Front matter
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Preface
It was not my purpose to publish a book of travels, until some weeks after returning from abroad, nor does this volume come forth " in response to the urgent request of a host of friends." But a small per cent, of the matter now presented appearing in the Raleigh Advocate in the form of Foreign Correspondence, some of which was reprinted by several papers of the State, and finding more than enough material on hand to fill many hundred pages, it has been condensed in the form now offered.
No other could preach my sermon, nor record my observations. Some things here presented have been noticed before ; but few of them in any one book, many of them in no other book.
The world is moving, and this book contains the impressions made upon an American and a Southerner in 1889.
Greensboro, N. C, Sept. 25th.
CHAPTER I. Pleasant Garden to New York ,.,.-, '7
Leaving home. — Last familiar face. — Greensboro. — Washington City. — New York.— Messrs. Brown Bros. — A difficulty. — Brooklyn Bridge. — Cooper Institute. — Stock Exchange. — XL S. Treasury Building. — Sambo in New York. — Polite people done smoking on the streets. — A narrow escape. — Confidence men,
CHAPTER II. Crossing the Sea 25
New Experince. — Looking for Security. — How we got Adrift. — In a storm. — La Gascogne. — Sea Birds. — The Sea the Sea. — The Passengers. — How Sketching is Done.
CHAPTER III. France 31
Paris. — Sunday Election-day, — How the French Do. — La Bastile. — Hotel de Ville. — Palaise Royal. — Literary Supplies. — They Read — Churches. — Notre Dame. St. Sulpice. — Holy Sepulchre. — The Louvre. — Paintings. — Statuary. — Antiquities. — Place du Carrousal. — Elysees Champs. — Poilpot's Panorama. — Siege of Paris in Franco-Prussian War. — Arc d'Etoile. — Hospital des Invalides. — Tomb of Napoleon. — Pere la Chaise. — Jardin des Plants. — The Markets. — Draught Horses. — Street Cars. — Missionary Work in Paris.
CHAPTER IV. Paris to Turin 40
Shambles of Paris, and where their supplies come from. — The Sapped system.— La Seine. — Ye Banks and Braes. — An Unknown tongue. — Lac Bourget. — How model roads are made. — A lonely Sentinel. — Do the children pay tax or Strangers ? — Custom-house officials. — Continental Cars, How equipped and managed.
CHAPTER V. Pisa, Florence 45
Pisa, new and old.— Duomo- Galileo's Lamp.— Baptistery.— Campo Santo.— Leaning Tower.— The river Arno— Cultivation of the Land.— White Heifers for Teams.
Florence.— Donkies for Carriage-horses.— Dogs muzzled. Ladies and Cigars— News-stands— Papacy becoming Effete in Italy.— Catholic worship like bees swarming. — The Duomo.— Santa Croce.— Necropolis of Genius.— Art Galleries.— Dr. Buckley.— Pitti Palace. — Lazzaroni.— Some moralizing on Capital, Labor, &c.
CHAPTER VI. Rome 54
St. Peters.— The Vatican.— Sistine Chapel.— Michael Angelo.— Raphael.— Sons of Rome.— Tasso's Tomb.— Colosseum.— The Forum, and the Iconoclast.— Triumphal Arches.— The Churches.— Relics of Saints.— Prison of Paul and Peter,— Scala Sancta— School of the Catholic Prophets— Outside Pressure Modifying the Church.— Papal Rome and Zeit Geist.— Responsibility of the Church of Rome and how met.— Bishop Wilson.— The Average Italian.
CHAPTER VII. Naples 63
Situation.— Beggars.— Merchants.— Fed by Travelers.— High Land Rent.— National Museum.— Pompeii, Herculaneum and Vesuvius.- John Gilpin Ride through Torre Annunziata.— Guide Holding Horse's tail.— Imminent Peril, Red-hot Boulders flying down the Mountain.— Courage Fails.— A desperate Venture.— Beef-steak and Maccaroni, a Horse-trade.— Brindisi. or Stag's Horns.— Terminus of the Appian-Way.
CHAPTER VIII. Egypt 74
Alexandria.— Up the Nile.— The Soil.— Mud-towns.— How they Travel. — City Life, Stores, Dress. — How the People are Watered. — Sakyah and Shadoof.— Topography of Nile Valley. — Fertility, Population, Stock.
Cairo. — Tne Citadel. — Mosque of Mahomet Ali. — Mahometan Worship.— How Christians do when visiting a Mosque.— Joseph's Well.—Saut du Mameluke.— Cheops.— A visit to the Top and Interior.— Caught in the Net of the Arabs.
CHAPTER IX. Farther Up the Nile 83
Haste Makes Waste, Travelling.— Nice Companions.— Copts. — Floating Stations. — What Arabs Eat.— A "Blind Man Eloquent."— A Blind Boy More Eloquent. — Products of the Country. — Thebes. — Tombs of the Kings— Necropolis — Ramesiuuu — Memnonium. Monstrous Monoliths.— Statue of Rameses the Great. — Medinet Habou. — Theodosius, Destroyer of Heathenism and Art.— Luqsor.— Oldest Temple on Earth and Tallest Obelisk.— 3064 B. C— Egyptians of Old Like Moderns.
CHAPTER X. Down the Nile to Cairo 90
Of the River, Boats, Cargo, Birds, Thermometer.- — On, where Moses was Educated. — Trying to Escape Donkey-boys. — Flight.- — Pursuit. — Capture. — Death, Burial without a Coffin. — Another Funeral Procession. Haggar Ali, Ten Widows. — A Juggler. — Boulac Museum.--.Sethi I, whose Daughter found Moses, Rameses, Pharoah of the Oppression. "In the Resurrection morning we shall rise !"
CHAPTER XI. Suez Canal 100
Lingering glance along Moses' track, Joseph. — Suez Canal. — Ismailla Simoon. — On foot in the Desert-Indignation meeting.- — Dredges.- — Port Said. — Plow we didn't bulldose the S. S. Co. — A live town, Frank and Arab. — Grown Women at five. — Gambling Hells. — How a love of Backsheesh spoiled one Arab's Mouth. ' Highway of the Nations. — Missions.
CHAPTER XII. Odds and Ends 105
Footmen.— Canals Made Without a Spade.— Bazaar Day. —Dervishes.— Arab Gratitude.— Oppression. — Cabbaging in American.— In Diplomatic Circles. — How Donkey Boys "Get There."
CHAPTER XIII. The Oldest Seaport Ill
Simon the Tanner's House.— -Expectation on Tiptoe.- — Apprehensions. — Rest.
CHAPTER XIV. From Joppa to Jerusalem 116
David's Fete miscarries.— Jerusalem. — Excursion to Jericho, Dead Sea and Jordan.— Bethlehem, House of Bread.— Mt. Calvary, the two Theories. — Dr. Merrill's Statement.— Church of the Holy Sepulchre.— Having the Form of Godliness, but denying the Power.— Episcopalians. — Missions.
CHAPTER XV. How One Travels in Palestine 133
Dragoman, Donkey Boy, Routes. — Last look in David's City.- -Climate.— Soil.— Political situation.
CHAPTER XVI. Dead Sea, Marsara, Hebron 141
From Jerasalem down to Jericho, Elisha's Rendezvous, Herod the Great's Headquarters. — Elisha's Fountain, Gilgal. — As Bedawins Do. — Jordan. — Dead Sea.— Climatic Extremes. — Flora. — St. Saba, Miraculous Palm Tree, Lazy Priests. — A Room full of Skulls.
Jerusalem to Hebron, Solomon's Pools, Hebron's Fountains, Abraham's Grave. — Jacob's Funeral. — Abraham's Oak.
CHAPTER X\ r II.
In and About Jerusalem 148
Holy Sepulchre again. — Mt. Zion. — The Upper Room. — House of Caiaphas.— Jews' Wailing Place. — Character of the Wall there— Cyclopean. — What their Wailing is. — Jewish Sabbath.
Chapter XVIII
Mt. Moriah. Gethsemane 165
Temple Area, How made, Mosque of Omar.- Sakhra or Foundation Stone, Center of the World, Mohammed's marvelous flight to Heaven. — Other Moslem Legends, —How they learn Music — En Rogel, King's Garden, Virgin's Fountain. — Gethsemane. — Grotto of the Agony. — Under the City of Jerusalem.— Model of Solomon's Temple. — Mt. Olivet.
CHAPTER XIX. North op Jerusalem 174
Robber's Glen.— Shiloh.— Samuel, and the Dedication of Children to God.- Jacob's Well.— Joseph's Tomb. — Place for Reflection.— Ebal, Gerizim, Sychar.— Last of the Samaritans. - Old Pentateuchs.— Missions.— Other evidences of Prosperity.— A Typical Mill. — Samaria, a Wasted Capitol.— Displays of Mohammedan Bigotry.— Jenin, Worse Demonstrations.-- Conspiracy, Narrow Escape.— The " Little Foxes." — Esdraelon, the World's Oldest Battle-field.— Jezreel, Home of Jezebel, Jehu and Gideon.— Gideon's Fountain.— Shunem, Nain, Endor.
•
Chapter XX
Mt. Tabor, Sea of Galilee, Nazareth 183
Mt. Tabor.— The Transfiguration.— Through a Paradise to Tiberias.— Backsheesh.— A Ride on the Sea to Capernaum. — Fishing.— Bathing in the Sea.— Natural Hot Baths.— Mount of Beatitudes.-— Cana.-— Nazareth.— - Missions.— A Walk about Jesus' Birth-place.
CHAPTER XXI. From Nazareth to Beirut 190
Nazareth to Mt. Carmel.— Market women.— Mr. M. is sick and takes a steamer.— Of Haifa, — A Frantic Scene.— Acre, city of Blood. — Tax on Salad.— The old Roman Road.— Historic Lands, Tyre, Sarepta, Ornithopolis, Sidon. — History repeats itself. — A Turkish Hotel. — How an Arab makes the Amende honorable.— Missions.— Public Highway Forts.— Silk Manufacture.
CHAPTER XXII. Beirut 198
All is well that ends well.— En Harak Said.— (May you have a rich day) — Mr. M. sick still.— Beirut.— Dog River.- Sugar and Silk. — Household foes.
Missionary Matters.— Colleges, Schools, Churches, Hospitals, Printing Presses, &c, Statistics.
CHAPTER XXIII. The Land, The People, The Man..... 216
The Call of Abraham the Beginning of God's Purpose to Develop the Race. National Peculiarities of- the Hebrews : 1. They have Faith. 2. Domestic Affection. 3. Sentimental, the " Holy Land." 4. Conservative, old Pentateuch, old Customs,. Samaritans. 5. The Hebrew impressed his Religion on others. Examples. — In debt to the Jew.— Smallest and Greatest. Final Product. — Strength made perfect in Weakness.
CHAPTER XXIV. Among the Grecian Isles 225
Beirut to Cyprus, Copper Island.— General Cesnola. — Lazarus' Grave.— Venus' Birthplace. — How they employ Criminals.— Some Criminals not apprehended.— Rhodes. — Cos, Birthplace of Hippocrates and Apelles. — Halicarnassus, where was one of the " Seven "Wonders." — Leros.— Patmos.— Chios.
CHAPTER XXV. Smyrna and Ephesus 232
Turkish Custom-house Officers.— A Pretty City.— Markets and Bazaars. —A Heterogeneous Mass.— Protestantism Missions.— Panorama from Mt. Pagus. — Home of the Muses.
Ephesus. — Gates, Vice Versa.— Gymnasiums, Agorae. — Theaters.— Stadium.— Baptismal Font of St. Paul's time or soon afterwards.— "Diana of the Ephesian's " Temple:— Scene of Paul's Labors.
CHAPTER XXVI. From Asia to Greece .244
Minerva Suniuni. — Piraeus. Athens. — First Impressions, Among Ruins, Prison of Socrates. Acropolis, Theseum, Mars Hill. Vandalism. — Center of the World. — Enchanted Ground, Dishonored Shrine. — King of Greece. — Pedagogues still Peripatetic.
CHAPTER XXVII. Amongst Savants 252
Academy of Plato. — Where Cereals were first planted, and Olive trees. — Soil and Products. — Eleusis. — Cutting Greece in two. — Vessels going by Land. — Corinth. — Acro-Corinthus. — Pirene, where Pegasus drank. — We view the Whole Land. — A Solemn Moment. — The American School at Athens. — Mt. Lycabettus. — Athens Gave, Let her Receive again.
Chapter XXVIII
Through the Dardanelles, Hellespont and Sea of Marmora to Constantinople 260
On Stormy Waters. — Bishop Fowler.— The Dead line of
Nations, Chessboard of Ancient Warriors. — Leander
and Hero's Homes. — x\pproach to the Sublime Porte.
• — Its Geography. —Volume of Business. — Ironclads.
CHAPTER XXIX. In and About Stamboul 266
Meeting old acquaintances. — Genoese Tower. — Seraglio Grounds. — Sublime Porte. — St. Sophia. — Hippodrome. — Janizaries.— Reservoir of 1001 Columns. —
Seraskierat. — Pigeon Mosque. — Sultan's Mosque. — Selamlik or Yildik (Star.) — Bible House. — Mohammetan Reverence for God.
In Asia-Minor Again. — Of their Tickets, Boats, and caring for the Women. — City of the Dead. — Retaining identity of the Dead, a Horse's Tomb. — English Cemetery, Heroes of the Crimean War. — Boulgourloo, Splendid Panorama. — Camels going to Mecca, Intense Excitement, Parading Cavalry. — An Accident. — Frightened by Turks. — Ramazan, Fast or Lent of the Moslems.
CHAPTER XXX. Constantinople and the Turks 275
Through the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. — Mail Service and Tickets. — American College at Bebek. — Mehmet II. Garrison of Mehmet II. A Mighty monarch Receives a Grand Ovation. S^amboul at her best. — The whole Creation Groaneth and Travaileth together in pain until now. — Turkish ways, About Wives, Salutations, Neplus ultra, to get there. — Extreme Modesty, Dress,. — As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined, Sample of Cleanliness. — Dogs, Diplomatic Dogs. — Satan. — Mohamed's divisions of the World. — Kitablees. — Dr. Menzie's estimate. — First Standing Army. — Dr. Hamilton's Estimate. — Missions.
CHAPTER XXXI. Through Turkey, Roumelia, Bulgaria, Servia
Hungary and Austria 286
Caught in a Turkish Trap. — Cutting the Gordian Knot. — How they Start a Train. — Customs Officers. — Turkish Landscape. — National Insignia. — New Modes of Applying Water-power. — More Customs Officers, a New Kind. — Belgrade and More Officers. — Semlin and Still More. — Great Prairies.
Chapter XXXII
Antiquity.— Its Beauty. The Ring-Strasse with its Voluptuousness.— -Art Galleries, Confessional, Indulgences, Accursed Trio. — Some Fine Churches. —
All go to church in the morning. Sunday Afternoon is Holiday .—The "Prater, Beer gartens. — Training Young Soldiers. — Some ridiculous customs. — The Women Hew the Wood, Cultivate the Land and Pay the Tax. — Dogs used for Horses. — Shoenbrun.— Headquarters of Surgery. — Royal Condescension. — Religious Phase. — Missions.
CHAPTER XXXIII. From Vienna to London 306
Advantages of slow travelling. — Fairyland and Farm land. — Russia's Way. — Wallialla. — Nuremburg. - - Wurtzburg, Legend of the Minnesinger. — Frankfort-on-the-Main, Ariadne, Lost in town, Kaiser-saal, &c. — Heidelberg, Molkencur, Castle, University, &c, — Worms, Luther Plate. — The Grandest Sight. — German Soldiers to the manner born. — Maintz. — The Rhine. — Bonn. — Cologne, finest Cathedral. Finest Music, German Catholic method. — Aix-la-chapelle. — Spa. Oldest watering place. — Belgium, Waterloo.
CHAPTER XXXIV In London 321
London. — A home-like feeling. — The "Bank." — 'Busses. — Travel on the Great Thoroughfares. — Elevated and Underground Rail Roads. — 5,000,000 of People, How Placed. — " What shall we do with our Cities ?" — Humanitariansf — Sights to be Seen. — May Meetings. — The English in Meeting. — The English in History, Poetry, Literature, Government and Religion. — Churchmen and Dissenters. — Churchmen and the Papacy. — Victoria's policy. — The Wesleyan's. City Road Chapel, Wesley's. House and Furniture. — His Tomb amongst honored Co-laborers. — Bunhill Fields, Mrs. Wesley's Epitaph.
CHAPTER XXXV. From London Home 334
Noted Preachers of London. — Noted Churches. — The Tower. — Other Objects. — Waverly Route to Melrose. The Abbey, Abbotsford, Scott — Edinburgh. — Glasgow. — Aboard once more.
Chapter I. Pleasant Garden To New York
Leaving home — Last familiar face. — Greensboro. — "\Vash j ington City. — New York.- -Messrs. Brown Bros. — A difficulty. — Brooklyn Bridge. — Cooper Institute. — Stock Exchange. — U. S. Treasury Building. — Sambo in New York. — Polite people done smoking on the streets. — A narrow escape. — Confidence men.
HAVING placed my family at Pleasant Garden with friends of other years to board, where the children can go to school, to one of the best teacher* in North Carolina, Prof. Fentress,, who graduated at Trinity College in 1887, I went over to Trinity to see Professors Armstrong andi Price, who had spent some years abroad, for such kindly suggestions and advice as they might make, and much. to my delight and profit. President Crowell placed a very valuable book in my hands that will serve me in making observations on the conditions of things in Europe.
I spent the night with the family of the Rev. C. M. Pepper, who gave me my start in the ministry, , but who, now superannuated, is keeping a firstclass boarding house near the College.
I had the good fortune to meet the Rev. Rufus King, who had been to Palestine, and who gave me several valuable hints. Bishop Granbury also very kindly gave me a letter commending me to the confidence of church people wherever I might go, with the assurance that I should have his prayers in my behalf, all of which I most cordially appreciate, with the desire that all my brethren in the N. C. Conference will also remember me at a throne of grace. Dr. Young wrote me a few days ago, to go first to Egypt and Palestine, as the " mercury would soon be too high for comfort there." I never did like mercury and am purposing to follow his advice.
Farewells said at home, with a small valise as my only traveling companion, I turned my face toward the North. I noticed in passing through Greensboro a great deal of work going on putting in sewerage pipes, they have just put in waterworks, and built a new railroad to Madison, and will soon have one of the finest bank buildings in the State. Her good people are worthy, and we rejoice in her prosperity.
The last familiar faces I saw were those of the gifted Ityrd and his young wife, who got off the train as I got on.
By way of Richmond you reach Washington at 11 A. M., leaving Greensboro at 8:40 P. M. Our engine killed a very fine cow just before reaching Washington — we stopped, and all went back to see her, except the ladies and children.
In Washington I called first at the State Department for my passport, which now costs only $1.00, $5.00 being the price until recently ; after wflfch, it being Wednesday, and Mr. Cleveland's . day for receiving visitors, I palled at' the White House with about one hundred others, to be introduced to the President. It is an informal affair; the President stands in a doorway, leading out of the East room, and visitors come up to him, say "howdye do, Mr. President?" and pass out. It is simple and does a little good and no harm.
I then went down to the Capitol hoping to get letters of introduction to representative Americans and gentlemen abroad from our Senators; but calling of ayes and nays prevented my seeing Senator Vance, while very important business in N. C. craved the presence of Senator Ransom. I admire the public buildings of Washington enough to write a whole letter about them, but many of my readers have already seen them, and others have written them up in better style than I am able to do.
In all the travel I hope to make, I do not expect to see any one building more magnificent than the Capitol of the United States, nor any city more beautiful than Washington, with its fine buildings and parks. Being detained in the White House until 2 P. M., I had to wait till four, but the loss of time was more than compensated by the acquaintance of a Mr. Miller, of
New York, son of a Presbyterian clergyman. He says in their church they have the Y. P. C. E. S., i. e. the Young People's Christian Ende^pr Society, and that it works admirably. It is the same thing about which I wrote an article in November. I formed one of the same at Mt. Tabor on the Granville circuit, with twenty-four members. It gives each something to do. We are all very fast learning the fact that, to take stock in anything or expend labor, prayer or thought to further a cause, identifies us with that enterprise as we cannot otherwise be. May be I shall try to inaugurate such a work in our Conference when I return.
I reached Jersey City at 11:35 P. M., Wednesday, and New York next morning at nine o'clock. I have now been here two days. I stopped at the International Hotel, Park Row, opposite the Post office first, but' as our Steamer leaves to-morrow morning at six, I came down to the Palace Hotel, only- one square from the pier.
My first care was to put my cash into the hands of Messrs. Brown Bros., whose letters of credit are honored all over the world where there is a Bank. But they required that I be identified ; but Dr. Deems was the only man who knew me in the; city. I purposed calling on him for letters of introduction, advice, etc., etc. I could not find him. But sometimes when things can't be done one way they can another, so I succeeded by the other. (Some of my readers will understand what that other way is.)
The next thing was to determine on which Steamer to go, as I wished to make the Mediterranean as early as possible. The Cunard and Inman both send vessels to-morrow to Liverpool, also the Red Star Line to Antwerp. But I chose the Gascogne of the French Line to Havre. This is the largest and finest boat in the harbor, capacity seven thousand tons. I chose this also because I thought I might pick up a little French on the way. I presume I need not dwell on this city much, everything is done on a magnificent scale. Many of the buildings are from six to ten stories high, and high pitched rooms at that. A. T. Stewart's old property occupies a whole square, and is built of stone, as are hundreds of others. The Brooklyn Bridge is one and one-fourth miles between gates, about eighty feet wide, and ninety feet high, and would hold altogether fifty thousand people. The3 r have four lines of elevated steam railways, capable of carrying two hundred passengers at a trip ; they go about every sixty or seventy seconds during the morning, and sometimes tine cars are full in the morning and late in the afternoon. They stop every few blocks to take passengers on and off.
I visited the Cooper Institute. This is a magnificent brown stone building, opposite the Bible House, Eighth Street and Bowery. Here is a free reading-room, one hundred feet wide and two hundred long — I am guessing — with a dozen copies each of scores of papers, and thousands of volumes of books ; tables with chairs, and desks for standing, are plentifully provided for the comfort of the thousands who come here yearly and read and obtain the knowledge they are too poor to buy elsewhere. About one hundred and fifty were in when I called. Free lectures are given also. Paintings and statuary are on free exhibition. I felt a thrill of admiration for the beneficent founder when I departed. I saw the statue of the Father of his country, in Wall Street at the treasury building, where he took the oath of office as the first President of the United States. I visited the Stock Exchange, where men are made paupers and millionaires by telegraph. And although I have attended many scores of revivals of religion, I have never witnessed such antics as I saw cut there. Men yell and scream much, I imagine, as Indians celebrate a victory won ; but others have written up all this.
I noticed a very few colored people in New York, not over a dozen or twenty perhaps. Too cold or too something for Sambo up here. I
Another thing, I have seen less smoking on Broadway than one would in a town of a thousand inhabitants, perhaps, in North Carolina. I have seen less than a dozen boys with cigarettes — this I thought remarkable and very creditable. The habit may be to smoke at home, I don't know, only I have not seen it to any extent, hardly.
I must not neglect to relate a narrow escape I had in New York. It may serve a good purpose to some young reader expecting to visit the Metropolis. The morning I arrived, a familiar looking chap accosted me with, " Hello, Groome, you here!" "Yes," I replied. He endeavored to draw me into conversation, but being in a hurry I escaped him, but to be encountered a few moments later by a more successful accomplice. The first had learned my home, name, etc. The second man said : "I am from Greensboro, and felt as if I
must speak to you, my name is ," giving
the name of one of the first families in North Carolina, "and we are going to put up a cotton factory in Greensboro, I am here to buy the machinery, etc., for it. Let me give you my card." He being so well related, and from Greensboro, and putting up a factory, I hated to appear so disinterested as to refuse his card and circulars. " They are just here," he said, leading me across Broadway and on a square, chatting very pleasantly. I began to feel, this man is presuming very much, to thus waste my time, and the thought occured to me, he is a " sharper," but I followed him two squares, and he stopped at a very nice looking, second class office : " Walk in Mr. Groome." I paused at the door, he passed in, and said to a gentleman writing at a table and in front of a screen : Is the printing clone ?" " No," replied the scribe, " sit down and I'll send over for it." " Come in, Mr. Groome, it will be done in a moment, and we will go." " No, thanks, I'll stand here," I said. He then came out and insisted that I come in, wished to know if I were in a hurry, etc., etc. I looked across the street, and a gentleman shook his head violently and gesticulated his warnings. I had already started away and was accosted twice more in the same manner before I left the city, and each time on Broadway.
These fellows live on Broadway, and go in pairs, one learns the name, place, etc., reports to the other and thus catch up unwary visitors. They are called " Confidence men." Once inside, the door closed, and you may be robbed if not murdered.*
I am now aboard and will start in a few minutes.
" The sails are spread and fair the light wind blows, As glad to waft him from his native home."
* Since reaching home, two North Carolinians have told rne of toeing" swindled, in the dens of " Confidence men " in New York.
CHAPTER -II.
CROSSING THE SEA
New Experience. — Looking for Security. — How we got Adrift. — In a Storm. — La Grascogne. — Sea Birds. — The Sea the Sea. — The Passengers.— How Sketching is Done. — Havre.
BEFORE the gangway was pulled ashore, and the ship cut from her mooring, I penned a few lines, in the early morning light, to loved ones at home, and felt a sensation of fear and peril, new to me and strange, possibly common to those about to cross the ocean for the first time. What lies before me on this waste of water? And if I return not, what of the little group that I left weeping while ago? What right had I to leave any way? Had not one Jonas tried the same with disastrous results? And was he not an example to men of like habits ? Are there any other preachers here aboard who, like myself, are going forth to widen and deepen their knowledge of men and things, that they may bring to the church's service better equipment of both body and mind, and who may be a sort of guarantee to me, that God's good providence will guide us safely over? No, not one can be found on the roll, save a Hebrew Rabbi.
About 6 o'clock, on Saturday morning, a small steam ferry boat, that had been fastened to ours, began to move her out towards the channel of the river and turn her prow towards the ocean. So small was the motion that only by sighting distant objects in a line with the opposite end of the vessel could one see her move, but when she at last got into position, and turned her mighty engines loose, her screw churned the sea behind into a foaming whirlpool.
This is the 6th day we have been out, the first was bright and we made good speed. The machinery got out of order the second, and we lost about four hours; only one passenger sick the first day, but the second was windy and the usual tributes were paid to Neptune. Sunday night blew a gale. Monday was stormy all day, everybody was sick, and I was uneasy. We had a musical crowd, but no singing. Monday nearly all abed, the waves beat over the ship and poured down the openings below. There were many aboard who had crossed the ocean, often ; they would laugh, but not sing. It may be weakness, but to see the sea rising above your ship like mountains and sweeping down as if anxious to engulf her, to see her rise momentarily as if by magic to escape certain death, far above, but to be plunged again into the deep, the sea ever and anon breaking over, sweeping all movable things from the deck alarms me for the time. You know that death would not have to go far from his course to take you. I was a little more fervent, though no more sincere in my devotions. I renewed my pledges of service, etc., to greater length, than at the usual hour of prayer. Tuesday morning the storm was gone and we have since had fine weather.
Our ship, La Gascogne, is a gallant barque, four masts, and iron from mast to keel. Her entire length is 540 feet by 36 feet wide, capable of carrying 1,500 passengers, though there are less than two hundred on board. She was built in 1886. She is a fast boat, has crossed from New York to Havre in seven days, nearly four thousand miles. We expect to be out eight clays this time. She is driven by three massive engines, aggregrating nine thousand horse power, she burns one hundred and sixty tons of coal per day, in thirty-six furnaces. First class passage on the other Steamers ranges from $50 to $100 ; second class $25 to $45. On La Gascagne it is for first class, $100 to $125; second from $50 to $60. The cause I think is owing to the large number of extra servants and cooks engaged on the Gascogne — they number 220 in all — and the fact that she monopolizes the travel from New York to Havre.
The sea birds have attended us all the way across. Sometimes they follow the ship all day without stopping to rest ; sometimes they light on the water for a short while and rise to pursue us again. What power of endurance must be locked up in the tiny muscles of their tireless wings. I have
" Marked the seabird wildly wheeling through the skies," and considered that,
" God attends him, God defends him when he cries,"
and felt secure.
You never get tired looking at the sea, it is so suggestive, as well as so wonderful. The universal receptacle of the washings of all continents, with their city sewerages, and yet of the great health giving powers of the world ; all the rivers run into it, yet it is not full. Its floor may be covered with the corpses of those who have assayed to traverse its plains, yet it seems at times harmless, and so inoffensive. You may become familiar with a thousand of its secrets, yet ten thousand are concealed. Verily they that go down to the sea in ships, in time of storm, "See His wonders in the mighty deep," where, as Byron says:
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