Across the Jordon

Front matter

*

Map of

*an & Eastern j au ikh from th.e Surveys of

Preface

The circumstances which made the following work possible are these :

About a year ago a firman was granted giving leave to survey the district lyingbetween Damacus and Haifa, with a view to the construction of a railway. The concessionnaires appointed as their surveyor for the portion of country east of the Jordan Herr Gottlieb Schumacher, that part lying between Haifa and the River having been already surveyed by the officers of this Society for their great Map of Western Palestine. In the course of his work Herr Schumacher found it necessary, as well as possible, to make many scientific observations, notes, maps, and drawings which he afterwards embodied in the memoir which forms the greater part of this volume. The Map, a reduction of which is here published, covers an area of 240 square miles, partly in the Hauran,

IV

PREFACE.

partly in the Jaulan, a district never before surveyed, and very seldom crossed by the traveller. With the view of giving a more permanent form to the already published papers by Mr. Laurence Oliphant and Mr Guy le Strange on their own travels in trans- Jordanic country, they are incorporated with the volume. The best thanks of the Society are due to Mr. Guy le Strange for the trouble he has taken in editing the volume. Herr Schumacher sent home his memoir, written in English, which naturally required, here and there, the change of an idiom. Mr. Le Strange has also provided the Index. The beautiful and careful illustrations which enrich this volume, have all been specially made from Herr Schumacher's own drawings and plans. They will be found in no way inferior to those drawn for the Memoirs of the Survey by the officers who executed that great work. They are not only drawn and engraved for this work, but they are also, for the most part, entirely new, representing ruins and sites never before sketched or surveyed.

Herr Schumacher has been enabled to survey for the Society another portion of the country, the maps and memoirs of which are expected very shortly.

PREFACE.

It is necessary to add, and to insist strongly, that in this, as in every other publication of the Society, all identifications, theories, and speculations belong to the writer and must not be considered or criticized as the work of the Society. The Palestine Exploration Fund advances as its own work, newly discovered facts, in the shape of maps, plans, sketches, observations, inscriptions, etc., but is in no way responsible for any conclusions which may be drawn from them, either by the explorer or by his readers.

W. B.

i, Adam Street, Adelphi, November 20, 1885.

Contents

AN EXPLORATION AND SURVEY OF PART OF JAULAN AND HAURAN By G. Schumacher, C.E.

Chapter I. General Physical Characteristics

PAGE

The plateau of Eastern Jaulan and Western Hauran — Jurisdiction of the Lieutenant-Governor or Mutasarrif of Hauran — Boundaries.

I. Eastern Jaalan or Ez Zawiyeh esh Shurkiyeh — Its limits — Highest and lowest points — The Bedawin Szar, or sheepfolds — Geological formation — Trees — Soil and climate — Gorges — Cliffs — Tell el Ehdeib — Watershed — Perennial streams : (i) The Shari'at el Menadireh — The names Ehreir, 'Irak, Yarmuk, and Hieromax — Its course — Tributaries — The Wady Ku'eilby, the Wady ez Zeyyatin, and the Wady Keleit— The 'Arab el Menadireh— Mills.

(2) The Nahr er Rukkad — Its course — The Jisr er Rukkad — Tributaries — Wady Seisun — Waterfall.

(3) The Nahr el 'Allan— Its course— The Jisr el 'Allan— Wady Beit Akkar — El Ghadir — Wady ej Jebeleh — Roads — Roman road — Paths.

viii

CONTENTS.

2. Western Haurdn — Its limits — Geological formation — Soil — Extinct volcanoes — Cultivation — Bedavvin— Crops — Price of Corn — Proposed railway — Trees — Watershed — Perennial streams. (i) Wady el Ehreir, or 'Irak (Yarmuk and Hieromax) — Its course — Gorge of the Ehreir. (2) Wady el Bajjeh — Its course — Bahret el Bajjeh — Waterfall — Becomes Wady Tell esh Shehab or Wady et Tell — Mills. (3) Moyet Zeizun — Its course — Bahret Zeizun. (4) Wady esh Shefeil. (5) Wady el Yabis — Becomes Wady Kefr es Samir. (6) Moyet en Neby Ayyub or Moyet esh Sheikh Sa 1 ad — Its course — Trees planted along its banks. (7) Wady el Lubwah — Mills. (8) Wady el 'Ajamy— Bahret el 'Ajamy. (9) Wfidy Babis. (10) Wady Jebeleh. (11) El Emshiyad;it — Bahret el Ash'ary — Mills. (12) Wady el Emheiris. (13) Wady esh Shelaleh — Roads — The Darb el Hajj — Telegraph — Villages marked on the map. 1-40

Chapter II. Eastern Jaulan

Villages, ruins, and names met with in the district of Ez Zawiyeh esh Shurkiyeh or Eastern Jaulan. 41-102

Chapter III. Western Hauran

Villages, ruins, names of places, and Bedawin tribes met with in the district of Western Hauran. 103-242

CONTENTS.

ix

A TRIP TO THE NORTH-EAST OF LAKE TIBERIAS, IN J A ULAN By Laurence Oliphant.

PAGE

El 'Araj — EtTell— Bethsaida-Julias— The site of the Miracle of the Five Loaves and Two Fishes — Mes'adiyeh — Ruin of synagogue at Ed Dikkeh — Carved stones — Umm El'Ajaj — El Hasaniyeh — Ruins — Wady ed Dalieh — Wady Jeramaya — W&dy Shukeyif — El 'Akib — Ruins — Dukah Kefr 'Akib — Wady es Samak — Proposed line of railway— El 'Adeseh — Ruins — Village of El 'Al — Statue, representing possibly Diana — Nab — Ez Zeituneh — Khisfin — Crusading and other ruins — Esfera spring — Tell el Muntar — Dolmens — Baldwin's Castle — Umm el Kanatir— Ruin of Synagogue — Greek inscriptions from Tiberias. 243-267

A RIDE THROUGH' AJLUN AND THE BELKA DURING THE AUTUMN OF 1884.

By Guy le Strange.

Khan el Ahmar — Goliath's River — Beisan — The Ghor — Pella or Tabakat Fahl — Springs — Necropolis Wady Yabis — Jedeidah — Urjan — Forest of 'Ajlun — Cisterns and ruins — Town of 'Ajlun — Mosque and Minaret — The use of a hammock — The Castle of Rabad — View over the Jordan Valley and mountains of 'Ajlun— Cavern— 'Ain Janna — Extracting of olive oil — Suf — Coins — Ruins — Deir el Leyyeh — Jerash or Gerasa — Circassian colonists — Neby Hud — The road from Jerash to 'Amman — Wady Riyashi — ZerkS, river, the Biblical Jabbok — Og and Sihon — Bedawin camp — Yenbut and oleanders — Village of 'Aluk— ' Arab Circles' — Sarruj — Camp of Beni Hasan

X

CONTENTS.

— Wady Khalla — Bell-wethers — Khurbet er Rumaneh — Bedawin camp — Columns — Roman road — Camp of 'Adw&n — Ruins of Yajuz — Tomb of Sheikh Nimr of the 'Adwan — The depressed plain called Hemel Belka — Ploughing with camels — 'Amman, the Circassian colonists — The subterranean city of Rahab — Ar Rakim, and the Story of the Seven Sleepers — Khurbet Sar — Caves — Circassian village — Wady Sir — 'Arab Circles' — 'Arak el Emir and its ruins— Umm el Madaris — Camp of Beni 'Abbad — View over Jericho plain — Zoar, Segor, Sughar, and Tell [esh Shaghur — Jordan ford — Jerusalem. 268-323

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

ago

FIG. PAGK

1. Section of Roman Road near 'Ain Dakkar - 19

2. Waterfall of Moyet, and village of, Zeizun - 31

3. Greek Inscription at 'Abdin - - - 41

4. Plan of Jama'ah at Abdin - - - 42

5. Wall of Jama'ah at Abdin - - - - 43

6. View of 'Arkub in Rahwah - - - - 44

7. Section of Water-channel near 'Ain el Ekseir - 47

8. Ornamentation on Sarcophagus - - 47

9. Column of Roman Toll-house near Ain Dakkar - 49

10. Stones of the same - - - - 50

11. Plan and Elevation - - - - 51

12. Corridor at Beit Akkar - - - - 54

13. Loopholes in Wall - - - - - 54

14. Head of Column at Beit Akkar - - - 55

15. Plan of Jam'aah at Beit Akkar - - -56

17. Voussoir-stones of Arch - - - 58

18. Bas-relief Ornament at the spring of the Arch - 58

19. Basalt Columns - - - - - 59

20. Plan of Ruins at Beit Akkar - - - 60

21. View of Beit Akkar and its Gorge from the South - 61

22. Dolmen near 'Ain Dakkar - - - 63

23. Dolmen from the South - - - 64

24. Western end of same - - - - 64

25. Ground-plan of Dolmen with Headings - 65

26. Dolmen without Headings, from the East - 66

27. The same, from the North - - - 67 xii

28. Elevation and Plan of Dolmen near Khurbet

Hamatah - - - - - 70

29. View of the Head of the Shari'at el Menadireh, from

near El Ekseir - - - - 73

30. View of the Nahr er Rukkad, from Jamleh, with the

Tell el Farras in the distance - - - 75

31. Plan of the Jisr el 'Allan - - - 78

32. Head-piece of Niche at Kefr el Ma - - 80

33. Ancient Statue or Idol, found at Kefr el Ma, from a

photograph (re-touched) - - - • - 81

34. The Head of the Idol - - - - 81

35. Altar found near Kefr el Ma - - - - 82

36. Tomb at Esh Shejarah - - - 87

37. Plan of Ancient Building at Sahem ej Jaulan, at

present part of the Sheikh's House - - 93

38. Ornamentation on Arch-stones at Sahem ej Jaulan - 94

39. Interior of part of Sheikh's House at Sahem ej

40. Cross, Crescent, and Arrow in bas-relief on wall of

41. Bas-relief Ornamentation over the South Door of the

Sheikh's House at Sahem ej Jaulan - - 96

42. 43. Crosses on Building at Sahem ej Jaulan - - 97 44,45. Elevation and Section of Window - 97

46. Ornamented Window - - - - 98

47. Plan of Tomb at Sahem ej Jaulan - - 98

48. Fragment of Greek Inscription - - 98

49. Elevation and Section of Kanat Faraun at Ed

50. Stone with defaced Greek Inscription - - 125

51. Plan showing, Basin, Kanat Fara'un, and portion of

Wady Zeidy - ' - - - - 125

52. Plan of Hummam Siknany at Ed Der'aah - - 127

53. Plan of the Jama'ah and Keniseh at Ed Der'aah - 129

54. Twisted Column in Jama'ah - - - - 130

55. Greek Inscriptions on Stones in the Colonnade - 131

56. Medany at Ed Der'aah - - - - 132

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

xiii

57. Greek Inscription in the Serayah at Ed Der'aah - 134

58. Basalt Block, with groove cut in it for a Stone Gate,

Underground City of Ed Der'aah - 135

59. Block, with Moulding - - - - 135

60. Greek Inscription on Frieze - - - - 136

61. Entrance to the Underground City at Ed Der'aah - 136

62. Plan of Underground City of Ed Der'aah, - to face 137

63. Stone Gate of Underground City - - - 137

64. Columns supporting Roof of Underground City - 138

65. Elevation and Plan of Mangers in Chamber c - 139

66. Elevation and Plan of Lamp-holes - 140

67. Bottle-shaped Cistern in Chamber K - - 142

68. Stone with Arabic Inscription over Gateway - 146

69. Mason-marks on Stones at Ed Dera'ah - - 147

70. Roman Mouldings ----- 147

71. Cross Ornament on Stones - 148

72. Broken Stone with Arabic Inscription - - 148

73. Dolmen at Tsil - - - - - 152

74. Plan of the Town of El Mezeinb, - - to face 157

75. Greek Inscription in the Court of the Kul'ah el

'Atikah at El Mezeirib - - - 159

76. Ornaments and Mouldings on Stones in North-west

Tower of the Castle- - - - - 160

77. Ornament on a Stone in the Jam'aah - - 160

78. View of El Mezeinb and the Lake of El Bajjeh from

the Kul'ah el 'Atikah - - - - 161

79. The Mudafy at Nawa. - - - - 169

80. Medany at Nawa. - - - - -171 Si. Lintel Stone with Seven-branched Candlestick Ornamentation at Nawa - - - - 172

82. Doorway with Lintel Stones - - - - 173

83. Ornamentation of Lintel of Gateway at Nawa. - 1 73

84. Key-stone of an Arch, with representation of Seven-

branched Candlestick, Jewish Jubilee Trumpet and

Olive Branch, found at Nawa. - - - 174

84a. Rudely carved Jewish Candlestick - - - 174

85. Plan of Wely of Neby Sam at Nawa. - 176 xiv

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

86. Fragment of Arabic Inscription at Wely Neby Sam- 177

87. Greek Inscription - - - - - 178

88. Greek Inscription - - - - - 178

89. Plan of Mausoleum at Khurbet Samakh - - 181

90. Square Capital of Column found in Mausoleum - 182

91. Fragment of Sarcophagus with relief representing a

Lion, from the Mausoleum - - - - 182

92. Subterranean Building at Khurbet Samakh - - 183

93. Stone, with Moulding, in Wall of Subterranean

Chamber at Khurbet Samakh - - - 184

94. Wheel in Bas-relief on Slab at Kefr es Samir - t 86

95. View of Sheikh Sa'ad, from a photograph - - 187

96. Plan of Jama'ah at Sheikh Sa'ad - - - 190

97. Elevation of Arcades in the Jama'ah - - 190

98. Niche with Marble Pillars - - - - 191

99. The Sakhret Ayyub, or 'Rock of Job' - - 191 100. View of El Merkez, from the North - - - 195 ioi- Cross with A and Q in relief over Gateway of Deir

Ayyub - 196

102. Plan of the Makam Ayyub, or ' Grave of Job ' - 197

103. Greek Inscription on Slab in the Wall - - 198

104. Sketch of Outer Wall to the East of Tell esh Shehab 200

105. Front, Side Elevation, and Section of Corinthian

Capital found at Tell el Ash'ary - 204

106. Monolith of Basalt near the Bahret el Ash'ary - 206

107. View of Medany and Jama'ah at Tuffas - - 210

108. Ground Plan of the Jama'ah - - - - 211

109. Arches and Columns in Jama'ah at Tuffas - - 212 no. Capital of a Column ----- 213 III, 112. Ornamentation in Bas-relief on Voussoirs of

Arch in Sheikh's House - . 214, 215

113. Corbel with Acanthus Leaf - - - - 215

114. South Facade of Sheikh's House - - - 216

115. Ornamented Lintel and Jambs of Door - - 217

116. Column with double Base - - - - 217

117. Slab with Greek Inscription - 217

118. Crosses found in the Walls at Tuffas - - - 218

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

xv

119. Stone Mangers at El Tireh - - - , -220

120. Greek Inscription at El Tireh - - - 221

121. Plan of Jama'ah at Tsil - 224

122. Columns supporting the Medany at Tsil - - 225

123. Head-stone of Niche built into Wall of Jama'ah at

124. Door leading into the Jama'ah - 226

125. Arcades of the Jama'ah - 226 125a. Capitals of Pillars in Jama'ah - 227

126. Niche B in Jama'ah ----- 228

127. Capital of Column at C in the Jama'ah - - 228

128. Ornamentation in Relief over Gateway of Sheikh's

129. Greek Inscription on Stone in Sheikh's Yard at Tsil 229

130. Drum of Twisted Column, in Basalt - - - 229

131. Column at Yedudeh - 231

132. Bas-relief on Lintel of a Door ... 232

133. Leaf carved on Slab at Yedudeh - - - 232

134. Cross on the wall - 232

135. Part of Carved Lintel of Gate at Yedudeh - - 233

136. Ruined Tank at Yedudeh - 234

137. Column standing in the Bahret Zeizun . - - 236

138. Carving on a Stone ----- 236

139. Fragment of Entablature - 237

140. Elevation and Section of Head of Pilaster - - 238

141. Greek Inscription over Water-channel - - 239

142. Greek Inscription at Zeizun - 240

143. Slab with Greek Inscriptions - 240

144. Plan of Ruin, supposed to be a Synagogue, at Ed

145. Head-piece of Niche ----- 247

146. Detail of Ornamentation - 248

147. Triangular Stone Lintel of Door - 248

148. Block carved in relief with winged Female Figure - 249

149. Carved Cornice - 250

150. Detail of Ornamentation - 250

151. Ornamentation on Stones at Khisfin - - 257

XVI

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

152. Figure of a Lion, on Slab at Umm el Kanatir - 261

153. Moulding on Door-jambs at same - - - 263

154. Figure of an Eagle in low-relief on Stone at Umm el

155. Ornamented Lintel-stone - 265

156. Greek Inscription from Tiberias 266

157. Greek Inscription on Stone in the wall of Synagogue

at Tiberias ------ 267

MAPS AND PLANS.

Map of part of Western Hauran and Eastern Jaulan,

from the Surveys of G. Schumacher, C.E. Frontispiece Sections across Jaulan and Hauran - - to face p. 1

Plan of Underground City of Ed Dera'ah - „ 137

Plan of the Town of El Mezeirib - - „ 157 Map of the North-East of Lake Tiberias and part

Map of part of 'Ajlun and the Belka - „ 268

EASTERN JAULAN AND WESTERN HAURAN.

Chapter I. General Physical Characteristics

The present map (on the scale of f of an inch to i mile) represents a portion of Eastern Jauldn or Ez Zawiyeh esh ShurMyeh and Western Haurdn, and contains about 240 square miles. The whole of this country consists of a high plateau. It is bounded on the south-west by the hills of 'Ajlun, and on the south by the Syrian Desert. In its extension from east to west it gradually slopes from the Jebel ed Drus down to the western banks of the high tablelands of Jaulan, which overhang the eastern shore of the Lake of Tiberias ; but it rises gradually from its southern to its northern limits, where occur the range of volcanic hills generally called Tellul el Hesh, and the high lands of Jedur.

The country shown in the map forms a part of the Liwah, the Mutasarriftyeh or the Sanjak of the Hauran, whose Lieutenant-Governor or Mutasarrif resides at Sheikh Sa'ad. His jurisdiction, besides comprising the entire Hauran plateau, extends over the Jebel ed Drus, 'Ajlun, and the Jaulan ; and his district is divided into several Kaimakdmiyehs, of which one is the Kamakamiyeh of the Jaulan, with the seat of its government at El Kuneitrah. The Jaulan is further subdivided into three districts ; viz. r (i) the northern part round El Kuneitrah, called Esh Sharah ; (2) the southern and western part, Ez Zawiyeh el Ghurbiyeh ; and (3) the eastern part, Ez Zawiyeh esh ShurMyeh.

The natural boundary, as also the political division recognised by the present government, between Hauran and Jaulan is the Nahr el 'Allan; the boundary between Jaulan and 'Ajlun is formed by the SharVat el Menddireh (the ancient Hieromax or Yarmuk) ; while that between the Hauran and 'Ajlun is the Wddy esh Sheldleh. That portion of the Liwah of Hauran which is now surveyed is naturally divided into the two districts of (1) Eastern Jaulan or Ez Zawiyeh esh ShurMyeh, and (2) Western Hauran.

GENERAL PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS.

I. Eastern Jaulan or Ez Zawiyeh esh Shurkiyeh.

This district of Jaulan is bounded on the south by the Shari'at el Menadireh, and on the north extends to the Jisrs (or Bridges) of 'A lldn and Rukkdd, or even as far as Ghadtr el Bustdn. On the east it is bounded by the gorge of the Nahr el 'Allan (Hauran), and on the west by the still more precipitous Nahr er Rukkad. Its highest elevation, at Ghadir el Bustdn, reaches 1,912 feet; while its lowest inhabited village, not counting the Bedawin huts at Kuweyyeh, is El Ekseiv, at 1,145 feet; but its average height may be put at 1,500 feet above the Mediterranean Sea. This high plateau is in its northern part (from Jamleh northwards) but little cultivated, except* in the vicinity of the villages, It is covered with a multitude of volcanic mounds — the so-called Rujm, of basaltic formation — the summits of which, fenced round by basalt blocks, are used for sheepfolds, and termed Siar by the Bedawin, who graze their flocks over this stony country, which produces a splendid pasture during the earlier spring. The appearance of these Siar from a distance is likely to lead to the false impression that the country is covered with ruins. Each of the tribes of the 'Arab el 'Anazeh, the Fuddel, and the Nu'em, who occupy this part of Jaulan, have their respective Siar or Isiar (folds), which they consider as their own, and return to

1 — 2

4 EA STERN fA ULAN AND WESTERN HA URAN.

every successive spring ; and should the Siar be forcibly annexed by another tribe, such an action is regarded as a challenge, and a dispute becomes unavoidable. The Siar are generally known by the name of the tribe they belong to. This northern region of volcanic mounds is called Ej Jebal*

The southern part of Eastern Jaulan, southwards from Jamleh, and east, west, and south from Esh Shejarah, is also of a basaltic formation, but bears a richer soil, being less stony, and is therefore more cultivated. The small tribe of 'Arab Izluf cultivates wheat and barley in the vicinity of the prosperous town of Esh Shejarah. The 'Arab el Menadireh camp in the valley of the ancient Hieromax, the Yarmuk River, or as it is now called, the Shari'at el Menadireh. On the high plateau there are but few trees ; there are, however, still here and there some remains of forests ; and single oaks and terebinths

* Although, as is well known, the letter Jim (g) in classical Arabic is not counted as one of the ' Shamsiyeh ' — i.e., is not of those before which the / of the article al is to be assimilated —in the vulgar pronunciation of the Fellahin of Western Palestine, and more especially among the tribes east of the Jordan, it counts as such ; and they always pronounce 'Ej Jebal ' and not ' El Jebal,' as is the rule in other countries, in accordance with the classical grammar. In the map and memoir, in order as much as possible to set down the exact local pronunciation of the names of places, I have adopted this Fellahin and ungrammatical usage of Jim as a'' Shamsiyeh,' and thus write Sahem ej Jaulan, Tell ej Jabiyeh, etc.

GENERAL PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS.

and stumps are dotted about the country; the slopes of the wadies, too, are still covered with brushwood. Neither the soil nor the climate here is inferior to that of 'Ajlun, which is so thickly covered with oak forests ; but owing to the great need of fuel during the rainy season, in a country where snowfall is a common occurrence, the nomad Bedawin and the villagers tear up every young tree before it has time to grow. Now and then, however, near villages, in the yard of a sheikh's dwelling, or to shade and shelter the whitewashed tomb of a Muhammedan saint, we find a single butm or terebinth {Pistacia terebinthia) tree, which has been spared, and which has grown to a large size. The villagers and Bedawin for their fuel as a rule make use of dried dung. But how highly wood is appreciated for this purpose is attested by the fact that, in order to prevent its removal by lawless hands, the Fellahin woman who, after great efforts, has gathered some branches together, will pile them up during the summer in the yard surrounding the Wely of the Muhammedan saint who is buried at the village ; and here an upright stick, surmounted by a coloured piece of cloth, marks it as hers. Under the protection of the Neby, the property is absolutely secure, for no Muhammedan would dare to touch it ; ploughs also and other implements of agriculture are often found deposited near the Neby's grave, and it effectually protects these goods against Bedawin and robbers.

The descents from the mountain plateau to the gorges of the streams, owing to the peculiar basaltic formation, are often precipitous ; and perpendicular cliffs of from 20 to 40 and even 60 feet occur. The southern banks of the Shari'at el Menadireh, forming the northern boundary of 'Ajlun, are less abrupt than are the northern banks which belong to Jaulan, for the basaltic region comes gradually to an end on the borders of northern 'Ajlun. The Shari'ah in fact may be considered as the boundary between the basaltic region of the Jaulan and the limestones of 'Ajlun. The bottom of the Shari'ah, as well as of the Rukkad and 'Allan gorges, consists of a very soft limestone mass, while it is only the upper borders of the gorge, and the banks of streams that are of from 40 to 100 feet in height, that show the solid mass of basaltic blocks ; but a more or less large accumulation of fragments of this volcanic stone is piled up on the intermediate slopes. One of the most curious instances of this formation is found at the peak between Jamleh and Kefr el Ma, on the Rukkad. Here the Tell el Ehdeib, or Ras el Hal, rises nearly perpendicularly from the valley of the Rukkad (which is itself 528 feet above the level of the Mediterranean) to an elevation of 1,060 feet above the sea, thus forming a precipitous cliff 522 feet high. On its southern side, towards Jamleh, however, the Tell falls less abruptly, and after a descent of about 300 feet reaches the valley, through which flows a small brook. Thus at this place the Rukkad Valley is divided into two halves, between which rises the Tel el Ehdeib, sloping gradually down towards the west, and forming, where the above-mentioned brook unites with the Rukkad River, a cliff of but little height. On both the upper borders of the valley, which has here between Kefr el Ma and Jamleh a width of a mile and a half, but especially on its northern side, the high plateau is edged with basaltic cliffs, which rise precipitously above the sloping banks of the river. Great masses of basalt, which have fallen from the upper cliffs, here cover many parts of the slope, and have rolled into the bed of the stream, which in its rapid course has sometimes carried them even as far as the Shari'at el Menadireh.

The watershed at this part of Jaulan has its culminating point at 'Ain Dakkar, and runs along a line from there to Kaukab, and thence along the eastern part of the Zawiyeh esh Shurkiyeh, thus keeping a line not far from and nearly parallel to the 'Allan, and extending southwards to El Ekseir. From this watershed the streams separate, one portion running westwards and south-westwards to the Rukkad, and another portion southwards to the

Shan'at el Menadireh. There are four perennial streams: i. The SharV-at el Menadireh; 2. The Rukkdd ; 3. The Wddy Seisun or Wddy 'A in Dakkar ; and 4. The 'Allan. Of these the first two and the last form the boundary of the Zawiyeh esh Shurkiyeh.

1. The SharVat el Menadireh is the most remarkable stream of the country east of the Jordan, and it brings to that river about the same amount of water as the Jordan itself carries at the point of junction. Its name is derived, as above said, from the Bedawin tribe called El Menadireh — Shan'ah, being the Arabic word for ford or watering-place, etc. — who graze their flocks in its valley and cultivate its slopes. The ancient name, Hieromax, is mentioned by Pliny; and Ritter (' Erdkunde,' xv. a; 'Palsestina u. Syrien,' ii. a, p. 372) states that in the Talmud, according to Lightfoot's researches (Lightfoot, Opp. ii., Centuria Chorogr., chap. iv. fol. 173), it is mentioned by the name of Jarmoch (' Jarmoch fluvius in via ad Damascum'). The name Yarmuk, used in the twelfth century by Arabic authors, such as Edrisi and Abu'l Feda, must be the transcription of the ancient name Hieromax ; while the name 'Irak, ^j^, occasionally given to it by the inhabitants of Eastern Jaulan, simply means cliff, and is descriptive of the character of the river-banks.

During a meeting of Bedawin and other sheikhs, which took place at the large village of Esh Shejarah in Eastern Jaulan, I took occasion to inquire about the names in use amongst them for the 'great river' at the boundary of their lands. Their statements were as follows : ' Ehreir, or 'Irak, is the name of the great wady rising in Northern Hauran, at a large place called Es Sunamein : it flows nearly due south, passing on its way Sheikh Miskm, and bends near the Tell es Semen W.S.W. to Tell el Ash'ary, and thence more to the west again until it is joined by the 'Allan below Heit. The two united rivers, bearing the names of El Ehreir or 'Irak, now flow for a short distance south-west, until they join the Shari'at el Menadireh. The Shari'ah is fed by a second river called the Moyet Zeizun. This stream rises under the name of Wady Zeidy (dry in summer) in the Jebel ed Drus, and passing westwards the Nukrah of the Hauran, touches El Dera'ah, and is joined at Tell esh Shehab by the Wady el Bajjeh, coming from the Bajjeh lake at El Mezeirib; thence, taking a more northerly course under the name of Wady Tell esh Shehab, below Zeizun, it is further joined by a large stream, the Moyet Zeizun, which name is now kept by the united streams until they join the Shari'ah el Menadireh, very near the junction of the Ehreir. A third stream, the Wady esh Sheldleh, the boundary between the Hauran and 'Ajlun, which carries but little water in summer, also falls into the Shari'ah just south of the junction io ,E ASTERN J A ULAN AND WESTERN HAURAN.