India and Ceylon

Front matter

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Introduction

Ernst Heinrich Haeckel was born in Germany in 1834, and is now a Professor of Zoology at the University of Jena. He was among the first German writers to agree with Darwin, and is one of the foremost leaders in that school of biologists, having published several works on biological themes in which he has advanced some interesting theories of his own. For earnestness of study, and for the forcible and lucid manner in which Prof. Haeckel expresses his ideas, he ranks at the head of all the scientists of to-day.

I have endeavored in the following pages to give a coherent version, if not strictly literal translation of Prof. Haeckel's interesting "Letters of Indian Travel," which appeared in serial form in the Rundsclum (1882). Although the territory traversed by the Professor is no terra incognita to most readers, and many travelers, still he writes so enthusiastically and entertainingly about subjects which have heretofore appeared in merely scientific dress, statistics reports, and encyclopaedias, that I trust a version of them will be acceptable to the American reader.

Translator.

FROM THE GERMAN OF PROFESSOR ERNST HAECKEL.

TRANSLATED BY 8. M BOGGS.

Ok the Way to India.

" Eeally going to India?" questioned my friends in Jena; and, Eeally going to India, I repeated, I know not how often after I, at the close of the past winter, fully impressed with the melancholy dreariness of our North-German February, decided to spend the next winter in the tropical sunshine of that wonder-island Ceylon.

In this age of travel, when no part of our globe is spared by the adventuresome tourist, a voyage to India is no greatfeat. "We speed across the most distant seas in the comfortable and luxurious steamships of the present, in less time, and with less ceremony and fewer accidents, than attended the dreaded journey to Italy a hundred years ago. Even a " tour around the world in eighty days" is become a familiar thought; and many inexperienced cosmopolitans, who possess the funds necessary for such a tour, imagine that it gives them a better, a more comprehensive "education," than they could obtain by ten years' hard study in our best schools*

With this fact in view, I can scarcely hope that my journey to India will arouse any particular interest — especially as an abundance of the best literature descriptive of that wonderful country is already in existence — and I ought perhaps to apologize for asking the reader to accompany me. My personal interests as naturalist and nature's friend alone prompt the journey I am about to undertake.

The most earnest desire of every naturalist that has made the organic forms of life a lifelong study, is to stand face to face with the wonders of nature in the tropics; for only here, under the enhancing influence of the sun's light and heat, are developed those astonishing types of form compared with which the flora and fauna of our temperate zone are but weak and colorless imitations.

Already as a boy, when poring over my favorite descriptions of travel, nothing charmed me so much as the primitive forests of India and Brazil; and later, when Humboldt's " Views of Nature," Schleiden's "Plant Life," and Darwin's " Voyage Around the World. " influenced my'plans for the future, a journey to the equatorial region became my chief desire. Believing that if I were a physician I might accomplish my purpose, I studied medicine in addition to botany and zoology; but a long period was to elapse before the realization of my cherished dream! The various attempts I made twenty-five years ago, after the termination of my medical studies, to accomplish the long-dreamed-of tropical journey were of no avail. I was fortunate enough, however, to spend a whole year on the shores of the Mediterranean, absorbed in studying the multifarious population of its waters.

Soon after my return from the Mediterranean certain professional duties, and an unexpected change in my private affairs, thrust all plans of travel into the remote background.

On Easter of 1861 I entered upon a professorship in the University of Jena, a position I have occupied for twenty years. Daring this time my vacations have been spent, in imitation of my distinguished master and friend Johannes Muller, in studying zoology along the seashores. An extraordinary predilection for the interesting study of the lower sea- animals — particularly the zoophytes and protozoans — gradually led me to visit every coast in Europe.

In the preface of my "System of the Medusae" (1879) I have given a summary of the shores on which I fished, sketched, and made microscopic observations. But the diversified coast of the Mediterranean, whose attractions are, in many respects, far superior to any other place, always remained my favorite hunting ground.

I twice crossed the boundaries of my favorite territory. The winter of 1866-67 was spent among the Canary Islands, chiefly on Lanzarote, a volcanic island almost devoid of vegetation.

In the spring of 1873 I made a delightful excursion on an Egyptian war- ship, from Suez to Tur, of which I give an account in my "Arabian Corals" (1875). Both of these journeys took me to within a few degrees of the equatorial region — quite near enough to give me an idea of its exuberant vegetation.

The more a naturalist sees of our beautiful world the more desirous he becomes to enlarge his sphere of knowledge.

Shortly after my return from Genoa (1880)— where, thanks to Mr. Montague Brown, the English consul, I obtained many zoological and botanical treasures — chance threw into myhands Kansonnet's excellent work on Ceylon, and the tantalizing reminiscences of Portofino made the wonders of the Indian cinnamon-island appear all the more alluring. I consulted various route-books, and was rejoiced to find that the "struggle for existence" between the several Indian steamship lines had, naturally, reduced the high rates of passage, and had doubtless also abated many of the nuisances formerly attendant upon an Indian voyage. The announcement by the Austrian Lloyd Steamship Company that they now ran two lines of steamers to India (both touching at Ceylon) was of special interest to me. My numerous trips on the Mediterranean had very favorably impressed me with the Austrian Lloyd, and I at once concluded that through them I might at last attain my long-cherished wish. The voyage from Triest to Ceylon, by way of Aden, requires about four weeks. Six days are spent between Triest and Port Said, two days in the Suez Canal, six in the Red Sea, and eleven on the Indian Ocean between Aden and Ceylon. From three to four days are spent in touching at the different ports on the route. Accordingly a six months' leave of absence would allow two months for the voyage to and from India, and four months for travelling in Ceylon.

Circumstances which need not be here mentioned favoring an immediate decision, I began at once to prepare for the journey. Leave of absence was easily obtained, and a generous sum of money for the collection of natural curiosities was cheerfully granted by the Grand-ducal Government of Weimar.

In our day the naturalist who goes to the seashore to investigate marine plant and animal life, requires more than a microscope and the few simple instruments of twenty — nay ten years ago.

The methods for biological, and particularly microscopic research have wonderfully developed in the past decade, and a complicated apparatus is now considered indispensable for the performance of the simplest tasks. Consequently I was obliged to ship from Triest, sixteen chests and boxes. Two contained only the most necessary scientific works; two enclosed a microscope, physical and anatomical instruments; two others held the implements required for collecting, and the means for preserving, specimens of Indian flora and fauna. The remaining boxes contained several thousand vials, nets of all description, fishing-tackle, photographic camera, and the various articles I should require for sketching in oils and water-colors; a double-barrelled gun and ammunition, and lastly a supply of linen and clothing for a six months' journey.

In face of this imposing outfit, the preparing and packing of which caused me infinite worry and labor, I may consider myself rarely lucky in that not a single wish concerning my undertaking remained unfulfilled. It is a well-known fact that among all the investigations of marine life undertaken in late years, none have brought to light so many astonishing results as the deep-sea explorations of ,the English zoologists Sir Wyville Thomson, Messrs. Car- (jpenter, Murray, Moseley, and others.

Twenty years ago it was believed that no life existed at the bottom of the ocean, that organic life ceased at a depth ^^ of two thousand feet; but the deep-sea investigations of ; the last ten years have substantially confuted this erroneous belief. That the ocean is densely populated to the depth of twenty-seven thousand feet with creatures of various species heretofore wholly unknown has been proved; and it has also been demonstrated that the different zones of the ocean are as abundantly supplied with diversified plant life as are the different flora-belts of the mountains.

The unequalled explorations of the Challenger expedition were confined chiefly to the Atlantic and parts of the Pacific oceans; the vast expanse of water comprising the Indian Ocean was not invaded, except at its most southerly boundary. Consequently an almost inconceivable wealth of new and wonderful creatures will doubtless reward the naturalist who first casts his perfected deep-sea net into the unexplored basin of the Indian Ocean.

Then was not I excusable if, while preparing for my journey to this unexplored region, I wished that I might be the one to discover hidden treasures? Even though the attempt proved abortive, it would still be the first !

But deep-sea explorations are a costly pleasure, even though they be conducted, as I proposed, in the simplest and most inexpensive manner. I could not think of undertaking such a project with my own private means, but I hoped to receive substantial support from those institutions which were founded solely for scientific purposes.

In this I was disappointed, and the initial investigation of the Indian Ocean remains to be made by a more fortunate explorer. For me it is to be hoped that the surface-water of that tropical sea will yield so much that is new and interesting that my brief holiday will be all too short for the full solution of its problems.

In contradistinction to this and some other far from agreeable experiences while preparing for my journey, I received the warmest encouragement and support from many valued friends, who, directly my plans were made known, sought in every way to further them. My heartiest thanks are due to Charles Darwin, Dr. Paul Eottenburg, of Glasgow; Sir Wyville Thomson, and John Murray, Esq., of Edinburgh. Also to Professor Edward Suess, of Vienna; Baron von Konigsbrunn, of Gratz; Heinrich Krauseneck, and Captain Eadonetz, of Triest.

My special gratitude is due to his royal highness the Grand Duke Carl Alexander of Saxe- Weimar, the Rector

Magnificentissimus of the Jena University, and to the hereditary grand dnke, through whose kindly agency I received letters of introduction from the English Colonial Minister to the governor of Ceylon.

My arrangements at last completed, and the sixteen boxes sent in advance to Triest, I was ready to take leave of dear quiet Jena on the morning of the 8th of October. When the last moment arrived, I found that a six months' absence from home would be no easy task for the father of a family who had already attained the age of forty-eight years. With what different emotions would I have taken my departure twenty-five years ago, when a tropical journey was the chief aim of my life! True, the experience of twenty-five years of teaching and zoological study would enable me to accomplish more than I could have done a quarter of a century ago. But I was twenty-five years older. Would the concrete wonders of tropical nature possess the same fascination for me now that I had penetrated the abstract dominions of natural philosophy?

These and kindred thoughts, together with the most doleful impressions of my last farewells to home and friends, passed through my brain as the train bore me through the cold gray autumnal mists which enshrouded my beloved Saale valley.

Only the tallest peaks of our magnificent musclieUcalJc mountains rose above the misty sea; on the right, Hausberg with his " rosy radiant summit," the proud pyramid of the Jenzig, and the romantic ruins of Kunitzburg. On the left stretched the wooded heights of Ran thai; and, further on, Goethe's favorite retreat, charming Dornburg. I waved an adieu to these dear old mountain friends, and promised to return to them in good health, and richly laden with Indian treasures.

As if to ratify the promise they gave me their friendliest morning greeting: the dense fog suddenly fell from their shoulders, and the triumphant sun rose into a perfectly cloudless sky. Thousands of dewdrops bLized like jewels in the azure cups of the lovely gentians decorating the grassy slopes on either side of the iron road.

I took advantage of the several hours' halt in Leipzig to make some necessary additions to my travelling equipments,

INDIA AND CEYLON. IS

and to enjoy a brief view of the noble masterpieces in the public picture gallery.

Then on to Dresden and Vienna.

After a brief halt in the latter city I continued my journey to Gratz. It was a glorious sunshiny Sunday, and the alpine beauties of the Semmering glowed with splendor. It was twenty years ago when I botanized in the woody ravines and flower-adorned alp-farms of romantic Steiermark, but every nook on the Schneeberg and the Kax- Alp is still remembered with pleasure. In those days the youthful Doctor Medicinae was more devoted to the interesting flora and fauna of the mountains, than to the instructive clinics of Oppolzer and Skoda, Hebra and Siegmund; and often, while gathering the hardy alpine plants, dreamed of the luxuriant vegetation of the tropics he was now so soon to see.

I spent a day in Gratz, where I found really excellent accommodations at the " Elephant Hotel." Could a more appropriate name have been found for the first hostelry in which I lodged on my way to India? The elephant, aside from his eminent position as one of the most important animals, is conspicuous in the armorial bearings of Ceylon, and I accepted the hospitable treatment of the Gratz elephant as a favorable prognostic of the acquaintance I hoped soon to make with his Indian brother. Just here I shall take the opportunity to insert an observation made for the benefit of my travel-loving fellows, especially for those that care less for the number of black-coated waiters at a hotel than for attentive service from them.

A long and varied experience with hotels of all grades has taught me that the traveller may, to a certain extent, judge the state and condition of these useful institutions by the titles they bear. I have divided them into three classes: the zoological-botanic, the dubious, and the dynastic. I have found that by far the best of the three is the zoological-botanic, as, for instance, the " Golden Lion," u White Horse," " Silver Swan," " Green Tree," " Golden Vine," etc. You cannot be certain of good and cheap accommodations in the houses which I have classified as dubious, and which have no affinity with either the first or the third group; they bear various names (frequently that of the proprietor himself), and are of too heterogeneous a character for a definite generalization. I have had chiefly doleful experiences — high prices and inferior accommodations — with the dynastic class, such as the " Emperor of Russia," " King of Spain," etc. Of course, hy this classification I do not presume to establish a general rule, hut, on the whole, I believe that the critical and unpretending wanderer will find that I am right. The " Elephant" in G-ratz substantiated its claim to an honorable place in the zoological-botanic class.

Baron von Konigsbrunn, a distinguished landscape painter in Gratz, who had heard of my proposed journey to Ceylon, cordially invited me to inspect the sketches he had made while on that island in 1853. The baron travelled through the palm forests and fern ravines of the cinnamon island in company with Ritter von Eriedau and Professor Schmarda of Vienna, the latter of whom has given a comprehensive description of the island in his " Tour Around the World." Unfortunately the sketches which Baron von Konigsbrunn made, and which were originally intended to illustrate Professor Schmarda's work, were never published, a fact to be regretted, as they are the best and the most perfect of the kind I have yet seen. Alexander von Humboldt, certainly a competent judge, who submitted the views to the inspection of King Eriederich Wilhelm IV., expressed for them his highest praise.

These paintings, which illustrate Ceylon vegetation and scenery, possess two different — and, in a measure, opposing — qualities, which are rarely found in like works of art. They are, a conscientious adherence to nature in the reproduction of details, and an artistic freedom in the individual treatment and effective composition of the whole picture. Many of the landscapes by our most celebrated artists possess the second, but do not even suggest the first quality; while, on the other hand, in many of the so-called views of vegetation, by practical botanists, the absence of aesthetic perception is only too obvious. For a perfecc picture, the synthetic and subjective glance of the artist is as necessary as the analytic and objective eye of the naturalist; in other words, the perfect landscape must, like the portrait, unite striking resemblance to the subject with artistic perception of individual characteristics, and this attribute Konigsbrunn's sketches possess to a wonderful degree. I take this occasion to express my sincere thanks to the modest as well as gifted and original artist, and hope that his charming works of art may soon find their way from the obscurity of his studio to a deservedly promi • nent place in public.

On the 11th of October I bade adieu to the multitude of old and new friends in Gratz, and continued my journey on the Southern Railway to Triest. In the same compartment with me w r as an elderly gentleman whom at a first glance I recognized as English, and our first half -hour's conversation revealed a very interesting personage. It was Surgeon-general J. Macbeth, who had spent thirty-three years in India, in the service of his mother country. He had taken active part in a number of battles; had travelled throughout India, from Afghanistan to Malacca; had ascended the Himalaya Mountains, and travelled in Ceylon. His varied experiences on land and among different peoples, as well as his observations as physician and naturalist, were, as you may imagine, highly interesting and instructive, and I was almost sorry when our arrival at Triest near midnight concluded a most enjoyable conversation.

The three days I was compelled to wait in Triest for the sailing of the Austrian Lloyd steamer were passed in the society of old friends, whose hospitable treatment made the hours pass so quickly that no time was left for a visit to poetic Miramare, that enchanting castle by the sea, whose natural beauties eminently fit it for an act in the tragedy of " Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico," a promising subject for the dramatist of the future.

Nor was I able to make an excursion to Muggia Bay, the body of water so rich in sea animals, which became famous through Johannes Muller's discovery of the curious snail (Entoconcha mirahilis) which lives in the sea-cucumber (Holothure). Aware that the Austrian Lloyd Company had frequently accorded special privileges to scientific travellers, I hoped to obtain similar favors. I was successful beyond my expectations, and here express my gratitude to the manager of the line, Baron Marco di Morpurgo, and to the directors, among whom is my esteemed friend Captain Eadonetz. ' And now to embark!

I had my choice between the two splendid ships which

8ailed at the same time (15th October). The Helios touched at Aden, Bombay — where she remained eight days — Ceylon, Singapore, and Hong Kong. The Polluce touched at Jedda (the famous port of Mecca), Aden, Ceylon, and Calcutta. I chose the former vessel, which would give me a chance to visit Bombay and obtain a view of the Indian peninsula. Besides, the Helios, which was the better, faster, and larger of the two ships, was almost new, and of very attractive appearance. In addition to this, the name had a peculiar fascination for me. Could a more auspicious title than that of the ever-young sun-god be found for the vessel which was to bear me from the gray fog-regions of the north to the radiant sunshine and palm forests of the tropics?

Nomen et omen / Why might not I as well as my neighbor cherish a little superstition? Surely I might reckon on the favor of the sun-god, in whose honor I named a whole class of dainty protozoans, Heliozoa, i.e., sun-animals! Therefore, most worthy Helios, let this zoological oblation kindly dispose you towards an admiring mortal, and safelj bring him to the haven whore he would be!

The very first days of the voyage proved that the gait oi our Helios was a capital one. Although the sea was pretty rough there was comparatively little motion. Especially pleasant was the unusual neatness of everything about the vessel; there were no offensive odors from the kitchen and engine room — odors which contribute more towards seasickness than the rolling and pitching of the ship. Consequently I, and most of the passengers, escaped being seasick. The weather was uninterruptedly clear, and the sea generally smooth. Of all the voyages I have made, the one on the Helios was by far the pleasantest. Of course the agreeable company on board, and my cordial relations with the ship's officers, did much towards making it so.

The larger half of our company was composed of English army officers, government officials, and merchants. The other half was made up of Germans, Austrians, Bombay merchants, and a few missionaries. There was but a mcngre representation of the fair sex: only one German and five English ladies. My amiable country-woman, who sang and played on the piano, contributed not a little towards the entertainment of her fellow-passengers. She had spent the summer with her children in Frankfort, and was returning to her husband in Bombay — a semi-annual separation between husband and wife practised by so many German and English residents of India who are solicitous about the education and morals of their children. As is generally the case on a voyage of considerable duration, the passengers on the Helios became pretty well acquainted with each other, and formed themselves into little coteries. One group was formed by the missionaries, among whom was a Mr. Eowe, an American, who has written a very readable book on "Every-day Life in India;" a second group was composed of the English officers and merchants; a third comprised the Germans and Austrians, the ship's captain and doctor, and myself.

As I have said before, the weather during the entire voyage continued uniformly fair; the sky was serene and. cloudless; the sea smooth, or only gently undulating. Our good ship made every one of her ports at the appointed time; the victims of the demon seasickness were but few.

This uninterrupted sameness at length became monotonous. Beading, writing, cards, chess, music, vocal and instrumental, everything that is usually practised to relieve the tedium of a long voyage, had been exhausted the first week out. Consequently the five periods into which the day was divided by as many meal-times grew to be of more importance as the journey progressed. Unfortunately for me my poor German-professor's stomach is so very capricious on shipboard that— although I am rarely seasick — I always lose my appetite, while that of my fellow-passengers seems to increase in inverse ratio as mine diminishes. However, this condition of affairs enables me — as objective spectator — to observe the colossal capacity for what physiologists term the "consumption of luxuries." I have ever cherished a secret admiration for our able cousins across the Channel, whose gastronomic feats far surpass our own; but what I saw accomplished by an English major on board the Helios exceeded anything of the kind I ever beheld! This brave warrior enjoyed not only the five regular meals, with a liberal accompaniment of wine and beer, but most ingeniously managed to dispose of all manner of toothsome sweets and various beverages during the interyening periods. To me this gastronomic wonder seemed to have arrived at that state of development in which the perfected digestive organs are capable of constant activity, and I am strongly tempted to believe this activity was continued throughout the night, for I frequently saw the major stagger from his cabin at unconscionably early hours.

I have heard that the greater number of English residents in India who die from diseases contracted in that country invite their fate by excessive indulgence of the appetite.

As the meals on board an India-bound steamer are famous affairs — of vital importance indeed to some of the passengers — I may as well give the curious reader an idea as to what composes them. Coffee and bread are served at eight o'clock in the morning; at ten follows a general breakfast, at which appear eggs, meats, curry and rice, vegetables and fruits. At one o'clock " tiffin" — which is a luncheon of cold meats, bread and butter, potatoes, and tea. At five o'clock the regular dinner is served: soup, meats, with attendant relishes, farinaceous dishes, dessert, fruits, and coffee. Lastly, at eight o'clock in the evening a meal of tea, bread and butter, etc., concludes the list.

Very few of the passengers fail to make their appearance in the dining-saloon at the appointed hours. After meals the passengers promenade the deck, or recline in comfortable Chinese chairs, and discuss the never-changing tint of the azure sky and water.

An ever- welcome incentive to increased mental activity are the different marine creatures which occasionally appear: dolphins disporting around the vessel, gulls and petrels encircling gracefully overhead, or darting down upon their finny prey. Sometimes swarms of flying-fish skim swiftly across the crests of the waves. The delicate medusae always charmed me most, and I was only sorry that the swift course of the vessel prevented me from securing some of these beautiful animals. In the Mediterranean Ocean, which is especially rich in sea-nettles, I saw two mammoth specimens: a blue Pilema pulmo, and a golden- brown Cotylorhiza tuberculata, and in the Indian Ocean a rose-colored Aurelia, and a dark-red Pelagia.

The voyage from Triest to Bombay (twenty-four days) was accomplished under such favorable conditions that there is scarcely anything of interest to chronicle. My former vo} r - ages iti the blue Adriatic were chiefly along the picturesque shores of Istria and Dalmatia, the rosemary-scented islands of Lissa and Lesina, on the latter of which, in 1871, I spent a very pleasant month in the Franciscan monastery with the eminent Padre Buona Grazia.

This time our course was more toward the west — toward the middle of the Adriatic, as we were to land for several passengers at Brindisi. Above the heights of Canossa hung a black cloud, the shadow, perhaps, of — but I will not introduce politics here!

On the morning of the 17th (October) we landed at Brindisi. As we were to remain until noon I went ashore to view the few unimportant remains of ancient Brundusium, and wandered along the ramparts to the railway station. This structure, as well as the modern city itself, is not what one would naturally expect from the ostentatious title the latter assumed at the opening of the Suez Canal : the "entrepot for the commerce of the world."

The overland mail is transferred to the steamer immediately after the arrival of the mail train, and the passengers — those going to and those returning from India — make the change from the cars to the steamer or vice versa with equal celerity, seeming in no way disposed to rest or refresh, themselves in the only hotel in the place.

Both hotel and railway station were deserted the morning I was there ; and not a soul was to be seen except the telegraph operator and a station porter. The flat coast with its vegetable gardens, plantations of reeds, and scattered date-palms, is very uninteresting. An old cathedra] with a stately dome south of the city is the only object worth transferring to the sketch-book.

The English general whom, with his family and retinue, we were to have taken on board, did not make his appearance — his luggage having failed to arrive with him on the train — so we set sail again at noon without him. The following morning we steamed past the Ionian Islands; with pleasure I hailed the sight of stately Oephalonia, and greeted proud Monte Nero, on whose snow clad height I once spent a memorable day in the shadow of a majestic Finns Ccplialonica — a noble evergreen found only on this island. Farther on we passed romantic Zante — " Fior di Levanfce"

— sailing so close to its southern shore that we could plainly see the long rows of vaulted grottoes and eaves in the red marble cliffs. In the afternoon Epirus appeared on our left, and on our right the solitary island of Stamphania. Late in the evening we passed battle-stained Navarino; no less attractive and picturesque was the view of Candia, whose southern coast we skirted on the 19th.