The bear-worshippers of Yezo and the island of Karafuto (Saghalin)

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Preface

IN " Young Americans in Japan," I gave some account of the southern parts of the empire; and, in "The Wonderful City of Tokio," described the various sights, and the arts and manufactures, for which the capital is famous.

The present volume, the last of the series, is devoted to the manners and customs of the bear-worshippers of Yezo, and of the five tribes inhabiting Karafuto (Saghalin). When I first visited the latter island, in 1853, it was a portion of the Empire of Japan; but in 1875 it was ceded to Russia, in exchange for the Chishima (Kurile) Islands. I spent nearly a year cruising in the northern waters, and during that time became well acquainted with the people of Karafuto and Yezo ; on one occasion travelling with a boat's crew from Soya to Hakodate, and being the guest of the fierce-visaged but gentle savages.

Since then Russia has made a penal settlement of Karafuto, and two-thirds of the natives have nominally become Christians.

When I was in Japan, last summer, I made the acquaintance of His Excellency Kunemichi Kitagaki, the governor of Saikio (Kioto), who was for some years an official in the Kaitakushi (Department of Development) of the Hokkaido (North Sea Circuit). From him I learned many interesting particulars relating to the progress made by the Ainos in agriculture, etc. ; and I have his authority for stating that the natives who left Karafuto when the island was ceded to Russia, and who have settled in Sapporo, were not compelled to quit their native land, but elected to do so rather than change their nationality.

VI

PREFACE.

This book was written to give some information concerning a quaint people that are almost unknown to my countrymen, and who, like our Indians, are rapidly disappearing from the face of the earth.

20 East 17TH Street, New York, 1883.

NOTES.

THE illustrations of this volume are, with a few exceptions, by- Japanese artists, and are exceedingly graphic and correct. I found great difficulty in obtaining pictures of the scenery of such remote places as Yezo and Karafuto, and, but for the assistance and interest taken in the work by many Japanese friends, would have been compelled to relinquish the task. Foremost among those who came to my aid were the Hon. S. K. Takahashi, Japanese consul in this city ; and Messrs. K. Okui of the consulate of New York ; Tatszgoro Nosse of the Kencho, Yokohama; and Ichiske Hamada of Kagoshima, — to all of whom I return my very best thanks.

Mr. Hamada has also rendered me valuable help in searching various authorities, and in copying some curious pictures, illustrating the peculiar worship of the Ainos, from five makivwno (scrolls) formerly belonging to a dainiio of Mito. The woodcuts I have reproduced were taken from three interesting works ; viz., " Kita Yezo " (North Yezo), " Higashi Yezo, Yoro monogatari " (Night Stories of Eastern Yezo), and " Karafuto Niki " (Journal of Travel in Karafuto). These volumes also contain much information concerning the inhabitants of the two islands.

To Professor H. S. Munroe, of Columbia College, I am greatly indebted for the loan of a valuable collection of photographs of the Ainos.

The central picture on the cover represents a group of Yezo children engaged in a game played by throwing a hoop into the air, and catching it upon a stick. The bearded savage in the lower corner is an Aino whittling inaho (god-sticks). The figure wrestling with a bear

VUI NOTES.

is referred to in Chapter VIII. The design in the left upper corner frames the Japanese title Kuina Matsiiri (literally, Bear-Festival), and upon the red fan I have placed my kaki-han (written seal) and my initials.

EDWARD GREEY.

Contents

Chapter. Page.

I. Bound for the Far North i

II. Hakodate 21

Chapter I. Bound For The Far North

" The frog in the well has no idea of the great ocean, still he imagines he knows every thing. Mizuno of Ota had never been out of his native village; yet when he was told abotit the Yezo-jin {Aino) lie laughed, and replied, '■Such tales are very good for children : as for vie, I am not acquainted with any one who worships a bear.''''

THE morning sun was rising over the house-tops at the back of the Jewetts' residence in the Kaga Yashiki, Tokio, as Fitz Jewett summoned his brother and sister, saying, —

" Hi-yaku " (hurry upj, " SalHe and Johnnie ! Choso's boy, Tatszgoro, is wrestHng with Httle Mankichi ! Do come and take a peep at them."

The young people proceeded to a room overlooking the yard, and, pushing aside the shoji (paper-filled window-screen), beheld two Japanese children engaged in what may be termed the national pastime. They had spread a rush mat on the ground, and tied a bamboo across the entrance to the yard in order to keep spectators from approaching too near and interfering with the exhibition.

Tatszgoro, whose head was shaven in patches, was a chubbyfaced, brown-skinned, black-eyed, merry fellow ; and Mankichi was as like him as one bean is to another.

On seeing the Jewetts, Tatszgoro walked round and slapped his limbs like a Japanese wrestler, then crouched on the eastern

TATSZGORO AND MANKICHI WRESTLING.

end of the mat, clinched his fists, and rested upon them and his toes, on all fours.

Mankichi took his place on the western end of the mat, and posed exactly as his comrade had done.

" Shall I be gioshi ? " (umpire), cried Fitz.

" Hai, sama ./" (yes, sir), responded the boys, ducking their heads respectfully.

Fitz borrowed his sister's fan, stepped into the veranda, and, addressing the spectators, said, —

BOUND FOR THE FAR NORTH. 3

"You are about to enjoy a great treat. Tatszgoro is a very skilful wrestler : his fame is known all over our house ; he is the champion of the East. Mankichi, who is no less celebrated, is the rampant roarer of the West. Now hold your breath."

'' Hai! hai ! hai !'' laughingly responded the lookers-on, among whom were Gosuke and Shobei the jin-riki-sha men, old Sokichi the gardener, and the mombans wife. The latter wore high clogs, and carried her babe on her back.

While Fitz was speaking, the little wrestlers had remained perfectly still with their eyes respectfully cast downward.

The boy waved his fan, after the manner of the gioshi, then said in a commanding voice, —

** Mi a washi ta tokorode'" (look at each other).

The children obeyed.

'' Sa!'' (begin), he shouted, stepping back a pace.

The contestants rose quickly, grasped one another by the hands, and proceeded to wrestle like the fat athletes at Ekoin.^

" Is it not fun ! " observed Sallie, who was resting her chin on Johnnie's shoulder. "I do not believe the real sumotori do any better."

When Mankichi grasped Tatszgoro incorrectly, Fitz shook his fan, and yelled,^ —

'' Matai ! matai ! matai !'' (stop, stop, stop).

On hearing this command, the little fellows relaxed their grip, and retired to their respective places.

After a while Tatszgoro caught Mankichi in a peculiar way, and lifted him off the ground ; then suddenly knelt, and pressed his opponent's shoulders flat upon the mat, thus gaining the

' Vide p. 147, "Wonderful City of Tokio."

THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO.

victory. This so delighted Fitz, that he danced round and round the combatants, and, taking off his jacket, threw it to Tatszgoro, crying, —

" I will redeem that with ten cents' worth of candy. Yuke, yuke " (go on).

Instead of complying, the children rushed in-doors, and

the Japanese spectators made* off with great precipitation. The young Americans turned to ascertain the cause, and beheld a Yashiki policeman, who was hated by the servants on account of his arrogant ways.

He swaggered past the house as though the place belonged to him, and seemed to be suffering from sake.

"I do not like that man," said Sallie. " He frightens the children, and the other day he arrested my cat. No wonder the little ones are afraid of him."

While they were speaking they heard their father calling for them. Presently Professor Jewett and his wife entered the room; and the former said, —

" I have news for you. A government steamer leaves for Yezo at four o'clock, and we are going in her. Make haste : there is no time to lose."

" I have had my trunk packed for the last month, sir," said Fitz. " We are ready to go right away."

At noon the Professor and his family started in their jiniJsS^-"

THE YASHIKI POLICEMAN:

BOUND FOR THE FAR NORTH.

riki-sha for the Shimbashi depot, a dozen servants following with the bao-p-aee.

They took the train for Yokohama, and arrived at the settlement about two o'clock. The Professor, being upon government duty, was met by Capt. Imadate, who escorted them to his boat, which was lying alongside the English hatoba (wharf) . Soon they were being rowed swiftly to the Japanese man-ofwar, in which they were to embark, and within an hour were steaming down the Bay of Yedo.

The vessel was entirely officered and manned by Nihonese, and the discipline was perfect. There was a detachment of troops on board ; and as soon as the vessel was under way, the soldiers were mustered, and the roll called.

" How badly their clothes fit them ! " remarked Fitz. " The pants look as though they were made by machinery."

''They can fight, spite of their clumsy looks," retorted Johnnie. ** After all, I have seen foreign soldiers who were not any better dressed than these, and who could not fight a bit."

The men were drilled, then dismissed; after which the colonel approached the Jewetts, and said, —

" We are going to land at Sendai, and shall not have the pleasure of accompanying you to Hakodate. Do you know that your friend Dr. Nambo will join you there ? He embarked by the steamer that preceded us." ,

JAPANESE INFANTRY SOLDIER.

THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO.

" Yes, I am aware that the doctor will be one of our party," answered the Professor. " I do not believe my family would enjoy the trip north unless our friend accompanied us."

"For what are we slowing up?" inquired Fitz ; "and why are the people clustering in the bow ? "

" Come and see," said the colonel. " I think we have stopped in order to avoid running down a fishing-craft."

They went forward, and beheld a most interesting sight, — fishermen hauling in their net, which was alive with enormous

The men worked with a will, and soon the gigantic net was drawn on board ; then sail was trimmed, and the fune (junkj and steamer rapidly parted company.

" We should starve without those fellows," said the captain.

" There is not a mile of water belonging to the Japanese Empire that is not searched for

I HE MRIN.

food. We pride ourselves upon the ability of our fishermen."

"Dinner is ready, Sama,'' said the captain's steward, saluting respectfully.

"And so am I ! " exclaimed Fitz. "The salt air has made me very hungry."

Upon descending to the saloon they found the table spread in foreign fashion, and soon every one was enjoying the repast.

" Why do you have the kirin carved upon the woodwork?" inquired Johnnie.

" It is often used in conjunction with the kiri-mon " (imperial crest), answered the commander. " Some people believe it to be the guardian of the imperial family. Being a sailor, I do not know much about these things."

After dinner they adjourned to the quarter-deck, and listened to the band, which entertained them with native and foreign airs.

At ten o'clock they retired ; and soon the thud of the screw, and the lapping of the waves against the ship's side, were the only sounds that broke the stillness of the night.

About two A.M., Fitz awoke, and, looking through the port, saw lights flickering upon the water ; whereupon he roused his brother, remarking, —

" Say, Johnnie, let us go on deck and see the fun. We are approaching a narrow channel between the mainland and some islands, and I want to learn how those fellows work their torches."

The lads put on their Japanese khnono, which they wore as dressing-gowns, and proceeded up the companion-ladder ; at the top of which they were greeted by the first lieutenant, who said, —

'' Ohayo !'' ("you are early," equivalent to our "goodmorning.") "Are your beds too hard?" '^ "Oh, no!" answered Johnnie. "This scene is too interesting to miss."

They approached the ship's side, and, as the vessel threaded her way among the boats, watched the fishermen at their occupation.

In the bow of each craft was an iron cresset, that projected about a yard from the side, and in which burned pine-knots and other inflammable kindling, that flared and attracted the lO

THE BEAR-WORSHIPPERS OF YEZO.

fishes. The men all wore broad bamboo hats and blue cotton shirts, and had straw coats tied about their waists. They fished with lines, and the sinkers were tied within a foot of the hooks. When a big fish was caught, the captor would yell exultingly, and boast about the size of his prize. " Phew ! " said Fitz, " what an unpleasant odor ! " "It is the clams they use for bait," said the first lieutenant, " The fish like them when they are very stale." " So I should think," grimly observed Johnnie. The air was too cool to allow them to remain on deck with any pleasure : so the boys presently returned to their beds, and

w^ere soon once more fast asleep.

When they awoke they found that the vessel was running along the coast, which was very romantic and beautiful.

On the morning of the second day they anchored in the Bay of Sendai, and the American party went on shore.

Upon approaching the landing-place, they were saluted by Dr. Oto Nambo, who said, imitating the New- England drawl of an old fisherman at Cromlech, —

" We 11, I thought you was never coming."

"Who is your friend?" asked Johnnie in English, indicating a soldier who was seated on the wharf behind Oto.

" He Is a cavalryman, one of my patients," said Oto jocosely. " Do not be rude to me, or he may cut off your head. He was formerly a ronmy

" I should think so," said Fitz. " In the olden times the

JAPANESE CAVALRY SOLDIER.

BOUND FOR THE FAR NORTH.

II ronin disguised themselves by wearing hats that concealed their faces : now they are completely lost in their boots."

" Do hush, Fitz," whispered Sallie. " Perhaps he can understand English."

Oto helped them on shore, then said, —

" I am real glad to see you all. The ship will remain here for a day, so you will have time to visit the awabi fishery."

A STREET IN SENDAl.

" What a queer old street ! " said Sallie, as they ascended the main thoroughfare. " I should die if I had to live in such a place as this."

" Then you would not have to live here," quietly answered Johnnie. " Sallie is always going to die when every thing is not in apple-pie order."

They ascended the steps of the street, and, turning to the left, entered a Japanese yadoya (inn), where they found an excellent repast had been prepared for them.

"Oh, baked beans!" shouted the irrepressible. "This is what I call a civilized place."

When the meal was over, the party engaged jin-inki-sha, and rode along the coast until they reached the scene of the awabi fishery, — a rocky promontory round which were moored a number of boats.

Professor Jewett, who was somewhat fond of lecturing, turned to his children, and said, —

" The awabi, or rather the haliotis htberctdata, commonly called the sea-ear, is a univalve shell-fish, which is gathered from the sides of rocks that are always submerged."

" Please spare us. Professor," murmured Mrs. Jewett, who feared a prolonged dissertation on conchology. " I believe the children are pretty well posted."

" Yes, mother," said Fitz, with a nod. " We have had all the varieties of haliotis for breakfast, tiffin, and dinner. Guess we will recognize them when we see them."

The Professor stroked his beard, but did not continue his remarks ; then, seating himself upon the rocks, watched the fishing.

The boats were secured close to the shore, and were already somewhat heavily laden with awabi. Each craft carried two divers ; excepting the one at the extreme end of the point, from which Oto informed them a man had been lost on the previous day. "Eaten by an octopus'' (devil-fish), he sententiously remarked. "That is his little boy in the boat: do you not notice how sad he looks ? "

The divers wore what Fitz termed straw waistcoats : otherwise they were lightly clad. They stood in the bows of their boats, and, after securing ropes about their bodies, dived headlong into the waves. Each carried an iron instrument in his girdle with which to detach the awabi from the rocks.

The Americans watched the men with great interest, and saw them crawl along the bottom of the sea and secure the coveted prizes. Upon reaching the surface they handed the fish to their comrades, who put them in baskets, and commented as follows : —

"That is a very large one," or otherwise: "I like a man who keeps his eyes open under water. Now, good friend, take a long breath, and descend again. The days are short, and we want to make all the money we can."

The party spent about an hour seeing the divers, then followed Oto to a nook in which men, women, and children were busy preparing the azvabi for market.

When the boats filled with fish were landed on the beach, they were unloaded by men, who, as they worked, uttered loud cries, and bore the baskets to mats spread upon the sand.

The awabi has gristly flesh, like a little-neck clam. The fish that are not despatched fresh to the market are pared, like apples, into long strips, which are laid on mats, and dried in the sun and air.

Everybody was very busy, — some paring, others spreading the strips on mats, and the remainder of the party packing the dried fish. All were full of fun, and seemed to make a picnic of the business.

The scene was certainly an animated one ; but the odor was not pleasant, so the spectators did not remain very long.

As they walked back to Sendai, Sallie remarked, —

" I do not believe your fishermen possess the sense of smell, or they never could bear what they do."

" Oh ! I do not know so much about that," quietly responded Oto. " I recollect feeling quite overpowered by the perfume of the menhaden -oil factories of Gloucester."

1 6 THE BEAR-WORSHIPFERS OF YEZO.

" Yes," said Fitz, with a chuckle. " Do you remember, when you remarked about the scent, the proprietor told you that the money he earned by the business was sweet ? "

Sallie smiled, nodded, and said, —

" I suppose there is really not much difference between the Japanese and American fish-business."

Upon turning a point of the coast, they beheld a most animated scene. Four boats, manned by lightly clad fishermen, were working a net in which they had just made a haul of tai, a kind of shad. The net was secured to two boats, and the fish were being taken from it with scoops shaped like those used to catch butterflies. As one boat was filled, it was rowed to the shore, emptied, and hurried back to the scene of operation.

" Gracious ! are they not excited ? " exclaimed Sallie.

"There is money in it," said Johnnie, "Each tai is worth five sen to the men. They do not make such a haul every day. You shout, do you not, when you catch a fish ? "

" No, she screams," said Fitz. " She says, ' I cannot touch it ! Take it away : it will bite me ! ' "

*' Do not tease me, brother," pleaded Sallie. " You know I dislike to give any thing pain."

" Come," said the Professor, " I think we had better be moving. I do not know how you feel : I am hungry."

" Well, sir, I would not object to a planked shad myself," said Fitz. " I vote we secure some."

Upon asking the fishermen the price, they said one yen (dollar) each, and they would not take any less.

"Then we will go without," said Mrs. Jewett. "I think it is an imposition to ask more here than they do in the Tokio market."

As the party moved away, the fishermen called out, —

" You may have as many as you want for ten cents each."

When the foreigners had gone a Httle distance, a woman ran after them with a string of the finest tai, and, smiUng, said, —

" Please accept these, and give us any thing you Hke."

" Give her a chW (note to be paid by their house-steward in Tokio), said Fitz.

Every one laughed at this ; and a bargain was made with the woman, who, for twenty-five sen, agreed to carry the tai to Sendai.

When the travellers neared the town, they noticed a great many rows of stakes driven in the water along the flat portions of the shore.

" Those are oyster and mussel farms," said Oto. " Millions of bushels are annually raised in this manner. Tall bamboos are driven into the mud, and formed into barriers, to which the shell-fish readily attach themselves. When the tide is coming in, the doors of the enclosures are opened ; and as soon as it begins to turn, they are closed again in order to cut off the retreat of the fishes. At low water the owners of the pound enter it, and secure their victims, and rake off whatever shell-fish they require. This method is pursued all round the coast of Japan and Yezo, and is a source of great wealth ; the oysterfarmers paying a tax to the government."

" It seems to me, in Japan, every thing pays a tax to the government," remarked Fitz.

" Yes, we tax a good many articles," quietly replied Oto ; " and so do you, if my memory serves me rightly. I think it ought to convince you how closely we have copied American customs."

Fitz whistled, then made a grimace as though he wished he had not spoken.

They soon after entered their: J in-riki-s ha, and were rapidly conveyed to the inn ; on nearing which the Professor sniffed, and remarked, —

" I smell the odor of the serranus marginalis."

His surmise proved to be correct ; among the dishes served being a fine specimen of the tai they had seen caught that afternoon.

At ten o'clock the next morning the party re-embarked on board the man-of-war, and started up the coast.