahal — The Mogul's Promise and How He Kept It — "In Memory of an Immortal Love" — The Hand of the Vandal — "Jane Higginbottom " in the Taj — How the Old King Played Parchesi, 353

Chapter XX

OUR VOYAGE ACROSS THE INDIAN OCEAN AND THROUGH THE- SUEZ CANAL — ARRIVAL IN EGYPT.

Some of our Fellow Passengers — Missionaries and Men of Mars — The Little Athletes — Potato Races and Hurdle Jumping — The Red Sea — A Glimpse of Sinai — "And a Half, Eight" — Waiting our Turn — A Huge Jack o' Lantern — A Sight Long to be Remembered — A Stupendous Enterprise — A Great Waterway — Canal Diggers before De Lesseps — In the Canal — Ismalia and her Donkeys — ' ' Yankee Doodle " and "Washy Washington" — Undeniable Desert — A Woman with a Supplementary Nose — Our First Glimpse of the Bedouin — A Family of Arabs — The Land of Goshen — Pharaoh and his Prime Minister — Bricks without Straw — The Fellahin and How They Live — Their Superstitions — " O, Virgin Mary" — "The Sun Do Move" — The Blessings'Brought by John Bull — A' Ghostly Reminder — How They Carry the Babies — "Backsheesh, Backsheesh" — "Oh Sugar for a Nail"— "God Will Make Them Light, Oh Lemons" — The Little "Sons of the River," 370

Chapter XXI

IN THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS — THE MOST WONDER- FUL MUSEUM IN THE WORLD — THE MUMMY OF PHA- RAOH THE OPPRESSOR, AND HOW THE BODY WAS DIS- COVERED—LOOKING INTO PHARAOH'S FACE.

Marvelous Cairo — A Vivacious Traveler — Eyes wanted Before and Behind — A Labyrinth of Lanes — Fashion in a Fez — Madam Grundy in Egypt — At the Sugar Cane Bazaar — A Glimpse of the Khedive — A Boy in a Fez— A Ride to Heliopolis — The Flight into Egypt — The Tree of the Virgin — How the Spider Outwitted Herod — Ancient On — The Only Relic — Joseph's Father-in-Law — Where Joseph was Married

— How are the Mighty Fallen ! — The Most Wonderful Museum in the World — A Room Full of Mummies — Sethi I and Rameses II — Moses'

XXX CONTENTS.

Playfellow — What the Bible says of Him — A Mummy over Three Thousand Years Old — The Pharaoh of the Oppression — Where He was Buried — The Location a Mighty Secret for Centuries — How the Tomb was Discovered in 1881 — Unwinding the Mummy — How Pharaoh Looked — Description of the Body — Its Identity Established — Where is the Pharaoh of the Exodus '? 390

CHAPTEK XXII.

ON THE BANKS OF THE NILE — OUR CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE GREAT PYRAMIDS — BESET BY ARABS — AMUS- ING ADVENTURES AND EXPERIENCES.

An Ancient Proverb — Our First View of the Pyramids — Man-made Mountains — Monuments Which Never Disappoint the Traveler — Could They be Built To-day ? — A Blow at the Conceit of the Nineteenth Century — Comfort for the Optimist — Why the Pyramids were Built and How — The Tombs of the Pharaohs — A Small Pyramid for a Short Reign — A More Intimate Acquaintance — The Road to Cheops- — "Mafish Backsheesh" — Unnecessary Attention — The Comanches of the Desert — An Appeal to the Sheik — Getting Up-stairs — How the Stout Lady Reached the Top — Desolation, .Dearth, and Death — Life-giving Father Nile — Beautiful Cairo — An Ancient Story of the Pyramids — Avaricious Arabs — Destroying the Pyramids — Looking Down on Forty Centuries — A Ride on a Camel to the Sphinx — Boarding the Ship of the Desert — The Ever-watchful One, 417

Chapter XXIII

ALL ABOARD FOR JERUSALEM — JOURNEYING THROUGH THE HOLY LAND BEHIND A LOCOMOTIVE— SCENES AND INCIDENTS BY THE WAY.

A Stormy Day in March — A Test for Brave Hearts and Strong Stomachs — Throwing Up Jonah — Going Ashore at Jaffa — How We Got Down the Ship's Side — Dumping Passengers in the Small Boat — Up to the Ridge Pole and Down the Side of the Great Tent — A Terrible Accident — A Highwayman's Demand — " Your Money or Your Life" — A Near Approach — Unspeakable Filth — The House of Simon the Tanner — Simon's Vat — View from the Housetop — Our Rural Friend from New York State — "Them Jimkirridges " — Through the Holy Land Behind a Steam Engine — The Sentimental Man — The Reward of Indulging a Sentiment — Our Dragoman — How Abdallah Caught the Doctors Napping — When the Sun and the Moon Stood Still — The Dapper Conductor in His Red Fez — The Rose of Sharon, . . . 435-

CONTENTS. XXXI

Chapter XXIV

"JERUSALEM, JERUSALEM"— OUR SOJOURN IN THE LAND* OF SACRED STORY -INTERESTING SCENES AND TOUCH- ING MEMORIES.

The Brakeman's Announcement — Incongruous Modernism — Entering Jerusalem — Thronging Emotions — " The Joy of the Whole Earth " — A Walk within the Walls — The Modern City — A Pathetic Story — Plunging into the Heart of the City — The Various Shops — Silverware from Damascus — Shy lock in Jerusalem — A Suggestion of White-Caps — The Camel and His Sneering Underlip — Water-Carriers and their Goat Skins — The Dignified Syrian — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre — A Checkered History — The Short Triumph of the Crusaders — The Stone of Unction — A Touching Bible Story — Vulgar Facts — Measuring the Stone for Their Winding Sheet — Our Lord's Tomb — The Great Unwashed — How Adam Came to Life — The Cleft in the Rock — An Impressive Spectacle — A Disgraceful Easter Scene — '■ An Awful Accident, 447

Chapter XXV

FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF OUR LORD — A MEMOR- ABLE WALK — LIFE AND SCENES IN THE HOLY CITY.

The Via Dolorosa — Fourteen Stations on the Way to the Cross — St. Veronica and "Her Handkerchief — Some Touching Inscriptions — Outside the Gates — Our Golgotha — " The Green Hill Far Away." — Gethsemane — The Stone of Treason — A Wonderful View — Our Lord's Broken- Hearted Lament — The Russian Tower — The Dead Sea — A Marvelous Mirror — Absalom's Tomb — The Fate of an Unfilial Reprobate — The cave of Adullam — Nebo and Its Lonely Grave — The Village of Mary and Martha — The Greatest Miracle of the Ages — " Dis Way to de Tomb of Lazaroos " — The Wretched Inhabitants of Modern Bethany — The Tomb of Rachel — Where Our Lord was Born — The Marble Cradle — An Impressive Sight — Wrangling Christians — Turkish Guards at Our Lord's Cradle — A Sad Suggestion, 469

Chapter XXVI

WITHIN AND AROUND " THE DOME OF THE ROCK"— CURIOUS TRADITIONS AND PATHETIC SCENES.

The Mosque of Omar — A Rock of Wonderful Traditions — Abraham's Sacrifice — Our Retinue — Mohammed's Broomstick Ride — The Wily Jew and the Pilgrim — The Wise Judge — The Marvelous Iron Chain

XXX11 CONTENTS.

of Justice — A Wily Jew — Our Slippers and How We Kept Them On — Our "Humbug" Sheik — The Great Rock — The Stone of Kails — How the Devil Drew Them Out — An Easy Way of Buying Heaven — A Rock Which Rests on Nothing — How Gabriel Held It Down — The Way to Paradise — What the Pilgrim Found in the Well — Hairs from the Beard of Mohammed — The Stables of Solomon — The Place of Final Judgment — Startling and Curious Traditions — The Wailing Place — Real Grief — A Squalid Scene — The Old Pharisee and His Lovelocks — A Sad Litany — A More Joyful Keynote — A Marvelous Race, 488

Chapter XXVII

IN THE HOME OF SAINT PAUL — THE FAMOUS CEDARS OF LEBANON — OUR EXPERIENCES IN THE LAND OF THE SULTAN — AT THE MERCY OF INHOSPITABLE TURKS.

Embarking at Jaffa — Americans in Syria — Their Splendid College — An Interesting Room — The Beginning of Our Tribulations — A Turkish Custom House — Forbidden Words — The Sapient Censor — A School Boy's Composition and What Came of it — The Use of Ironclads — An Ill-Starred Rebellion — " No Mean City" — St. Paul's Well — Drawing Water from It — St. Paul's Tree — St. Paul's Institute — Humble Streets — A Walk to the Vali's Palace — "Palace" or "Sheds"? — In the Presence of His Excellency — "The Bouyourouldou " — Official Handwriting — A Sunday in Adana — A Living Screen — A Congregation of Fezzes — Squatting on the Floor — How to Pack a Congregation — Turks and Armenians — "Is America on a Hill ? " — Preparing for our Overland Journey, 504

Chapter XXVIII

A REMARKABLE JOURNEY ACROSS ASIA MINOR IN A SPRING WAGON — THRILLING EXPERIENCES BY THE WAY — A DANGEROUS RIDE.

An Imposing Cavalcade — Foolish "Franks" — An Arsenal of Archaic Weapons — Ali, the Turk — Anastas, the Errand Boy — "Meat" — Entrancing Scenery — Snow-capped Lebanon — The Road of Paul and Cicero — Eloquent Ruins — Our Fellow Travelers — Caravans of Camels — The Patient Donkey — Pleasant Salutations — " Bereket Versin " — "May the Almighty Cling to your Hand" — The Motto of the Spoons

— The Story of the Dervish — The Holy Ass — A Chip of the Old Block

— Keeping Off the " Evil Eye " — " You Dirty Brat " — A Fond Mother's Salutation — The Mother-in-Law in Turkey — A Typical Turkish

CONTENTS. XXX111

Khan — Sharing a Bed with the Camels — Through the Cilician Gates — The "Bad Five Miles" — How We Held the Wagon Crossing the Taurus Mountains — In the Guest Room of Selim, 525