The experiences of a Forty-niner during thirty-four years' residence in California and Australia

Front matter

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CHARLES D. FERGUSON. 1853. .

Chapter 1 9

Gold Excitement, 1848 — Inspiration and Plans — Consent of Parents — Disappointment — Renewed Hope — Visit to Illinois — Embarking at Cleveland for Chicago — Incidents of the Voyage — Winter at Ottawa — A Relapse of the Gold Fever— An Ottawa Company — Journe3' to St. Louis — Negro Melody — Purchases and Passage to St. Joseph.

Chapter II 17

Steamer Orient — Passengers a Hard Lot — Thief Knocked Overboard — Complimented by the Captain — Independence and St. Joseph — Old Fort Kearne\' — First Camp — Drowned Out — Crossing the Missouri — Salt Creek, now Lincoln, Nebraska — A Santa Fe Post Rider — Party of Pawnees — Deer Shooting — A Man with a Wheelbarrow.

Chapter III 35

Junction North and South Platte — Snow-Storm — Distress and Suffering — Crossing the South Platte — Ogalalla — Impressions of the Country — North Platte Crossing — Buffalo Herds — Game — Sioux — Trading — Ft. Laramie — Shooting Wagons — Crows— Stealing, a Business Transaction — Pancake Snatching — The Frying-Pan Knock Down.

Xn CONTENTS.

PAGE

Chapter IY 47

Black Hills — Antelope and Elk — Canadian Fur Trappers — Court- House Rock — Chimney Rock — Hostile Crows — Strange Manoeuvers— Our Scotchman's Sudden Sickness— An Indian Prisoner of War— His Surrender Negotiated— The Pipe of Peace— George, the "Squaw"— Trading— Empty Jug Discovered — Whiskey Legal Tender — Independence Rock.

Chapter V 56

South Pass— The Summit— Dividing of the Waters— Subblet's Cut-off — General Rejoicing — Green River Crossing — The Shoshones — Woman's Burdens — No Chivalry' — Hot Springs — Steamboat Valley — Game Scarce— Fort Bridger— Old Jim and His Squavi'— Black River Crossing — Echo Cation — Salt Lake in the Distance.

Chapter VI 67

Salt Lake City — Hospitality— Mormon Women— Anxiety for News — Needles and Thread— Brigham Young— Sunday at the Temple— A Race with a Shower— Laughing Ladies— Distance Deceptive- Comforting Assurances— Indians all Baptized — Ogden Park— Sudden Death— Bear River— The Valley— Then and Now.

Chapter VII 77

Fort Hall— Soda Springs— Another Party— Disagreement— Humbolt River— The Sink— The Lake— The Desert— Suffering— Alkali Water —Digger Indians— Surprised— The Killed— A Death Avenged— Our Loss— Starvation— Boiled Badger— Exhaustion— Mental Weakness—Childish Petulance.

CONTENTS. Xin

PAGE

Chapter VIII 94

Another Comrade Killed — Eleven Dead Indians — Provisions Gone — Shall a Horse be Killed — Wagon Trail Discovered — Hope Revived —Great Rejoicing— Oregon Party— Rescued— The Women— Mush and Milk— Price of Provisions — Yankee Doodle Beef— Cutting Out the Arrow— Indian Camp Surprised— The Captain's Hopeful Son — Pulling the Captain's Tooth — The Quack Doctor.

Chapter IX 113

A Prospecting Party— Generosity — Lessen 's Ranch — Parting with the Oregonians— Near the Gold Fields— Sensations— Dinner in Camp —First Day's Digging— Mountain Fever— Mining Operations- Grizzly Bear — Lurking Indians — Finding Ohio Boys — Marysville — Yuba City — High Prices.

Chapter X 139

Nevada City— Wood's Ravine— Ohio Boys— Miners' Generosity- Gamblers and Gambling— Judge Lynch's Court — Ohio Party Rescued—Rough and Ready— Mrs. Phelps and Her Pies— First Woman in Nevada City — Church Bazaar Post-Office — The Scales

First Newspaper — Deference to Woman.

Chapter XI I55

Mining Associations— A Claim— Rifle Bounded— Kiote Diggings— Hiring Out— " Galena "—Senator Stewart— Painful Sickness— Poor Man's Creek— Borrowing a Mule— Another Grizzly— Perry's Death— Ingratitude— Jumping a Claim— First Mining Suit— Eviction— The Evictor Evicted— Luck— A Miner's Superstition.

XIY CONTENTS.

PAGE

Chapter XII 170

Gold Run — Shaft Sinking — Timbering — Wash Dirt — The Enterprise Company — Kiote Hills Tunneling — Grass Valley — A Midnight Cry — Quartz Mining — Mortar and Pestle — First Stamp Mills — Mark Twain's Experience— Job's Patience— Mrs. Coates — Teaming to Sacramento — Lost and Found — No Thanks — Where's My Coat? — Chief Cook — Nevada in Flames — Doctors' Duel — Crimes and Punishments — Dueling — Bull-fighting — Women and Improved Society — Indian Dances and Funeral Fashions.

Chapter XIII 19S

Improved Methods — The Cradle — Quicksilver — Long Tom— Sluice Boxes — H3'draulic Washing — News from Australia — Resolved to Go There— Settling Up— Carried off by the Gold Fever— Sacramento — San Francisco — Ship Don Juan — Steamer Wintiekl Scott Arrives — Practical Jokes — Careless Shooting — Spurs and Shirt Collar — On Deck of the Don Juan — Adieu to San Francisco.

Chapter XIV 21S

Pass the Golden Gate— Bound for Australia— Seasickness— Pumping — Passengers— Society Islands — Deficiency of Supplies— Becalmed — Crossing the Line — Neptune's Reception — Tahiti Experiences and Sports — The Calaboose — Quack Doctor — A Duel — Heir to a Dukedom — Brother of an Earl.

Chapter XV 23Q

Leave Tahiti— Reduced to Beans— Prospect of Casting Lots— Job's Comforter — Insanity from Hunger— Norfolk Island— Captain Price— Soldiers— Prisons— Punishments— The Clergyman— Hanging Persons " Comfortably "—Pigs and Poultry— Sydney, Ausralia — Arrive at Melbourne.

CONTENTS. XY

PAGE

Chapter XVI 240

Impressions of Melbourne — Getting Out— Keller's Bed-bug Hotel — Black Forest — Bush-rangers — Diggers — Sticking Up — Harper's Hotel — Porcupine Hotel — Bendigo Diggings — Fii-st License — Americans— Sheep's Head— Ovens River — Marching in a Robber.

Chapter XVII 251

A New Rush — Carrying Sv(rag — Mackiver Diggings — Government Escort Robbed — Arrested and Searched — Our Landlord's Endorsement — Discharged — Blowhards — Shooting for a Wager — Mrs. Scott's Fourth of July Dinner — Police Interfere — Captain Wilson — The Quack Doctor of the Don Juan— ''016. Pills" — Loveland's Noble Generosity.

Chapter XVIII 258

Woolshed Creek Diggings — Health Failed — Expensive Traveling — Bread and Milk — Melbourne Again — American Circus — Minstrel Company — Ocean Steamers — Loveland Departs — Loneliness and Regi-et — Mr. Walter — The Great Nugget — Restaurant Business — Mrs. Hanmer and the Adelphi — Horsewhips Her Partner — Mr. Wooden.

Chapter XIX 275

The Ballarat Rebellion — Its Causes — Petitions to Government — Police — Troops — Miners Prepare for War — Peter Lalor — Americans Protest — California Rangers — The Battle — Miners Taken Prisoners — Surrender to the Police — Imprisonment.

XYI CONTENTS.

PAGE

Chapter XX 288

In Jail— Ragged and Bloody— The Only American Prisoner of War- Friends— An Editor in Limbo— Wooden and Nichols Arrive — Charge of High Treason — Preparation for Trial — Trial and Acquittal—Rejoicing of Friends— Jealousy — Partiality Towards the Young American — United States Consul— Interview with the Governor — Peace Restored — Diggings Resumed.

Chapter XXI 302

Wadagalac Diggings — A Store — Success — A Gold Broker — Robbery arrd Murder of Murphy — Punishment — The Black Guide — Thick Skull— Dealing with Tramps— Return to Ballarat— A Struggle with Robbers— The Ballarat Bank— The Famous Bank Robbery — A Woman in the Affair.

Chapter XXII 318

Alma Diggings — Ovens Creek — Newspapers — Wealth and Extravagance — "A Hatter" — First Engine on the Woolshed — Court of Mines— Devil's Elbow— Hard Work— Great Results— Nine-pins — Fourth of July— News of the Rebellion in United States— Sadness and Silence — Friendships Among Strangers — George Francis Train— American Ball— My Partner — Mrs. Mason — The Star of the Evening — The Milliner's Bill.

Chapter XXIII 334

Ballarat— United States Hotel Burned — Death of Nichols — Still on the Woolshed — Tom Departs — Gunston Again — Scarcity of Beef — After Cattle — Incidents of the Trip — A Woman "Stuck Up" — Robbers in Jail — Squatter Stations — "Sweat Out" — "Fly- Blown" — "Old Hands" — A Race with Robbers — Successful Trip —Profits Satisfactory.

CONTENTS. XVn

PAGE

Chapter XXIV 345

Sick Again— Giinston Goes Another Trip — Incident — Leave Woolshed for Melbourne — Delirious— M\' Nurse — The Washerwoman — Recovery — First Staging — Concord Coaches— Cobb & Company—Forbes & Company— Davis & Cooper— Enter Davis & Company's Service— Impounding Horses— The Rescue— The Outcome — Watson & Hewitt— Excitement of Coaching.

Chapter XXV 362

Rarry's Exploits— Horse-Taming— Furor in the Colonies— Observations in Boyhood— The Secret No Secret— Could Do the Same- Tried and Succeeded— Horsemen Astonished— Public Exhibition- Handsome Receipts — Exhibit in the Principal Cities— Jerry Luther and the Ladies— Benefit for the Schools— The Lunch— The Wild Horse and his Fair Rider.

Chapter XXVI 377

Gipps' Land— A Gold Rush— Dealing with His Uncle— Cattle Duffing —Unexpected Offer— Royal Society — Exploring Expedition — Hasten to Melbourne— Appointed Foreman of the Expedition- Fitting Out— The Start— Reviewed by the Governor— Curiosity of the People— Camels a Novelty— Grooming a Camel— Cooper's Creek— Resignation and Return— Fate of the Expedition— Starvation and Death.

Chapter XXVII 39g

After Ten Years— Invests in Quartz— A Failure— Rush to New Zealand—Gets a City Contract— Coach Driving— Fox's Diggings- Lumbering on Waktepac Lake— Lord Trotter and His Sheep)— The Mutton Story— The Raffle for the Boat.

XYin CONTENTS.

PAGE

Chapter XXVm 414

Butchering in New Zealand— The Natives— Cannibal Memories— Returning to Melbourne — Sickness — Sons of Freedom Companj-^ — Colonies Described — Botany Bay Convicts — Tasmania — Capture of Buckley — Birds and Animals — Natives — The Boomerang — Lost Children— Trackers — Rabbits— Churches — Education — Parliament—Products and Commerce.

Chapter XXIX 444

Mental Panorama— Memories of Eminent Persons— Statesmen- Sportsmen— Stock Breeders— Cattle Kings — Millionaires — The Claimant— Fleet Horses— Crimes and Criminals— Kelley Brothers' Gang — Victoria Prison.

Chapter XXX 464

Gipps' Land— Pioneers— Stations— Great Estates— Horse Aristocracy- Stringy Bark— House Building— Gum and Cherry Trees— Bountiful Crops— Answ^ering an Advertisement— Tongia— In the Mountains- Murder of Green — Omeo — Discovery— Chinese— Spanish — Dutch- Captain Cook— First Colony— Lost and Found— First Newspaper- Governors— Law System and Courts— Population Then and Now.

Chapter XXXI 484

The Return — Correspondence — Resolve — Adieus — Sydney — The Zealandria — Sadness — Passengers — Auckland — Honolulu — Diversions and Entertainments — Fourth of July — San Francisco — Changes — Reflections — The Railway — Familiar Scenery — Humbolt Sink — Ogden — Cleveland — Visiting— Loveland — See — Alone in his Native Country — "Over the Range."

THE GOLD FEVER.

Chapter I

Gold Excitement, 1848 — Inspiration and Plans — Consent of Parents — Disappointment — Renewed Hope — Visit to Illinois — Embarking at Cleveland for Chicago — Incidents of the Voyage — Winter at Ottawa — A Relapse of the Gold Fever — An Ottawa Company— Journey to St. Louis— Negro Melody- Purchases AND Passage to St. Joseph.

AMONG the many thousands who, in 1848, were excited to the verge of lunacy on the arrival of the news from "around the Horn," announcing the discovery of gold by Marshall, at Sutter's mill, on American river, California, the relater of the events and experiences recorded in this book was one. Visions of gold excited my brain. It was not the gold alone, but an awakening of a strong desire of adventure which had pervaded my spirit from a small school-boy taking my finst lesson in geography. Foreign countries marked upon the pages of the little school atlas were fascinating, and many were the pictures I drew in my youthful imagination of some future time when, by travel, I should know more of the world. How I did envy Captain Cook and Robinson Crusoe, the latter especially. I remember one day resting with my brother under the shade of a tree near our old Ohio homestead when a sedate gentleman rode by on

10 THE FEVER CATCHING.

horseback. " Do you know that man ?" said my brother. I said no. " That is Judge Eben Newton, "said my brother, *' and he is what I will be some day. What will you be?'^ asked my brother. "I will be a traveler, "said I, "and seethe world." It is a strange coincidence that the two lads under the shade tree reached, respectively, the height of his boyish ambition — I to my heart's content.

There were numerous other boys in our neighborhood who had the gold fever, caught, doubtless, in some instances, from me, for it was surely "catching." Many were the evenings we got together and laid our plans. There was not a newspaper that had an item about gold that was not learned by heart, and great pains taken to enlarge and embellish the accounts to our parents. When I succeeded in getting my dear old father's and mother's consent to let me go, I was the proudest boy in Ohio. Pictures of untold wealth nearly drove me wild. This, however, was but for a short period, for, as the time drew near for m\^ departure, my parents suddenly changed their minds. I was too 3'oung, they said, to go out into the world of temptations, and especially among the Indians. My heart sank ten degrees below zero, but it was of no use; the old people had settled it, and go I should not. But to conciliate m}^ wounded spirit and recompense me for my disappointment, they agreed that I might go and visit Doctor George W. McKinney, a half-brother, living at Ottawa, Illinois. I grasped the situation. Now was my chance, and I was determined not to throw it away. I appeared to be satisfied with the arrangement and soon left home, little thinking that thirty-four years would pass away

A mother's last words. 11

before I should return, and then to find that other hands than mine had to assist in laying my aged and gray-haired parents in their quiet rural graves, and that, too, many long years before their seemingly thoughtless but not unfeeling son returned. O, how many sleepless nights, how many anxious hours they have waited and waited for my return! My dear old mother's dying words were : "Tell Charles I have waited and waited until I can wait no longer, and only hope to meet him in Heaven." Heaven rest her soul. May her joys surpass the sorrows I caused her here upon earth.

It was in the month of September, 1849, when, at the age of seventeen years, I bade good-by to father, mother and friends, and repaired to Cleveland where I embarked on the lake steamer A. D. Patchen for Chicago. It was late in the season, the weather generally rough, and my trip was not an exception, unless it was unusually rough, which I think it was, since I have experienced many severe storms on the ocean hardly more severe. Had I been on shore, and safe at home, I would have been content to remain there and let gold -seeking go to David Jones' locker. But that feeling soon vanished after arriving at Chicago. It was, however, not the Chicago of to-day, for I think the population did not exceed seventeen thousand. Among the incidents of this lake voyage was one on Lake Huron. There were many clergymen passengers on board who were on their return from a conference at Buffalo. In the midst of the storm Captain Whitaker passed through the saloon in a great hurry, when the ministers accosted him to know if there was any danger ? " Danger I Yes, we will

12 ON THE LAKES.

all be in h — 1 together in less than ten minutes !" The ministers united in both audible and silent prayer till the storm abated. A passenger came aboard at some port near the head of Lake Michigan. He had been left by some other boat the day before. He was intoxicated, and after supper walked out on the hurricane deck and fell overboard. The engine was stopped and boats lowered, but to no purpose; the poor fellow had sunk to rise no more, unless at the final resurrection. His wife came aboard at Chicago to look for him. But, alas, no husband was there, and the only memento she obtained was his hat. Thus ended my first voyage on the inland seas.

From Chicago to Ottawa, eighty miles by canal, took twenty-four hours, which is now accomplished by rail in less than three. At Ottawa I found the gold excitement as intense, if not more so, than in Ohio ; so there was no hope for my recovery from the fever, since I had already relapsed from the first attack, and doctors say a relapse is more liable to be fatal than the first attack. I found it so in my case. There is no disease or desire on earth so contagious as the gold fever. There is no asylum for the patient and no physician who can minister to a mind thus diseased.

My mind was made up to go to California and nothing but death could stop me. But how to get away was the only thing that troubled me. I had spent my money rather freely among my brother's friends, to whom in a short time I had become quite warmly attached, and who in compliment to my cheerful intercourse with them, unanimously voted me a "chip of the old block," however that

THE QUESTION SETTLED. 13

may be interpreted. Most of them are dead now (1887). A few remain in Ottawa. Arthur Lockwood is still there. William Earle now lives at La Salle, Colorado, I believe, though I have not seen him since my return to this country. Doctor Thomas, another of my early Ottawa friends, lives in Samanock, La Salle county, Illinois, and whom I recently had the pleasure of visiting. Others, if they still live, are scattered and distributed among the great states of the west, and whom I shall never probably meet again on earth.

How to approach my brother on the subject of going to California was a perplexing matter to me. Soon, however, a favorable moment came. Winter had nearly gone, and spring was approaching with all its suggestiveness of activity and labor. One day my brother asked me what I intended to do. My courage failed me when put to the test. I answered, of course, that I did not know. Hemade me several offers, and suggested several fields of enterprise which almost any young man, in less excitable times, would have deemed advantageous and fortunate, but all of which I declined. My apparent indiiference to his every suo^o^estion doubtless seemed to him to indicate either stupidity or ingratitude, and he was justly provoked when he passionately said: "Whatinh — 1 do you want to do? " My brother's indignation inspired me with boldness. This was my opportunity, and I improved it by saying in the most frank and respectful manner possible, that 1 wanted to go to California. He made no reply, but called his wife and said to her: "This young man wants to go to California," and without waiting for her even to express her astonish-

14 THE "ocean wave."

ment, he told her to pack my things and let me go. She pleaded with me for my mother's sake, but to no purpose. I was going now, and no mistake.

There were three others of Ottawa friends of Doctor Thomas and pleasant acquaintances of mine, who w^ere making arrangements to go, and I entered into an agreement to join them. All things being ready, and considering delays dangerous, we were anxious to be off at once. So on the fourteenth of March, 1850, we left Ottawa for Peru, where we were to take steamer for St. Louis. We found a steamer about ready to rundown the Illinois river. The captain of the Ocean Wave, for such was its imposing name, remembered, doubtless, by many even unto this day, agreed to take ourselves, four in number, four horses and a wagon to St. Louis, for the modest sum of twenty-four dollars. The only stop we made on our trip down the river of any considerable length of time was at Peoria, and I shall ever remember this place for the pleasant impressions itmade upon my mind. Even at this early day it was quite imposing — a magnificent place. I had never seen then, nor have I since, a place where nature had been so lavish in her endowments to make a beautiful city. I have thought of it and spoken of it many times in foreign lands, as the loveliest little town I ever saw. We arrived in St. Louis on the eighteenth of March, where the Ocean Wave was made fast in her place and we disembarked. Here I was impressed with the vast number of steamers along the levee. It seemed to me they numbered thousands. For miles along the levee they lay three and four deep. The sugar and cotton steamers belonging to the lower Missis-

FITTING OUT FOR THE JOURNEY. 15

sippi were readily distinguished from those of the upper Mississippi. The hands on board the former were all negroes. When night came they would all assemble around the capstan, and one would lead off in a song, the others w^ould join in, the next boat's crew would take it up, and so on until the whole was one grand concert from one end of the levee to the other. Since then I have listened to fashionable operas, and heard renowned prima-donnas, but never have I heard the human voice utter such sweetness and melody as then and there came from the lips of the dusky boatmen of the Mississippi.

We placed our horses in a livery on Third street and took up our quarters at a hotel on the same street, the name of which I have forgotten. I only remember it was the best hotel then in St. Louis. I always have had a weakness that way when traveling to patronize the best, which I have always found cheapest in the end. Besides, if one puts up at a respectable house, he has the advantage of better associations, and many times, especially if he is a stranger, it may possibly lead him in the way of business, if, perchance, he maybe a second Mica wber, waiting for something to turn up. Our first necessity incident to the great, laborious and hazardous enterprise of traversing the almost unknown interior of the continent, its vast plains, great rivers, and dangerous and doubtful passes, and terrific canons of the Rocky mountains, w^as to purchase a stock of provisions. This consisted chiefly of bacon, flour, hardtack, tea, coffee and sugar. Two quarts of No. 6 extract of cayenne pepper w^as deemed a necessity, as was also a gallon of the best brandy pro-

16 PASSAGE TO ST. JOSEPH.

curable. Each purchased a Colt's revolver with ample accompaniments for the special benefit of the Indians, and which we afterwards and on many occasions, found to be a very potent and influential Indian persuader.

Our next business was to look for a steamer bound for St. Joseph, some three hundred miles up the Missouri river. This was not a very difficult task, as there were many along the upper levee all ready to start, and each one offered the best advantages, and each was represented to arrive there in the shortest possible time. I may here remark that these river steamers had each its own particular route and river w^aters. Those which ply on the Illinois river do not run on the Mississippi, onl}' to St. Louis, and the Missouri steamers come down only to the same cit}^ and the great cotton and sugar transports and passenger boats of the lower Mississippi do not ply above the same point. It was somewhat difficult to decide upon a boat among so many and all holding out pleasant inducements, but we finally made our selection and paid our passage — six dollars each — w^hich also covered the transportation of our horses, wagon, provisions and provender. It was the best and cheapest contract we could make, as we thought then, but the sequel failed to confirm our opinion.

ON THE "ORIENT." 17

Chapter II

Steamer "Orient"— Passengers a Hard Lot— Thief Knocked Overboard—Complimented BY THE Captain — Independence and St. Joseph— Old Fort Kearney— First Camp— Drowned Out— Crossing the Missouri — Salt Creek, Now Lincoln, Nebraska — A Santa Fe Post Rider — Party of Pawnees — Deer Shooting — A Man wiTEi A Wheelbarrow.

E were now treading the deck of the Orient. The charm of the name seemed to surpass that of the Ocean Wave, but when we got fairly under way, and even before we entered upon the long stretch of the Missouri, and took a survey of our numerous companions of the voyage, the romance and poetry suggested by the names of western river steamers vanished. I have traveled some since, but never have I fell in with such a congregation of self-conceited, ignorant, disagreeable and annoying lot of passengers as crowded the Orient. I do not believe another such lot ever got together. Others have related to me similar experiences, but not a single instance could hold a candle to this experience of my own.

I have always observed, when thrown among people that were ignorant, rough and mean, that they were jealous of those whom they considered better informed and better behaved and who were, in fact, their superiors. Such

18 thip:f knocked overboard.

will form cliques among themselves for the purpose of insulting or annoying 3'ou. It is on their part an unconscious acknowledgment of yoursuperiority. Such was the class of passengers we had on board the steamer Orient. To begin with, they were the worst set of petty thieves I ever knew. They very early set to work to rob our four Canadian ponies of their feed. Our bales of hay diminished rapidly and the mangers were robbed. . At last I caught one of them taking the hay from the ponies. I remonstrated with him, but he only laughed and made fun of me. The others gathered around and jeered and laughed, told me to go home to my mother. I was told by one to hold my tongue, or he would throw me overboard. Mv young blood was a little stirred at such a threat, and I challenged him to try it, and sure enough he collared me. He did not think of throwing me over, but only to frighten me, expecting I would beg off, when they would have the laugh on me. But he misjudged the Ohio boy. We clinched, and struggling out by the aft gangway, near the wheel, it being a side-wheeler, I gave a sudden turn and loosed myself from him, and at the same moment planted my fist full and fairly in his face with such cnergv as my then unpracticed fighting muscle admitted of. and he fell back and overboard. I confess I felt a little frigfhtened, but the water was not more than three feet deep, and when I saw him standing on his feet in the middle of the river, my equanimity was fully restored. The boat stopped, a skiff was lowered, and the man was soon picked up and brought aboard. His nose was bleeding and he was crestfallen. Knowing that such a class of men are

20 A LITTLE SWAGGER.

invariably cowards, and that even a little swagger will command their respect, I therefore notified his friends who wished to take a bath to avail themselves of my services, then and there — adding that it was no unusual thing for me to throw a man or two overboard every morning, to give myself an appetite for breakfast. When the captain learned how matters stood, he told them if any more of them v/ere caught stealing and got thrown overboard, he would not stop to pick them up. After this oration from the captain, he, turning to me, said: "Come on, youngster, with me and take a drink." I did not taste strong drink in those days, but I thanked the captain and respectfully declined his proffered civility. All this, however, had its influence. The ponies were no more robbed of their provender, and, as for my partners and myself, we w^ere treated with civility during the remainder of the trip. It is a lamentably strange peculiarity of mind of this class of people that they will respect you only when they fear you. Trust them and deal gently and kindly with them, as one man should with another, and in return they will insult you, annoy you, and plunder you.

Our progress was rather slow, as the current of the Missouri changes almost daily, and it is impossible for a pilot to know the current from one day to another, and hence we were obliged to tie up every night. Our first stopping place for the discharge of passengers was at Independence, where the worst of the lot were let oft, much to our comfort and relief. On our arrival at St. Joseph, we bade farewell to the Orient and the remainder of its uncompanionable emigrants. We were much disappointed

ST. TOSEPH. 21

at the appearance of this then famous town. It was talked about ahnost as much as St. Louis, both before and after we were on our wa^^ to it. Our ideas of its size and importance had been greatly exaggerated, but no one could tell us anything definite about it more than I could tell them, which was just nothing at all. It was, however, important in the sense of being the last frontier town on the east bank of the Missouri, in the northwest corner of the state. Old Fort Kearney, about one hundred miles up the river, and on its west bank, was the only name then known on the map. All the great interior passed under the general name of Nebraska. The great states and territories now familiar to us, carved from that vast region between the upper Missouri and the Rocky mountains, was but the home of the red man and the range of the buffalo. Most of the houses of St. Joseph were but little temporary huts. There were a verj^ few passabl}- good buildings. The population would not exceed seven hundred. There had been man}^ arrivals before us, and all were waiting for the grass to grow before launching out upon the plains. Man}' did not attempt the jom-ney until the first of May.