Travels in Central America, being a journal of nearly three years' residence in the country

Preface

The object of this work is to furnish the English reader with some trustworthy information respecting Central America, a portion of the world almost unknown in England. It consists chiefly of extracts e rom the Author's private journal, and contains a >rief sketch of the history of the Republic of Central America, from its origin to the present time ; together with an account of the most remarkable phenomena and productions, and the present state of its society, agriculture, and commerce. During its completion the Author had not at hand any of the works which treat of Central America ; but this is the less to be regretted, as the only publications he has seen relating to it were merely notices of hurried travels through the country, which, while abounding with palpable inaccuracies, contained no statistical or useful information of any description.

GUATEMAI/A,

December, 1846.

The last sheet of this work had scarcely passed through the press, when intelligence was received of

VI PREFACE.

the Author's death. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to give a sketch of his short but eventful career ; but a few words may be permitted to the Editor, and may be not without interest to the reader.

Robert Glasgow Dunlop was born at Seafield, near Ayr, in August, 1815. He was the seventh and youngest son of John Dunlop, then third surviving son of John Dunlop of Dunlop, and consequently a grandson of Mrs. Dunlop, the first kind patroness of the poet Burns. After enjoying the usual education afforded by a Scotch parochial school, he joined the London University, and made great progress in the study of Latin and Mathematics. His fondness, too, for History, Poetry, and Classical Literature was extreme, and so great was his power of application, that he found leisure to attain considerable proficiency in Chemistry, Botany, Zoology, and other branches of science. His academical studies over, he entered a mercantile office. He soon transferred the same zeal and acumen to his new pursuit, and, after a short initiation into business in London and elsewhere, he eventually repaired to Guatemala. *****

From early boyhood he studied and was intimately acquainted with the Bible, and, though fondly attached to the Presbyterian faith, in which he was educated, he could sympathise with all who read and obeyed the word of God. Though reserved, and too nervously sensitive to allow his feelings to be scanned by the rude or careless, his heart expanded

PKEFACE. Vll

in love to every object of creation ; and the love of truth, which characterised him even in infancy, continued to be cherished by him in manhood, and must stamp a value on the pages now given to the world. Repeated attacks of fever, common to the country in which he had made his home, severely tried his always delicate constitution, and after a month's illness he expired on the first of January, 1847. Pie is the sixth of seven brothers who rest in a foreign soil.

London, 18th June, 1847.

Chapter I. I

Voyage from Guayaquil and Arrival in. Central America. — Description of the Port of the Union. — Voyage to Nacascolo. — Description of old and new Chinendega. — Leon and Realejo. — Sugar and Indigo Estate of Don Bernardo Venereo. — Return to Nacascolo. — Ascent of the Volcano of Cosiguina and Description of its Eruption in 1835. — San Miguel. — Account of Indigo growing. — Port of Realejo, with Notices of the Canal of Nicaragua - Page 1

Chap. II

Voyage to Punta Arenas. — Coast of Nicoya, Punta Arenas. — Journey to, and Description of San Jose, Alhajulea, and Heridia. — Cultivation of CofFee. — Visit to Cartago and Ascent of the Volcano. — Return to Punta Arenas. — Arrival at Realejo and Chinendega. — War with Honduras. — H. B. S. Ship Daphne. — Blockade of the Union. — Ascent of the Volcano of Conchagua. — Journey to Guatemala with a Description of the Towns of San Salvador and Sonsonate, and the Volcano of Isalco 39

Chap. III

Description of Guatemala. — General Carrera. — Journey to Old Guatemala and Description of the City and its Vicinity. — Departure from Guatemala. — Dangerous Mistake. — Journey to the Union. — War between San Salvador and Nicaragua. — Departure from the Union. — Arrival at Realejo. — Warlike Operations. — Acajantla. — taken for Spies. — Arrival at and Departure from Sonsonate. — A Night in the Woods. — Arrival at Guatemala. — Insurrection of 2nd Feb. 1845 - - - 75

Vlll CONTENTS.

Chap. IV

Departure from Guatemala. — Encounter with Robbers. — Arrival at San Miguel, and Return to Guatemala. — Description of Amatitlan. — Extraordinary Proximity of Volcanic Fires. — A Lake and River heated by them. — Cultivation of Cochineal Estates, and Process of raising the Insect in Amatitlan and Old Guatemala. — Towns near Amatitlan. — Ascent of the Volcano of Tormentos. — Journey to San Miguel, and Return to Amatitlan. — A Guatemala Noble. — Feast of Amatitlan - - - Page 112

Articles of Food. — Houses and Furniture. — Value of Land and Houses. — Belgian Colony of Saint Thomas. — Commerce. — Revenue. — Customs. — Currency. — Debt. — Ports. — Rivers and Lakes - 294