Life in Feejee

Front matter

Glass, Book.

V '

LIFE IN FEEJEE/" V ~* f\w fmtB among ffje Cannibals.

Chapter I

Arrival at New Zealand 5 Visit at Pahia; Departure from New Zealand ; Arrival at Feejee ; Visits from the Natives ; Arrival at Bau ; Visit from Tanoa, the King of Bau, and his son, Thakombau; Departure of the Zotoff5 Vevva and its Missionaries 5 Its Chiefs 5 Destruction of Vewa, 17

Chapter II

Lasakau Procession 5 Murder; Massacre at Vewa ; Islands of Feejee ; Storm ; Rebellion at Bau, 35

CHAPTER 111.

Gods of Feejee ; The faithfulness of a Feejeean ; Temples of Feejee ; Verani Renounces Heathenism ; Murder of a Lasakau Chief 5 Strangling of Women, 53

Chapter IV

An Instance of Feejeean Justice ; Visit to the Lasakau Widow ; A Sabbath in Vewa; A Feejeean Princess; Arrival of the Zotoff; Meeting of the Chiefs on board ; Polygamy ; Departure from Vewa; Treachery of a Chief; Arrival atBua; Its King; Introduction of Fire-arms, 71

The Piot 3 The Unwelcome Guests 3 The Flight 5 False Statements, 136

Chapter IX

Destruction of Revva5 The Prisoner 5 Return to Bau 3 A Mistake 3 Arrival of the American Consul 3 The Lazy Boy 3 The Escape ; Return to Bau 3 Vatai 3 The Tonga Chief 3 Queen of Revva 3 Captives at Bau 5 Origin of the War with Rewa, 150

Chapter X

Visit to Bau 3 A Feejeean House 3 A Temple 3 Visit to a " Buri " 3 Departure from Bau 3 Mock Piety of Namosimalua3 Departure from the Islands 3 Arrival at Manicola 5 Loss of Two French Ships 3 A Dangerous Situation 3 The Island Flower-vase 3 Young Williams's Group 3 Straits of Bernardino, 171

Chapter XI

Arrival at Manilla ; Its Inhabitants 3 Its Buildings 3 Bazars 3 Visit to the Pina Factory 5 The Escolta 5 Departure from Manilla 5 Return to the Young Williams's Group 3 Its Inhabitants 5 Our Departure 5 The Greenwich Islands 3 The Dangerous Reef 5 Pleasant Island, . 185

CHAPTER Xll.

Return to Manicola 3 Supposed Treachery of the Natives 3 Arrival at Feejee 5 A Delicious Feast 5 Arrival at Bau 3 Visit of Tanoa 3 Destruction of Two Whaling Vessels 3 Natawa War 3 Ceremony of Anointing a Warrior, 203

Chapter XXI

The angry chief ; Popery in Feejee; Conspiracy; A Letter; Arrival at Bau ; Dirge ; Our Final Departure from Feejee ; The Uncas ; Arrival at Manilla; Departure; Small-pox on board; Deaths; St. Helena ; Home, 390

Ba ni valu. — A fence of war.

Beech de mer. — A sea slug.

Buri kalou. — A sacred temple.

Buri bolo. — A house to sleep in.

Bulu. — Another world.

Buka waqa. — Hell fire.

Balawa. — A pine-apple.

Kali. — A native pillar.

Kuru — An earthen vessel to cook

food in.

Kaise. — A poor person.

Kawai. — A kind of potato.

Kalavu. — A rat.

Lotu. — Christianity.

Lekn. — A woman's dress.

Lovo. — An oven.

Lovo mbokolo. — Oven for the dead.

Mate ge Mbau. — Messenger to Bau.

Mbokolo. — A dead body.

Mboli mboling. — Thanking.

MandraL— Bread.

Mbete. — A priest.

Marama. — A title for the wife and

daughter of a chief.

Marama-lavu. — A title for a wife and

daughter of a chief of high rank.

Masi. — .Native cloth.

Na-mata-ni-vanua. — An owner of the

land.

Ndawa — A fruit not unlike a plum.

Ndua, whoa. — A salutation.

Bapalagi. — A white person.

Qalova. — A ceremony used on receiving company.

Kara. — An open space of ground,

where meetings and feasts are

held.

Solavu. — A feast.

Solavu vaka masi — A feast where native cloth is presented.

Sara sara. — To observe, to explore, to see.

Solanga. — Concubine.

Soro. — l'o ask pardon for an offence.

gala. — A head-dress.

Saka. — A term used without reference to gender, as Sir and Madam.

Satika. — A vessel to hold water.

Tui. — King.

Turaga-lavu. — A chief of high rank.

Turaga. — A chief.

Tambu. — Forbidden.

Tutuvi. — A covering for a bed.

Tvfndree. — One who assists in a beech de mer house.

Tombi.—A neck ornament.

Turaga ndena. — A true chief.

Vata. — A shelf of any description.

Vaka lolo. — A pudding.

Venaka. — Good.

Vari. — A plot, a conspiracy.

Vale vatu. — A stone house.

Vale kau. — A house built of wood.

Waqa lavu. — A large vessel.

Waqa vanua. — The same.

Waqa ni lotu. — A vessel where bad conduct is not allowed.

Yandi. — Madam.

Yanggona. — A root producing a stupefying effect upon those who drink it.

LIFE IN FEEJEE.

Chapter I

Arrival at New Zealand — Visit at Pahia — Departure from New Zealand- Arrival at Feejee — Visits from the Natives — Arrival at Bau — Visit from Tanoa, the King of B;iu, and his son, Thakombau — Departure of the ZotofF — Vewa and its Missionaries — Its Chiefs — Destruction of Vewa.

Bark Zotoff, July 22, 1844.

I embarked this day on board the abovenamed bark,, to accompany my husband on a voyage to the Pacific, intending first to stop at New Zealand, and then proceed to the Feejee Islands to procure a cargo of " beech de mer." For many years my husband had been accustomed to visit these islands on trading voyages, and had become familiar with the language and customs of their inhabitants. On our passage out, nothing occurred worthy of particular note. It is sufficient to say, that we had the usual complement of squalls, calms and strong: breezes, and I had my full share of sea-sickness.

Nov. 17. We are now in sight of land. How refreshing to the eye that had grown weary with gazing on sky and water for the space of four months !

18. To-day we are riding at anchor in the Bay of Islands, the entrance to which is not visible from our bark, and we appear to be lying on the bosom of a beautiful basin, so smooth is the water. Directly in front of us is the town of Kororarika, which appears small, consisting of a few houses along the shore, and cottages scattered here and there on the slope of the hills behind. Nothing is to be seen back of the town but lofty hills not particularly verdant.

19. Yesterday Mr. W. called at the house of Capt. Clayton, a gentleman with whom he had formerly been acquainted. He was absent; but Mrs. C. invited us to make her house our home while we remained in the place. We gladly availed ourselves of this invitation, and I soon found myself once more on terra jirma. We were received by Mrs. C. with a warmth of manner which was truly grateful to our feelings ; indeed, one must be deprived of all society of her own sex for at least four months, to be enabled fully to appreciate such a reception. We found Capt C.'s house to be one of the pretty cottages I had admired from the bark. It is situated on the declivity of a hill, and commands a fine view of the harbor. In the afternoon some friends of Mrs. C.'s called, and invited us to walk. We were soon equipped, and sallied forth to climb the rugged acclivities of the hills, which I found rather tedious, having been unaccustomed to such exercise for so long a time. When we reached the hill-top, we came in sight of another harbor. On looking beyond, nothing meets the eye but hills over hills, covered with a kind of fern, of a dark olive green. I am told that there are more than fifty varieties on the island.

20. This morning I received a fine bunch of flowers, with the compliments of Mr. and Mrs. Caflin, and a polite invitation for us to call with Mrs. Clayton and walk in their garden. During the morning I was preparing letters for home. In the afternoon Mrs. C. and myself called on Mr. and Mrs. Dudley. Mr. D. is settled here as the pastor of the Episcopal Church, for a short time; after which, he is appointed to go somewhere into the interior, as a missionary. I found them warmhearted and very social. They appeared truly devoted to the great and good cause in which they are engaged. After a long and pleasant visit, we took leave of Mr. and Mrs. D. with reluctance, and departed for the residence of Mr. and Mrs. Caflin. They met us at their gate, and accompanied us around their beautiful garden. We could not admire it enough; it was truly an oasis, — a garden blooming in the desert. We remained here a long time, feasting our eyes upon the rich beauties of nature, which were so nicely arranged by the good taste of the owner that we seemed not to tire, nor take note of time as it passed. Mr. W. soon joined us, and we were reminded, by the departing rays of the sun, that we should be wending our way homeward. We passed from the garden to the house, and after remaining a short time, departed.

21. This morning Mr. W. procured a boat and men, to take Mrs. C. and myself across the harbor to a place called Pahia, where Rev. Mr. Williams, one of the first missionaries to this place, is settled. Mr. W. was absent. Mrs. W., who is a fine, active woman, received us with apparent pleasure, and showed us about their premises. The mission buildings are situated in a little vale, at the foot of a lofty hill. They consist of a few dwelling houses, a chapel, and a printing office. They had gardens also, filled with the useful and ornamental. We had not been here long when Dr. Ford and his wife came in. They had been to Mrs. C.'s to call upon us, and learning where we were, had followed.

I learned that Mr. W. had been a missionary here about twenty-one years. As our time was limited, having engaged to meet Mr. W. at Wapoa, I could not learn much of their doings.

It had commenced raining fast when we embarked in our little boat. We had a distance of three miles to sail, but the men rowed hard, and in due time we arrived at Wapoa, opposite the consulate. The consul and Mr. W. met us at the landing, and we were conducted to the residence of the former. This fine mansion is situated on a small elevation, and commands a pleasant view in front. Roses, geraniums and many other beautiful flowers were blooming there, but no lady was to be found to grace so delightful a home. Its residents were not Benedicts, and although we found a handsome house, richly furnished, yet there appeared an air of solitariness, a want of something to perfect the whole. The consul favored us with music, and treated us with refreshments, after which, seeing no signs of pleasant weather, we took our leave, and after a sail of half an hour, arrived home.

23. It rained immoderately all day. As I was conversing with Mrs. C. about the mission families, I inquired if there had ever been a family at that place of the name of Myers. She replied that there had been a merchant of that name, but no missionary. My husband and myself were visiting, about two years since, in Salem, Mass., when a lady said to my husband, "Is it true, Mr. W., that when you were last at New Zealand, you gave my son a bottle and a dollar, and directed him to go on shore, to the store of a missionary, and purchase a bottle of brandy ?" "It is true," replied he; "I inquired of a man on board, who lived on shore, where brandy was to be bought, and he said of Mr. Myers, the missionary. Your son was directed thither; procured the article and brought it on board." Mrs. C. said that could be easily explained. The natives and loafers, who live along the shore, call every one who is not a heathen, a missionary; and use the word as we use the word, " Christian." We say that England and America are Christian lands, and their inhabitants are Christians, yet many are not, in the real sense of the word. So, they will say of any one here who is not a heathen, " He missionary." This brought to my recollection an incident which 1 heard Mr. W. relate a short time previous. On a former voyage to Feejee, a "Kanaka," who was in his service, wished to be discharged, giving as a reason, that he had found some relatives on shore, and he wished to go and live with them. " But," said Mr. W., " these persons live with the missionaries, and you cannot live with them." " Oh, yes I can," he replied, " cause I missionary too." These facts will account for many of the unfavorable reports which come to us from the mission stations.

24. To-day Mrs. C. and family, with several other friends, accompanied Mr. W. and myself to our bark. We showed them our vessel, entertained them according to the best of our ability, and enjoyed a pleasant interview. From the vessel we repaired to the shore, when it was proposed, by one of the party, that we should ascend to the top of Flag-Staff Hill. The proposal being agreed to, we commenced our toilsome way. Some of us said, iS Oh, dear," while others breathed short, but our journey, like every thing else, came to an end; and we reached the spot where England's proud banner waved. About a month since there were signs of a rebellion here, and this flag-staff was cut down by the natives, but was immediately erected by the agents of the

English Government. There is now a great deal of talk about an insurrection; some fear that there is something wrong, while others laugh at their fears, and regard them as groundless. We seated ourselves around the flag-staff just as the sun was sinking into the west, surmounted by a host of resplendent clouds. A spot was pointed out to us where lived a widow with three children about three years since, who were all murdered by a native. She had employed him to get in some sheep which had strayed away; some dispute arose about the pay, and the savage murdered the whole family. He was tried, condemned and hung for the crime. From our elevation we could see several beautiful valleys and bays; the scenery was bold and grand, but there was a want of verdancy to make it beautiful to me. The bright, round, full moon rose in all her pride and glory, and as she lighted us on our way home, I was asked if America could boast of so beautiful a moon. On our arrival home, poor Mr. W. drew a long breath, and remarked that he would never be caught going up another hill like that again. After tea we felt quite rested, and, for myself, I can truly say that I enjoyed the excursion much. 25. This morning I attended the native service in the chapel. About forty natives were present. It was deeply interesting to see those, who were once cannibals, now engaged in the worship of the true God. Two of the worshippers were chiefs, whose faces were entirely disfigured by being tattooed; the lips of the women were also tattooed. Strange taste this for a woman to imagine that blue lips add to her beauty. At 11 o'clock we attended the English services in the chapel. I was truly glad to join once more with the people of God in prayer and praise. The sermon was plain and practical; the subject, the Christian's hope. After the services were concluded, Mr. and Mrs. D. spoke to us, and gave us an invitation to dine with them. There are two chapels here; one is a Catholic, and I believe they have as many converts as the Episcopal. The Episcopal chapel is not yet finished, nor does there seem to be any prospect of it at present. It was once supposed that this place would be the seat of government, but the Governor resides at Auckland, and nearly all the wealthy of this place have removed there.

27. We took leave of our kind friends, and came on board for the purpose of sailing for Feejee; but as there was too much wind for us to get under way, we did not attempt it. Our stay at New Zealand was so short, that I had not opportunity to learn much of the place or its inhabitants. It first greets the eye with a long extension of rocky coast, interspersed here and there with woodland hills and sea-beaches. I have been told that the traveller, as he goes inland, finds the country more level, and some spots very fertile. I could not learn that there were any native vegetables or fruits, except the " kumuru," — a kind of sweet potato. The Irish potato was brought here by Capt. Cook, and is now quite abundant. The climate is between the extremes of heat and cold. The inhabitants are a robust people, with straight, black hair, a broad forehead, and thick lips. The countenances of the men are much disfigured by their practice of tattooing, the females tattoo their lips only. They are an exceedingly impulsive people, seldom, if ever, deliberate, but are governed by the impulse of the moment, regardless of consequences; hence their cruelties are without warning. The gospel is doing something among them; for cannibalism is vanishing, or is practised only in secret.

Dec. 5. After a pleasant passage of ten days we arrived in Feejee, and anchored at an island called Ovalau. It is a beautiful island, mountainous, and covered with verdure. Several canoes are along side, and many natives are on board. They are nearly in a state of nudity; they are of a dark brown color, and appear quite active; hair, when short, resembles the hair of an African, but unlike that of the Africans, it grows quite long, is often dyed yellow, or brown, and dressed in a variety of fashions. We have a chief on board of the name of Verani, or France. About nine years ago there was a French vessel here for the purpose of trade. Verani was on terms of intimacy with the captain, and was on board nearly all the time. The chiefs of Bau compelled him to murder the captain and take the vessel, which he did. The seamen escaped; the natives not knowing how to manage a vessel, soon got it on a reef, and it was broken up. Several white men have for many years been living on the island of Ovalau, but they have been lately driven from their home by the supreme ruler of Bau, and are now settled at a place called Solavu.

6. We sailed round Ovalau and anchored at a small island called Motureke. The schooner Warwick, Capt. Cheever, of Salem, is at this place, and we have been favored with a visit from Capt. C. and Mr. Saunders.

7. We weighed anchor and sailed for Bau, which may with propriety be called the capital of Feejee. The island is small, being only two miles in circumference. A king and many chiefs reside there. The ruling chief is named Thakombau, although Tanoa, his father, is the nominal king, and has been a very powerful one in his time, but is now quite aged and his son bears rule. In the afternoon we received a visit from Thakombau. His Majesty was saluted by the firing of three large guns. He is tall, rather good looking, appears fully aware of his consequence, and is not destitute of dignity. He wore an enormous quantity of hair on his head, and several yards of native cloth around his body; he was attended by a crowd of his officers of state. He came on board in a very angry mood, from the following causes: — Bau, it seems, is at enmity with the king of Revva. Capt. Hartwell, commander of the brig Gambia, of Salem, came to Rewa, engaged some Rewa men, and a white man, who has made himself particularly obnoxious to Bau, to fish for him. He then came to Bau, keeping it secret from him that he had any thing to do with Rewa, and obtained some Vewa men to go to Ba in his service. After he went, the white man from Rewa persuaded Capt. H. to send the Vewa people home, which was an imprudent act, as Vewa is one with Bau, and if the latter is insulted, they possess the power to ruin Capt. H.'s voyage. Thakombau said that Capt. H. had come here and made a fool of him, and that Capt. Wallis would do the same; he wished them both to go to Rewa for their cargo, for he would have nothing to do with either; they were both one concern. Mr. W. told him that he had nothing to do with Capt. HartwelPs conduct, nor should he have any thing to do with the enemies of Bau. At length, after a long conversation and many presents, he became pacified; but declared that he would go to Ba, kill the Rewa men, and burn the " beech de mer " houses. After this declaration he sent a messenger on shore to tell his people to prepare for the hostile expedition. When the conversation was ended, His Majesty condescended to notice my humble self. He took a seat on the sofa, gazed at me, then took my hand and held it up, that his people might see how white it was (by contrast, I presume). He left the vessel about dark.

8. Rev. J. Hunt, missionary at Vewa, called on us, and invited us to visit him. A missionary station was established in Vevva in 1839, by Rev. Wm. Cross. Mr. Hunt came here in 1842, and has labored since that time in the gospel, with much success. His manners were so easy, that we felt acquainted with him at first; he remained with us to dinner, and we had a delightful interview. Thakombau and suite made us another visit to-day.

10. To-day we visited Vewa. There are three missionary families residing at the place: — Mr. and Mrs. Jaggar, and Mr. and Mrs. Watsford, with their families, besides Mr. and Mrs. Hunt, who have one child. Messrs. Jaggar and Watsford were stationed at Rewa, but have been obliged to leave on account of the war.

17. Thakombau has gone to Ba with a fleet of thirty canoes, well filled with warriors. After the fleet had sailed, Samonunu, the principal wife of Thakombau, with several of her women, came off to the vessel to visit us. When she saw me, she caught both of my hands in hers, and exclaimed, " Venaka,venaka" — " good, good." She is of quite a light color, as were several that were with her; rather fleshy, but has a fine eye and handsome features; her hair was nicely dressed, and powdered with the ashes of the burnt bread-fruit leaves. She expressed a strong desire that I should go to Bau and live; after begging all that they could obtain, and stealing my best scissors, they departed. Our visitors had not reached Bau, when we were honored with a visit from the old King Tanoa. I must confess that his personal appearance is not very imposing; he is small of stature, and now rather deaf; his beard, however, was rather imposing, being about half a yard in length, and very white, though I am told that he usually has it dyed black. He has the reputation of being one of the greatest cannibals in Feejee. Owing to his age and infirmities, he seldom visits the vessels that come to Bau, but as Mr. W. is an old and particular friend of His Highness, we are specially honored.

18. Mr. W., intending to visit the Mathuata coast, and the season being unfavorable for me to accompany him, arrangements have been made for me to remain at Vewa for the present, Mr. and Mrs. Hunt having kindly consented to receive me into their family. The Zotoff sails to-morrow.

21. The warriors have returned without doing much harm. When the hostile fleet first made their appearance at Ba, the Rewa men fled, and the white man ran to the mast-head of the Gambia, and tried to hide himself. The warriors destroyed all the canoes they could find, and then went on board the Gambia. Thakombau soon espied the white man, and said, 6S Do you think that we cannot reach you where you are ? It is a very small thing to shoot you if we wish." Capt. H. promised to send all the Rewa men home; and Thakombau, that he would trouble them no more; and thus ended the affair. Vewa is a small island, about three miles in circumference, and one mile from Bau. There is not a level spot comprising one acre of land on the island. Between the hills, there is here and there a little dale. The island is covered with a variety of beautiful trees, shrubs and creeping plants. There are two towns, containing about 300 inhabitants. Each town is governed by a chief; the younger chief, however, is in subjection to the elder. The principal, or head chief, is named Namosimalua; his nephew, the second chief, is our friend Verani. The houses are built of thatch. Mr. Hunt has commenced a building of stone ; the mission families, however, now occupy native houses, with the added conveniences of wooden doors and glass windows.

22. Attended Divine service in the native chapel. About 200 natives were assembled to worship the true God. It was truly a pleasant thing to see so many of the cannibal race engage with such apparent devotion in the religious exercises of the Sabbath. One thing amused me much. The chief had provided a man to keep the drowsy ones awake, and the children in order. The natives were seated on mats, and the anti-sleeper was continually threading his way between them, with a small stick in his hand, which he never failed to use as occasion required. The Sabbath begins with a prayer meeting at sunrise; at nine o'clock the native service commences; at twelve, there is preaching in English; at four, P. M., preaching in native, and at seven, preaching in Touguese. During the intervals between the public services, the sounds of prayer and praise are heard from almost every dwelling. I understand that from the following causes, may be dated the introduction of the gospel at Vewa. About two years after the murder of the French captain, two French men-of-war came and destroyed the houses and plantations on Vewa. When the vessels first came in sight, the inhabitants suspected who they were, but the priest said to the chief, " Do not fear, no harm will come to you; the things that you see are animals that I have ordered to come here." Whatever may have formerly been their confidence in their priest, they did not believe this story, and hastened their preparations for escaping to the main land, which is quite near. After all had been prepared, and the frightened natives were crowding on board the canoes, there was the priest, as anxious as any one, to flee for his life. " What are you here for?" said the chief; " Stay, and entertain the huge animals that you have ordered to come." The wise man declined the honor, and departed with the rest. After the departure of the vessels, the two chiefs, with their people, returned to Vewa, where all was desolation, which they had richly deserved. Namosimalua had now no confidence in the gods of Feejee, since they could not save their temple from heing burnt. About this time, a man who had been in the service of Rev. Mr. Cross, told one of the Vewa men, that if Namosimalua would become a Christian, the French would never seek to harm him. The speech was carried to the chief, who immediately sent to Mr. Cross to know if it was true. Mr. Cross replied, that if he became a Christian, he thought that neither French nor English would give him any farther trouble. As soon as the messenger returned, Namosimalua, and a few of his people, immediately renounced heathenism, and a teacher was sent to the place. Verani still continues a heathen; and Namosimalua has never yet been admitted as a member of the church, Ifrut is merely a nominal Christian.

24. Vatai, the head wife of Namosimalua, with several of her attendants and myself, ascended and descended some of the hills of Vewa. Truly, I thought, nature has abundantly clothed every thing here. How stupid of man not to learn! The bread-fruit tree is very abundant on this island; also the eva, which, when in blossom, emits a delightful odor. Arrow-root, ginger and cotton, grow here in small quantities.

25. Christmas day. This morning my slumbers were broken by a little band of choristers, singing the songs of Zion. The missionaries have taught the little tawnies this beautiful custom, which is still extant in many parts of England. At sunrise, I listened to the sweet voice of Mrs. Hunt, as she sung, " Christian, Awake!" In the evening, Mrs. Hunt invited the singers to partake of some tea and cake. They prayed and sung, ate their cake, drank their tea, and went home.

27. Thakombau has honored Vewa with a visit. He went into the school, and seemed pleased; said "it was good to learn to read." He has acquired more influence in Feejee, than any other chief.