Modern Greece: a narrative of a residence and travels in that country

Front matter

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Preface

The author of this volume spent a year at Athens, for the prosecution of special studies, and traveled extensively, both in Peloponnesus and in Northern Greece. During repeated tours, nearly every site famous in the ancient history of the country was visited, together with those places which have figured prominently in more recent transactions. The following pages are the result of observations noted at the time, although, for various reasons, the form of a diary has not been retained throughout.

Several chapters have been devoted to the literature of Modern Greece — a subject to which little attention has been given, out of that country itself. The manners and customs, politics, religion and religious festivals, and the state of popular education, have been made the topics of separate examination. The author has taken great satisfaction in chronicling the unexampled progress of the Greek race in civilization and intelligence ; and, while advocating no particular theory as to its origin, has felt that sufficient interest and sympathy have not been entertained in Christian Europe and America for the struggles of that race to free itself from the trammels of tyranny — poHtical, religious, and intellectual — with which so many centuries of barbarism had invested it.

IV , PREFACE.

About forty of the illustrations in this volume have been executed after original sketches from nature.

The author can not abstain from expressing in this place his obligations to the Rev. Jonas King, D.D., and his estimable lady, whose house was his home for so many months, and whose suggestions were so useful to him in the prosecution of his plans. Nor would he fail to mention the Rev. Dr. Hill, and the Rev. Messrs. Arnold and Buel, who did all in their power to render his sojourn at Athens so fruitful of pleasant reminiscences. He would do injustice to his feelings were he to leave unnoticed the open cordiality that characterizes the Athenian men of letters, whether professors or students, an^ their readiness to facilitate the researches of the stranger.

Chapter I. Appkoach To Athens

On the JEgean. — First Sight of Athens. — Importunate Boatmen. — Pirseus and its Harbor. — A Sciote Merchant. — Matrimonial Negotiations. — Plain of Athens. — A Panoramic View. — Kariskakis. — Olive Grove and Vineyards. — Oriental Habits. — An Unpatriotic Irishman Page 13

. CHAPTER n.

FIRST IMPEESSIONS.

Labjrinthine Streets. — Dr. King. — Scene at the American Consulate. — The Old Town. — Cypress and Palm-trees. — Post-office. — Medrese. — Market-place. — Grapes. — Mustale-\Tia. — General Church. — (Constitution of 1843. — Adventures in Italy. — Mr. Finlay, the Historian. — Mediaeval History. — American Missionaries 21

CHAPTER in.

THE ACROPOLIS. ^ Streets in Ancient Athens. — Walls of All Ages. — An Imprecation. — Turkish Prophecy. — Panathenaic Procession. — Propylaa. — Mutilated Statues. — Ancient Galleries of Paintings. — Ducal Tower. — Temple of Victoiy Apteros. — A'ea of Acropolis. — Parthenon. — Venetian Plunderers. — Chryselei^hautine Statue. — Frieze. — Excavations. — Antique Vases. — Erechtheum. — The Caryatids. — A Colossal Statue. — ^British Vandalism 30

CHAPTER IV.

AIS'TIQUITIES OF THE LOWER TOWN.

The City of Hadrian. — His Gate. — Olympium. — Vicissitudes. — A New Simon Stylites. — Hissus. — Stadium. — Dandelion Salad. — Monument of Lysicrates. — Street of the Tripods. — Theatre of Bacchus. — Virgin of the Cave. — Odeum of Herodes. — Singular Fragments. — Monument of Philopappus. — The Long Walls. — Prison of Socrates. — Pnyx. — Demosthenes. — HiU of Mars. — Ancient Clock-tower. — Stoa of Hadrian.— Gate of the New Market. — Stoa Poecile. — Theseum 48

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

WALKS ABOUT ATHENS.

Festival of St. Demetrius. — Visits. — Sweetmeats. — The Promenade. — Palace Garden. — Costumes of the Athenians. — Beads. — Greek Ladies. — Priests' Dress. — Long Hair worn in Token of Mourning. — Plan of Modern Athens. — House of a former Minister. — Digging through a "Wall. — Position of the Female Sex. — Mercenary Motives in Marriage Page 68

CHAPTER VI.

STUDENT LIFE IN ATHENS.

University of Otho. — Professor Asopius. — University Lihrary. — Professor Bambas. — Translated the Bible. — Singular Meeting. — Other Professors. — Students' Quarters. — Low Salaries. — Student at the Cafe. — The Four Faculties. — Number of Professors and Students. — University educates Greeks from Turkey. — Crowded Lecture-room. — Popular Education. — Scientific Schools 77

CHAPTER Vn.

MODEEN GREEK CUSTOMS.

Wedding in the Upper Circles. — A Greek Party. — The Bride and Groom. — Entrance of the Bishop. — Crowning the Pair, — A Cup of Wine. — A Circle made. — Sugar Plums. — A Compulsory Marriage. — Marriage among the Lower Orders. — Eelatives make the Match. — Preliminary Steps. — Gifts to the Bride's Father. — Nuptial Procession. — Bride carried away. — Termination of the Festivities. — A Greek Baptism. — Trine Immersion. — A Token given to Witnesses. — A Funeral Procession. — Colly va. — Offerings to the Dead 88

CHAPTER Vin.

THE COUET AND POLITICS OF GREECE.

American Vessels of War, — Colocotroni, Master of Ceremonies. — Adventure of an American Lieutenant. — Cautious Officers. — Presentation at Court. — Queen Amelia. — King Otho. — The Constitution. — Constitutional Provisions. — Liberty Guaranteed. — Elections. — A Political Measure. — Kussian, French, and English Parties. — The Cro-wn independent. — Bad State of Koads. — Banditti in the Mountains... 103

CHAPTER IX.

THE GREEK CHURCH.

Nationality and Religion. — The Holy Sjmod. — Separation from the Patriarchate. — The Synodical Tome. — Pharmakides. — Differences from the Latin Church. — The Catechism of Plato. — Mariolatry. — The Parish Priests. — Ignorance and Corruption. — Pilgi-ims to the Holy Places. — Ecclesiastical Parties. — Obstacles to Missionary Success, — Dr. King. — Dr. Hill. — Hopeful Indications. 115

CONTENTS. Vii

CHAPTER X.

CHURCH FESTIVALS AT ATHENS.

Silent Streets. — The Twelve Gospels. — Persecution of the Jews. — Good Friday at St. Irene's. — The Epitaphion. — A Torchlight Procession. — Kyi'ie Eleyson. — Easter Dawn. — Christos Aneste. — The Second Anastasis. — Dances at the Temple of Theseus. — The Romaica. — Blessing the Sea. — Feast of the Three Hierarchs. — Interior of a Church. — Celebration of the Mass, — Standing in Worship. Page 128

CHAPTER XL

THREE DAYS IN ARGOLIS.

Passports. — Leaving Pirseus. — A Party on Deck. — A Representative Electioneering. — Island of Hydra. — The Home of Liberty. — Nauplia from the Bay, — The Lernian Hydra. — Streets of Nauplia. — Plain of Argos, — Wall of Tiryns, — Description by Pausanias, — Mycense. — The Treasury of Atreus, — Acropolis of Mycenae, — Gate of Lions. — Its History. — A Dish of Snails. — Beggars at Argos, — Theatre in the Rock, — Market-place of Argos, — Murder of Capo d'lstria, — Pass of Troetus. — ^Rout of Drami Ali. — A Rainy Morning. — The Temple of Nemea. — Khan of Courtessa. — Shepherds' Huts. — The Inn at Corinth. — The Acrocorinthus, — St, Paul at Corinth. — The Isthmus. 137

CHAPTER XII.

^GINA AND EPIDAURUS, Mode of Traveling, — Selection of a Guide, — Delay at Pirasus, — ^Becalmed on the Saronic Gulf, — Devotions of the Sailors. — The Island of vEgina. — Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius. — Sail to Epidaurus. — Declaration of Independence. — Ruins of Epidaurus, — Nicholas and the Agoyates. — Hiero of -^sculapius, — An Ancient Watering-place. —Nauplia 160

CHAPTER XIII.

MANTINEA—TRIPOLITZA— SPARTA, The Argolic Plain, — Routes into Arcadia, — A Katavothron, — Hysiee, — Plain of Mantinea, — Ruins of the Wall. — Battles at Mantinea. — -Smallness of Grecian States, — Fair at Tripolitza, — A Murderous Assault, — Tegea. — A Country Papas. — Tardy Vegetation. — Battle-field of Sellasia. — Vourlia. — A Portable Cradle. — Site of Ancient Sparta. — Roman Ruins. — Modern Sparta. — A Sarcophagus. — Interior of a Khan... 173

CHAPTER XIV.

MEGALOPOLIS AND MESSENE.

Ride to " The Great City." — The Theatre. — Inquisitive Scholars. — Mo-

reote Shepherds. — Messenian Plain. — Mount Ithome. — Struggles of

Freedom. — Policy of Epaminondas, — Monastery of Vurcano. — Ruins

of Messene. — The Great Gate. — Rustic Wonderment. — ^Dragoi,, 192 viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTEK XV.

PHIGALEA, OLYMPIA, AND AECADIA.

Phigalea.— The Sirocco.— Temple of Apollo Epicurius.— Andritzena.— Banks of the Alpheus.— Tributaries of the Alpheus.— Vale of Olympia. — Temple of Jupiter.— Eide to Lala. — A Scene in the Kevolution. — An Afternoon at Tripotamo. — Psophis. — A New Koute. — Village Discussion. — Clitor. — Ancient Coins. — Arcadian Shepherds. — Primitive Ploughs. — Greek Oaths. — Outlet of Lake Pheneus. — A Serious Mishap. — The Monastery of Phonia Page 203

CHAPTEE XVI.

STYX, MEGASPELION, AND VOSTITZA.

A Costly Shrine.— A Monk's Views of Philosophy.— The Village of Solos. — Patriotic Exploits. — A primitive Lamp. — The " Eiver Styx." — Its mysterious Properties. — View of the Corinthian Gulf. — Birth-place of the Eevolution. — Calavryta. — Cross-questioning. — Monastery of Megaspelion. — The Monks. — St. Luke as a Sculptor. — The Wine-cellar. — Library. — History of Megaspelion. — Eide to Vostitza. — Bargaining for a Boat 218

CHAPTER XVII.

DELPHI— PARNASSUS— CHJSRONEA.

Crossing the Corinthian Gulf. — Scala of Salona. — Crissa. — Necropolis of Delphi. — Village of Castri. — Castalian Fount. — Oracle of Apollo. — Ascent of Mount Parnassus. — Corycian Cave. — A Disappointment. — Schiste. — Daulis. — Panopeus. — Battle-ground of Ch^ronea. — Tumulus and Colossal Lion. — Population of Greece. — Lebadea or Livadia. — Cave of Trophonius. — Monastery of Scripu — Treasury of Minyas. — Acropolis of Orchomenus. — Lake Copais. — Victory of the Catalans. — A "Kake Scala." — Euins of Abse 232

CHAPTER XVIII.

THERMOPYLJi AND EUBCEA.

Costume of the Women at Exarcho. — Hyampolis. — Masonry of the Ancients. — Elatea. — Seizure of Elatea by Philip. — Consternation at Athens. — The Papas at Pundonitza. — Pass of Thermopylge. — Change of Physical Aspect. — The Hot Springs. — Thessaly Phthiotis. — Lamia or Zeitun. — Eobbers. — Their Inroad into Eachi. — Tortures. — Larissa Cremaste. — Detention by a Health-officer. — Crossing to Euboea. — Oreos or Histisea. — Xerochori. — Fine Scenery.' — An Englishman's Estate. — Insecurity.— Traveling in Euboea. — Chalcis. — Discovery of Ancient Armor 249

CONTENTS. ix

CHArTER XIX.

THEB12S AND ELEUSIS,

Chalcis under Venetian Rule. — Euripus. — Bridge. — An Ancient Greek Road. — Site of Aulis. — Plain of the Asopus. — Tanagra. — Thebes. — ThebanPlain. — SiteofThespice. — Fountainof Aganippe. — Battle-field of Leuctra. — Plataa. — Battle-ground. — Ascent of Mount Citharon. — Acropolis of CEnoe. — Interior of a Tower. — Ancient Fortifications. — Hellenic Tower. — Village and Acropolis of Eleusis. — The Sacred- Way. — Monastery of Daphne. — Return to Athens Page 208

CHAPTER XX.

RAMBLES IN ATTICA.

Excursion to Marathon. — Cephisia. — Pass of Deceleia. — Plain of Marathon . — Cynosura. — Funeral Mound. — Battle-ground. — Numbers engaged. — Temple of Minerva Hellotis. — Marathona. — Return. — Excursion to Sunium. — Fountains built by the Road-side. — Silver Mines of Mount Laurium. — Temple of Minerva at Sunium. — Excursion to Phyle. — Cephissus. — Colonos. — Caly\'ia of Khassia. — Fortress of Phyle. — View of Athens. — Thrasybulus at Phyle. — Excursion to the Marble Quarries of Pentelicus. — Village of Calandri. — The Ai-butus. — Quarries. — Inclined Plane. — Prospect from the Summit of Mount Pentelicus. — Mount Hymettus. — A Warrior Abbot. — Honey of Hymettus. — Straits of Salamis. — Battle of Salamis 283

CHAPTER XXI.

THE MODERN GREEK LANGUAGE.

Close Resemblance to the Ancient. — Its Disadvantage in Comparison with other modern Languages. — Sounds of its Consonants and Diphthongs. — Pronounced according to Accent. — Grammatical Changes. — Introduction of Words from Foreign Tongues. — Reaction within the present Century. — Influence of the University, the Government, and the Press. — Number of Newspapers and Periodicals at Athens 307

CHAPTER XXn.

THE MODERN GREEK LITERATURE.

Low Condition of Greece in the Last Century.— A Revival of Learning. — New Schools. — A Religious Literature. — Remarks of Lord Byron. — " Cathreptes Gynaicon" — -Adamantius Coray. — His Early Life. — Taught by Bernard Keun. — Removes to France. — Translates Strabo.— Various Publications.^T-His Prolegomena. — Papa Trechas. — Religious Views of Coray. — Translates the "Advice of Three Bishops." — Considers the Revolution premature. — Neophytus Doukas. — His Views in respect to the Modern Greek, and those of Coray. — Publications of Doukas. — Panagiotes Soutsos. — Alexander Soutsos. —

A2

X CONTENTS.

Eangabes. — Salomos. — Coumanoudes. — Lyric Poems of Christopoulos. — Neophytus Bambas. — Translation of the Bible. — A Text-book in the Schools. — Professor Asopius. — A. Kadinos. — Antiquities. — Pittakes. — Archaological Society. — Historical Studies. — Germanos. — Speliades. — Tricoupes.— Mamoukas. — Mediaeval History. — Oriental Eesearches. — ^Demetrius Galanos. — A Greek Book in Roman Characters. — Pharmakides. — Influence of the Learned Professions. — Speech of Saripolos. — Greek Lexicography Page 313

CHAPTER XXIIL

BALLAD POETEY.

Popular Songs of Greece. — Their Value. — Very short-lived. — Subjects of Ballads. — Principles of Greek Poetry. — The Kleftic Songs. — History and Manners of the Klefts. — Their Head-quarters. — Incidents referred to in the Ballads. — Lament of a Wounded Kleft. — Death of Metros. — Parallelisms. — Song of Boucovallas. — Th&Panegyri. — SongS of the Plains. — On special Occasions. — At Parting. — At a Wedding. — Mcerologia, or Laments. — Religious Poems. — Remains of Popular Superstitions 343

CHAPTER XXIV.

TRIAL OF DR. KING.

A Trial appointed. — Distribution of printed Handbills. — Appearance of the Court-room. — Trial not by Jury. — Witnesses for the Prosecution. — Vagueness of the Testim6ny. — Its Irrelevancy. — Partiality of the Court. — Speech of the King's Attorney. — Counsel for the Accused. — ^Dr. King not allovv^ed to defend himself. — Decision. — Sentence of Imprisonment and Banishment. — Excitement after the Trial. — Crafty Delay of the King's Attorney. — Appeal to the Areopagus. — Its Decision. — Dr. King protests. — Opinions of the Press of Athens. — Other Grievances. — Mission of Mr. Marsh. — Evasive Policy of the Court. — The Greek Government finally yields. — Results of the Trial.... 355

CHAPTER XXV.

DEPARTURE FROM ATHENS— SYRIA— CORFU.

Pirseus. — ^Daughter of Marco Bozzaris. — Mr. Contostaulos. — Manufacture of Silk. — The "Maid of Athens." — Remains of Piraus. — Altar of the "Unknown God." — Antipathy of Greeks to pubhc Executions. — Hermopolis, or Syra. — Its Commerce. — Schools of Rev. Mr. Hildner. — Bay of Navarino. — Zante. — Corfu. — Shrine of St. Spyridon. — A reputed Miracle. — Mission among the Jews. — Ancient Corcyra. — Ionian Confederation. — Italian Language supplanted by the Greek 368

ILLUSTRATIONS.

View op Athens from the Stadium Title-page.

Gate of Hadrian at Athens 13

Acropolis from the Pntx 21

The PROPYLiEA 30

Temple op Victory without wings 37

The Parthenon 38

Frieze of the Parthenon .\ 41

The Erechtheuim 43

A Cartatis 44

The ERECHTHEuai restored 46

The Bema of the Pntx at Athens 48

Choragic Monument op Lysicrates 55

Street of the Tripods 56

Odeum of Herodes = 58

MoNuiviENT OF Philopappus 60

Bas-relief from the Monument of Lysicrates 67

HoROLOGiuiM OF Andronicus Cyrrhestes 68

EuiNS OF the Temple of the Olysipian Jove 76

University of Otho at Athens 77

The Acropolis restored 87

The Acropolis, from the Hill op the Museum. 88

View of Athens '. 103

A Greek Church 115

Tezviple op Theseus at Athens 128

Nauplia, from the Bay 137

Arch in the Wall of Tiryns 144

Gate of Lions at Mycen^ 149

Temple of Jupiter at Nemea 155

View op Corinth and the Acrocorinthus 159

Temple op Jupiter at ^gina 160

Interior of the Khan of Georgitzana 173

Xll ILLUSTRATIONS.

Wall of the Citadel at Argos 174

View of Mount Taygetus from the Site of Sparta 184

The Great Gate of Messene 192

Ithome, from the Stadium of Messene 201

Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bass^e 203

EuiNS OF the Temple of Jupiter at Oltmpia 218

Monastery of Megaspelion 226

Interior of the Acropolis of CEnob 232

View of Delphi and Mount Parnassus 237

The Plain of Chjeeonea 241

Ruined Tower near CEnoe 249

Peasant Woman of Exarcho , 250

View of Thermopylae 255

The Acropolis of CEnoe 268

Interior of a Tower at CEnoe 277

The Plain of Marathon 288

The Mound at Marathon 286

View of Phyle 293

Temple of Minerva at Sltjium 307

Fortress of Phyle 313

The Straits of Salamis 343

House of Jonas King, D.D 355

Gate of the New Agora 368

MODERN GREECE.

CHAPTER I.

APPEOACH TO ATHENS.

"Whoever does not wish to see Athens, is foolish ; he who sees it and is not pleased with it, is more foolish ; but the climax of folly is to have seen it, to be pleased with it, and yet to leave it." — Ancient Author.

On a beautiful morning toward the end of September, I found myself on board the French steam-ship Lycurge, off the eastern coast of Lacedgemonia. For the last three days, since leaving Yaletta, we had been sailing slowly and quietly over a motionless sea in a direct course for Cape Matapan. Only at noon, on the previous day, had the faint outline of distant mountains become perceptible ; and at dusk we approached the shores of Messenia. We were not yet near enough, however, to view with any distinctness the island of Sphacteria, behind which was fought the Battle of Navarino.

14 APPROACH TO ATHENS.

The wind had been contrary all night, and we made but little progress after doubling Cape Matapan. When I came on deck in the morning, the first objects visible on shore were the high mountains, not very distant, that skirt this side of Peloponnesus. So barren did they seem, that scarce a patch of verdure relieved their rugged uniformity. Below this rocky chain could be descried, as though rising out of the waves, the sea-girt walls and towers of Monembasia, a locality which finds no record in ancient history, but has appeared conspicuous in recent wars. Built, not unlike Gibraltar, on the end of a small peninsula, it is so strongly fortified both by nature and by art as to be nearly impregnable.

The sea was calm and unruffled. Not a ripple could be seen disturbing its placid surface. The sky was cloudless, and the day one of the fairest of autumn. The clear atmosphere gave to all around a deceptive appearance, which was quite new to me. The most distant objects seemed close at hand, and I could scarcely credit the assertion of the captain that we were at least five or six miles from shore. The steamer plowed its way as over the dark blue waters of some small inland lake.

We were n,ot many hours in crossing the mouth of the Argolic Gulf, and approaching the group of islands that lie off the extremity of the northeastern peninsula of the Morea. The pretty town of Spetzia appeared on our left, built upon the side of a hill and running down to the water's edge; In. half an hour more we were opposite the picturesque town of Hydra, where were born most of the distinguished naval commanders in the Revolution. At length, about noon, wie entered the Saronic Gulf, and Attica itself came into sight. The passengers collected on the bows, and watched with eagei eyes the shore, which seemed rather to recede as we advanced. The only unconcerned spectators were a group of Frenchmen, who, seated on a pile of luggage on the forecastle, were div€*rting themselves with a game of cards. Running by the islaiid of ^gina, on whose height we could easily distinguish with a glass the ruined columns of the temple of Jupiter, in the midst of a wild and desolate district, we made toward the port of Piraeus. For miles far out on the Saronic Gulf, a white building served as a beacon to indicate the site of Athens it-

PIR^US ^VND ITS HARBOR. 15

self. It was the palace of King Otho. The rest of the town was hidden from our sight by the hill of the Acropolis. Presently we could see the high signal-pole standing on the promontory Munychium. At about four o'clock we had rounded it, and were entering Piraeus through a narrow opening, guarded on both sides by the ruins of ancient moles.

The paddle-wheels had scarcely ceased to move before we were surrounded by a multitude of row-boats, each manned by a Greek in the native costume, wearing the bright red fezi slouched on his head, and a long blue tassel fluttering in the wind. All were loud in their appeals ; but as the quarantine officers had not yet made us their visit, they kept a respectful distance. ''Have a boat, sirf^ '' Voulez-vous im Idteauf resounded from all quarters ; while the less favored linguists, relying mainly on the strength of their lungs to make themselves understood, poured forth a volley of unintelligible Greek, Though I had been schooling myself to the native pronunciation under the friendly direction of a pleasant Sciote, whose lessons had relieved the tedium of the passage from Marseilles, their volubility was too much for my small practice. Rather than resign myself to the tender mercies of the boatmen, I resolved to make common cause with my companion, the Greek merchant. After a short delay, leave was given us to land, and this served as a signal for the simultaneous onset of half a score of couriers and runners for the hotels, each eager to get custom. We soon found the one we wanted, and, having secured our luggage, embarked in one of the boats for shore. We left the motley group of watermen, expecting every moment to see them fall from brawling to fighting; but their disputes never result in any thing more serious than the success of one in supplanting the rest.

The harbor of Pirseus is less than three-fourths of a mile in length, and opens toward the west; where, between the piers that project from either side, a heavy chain was stretched during the earlier ages. The modern town lines the eastern side with a continuous row of neat white houses, generally two stories in height. A number of sloops and caiques were drawn up to the wharves, but the brigs and larger vessels stood out at anchor in deeper water.

16 APPROACH TO ATHENS.

A custom-house officer and a dozen idlers awaited our arrival on Grecian soil. The examination of our effects was brief, owing, perhaps, partly to the happy influence of a silver coin or two, which my companion managed to slip dexterously into the hand of the inspecting officer. We were in no mood after our long sea-voyage to remain longer than necessary at Piraeus. My friend and myself were equally intent upon reaching our journey's end, and enjoying a respite from the fatigue and vexation of travel. I am wrong, however, in representing our eagerness as equal. I had before me only the prospect of a long, though, it is true, far from uninteresting course of study, on classic ground. The Sciote who stood beside me, an intelligent man of five-and-forty, had accumulated a handsome fortune in foreign parts, and was connected with the extensive mercantile house of A. and Co.* He had come hither, as I subsequently learned, on an errand of love.

* Mr. A., from his extensive business connections, was able to give me much valuable information respecting the Greek mercantile houses, which are every year increasing in number and in importance. I was astonished to learn how numerous they are. They already abound in England. Manchester may be styled their head-quarters, for there are no fewer than sixty Greek establishments in that city. London possesses forty more, and Liverpool seven. Trieste boasts of seventy, and Marseilles, Odessa, and Leghorn, each of more than twenty. How many are to be found in Constantinople it is quite impossible to state : certainly one hundred would be a very small estimate. Such were the statements of a merchant, than whom no one could be found with better means of acquiring accurate information. The wonderful success of these commercial houses he attributed to their unity of action more than to any other single cause. Prudence in all their investments, combined with rare sagacity, has insured them against loss of capital and reputation. The great houses of Eallis, Argentis, and others, have branches all over the globe, each to a certain degree independent, and yet each reposing an implicit confidence in the others. In this way, by their tact and by their union, the Greek houses have begun to exercise an important influence on the trade of the East, which is little by Httle falling into their hands. Through their instrumentality, Manchester fabrics are distributed over Asia Minor in exchange for native produce. The Eastern war has doubtless augmented their influence upon the grain market of the world, and the number of Greek merchants at Liverpool must now be far greater than in 1851. Mr. A.'s statements are confirmed in almost every particular by the writer of an able article on this subject in the New York Daily Times of October 20, 18.55.

PLA.IN OF ATHENS. 17

Having "vvell-nigli, if not quite, attained the age of an old bachelor, he had bethought himself of matrimony ; and, casting about for a wife, had fixed his choice upon a certain damsel whose good looks and good qualities he had taken upon trust. The negotiations between the parents and himself (for it is not customary to attach much weight to the young lady's choice in such matters) had proved mutually satisfactory. The happy man was now on his way to Athens for the first time to find his betrothed, of whose personal appearance, except by means of a portrait and descriptions, he knew about as much as I did. The lady in question was also a native of Scio, whose children rarely marry into families of foreign extraction.

Our courier had provided a carriage, one of the best the place could boast of, and we jumped in ; the Greek official touched his cap, and we rattled off through the streets of Piraeus. We noticed, in passing, that the streets along the wharves were well paved, and all the thoroughfares laid out with strict regard to symmetry and a regular plan. The better class of houses, too, were built of stone, neatly stuccoed. It was not long ere we emerged from the town, and entered upon the road which leads in a nearly direct line to Athens, a distance of about five miles. Nothing was requisite to beguile our attention as we rode toward "the city," as the Athenian of the olden time was wont to style it by pre-eminence. We sat watching with no common emotion the various objects that successively presented themselves to the eye. For the first time I began to realize that I was at length in Greece, and that the curtain was soon to rise upon the scene of so many triumphs of art and eloquence. As we issued from the streets of Pirseus, the heights back of the town intercepted the whole prospect ; but presently the plain of Athens unfolded itself before us in all its loveliness. On the right, but a few hundred yards distant, was the bay of Phalerum, running parallel to the road, and afterward making a gradual bend where the sea is nearest to Athens. Beyond it stretched the long ridge of Mount Hymettus, barren of trees and uncultivated. To the left, in the distance, rose the more pointed summit of Pentelicus, whose marble rock, exposed by the quarryings

18 APPROACH TO ATHENS.

weighed down under the heavy load of the dark-blue clusters, of past centuries, reflected the rays of the sun like new-fallen snow. Then came Mount Parnes, and a chain of lower hills running down from it to the sea-shore opposite the Straits of Salamis, whose rugged isle, cleft with many a deep ravine, terminated the panorama. In the midst of the plain could be descried, far on before us, the city of Athens itself, or rather a portion of it ; for the greater part lay concealed behind the Acropolis, on whose summit could barely be distinguished the columns of the Parthenon, so discolored by time as to have assumed a sober autumnal tint.

For two or three miles the dusty road along which we drove has been built on the foundations of one of the " Long Walls" connecting Athens with its port. Adjoining it is a low, marshy meadow, in the middle of which stands a lonely monument, small and plain, marking the grave of Kariskakis, who fell here in a conflict with the Turks during the Revolution. The ground about it is strewn with the bones of his brave comrades, and ever and anon, as the plough or some accident reveals to the sight a skull or a solitary bone, the peasant adds it to the heap which has accumulated within a neighboring inclosure, where the remains of so many heroes lie bleaching in the sun.

Passing this spot, the road crossed the scanty bed of the Cephissus, and "entered the olive-grove which clothes either bank of the river with its dark-green foliage. The trunks of the olive-trees were thick, and occasionally assumed fantastic shapes like the willows that grow in some parts of Switzerland. Emerging from the grove, which only flourishes where the trees can be constantly supplied with water, we came to vineyards, each surrounded with its low wall of sun-dried clay, and protected from the effects of sunshine and rain by a sort of thatch of straw or brush. The vines, like all surrounding vegetation, had a dry and dusty aspect. Not a green patch of grass was any where to be seen. The distant fields were brown, as if parched by the prevailing heat ; for since April or May no rain had fallen, with the exception, perhaps, of one or two transient showers. The vines were kept trimmed within a short distance of the ground, and the branches were