Notes of travel, in Europe, Egypt, and the Holy Land, including a visit to the city of Constantinople, in 1841 and 1842.

Front matter

'O r:

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Preface

The object which the author of these Notes had in view, in his late tour, was merely the gratification of his own curiosity. He had no intention of publishing any account of his observations, and hence, during his travels he kept very brief notes of the various countries and places visited, the objects of curiosity which attracted his attention, and the every-day scenes and occurrences of his journey. But after his return home, the frequent solicitations and earnest entreaties of numerous friends, induced him to prepare his Notes for the press. He has necessarily confined himself in these Notes to very brief sketches, without attempting any detailed description. He has carefully avoided all superfluous matter and common-place reflections ; presenting to the reader plain facts, in preference to gaudy embellishments, and abstract, verbose and useless observations, which would only increase the size of his book, without imparting any intrinsic value to the work. In giving minute descriptions of some few objects of great interest, he has occasionally availed himself of some of the excellent guide-books with which travellers are usually provided.

Chapter I

Passage across the Atlantic— Prince's Dock— Liverpool— Manchester- English Steamers— Dublin— Caven— Jaunt Car of Ireland— Belturbet Ballyconnel — Irish Cottage — Belfast — Krum Castle — Remarkable Yew Tree— Enniskiilen— Lough Erne— Castle Koon— Londonderry —Walker's Monument— Fairs— Glasgow— Monuments of Nelson and Knox— Edinburgh— The Castle— Calton Hill— Palace of Holyrood— Dumbarton Castle— English Railroad— Road from London to Dover- Rigid Police of Custom-House in France— Calais— Diligence— Pans —Palace of the Tuileries— Palace Royal— Champ-de-Mars— Champs- Ely sees— Place Vendome— Bridges— Place Concord— Hotel of Inva= lids— Tomb of Napoleon— Tomb of La Fayette— Cemetery— Versailles —Lyons— Banks of the Rhone— Avignon— Marseilles - - 13

Chapter II

Genoa— Palaces— Council-Chamber— Columbus— Churches-University —Character of the Geonese— Leghorn— Annoyance from Watermen —Assassination — Elba — Phenomenon in the Mediterranean Sea— Civita Vecchia — Rome — Police Regulations— Porta del Popolo-- Effyptian Obelisk— Churches- St. Peter's— Christmas at St. Peter s —St: John Lateran— St. Maria Maggiore— Cradle of the Saviour— Palaces— the Vatican— Relics— Superstition— Capitol— Prison of St. Peter and St. Paul— Coliseum-Pantheon— Arch of Constantine--Of Titus— Trajan's Pillar— Column of Antoninus— Palatine Hill— ±ig- Tree of Romulus and Remus— Catacombs— Jew's Quarters— Aqueducts— Museums— Academies — Colleges— Propaganda— Car nival — Passports

Chapter III

Incidents on the Road-Naples-Streets-Shops-Mole-Churches- Palaces -Theatres — Museum -. Neapolitans — Superstition— Roy ai Garden— The Bay— Vesuvius— Herculaneum — Pompeii— Character

Vlll CONTENTS.

of the Italians — Leaving the Bay — Passage to Malta — Stromboli — Etna — Malta — Fortifications — Valetta — 'Knights of Malta — Palaces — Cathedral — Floriana — Citta Vecchia — Grotto of St. Paul — Catacombs — Climate — Quarantine — History of Malta — Blockade - 45

Chapter IV

Passage to Athens — Syra — Greek Costume — Quarantine — Peiraeus — Arrival at Athens — Missionary School — Athens — 'New Palace — Aeropolis — Propylea — Temple of Victory — Parthenon — Erectheum — Theatre of Herodes Atticus— Gate of the Agora — Areopagus, or Mars' Hill — Temple of Theseus — Pnyx — Ancient Practice of Grecian Dames — Prisons of Socrates — Temple of Jupiter Olympus— Towner of the Winds — Visit to Salamis — King and Queen of Greece — Departure from Athens — Strange Regulation — Affecting Story of a Greek Patriot ---... ...gs

Chapter V

Appearance of Egypt — Landing at Alexandria — Camels — Arabs — Alex-

andria — Population — Buildings — Windmills of the Pacha — Bazar

Slave-market — Rain — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needle — Arab Poverty— Catacombs — Mohammed All's Palace — His Talents and Success — Arrangements for Ascending the Nile, and for Future Travel — Greek Servant — Departure from Alexandria — Mamoudich,or Pacha's Canal — A Skirmish — Arrival at the Nile — A Night's Lodging in an Egyptian Inn— The Nile— Moses and the Pharaohs— Boat of the Nile —Occurrences during the Passage— Sight of the Pyramids— Soil and Scenery along the Nile — Irrigations— Oppressive Taxation— Summary Mode of Recruiting the Army and Navy — Inhabitants - 75

Chapter VI

Arrival at Boulak— Entrance into Cairo— Hotels— Locality of Cairo- Buildings and Streets— Bazars— Slave-market— Lunatic Asylum- Citadel— Joseph's Well and Tomb— Mohammed All's Palace— His New Mosque— Missionary School— Cemeteries— Visit to the Pyramids—Catacombs—Cemetery for Birds— Annoyance from the Fellahs —Great Pyramid of Cheops— Extensive Prospect from its Summit— Agihty of an Arab Girl— Unreasonable Demand— Interior of Cheops— IheSphynx-Ghizeh— Egyptian Mode of Hatching Chickens—Island m Khoda—Nilometer- Finding of Moses— Mountains of Rubbish— Hehopohs— Joseph and Mary in Egypt— Petrified Forest - 88

Chapter VII

Departure from Cairo— Land of Goshen— First Night in the Desert— An Advenlure-Arab Wedding Procession-A Lake— Quarrel with the Guides-Encampment of Turks- Another of Arabs-Salt Lake— Gazelle-El Ansh-Road of the Patriarchs, &c.-Immense Sand-banks—Vicinity of Gaza-Quarantine-Gaza— Bribing Quarantine

CONTENTS. IX

Officers — Valley of Sharon — Ramlah — Ride to Jerusalem — Mountains of Judea — David and Goliath — First Sight of Jerusalem — Deep Emotions — Reflections — Entrance by the Gate of Bethlehem — Latin Convent — View from the Roof — General View of Palestine — Judea — Samaria — Galilee — Present State of Palestine - - - - 100

Chapter VIII

Jerusalem — Streets and Houses — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Pilgrims — Sacred Slab — Sepulchre — Small Chapels of the Copts, &lc. — Absurd Traditions — Chapel of the Cross, &c. — Mount of Crucifixion — Ridiculous Ceremonies — Pool of Bethesda — Via Dolorosa — Martyrdom of Stephen — Turks' Cemetery — Tomb of Absalom — Jehoshaphat — St. James — Zeehariah — Tomb of the Virgin — Getbsemane — Mount of Olives — Mount Moriah — Temple — Mosque of Omar — Pool of Siloam — Aceldama — Mount Zion — Tomb of David — Armenian Convent — Hall of Caiaphas — Sepulchre of the Kings of Judah — Remains of the Ancient Wall — Jews' Place of Prayer — Lunatic — Worship with the Episcopal Bishop — His New Church — Baptism - - - 113

Chapter IX

Excursion to the Jordan — Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — Mount of Temptation — Jericho — Tower — Elisha's Fountain — Jordan — Events on the Banks — The Dead Sea — Buoyancy of the Water — Sodom and Gomorrah — Santa Saba — Bethlehem — Convent of the Nativity — Plains of Bethlehem — Rachel's Tomb — Monastery of St. Elias— Return to Jerusalem — Oppression of the Governor — Successful Audience— Pilgrim's Certificate .......... 129

Chapter X

Departure from Jerusalem — Jacob's Well — Joseph's Tomb — Naplous, the Ancient Schechem — Samaria — Prison of John the Baptist — Herod's Palace — Poor Accommodations — Mount Carmel — Gilboa — Hermon — Tabor — Nazareth — Church of the Annunciation — Joseph's Workshop — Synagogue — Pleasing Reflections — Cana of Galilee — Hot Springs — Tiberias — Sea of Tiberias — Magdala — Bethsaida — Chorazin — Genesareth — Capernaum — Reflections — Caipha — Visit to Mount Carmel — Plain of Jezreel — The Convent — St. Jean d'Acre — Bloody and Destructive Sieges — Solomon's Cisterns . - - .143

Chapter XI

Sur, the ancient Tyre — Hiram — Destruction of Tyre — Gazelles — Jackals — Sarepta — Sidon — Jonas the Prophet — Beyrout — American Missionaries — Mount Lebanon — Face of Syria — Syrians — Cyprus — Rhodes — Fortifications — Streets and Buildings — Harbours — Stupendous Statue — Patmos — Grotto of St. John — Revelations — Samos — Scio — Fate of Scio — Smyrna — One of the Seven Churches — Archi. pelago 158

X CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Arrival at the Dardanelles — Approach t© Constantinople — Arrival at the City — Golden Horn — Quarantine — Top-hanna — Turkish Costume — Caiques — Pera — Madame Josephine — Affecting- Greek Story — Constantinople — Stillness of the City — Dogs — View from the Tower — Scutari — Cemeteries — Torment of the Soul — Howling Dervishes — Dancing- Dervishes — Castle of the Seven Towers — Bazars — Slave-market — Seraglio - - - - - - - - -169

Chapter XIII

Mosque of St, Sophia— Mosque of Soleiman^ the Magnificent — Mosque of Sultan Ahmed - 183

Chapter XIV

Atmeidan — Burnt Column — Fires — Column of Theodosius — Cistern of Constantino— Aqueduct of Valens — Hans — Fountains — Baths — Streets —View from a Tower — Sweet Water — Sight of the Sultan — Illumination — Birth-day of Mahomet — Procession — Naval Dock-yard — Barracks — Schools — Military College — Model Farm — Military Hospital — Plague Hospital — Suburbs — Mosque of Eyoub— Okmeidan - 194

Chapter XV

Manners and Customs — Turkish Houses — Reception of Visiters— Pipes —Coffee — Visiter Retiring — Hospitality — Polygamy — Honesty — Truth — Devotion to Religion — Mahommedan Year — Ramazan — Bairam — Commerce 203

Chapter XVI

Bosphorus — Dolmaboghdsche — Monument of Barbarossa — Beschiktasche — Kura Tschesme — Garden of the Tower — Roumelia — Black Tower — Kaudili — Buyukdere — Commodore Porter — Giant's Mountain — Rumuli Kawak — Anatoli Kawak — Turris Timaea — Lighthouses — Cyanean Rocks- — Black Sea — Kistenji — Trajan's Wall — Danube — Trajan's Bridge — Roman Severinura — Iron Gate — Arrival at Orsova ... = - 213

CHAP_TER XVII.

Orsova — Parlatorium — Mountain Scenery — Via Trajana — Passport Missing — Mohacs — Bloody Battles — Pest- — Field of Rakos — Oppression of the Poor — Buda — Vulgar Practice — Inundations — Floating Mills — Vienna — The Glacis — Imperial Palace" — Jewel Office — Imperial Arsenal — Dwellings — Cathedral of St. Stephen's — Catacombs — Capuchin Church — Church of the Augustines — Grand Procession —

CONTENTS. XI

Dancing Saloons — Hospitals — Promenades — The Prater — Baden — Schonbrun — Departure from Vienna — Police of Austria - - 223

Chapter XVIII

Neustadt — Iron Virgin — Maiden's Leap — Castle of Gosting — Gratz — Remains of Ferdinand II. — Laibach — Idria — Quicksilver Mines — Lake of Zirknitz — Grotto of Adelsberg — Proteus Anguinus — The Karst — Trieste — Inhabitants — Capo di Istria — Pola — Amphitheatre — Temple of Augustus and Roma ---. = . 240

Chapter XIX

Venice — Peculiar Location — Singular Communication — Canals — Gondolas — Bridges — First Impressions — Square of St. Mark — Walking Comedians — Square of the Rialto — View from the Campanile — Logetta — Ducal Palace — Private Palaces — Casinos — Arsenal — Armoury — Strangling Machine, &c. — Doge Wedding the Adriatic — Ceremony — The Doge and his Senators — Prisons — Hospitals— Custom-House — Mint — St. Mark's Church — The Interior — Ceremony of Profession — Taking the Veil — Relics — ^Theatres — Pyramid of Men and Boys — Society, &c. — Literature - - - - - - - 250

Chapter XX

Departure from Venice — Verona — Amphitheatre— Modern Repairs — Lago di Garda — Milan — Streets — Cathedral — Royal Palace of Arts, (fee. — Arabrosian Library — Palaces — Depository of Public Records — Hospital — Lazaretto — Remarkable Echo — Amphitheatre — Villa of the Viceroy — Iron Crown — Lago Maggiore — Isola Bella — Domo d'Ossola — Bonaparte's Road across the Simplon — Gallery of Gondo — Sublime Scenery — Summit — Martigny — Lake Geneva — Geneva — Feuds —

• Public Library — Roman Remains — Calvin's House — Calvin's Grave.

Chapter XXI

Excursion to Mont Blanc — St. Martin — Sublime View — Baths of St. Gervais — Lac du Chede — Mont Buet — View from Monlels — First Glacier — Glacier du Bois — Chamouny — Disgraceful Practice — Bustle and Excitement^ — Guides — Jacques Balmat — Crues — Avalanches — Tremendous Catastrophes — Caution of Muleteers — Snow Storms — Pavilion — Red Snow — Mer de Glace — Sublime Scenery — Walk on the Glacier — Formation of Glaciers — Changes— Perilous Exploration — Source of the Arve — Fissures and Chasms — Economy of Nature — Diseases — Goitre — Cretinism ------- 272

CHAPTER XXIL

Departure from Geneva — Lake Leman or Geneva — Lausanne — House of Gibbon — Basle — Cathedral — Tomb of Erasmus — Clock-time of

Xll CONTENTS.

Basle — Grotesque Clock — Fourth of July — Strasburg — Count Nassau and Daughter — Cathedral — Mayence — Invention of Printing — Frankfort on the Maine — Lutheran Churches — Coblentz — Church of St. Castor — Splendid Prospect — Fort of Ehrenbreitstein — Deep Well — Large Cannon — Roman Castle — Baths — Floating Mills — Cologne — German Dinner — Subterranean Aqueduct — Cathedral — Church of St. Gereon — Convent — Arsenal — Manufactures .... 285

Chapter XXIII

Dusseldorf — Monument — Castle — Commerce — Entering Holland — Face of the Country— Dikes — Nimeguen — Flying Bridge — Dort — Immense Rafts — Rotterdam — Canals — Houses — Street Reflectors — Stadhouse — Churches — Erasmus — Passage on the Canal — Delft — Grotius — Monument of William I. — The Hague — Beautiful Square — Royal Palace — Palace in the Wood — Leyden — Haarlem — Immense Organ — Costly Flowers — Amsterdam — Royal Palace — Museum — East India Warehouses — Churches, &c. — Literary Institutions — Commerce — Brock — Dutch Cleanliness - - - - - 296

Chapter XXIV

Departure for London — Approach to the City — St. Paul's Cathedral — Time in Building — Cost — Exterior — Dimensions — Remarkable Floor — Bell — Clock — Model — Whispering Gallery — Floor — Paintings — Stone Lantern — Monuments — Westminster Abbey — The Tower — Locality — Entrance — Scenes of Horror — Principal Buildings — The Church— ^The White Tower — New Horse Armoury — The Crown Jewel Room — British Museum^ — Monument — Bank of England — Bridges — Tunnel — Squares — Parks — Streets — Shops — Parliament — Windsor Castle — Prince Albert and Queen Victoria — General View —Arrival in New York -......- 308

NOTES OF TRAVEL.

Chapter I

Passage across the Atlantic — Prince's Dock — Liverpool — Manchester — ■ English Steamers — Dublin— Caven — Jaunt Car of Ireland-^Belturbet — Ballyconnel — Irish Cottage — Belfast — Krum Castle — Remarkable Yew Tree — Enniskillen — Lough Erne — Castle Koon — -Londonderry — Walker's Monument — Fairs — Glasgow — Monuments of Nelson and Knox — Edinburgh — The Castle — Calton Hill — Palace of Holyrood — Dumbarton Castle — English Railroad — Road from London to Dover — Rigid Police of Custora-House in France — Calais — Diligence — Paris — Palace of the Tuileries — Palace Royal — Champ-de-Mars — Champs- Elysees — Place Vendome— Bridges — Place Concord — Hotel of Invalids — Tomb of Napoleon — Tomb of La Fayette — Cemetery — Versailles — Lyons — Banks of the Rhone — Avignon — Marseilles.

1 EMBARKED OH board the packet ship George Washington, Captain Burrows, at New York, October 7th, 1841, in connpany with a nunnber of other passengers, bound for Liverpool. We were towed out of the harbour by a steamer, and as soon as we were at sea, were favoured vi^ith a fair wind, which carried us on our course at the rate of eight or ten knots an hour. We sailed generally about 200 and 300 miles per day. During most of the passage the wind was fair, but blew strong, giving us much rough weather. The whale, grampus, black-fish, shark, and porpoise, were frequently seen in large numbers, attracting the attention and exciting the curiosity of our company, and rendering the usual monotony of a sea- voyage less irksome. As we neared

14 prince's dock LIVERPOOL MANCHESTER.

Cape Clear light-house, on the coast of Ireland, and obtained once nnore a sight of land, a general joy was diffused throughout our company of passengers. But this joy was "well-nigh being exchanged suddenly for lamentation and the peril of a watery grave. It was a very dark night ; and at about 10 o'clock, as we were entering St. George's Channel, we came very near making shipwreck on Tucker's Rock. It was a narrow escape. I happened to be in my berth at the time, and was not aware of our imminent danger ; but those of our passengers who happened to be on deck, were much alarmed. But a kind Providence carried us in safety past the dangerous object. After a favourable, but rather rough passage of seventeen days, we reached Old England, and landed in Liverpool.

Our ship entered Prince's dock. This is a large dock, of vast dimensions, running parallel with the river Mersey, and is unquestionably one of the best, if not the very best in the world. I have never seen any other equal to it in size or construction. It is capable of accommodating a large number of vessels, and has every convenience and security for lading and unlading merchandise of every description, having quays covered with sheds, affording protection to goods in all kinds of weather. The proper officers are always in attendance to take charge of the goods, and see that they are in safe hands. They have other docks in Liverpool, but of less note, and forming no comparison with Prince's.

In Liverpool the buildings are generally high, and of brick or stone. The brick is good and durable, but much paler than American brick. Lord Nelson's monument, the Cemetery, and the Zoological Garden are the most interesting objects to strangers. In the garden is a very large collection of living animals from all parts of the world, some in cages, and some running at large in a beautiful park. They have likewise a large collection of birds from the four quarters of the globe. Besides, they keep many kinds of fish in water for the inspection of the curious. An American especially will find much in this garden to attract his attention and interest his national feelings.

From Liverpool I went to Manchester by railroad, occupying one hour and fifteen minutes, the distance being thirty-two miles. The country between these cities is in the highest state of cultivation and improvement. The land is naturally rich, and is taken up with extensive gardens, containing the most luxuriant growth of every thing pertaining to the climate and soil, with orchards and well-cultivated fields; which,

ENGLISH STEAMERS DUBLIN IRISH COTTAGE. 15

with the numerous country-seats of gentlemen and the nobility interspersed in every direction, present to the eye the most beautiful and enchanting scenery.

Manchester is the great manufactory of England for drygoods. The factories are large, with high chimneys, some exceeding three hundred feet. At the time of my visit, much distress prevailed among the numerous operatives. It was said that many families, embracing some thousands of individuals, were in a state bordering on starvation from want of their accustomed employment, the manufacturers being unable to employ them, having no market for their goods. How could my thoughts avoid recurring to my own happy and plentiful shores, where labourers can always find some kind of employment, and provisions in abundance to supply their numerous and rising families !

I returned to Liverpool, and embarked on board an English steamer for Dublin in Ireland, distant by sea one hundred and thirty-seven miles. We had on board all descriptions of men, women and children, with horses, carriages, &c. The English steamers are strong, heavy vessels, with low-pressure engines, and move at the rate of about eight or ten miles an hour. They are not so liable to accident from explosions as the steamboats of our western waters, and one naturally feels more secure while on board. We landed about ten miles from the city, and proceeded by railroad.

Dublin is a large and handsome city, built of brick and stone, and is surrounded by a rich and handsome country. It contains, besides the usual objects of interest in all large cities, some monuments, the ancient parliament house, and in the vicinity is the Lord Lieutenant's park. I was in the parliament house, and had the privilege of sitting in the great chair occupied by George III. on his visit to Ireland.

From Dublin I took coach for Caven, fifty-five miles. The first part of the road lay through a rich and well-cultivated country, the latter was rather hilly, and passed over lands abounding with turf, the principal fuel of Ireland.

From Caven I went to Belturbet by a jaunt car. This is a vehicle peculiar to Ireland. It has one horse, two wheels, and carries four to six persons with the driver, and a reasonable amount of baggage. The passengers ride back to back, over the wheels, which being very low, the feet nearly reach the ground.

From Belturbet I went to Ballyconnell, six miles. These villages are built of stone, and the houses are plastered on the outside, many of them being without floors. A gentleman

1 6 BELFAST — ENNISKILLEN — LONDONDERE Y.

who owned considerable land in the vicinity, informed me that many of his tenants much preferred the naked ground to the best floor. This I much doubt. Many of the cottages in the country around are built of square lumps of earth cut out with a spade; are only about five or six feet high, and are covered with sods and grass. In these hovels, man, wife, children, cow, pigs, all live, eat and sleep together in the same apartment. Clothing and the simplest luxuries of common life are objects of little importance to these wretched beings ; to escape mere starvation being comparatively the paramount object of life. The negroes of America are better, far better provided for by their employers.

I returned to Belturbet in a car, and thence travelled to Belfast, fifty-five miles, passing through Clones, Monaghan, Armagh, Portedown, Lurgan and Lisburn. Belfast is a seaport of considerable magnitude. I visited Cave Hill, situated about two and a half miles northeast from the city, from which place I enjoyed a most beautiful view of the city, bay, and adjacent country. I was informed that Scotland had been seen from its summit. The remains of an ancient fort, now in ruins, are still visible on the top of this lofty hill. While at Belturbet I rode out five miles, and visited Krum Castle, with its park, gardens, &c. There is a yew tree near the old castle, much admired, its branches forming a regular circle of about fifty feet in diameter, and their extremities supported by numerous pillars of wood raised for that purpose. In height it is not more than about twenty feet. Its leaves resemble the spruce of America. I was informed by an old resident that he had known it for sixty years, and that he had not perceived any visible change in its appearance during that period.

On my way to Londonderry I visited Enniskillen, the seat of justice of Fermanagh, and situated on the edge of Lough Erne, a most beautiful sheet of water. It is a place of some note, having in its vicinity Castle Koon, the residence of Lord Bell more. Here is an extensive park; also an artificial lake, on which were swimming swans and a great variety of other water-fowl.

The city of Londonderry was the next object of my attention. I arrived after a pleasant ride of forty-three miles, passing through a portion of the county of Donegal. Londonderry is handsomely situated on a hill,, gradually rising on every side, and nearly surrounded by water. Lough Foyle, on the borders of which the city stands, allows vessels to come up only at high tide. It is a walled city, and was anciently a very strong place. I walked around the city

FAIRS GLASGOW MONUMENTS OF NELSON AND KNOX. 17

upon the wall, viewing the various external objects presenting themselves on every side ; but could not avoid melancholythoughts naturally arising from the contemplation of the many noted events which had occurred here connected with blood and carnage. Oh, Mars, blood-thirsty Mars, what woes, and wretchedness, and death hast thou not brought upon man, multiplying heart-broken widows, and helpless, despairing orphans 1 In the distance stood Walker's Monument, a vast pile, probably two hundred feet high, and surmounted with a handsome statue of the governor. His hand is extended, with his finger pointing to the approach of the fleet, expected in the last hour of extremity during the noted siege of Derry.

All the towns in Ireland of any note hold monthly fairs. The fairs it is next to impossible accurately to describe. Thousands of men and women are to be seen engaged in either buying or selling some commodity or other of merchandise. The women are without bonnets, wearing muslin caps in their place. The greatest profusion of horses, donkeys, cattle, sheep, hogs, turkeys, geese, ducks, chickens, and almost every thing else that can be thought of, is here exhibited. What is not sold at the regular fair of one town, is taken to that of the next for disposal. In bargaining for an article, the parties sometimes manifest so much earnestness that, one unaccustomed to their habits, would suppose they ware fast verging upon mortal combat. Yet from what I have seen of the Irish, I am constrained to believe that they are naturally a kind-hearted people.

Sailing from Londonderry to Glasgow, one hundred and sixty-one miles, we passed near the Giant's Causeway, so much noted in history. But in regard to this curiosity, and many others, so fully described by travellers, I feel disposed to say little or nothing, reserving my observations for places and objects less knowa to the general reader.

Upon entering the Firth of Clyde, the scenery is beautiful and grand beyond conception. We touched at Greenock for a few hours. From this to Glasgow, the Clyde was literally covered with vessels of various kinds, coming and going. Excepting on the Thames near London Bridge, I never witnessed so many steamers.

Glasgow is a large city, containing about two hundred thousand inhabitants. It has a black and dingy appearance, owing to the dense smoke from its numerous factories, and the burning of stone coal in the dwellings of the inhabitants. The buildings are large and generally very high, and are mostly constructed of stone» The bridges are built, some of

2*

18 EDINBURGH THE CASTLE.

stone, and others entirely of iron. The shops have a very rich appearance, and present every article in commerce and the arts which the wants and desires of man can crave. Nelson's Monument in the great park is a most splendid structure. The old and new Exchanges are good buildings of their kind. But the old Cathedral is one of the most ancient buildings in Scotland. It stands on high ground, and in the midst of a very ancient cemetery, at the upper end of High Street. It was founded by John Achaius, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1123. It is three hundred and nineteen feet long, sixty-three feet broad, and ninety feet high within the walls, and has two great square towers, on one of which a spire was built about the year 1430, making the whole height two hundred and twenty -five feet. The monument of Knox, the great reformer, in the Fir Park, stands over against the Cathedral on an elevated spot, and is a splendid work. The Botanic Garden is a pretty and interesting place, and every way worth a visit. The Washing House, as it is called, is an establishment upon a large scale, and will amply recompense the curiosity of the visiter.

From Glasgow to Edinburgh I travelled nearly fifty miles, partly by railroad and partly by coach. Some two or three miles before reaching the city, beauiiful sidewalks attract the attention, extending from the city and paved with stone.

Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, stands on the southern bank of the Frith of Forth, about two miles from the sea, near the centre of the northern boundary of the county which bears its name, and about four hundred miles from London. Its population is about one hundred and sixty thousand.

Upon entering Prince's Street, the Castle stands on the right, while rows of rich and attractive shops set off the left.

The city is built upon three elevated ridges, running east and west. The central ridge is terminated on the west by a rocky precipice, surmounted by the Castle. From the Castle the ground descends more abruptly to the palace of Holyrood which terminates this part of the city on the east. The old and new towns are separated by a deep ravine, over which are several bridges. The Castle is the most prominent object in the old town, and is to be seen for many miles.

This Castle is separated from the buildings of the street by an esplanade, about three hundred and fifty feet in length, and three hundred in breadth. The area of the rock on which the Castle stands measures about seven English acres. The

CALTON HILL DUMBARTON CASTLE. 19

rock itself is composed of basalt, is elevated three hundred and eighty-three feet above the level of the sea, and is accessible only on the eastern side, all the other sides being nearly perpendicular. This Castle is of great antiquity, and has been occupied as a fortress from the earliest limes. In 1093 it was besieged by Donald Bane, brother to King Malcolm, and in the same year Queen Margaret died within its walls. The buildings on the top of the rock are occupied as a station for soldiers. The Scottish Regalia are kept here, and strangers are shown these and other relics of antiquity, also the room where Mary, Queen of Scots, gave birth to her only son, afterv/ards King James 1. of England.