Front matter
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Preface
The family and more intimate friends of Mr. Weed have been frequently applied to for his Letters from Europe and the West Indies. But no extra copies of them were ever printed, and it has, therefore, been impossible to comply with these requests. To meet this difficulty, and to gratify those whose long intimacy with Mr. Weed gives weight to their wishes, these Letters have been collected and are embodied in this volume.
This is done without Mr. Weed's knowledge, who modestly shrinks from the dignity of a bookmaker, and who has never believed that these Letters deserved any more prominent or permanent position than was originally given them in the columns of the Evening Journal. No one will be more surprised than himself to see them in their present form; but those who can place a more correct estimate upon their interest and value than their author, have taken the responsibility, and thousands who have long desired to have this disposition made of them will be pleased.
The Letters were written during Mr. Weed's visit to Europe in 1843 and in 1852, and to the West Indies in iv Preface.
1845. They are given just as they were hastily written and originally published. To have altered them in the least would have robbed them of their inimitable sprightliness, freshness and geniality. Those who read them when first written will enjoy their reading again ; and those who will now read them for the first time will concur in the universal verdict, that no man writes better letters than Mr. Weed.
Index
FROM EUROPE, 1843.
PAGE.
Letter I. Packet ship George Washington, at sea, June 21, 1843 1
II. Packet ship George Washington, at se£, June 23, 1843 9
III. Courtmaesherry, Ireland, June 28, 1843, ■ 19
IT. Dublin, July 1, 1843, 27
V. Dublin, July 3, 1843, 39
TI. Liverpool, July 5, 1843, 46
Til. Liverpool, July 7, 1843 57
Till. London, July 8, 1843, 66
IX. London, July 12, 1843 76
X London, July 14, 1843, 86
XII. London, July 19, 1843, 105
XIII. London, July 21, 1843, 117
XIT. London, July 22, 1843, 126
XTI. Bristol, July 27, 1 843 1 43
XVII. Belfast, August 3, 1843, 152
XVIII. Greenock, August 5, 1843, 161
XIX. Glasgow, August 7, 1843, 170
XX. Glasgow, August 9, 1843 178
XXI. Edinburgh, August 9, 1843 185
XXII. Melrose (Scotland), August 13, 1843, 196
XXIII. London, August 24, 1843 207
XXIT. Dublin, August 2, 1843 214
XXT Melrose, August 13, 1843 221
XXVI. London, August 24, 1843, 233
XXVII. Paris, September 16, 1843, 244
XXVIII. On board steamer London Merchant, August 27, 1843 247
XXIX. London, August 25, 1843, 251
XXX. Havre, August 29, 1843, 259
XXXI. Paris, September 1 6, 1843 269
XXXII. Paris, September 20, 1843, 279
XXXIII. Paris, September 23, 1843, 288
XXXIV. Paris, September 25, 1843, 295
XXXV. Antwerp, October 14, 1843 304
XXXVI. Paris, September 27, 1843 307
FROM THE WEST INDIES, 1844-45.
Letter I. At sea, November 27, 1844, 315
II. St. Croix, W. L, December 24, 1844, 325
III. St. CroLx, W. I., December 30, 1844 329
VI INDEX.
PAGE.
Latter IV. St. Croix, "W. I., January 6, 1845, 335
VI. Santa Cruz, W. I., January 10, 1 845, 351
VII. St. Thomas, W. I., January 15, 1845, 360
. VIII. Santa Cruz, W. I., January 31, 1845, 366
IX. Santa Cruz, W. I, February 24, 1845 374
X. Santa Cruz, W. I, February 27, 1845, 383
XI. Santa Cruz, W. L, March 20, 1845 391
XII. Santa Cruz, "W. I, April 3, 1845, 399
FROM EUROPE, 1851-52.
Letter I. Steamer Baltic, Dec. 6, 1851, 407
II. London, December 9, 1851 414
III. Folkstone, December 13, 1851, 422
IV. Boulogne, December 14, 1851, 426
V. Paris, December 21, 1851, 431
VI. Paris, December 29, 1851, 436
VII. Paris, January 2, 1852, 442
VIII. Paris, January 5, 1 852, 446
IX. Paris, January 8, 1852, 450
X. Avignon, January 14, 1852, 457
XL Marseilles, January 15, 1S52, 463
XII. Nice, January 19, 1852, 469
XIII. San Remo, January 21, 1852, 476
XIV. Genoa, January 27, 1852, 482
XV. Genoa, January 24, 1852, 496
XVI. Genoa, January 27, 1852, 500
XVII. Florence, February 4, 1852, 506
XVIII. Florence, February 5, 1852, 513
XIX. Naples, February 16, 1852 521
XX. Naples, February 20, 1852, 528
XXI. Naples, February 21, 1852, 535
XXII. Baije, March 5, 1852, 543
XXIIL Naples, March 12, 1852 549
XXIV. Rome, March 23, 1852, 554
XXVI. In the Appenine Mountains, April 20, 1852, 568
XXVII. Ferrara, April 23, 1852, 573
XXVIII. Venice, April 26, 1852, 577
XXIX. Trieste, April 28, 1852, 582
XXX. Vienna, May 1, 1852, 588
XXXI. Vienna, May 8, 1852 595
XXXII. Vienna, May 9, 1852 599
XXXIII. Prague, May 11, 1852, 603
XXXIV. Dresden, May 12, 1S52 608
XXXV. Leipsic, May 15, 1852 616
XXXVI. Brussels, May 20, 1852 624
XXXVII. London, June 15, 1S52 629
XXXVIII. London, June 18, 1852, 637
XXX TX . London, June 18, 1852, 642
LETTERS.
i.
PACKET SHIP GEORGE WASHINGTON, &
At Sea, June 21st, 1843.
Having paid the Landsman's tribute (sea sickness) to Neptune, I am now sufficiently recovered to get on Deck in pleasant weather and enjoy fresh air and sea views.
We have been " afloat " fourteen days, with light but favorable winds. We are about 2,400 miles from New York and only some 800 miles from Liverpool ! This enumeration of miles seems formidable to one who has been accustomed to run either to New York with Captains McLean or Beainaed, or to Utica, Auburn or Rochester upon the Railroad.
The Passage so far has been auspicious. The ship has been headed directly to Liverpool from the moment she was put upon her course, and except for two or three hours, in what threatened to be a Gale, the large sails have not been taken in.
When the kind and beloved friends who accompanied us down the Bay had, on their return to the city, passed out of the reach of my strained vision, we fixed our eyes upon the receding shores, until object after object grew first indistinct and then disappeared. Long before twilight all the traces of Land had faded away. We continued to cast long, lingering, last looks homeward until night let down her curtain. And then, separated for the first time, by a liquid element, from Family, Friends, Home and Country, came a sense of loneliness to which my soul had been a stranger. Anxious to be alone to indulge " thick corning fancies," I lighted my segar, went forward and seated myself upon the windlass, for a long, quiet self communion, which, however, was almost abruptly terminated by a wave that, dashing over the bows, gave me the ill-timed luxury of a shower bath, and drove me, dripping wet, back to the quarter deck.
During the night the wind lulled, and soon after sunrise when I came on Deck, the Captain pointed me to the land-shade of Montauk Point, within about twelve miles of which we could see. Our course had been parallel with Long Island, keeping about twenty-five miles from shore. We were forty-five miles from Sandy Hook at sun-set of the first day.
I happened to be forward when the mates were dividing the Crew into " watches," the first and second mates choosing (as we choose sides at ball play) the best sailors for their respective watches. It was a novel and amusing scene. The sailors gave their names "Dick," "Bob," "Bill," " Charlie," " Tom," "Jack," as they were asked. One gave the name of " Howard." The mate replied " your other name." " Zeb, sir," was the response. The mate, shaking his head, said " Zeb is not a ship-shape name, let it be Howard." ' Another gave the name of Van Schoonhoven. " Oh," says the mate, " belay that long name and unship your short one." The boy then gave " George," winch proved more satisfactory.
After a brief outline of duty, announced in a seaman's manner and language, from the chief mate (Mr. Gibbs), the second ma.te's Watch was sent below. Among the duties enjoined upon the crew were " strict obedience to orders, a bright look-out, no swearing in the tops, and no bawdy songs when Ladies or Gentlemen are on deck."
The ship's crew consists of the Captain, three Mates, seventeen able Seamen, a Carpenter, three boys, a Steward, Cook and three Waiters and a Stewardess. Our crew seems an excellent one. Two of the sailors have been former mates of vessels, but for want of such situations, and rather than be idle, ship on board the Liverpool Packets. These Lines of Packets, by the way, are nurseries for American Ship Masters. The Captains of all these noble Vessels, like Bonaparte's best Generals, have risen by merit from before the mast to the quarter-deck. Captain Burrows, who commands our ship, first came on board the Silas Richards, Captain Holdridge, as a " Boy," and passed from step to step through the grades of ordinary seaman, able seaman, third, second and first mate, to the high and responsible station he now occupies, so honorably to himself and useful to the owners of his ship. His predecessor, Capt. Holdridge, who came from the same town (Groton) in Connecticut, rose in the same way, and is now fitting out the " Victoria," a magnificent new Ship, to be placed in the same Line. Captain Burrows succeeds, in turn, to the next new Ship, though he will leave with regret, as did Captain H., his favorite " George Washington,"
a ship that has done her work so far, faithfully and gallantly, and that has been the scene of so many of their trials and achievements. It is a very remarkable fact, and one of •which Connecticut and Massachusetts may be justly proud, that almost all of the Packet Ships belonging to the several Lines running between New York and Liverpool and New York and London, are commanded by natives of those States. Indeed, most of the Captains of the London " Liners " are natives of the same town (Lyme) in Connecticut ! This fact shows that with the advantages of a Common School Education, fortified by " steady habits," a New England boy will carve out his fortune even in a profession where humble merit encounters the most formidable obstacles to advancement.
For the first ten days our ship bounded gaily over the billows with fair and fresh winds. But we have been becalmed for two days, and at this moment the mighty elements, that may be so soon lashed into terrific rage, sleep as sweetly and breathe as gently as an infant or a zephyr.
Yesterday large schools of Porpoises disported themselves around us for hours. To-day the marine visitors of yesterday are succeeded by Whales, real Whales, though I cannot vouch for their being " right sperm." The first one " spouted " within a hundred yards of the ship, passing along lazily astern. Another soon appeared on the starboard side of the ship and still nearer, which was followed by two others, all continuing spouting and sporting for two hours. This display of Neptune's curiosities was crowned, after Tea, by the appearance of a huge Shark in the ship's wake and but a few feet astern.
We are a large, but exceedingly harmonious community. The Steerage Passengers number over 150, most of whom are disappointed Emigrants returning to the Old World, without having found in the New the " ready dug " gold that seduced them across the Atlantic. In talking with some of these People, I find that they return more because they cannot reconcile themselves to our " social reforms," than for the want of employment. Some, it is true, are unfortunate, as some always must be in a world of vicissitudes. The returning English emigrants go home in great disgust with Brother Jonathan. They concentrated all their hatred of our country by saying that " everything in America stinks, but the Vinegar, and that is sweet." But even this picture has its bright hues as well as its dark shades. There are, among the Steerage Passengers, an old Irish Lady and Gentleman of the name of Tobijst, from Cincinnati, who go back to the Green Isle to die where they were born, that their dust may rest where rests the dust of their Fathers. They have lived prosperously in America, but they could die happy only in Ireland. Six children are left in America, and one Daughter, with that filial devotion which hallows a Daughter's affection, accompanies her Parents on this sepulchral pilgrimage.
Noticing an intelligent looking Scotchman forward, I inquired if he too was tired of America 1 " Na, na, friend. Its no that way wi' me. I'm but running o'er on a matter o' bisness, and to make a short vesit. From the first day I set foot in Oneida county, Mr. Wolcott — a vara nice man lie is — (perhaps you ken something of the Wolcotts's — they are Manufacturers at York Mills), gave me employment, and I have not seen an idle hour, or lacked any of the enjoyments of life since. The last winter I purchased a Farm in Clinton. The crops are a' in and growing, and wi' God's blessin' I will be back to the harvesting o' them. I have help enough in my own Family to work my Farm. Three Sons are well grown lads, and others are coming up after them. The gude wife has fourteen bairns." Much agreeable conversation passed with this industrious, thriving, cheerful Scotchman (Mr. Bryden), who represents a numerous and valuable class of our Emigrant citizens. With the habits, principles and temperament of the Bailie Nicol Jarvies who are to be met in our " Saut Markets," and the " Dandie Dinmots " who fertilize our soil, no stranger need turn hungry or naked from our shores.
There are, by the way, two classes of Steerage passengers. My Scotch friend and several others have large rooms partitioned off from the Steerage proper, with the benefit of good air and light. They however "eat themselves," as Pat says, and pay $50 for their passage. A second class steerage passage is but $10.
Among the first class Steerage passengers I was not a little surprised to find the " Columbian Minstrels" for whose high vocal powers our friend Meech of the Museum, has so often made the Evening Journal voucher. They are on a professional visit to England, where Mr. Rice, the original " Wirginny Nigger " was eminently successful. As these Vocalists can out-"jump Jim Crow," and give ten Songs to his one, I hope thensuccess may be in proportion. We are indebted largely to Europe for her Fanny Ellslers, Mad. Celestes, Mons. Adrents, &c, &c. It is a pleasure, therefore, to send abroad, in return, these " Columbian Minstrels" whose success, if there is taste and sentiment in England to enjoy the music of nature, will be more than triumphant. Nor are these Yankee Minstrels the only national novelty the Ship George Washington is wafting to England. We have two thousand Wooden Clocks on board ! These " notions " are of Massachusetts fabrication, and find, I am informed, a ready market with John Bull. The purchasers are among the humblest of the middling classes, who form clubs of 12, 15 or 20, paying six pence a week into a purse for the purchase of Clocks, which are drawn for by Lottery, the contribution and the drawings continuing until each member of the Club rejoices in a Wooden Clock. This is one of the triumphs of American Manufactures.
Wednesday, June 28.
Our good ship George Washington has always been a favorite Packet. On her June passage of last year, Charles Dickens returned in her to England. Captain Burrows informs me that he made himself extremely popular with all on board. In his " Notes " he speaks in highly complimentary terms of the ship and her commander.
Grant Thorburn, the well known Seedsman and Florist, returned to America in this ship, and I make the following extract from his Book, for the purpose of saying that every word of it is as applicable to her present captain and crew as to her former excellent commander :
"If you have a friend in the world to whom you wish well, and that friend wants to cross the Atlantic, tell him to waft for the George Washington, Captain Holdridge and crew. We have been nine days out, and have not heard an oath from an officer or a sailor ; sometimes making twelve knots an hour, with the waves as high as Snake-Hill in Jersey, and neither a sigh nor a groan has escaped the ship's timbers. • Her sheets of canvas swelling in the breeze, are moved by her steady and willing crew, without noise or confusion — all as if impelled by the god of order."
The same spirit of order and the same proprieties of language and temper, reigned throughout the vessel during the twenty- one days we were on board of her. But enough for this writing. So adieu for the present.
Letters from Europe.
II. Packet Ship George Washington
At Sea, June 23, 1843.
Our noble ship has been reposing, for three days, upon the unruffled bosom of a slumbering Ocean ; and although we number more than 200 souls, all is quietness and tranquillity on board. The Captain and Mates pace the quarter-deck, looking and whistling, rather impatiently, for wind. The passengers at their books, shuffle-board, backgammon, chess or checkers, seem alike content with wind or calm. Much of our conversation, however, consists in discussing the probabilities of our arrival at Liverpool before the steamer that left Boston nine days after us, and the "Akhbar," a fast sailing ship that left New York thirty hours before us. The first predictions of those who bave "crossed before" were for a passage of nineteen days, but since the calm they are willing to compound for a twenty-one, twenty-two, or twenty-three clays' run. Our Ship has passed everything she has encountered so far, but without wind, the Steamer will pass us the day after to-morrow. The Sea, like politics, makes "strange bed-fellows." Our cabin passengers have been drawn from nearly all the different points of compass on the globe, and are as diverse in characters and pursuit, as in birth and language. But we all affiliate and harmonize wonderfully. There is not an ill-natured or querulous spirit among us.
This, I am told, is unusual, and my own slight expe- 2 rience in traveling has shown " a black sheep " in almost every flock. In addition to our own party of four, we have a quiet Englishman who is returning from a visit to a sister residing in Canada, surprised and gratified to have found a large and flourishing town (New York) between London and Montreal ! There is an affable, talkative old gentleman from Sheffield (a Razor manufacturer, I believe), returning from a visit to New York. He went out in the Packet Ship North America, last spring, and was beached near Sandy Hook. There are two youngofficers of the British Army returning home with chilling recollections of a Canadian winter; a Scotchman and his niece, from Terre Haute, Indiana ; a Pennsylvanian and his sister, from the good Whig county of Somerset, going to Ireland after a legacy, I infer, their Father having been an Irishman and their Mother Scotch; an Englishman from Boston; a partner in an extensive Merchant Tailor's establishment in Park Place, who goes to London and Paris to purchase clothes and "catch the fashions as they change;" a Dry Goods dealer in Broadway, who, though born in Holland, persists in claiming America as his native country ; a young Gentleman, who, thoiigh born in Baltimore, gives himself out as an Englishman. He was left with a fortune, partly on this and partly on the other side of the Atlantic. His habits, in some respects, are most thoroughly English, for he sits up until four o'clock in the morning, rises at one p. m., breakfasts, and drinks porter inordinately. But he is intelligent and agreeable. We have a gentlemanly English merchant and his accomplished Lady, changing their residence from New York to Liverpool, the Tariff having destroyed his business in
America; a companionable, frank, honest Yorkshireman, connected with a Cloth house in New York, and residing in Brooklyn, who is going to Leeds for his Wife and Child; a retiring Partner in the great Iron house of Sanderson & Brothers, Sheffield, who, after a residence of fourteen years in New York, goes to the Island of Jersey to enjoy the fruits of his enterprise and industry. This gentleman is one of John Bull's legitimate sons. His aversion for Brother Jonathan is purely national. His most formidable charge against Republican Institutions, is their relaxing influence upon Domestic discipline. He attributed the recusancy of a Son and the elopement of a Daughter wholly to these causes, and will never learn that the " iron rule," in the government of children, is quite as likely to have occasioned the disappointment of his parental hopes. This gentleman is, however, an agreeable companion, with kindly feelings, and, I doubt not, a worthy man. He has an inexhaustible fund of cheerful conversation. We have a young German gentleman, who has passed four years in the commercial cities of England, France and America, and is now returning to Hamburgh, to commence his own commercial career. He is very generally informed, and has, in the broadest sense of the term, completed his Education. We have also a Catholic Priest (a native of Bavaria), who was some time at Detroit, but now from Cincinnati, returning home out of health.
Father De Smet, a native of Belgium, and a Missionary of the Jesuits, is returning from a four years' residence among the Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains. His errand was one of true Christian benevolence, and in searching the wide world, few men conld be found so richly endowed with the qualities and so deeply imbued with the principles of that Divine Missionary who was sent to proclaim peace and good will to man. Father De Smet belongs to a Family possessing rank and wealth He gave his fortune to his Brothers (reserving only what was necessary to defray his expenses), and departed for the New World and its wilderness, giving up the remainder of his life to the improvement and the amelioration of the condition of the poor Indian. He went among the most savage of the Tribes, with no defense but the Cross, and though constantly passing through scenes of violence and outrage, and living amid slaughter and rapine, not a hair of his head has been injured. We have been delighted, during the passage, with his recitals of Indian habits, customs, wars, worship, &c, &c. On his recent return to St. Louis, where he contributed largely, by his efforts in Europe, to endow a College, Father De Smet traveled, with an Indian companion, 3,000 miles through the wilderness, by a pocket compass. His Letters to the Superior of his Order, recently published, make a volume of exceeding interest. He is laboring, with intelligence and zeal, to introduce the virtues of civilization, without its vices, among the Indians. He first impresses the truths of Revelation upon their minds and then instructs them in the pursuit of Agriculture. His present visit to the Old "World is connected with his philanthropic duties. He returns to the Rocky Mountains in November by the way of the Columbia River. My traveling companions have made a donation to the good Father for the benefit of his Indians.
We have also as compagnons du voyage, Bishop Hughes, of New York, and Bishop Purcell, of Ohio, two eminent and excellent Ecclesiastics of the Catholic Church. As educated and enlightened men, they have been conversed with and listened to by us all with pleasure and advantage. But as Ministers of the Gospel, their presence has imparted a still higher interest. On the first Sabbath out, Bishop Hughes preached a sermon, standing at the step of the mizzen mast, which was most attentively listened to by a congregation of over two hundred. The subject (St. Paul's epistle to the Romans, eleventh chapter, from the twenty-second to the last verse) was appropriate, and his commentary truly impressive. He made the ocean a witness in favor of the truth of Revelation. He spoke of it, too, as a glorious page in the great book of Nature, which could not be contemplated without exciting more of admiration than of awe. Man, he said, may boast of his power and wisdom as displayed in the construction of this strong and beautiful ship, but how impotent is man's power and how fruitless his wisdom, until Cod, in His abounding goodness, fills our canvas with His winds ! On the following Sabbath the same community reassembled for Divine Worship. Bishop Purcell officiated. His sennon was designed as a vindication of the Truths of Revelation, and to enforce the duties of Faith and obedience. His language and manner were fervent and affectionate. He entered upon a train of argument to show how reason and philosophy expose and confound their teachers, in which he was truly impressive and conclusive. Not a word was uttered by either of these good Bishops to which all Christians would not heartily respond.
I had often heard of Bishop Puecell, of Cincinnati, as a man much beloved by his own people, and as much respected by all others. He is worthy of affection and regard, for all the kindliest elements are mixed up in his character.
Of Bishop Hughes, to whose enlightened conversations upon various subjects I derived much instruction, I shall speak in another letter.
Sunday Afternoon, June 25.
The calm was broken yesterday by a fresh southeasterly wind, which compelled us about three o'clock p. M. to shorten sail. I lay on deck — it blew rather too hard for landsmen to stand — while the sailors were taking in, first the light sails, and then reefing the larger sheets, and can now sympathize understandingly with those who admire and celebrate the sailor's enthusiasm and gallantry. The wind seems their element. The men who had been lounging lazily about the ship during the calm, when a young tempest came, sprang lightly into the tops, some laying out upon the yards, and others ascending higher to furl the main-top-gallant sail, the ship, in the meantime, bounding over billows that made her bow and stern alternately describe angles of forty-five degrees.
The easterly wind is driving us off our course. The Captain's observation and reckoning at twelve o'clock to-day, brought us within an hundred miles of Land, and about thirty miles northward of Cape Clear, the entrance to the British Channel. "With the wind as it is now, we expect to make the Land to-morrow morning, and then to decide whether it is best to attempt the South, or take the North Channel.
I have been struck with the variations in time as we have been running down from a longitude of 59 into one of 14. Bishop Hughes, who has a truth-telling watch, has kept his New York time. By his watch it is now nine o'clock, p. M. And yet you at Albany are just coming from the afternoon Churches, at five. When we were at Breakfast this morning, at eight, few, if any of you had opened your eyes; and before the sentinel in Sheriff Adams' belfry sings "past eleven o'clock and all is well," it will be daylight here.
Monday Morning, June 26.
We went on deck this morning, expecting to be greeted with a view of Land, but were sadly disappointed. The wind came off dead ahead about midnight, since which time we have been heading to windward, and are yet some forty miles from Land, without any hope of getting into the channel until the wind changes.
Twelve o'clock, M. — The Captain, who was intent yesterday and to-day upon his charts, &c, has just taken an observation. His reckoning shows us about twenty-five miles from Land, and about thirty -five from Valentia, a small port on the Northwest coast of Ireland, whence he has concluded to run, and where many of us intend to Land, and make an excursion thro' the Green Isle.
Four o'clock, P.M. — The wind has baffled us. By drawing around two points to the north and east we are defeated in our intention of making the harbor of Valentia. She has been put about and is now running south along the Coast, with the hope of such a change of wind as will enable us to get into the British Channel. Seven o'clock, P. M. — We are just called on Deck from the Tea Table to see Land ! The outline of what seems a high mountain was first discovered. High, bald, headlands in the County of Kerry, were soon distinctly seen. Then came the Skellig rocks looming up like "Butter Hill" at the mouth of our own Highlands. One of these high promontories, in the distance we are viewing it, assumes the form of a majestic Mansion of fine architectural proportions, with roof, chimneys, &c.
Tuesday Morning, June 27.
We have been all night struggling with a head wind, and find ourselves, this morning, more than twenty miles from Cape Clear. The Irish shore is but ten miles off, and its mountains of rocks, with their Druidical towers, are in full view. The coast is barren and frowning.
Five o'clock, P. M. — We have been all day "dragging our slow length along" the Coast of Ireland, and though most of our Passengers have been restless and impatient, to me it has been a day of interest and enjoyment. We have passed the Bay of Bantry, and several bold head-lands, of which the Steerage passengers, who are going back to " Sweet Ireland," have been giving me traditions and legends. A bright sun and balmy atmosphere have enabled me to remain all day on deck enjoying these rugged views. At three o'clock the Steamer Acadia, from Boston, came in sight, pushing directly for Cape Clear, the point at which we are aiming. Her appearance was indicated long before the vessel could be seen, by a black column of smoke streaking the horizon. She passed within about seven miles of us and pushed up the Channel. The Acadia left Boston on the 16th inst. She will therefore make a twelve days' passage. But for head winds and calms we should have been in Liverpool on Saturday last.
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