A Baptist abroad; or, Travels and adventures in Europe and all Bible lands

Front matter

Class .JM_1

Book

A BAPTIST ABROAD

Introduction

Next to seeing a foreign land with one's own eyes is seeing it through the eyes of an intelligent, appreciative countryman. The word is purposely chosen, because one wishes to know what is observed and thought by a person who has tastes, sympathies and views in common with himself. A thousand things in a strange country are interestinof and in different degfrees. One studies historically, another socially, another politically, another ecclesiastically, while unfortunately not a few rush pell-mell bringing back the most superficial and indistinct impressions. Some find most satisfaction in architecture, while others have their chiefest enjoyment in sculpture, in painting, in natural scenery, in costumes and customs. No two have precisely the same fancies, and yet an observant, cultivated countryman is more likely to please us by what he likes and describes than is a foreigner whose point of view and whose mental habitudes are so different from our own. What is most pleasing in a book of travels Is wide and varied observation, is an account of several

IV INTRODUCTION,

countries inhabited by different races and distinguished by marked peculiarities.

This volume embraces a wide extent of travel, and includes an account of visits to Great Britain, Switzerland, Italy, Turkey, Greece, Palestine, Egypt, etc. The full table of contents is a little misleading, for the chapters pertaining to Europe are short, and Palestine takes up a considerable portion of the work. The author, avoiding what is dry or didactic, manages to compress into his pages much valuable and trustworthy information. His own religious denomination, naturally and properly, is not overlooked, and from eminent men he has succeeded in obtaining monographs which o-ive interesting facts, drawn from most authentic sources. The portraitures of men, of whom everybody wishes to know more, constitute an Interesting feature of the book.

The journey was not a mere vacation tour, a hasty gallop to points visited by circular tourists, but it comprised many months of patient toil, nor were the countries seen from the windows of the car of an express train, Lubboch, in his essay on the Pleasures of Travel, says that some think that every one should travel on foot "like Thales, Plato and Pythagoras," Mr. Whittle is a pedestrian by choice, full of enterprise, activity, courage

INTRODUCTION.

and enthusiasm, and on foot he deviated often from the beaten paths, and had opportunities for careful examination of objects of interest and for much pleasant and instructive intercourse with the "common people." With an eye quick to discern what was peculiar, with an unquenchable thirst for kowledge, he combined a cheerful* disposition, a ready appreciation of the humorous, and has succeeded in giving the public a volume, every page of which is interesting.

Travel, as a means of improvement, of education, of broadening horizon, of getting us out of narrow ruts, can hardly be overestimated. A visit to Europe, Africa and Asia makes objective what was subjective, and gives realism to what was before vaguely in our memories. Some acquaintance with geography, with history, literature, art, enhances the interest and the profit. A young student who had visited Jerusalem was much flattered by a request from Humboldt to call and see him. The savant soon showed that from reading and inquiry he had more knowledge of the city than the youth had acquired by his visit. With some mortification and a little petulance the young man said: " I understood, sir, that you had never visited the Holy City." "True," replied Humboldt, "I never have; but I once got

VI INTRODUCTION.

ready to go." Mr. Whittle, with wise forethought, had made preparation for his visit. He knew what he wanted to see, traveled with a purpose, and has so imparted to his readers what he learned and observed that one catches in part the enthusiasm of the traveler.

J. L. M. Curry.

Preface

"Around the World in Eighty Days" has had an extensive circulation, especially in America. The title is striking. Our people like to do things quickly. Many of them would be glad to girdle the globe in forty days. They forget that "what is worth doing at all is worth doing well." Under the patronage of Tourist Agencies it has become quite fashionable of late to do Europe in three months. These flying trips do perhaps result in some good to the tourist, but they are valuable chiefly to the agencies under which they are made.

Traveling is no child's play. Sight seeing when properly done is hard work, but hard work is the kind of work that pays best in the long run. To see any country aright and understand it correctly one must not merely visit its fashionable watering places, large cities, splendid abbeys and cathedrals, noted art galleries, rrtuseums, etc. He must see these things to be sure, but in addition to these he must, in order to get a correct conception, go out into the mountains, into the rural districts, and there study the soil, climate and products of the country. He must commune with the yeomanry the common people, and closely scrutinize their

Vlll PREFACE.

daily life and habits. He must see, as best he can,hov/ climate, political surroundings, education, occupation, and religion affect their character. He must project himself as far as possible into the thoughts and feelings of the people among whom he is traveling. This prepares him to sympathize with them, and to look at things from their standpoint. The traveler is then prepared to reason from cause to effect. He has gotten hold of that golden thread of truth which leads to right conclusions. He is in condition to explain upon correct and philosophical principles the Socialism of France, the Skepticism of Germany, the Nihilism of Russia, and the Pauperism of Turkey.

Having under the providence of God been permitted to make an extensive and prolonged trip through the East, I determined from the outset to get out of the beaten tracks of travel. In applying the above-named principles, I walked a thousand miles through different European countries, and rode six hundred miles and more in the saddle through Bible lands. This necessarily gave me a varied experience, and brought me into close contact with every phase of nature and human nature. At times every faculty of mind and heart was stirred to its profoundest depths. I was forced to think. And, lest these thrilling thoughts should slip away from me, I determined "to fasten them in words and chain them in writing." I agree with Gray that "a few

PREFACE. IX

words fixed upon or near the spot are worth a cartload of recollectionr

This accounts to some extent for the use of the present tense in the book, and also for the colloquial style in which it is written — it was composed on or near the spot. True, since then it has been carefully revised, re-written and enlarged; but originally it was written " on the spot." I made these pages my trusted confidant. To them I expressed my " every thought and floating fancy," and my words formed a true thermometer to my soul. But now I release these pages from all obligations of secrecy. They may tell it in Gath, and withhold it not in Askelon. I propose to take the public into my confidence. "In short, never did ten shillings purchase so much friendship since confidence went first to market, or honesty was set up to sale."

I have carefully excluded all opiates from these pages. Brevity is the only claim I make to wit. I have not attempted to exhaust the subjects treated. My words are intended simply to strike the reader's thoughts which may interpret further. " If you would be prudent, be brief, " says Southey, " for 'tis with words as with sunbeams, the more they are condensed the deeper they burn."

" Clarence P. Johnson " was my man " Friday," and from some of the jokes gotten off at his expense the reader may conclude that he is a "maneater," as was that other Friday of Robinson Crusoe fame. But not so. This was his maiden

X PREFACE.

trip out of his native city. Such things happened to him while traveling as would naturally occur with any other youth under the same circumstances. He Is a young man of fine spirit and extraordinary business capacity. He will some day be known and felt In the commercial world.

It gives me peculiar pleasure to acknowledge my indebtedness to Professor John R. Sampey, D. D., for valuable assistance rendered while preparing this book for the press.

I have made free use of a wide range of literature, but trust that In each case due credit has been given to the author. Many of the measurements given were made by myself, others have been taken from reliable sources.

While abroad, I made it a special point to study the history and outlook of the Baptists in each of the several countries throuofh which I traveled, and I have not failed to record the result of my observations. But, in order to have Baptist history correctly, authentically, and impartially given, I have secured chapters from eminent men on the Baptists of their several countries.

W. A. W.

Chapter I. Off For New York

Preparations — A Prayer and a Benediction — An Impatient Horse and a Run for Eternity — Strange Sceptre and Despotic Sway — Beauty in White Robes — Approaching the Metropolis — Business Heart of the New World — A Bright Face and a Cordial Greeting — An Hour with the President — More for a Shilling and Less for a Pound — A Stranger Dies in the Author's Arms — Namesake — Prospects of Becoming a Great Man— A Confused College Student — The Hour of Departure — Native Land. Page, ...... 21

CHAPTER H.

ON THE HIGH SEAS.

A Difficulty with the Officers of the Ship — A Parting Scene— Danger on the Atlantic — A Parallel Drawn — Liberty Enlightening the World — Life on the Ocean Wave — Friends for the Journey — The Ship a Little World — A Clown and his Partner — Birds of a Feather — Whales — Brain Food — Storm at Sea — A Frightened Preacher — Storm Rages — A Sea of Glory — Richard Himself Again — Land in Sight— Scene Described — Historic Castle — Voyage Ended — Two Irishmen. Page, • 29

Chapter III. The Land Of Burns

English Railway Coaches — Millionaires, Crowned Heads, and Fools — A Conductor Caught on a Cow-catcher — Last Rose of Summer— Off on Foot to the Land of Burns — Appearance of Country and Condition of People — Destination Reached— Doctor Whitsitt and Oliver Twist — The Ploughman Poet — His Cottage — His Relics — His Work and Worth— His Grave and Monument — A Broad View of Life. Page, ......... 38

Chapter IV. Edinburg

A JoUy Party of Americans —Dim-Eyed Pilgrim — Young Goslings — An American Goose Ranch — Birthplace of Robert Pollok and Mary Queen of Scots — The Boston of Europe— Home of Illustrious Men — A Monument to the Author — Monument to Sir Walter Scott — Edinburgh Castle — Murdered and Head Placed on the Wall — Cromwell's Siege — Stones of Power — A Dazzling Diadem — A Golden Collar — Baptized in Blood — Meeting American Friends. Page ' a-j

XI 1 CONTENTS.

Chapter V. A Tramp-trip Through The Highlands

His Royal Hij^hness and a Demand for Fresh Air — A Boy in his Father's Clothes — Among the Common People — Nature's Stronghold — Treason Found in Trust — liody Quartered and Exposed on Iron Spikes — Receiving a Royal Salute — Following no Road but a Winding River — Sleeveless Dresses and Dyed Hands — Obelisk to a Novelist and Poet — On the Scotch Lakes — Eyes to See but See Not — A Night of Rest and a Morning of Surprise — A Terrestrial Heaven — A Poetic Inspiration — A Deceptive Mountain — A Glittering Crown — Hard to Climb — An Adventure and a Narrow Escape— Johnson Gives Out — ■ Put to Bed on the Mountain Side — On and Up — A Summit at Last — Niagara Petrified — Overtaken by the Night^Johnson Lost in the Mountains — A Fruitless Search — Bewildered — Exhausted — Sick. Page, .... 57

Chapter VI. A General View Of Scotland

Highlands and Lowlands — Locked up for Fifteen Days — The Need of a Good Sole — A Soft Side of a Rock — The Charm of Reading on the Spot — A Fearful Experience — Bit and Bridle — Thunder-Riven — Volcanic Eruption — Dangerous Pits— An Hundred-Eyed Devil — Gloomy Dens — Meeting an Enemy — Eyes Like Balls of Fire — Voice Like Rolling Thunder — A Speedy Departure — Leaping from Rock to Rock — Silver Thread among the Mountains — Imperishable Tablets — The Cave of Rob Roy and the Land of the McGregors — Lady of the Lake and Ellen's Isle — Lodging with Peasants and with Gentlemen — Rising in Mutiny — Strange Fuel — Character of Scotch People — Scotch Baptists — Sunrise at Two O'Clock in the Morning. Page, . 67

Chapter VII. From Dundee To Manchester

Scotch Presbyterians in Convention — Their Character and Bearing — On the Footpath to Abbotsford — The Home of Scott — Five Miles through the Fields — Melrose Abbey and the Heart of Bruce — Hospitality of a Baptist Preacher — Adieu to Scotland — Merry England — Manchester — Exposition and Prince of Wales — Manchester and Cotton Manufacturers — A $25,000,000 Scheme — Dr. Alexander Maclaren — His Appearance — The Force of his Thought — The Witchery of his Eloquence — His Hospitality Enjoyed — A Promise Made. Page, .......... 75

Chapter VIII. Baptist Centennial

Three Baptist Associations — Centennial Year and Jubilee Year — Baptists Seen at their Best — Doctor Alexander Maclaren — Matchless Eloquence — Hon. John. Bright Delivers an Address — Boundless Enthusiasm — English Hospitality — A Home with the Mayor. Page, 84

• CONTENTS. XIU

Chapter IX. A Sojourn In England And On To Wales

Arrested and Imprisoned — Released without a Trial — Nottingham — Dwellers in Caves — Seven Hundred Years Old — forests of Ivanhoe and Robin Hood- Birthplace of Henry Kirk White— Home of the Pilgrim Fathers— Home of Thomas Cranmer — A Guide's Information — Home of Lord Byron — Wild Beasts from the Dark Continent— A Sad Epitaph — Byron's Grave — A Wedding Scene— Marriage Customs — Wales and Sea- Bathing — Among the Mountains — Welsh Baptists — A Tottering Establishment. Page, . . go

Chapter X. London

Entering London — The Great City Crowded — Six Million Five Hundred Thousand

People Together — Lost in London — A Human Niagara — A Policeman and

i^ockup — The Jubilee and the Golden Wedding — " God Save the Queen."

and God Save the People — Amid England's Shouts and Ireland's Groans

Heard. Page, 98

Chapter XI. Sights Of London

Traveling in London— London a Studio — The Hum of Folly and the Sleep of Traffic — Five Million Heads in Nightcaps — Too Many People Together — Survival of the Fittest — Place and Pride — Poverty and Penury — Beneficence in London — East End — Assembly Hall — A Converted Brewer — His Great Work — Meeting an Old Schoolmate. Page, 107

CHAPTER XII. A TRIO OF ILLUSTRIOUi MEN

Joseph Parker — Canon Farrar^Charles H. Spurgeon. Page, . . . 118 CHAPTER XIII.

NOTTINGHAM, CAMBRIDGE, AND BEDFORD.

Preaching to 2,500 People — Entertained after the Manner of Royalty — Excursion to Cambridge — What Happened on the Way — Received an Entertainment by the Mayor — Cambridge University — King's Chapel — Fitzwilliam Museum — Trinity College — Cambridge Bibles — Adieu to Friends — Bedford — The Church where John Bunyan Preached — Bedford Jail, where Bunyan wrote Pilgrim's Progress — Bunyan's Statue — Elstow, Bunyan "s Birthplace — His Cottage — His Chapel — An Old Elm Tree. Page, 123

Chapter XIV. The Batists Of England

Their Number and Divisions — The Regular Baptists — Their Movements and Progress. Page, ..,..,..,.., 130

XIV CONTENTS

Chapter XV. Last Of England And First Of The Continent

Windsor Castle, the Home of England's Queen — Queen Victoria — The Home of Shakespeare — Across the Channel — First Impressions — Old Time Ways — Brussels on a Parade — Waterloo Re-enacted — A Visit to the Field of Waterloo — A Lion with Eyes Fixed on France — Interview with a Man who Saw Napoleon — Wertz Museum — " Napoleon in Hell" — "Hell in Revolt against Heaven " — " Triumph of Christ " — Age Offering the Things of the Present to the Man of the Future, Page, 143

Chapter XVI. From Belgium To Cologne And Up Thf, Rhine

Brussels — Its Laces and Carpets — Belgium a Small Country — Cultivated like a Garden — Into Germany — Aix-La-Chapelle — Birthplace of Charlemagne — Capital of Holy Roman Empire — Cathedral Built by Charlemagne — A Strange Legend — Shrine of the Four Relics — A Pulpit Adorned with Ivory and Studded with Diamonds — Cologne — Its Inhabitants — Its Perfumery — Its Cathedral — A Pdiiderous Bell — A Church Built of Human Bones — Sailing up the Rhine — A River of Song — Bonn — Its LTniversity— Birthplace of Beethoven — Feudal Lords — The Btoody Rhine — Dragon's Rock — A Combat with a Serpent — A •Convent with a Love Story — Empress of the Night — Intoxicated — Coblentz^ A Tramp-Trip through Germany — Sixteen Thousand Soldiers Engaged in Battle — Enchanted Region — Loreli — -Son-in-Law of Augustus Caesar — Birthplace of Gutenberg, the Inventor of Printing. Page, .... 155

Chapter XVII. From Frankfort To Worms

Frankfort-on-ths-Main — Met at Depot b/ a Committee — Frankfort, the Home of Culture and Art — Birthplace of Goethe — -"He Preaches like a God" — The Home of Rothchild — A Visit to his House — Worms and its History — Lut'^'er and a Bad Diet — Luther Monument — Theses Nailed on the Door — Fame of Luther and his Followers more Imperishable than their Bronze. Statues. Page, - . 168

Chapter XVIII. German Baptists

A Weak Beginning — Persecutions — Firm Faith — Rapid Growth — A Trio of Leaders — Theological Schools — Publishing House — Hopeful Outlook. Page.

Chapter XIX. Out Of Germany Into Switzerland

A Lesson from Nature — Tramp-Trip through the Black Forests — Heidelberg Castle — Basil, Switzerland — Met by a Friend — Emigrants off for America — Delivering an Address to the Emigrants — The Grave of Erasmus — Gateway to the Heart of the Alps — Snowy Peaks — Rendezvous of the Nations — Beautiful Scene — Moonlight on the Lake — Sweet Music — Pretty Girls — Mountains Shaken with Thunder and Wrapped with Fire. Page,

CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XX. Switzerland As Seen On Foot

Alpine Fever — Flags of Truce — Schiller and the Swiss Hero — Tail's Statue and Chapel — Ascent of the Rigi— Beautiful Scenery — Famous Falls— Rambles in the Mountains — Glaciers — The Matterhorn — Yung Frau — Ascent of Mount Blanc- An Eagle in the Clouds— Switzerland and her People — The Oldest Republic in the World—' Home, Sweet Home " — High Living — Land Owners — Alpine Folk — Night Spent m a Swiss Chalet— Johnson in Trouble— Walk of Six Hundred Miles — Famous Alpine Pass — A Night above the Clouds — Saint Bernard Hospice — Overtaken in a Snow-.'itorm— Hunting Dead Men — The Alps as a Monument — Geneva — Prison of Chilon — How Time was Spent — Tongue of Praise. Page, .,..,..

Chapter XXI. Baptist Mission Work In France

Incipiency of the Work — Obstacles to Overcome — Progress — Hopeful Outlook. Page, - .

Chapter XXII. From Vienna Down The Danube To Constantinople

A Black Night on the Black Sea— A Doleful Dirge— Two Thousand Miles — Vienna — Its Architecture — Its Palace — Its Art Galleries and Museums — Through Hungary, Servia, Slavonia, and Bulgaria — Cities and Scenery along the Danube — Products of the Countries — Entering the Bosphorus amid a War of the Elements — Between Two Continents — Constantinople — Difficulty with a Turkish Official — A Babel of Tongues— The Sultan at Prayer — Twenty Thousand Soldiers on Guard — Multiplicity of Wives — Man-Slayer. Page,

Chapter XXIII. From Constantinople To Athens

A stormy Day on Marmora — Sunrise on Mount Olympus — Brusa, the Ancient Capital of Turkey — Ancient Troy — Homeric Heroes — Agamemnon's Fleet — - Th2 Woodsn Horse — Paul's Vision at Troas — Athens — A Lesson in Greek — The Acropolis — The Parthenon — Modern Athens — Temple of Jupiter — The Prison of Socrates— The Platform of Demosthenes — Mars Hill and Paul's Sermon — Influence of the Ancients. Page, ....*. CHAPTER XXIV.

ASIA MINOR AND THE ISLAND OF PATHOS,

Smyrna — Its Commerce — Its Populaticn — Famed Women — Home of the Apostle John — One of the Seven Asiatic Churches — Martyrdom and Tomb of Polycarp — Emblematic Olive Trse— Out into the Interior of Asia Minor — Struck by Lightning — Visit to Ephesus — Birthplace of Mythology — Temple of Diana — Relics of the Past — Homers Birthplace — A Baptist Preacher and a Protracted Meeting — John the Baptist and the Virgin Mary — Timothy's Grave — Cave of the Seven Sleepers — Return to Smyrna — Sail to Patmos — Patmos, the Exiled Home of the Y\postle John — The Island of Rhodes and the Colossus — Death and Disease on the Ship — Quarantined — A Watery Grave — Hope Anchored within the Vail. Page, ........

XVI CONTENTS.

Chapter XXV. From Bkyrout To The Cedars Of Lebanon

Landing at Beyrout — Escape from Death — Thankful Hearts — Seed Planted- Desire Springes up — Bud of Hope — Golden Fruit — " By God's Help" — Preparations — New Traveling Companions — Employing a Dragoman — A Many- Sided Man Required to Make a Successful Traveler — " Equestrian Pilgrims" A Great Caravan — Ships of the Desert— Preparations for War — A Dangerous Mishap — National Hymn — Journey Begun — Mulberry Trees — Fig-Leaf Dresses — An Inspiring Conversation — The Language of Balaam — City of Tents - General Rejoicing — Tidings of Sadness — Welcome News — First Night in Tents — Sabbath Day's Rest — Johnson and his Grandmother — A Wedding Procession — Johnson Delighted — Brides Bought and Sqld — Increase in Price — Inferiority of Woman — Multiplicity of Wives — Folding of Tents — Camel Pasture — Leave Damascus Road — Noah's Tomb, Eighty-Five Feet Long — Perilous i* scent — Brave Woman — " If I Die, Carry Me on to the Top '' — The Cedars at Last Emotions Stirred " The Righteous Grow like the Cedars of Lebanon " — Amnon. Page, ........

Chapter XXVI. From The Cedars Of Lebanon To Baalbek

Returning to Tents — Mountain Spurs and Passes — A Modern Thermopylae — Two Caravans Meet — A Fight to the Death — How Johnson Looks — Victory at Last^ — Into the Valley where the King Lost his Eyes — Playing at Agriculture — Squalid Poverty — Baalbek — Its Mighty Temples — Men, Mice and Monkeys — A Poem Writ in Marble. Page,

Chapter XXVII. Damascus

A Beautiful Valley — Flowing Rivers — Mohammed at Damascus — Garden of God — Paul at Damascus — Mohammedan at Prayer — Valley More Beautiful — Damascus Exclusively Oriental— Quaint Architecture — "Often in Wooden Houses Golden Rooms we Find " — Narrow Streets — Industrious People — Shoe Bazaars — Manufacturing Silk by hand — Fanatical Merchants — "Christian Dogs" — Cabinet-Making — Furniture Inlaid with Pearl — Camel Markets — A Progenitor of the Mule — Machinery Unknown — Ignorance Stalks Abroad — Fanatical Arabs— A Massacre — The Governor Gives the Signal — Christians Killed — French Army — Abraham Our Guide — Brained before Reathing the Post-Office — Warned not to Look at the Women — Johnson's Regret — Vailed Women — Johnson's Explanation. Page, ......

Chapter XXVIII. The Naaman Hospital For The Leprosy

Naaman, the Leper — His Visit to Elisha — The Prophet's Command — Naaman Cured — House Turned into a Leper Hospital — Off to the Lepers' Den — Origin, History and Nature of Leprosy — Arrival at the Gloomy Prison — Abraham, " I Didn't Promise to Go into the Tomb with You '' — "Screw your Courage to the Sticking Point" — Johnson s Reply — Suspicious of the Arab Gate-Keepers — A Charge to Abraham — Life in Johnson's Hands — Mamie

CONTENTS. Xvii

and the Currant-Bush — Among; the Lepers — Judgment Come — Graves Open — Living- Corpses — Walking Skeletons — Strewing out Coins — An Indescribable Scene — An Indelible Picture — Horrible Dreams. Page,

Chapter XXIX. From Damascus To The Sea Of Galilee

Sick, nigh unto Death — "Night Bringeth out the Stars'' — Mount Herrnon and the Transfiguration — Beautiful Camp-Ground — Amnon, the Reliable — "Thou Art Peter" — Fountain of the Jordan — Slaughter of the Buffaloes — Crossing into Galilee — Dan — Abraham's Visit — A Fertile Valley — Wooden Plow^s — A Bedouin Village —Costumes of Eden — A Gory Field — Sea of Galilee — Sacred Memories — The Evening Hour — A Soliloquy — Bathing — Sailing — Fishing. Page, ...........

Chapter XXX

A Seven Hour's Journey — A Rough Road and a Hot Sun — Gazelles — Nimrods of Today — Historic Corn-Field — Cana of Galilee — First Miracle — Cana at Present — Greek and Roman Convents— Conflicting Stories of Greek and Latin Priests — Explanation — An Important Fact — Marriage Divinely Instituted — Woman Degraded — Woman Honored — Description of Nazareth — Childhood Home of Jesus — Jesus and the Flower-Gaiden — Studying Nature — He Goes to the Mountain Top — Without Bounds or Limits — A Fit Play-Ground and Suitable School-Room for the Royal Child — Rock Bluff where the People Tried to "Cast him down Headlong ' — The Carpenter Shop — The Virgin's Fountain — Nazareth at Present — Protestant Missions — A Short Sermon and a Sweet Song. Page, ..........

Chapter XXXI. A Characteristic Scene In The Orient

Shepherd Tents — Many Flocks in One Sheep-Cote for the Night — Many Merchants from Different Countries — Ships Anchored — Arabs at Meal — Arabs Smoking — Shepherds with their Reed-Pipes — Merchants' Response — Music and Dancing at Night — Bustle and Confusion in the Morning — Fight Like Madmen — Over-Burdened Camels — Camp Broken up — Dothan and Joseph's Pit — Money- Loving Mohammedans— Crafty Jews — Return to Tents — The Shepherds Awaken — Crook, Sling and Reed-Pipe — David and Goliath — Shepherds under the Star-Lit Sky — " Glory to God in the Highest." Page, .

Chapter XXXII

A Man ' ' Fell among Thieves " — The Way still Lined with Thieves — Guards Necessary — Across the Mount of Olives — Bethany and its Memories- David's Flight from Jerusalem — ' ' Halt ! Halt ! " — Seized with Terror — Splendid Horsemanship — "A Flard Road to Trabble'' — Inn v, here the Good Samaritan Left the Jew — Brigands on the Way -side — Robbers and Guards in Collusion — Topography of the Country — Dangers and Difficulties — Perilous Places Pass-

XVUl CONTENTS.

ed — Plain of Jericho — Writhing in Agony — The City of Palms — Trumps of Joshua — Jericho in the Time of Herod — Iron-Fingered Fate — Jericho at Present — A Divine Region — Pool of Moses — Antony and Cleopatra. Page

CHAPTER XXXni.

BEYOND THK JORDAN.

Plain of Moab — Children of Israel — Moses's Request — Moab a Rich Country — Lawless Clans — A Traveler Brutally Murdered — A Typical Son of Ishmael — Dens and Strongholds — Captured by a Clan of Arabs — Shut up in Mountain Caves — ^ Heavy Ransom Exacted — The Moabite Stone — Confirmation of Scripture — Machaerus — John the Baptist — Prison Chambers — Character of John — How to Gua:;e a Life — Hot-Springs — Herod's Visit — " Smell of Blood still " — Mount Nebo — Fine View — Life of Moses — From Egypt to Nebo — An Arab Legend — Death of Moses. Page, ......

Chapter XXXIV

Two Thoughts — From Nebo to the River — Thrilling Emotions — Historic Ground — A Sacred Scene — An Earnest Preacher — Christ Baptized — Awe-Stricken People — A Sacred River — Bathing of Pilgrims — Robes Become Shrouds — The Ghor of the Jordan — The Valley an Inclined Plane — The Three Sources of the River — The Jordan Proper — Banks — Tributaries — Bridges — River Channel — Velocity of the Water— Its Temperature — Its Width and Depth — Vegetation along the Stream — Wild Beasts — Birds. Page, ....

Chapter XXXV. The Dead Sea

A Wonderful Body of Water — Receives 20,000,000 Cubic Feet of Water per Day — Has no Outlet — Never Fills Up — In the Sea — Johnson's Suggestion as to my Identity — Why One Cannot Sink^-" Salt Sea" — Caught in a Storm — Danger of Death — Dreary Waste — Cea of Fire — JohnEon's Argument — New- Born Babe — Child Dies — Lot's Wife — Her Past History and Present Condition — The Frenchman's Book — Why the Sea is so Salt — Why it Never Fills Up — Sown with Diamonds — Origin of the Dead Sea — God's Wrath — The Sodom Apple — The Sea an Emblem of Death Page,

Chapter XXXVI. Two Russian Pilgrims, Or A Picture Of Life

A Steep Mountain — Rough Base — Beautiful Summit — Russian Pilgrims — Journey up Mountain — Life's Hill — Courage in Heart — Marriage Altar — Long Pilgrimage — Star of Hope. Page,

Chapter XXXVII. From Jerusalem, Vi.a Bethlehem And Pools Of Solomon, To Hebron

Rachel's Tomb — Bethlehem — Ruth and Boas — David the Shepherd Lad — Cave of the Nativity — Pools of Solomon — Royal Gardens — The Home of Abraham — Abraham's Oak — Abraham's Mummy. Page,

CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter Xxxviii. From Dan To Beersheba

Palestine — Its Situation — Its Dimensions — Its Names — Its Topography — Its Climate — Its Seasons — Its Agriculture — Its People — The Pleasure of Traveling tnrough Palestine. Page, .........