'Ventures among the Arabs in desert, tent and town; thirteen years of pioneer missionary life with the Ishma-elites of Moab, Edom and Arabia

Front matter

MR. ARCHIBALD FORDER IN EUROPEAN AND ARAB COSTUME

/VENTURES AMONG THE ARABS

IN DESERT, TENT, AND TOWN

Preface

The object of this book is not to gratify a love for sensational adventure, but to show how a life wholly given up to God's service can be used and spared under circumstances varied and often seemingly hopeless, and in the hope that many may be led to venture something on behalf of that great peninsula of Arabia of which it tells. It shows that the ventures of the pioneer missionary are full of adventures, trying, exciting, and interesting, and should dispel the illusion that his life is all honey and that in far-away lands he generally has a good time.

No attempt is made at literary perfection, or at a detailed geographical, historical, or other description of Arabia. My story is a simple record of ventures just as they occurred, a transcript of personal experiences and beliefs. It is sent forth to what I believe is a sympathetic

VI PREFACE

public, and If through the perusal of its pages any one is led to a fuller and deeper consecration in the work of evangelizing the nations of the world, my time, labor, and thought will have been well expended.

A. FORDER.

Boston, Mass., May, 1905.

Contents

I. A Rough Reception ....

II. Getting into Moab ....

III. Who was Captured ....

Introduction

[Bv Special Permission from " With the Arabs in Tent and Town."]

CONSULATE OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

To whom it may concern:

This letter introduces Mr. Archibald Forder, who is well known to me. He is a tireless, faithful, devoted Christian worker. He is fearless, and has labored with indefatigable zeal. He enjoys pioneer and missionary work better than any other man I have ever seen. Only I last year (1900) he went alone into the heart I of Arabia, and nearly perished because the hardships were so great. He is a regular Livingstone, and if there were still any "unknown continent," Mr. Forder would be the man to open it up to Christianity. In connection with some established Society, or under xii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

the direction of some judicious Board of Trustees, I am sure that Mr. Forder would do most excellent work. His character is above reproach, and in this country he is respected by all who know him.

I remain, yours respectfully,

U. S. Consul, Jerusalem.

September 23, 1901.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

For the twin photographs reproduced as frontispiece, we are indebted to J. C. Varney, Haverhill, Mass., and for the photograph facing page 85, thanks are due to Van B. Wheaton, Amsterdam, N.Y.

'VENTURES AMONG THE ARABS CHAPTER I

IT was fast growing dark, and we were eagerly anticipating the end of our long and fatiguing journey. Four days we had been on the way from Jerusalem, and one more night should bring us to our new home among the thousands of Ishmaelites, in Kerak, the old Moabitish capital, on the highlands and in the mountains of that little-known region.

The leader of our little caravan ordered the loads to be put on the camels and mules for this final stage of the journey. With fear and trembling our faithful men adjusted them, then grasping their heavy sticks and slinging their flintlock guns over their backs, with a " Bismallah " — " In the name of God " — led off, hoping that before daybreak we would be housed in the old city, only twenty-five or thirty miles ahead.

We mounted our animals and brought up the rear. In the twilight we could see the caravan ahead of us urged on by our men, but no sound was uttered. For we were now in the land of Moab, among a people noted for their lawlessness, dwellers in houses of hair, keepers of flocks and herds, whose hand was against every man, and every man's hand against them — a people who looked with suspicion upon any one who dared to enter their country uninvited, and who were ready at a moment's notice to attack, rob, and even kill, so that the purses and purposes of the chiefs and their many attendants might be filled and upheld ; and after plunder and even murder return to their camps, pull down and fold up their tents, and migrate to some region inaccessible to any who might purpose revenge for any such treatment as just described.

Was it any wonder that our good Arab attendants kept quiet lest they should bring down on us some of the bloodthirsty, greedy children of Ishmael ? But in spite of quiet and care we were not to be allowed to pass unmolested or to reach our mountain home without interruption.

It was about seven in the evening, and quite dark, when suddenly, without any warning, we were surrounded by a large number of fierce fellows armed with rifles, spears, daggers, and revolvers. They appeared to come from beneath, so quickly were they upon us. Their mode of operation was well planned and carried out. First they separated us, then some drove off the loaded animals that in the stampede and surprise had been deserted by their drivers. Others of these unexpected arrivals took as a prisoner one of our little company, and in a few minutes after the attack no one knew where the other was.

Who were the newcomers? some will be asking. They were a company of Arabs belonging to the ruling family of Moab, and known as the MujelHes. They were famous and feared, because of their ferocity and daring. Somehow they had learned of our coming and had been lying in wait for us, prepared to give us not only a surprise, but a rough and discouraging reception to their country. It was neither the place or time for talking, so each one, still riding, was led off in charge of three or four of these unwelcome fellows.

I heard my wife calling for me, her voice came from somewhere on my right, so without any notice to my captors I slipped off my horse, and before they realized what had occurred I was running in the direction from whence the sound of my wife's voice had come. Stumbling over stones and bushes in the darkness, I at last came upon a little group. In the midst was my wife, still seated upon her mule. Around her were some six or eight men, some on horses, others on foot. They were trying to make her understand that they wanted any valuables that she might have.

Fierce and lawless as they were, their social custom kept them from laying hands on a woman, much as they might covet and wish to have any valuables that she might possess. I had already been overhauled, with a very poor result, however, for I had nothing worth taking, having anticipated some such experience as this. I had stoutly resisted the first man who started to make the acquaintance of my pockets and saddle-bags. Thinking to frighten me into submission, he drew out a long curved dagger and held it in a threatening way over me, but I put up my arm and knocked it out of his hands, and he thought it wise to desist from interfering with me.

Pushing between the horses and men that surrounded my wife, I, by signs and shouting, protested against their actions. At that time I only knew a few words of Arabic. They were joined, a few minutes later, by my captors, who had followed me after I had given them the slip. Together we all moved off, I walking by the side of my wife's mule and doing my best to encourage and cheer her. Many times our captors urged me to ride, but to no purpose.

All this time we knew nothing about our companions who were able to speak the language, or anything about the loads or our faithful attendants. For about an hour we went on in the dark. Often I stumbled over stones, or put my foot into some hole in the dry, parched ground, but I held on to the bridle of the mule, and in spite of sore feet and bleeding legs, pricked by stout thorns or nettles, at last saw in the distance the lights of camp-fires, and knew that the homes of our captors were near, and for a time, at least, this part of our journey was about at an end. Furious dogs rushed hither and thither, announcing our coming" with their shrill, harsh barking.

A few minutes later we halted before one of the tents in a large encampment and were invited to enter, which we did, conscious of the fact that we were the prisoners of the Bedouin, and our temporary prison a house of hair.

Chapter II

THE previous chapter left my companions and myself captives in a house of hair on the wide plains of Moab. Let me now relate how I reached the place and circumstances already told.

My wife and self left England on Thursday, September 3, 1891. We were sent off with many good wishes and the blessings and earnest prayers of our parents and friends. In due time we reached Jaffa, the port of Southern Palestine, and were welcomed there by Mr, and Mrs. Lethaby, whose place we had come to take for a time. Here I had my first Arabic lesson — one that was short, comparatively easy, but very helpful. The agent who undertook for us in the landing and customs taught me the equivalent in Arabic for " What is that ? " Armed with my first two words of that difficult language, I went ahead and soon learned the names of many things, until able to converse with the people.

As the way to Moab was through Jerusalem, we hired carriages to drive to the Holy City. The railroad was not open in those days. After a weary ride we reached Jerusalem and were lodged in a comfortable home. On Wednesday morning, September 30, we started for Moab. The old capital, Kerak, — Kir of the Old Testament, — was our destination, and had we then known all that was to befall us, we would not have set out so light-heartedly. Our companions, Mr. and Mrs. Lethaby, rode in rude crates slung across a camel's back. Mrs. Forder and myself were accommodated in a similar fashion. We moved along like snails, and after having ridden until we were all stiff and tired, our camel man at last yielded to our pleadings and persuasions, and consented to stop and rest awhile. In ten minutes we started again. O dear! that day's journey to Jericho is still in my mind; the jolting and rocking on that camel's back, under the scorching sun, was almost unbearable. To add to our miseries, that stubborn camel would insist on walking along the very edges of the steep precipices so common on the Jericho road. If we touched it on the neck to guide it to the middle of the road, the beast would stop and commence to kneel. The calmness of that beast greatly added to our discomforts that first day out. If it turned back its long neck to knock a troublesome fly off its hindquarters, we thought it was after a bite at our legs, that dangled over the sides of the crates in which we were seated.

At last we sighted Jericho in the plains below, and at length reached the village. We were tired and exhausted, and were grateful for the shelter and warm water supplied by the woman in charge of the Russian hospice there. We tried to sleep, but the heat and innumerable occupants of our beds made it impossible.

About two next morning we were up and again on the move. In the dark our camels followed their master across the level plain of Jericho. At daybreak we reached the banks of the historic river, and our man, throwing aside his garments, proceeded to ford the Jordan. In turn both camels were led through the river; two donkeys swam across, closely following the camels. Our man carried our packages across on his head, and after many fordings at length got everything over. It was an interesting sight in the cool and light of the early morning. We rested about half an hour, and had our breakfast off dry bread and Jordan water, which, if not luxurious, was satisfying.

PHOTOGRAPH BY A. FOROER

VIEW ON THE RIVER JORDAN

This view on the river is near the fords over which the Israehtes crossed. It is about five miles from Jericho. The picture was taken from the wooden bridge that spans the river at that point. Mr. Forder crossed here on his first jovimey into Moab.

INTERIOR OF AN ARAB HOUSE This shows the fireplace in the middle of the floor and the mud bins in which grain, salt, or flour is stored. In the recesses on the left side the family sleep, the floor generally being occupied bv guests. These houses have neither wmdows nor chimneys.

The ride across the plains of the Jordan was long and tiresome. The heat was terrific, and the Moab mountains seemed never to come nearer. But they at last were reached, and the ascent commenced. Slowly and calmly those camels went about their difficult task — up and down places that seemed impossible for any animal to venture, along the edges of deep ravines, over rocks with surfaces worn smooth and slippery by much traffic and exposure to storms and winds, and at last out on to the extensive and fertile plains of Moab, at that season of the year dry and cracked after the heat of the long summer. We passed close under the shadow of Mount Nebo, but were too weary to realize it or give much thought to the first leader of Israel who died there on that lonely spur in the mountain range.

Fifteen hours after leaving Jericho we reached Medeba, a large village on the plain. How thankful we were for the warm welcome given us by the chief of the place ! He spread rugs and comforts on the floor for us, on which we lay, glad to stretch and rest our weary limbs. The house was just one large room ; on each side were raised recesses, in which the family slept or stored their goods. Wide arches supported the roof, which was made of a thick layer of mud and earth held up by beams of wood.

In usual Arab style supper was prepared and served. Two baked fowls, boiled rice, and warm bread made a very decent meal. We ate our fill ; what remained was given to those who flocked in to gaze at us. Coffee followed, served in small cups ; a tablespoonful was all we got, and for us it sufficed, for it was thick and strong, and minus milk or sugar. By that time a lot of men had crowded the house and had seated themselves around the fire, which was in a hollow in the middle of the floor. Midst their noisy jabber and the smoke of the fire and numerous pipes we fell asleep, and for a short time were oblivious to our new and strange surroundings. Awaking soon after, we were not long in discovering that myriads of minute bloodsuckers had attacked us, evidently with the intention of drawing all they could from the newcomers. We learned to our dismay that Medeba was the residence of the king and queen of the flea community, and that they never delayed investigating any one who tarried for a time in their domains. A few snatches of sleep refreshed us and helped to pass away that lively night.

I ought to have said that our heavy baggage

GETTING INTO MOAB II

left Jerusalem on five mules about two hours before us the day we started ; these we overtook at Medeba. We did not expect to set out again for a day or two, but about ten o'clock Friday morning they said they were going on. Our camels had gone back to Jerusalem, so we commenced the second stage of our journey on horses and mules. The next two days' ride meant danger and delay unless we were fortunate enough to get along unseen.

Late in the afternoon we entered the enemy's territory and kept moving on until quite dark. About forty men and animals now formed our caravan, many having decided to travel with us, because in numbers there was safety. Without a sound from each other we traversed those plains in the dark. Suddenly we were surrounded by ten or twelve men of the Hameideh tribe, through whose country we were travelling without consent. In the starlight they looked awful fellows, armed with rifles, revolvers, and swords, and spears about twelve feet long. After much shouting and talk, which to us was unintelligible, they separated us, and drove off all the loaded animals, after which they left us to come together again and proceed on our way, not knowing what had gone with our baggage.

After about two hours we reached an encampment of houses of hair, where we passed the remainder of the night. Before morning all the loaded animals were driven in, having been regained by our faithful muleteers. By daybreak we were again on the move, hoping that before night we should be safely housed in Kerak. Soon we descended into the grand but deep gorge of Mojeb. We crossed the river Arnon, which flows through the bed of the valley, and were delighted with the abundance of white and pink oleanders that grew on its banks. We reached the Kerak side of that magnificent gorge about ten in the morning ; here we decided to stay till sunset, for we had now reached the territory of the robber chiefs of Moab, known as the Mujellies.

Our men knew that if we fell into the hands of these dreaded chiefs, they would show us no mercy. We found shade and shelter under a large rock, so placed that even passers-by could not see us unless we wilfully exposed ourselves. We had not been in hiding long when we heard a noisy wrangle going on among our men. Mrs. Lethaby crept out and caught sight of the long spear of a sheikh, or chief. He had come upon our men and said that some of them had robbed one of his tribe of a gun, and he must have something in return for it. After a stormy quarrel he drove away a mule on which he had loaded our beds, a box of our clothing, and my baby organ. We gave up all hope of ever seeing them again, but counted ourselves fortunate in getting them returned to us several weeks later.

The remainder of the day passed quietly, and the rest prepared us for the events recorded in the first chapter. There we were in a Bedouin tent, and from that point I take up the story.

My wife and self were taken into one of those goat's-hair homes. Carpets were spread for us to sit on. Men, women, and children crowded in to stare at us, and we concluded that they were all gratified at the capture that had been made. Soon it occurred to one of them that we might be hungry, so they asked us by means of signs if we would eat. We nodded our assent, and soon they baked us some large, thin cakes of bread, which were very good. They also made us coffee and brought us a large bowl of milk. It was perhaps well for us that we could not talk to them ; we wished we could have done so, then we might have got tidings of our companions and our belongings.

In about an hour's time one of our men came to US and made us understand that we were wanted elsewhere. We got up and followed him. He led us to a tent on the far side of the encampment, and there we found our companions. They were in the tent of the chief, surrounded by his wild sons and rapacious retinue. The chief demanded money for our passage through his country. Fifty dollars must be his before we were released, or else he would keep us and all our goods. To many the sum demanded would have been small, but to us and to them it was much, so we refused to gratify the crafty Arab's demands.

We prayed to God for wisdom and deliverance, then laid down on the bare earth and fell asleep. On awaking next morning, we saw some of our boxes lying about the camp at any one's mercy. Soon the women began to pull down the tents and move the camp, and we plainly saw that we must settle something or else lose all we possessed.

We promised to pay the amount demanded on the condition that we were escorted to Kerak in safety, and all our baggage restored to us. Three of the chief's sons were appointed to go with us and take us to our mountain home. Another start was made, but after an hour or so we were accosted by more Arab horsemen, all excited and furious. Every one was allowed to pass but my wife and myself. These new claimants to us were from another family connected with the ruling sheikh, and they demanded their share of the plunder before we could pass. After much wrangling our protectors got us away and we overtook the others.

At three in the afternoon we reached Kerak, all weary, tired, and faint, for we had had neither food nor drink for fifteen hours. In this manner I was introduced to the Arabs. Ofttimes afterward I talked with those wild fellows about that night, only to have them reply — " What's past is past, and what's dead is dead."

Through all those first experiences, new and hard on fresh comers, we showed no outward signs of fear or terror. We realized then, as we have many times since, that " the angel of the Lord encampeth round about them that fear him, and delivereth them." It was only the commencement of much, and even worse, that was to follow before the love, respect, confidence, and admiration of those semi-civilized children of Ishmael were gained, never to be lost.

Chapter III

SOME knowledge about the author of this book and his early life will enable the reader better to follow and understand all that these pages may contain.

Silver spoons were not floating around in the home where I first saw the light. I was one of seven children, who were fortunate in having godly parents in the fullest sense of the word. Worldly prosperity was not ours, neither were we poor, and the future promised no more for me than the humdrum plod, plod, of everyday life. It was when I was a lad of eight years that an announcement, made throughout my native city, created a desire in my young mind to hear a public speaker. Robert Moffat, the pioneer of missions in Africa, was coming to speak, and I gained permission from rather unwilling parents to go and hear him. The unwillingness came not from any wish or thought that it was no place for one so young in years, but rather because they thought that

i6 bed was a more suitable place than a crowded hall for one of so short an existence.

When the night came, I had a front seat in that hall. The lights, crowds, close attention paid to the speaker, and other things still linger in my memory, but the veteran pioneer, with his bald head and long, gray beard, held me as no other ever did. The plea for the Hottentots and for volunteers appealed to some, but perhaps the thing that pleased me as a boy was the story of the lion jumping out of the jungle and gripping Mr. Moffat by the shoulder, and his faithful servant killing the wild beast, thus saving his master's life. Before that meeting was over I had made up my mind that I would be a missionary when I grew up. I made known my boyish resolve to my mother on my return home that evening, and for a time no more was heard of it. Later on my interest in foreign missions was renewed by hearing one who had spent many years in China, and I again determined to spend my life among the heathen.

For a few years I was quite an enthusiastic and successful collector for foreign missions. Most of my half-holidays, which came on Wednesdays and Saturdays, were given up to going from door to door asking for contributions in the box that I had gotten from a missionary society. Discouragements and rebuffs did not deter me from going ahead, and I was soon noted for being a successful collector. This work was often made pleasant by some incident like the following.

One hot afternoon I was out collecting. A knock at a door brought a kind-hearted domestic to inquire who was there. " Will you please put something in my missionary box ? " was the request. The response was not money, but, " Come in, little boy, and I will ask my mistress." I entered and was shown into a nicely furnished room to await developments. The servant told her mistress about me, and in a short time the lady of the house appeared. She asked a few questions, which I answered, evidently to her satisfaction, for she rang the bell, and in came the servant again. " Bring in some refreshments for this boy," said the lady, and soon the domestic came back with a small tray, on which were some fancy crackers, cake, and a bottle of wine.

A glass of the latter was poured out and offered to me, but being a Band of Hope boy, I refused to accept it. My refusal resulted in lemonade being substituted for the wine, to which, along with the cake and crackers, I did boyish justice. After refreshments I returned to business, and had the joy of seeing a coin, worth about sixty cents, added to the collection in my box.

When only thirteen years of age, I left home and was apprenticed to the baking and grocery business, in which I served for three years. At the end of that time, and during a brief stay at home, I was led to give my heart to Christ, through the patience and persuasion of my old Sunday-school teacher. No better preparation than this could possibly have preceded my going to live in the great city of London, a place full of dangers and temptations to young fellows from country towns. Arrived in the great metropolis, I soon got a good position in a wholesale and retail grocery store, in which, after a remarkably short time for one so young in years, I soon became manager.

I owe my success in those days to two things: my not being ashamed of my religious convictions and my strict adherence to my temperance pledge. After business hours my evenings, as well as my Sundays, were given up to work in slum missions, Sundayschools, or young people's temperance societies. I was made missionary secretary to a large Sunday-school in London and raised the missionary collections in that school from about eighty dollars a year to more than three hundred. I came into contact with missionary pioneers and veterans from all parts of the earth, and all the while was getting more and more saturated with missionary zeal and information.

About this time I applied to the pastor of my church, who was in close touch with the missionary society of the denomination to which I belonged, and asked him if he could assist me to get into the foreign-mission field. He heard me patiently, and then with grave face and solemn tones addressed me thus : " Young man, I fear you are one of the most unlikely to get into the mission field. Many things are against you: you have no college training, you do not come of a ministerial stock," and other things, all true, but not necessary to the preaching of the simple gospel in any land. I left that study thinking that there was no possibility of my ever leaving my own land to preach the gospel in any other, so settled down to do my best in the home land.

In 1888 I married, went into business on my own account, but in my spare time kept busy with Christian work of one kind and another. I had yet to learn the truth of the words spoken by the ancient seer, " My ways are not your ways ; " also that —

God moves in a mysterious way His wonders to perform.

God looketh at the heart of man, and knows his desires, whilst man looks at the outward appearance and possibilities, so let none despair. I was quite settled in my home and prospering in my business when unexpectedly my opportunity came and my long desire was realized. It was nearly three years after my interview with the ministerial sage that the whole course of my life was changed. I had returned from my Sunday-school duties, and was reading a missionary magazine. It contained an article on mission work among the Arabs in the old land of Moab on the east side of the river Jordan. The work was one of great danger, hardship, and difficulty, and was being carried on by a married couple and one young woman. As I read I was interested, and especially with the last words, in which an appeal was made for a young married man, practical, healthy, and ready to rough it, to go and help in this work, so that the tired-out workers might have a much-needed rest. I closed the paper, and as I laid it aside a voice seemed to say to me, " That is for you."