Sights and sensations in France, Germany, and Switzerland; or, Experiences of an American journalist in Europe ...

Front matter

<0 vV

^0^,

X o.

Preface

me to add that two of the sketches have already appeared in magazine form — that on Hombourg (under the title of "Eien Ne Va Plus "), in the Galaxy^ and that on the Mont Oenis Tunnel, in the London Fortniglitly Revieio ; the last named — a memorial of adventure in Savoy — has been republished recently by several French and Italian journals.

But enough — perhaps more than enoughhas been said by way of introduction^ and it only remains to commit the book to the indulgence of the reader^

William A. Buffum.

New York, May 19th, 1869.

Chapter I. The Bubbles Op Champagne

A Week in the Champagne District. — How Champagne Wine is made and prepared for Market. — Cost of a Bottle of Champagne. — Invoice Prices. — Varieties of Wine. — The Champagne Kings. — The Widow Chcquot. — The Wine Cellars. — The Vintage. — Romance and Reality. — The pretty Champenoises. — Practical Information. — The Cathedral of Reims. — Equal and Exact Justice Page 19

Chapter II. Trente Et Quarante At Hombourg

The Baths of Hombourg. — Hombourg and its Surroundings. — The Inducement to Visitors. — The great Gaming-hell of Europe. — The Kursaal. — The Game of "Roulette." — My early Experiences. — "Systems," and an Exposure of their Fallacy. — The Scene at the Tables. — The Rouge-et-noir. — Large Winnings. — The Countess Kisselef. — Tricks of Sharpers. — Profits of the Games 44

Chapter III. A Tramp In The Bernese Oberland

From Zurich to Altorf. — The Falls of the Rhine. — Zurich and its Surroundings. — Vagabonds. — My Companion.— Horgen. — Outfit and Travelling-dress.— Knapsacks and Gibicieres.—The Hill above Horgen. — An unwarrantable Intrusion. — The *' Falken" at Zug. — Gretchen and her Sympathy. — Arth. — Guides and Commissionnaires. — The Ascent of theRigi.— Dismal Weather. — TheKlosterli.

XIV CONTENTS.

— The Rigi StafFel. — '* View" from our Windows. — The Summit of the Rigi, and the View from there. — DoAvn toWeggis. — Lucerne. — The Lake of Lucerne. — Fluellen. — Altorf. — From Altorf to Meiringen. — Our pedestrian Excursion fairly commenced. — Unpropitious Circumstances. — Beggars in Switzerland. — The Devil's Bridge. — Realp. — The Road to the Furca. — View from the mountain Summit. — Necessary Precautions. — The Glacier du Rhone. — A pedestrian Wed ding- tour. — The Grimsel. — The Valley of the Aare. — The Falls of Handeck. — From Meiringen to Interlaken. — A Difference of Opinion, and its Results. — Warer and I separate. — A magnificent View. — The Glacier of Rosenlaui. — The Alpenhorn. — Warer and I meet again. — Grindelwald. — Ascent of the Glacier. — An unpleasant Predicament. — The i^valanches. — The Jungfrau. — How to "share" a Mule. — Lauterbrunnen. — Termination of our Trip. — My Companion Warer Page 75

Chapter IV. In " Mont Cenis" Tunnel — Through The Heart Of The Alps

The great engineering Work of the Century. — A Journey into the " Bowels of the Earth." — San Michel. — The Village of Fourneaux, and its People. — Its beautiful Surroundings.— History of the Enterprise. — Anticipated Difficulties and Obstacles. — Map of the Tunnel and its Vicinity. — The motive Power. — Air pressed into the Service. — The Operations commenced. — My Visit to the Tunnel. — Preparations for entering. — In the "Bowels of the Earth." — Darkness visible. — Breathing becomes difficult. — A Halt and Rest. — Among the Workmen. — An unpleasant Predicament. — The Blast. — The "Advanced Gallery." — The Construction and Action of the perforating Machines. — The Work performed by them. — First Sight of the "Aflfusto." — Immense Wear and Tear of Material. — Accidents. — Termination and Success of the Enterprise 116

Chapter V. The Quartier Latin

My Residence and Mode of Life. — Occupations of Women in Paris. — Ladies taking the Degrees of " Bachelor " of Arts and Letters. — A Lady attempting to obtain a medical Diploma. — Quiet Life of my Concierge. — My Neighbor, little Aglae, the Flower-maker.... . 144

CONTENTS. XV

Chapter VI. What The Parisians Eat

Snail-eating.— History and Habits of the Snail.— Cost of living in Paris. — Cheap Restaurants. — Horse-eating. — Bill of Fare of a HorsQ-dinner.— Tables d'hote.— First-class Restaurants.— Cremeries. — " Etablissements de Bouillon." — How the Parisian Poor furnish their Tables...,, Page 152

Chapter VII. The Hospitals Of Paris

Hospital Lariboisiere.— The Physician's Visit.— The surgical Wards. —The Operating-room.— Medical Students.— Chassaignac's Operations with the "Ecraseur" ' 168

Chapter VIII. The Closerie De Lilas

Students and Etudiantes. — " Grisettes " of the Past and Present. — The Society at the "Closerie." — The male and female Dancers. — Remarkable Terpsichorean Gymnastics. — The Cancan. — Order and Propriety 181

Chapter IX

. THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL OF PARIS.

How Foundlings are taken in and done for. — Visit to the Hospital. — The new-born Babies. — The Infirmaries. — How the Foundlings are cared for. — How they become Foundlings. — Their Mothers. — A grave moral and social Question. — Legitimate and illegitimate Births in Paris 187

Chapter X. A Chamber Of Horrors

The dissecting-rooms at Clamart. — The "Salle de Reception." — The "Subjects." — Food for Meditation 195

XVI CONTEI^TS.

Chapter XI. The "specialite De Pumpkin Pie."

A Mystery to the uninitiated. — "Thin Magpie" an American Dish Page 200

Chapter XII. What And How Much The Parisians Drink

Drunkenness. — Wine - drinking. — ' ' The Octroi " Duty. —Extensive Establishments. —Parisian Cafes.— American Drinks.— Marchands de Vin. — Absinthe-drinking. — " A little Absinthe, just to give an Appetite."— Composition of Absinthe, and its fearful Effects. 204

Chapter XIII. A Flying Trip In The Country

Orleans and "the Maid." — Chambord. — Blois. — Amboise, — Plessis les Tours. — A curious Village. — Houses cut in the solid Rock. — Chinon. — Angers. — The Castle of Bluebeard. — Down the Loire. —Brittany 216

"down among the dead men."

The Catacombs of Paris. — A Visit to them. — Dismal Places. — Miles of Skulls and Bones. — The Abode of the Dead. — An agreeable Situation. — Accidents , Page 248

Chapter XVIII. The Chiffonniers Of Paris

Their Mode of Life, and what they find. — The " Hasard de la Fourchette." — Dilapidated Lorettes. — Objects found in the Streets and public Carriages, — Honesty of the Chiffonniers. — An independent Rag-picker. — The Ravageurs 261

Chapter XIX. Visit To The Chapel Op The Tuileries

The Imperial Chapel. — The Emperor and Empress at their Devotions. — The Emperor.^ — The Empress 272

Chapter XX. The Cemetery Of Pere La Chaise

A real "City of the Dead."— The Jewish Inclosure. — Tomb of Rachel. — Defacing Monuments. — Abelard and Heloise. — The Grave of Marshal Ney. — The Artist's Corner. — Vandael, theElower-painter. — Singular Inscriptions. — The common Graves. — How the Dead are buried, and what it costs. — The Aristocracy and Democracy of Death. — "Poor little Hunchback." — Respect for the Dead. — The "Jour des Morts." — Mortuary Statistics of Paris 279

CHAPTER XXL

RELIGIOUS FREEDOM IN FRANCE.

The Catholic, Protestant, and Jewish Establishments. — The Parisian Catholic Churches.— The "Eglise des Petits Peres."— The Statue of St. Peter.— The "Ex Votos."— The Tableau of "Indulgences" 297 xviii

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXII. Eouen And Its Romantic Reminiscences

First Impressions. — Tlie Rouen of To-day. — The Cathedral of Notre Dame. — St. Christopher and his History, — St. Ouen. — A curious Book. — William the Conqueror. — "His Mark." — The Heart of Richard Coeur de Lion. — The Spot where Joan of Arc was burnt Page 303

AN AMEEICAN JOUEISTALIST IN EUKOPE.