Seven years of a sailor's life

Front matter

W

Xp v -ay

CX %

Chapter I. 11-18

My Birth — Early Longings for the Sea — Warnings Unheeded — Boats and Books — Leaving School — My First Voyage — On Board — The Cook Reckons — Ship Work — The Coast of the Eastern States — Classes of Men and Occupations — Fishing and Coasting — The Sailors' Mission — "Nothing to Laugh at" — Death of the Steward — Home Again — Sea Togs Laid Aside.

Chapter II 19-27

At a Trade — "He will never make a Printer" — Discontent on Shore — Another Voyage in View — My Joy at its Height — Shipped Again — The " Guide " and her Crew — Don't be so fast, Ned — The Landlord's Attentions — Getting under Way — Off for Zanzibar — Farewell, Yankee-Land — In the Gulf — Sea Sick, but not sick of the Sea — A Squall — Land, Ho — The Gatamaran — Crossing the Line — Rough Usage — Baptized in a Tub and made a Son of Neptune — I can't see it — The "Line " seen through a Spy Glass — The "Great Republic" right ahead, Sir — Off the Cape — The Albatross and Cold Weather— The Cape safely doubled.

Chapter III. 28-3T

Mozambique Channel — Hove to — The Signal — The Pilot on Board — A Joke that was not a Joke — Unloading — A Yankee Among the Sharks — A Mutiny Planned — "Forewarned is Forearmed — Watching for the First Move — The Attempt at Midnight — The Struggle — The Arrest — All Right Again — A Jaunt on Shore — The Jetty — Mozambique and its People — Cocoa Nut and Palm Trees — Ready for a Start.

Contents

Chapter IY. . . 38-46

Ho for Zanzibar — Charming Weather and Scenery — Pilot Fish and Johnny Shark — The Island in View — " Under the Sand " — Harbor Scenes — A Pull for the Shore — Dress and Manners — A Fearful Weapon — " Old Sides " and his Pet Boys — A Visit to the Shell Shops — Oddities and Curious Sights — Buying Monkeys

— Slave Market at Zanzibar — Ten Dollars a Head — A Man with Fifty Wives — Rough Sport — Sails set for Aden — Passengers Received — Underway.

Chapter I

My Birth — Early Longings for the Sea — Warnings Unheeded — Boats and Books — Leaving School — My First Voyage — On Board — The Cook Reckons — Ship Work — The Coast of the Eastern States — Classes of Men and Occupation — Fishing and Coasting — The Sailors' Mission — "Nothing to Laugh at" — Death of the Steward — Home Again — Sea Togs Laid Aside.

FIRST saw the light of day as I was tossed and tumbled in the nurse's arms, in an unpretending edifice situated on Winter Street, Salem, Massachusetts, and having escaped the thousand ills that young tuggers encounter, was kept to the school-room, and other similar institutions until my soul was sick of books, music, and dancing. I saw pleasure only in the water, and sketching little pictures of vessels in various positions. Anything in the shape of a boat was my fond delight.

The best opportunities for mental improvement were thrown away, and my time was spent in making and rigging little models, and learning the different rig on the many kinds of craft that lined the docks. I learned to row dories, shift sails, scull boats, and expose myself to all sorts of dangers at an early period.

The warnings of my parents were unheeded, and as my father was full of business, he could spare but little time to look after the roaming propensities of his wayward son. The ocean was the only path to my El Dorado. The fair lands I read and dreamed of laid beyond the broad blue belt of water, and at last, at fever height, visions of salt water charms overpowered me.

At fifteen we are headstrong, and know too much. The dangers of the ocean may be pictured to us in all their awful majesty, and men of experience who have braved the blazing sun of the tropics, and the towering masses of ice, in the depths of an Arctic winter, may recount their perils and the dangers they have met, and yet the buoyant young mind is unsatisfied. " I must see these things myself; why cannot I undergo the perils that others have," are the delusive thoughts that plunge too many young men into a life-long misery. I state my own ideas on this subject ; no one is responsible for the sufferings of those who scorn good advice and thrust their heads into the lion's jaws.

I left school, and by the kindness of Captain H ,

an old friend of the family, planted my chest and myself on the deck of the " Invincible," an old-fashioned fore-and-after, bound on a lumber and coaling trip. I went for my health, and to gain an insight into the mysteries of sailor life. Good-byes were said, the little company on the pier saw the vessel leave the harbor under a pile of canvas, and myself busy on the quarter catching the " tinker mackerel " that rippled the water about the vessel. The day was lovely, the wind fair, and at length catching the smell of pork frying out, I went down into the forecastle used for the galley, and there found the cook, a brawny, carrotty-headed Yankee, preparing dinner. How my tender sensibilities were touched to see him bake bread, cook meat, and squirt tobacco juice, indulging in a tremendous oath if everything did not jibe to suit him. I soon returned to the deck, and saw the land gliding away astern. Dinner was quickly dispatched, the men were told off into watches, and before supper time, I began to feel quite easy. The cook with a grin said to the mate, " The youngster has not come to his milk yet, but I reckon he has gingerbread stowed in his chest to last a month," the truth of which reckoning I soon disproved by telling him I had no kind of an appetite, whereupon he kindly recommended a pint of salt water, or a piece of pork on a string.

I could not get the style of walking a crack, when the vessel was rolling rail under, but as for climbing a spar I equalled any on board, having practiced the art many months before I had a chance to go to sea. I was taught to steer, reef, and make myself useful, " for the sake of your health and to teach you," was the captain's every-day exclamation. The mate filled my head and hands with 'prentice sailor work ; splicing, tying knots, and bowlines, turks-head, double and single walls, crowns, Martha and other Walker's knots, turning in and ridding were given me for practice.

The coast of the Eastern States is for the most part rocky and bold. During each of the many times I have run in from sea, I knew the exact locality of the vessel, whether off the sands of Cape Cod, the bold shores of Maine fringed with waving pines, the dark grass-covered headlands of Boston Bay, or the low, well-cultivated shores of Connecticut, the gaping rents in Rhode Island's border, or the sloping islands in Vineyard Sound. The lights of many colors were stamped upon my memory, and as the swift vessel rushed through the water, and I stood in midnight solitude at the wheel, I could fasten my gaze upon the exact spot, where home and friends all were, and became familiar with the twinkling lights up and down the coast. How often I have thought, as my eye watched the vessel's head, of what the folks might be doing at home.

And here was I, deep-loaded, winged out, and ofttimes flying before the winter blast, about a cannonshot from the glowing fire, the well-spread table, and the pleasures of home. This trip was to me a merry voyage. We could read and sleep on deck, and every time the anchor was down, and the cotton furled, we could slip into the boat and go ashore. There are many classes of men to encounter in a summer's trip along our shores, — the heavy ships, the coasters, carrying all kinds of merchandize, from the little tenton boat, to the three-master, the pilot boats and their noble, brave crews, the dashing mackerel " killer," gentlemen's yachts, long white steamers that beat the water into foam, and swiftly bear the gay or sorrowing passengers to their respective places ; the heavy, well-manned " banker," flying colors and salt wet; the revenue cutters, trim and taut, lying ready for service ; the huge man-of-war, as she glides away with heavy sails well-handled by a disciplined crew ; the long black propeller, deep with freight, and the marketboats and jiggers bearing their burdens to please the tastes and appetites of the residents of the great cities. And all these hundreds of craft are manned by men " who go down to the sea in ships." These thousands of men peril life and limb, and lead the hardest life of toil and privation, working day and night, traversing the ocean to make the landsmen happy, to increase their wealth and to enable them to luxuriate in the products of all climes and people. All that is imported or exported passes through their hands. They brave the dangers of every zone for scanty pay, and often meagre fare. The whale is pursued to regions of eternal snow ; the isles of the Indies and Polynesia bow their cocoa-covered tops in obeisance to the enterprise of Yankee men. The continents are connected by electric wires, the products of every country beneficial to mankind are rolled up to our shores by sailor hands. And when the nation's life is at stake, a living wall of Yankee -sailors rises like a mighty bulwark against a foreign foe. At sea they do their duty, and on shore they are happy, and ready for any good work or hazardous undertaking. All honor to the generous, noble seamen, whether they are in small or large vessels.

A month had passed pleasantly. The lumber was discharged at the pier in Stonington, after which we had a chance to look around us. We watched with interest the huge steamers coming and going, and with wonder the engines, whose ponderous workings drove the leviathans along. The numerous watermelons, the baggage, the porters, and the tugs that flew up and down the river, were, to my young mind, full of interest.

Near the " Plymouth Rock " lay a small steamer whose captain and crew essayed to pull up the steep gangway plank a load of trunks on a wheelbarrow. The rope was bent on, the captain and men tugged the .heavy pile nearly to the wharf, a negro pushing behind with sweaty brow, and all his power. The hands and passengers on the large steamer watched with some degree of merriment this novel way of discharging the luggage, when, as their most sanguine hopes were about to be realized, the slender rope parted, and in a confused mass went negro, luggage, and all. The captain who had hold of the end of the rope, fell under the shore party, and as the screams of wild laughter accompanied the accident, he managed to rise from the heap of tumbled-down men. Holding one hand on his injured part, he shook the other at the passengers and shouted, — " Laugh you cusses, laugh ; but I tell you it ain't anything to laugh at." His passion Cooled, when the men passed the luggage up by hand, and' he made a* promise never to work in such a lazy way again.

We hauled out that evening, and with a fair wind and clear sky ran to New York, passing through the so-called Hell Gate, and anchored off the Battery. After lying there three days, we sailed down the Jersey shore, and entered the Delaware Bay. Taking advantage of the tides, we soon reached Philadelphia, and lay off the pier at Richmond, that great coal depot of Pennsylvania, to be ready at a moment's notice to haul in and receive our return cargo.

To a stranger the " city of friends " is a deep and interesting study. The neat squares and streets, the water-works, ferries, the shipping, markets, and coal wharves, were to us continual sources of interest. Our steward here went off on a spree, and on his return, I saw that he had more liquor than commonsense aboard his craft. I advised him to stay on the wharf until he could be brought to the vessel. Yet he heeded not my words, but stepping into the boat, lost his balance, and fell headlong into the river. There were many people on the wharf, yet he sank to the bottom so suddenly that no one could help him.

This was the first man I had seen drown, and the occurrence made more of an impression on my mind than any of the numerous deaths I subsequently witnessed. I thought of his aged mother, and her grief to lose her only boy, and firmly determined to set my face against liquor and the rum traffic from that day on. Rum ! 0, horrid curse ! the insinuating Devil, that drags his victim surely along the high road to destruction. Even should the palsied hand refuse to take the cup, and the bleared eyes see no more the serpent-charm at the bottom, the ruined man clings to the old enemy, until, it may be, a flash of reason 2 expels the dark viper that has been gnawing at his heart for months and years.

Our vessel hauled to Pier No. 14, and loaded, the coal coming into the hold a car-load at a dump. The half-naked trimmers, with their flat " trimming boards," leveled the cargo, the decks were swept clean, and the next day we sailed for home. Nothing of interest occurred. The fine weather we enjoyed ; the fair wind wafted us safely over the shoals, the run was a good one, and as I grasped the wheel and shot the deep-loaded craft with her sails down to her berth, I felt in better health and strength than ever before, and vastly improved in my knowledge of life and its duties. " Home again ;" and as the light wagon rattled over the pavements, a feeling of regret came upon me at the thought of leaving the companions of my three months' trip, and my first sea-life experience. But so it must be, and reluctantly laying aside my sea togs, I prepared myself to engage in new scenes of life on shore.

Chapter II

At a Trade — " He will never make a Printer " — Discontent on Shore — Another Voyage in View — My Joy at its Height — Shipped Again — The " Guide " and her Crew — Don't be so fast, Ned — The Landlord's Attentions — Getting under Way — Off for Zanzibar— Farewell, Yankee-Land — In the Gulf — Sea-Sick, but not sick of the Sea — A Squall — Land, Ho — The Catamaran — Crossing the Line — Rough Usage — Baptized in a Tub and made a son of Neptune — I can't see it — The ''Line" seen through a Spy Glass — The " Great Republic " right ahead, Sir — Off the Cape — The Albatross and Cold Weather — The Cape safely doubled.

IP HE cold weather was fast approaching, and my parents wisely kept me from school, and sent me to learn the art of printing. I soon became disgusted with composing, distributing, and working the hand press. The foreman noticed my uneasiness. The work was at best irksome to me, and at last the old gentleman was informed, " Ned will never make a printer." I was quick fingered, quick of eye, and could pick up type fast enough, but, as they all said, I would never make a printer.

They next procured for me a good situation in a store. This was better, for I learned to trade in many things and made many young friends. But as Capt.

H , spent a day with our family, I overheard him

remark, that the " Guide" was soon to be off for Zanzibar, having most of the cargo on board and crew shipped. This was my chance. Here I found my long sought for opportunity to take a voyage to the shores of Africa. I therefore quickly obtained the situation of cabin boy and steward, and as the cook was an old friend of mine, I knew I should succeed in my vocation. I cared not for wages ; I had everything a young sailor could wish for, and this is a great fault, — carrying too many garments and too much luggage, when one half of the quantity is far preferable.

I had a view of the barque before I signed articles, and found her a fine-looking craft in every respect. None of the crew were on board, for they had no idea of leaving the shore until the last moment. I spent the afternoon at Griffin's, with my shipmates soon to be. They were dressed with care, their hair shining with oil, or tucked neatly under their glazed caps. All were sober and looking finely. How many of that band of fine young men ever stood again under that awning, or lounged on the blue-painted sea chests ? Did ever one receive a shake of the hand, a farewell kiss, or a lump of the best tobacco from that sidewalk again ? I longed to be off. They longed to stay, and loaf it out a few days longer.

" Don't you be so fast to leave home, Ned. You will be a darned sight faster to get back to it again."

" Yes," said another, as he took the fragrant cigar from his mouth, " She is a gay boat and hunkey in every strand, but there is no place like home, if it is a shell-back's lodging house. Hey, Eb ? "

They agreed to be on hand at daylight, and then paired off to have their last night on shore.

The landlord packed their kits, slipping little comforts in the corners, in the shape of slender jugs of whiskey, pounds of the weed of James' River, and charging a round price for all these little favors. I walked the street till the bell struck nine, and then retired to my room to meditate and rest. My parents and friends in the next city I had some thought of, but what engrossed my direct attention was, the coming voyage. Would I not be smart and willing, and win my way up to maritime favor ? I had the lesson by heart, of civility to all ; kindness, daring and cheerfulness were also essential.

At the break of clay I stood on the walk, and found half of the crew assembled. We had a rousing good breakfast, and then started under the guidance of the mate to drum up the more backward ones. They were soon called together, but would run into every friend's house and get their farewell tod of whiskey as they went along. The morning w as cold and clear, and by the time the crew had turned the head of the wharf, many of them were full of liquor. Their sweethearts and friends gave them a hearty hug as they stepped into the boats, and then they laid to the oars with a will, and were soon at the side of the barque that lay at anchor in the stream. The men's chests were on the deck, and were quickly transferred to the forecastle. Off came jackets and extra clothing, and the crew jumped to their duties. It made me stare, to see those same young men who reeled down the wharf wild with liquor, spring into the rigging and run up with the agility of cats, lay out on the tapering yards and loosen the topsails, knowing exactly when and what to do, and civil to the officers. At the word, the canvas hung in wavy folds, and the gear was well overhauled. Down the rigging they leaped, and to the windlass brakes. Then as they felt the old emotion, that they were at every stroke of the brakes slowly parting their last hold on Yankee land, they broke forth in a chanting that made the sleepy crews of the numberless coasters turn out in quick time. " 0, Riley, 0," " Whiskey for my Johnny," and the loud toned " Storm along, my Rosa," woke the echoes far and near. The rising sun seemed glad at the lively scene. The anchor was drawn from its oozy bed ; the topsails sheeted home, and away went the " Guide," the last tie severed, and moving like an albatross over the ruffled water. Light sail were loosed and set, and as the freshening breeze drove us down the harbor at a flying rate, the hills covered with a coat of emerald green, were fast passing from our sight, perhaps forever. The cool April wind fanned our heated faces as we cast a long, lingering look upon the land of home, friends, liberty and equality. Too well we now realized that an eventful voyage had began.

On, like a racer dashed the clipper, the sana hills of Cape Cod being on our weather-quarter at set of sun. It was here we took a point of departure. The Nor'-Wester held good in our favor, and in three days' time frcm leaving home we had crossed the " gulf." Here we had a touch of rough weather, but we passed safely through. I was down with sea-sickness, and the officers, at my own desire, allowed me my own way, I knew if I gave up I should feel worse for so doing, and when my head sank on my breast, I staggered up and down the drenched deck, until I felt better. " Never say die," said the mate, cheerily.

" Hang to her, my bold townie," said the men, and after a few days I could walk a crack on deck, no matter how hard the vessel pitched and rolled. I conquered the sickness forever. Three days of reefing and banging about the " gulf," was a sufficiency. I was heartily pleased when the gale abated and the glorious sun poured his refulgent rays over the storm-lashed sea. We saw no friendly sail to cheer our vision. The gulf weed lay on the water in yellowish brown masses. The weather was lovely, the wind light and baffling, and the clear blue ocean could be gazed into, fathoms below the surface. The first little world that came wafting along over the limped sea, was the barque " Ionia," of Boston, bound in, from the West Coast of Africa. Greetings were exchanged and papers put aboard. She soon passed from our view, and again we ploughed the trackless sea, under a clear, warm sky.

We were now in the track of homeward bound vessels from the West Indies, and many an English vessel we spoke, as the heavy craft lumbered along under all the sail it could spread, with its rich cargo of sugar, molasses, dyewoods, and other productions of the tropics. How pleasant it is to the sailor to meet these passing sails, as they move like things of life along the trackless path, the unerring compass guiding them safely on their way.

The weather was very warm. The sun's rays beat in fiery strength on our parched decks, — a number of the men keeping them wet down. Every shaded place was eagerly sought. The tar dropped from the rigging ; the paint blistered everywhere. Every piece of brass was so heated that it burned the naked hand. Every one was clothed in the thinnest garments he could muster. Even the tough and active bull-dog was content to lie still then. The cook jumped into one door of his galley, looked at the dinner cooking, and jumped through the other open door. Hot ! well, we thought it was.

All kinds of tropic fish were plenty. The men lounged in the shade of the forward sails, and grained the dolphin and bonitas. Vast schools of flying fish rose from the water, and as the hot sun dried their wings, they fell into the jaws of the hungry dolphins, that followed them like flashes of light, or the watchful sea-bird pounced upon them from mid-air, and bore his prize away, glittering like silver in the clear, hot air.

At night the starry firmament revealed to us the beautiful " Southern Cross," and an occasional red meteor speeding on its unknown path. The wake of the vessel was like a track of white fire, as it gleamed in the dark star-lit sea. The binnacle light revealed the trusty man at the wheel, as he guided the huge fabric through the wide-swelling waters. On some nights there was a dash of rain, and all hands were turned out in quick time to stand by for squalls. Finally a severe one burst in a fitful gust upon us ; the wet, heavy sails were clewed up safe and snug ; the barque rushed on like a mad whale, while the fury of the squall lasted, and when it had passed over, was left courtesying and rolling in the wake of the elements.

The island of Fernando de Norona was sighted, and one of the crew swore that a " Catamaran," or native boat was pulling off to us ; but as the glass of the officer could not discover the boat, it was regarded as a hoax. The crew were up to some kind of fun : I knew it by the way they manoeuvred, and on the Fourth of July, a hoarse voice under the bow suddenly cried out :

" Have you got any of my children aboard this boat?"

"Aye, aye, sir," was responded from the fore-top; and at that moment a huge monster, clad like Old Nep, appeared over the knight heads. All the uninitiated tried to run away from the crew that had prepared to see the fun. Strong arms brought the green ones, myself in the number, to the forward deck. Large tubs of water just drawn from the ocean stood near by. I saw all the paraphanalia of Father Neptune with some misgivings, and meekly resigned myself to his hands. I was told to answer the questions he might put to me, and after being shaved with a rusty hoop, and made to swallow a quart of salt water, which they poured down the speaking trumpet, they let me go — first baptizing me in one of the tubs of water — and with a slap between the shoulders that nearly made me lose my breath, proclaimed me a " Son of Neptune." The other young men were put through the ordeal in a manner that went against their grain. They struggled, kicked and swore to no purpose. Young Smith narrowly escaped strangulation, and Welch, of the port watch?, was lowered over the vessel's side. My fears were aroused for his safety, but he was soon drawn aboard, alive and well, and strong enough to tear the venerable Neptune's head-gear from him when released, which he did, with a considerable degree of satisfaction.

We were then allowed to see the line, and of course soon exclaimed, " We can't see it." At this the kindhearted mate handed us the spy-glass, and to our astonishment we saw the line. It was a hair drawn across the lens of the glass. We were all satisfied, and the captain spliced the main brace. I was laughed at for not drinking on the " Glorious Fourth," but I remembered my pledge, and kept it. We now had the " Trades," and bowled it off in fine style direct for the Cape of Good Hope. The ship " Great Republic " came sweeping toward us under a pile of canvas. How noble that stately ship appeared, dancing over the sparkling sea. The four masts seemed a curious rig to me, and I lost no time in making a sketch of her as she passed across our bows.

We saw no more vessels until we neared the Cape, where we sighted a whaler far to leeward, jogging along under reefed topsails. The days had grown extremely short. Lamps were lighted and supper eaten at three o'clock in the afternoon. All unnecessary work was suspended, and the men were glad of the opportunity to sit around and spin yarns, keep comfortable, and only work the sails. The best of hot food, chocolate and coffee, were served out in our rations, and we took solid comfort as we doubled the Cape of Good Hope. The month of August is very cool in these low latitudes, and pea-jackets, thick boots and mittens come into use.

The mighty Albatross wheeled in circles in mid-air, or darted like the rush of a cannon ball to the water when they caught sight of a morsel of waste food floating in the angry wake of the barque. The pretty Cape pigeons fluttered around the hull. The goney and booby perched on the bare upper spars. Plenty of porpoises darted under the sharp cutwater, or were brought, flapping, to the deck, with the firm bowline clasping their tails. Two of the albatross were taken with a long line and hook. One bird measured thirteen feet from tip to tip of his wings. The smaller bird measured eleven feet. These noble birds were soon despatched, the bull-dog having a terrible fight with the larger one, before his proud head sank to the deck. Many " curioes," were made from these birds, and the great unsightly carcasses thrown overboard. At length the captain gave the order to " fall off a couple of points." We had safely doubled the Cape.