Narrative of the town of Machias, the old and the new, the early and late

Preface

Among scraps of paper, small in size, much worn and difficult to read, not so much in lack of penmanship as orthography, one becomes tangled in thought, at proof of the changes in motive, method, expression of thought and results ; the work of our ancestors dating back less than two centuries; if regarded in the unfolding of progress so clearly manifest in a people of our own race and language, what must appear in the mental vision of others whose research is associated with man and his work in the earlier centuries of the human race? The bits of paper, as they lay dumped in drawers and boxes, so carefully folded, so securely tied with strings of linen or hemp (no cotton in use then) so plainly labeled, in the "Town office of Machias," done by hands committed to mother Earth years before the American Revolution, leads the searcher to think those men and women realized they had responsible duties: they left their duties well performed.

The following selected from several hundred folded and labeled papers, some of these not over three by one, one half inches in size, bearing date of birth, baptism, marriage and death, in some instances with unique requests of personal sentiment, and direction as t<> what has been dune, what is expected to have others do form subjects of mental activity and awakening.

The pioneers of Machias believed in Destiny: they had faith in vitality and hail gladness in the thought of selfdenial and suffering; the nun and women of this unreclaimed region oould and would send forth the vitalizing forces

PREFACE.

that make the way, under the influence and protecting care of the Great Ruler, the nobler type of manhood; transforming the wilderness into gardens, and the rocks into ornaments for homes and surroundings.

In the days when only the way of travel was by boat or vessel, with the attending dangers and frequent disasters; with the scattered dwellings by the shores of the sea, or in some distant river-side, shut apart by dense wilds and unbriged streams, how many prayers went up ; how many times in all the dark-seven-years of Revolution, was the Father of all supplicated by mothers, which but for this unceasing Faith, would Hope have perished, voices failed, hearts ceased to beat? "It is not I, but the Love of Liberty in me."

Ilnfcer.

I- M.K

The First Sixteen 12

First ' ' Lord's Supper" 25

Old Burnham Taveru 33

Battle of the Margaret! a 43

Repulse of British, 1777 55

John O'Brien 81

Incorporation of Machias 8fi

John G. and wife, son of James Avery 5)1

First V T ote for President 160

Memorial Bridge, East Machias 184

Cephas Longfellow 191

The Churches 193

Phineas Bruce House 222

Educational — Schools 224

Introductory

The pioneers of Machias have been recognized in their first houses of logs when no boards and few nails were available; — in their rough homes were courageous souls who believed they had a future. In the years of struggle to gain a f othold, they bade welcome to new comers, each addition imparting strength and renewed hcpe, — so that when the day of the log house had passed, when houses made of sawed timbers and boards, when they could afford hinges and latches for their doors, and no longer had to lift water from brooks and springs, when t lie well, the long pole and the pump were the midway conveniences, they forgot not the provident Hand, nor were their sympathies circumscribed, or their charitable souls less meridian and aglow.

After nearly the century and half since the ax felle 1 the first trees and the spade cast earth on the first roadway, their successors, who enjoy the fruits of their toil in comfortable homes intersected by turnpikes and rails, their abodes reflecting the lightning of the clouds; with water poured to sinks and chambers, let it not be said that the elements of character building have been dwarfed or the nobilitv of welcome and charity in any degree eliminated.

The local environments and experiences which their lives furnished weakened and subdued excessive tendencies, secured only in luxurious living. The early settlers attained the normal balance. Without becoming dominated by desires, they prudently governed themselves. This rational status of mental and physical discipline was transmitted : their children and grandchildren manifested its f.\ I'KonUCTORY.

softened and goodly influence in later days. Their homes, if without display, were comfortable ; their clothing if not of best fabric was sufficient and ample to protect the body. Educational advancement if not swift was by no means neglected. Religious life was early made essential and prominent. Their heredity if not entirely free from sin was and is such as shows the better principles of domestic life, prudence and progress.

"Here, where they lived, all holy thoughts revive, Of patient Striving and of Faith held fast; Here, where they died their hurried records live, Silent they speak from out the sacred past."

Our acknowledgments are due Senator Eugene Hale; to Assistant Secretary of State Hon. Alvey A. Adee Washingion. D. C. ; Frederic Tuckerman, Esq., Amherst, Mass. lion. Geo. F. Talbot. Portland; Miss Annette O'B. Walker, same city. Rev. H. F. Harding and Mrs. Harding Machias ami other appreciated helpers.

We dedicate this book to the sons and daughters of the earlier and later Machias, citizens and residents by nativity or adoption, descendants of past or present dwellers wherever domiciled, trusting that this work may be helpful in keeping the worthy deeds and meritorious achievements of the fathers and mothers in memory through Municipal, Educational and Adminis'trational struggles and strifes to later generations.

THE AUTHOR.

FIRST SETTLEMENT.

THERE is no satisfactory record or evidence of discovery and settlement of Machias or vicinity prior to L605. De Montz, the French Explorer, left the first tangible proof of tli" discovery of Machias River. There is scarcely room for doubt that some of DeMontz sailor adventurers and associates visited this section as early as 1605-'06, and left written record of having made a Trading Post, on what has for many years been known as Clark's Point in the town of Machiasport. Home one of the company, it' not DeMontz himself, made an outline map of the coast west from and including Quoddy Head. Cross Island and a "peninsular" in later years known as (Mark's Point.

DeMontz on his exploring expedition in 1604 discovered the river known by the Indian name of Schodio, Later St. Croix. Ii was in October that he entered the River. Be and his men Beemed to like the place ami lingered well into November, when, tradition tells ns. there came a cold nighl creating so much ice that Capt. DeMontz found his vessel fast in the solid. Continued cold weather made more ice and the explorer, contrary to his plans, was obliged to | the winter on DeMontz or Dochet Island. They found wood for fuel in abundance and between vessel and camp on the Island, which he caused his men to build, they passed the season in a fair measure of comfort. In the spring of

1605 DeMontz with a part of his crew returned to France telling a dozen or so of his men, whom he left on the Island, that he should return again the following autumn. The men on the Island not liking so circumscribed-limits set at work, and out of such trees and material as they found, constructed a barge or kind of boat, which enabled them to reach the main of either shore of the Bay.

DeMontz, if not in the fall, sometime within a year did return, if not in the same vessel in some vessel, with a larger force of men and marines, and better provisioned and equipped having no doubt farther exploration in mind. In

1606 by drawings of maps and other record which he left, he commenced sailing westerly along the coast from Schodic Bay. "Quoddy Head" is the first mentioned place: thence to an Island westerly "six leagues", on which a landing was effected ;a cross built and taken possession of in the name of Henry Fourth, the King of France. Later a peninsula, known to early and later English settlers as Clark's Point in Machiasport and near the mouth of the river, was fixed upon by some portion of DeMonts' men ; a camp or sort of Trading Post for traffic with the Indians was made, and half a dozen men left there for a short time.

From evidence by letters sent home by DeMontz to Henry IV there can be but limited doubt, that between the years 1606 and 1620 the entire coast of Mayne so far west as Penobscot or Majorbijaduce (Castine), was explored and, so far as any title could be given, became French possessions under the name of Acadia.

It was about this time, that a few French families were located at or near the head of South West Harbor, Mt Dasart being the first known Europeans and until 1760, for nearly a century disputes were involved and intermitent and alternating possession by French and English contending forces ; when as Williamson in his History of Maine says: — "The

FIRST SKTTLF.MENT.

cessation of active hostilities between the two Governments, at the close of 1760, as well as the strong disposition at the time manifested by the Eastern Indian tribes, to agree to and maintain a Treaty of perpetual Peace and Amity, which to this day has never been disturbed, were events of vital importance in the settlement of the eastern part of the Province of Maine, and gave a new and favorable impulse to every species of enterprise and improvement, which so essentially concern a rising community."

One writer states that the entire while population of the Province of Maine did not exceed 17,000 at this period, and no permanent settlement had been made eastward of and including Castine. owing to the wars between the New England Colonists and the numerous Indian tribes aided and assisted by the French. The desolation arising from the contending factions spread disaster and distress over the coast line for more than a century, and with the cessation French control ceased, not again to be renewed.

There are writers who claim that certain marks or races of civilization, such as the Picture Rocks at Machiasport and "Norse Pond" at Cutler, indicate settlers on this coast as early as the eleventh century, and express opinion that Norse Pond especially, denotes great antiquity and can be no different than work of the Northmen on this side of the Atlantic about the same time that they overrun France and England.

At best it must remain conjecture by whose hands the "Stone Dam", that made Norse Pond, was buili or the slate when built. It is not known how large an immigration of French followed DeMontz in his exploring expeditions on this coast. There were no doubl a larger number of French Settlements and a larger number of resident families

L606 tolf>! ! than we have any r. cord <,f. Sup] OS6 the French si ttle s on the coast near ( 'id lei- 1 mi It the dam it must have been nearly three linn Ire I years ago; hence ample time for large trees to grow on top of the d; in ami time's effacing hand would do very much in three centuries, to dim the

work of man. It seems quite probable that Norse Pond is the product of French labor ; for what purpose remains a mystery. Marks of the "Cross" made by DeMontz on Cross Island are quite distinct and when discovered first by Colonists about 1772- '74, the work was attributed to Indians and little thought given it, until revelation of DeMontz voyages were given out by historical research

When the Pioneers of Machias from Scarboro, in May 1763 domiciled on Machias soil, and until the Declaration of Independence in 1776, they had supposed they were under the French flag, and the doubt was not wholly removed until the surrender of Cornwallis, at the close of the Revolution.

Shortly after the settlement at Cape Cod, Richard Vines, Isaac Allerton and associates purchased of the Plymouth Council the right to trade with the Indians on the Maine coast. In pursuance of this plan in 1633 Vines equipped some small vessels of which he assumed command and entered on a "trading voyage to the Eastward." It will be borne in mind that the entire country from Cape Sable to Cape Cod was claimed by the French and La Tour who had succeeded DeMontz as Governor, was in his vessels almost continuously on the watch, to prevent English inteference or trade, issuing a declaration that he would make prisoners of all English and prizes of all vessels found trading or fishing "East of Pemaquid." Vines, however, appeared determined not to be thwarted in his designs and resolved to penetrate the coast until cheoked by a superior power.

During the Summer of 1633 La Tour and Vines cam« in contact at an Eastern point, probably Passamaquoddy. A sharp controversy resulted as to respective claims and quick ened by what he considered abusive language used by the Englishmen towards him, he seized some of them as prisoners. They were shortly surrendered on the especial pleading of Vines and La Tour had given them "grave and goodly counsel. " Fraternal relations were resumed and LaTour exchanged with Vines valuable furs and other articles receiving groceries and commodities of which he stood in need. La Tour finally gave Vines permission to trade off the balance of his goods and return to Cape Cod, provided he

FIRST SETTLEMENT.

would iu>t build or fortify within the limits of La 'Four's olaim of coast, viz: — East "of Pemaquid^" In thisway they parted on Friendly terms, but Vines persumably unwilling to abandon every prospect of gain, and calculating on La Tour's lenity at the recent meeting, concluded that the latter would not disturb him, proceeded at once to Machias river, where he established a Trading camp and left it in charge of five men. with two small cannon and a vessel of light tonnage t i defe i 1 it. To obi dn tra le this po3t was liberally supplied with a variety of merchandize, suitable for gaining trade with Indians Including much wine and

"st rong water. "

In a few days La Tour anchored a part of his fleet near the place. One of Vines' men ventured on hoard and while he and Vines were in social chat several of Vines' salilors went on shore. As they ueare I the camp, the four men in charge manifested alarm and attempted to lire their guns. The guns were not discharged, and La Tours' men not under iding this demonstration of hostility on the part of the Englishmen, with whom they so recently had been on friendly terms, at once retreated and in doing so one of their muskets was discharged — La Tour stated afterwards accidentally and killed two of Vines men in the camp. La Tour Immediately went ashore and by examining the goods in store he found, as lie alleged, many which had been stolen from his fort on the St John river, by some Scotchmen. Consequently he seized all the goods and Vines' vessel, made the men prisoners, and sent all to France for confiscation! News of the disaster reached Cape Cod in November. The following Spring Vines and Allertonsent a vessel to St John, and demanded of LaTour restoration of the goods and vessel

he had seized. This lie stout ly declined. On being asked

to show his authority and commission for what he had done.

disdainfully replied that "My SWOrdis my commission, sufficient to overcome and when this failed it would he time

enough to show authority. "

About ten years later La Tour was obliged to promise

recompense for the goods and vessel he had taken.

During the lapse of these few years another would be French possesser of the coast a ppeared in D'Aulney, who claimed to be Governor and to have prior if not superior authority over the entire French claim by virtue of Commission from the King of France. Under this he established head quarters at Castine, where he built a Fort same as La Tour had done at St. John.

For several years appearances indicate much time devoted to factions and frequent war like opposition to one another, without interfering or molesting British operations or English traders along the Maine Coast. The feeling of rivalry between the two French explorers led both to court favors from the Governments of Massachusetts and Plymouth, so that means and resources were made available to secure men and money to distroy each other. It seems that La Tour visited Boston in 1644 with special purpose of securing assistance against D'Aulney. During this visit he was first obliged by the government to make answer to the charge of seizing the property of Vines and killing two Englishmen in the year previous; the entire matter was carefully investigated by the Governor and Court of Assistants. His defense consisted principally in alleging that some of the goods he found at Machias had been stolen from him ; that the English sailors were drunk at the time his men went on shore to see them ; that the two men were killed by the accidental descharge of one of the guns in his mens hands. The explanations were satisfactory- and on his pledge to reimburse Vines for the loss, La Tour was acquitted.

It has been quite difficult to fix the location of the Vines Trading Post. One writer in peculiarly indefinite way located it on an 'Eligible sight above Cross Island on West bank of the river". There is no record of this and tradition fails to lend support; neither is there record or maps yet found to clearly establish the spot of land where it existed. Persons who have within fifty years past given time and thought to the question, taking into consideration the natural or geographical location of the river, bay and islands in the harbor, in conjunction with traditions of earliest

FIRST SETTLEMENT. i

settlers, and unmistakable evidence of frequent Indian occupancy of the shores, it might have been near the wharves at Machiasport or on the hill where the Congregational church stands, but with the stronger probability on Clark's Point, where forty years ago traces of the celebrated "picture rocks" or Indian hyerogliphics were plainly visible and not altogether obliterated at this time. Clark's Point had preference over any site mentioned or suggested, on account of being easily accessible by water, more cheaply and securely defended from land or water attacks ; besides both English and French explorers and commanders did not retain confidence in Indian professions and promises to the extent of causing them to locate far up the river or but short distance inland from the shore, relying on boats and vessels in which to escape in case of sudden attack.

The late Charles Gates, of Machiasport, who died an octogenarian many years ago, once said to the author, : — "I have heard my mother say that when a girl, 1785 '90, I counted over one hundred birch canoes drawn up on the beach and shore opposite Machiasport, while the Indians were in Camp Fires, phullabaloos and dances, in the forest growth and wood-lands on the East side and towards Holmes' Bay."

One historian relates and stories passed down the line give credence to his statement that, "Machias River, when first inhabited by white settlers was, and ;:ppeared to have been a long time back, a place of Rendezvous by the various tribes of Red men, who came in September of every year, from the East as far as St. John, and from the West as far as Penobscot, to associate in war dances and campfires. In-eorroboration of this, consider the numerous heaps of clam shells at Looks Point in Jonesboro, the Indian implements found there in the last hundred years ; the shell heaps on the shores of main and islands on Machias water, nol

omitting the greatest heap of all, the head of Western inlet

of Holmes' Hay only two miles from the Kast shore of Machiasport, where on toj. of the heap is a sprnce tree, two feet in diameter, with wide spread branches and roots penetrating and deriving strength of growth from the shells?

W. Bartlett Smith in his book of 1 863,— "The Centennial of Machias, " says : "It will be seen that Maohias hai a local habitation and a name in history as early as 1633 only thirteen years after the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth — 230 years ago — that it was a place well known at that time to adventurers on this coast, and was then the scene of violence and bloodshed occasioned more or less by the still unextinguished hatred, which for many centuries had existed between England and France."

It seems probable that in 1644 the French made an unsuccessful attempt to make a settlement on Machias river. At the time or a few years later there were prehaps a half dozen French families here.

In 1688 a census or an "account" was taken of the inhabitants scattered on the main shore and islands between Schoodic River and Castine inclusive by Governor Andros.

There were reported as living at Machias ' 'Martel : John Breeton, wife and child of Jersey ; Lattre, wife and three children. The same year there were "accounted for" only forty-five Europeans between Schoodic and Penobscot, nine of these at Machias. According to Colonial history all these persons were captured by the celebrated Captain Church in one of his "expeditions to the eastward" against French and Indians and carried off, their settlements and homes laid waste.

Machias river has the credit of having been visited in July, 1734 by Governor Belcher. He also visited other places between Quoddy and Castine, intending to negotiate with the settlers to ascertain their condition and wants. Rev. Mr. Prince, Pastor of the Old South Church, Boston, accompanied the Governor; also Edward Winslow, Sheriff of Suffolk County, and other prominent men of Boston. They passed one Sabbath in the Harbor but they found no inhabitants, nor evidence of settlement.

The whole section of country, Penobscot to Schoodic seemed to demand attention ; the visit of Governor Belcher no doubt contributing to arouse desire to know more of

FIRST SKTTLEMENT. V

this section of the Province of Maine, and efforts were put forth to encourage settlers

In 1753 the Governor of the State recommended the a]i j (ointment of a Tribunal, for the pacification of Land Titles and the adoption of some measure that should prove efficient in drawing attention and inducing immigration.

Quite soon one Florentius Vassal, a resident of the island of Jamaica, offered., if the Government would transfer tin- Territory between Penobscot and Quoddy to him and his associates, they would settle there within a specified time, such number of inhabitants as would form an effective barrier to the inroads of the French and operate as a check on the various tribes of Indians. The Legislature or General Court assured Vassal that, if he would by 1758 obtain his majesty's approbation, introduce five thousand settlers, proportionate number of Protestant ministers, and pacify the Indians in their claims, the immigrants should have all the land they should choose to occupy, and all the Islands within three miles of the coast. In a few years after Vassal's talk at or near the close of the old French war, another proposition was made to Massachusetts, by the Earl of Catherbough and Francis Vassal, to settle the lands twelve miles in width on each side of Machias river, extending up the river from its mouth fifty miles, with six hundred Protestant families to number at least three thousand souls. These propositions did not materialize, as there is no evidence of any move to inaugurate emigration from any Colony oi county ami the schemes fell through.

King George about this time authorized the General Court to grant without money and without price, any Lands which might be selected from the royal domain to those soldiers, who had then Served in the French and Indian war: a Captain to receive three thousand acres, a subaltern

two thousand and a private fifty acres. This provision en^ oouraged by the King probably operated as a reason, why the

projects of CatherOOUgh and Vassal fell through.

The comparatively few inhabitants were West of the IVnohscnt mostly near the lower shore and mouth of the

Kennebec river, old Scarborough and York. The risk of life and property was too great for settlers owing to the devastation caused by the conflict between New England Colonists and the Eastern tribes and French. It seemed to be the pleasure of Divine Providence that other trials should await them aside from those of Indian warfare.

The year 17(51 was one of unprecedented drouth, causing scarcity in food supply in all that part of Maine west of Kennebec river. This climatic misfortune was succeded by a fearful sickness visiting and decimating numerous families, which contributed to the calamities of that precarious year. One early writer says of it — "The freshness and bloom common to June of other years, were shrouded in the habiliments of premature decay ; and the husbandman in view of his withering fields had a sufficient reason for a deepening despondency of his hopes. These severe calamities were followed by devouring fires which did immense damage. The tires burst from the forests of New Hampshire, early in July of 1761. and burning with irresistable fury passed through Lebanon, being driven by the wind to the eastward entered Scarborough, Grorham and other Maine towns, ravaging the neighboring forests, until checked by a rain-fall, the 19th and 20th of August."

"The year 1762 was no less distinguished with its decessor for extraordinary drouth and terrible fires. Early in the year six dwelling houses, two saw mills, and several barns were burned in Scarborough: Six families were burnt out in North Yarmouth; in every direction extensive fields were destroyed by the flames and laid open by the destruction of fences. Even the cattle did not escape the consuming fires. A prodigious quantity of the most valuable forest timber was also destroyed, and so much were the crops cut short that greater supplies than usual were necessarily imported for the peoples' support,"

The existence of extensive marshes on the rivers lying eastward of the Penobscot were well known previous to the seasons of drouth, and they had often been visited by residents of western Maine , as necessity required for cutting ill i ill LEM1 NT. 11

grass growing on their borders ; therefore during the years 176] '62 many excursions were made to the Eastward to obtain hay, for the support oi cattle the ensuing winters.

It was mainly Fur this purpose that early in the autumn of 1762, Isaiah Poster, Esaac Larrabee and others, \\ 1 ■ aames are unknown all belonging to the settlement oi Black Point in Scarborough embarked on board of a large whale boat , on a oruis rd ; besides th< principal

object of | i curing hay another object, also, was to ex] lore tin 1 places they visited for the | urpose of setting up a lumbering establishment. Tin' 1 ore alluded to had destroyed a great portion of the ) ine lands in the vicinity of Scarboro; and being in the habit of lumbering more or less every year, they were not disposed to overlook the advantages which a new country might afford for this industry.

The party who started from Scarborough set sail to the Eastward and after exploring the coast at different joints th arrived at Machias, where they found extensive t icts of salt marsh lands covered with, to them, invaluable iss, which had never been penetrated by the mowers' the, and which, became doubly valuable to them from its scarcity in the homes they had left. They were also quick in discovering and estimating the value of the pine wilderness, and untouched f< rests of timber on the brink of a water power of almost unlimited capacity never yet utilized at the head of navigable tide waters.

"What more could our enterprising voyagers desire? Was it sur] rising that their hearts should he light and joy- That tiny did return to their Scarborough fields animated by visions of future success and prosperity, which naturally occupied their minds when comparing the devastations around home, with these new regions of superior

water power. Interminable forestsof wood growth and extensive marsh < s i I

On their return the story of their Machias voyage, and of the discoveries they had made were soon told-, and it may well be imagined, that under the pressure of many misfortunes which had befallen them, not a few of the inhabitants, who had ^suffered by the late extraordinary succession of" calamities, listened with eagerness to accounts of a more favorable location — of a spot where the lumberman and the husbandman could find and appropriate resources of wealth so abundant.

An association of "Sixteen persons" was accordingly formed during the winter of 1763, for the purpose of building a double saw mill at Machias, to be owned in as many shares — and it was decided to commence operations the ensuing spring.

Smiths' Centennial records the names of the Associates in this undertaking, to commence the first English settlement at Machias as follows :

Samuel Scott ) Brothers .

Sylvanus Scott, \

Timothy Libby,

George Libby, [ Brothers.

David Libby, J

Solomon Stone, ) Brothers> J oil 11 Stone, \

Isaiah Foster, Westrook Berry, Isaac Larrabee, Daniel Fogg.

The above thirteen were all residents of Scarborough and all lived at a District in the town known as Black Point. The remaining three were :