Under ten flags. An historical pilgrimage ...

Front matter

Qa,

UNDER TEN FLAGS.

AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE.

Preface

This book is not intended to be a learned and critical work. It is a book of travel — a narrative of what the modern traveler in the East sees and hears. The author does not hold himself responsible for the truth of all the statements made. He simply becomes responsible for the fact that tJie statements are made. He was compelled to exercise his own good judgment in. receiving the stories and traditions of an ignorant and fanatical people, and leaves the same somewhat pleasant task to the reader. Many authors feel called upon to eliminate from their books all that can not stand the crucial test of historic criticism severely applied. While this doubtless enhances the value of their works to students and critics, it destroys the charms of travel and takes away a large portion of the attractions which draw the traveler to those countries. He has in the main, however, shown how he views what he saw, and no one who reads the book carefully can fail to see when he believes or disbelieves what he has seen and heard. Trusting the reader may have some of the pleasure in reading that he has had in writing it, the book is without further preface placed in his hands.

The Author.

Index To Chapters

NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL.

Preparations — Bartholdi Statue — First Disaster — Our Captain — First Service — A Praying Lot — Change of Wind — Gambling — Etruria — Savannah — The Enghsh i

IN AND AROUND LIVERPOOL.

Signals at Sea — God's Signal Service — Minute Guns — Landing — Church in

Liverpool — Railways in England 7

A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND.

Liverpool to London — Bugsworth — Rancher — Dove's Hole Tunnel — Monsal Dale — Chatsworth — Cromford — Arkwright — The Castle — Derby — Leicester — Bedford— St. Albans— London 12

IN AND AROUND LONDON.

West London Tabernacle — Christian Commonwealth — London Statistics —

Parliament — Spurgeon — Westminster — St. Paul's 23

LONDON TO PARIS.

New Haven — More Liver Trouble — Dieppe — Rouen — William the Conqueror — Joan of Arc — Paris — Hotels — History of the City 35

PARIS THE BEAUTIFUL.

Place du Trone — Bastile — Place Vendome — Place de la Concord — Guillotine — Marat — Versailles — Notre Dame— Madeleine — Louvre— Napoleon's Tomb — Arch of Triumph 45

PARIS TO PISA.

Macon — Modane — Mt. Cenis — Turin — Marengo — -Genoa and Genoese — Statue of Columbus — Pisa — Leaning Tower — Cathedral — Lamp — Baptistery — Campo Saiito — ^Maria della Spina 5^

Viii. INDEX TO CHAPTERS.

FLORENCE THE GENTEEL.

Its Name — Climate — History — Culture — Piazza — Vecchio— Savonarola — Loggia — Pitti Palace — Bell Tower — Baptistery — Santa Croce — Immortal Dust — Boboli Gardens — Bribery 67

THE ETERNAL CITY.

On to Rome — Etruscans — Tiber — Breech-loaders and Pointer Dogs — Carnival — Pagan, Papal and Modern Cities — Capitoline Hill — -Tarpeian Rock — Forum — Cloaca — History of City — Via Sacra 80

ETERNAL CITY— CONTINUED.

Palatine — Romulus and Remus — Haruspex — Basilica — Feast— Arch of Titus- Arch of Constantine — Flavian Amphitheater — Conflicts 97

APPIAN WAY.

Roman Roads — Appius Claudius — Virginia — ^Tombs of the Scipios — Colom- ■ barium — Catacombs — Teachings of — Tomb of Cecilia Metella — Curiatii and Horatii — Cornelia's Jewels — Campagna Life iii

PAPAL ROME.

San Angelo — Bridge — St. Peter's — Architecture — Dimensions — Curiosities — Popes — St. Andrea — St. John of Lateran — San Pudentiana — Paul's Kinsfolk 128

ROME TO NAPLES

For Naples — Ceprano — Capua — Hannibal— Naples — Museum— Pompeiian

Curiosities — Statues— Sculpture 143

IN AND AROUND NAPLES.

Vesuvius— Music — Up the Mountain — "The Beautiful" Tirees — Pompeii —

Water Puteoli — Nero's Baths — Avernus — River Styx — Backing —

Beneventum—Foggia—Brindisi— Mediterranean Voyage 156

ALEXANDRIA.

Alexander the Great— Ptolemy Philadelphus — Pharos— Sostratus' Stratagem — Pompey's Pillar — Diocletian — Fall of the Serapeum — Obelisks — Library — Alexandria and New Testament — Hypatia and Cleopatra — Cleopatra and the Cjesars — Journey to Cairo — Water Wheels — Boy and Sweep-pole 1 74

INDEX TO CHAPTERS. ix

CAIRO AND MOHAMMEDANISM.

Pyramids — Cairo — Ezbekiyeh — Sultan's Palace — Citadel Mosque — Mamelukes — Tombs of Sultans — Tombs of Caliphs— Thos. Cook — Al Azhur — Mosque of Amre — Mohammedanism 187

OUT OF EGYPT.

Pyramids— Nile Bridge — El Postal — Bedouins — Abdul — Summit — King's Chamber — Memphis — Race — Apis Tombs — Mastaba of Ti — Step Pyramids — Boulac Museum — Shoubra Road — Sweethearts — Goshen — Canal 203

PORT SAID TO JERUSALEM.

Port Said — Arabs — "No Copper " — Joppa — Hotel — Service— House of Simon — English Service — Orange Groves — Horses— Plain of Sharon — Ramleh — Lydda — Valley of Ajalon (Kirjath-Jearim) — Kolonieh — Air-Karim — Moab Mountains — First View of City — Valley and Pool of Gihon — Joppa Gate , 217

JERUSALEM.

First View — Joppa Gate — Tower of David — Pool of Hezekiah — History of the City — Jebus — Shishak— Alexander — Population in Herod's time — Caliphs — Seljuk Turks— Pilgrims — H(jly Places — Greek Holy Fire — Via Dolorosa — Wailing Place — David's Tomb — Church of St. James. . . 232

BETHLEHEM TO SOLOMON'S POOLS.

Valley of Rephaim — Rachel's Tomb — Weeping Relatives — Stones — Solomon's Pools — Water Supply — -Fountains — Solomon's Garden — Etam — Frank Mountain — Bethlehem — Church of Nativity — Field of Shepherds — Watch — Boaz and Ruth 254

DEAD SEA AND JORDAN VALLEY.

Bare Hills — Mar-Saba — Camp — Night-thoughts — Long Ride — Our Guard — Castle of Machaerus — Mt. Nebo — Pisgah — Dead Sea — Jordan — Gilgal — Valley of Achor — Ancient Jericho — View from Summit — Fountain of Elisha— Nubk 268

JERICHO TO JERUSALEM.

Quarantania — Ravens of Cherith — Man that " went down to Jericho" — Samaritan's Inn — Deep Gorge — Russia — Enshemesh — Bethany — Mt. of Olives — Gethsemane — Kedron — Valley of Hinnom — Lepers — Tower of David — Communion on Mt. Zion 282

X. INDEX TO CHAPTERS.

IN JERUSALEM.

Characteristics of the City — Harem-es-Sheriff — Mosque of Omar — Mosque EI Aksa — Dome of the Chain — Solomon's Seat — Sacred Associations — Siege of City — Capture by Titus — Mt. Zion — Communion — Customs — Costumes — Classes 297

JERUSALEM TO SHECHEM.

Departure — Last View — Reflections — Nob — Gibeah — Ramah — Beeroth — Bethel — Ephraim — Robbers' Fountain — Sinjil — Camp — Shiloh — Leboush — Plain of Mukhna — Jacob's Well — Joseph's Tomb — Gerizim — Ebal — Samaritan Worship — Pentateuch 310

NABLOUS TO NAZARETH.

Valley — Watermills — Samaria — Church of St. John Baptist — Samaritans — Herod's Colonnade — History of Siege — Dothan, Jenin — Plain of Esdraelon — Mountains of Gilboa — Jezreel — Gideon's Fountain — Saul's last Battle — Shunem — Nain — Endor — Caves — Mistake — People — Nazareth — Shepherd and Flock — Lord's Day Morning — Service — Carpenter Shop of Joseph — Mills — Bake Ovens — Fountain — Church of Nativity — Humbugs — Greek Church — View from Hill-summit — Girls' Orphan- ' age — Boys' School — Reflections 328

NAZARETH TO SEA OF GALILEE.

Departure — Gath-Hepper — Cana — Water Jar — Pilgrims' Horn — Hattin — Fall of the Cross — Tiberias — Fishing — Boating — Magdala — Capernaum — Bethsaida — Kahn Minyeh — Moonlight Songs and Reflections ^^S

SEA OF GALILEE TO DAMASCUS.

Khan Yubb Yusef — Sheep — Harem — Lake Huleh — Dan — Csesarea Philippi — Mt. Hermon — Kefr Hauwar — Site of Saul's Conversion — Interesting Time — "Fun" — Damascus — Grand Mosque — "Kill or Cure" Fountain

DAMASCUS TO BEYROUT.

House of Rimmon — Street Called Straight — Houses of Judas and Ananias — Erudition — Christian Quarter — Massacre — Abd-El-Kader — Khans and Bazaars — Good-bye Damascus — Fountain of Fijeh — Fishing — Abilene — Zebdany — Yakfufeh — Baalbec — Kerak-Nuh- — Beyrout — Conder's Conclusions ^gn