Journal of a tour to Malta, Greece, Asia Minor, Carthage, Algiers, Port Mahon, and Spain, in 1828.

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LETTER I. Malta, July l8tL 1828

Dear Sir, On the 13th of May, 1828, I received from the Greek Committee, of the city of New York, the following letter : —

" New York, 3d May, 1828.

Mr. Samuel Woodruff, — Dear Sir — The Greek Committee of this city, being in want of a person of intelligence, firmness, and decision of character, and one whose knowledge of the world would prevent his being imposed upon, to go out with the first vessel, with clothing and provisions for the Greeks, the subscribers have been charged with the duty of engaging such a person ; and you have been recommended as highly qualified for that purpose. From the information given us, we have decided in your favor ; and if you are willing to go upon the same terms as others who offer, you must be ready in the course of a fortnight or three weeks, and give us an immediate answer on the receipt of this, when you will be further advised. 1

An assistant agent will be sent out with you ; your passage paid, and you will be found, while attending to the duties required. Your passage back will also be paid, if you return direct ; but if you wish to visit any other country, one hundred, or one hundred and twenty dollars will be allowed you, and you can take your own route in returning, after the distribution of the provisions and clothing of which you are to have the charge.

We are respectfully, your most obedient,

G. Griswold, Chairman^ ) Greek Sam'l. Ackerly, Sec^ry, ) Committee.^

On the 14th, set out for New York, and arrived there on the 15th ; called on the Chairman of the (x)mmittee, and made known to him my acceptance of the trust to which I had been appointed; received the Committee's instructions for the necessary preparations for the voyage, in the brig Herald, Capt. Jere. L. Page, bound to Poros, to sail on the 25th, or as soon after as might be. I was much gratified in learning that the Rev. Mr. J. King was connected in the agency, and to sail With the same cargo. This had a material effect on my mind, in deciding the question of accepting the trust, with the offer of which the Committee had honored me. Returned from New York on the i6th ; and having made the necessary arrangements in relation to my domestic concerns, left my family on the 20th, and arrived again in New

NEW YORK. 11

York, early the next morning. On the 27th, received from the Greek Committee the following letter of instructions.

" New York, May 27th, 1828.

Gentlemen, —

The Executive Committee of the city of New York, for the relief of the Greeks, having appointed you their agents for the distribution of the provisions and clothing composing the cargo of the brig Herald, Page, master, now lying in the port of New York, herewith inclose a copy of the invoice and the bill of lading of said cargo.

You are aware that this cargo is the result of the contributions from various parts of our country, designed to relieve, as far as possible, the suffer* ings of Greece. It is the anxious desire of the Committee, that it should be distributed in the most judicious and efficient manner, for the relief of those who are in a suffering and necessitous condition. This will be the primary object of all your efforts. It is impossible for the Committee to give any very specific directions as to the best mode of its accomplishment.

The result will depend mainly upon your judgment and fidelity, on which the Committee repose themselves with entire confidence. You will, of course, avail yourselves of the advice and assistance, so far as may be in your power, of any respectable individuals who are the devoted and

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known friends of Greece. The Committee are very desirous the distribution should, as far as practicable, be made under your personal observation and control ; and they wish to apprise you, that this will probably require a considerable period of time. The Committee would suggest the great importance of your keeping a very particular account of all your proceedings, and of preserving every practical testimonial in regard to them, w^hich may tend to inspire the Greek donors with confidence in the proper application and efficiency of their character. The Committee expect to have it in their power to lay before the public a minute and satisfactory account of all your proceedings : and you will please to furnish us statements in duplicate of the appUcation of the articles composing the cargo, — designating the packages by their numbers, so far as may be practicable ; this being very desirable for the satisfaction of the donors.

The brig Herald will touch at Malta, and proceed thence to Poros and Syra, with such other ports, as your judgment, under all circumstances, shall dictate.

The Committee expect to forward one or more additional cargoes to Greece ; and if either of them should arrive while you, or either of you remain there, you are desired to assist, as far as may be practicable, in their distribution.

NEW YORK. 13

The Committee having paid freight of cargo in advance, have effected insurance on freight and cargo. Should any accident prevent dehvery of the cargo agreeably to its destination, you will please forward us (in duplicate,) protest and other needful documents to establish claim on underwriters. With this you will receive a box, containing one thousand Spanish dollars, to pay your expenses, &c. of which please render us an account on your return.

By order of the Greek Committee of New York, wishing you entire success in the discharge of the sacred trust committed to you, we are, Gentlemen, with great respect, your obedient servants,

To SaiMuel Woodruff, Esq.

Rev. Jonas King,

Jno. R. Stuyvesant, Esq."

Every thing being now in readiness to conr mence our voyage, on the morning of Wednesday, May 28th, 1828, went on board the brig, and at half past 10, A. M. weighed anchor. The Chairman, and several other gentlemen of the Commit tee, came on board, affectionately took leave, and wished us a pleasant and prosperous voyage. At half past 3, P. M. dismissed our pilot at Sandy Hook, and filled away — fair wind and fine weather.

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'2fdth. Wind and weather favourable — a good breeze — moderately sea-sick. At 5, P. M. spoke an English brig bound to N. York ; toward evening, weather thick and hazy.

30//i. Foggy ; Scotch mist ; Mother Carey's chickens. This little aquatic bird is seen, as I am informed, in all the navigable seas, though never near land, nor the middle of the oceans. How it obtained, its name, I know not : but were it destitute of that article, it might with great propriety, be denominated the Sea-swallow. In form, it resembles our Barn-swallow ; in size, a degree larger ; its plumage, a dark, muddy color, like the Chimney-swallow, with the exception of a white spot on the rump ; shape and motion of wing, similar to the swallow ; powerful, indefatigable, quick and tortuous in its flight ; web-footed, but rarely rests upon the water. How, when and where it breeds, navigators are divided in their opinions ; but perhaps nobody knows. This singular bird is most active^ and appears to enjoy itself best, in boisterous weather, and gales of wind.- Saw a whale, for the first time. Passed a sick and sleepless night, during which, copious showers.

31 5^. Moderate but fair breeze ; sea-sickness continues ; Mr. King in the same condition. At half past 10, A. M. discovered over our larboard bow the wreck of a brig ; on approaching it, found it floating, keel upwards, with a small part of the hulk above water ; so much of her stern was under water, that we were unable to read her name. Observing she had been scuttled, we considered it of no use to board her, and passed on.

June 4th. This evening, Mr. King, by request, read a chapter, made appropriate comments upon it, and closed with prayer ; — 10 o'clock at night ; on the ocean, still and solemn, 1000 miles from land, the exercises were devotional, sweet and animating. Stupid indeed, and wretched must be the condition of the man who could not enjoy such a season.

5th. Cloudy and calm ; made but little progress this day ; saw great numbers of the Nautilus, vulgularly called Portuguese men-of-war. Still, clear, pleasant evening ; reading and prayer by Mr. King.

6th. Pleasant, clear, and warm. Lat. 39'' 42'. Lon. 53^ 19' W. Now about 1000 miles to the Azores or Western Islands.

I2th. Cloudy and squally through the day ; rough sea, wet decks ; at 7, P. M- strong breeze ; took in sail ; 8 knots; slept little. Lat. 41^ 29', Lon. 33^ 28'.

I4th. At half past 7, P. M. to our great joy, made Corvo, the North-westernmost island of the Azoresreleased from a painful anxiety concerning our reckoning ; dark, showery, squally night ; now about 1100 miles from Gibraltar. These islands are situated between 25 and 32 degrees of west longitude, and between 37 and 40 north latitude,

900 miles west of Portugal, and as many east of Newfoundland ; lying almost in the mid-way between Europe and America. They are nine in number, and are named Santa Maria. St. Miguel, or St. Michael, Tercera, St. George, Graciosa, Fayal, Pico, Flores, and Corvo. They were discovered in the middle of the fifteenth century, by Joshua Vander Berg, a merchant of Bruges, in Flanders, who, in a voyage to Lisbon, was, by stress of weather, driven to these islands, which he found destitute of inhabitants, and called them the Flemish Islands. On his arrival at Lisbon, he boasted of this discovery ; on which ,the Portuguese set sail immediately, and took possession of them ; and to whom they still belong ; and were called in general the Azores, from the great number of hawks and falcons found among them. All these islands enjoy a very clear and serene sky, with a salubrious air, but are exposed to violent earthquakes, from which they have frequently suffered : and also by the inundations of surrounding waves. They are however, extremely fertile in corn, wine, and a variety of fruits ; also cattle, fowl, and fish. It is said that no poisonous or noxious animal breeds on the Azores, and that if carried thither, will expire in a few hours. St. Michael, which is the largest, being near a hundred miles in circumference, and containing about 60,000 inhabitants, was twice invaded and plundered by the

English, in the reign of queen Ehzabeth. Tercera is the most important of these islands, on account of its harbor, which is spacious and has good anchorage, but is exposed to the south-east winds. Its capital town, Angra, contains a cathedral and five churches, and is the residence of the governor of these islands, as well as of the bishop.

I5th to Idth. Fine weather, and generally fair wind ; average 7 knots.

22c?. Sunday. Stiff breeze from N. E. ; 7 knots. Saw a ship to windward, same course. Somewhat indisposed ; head-ache. P. M. wind freshens ; large swells ; 8 knots. At 3 P. M. met, hailed, and passed an hermaphrodite English brig, from the Mediterranean. Lat. 37^ 15', Lon. 9° 40\ at 6, P. M. made Cape St. Vincent, bearing E. N. E. 16 to 20 leagues distant. It is not easy to describe my emotions on the first sight of land in Europe, which I had so long and ardently desired to see. Kept on our course for the Straits of Gibraltar ; passed the cape in the night.

23J. Beautiful morning ; light but fair breeze. No land in sight this forenoon ; current into the straits about 3 knots. Saw two whales sporting and spouting water. 8 P. M. ofl^ Cadiz. Clear and charming evening ; moon s. about 10. Sounded, 40 fathoms.

24th. This morning we passed through a squadron of Spanish fishermen, most of whom arc anchored 4 or 5 leagues off Cadiz, in small craft, called feluccas, about 50 in number, rigged in a singular manner. Being now under easy sail, and the weather remarkably clear and pleasaijt, had a fine opportunity for noticing the costume, activity, and garrulity of these fishermen. A close red cap covered their heads ; a short tunic, or fisherman's frock girded about their loins, with galligaskins, and naked legs and feet ; in their persons short, thick-set and muscular ; their mustachios plentiful, bushy and squalid.

The view of these men and their craft, in the absence of all other evidence, indicated our approach to some foreign country. They appeared to be successful in their employment, frequently bringing up with their hooks, that beautiful and delicious fish, the Salmano, weighing from five to twelve pounds each ; the fins and tail a brilliant yellow, and the whole body and head of a golden hue.

At 12 o'clock the wind shifted, and came on to blow fresh from the east, directly out of the straits. Passing Cadiz, had a distant view of the tower, several churches, and other public buildings. Wind, in the evening freshens to a gale. Passed Trafalgar in the night. The place where we now are, is memorable for the naval action fought here 21st Oct. 1805, between the English fleet, commanded by Admiral Lord Nelson, on one side, and the French and Spanish combined fleets on the other, and in which Lord Nelson was slain. Although now within a few leagues of the straits, we gain little or nothing, on our direct course, being obliged to beat against a strong gale directly ahead. 10, P. M. gale increases ; some of the sails and upper rigging split and carried away ; boisterous sea ; wet decks ; heavy swell ; shipped several large seas. Little or no sleep this night.

2bth. Gale (Continues through the day, increasing in strength at night ; continue beating as yesterday, with no direct progress ahead ; in the afternoon, fore-sail carried away. Beating up for the straits, passed (N.) Trafalgar bay, and (S.) 2 or 3 miles S. W. of Cape Spartel, giving us a clear and near view of the N. W. coast of Africa, kingdom of Fez, also the S. W. coast of Europe, between Cadiz and Tariffa.

26^A. Clear sun ; gale somewhat moderated ; continue beating. About 10 this evening, suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a large French fleet, containing, as far as we could judge, in a clear night, with a full moon, about 50 vessels, consisting of armed ships, transports and merchantmen, all standing for Cadiz. About 12 at night, wind lulled, leaving heavy swells, and treating us to wet decks.

27ifA. Calm morning ; nothing to be seen of the French fleet. From 2 this morning to 3 P. M.

rather retrograded than advanced : wind then sprang up from N. E. ; our exertions in beating were renewed. Thus zigzaging from side to side, were presented fine views of the bold mountain scenery on the African, as well as European coasts. Tangier, at the distance of about five miles, appeared to great advantage, situated on a N. W. declivity of the mountain. About sun-set, the moon rose full and fair. At 8, P. M., the wind, to our great joy, sprang up from the west, and afforded a prospect of a favourable breeze to carry us through the Gut. At half past 8, discovered Tariffa light-house, bearing E. N. E. distant about 6 miles.

28^A. At half past 2, this morning, passed the Rock of Gibraltar. I regret much that it is inconsistent with the nature of the service in which we are employed, to stop at and view this great strong-hold, which has figured so much both in ancient and modern history. It must be mortifying to the rest of Europe, and particularly to Spain, that England should hold this supposed impregnable fortress, denominated, with propriety, the key of the Mediterranean. The immense advantages derived to Great Britain from the possession of this garrison, both in time of peace and war, must be obvious to every one acquainted with the state of Europe and those parts of Asia and Africa which border on the Mediterranean.

AT SEA.

^' Gibraltar, once a celebrated town and fortress of Andalusia, is at present in possession of Great Britain. Till the arrival of the Saracens in Spain, which took place in the year 711, or 712, the rock of Gibraltar went by the name of Mons Calpe, On their arrival, a fortress w^as built upon it, and it obtained the name of Gibel-Tarif^ from the name of their general, and thence Gibraltar. It was in the possession of the Spaniards and Moors by turns, till it was taken from the former by a combined fleet of English and Dutch ships, under the command of Sir George Rooke, in 1704 ; and this rather through accident than any thing else. The prince of Hesse, with 1800 men, landed on the isthmus, but an attack on that side was found to be impracticable, on account of the steepness of the rock. The fleet fired 15,000 shot without making any impression on the works, so that the fortress seems to be eqally impregnable, both to the British and Spaniards, except by famine. At last, a party of sailors, having got merry with grog, rowed close under the New Mole in their boats ; and as they saw that the garrison, who consisted oiily of 100 men, did not mind them, they were encouraged to attempt a landing ; and having mounted the mole, hoisted a red jacket as a signal of possession. This being immediately observed from the fleet, more sailors were sent out, who, in like manner, having ascended the works, got possession of a 2 battery, and soon obliged the town to surrendien After many fruitless attempts to recover it, it was confirmed to the English by the treaty ef Utrecht, in 1713.

Repeated attempts have been since made to wrest it from England, but without success : the last war hath made it more famous than ever, when it underwent a long siege against the united forces of Spain and France by land and sea, and was gallantly defended by general Elliot and his garrison, to the great loss and disgrace of the assailants ; though it must be granted, the place is by nature almost impregnable. Near 300 pieces of cannon, of different bores, and chiefly brass, which were sunk before the port in the floating batteries, have been raised and sold, to be distributed among the garrison. It is a commodious port, and formed naturally for commanding the passage of the straits, or, in other words, the entrance into the Mediterranean and Levant seas. But the road is neither safe against an enemy, nor storms ; the bay is about twenty leagues in circumference. The straits are 24 miles long, and 15 broad ; through which sets a current from the Atlantic ocean into the Mediterranean, and for the stemming of it, a brisk gale is required. The town was neither large nor beautiful, and in the last siege was totally destroyed by the enemies' bombs, but on account of its fortifications, is esteemed the key of Spain, and is always furnished with a garrison well provided for its defence. The harbor is formed by a mole, which is well fortified and planted with guns. Gibraltar is accessible on the land side only by a narrow passage between the rock and the sea, but that is walled and fortified both by art and nature, and so inclosed by high steep hills, as to be almost inaccessible that way. It has but two gates on that side, and as many toward the sea. Across this isthmus, the Spaniards have drawn a fortified line, chiefly with a view to hinder the garrison of Gibraltar from having any intercourse with the country behind them ; notwithstanding which, they carry on a clandestine trade, particularly in tobacco, of which the Spaniards are exceedingly fond. The garrison is, however, confined within very narrow limity ; and, as the ground produces scarcely any thing, all their provisions are brought them either from England or from Ceuta, on the opposite coast of Barbary. Formerly Gibraltar was entirely under military government ; but that power producing those abuses which are naturally attendant on it, the parliament thought proper to erect it into a body corporate, and the civil power is now lodged in its magistrates."

Coasted along the shore off Andalusia and Granada in Spain, 5 or 6 leagues from land. At II, A. M. discovered snow on the mountains in Granada.

- 29^/£. Sunday. Several vessels in sight, but all like ours nearly becalmed. At 4, P. M. Mr. King performed divine service, being the first Sabbath since we sailed, which afforded an opportunity for the performance of this interesting duty on board ; occasioned partly by rough weather, and partly by indisposition of Mr. King. The service and every part of the exercises were solemn and impressive. Advanced but little on our voyage this day ; now off Cape De Gatt ; Lat. 36^ 12', Lon. 2<> W. serene, soft, pleasant air, peculiar to this region.

SOth. Now about 1200 miles short of Malta. The bold, picturesque, and changing views we have yesterday and to-day had, of the mountains of Grenada, amply compensate for the tardiness of our progress. While we are experiencing the heat of a scorching sun, nearly vertical, it is pleasant to behold the glittering snow extending downward from the summit of the highest mountains about half way, and appearing to rest upon a belt of clouds suspended at that altitude. Below that region appear cities, towns, villages, watch towers and cottages, all white and beautiful, seeming to hang upon the dark declivities like the nest of the eagle.

Jufy 1st. Sail all this day in full view" of the coast of Algiers, distant 15 leagues. Health and appetite much improved. Wind lulls at evening, which is remarkably serene and pleasant ; the stars more brilliant, and the Galaxy more luminous than

AT SEA.

I ever saw while on land. Many stars in the train of the galaxy are distinctly visible, which 1 had never before seen. At 4, P. M. passed the renowned city of Algiers, that nest of pirates and robbers, and,- to the disgrace of civilized Europe, their common nuisance.

2d and 3rf. Algiers yet in view.

Atli. Independence. Serene, pleasant weather. While the people of ' our free and happy country' are celebrating the natal day of their national freedom, enjoying and abusing the good things of that favored land, we are near the middle of the Mediterranean sea, shut out from the participation with them in the festivities and exercises of the day, •* O fortunatos, nimium sua si bona norint Agricolas."

bth. In the course of the afternoon saw several large shoals of the black fish, so called, being a smaller species of the Grampus, weighing, as is said, from 20 to 25 cwt.

6th. Sunday. The wind having hauled a little more to the N. and the brig having stood N. E. 2| days, being now between 40^ and 41° N. Lat. in sight of, and near the island of Sardinia, tacked ship, and stood S. S. E. toward the coast of Africa, with a light breeze.

This is the 9th day since we entered the Mediterranean, at which time, from our then favorable prospects, w^e confidently expected to have reach- 2* ed Malta before this time. But disappointments attend us in all conditions of life, both by land and sea ; and, as I believe, generally, if not invariably, for our real and ultimate advantage. Our present prospect is unfavorable to our arrival at that island within a w^eek from this time. It is now^ 39 days since we sailed from New York. The E. S. E. wind, which so long, at this season, prevails here, comes off from Egypt, and the desert of Lybia, is called the Sirocco, and always attended with an unpleasant sensation of languor, dull head-ache and drowsiness, so uncomfortable in a long sea- voyage. A fine dust is observable in the atmosphere, which affects the eyes. Divine^ service by Mr. King. I am now prepared to say of this pious and faithful servant of Christ, that he well deserves that high estimation in which he stands, both in the Old and New World. At 12 o'clock, Lat. 40° 25', E. Lon. 6"^ 45' ; difference of time between this and New York, 5 hours 30 minutes.

Ith. Clear and very warm morning : Sirocco again at 10, A. M. but soon settles away into a dead calm. Several of the sailors plunged into the sea to swim and bathe. In the evening attended prayer, in accordance with the monthly concert. Mr. King performed the service with his usual ability ; he also gave us an interesting account of the com mencement and progress of that excellent institution in France by the Protestants, while he was at

Paris. The first meeting was composed of himself, one other American, and a Protestant Frenchman, in an obscure upper chamber. It is now attended by vast numbers, even in France.

Kth. Saw two white whales pass the brig ; this day in Lat. 37° 47', Lon. 8° 42' E. a mourning dove perched upon our stern, and after resting 10 or 15 minutes, took her flight, in a direction toward the African coast, distant about 70 miles. Though I regretted she made us so short a visit, I wished her a prosperous voyage. The length of time we have been on the Mediterranf^an, and the Sirocco and calms we have experienced, begin to render our voyage somewhat irksome. We have yet before us a voyage of considerable length. In addition to this, we still remain in profound ignorance of the state of affairs in Greece, and whether our destination will be Poros, Egina or Syra. We expect, however, at Malta to obtain information which may decide that question, and also whether we proceed from thence with or without convoy. \Qth. Passed the island of Galita, Lat. 37° 30', E. Lon. 9° 15', in fair view, distant about four leagues ; P. M. saw the African shore for a long stretch, S. E. off Galita. Breeze and current 3 to 5 knots ; fast approaching Cape Bon, which we have long and anxiously looked out for. Prospect of seeing Malta by the end of the week brightens. 11^//. Serene and very warm. On sounding,

2S JOURNAL OF A TOUR, &C.

found 55 fathoms, and again, 30. At half past 10, A. M., made Cape Guardia, S. S. E. distant 3 leagues, and about 2 leagues N. W. of Cape Carthage. 12 o'clock off the bay of Tunis ; island of Zembra, a naked rock, standing near the east entrance of the bay, in plain view ; 4 or five miles beyond which, we discover Cape Bon. At 5, P. M., with a fair but gentle breeze, passed Cape Bon ; now about 180 miles to Malta. At 7, P. M . spoke a French frigate, standing S. S. W. : to our question, " where bound ?" the answer was, " cruizing." 8, P. M., made the island Pantellaria. Clear night, with a fresh breeze, N. N. E. ; Lat. by observation, 37° 30', Lon. 10° 12' E.

IWi. At 8, A. M. Pantellaria bore S. E. 2 leagues distant. This interesting island deserves particular notice in the journal of a voyager.

It is situated Lat. 36° 48', Lon. 11° 58' E. and belongs to Sicily : 30 miles in circumference; volcanic: — products, wine, finest raisins, and other fruits, among the cheapest and best fruits in the Mediterranean. Population estimated at 4,600 ; language and dress a mixture of Italian and Arabic. Land high, and in clear weather may be seen from the deck of a ship 15 leagues. Within the summit is a great natural curiosity, a lake, 4 miles inland, the remains of a crater,) of an unfathomable depth of water. The town and castle at the head of a cove, on the S. W. side of the island. Here stands a huge church, several chapels, and a Capuchin establishment, all which are plainly seen from our deck, about 5 miles distant. P. M. upon a nearer view (N. E.) of this island, several handsome villages appear more plainly. The ascending roads, hedges, and vineyards are distinctly visible.

I3th, Sunday, Early this morning, hopes were entertained of seeing the long looked for island of Malta before night ; but at 10 A. M. breeze dies away, and leaves us for the remainder of the day in a dead calm ; heat of the sun extremely oppressive. Mr. King performed divine service. It deserves particular notice, that the performance of this duty has a powerful influence in the preservation and promotion of sobriety and good order among all on board.

I4th. About 9, A. M. a gentle breeze, from S. S W. ; 4 knots, A ship of war, supposed of the U. S. standing west, passed about 2 miles distant. At half past 2, P. M. had the great satisfaction to make Malta, over our larboard bow, 25 or 30 miles distant. This day passed by Rome, and part of the island of Sicily ; the latter in sight.

I5th. Malta yet in sight, but no nearer than at sun-set last evening. About 12 o'clock a breeze sprang up, and afforded us the satisfaction of approaching Malta in a fine, pleasant afternoon. At 4, P.M., towers, churches, fortifications, vineyards, &c. &c. appeared, presenting a most animating view of this far-famed island. At 6 P. M, passed St. Paul's harbor, near the shore ; the wind had lulled, and the calm afforded a fine opportunity for viewing that memorable place, where the Apostle was shipwrecked ; Acts, xxvii.