Tent and harem: notes of an oriental trip

Front matter

I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, i

| UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, t

TENT AND HAREM:

Chapter I

Arrival at Constantinople — Salute — Bird's-eye View of Stamboul and its Environs — Landing — Condition of the Streets — English Hotel- Removal to the Hotel of Madame * * * * — View from it — Captain L * * * * — Sultan going to Mosque, 1

CHAPTER H.

Turkish fondness for fine Scenery — Dogs — Streets of Pera, etc., . 12

Chapter III

Dress of the Turkish Men — Description of .the Houses, Palaces, etc. — Turkish Women — Their Amusements — Children, ... 17

CHAPTER IY.

The Sweet Waters— Situation — Mode of access — Fetes — The Sultan — His Body-guard — Gay appearance tof the Multitude, and its passiveness — Appearance of Turks in the Cafes — Occasional Mendicants — Manners and Customs of Franks — Mode of going to Parties — Alarm of Fire, . . . ' 23 vi

CONTENTS.

Chapter V

House and Garden at Therapia — Visits to Stamboul — Kaiks — Excursions on the Bosphorus — The Castles, Palaces, and Tillages that line its Shores— Bebec— The Missionaries — Schools, etc., . . • . 32

Chapter VI

Bazaars — Description of the Buildings— Streets of Stamboul — Objects to be seen there — Jewish Guides in the Bazaars — Deception and Disappointment — Various Departments of the Bazaar, . . 39

Chapter VII

Visit to Broussa — Oriental Life on board a Turkish Steamer — Hotel at Gimlec — Dinner a la Turque — Ride to Broussa — Character of the Country and Travellers — Approach to Broussa — Missionaries — Visit to a Harem — Adventures on our return — Politeness of the Turks — A Night on board the Boat, 46

Chapter VIII

A Wedding at the Palace of the Grand Vizier — Splendor of the Guests and of the Bride — General Character of the Festivity, etc., . 60

Chapter IX

Rigid observance of the Turkish East — Eeast of Bairam — Processions — Sultan — Ceremony of Baise-Pied, 68

Chapter X

Fishermen's Huts in the Bosphorus — Storms in the Black Sea — Crowds of Vessels in Harbor — The Greek Girls of Therapia — An Incident —The Croats and Gardeners, 74

CHAPTER XL

An Armenian Wedding — Reception — Description of the Room and Guests— The Bride— Wedding Ceremony, etc., . . .79

CHAPTER XH.

Trip to Alexandria — Thence to Cairo — The Desert — Pyramids— Minarets

CONTENTS, Vii

—Egyptian Women with Jars — Landing — Carriages— Eunners — Hotel — Prospect from it — Ophthalmia — Children — Rain — Drive to Shoubra — Heliopolis— Obelisk — Holy Family, etc. — The Tombs of the Memlooks and Caliphs— The new Mosque— View from the

Citadel — Bazaars — Departure, 86

CHAPTER XIII.

Trip to the Second Cataract — Character of the Boat and its Occupants — Servants — Dragoman — Crew — Pleasures of an Expedition on the Nile, . 94

CHAPTER XIV.

, Wadee Halfeh — Rock of Abooseer — Cataract — Burckhardt' s Account of it — Temples of Aboo-Simbel — Evening — Scenery — Manner of passing our Evenings — Visit from a Sheikh — An Uncomfortable Wind — Nubians — Spinning and Weaving — Dress of Men and Women — Plies — Crocodiles, 103

CHAPTER XV.

Excavations — Castle of Ibrim — View from it — Character of the Ruins — Taxes of the Nubians — Extracts from Burckhardt — Derr — Visit from and to the Governor — A Bird — The Village — Palms — Temple — Women — A Commotion — Character of the Nubians by Burckhardt — Charms of Nubia — Scenery below Derr, .... 115

CHAPTER XVI.

Temple of Amada — Korosko — Another Visit from the Governor — Breakfast — Adverse Wind — Our Ostrich — An Incident — Dakkah — Character of the Sculptures — Dance of the Natives — Gerf Hoseyn — Lawless Men— Imitation — A Scorpion — Remedy for the Bite, 123

CHAPTER XVII.

Dendoor — Kalabsha — Description of the Ruin by Burckhardt — " House of the Saint " — Beauty of Scenery — Tafa — Inhabitants — Lively Wei come — Backsheesh — A Beautiful Child— Ophthalmia — The Temple3 — -jFine Evening and Scenery, 131 viii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIu.

Death of our Ostrich — Its Peculiarities — An Incident in a Nubian Village — a Dance — Habits of the Crew at Evening — Monotonous Sounds — Philse — Descent of the Cataract— Another Visit from the Governor of Derr — Governor of Assuan — Quarries at Assuan — An Incident in our Boat, ........ 140

i

CHAPTER XIX.

Temple of Kom Ombo — Change in the Face of the Country — Quarries of Gebel Silseleh — Disappointment— Edfoo — Temples — Ride to Eilethyas — Character of the Desert — Temples and Tombs— Esne — Bread — Temple — A Chameleon — Another Ostrich — Temple of Arment— Arrival at Luxor, ......... 153

CHAPTER XX.

Our abode at Thebes — Bird's-eye View of its Environs — Visit to the Tombs of the Kings — Belzoni's Tomb — Tomb of Remeses the Great —No. II., Harper's or Brace's Tomb — Tombs of Priests and Private Persons — Interesting Sculptures, 163

CHAPTER XXL

Return to our Boat — Plies — Mosquitoes — El Karnak — Coffee from the Harem — Invitation to Dine — Dilemma — Kiamel's Hesitation — Reason — Preparations for a Visit — Cavalcade — Mud Palace — The Interior — Its Inmates — Reception — Amiable Hostess — Her Solitude and imagination — Our Speculations and Surprise — A Dinner a la Turque — Manner of Bathing the Hands — Birds — Our Departure — The Porter, 171

CHAPTER XXII.

An Exhibition of Throwing the Djerrid — Fine Horses and Riders — Their Dexterity — Alexander — Achmed — Dress of the Arab Horsemen— Another Story of a Mud Palace— Extraordinary Paper, . . 186

CHAPTER XXIII.

Departure from Thebes— A Sorry Party— Denderah— Donkey-Ride— Temple— Cleopatra — Dungeons and Bats — Absence of Fear — The Egyptian Face— Old Serour— Comic Talents of some of our Crew—

CONTENTS.

Abydos — Osioot — An Excursion to the Mountains — Tombs and Mumrnies — Unfortunate Rais, 192

CHAPTER XXIY.

Preparations for a Thunder-Shower — Rain — Wind Changes — Sail Set — Get aground — Trying Night for the Sailors — Tempest of Sand — Illusive Appearances on Shore — Discouragement — A Council — Agreeable Decision — Ride to Dayr e' Nakhl — Solicitations of the Crew for Future Employment — Tombs Interesting — Representation of the Removal of a Colossal Statue — Fine Yiew from the Mountain — Antinoe — Copt Tillage — Visit to a Convent, .... 207

CHAPTER XXY.

Tombs at Beni Hassan — Joseph and his Brethren — Pine Representations of Birds — And of Fishes — And Cattle — Agricultural Pursuits— Singular Yiew from the Mountain — Opposing Winds — Tempest-Tossed — Cairo in Sight — -One of the Men plunged — Yisit to the Pyramid of Sakkara — Memphis — Colossal Statue of Remeses the Great — The Quarries of Massara, 219

CHAPTER XXYI.

Reluctance to part from our Boat — Kindness of the Boatmen — Their Endurance — Meagre Food and Small Pay — Cooking Apparatus of the Crew — Danger from Fire — Pyramids of Ghizeh — Disappointment and Reason for it — Charming Landscape — The Isle of Rhoda — Mooring and pulling up of Stakes— Garden of the Pacha — Mirage, 224

CHAPTER XXYII.

Return to Cairo — Preparations for the Desert — Mahaffa — Excursion to the Petrified Forest — Return through the City — Disaster — Sheikh Hoseyn — Yisitors — Snake-Charmer — Outfit Completed — Display of Tents — Spectators — Departure, 235

CHAPTER XXYIII.

First Night and Morning in the Desert — Mode of Life — Caravan — Desert from Cairo to Suez — Character and Dress of Sheikh Hoseyn — Sheikh Umbarrak and the Men — A Day's Travel — Reoose — Coffee

X

CONTENTS.

from Hoseyn — Camel's Milk — Our Cook Mohammed— Disposition of the Men and Camels for the Night — Refreshing Nights — Characteristics of Places of Encampment, and of the Bedouins — Contract to Syria, 244

CHAPTER XXIX.

Come upon the Track of the Israelites — Ayoun Moosa — The Pool of Marah — Wady Ghurundel — Elim — Character of the Scenery to Wady Eeiran — Repose at Wady Feiran — Journey continued — Mount Serbal — Change from the Mahaffa to a Camel — An Adventure — Visit to a Bedouin Harem — Camel Race — Sheikh Moosa — Character and Deportment of the Women — Singing and some Extraordinary Manifestations of Regard, ....... 254

CHAPTER XXX.

Tent-Life by Star-Light — Leave Mount Serbal — Pass of Gebel Ootaiah — Horeb and Sinai — Refreshing Thunder-Storm — Ascent of Sinai — View of Mount Catharine — Visit to the Convent — Preparation for ascending Horeb — Convent of El Arbain — A Night there — Summit of Horeb, 266

CHAPTER XXXI.

Farewell to the Mountains and Convents — Solitary Morning Walks — Wady Saal— Wady El Ain— Wady Watire— Pass of Negabad— The Patriarch Camel — Gulf of Akaba — Magnificent View across it — Tramp along its Coast — Town of Akaba — Free Trade in Shells- New Guides and Camels — A Simoon — Mount Hor — Wild Entrance through the Rocky Passes into Petra — Ascent of Mount Hor, 278

CHAPTER XXXII.

Wady El Arab a again — Toward the Land of Promise by Mount Seir — The Camel-Stealer — Pass of Tufa — Take leave of the Desert — Hebron — Tedious and Ridiculous Quarantine — Our Fourth Variety of Travelling — Horses and Mules— Romance of Travel ended, 292

Chapter I

ARRIVAL AT CONSTANTINOPLE — SALUTE — BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF STAM- BOUL AND ITS ENVIRONS — LANDING CONDITION OP THE STREETS- ENGLISH HOTEL — REMOVAL TO THE HOTEL OP MADAME * * * * — VIEW PROM IT — CAPT. L* * *• — SULTAN GOING TO MOSQUE.

It was early in the winter of 1850 that the noble steam frigate Mississippi made her way over the Sea of Marmora, and entered gracefully into the harbor of the Bosphorus.

Preparations were immediately made for saluting the Porte, and her heavy guns, discharged in rapid succession, sent forth loud, long, and mingled roars of thunder, that rattled and reverberated among the beautiful sloping shores, thickly studded with frail, profusely glazed houses and lofty mosques, whose stately minarets seemed to stand as sentinels to receive and

repeat the tidings of her joyful arrival. 1

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Scarcely had the reiterated and prolonged volleys died away, when the salute was courteously returned from the battery of the Sublime Porte, and the jets of fire and wreaths of smoke that accompanied the loud and hearty sounds of welcome added beauty to the grand and exciting scene.

With eager eyes and thrills of admiring wonder^ never to be experienced but once in a lifetime, we regarded the world of beauty and of novelty that surrounded us.

To the right of our entrance stretched the low line of undulating hills on the Asiatic side ; the quays thickly set with palaces and arsenals, behind which rose towns and gardens, and hills crowned with pretty MosJcs or country residences. Dark masses of cypress, covering a large area, indicated the site of the great cemetery of Scutari.

On our left, the European side, lay the city of Stamboul, or Constantinople proper, presenting an array of lantern-like looking houses, one rising above another, all showing to advantage upon the sloping and rounded hill on which the city is built, and terminating in the beautiful projection called Seraglio Point, where the old and forsaken palace is enveloped by dark cypresses, which, together with the noble mosque of St. Sophia, guarded by its tall minarets, give a sort of hallowed beauty to the spot. The immense mosques of Achmed, Soolimania, and others, towering above all in ponderous grandeur, the magnificent lofty domes and slender

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minarets standing out against the sky, are the crowning glory of the strange city.

The Golden Horn, sweeping round to the west and north, bathes the northern shore, and is alive with the light and graceful JcdiJcs or boats that skim the surface of the unrippled water, moved by the lazy oars of the turbaned kdiJcjis.

On the opposite side of the Horn rises the more modern town of Pera, and amid the small two-story wooden houses, of red, green, blue and brown, stand in imposing grandeur the stone palaces of the English, French and Russian legations. The lower and steepest sides of the hill, quite to the quay, are closely covered with similar wooden buildings of divers colors, the upper story projecting far beyond the lower, and filled with windows. The acclivity is so abrupt that these small houses seem almost to stand tottering one upon another, and form the busy, trafficking town of Galata, of which the old Genoese tower is a striking object.

A little more to the east and north, as the hill rounds, Tophanah finds a similar position to that of Galata, at the foot of Pera, and the tout ensemble has the appearance of an uninterrupted amphitheatre of buildings. The quay of Tophanah is graced by the mosque of Mahmoud H., having the most symmetrical minarets, and a beautiful arabesque fountain, by the side of which is a bivouac of soldiers. A flag-staff of uncommon beauty, upon which floats the brilliant red

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flag with its star and crescent, marks the site of the adjoining arsenal, from which the word Tophanah derives its origin.

A little beyond, following the shore of the Bosphorus, which is lined with rather dilapidated wooden buildings, is the palace of the Sultan, the one built by Mahmoud II., conspicuous for its light and tasteful architecture, so happily suited to its position ; the flight of white marble steps, leading down to the water from the whole length of it, harmonizing beautifully with the pale amber color of the building, and the white latticed windows. Still beyond, and near by, stands the more stately palace of stone erected by the present Sultan, Abdul Medjid.

We were set ashore in one of the ship's boats, accompanied by some of her gentlemanly officers, and the neat and orderly appearance of our sailors, in blue dress and bright buttons, with white collars and black tarpaulins, contrasted strikingly with the turbans and fezes of the loosely robed kdikjis who were resting in the confused crowd of little boats, through which we strove to thread our way to the landing at Tophanah.

Wonderful skill and dexterity are required to navigate the way through such a plantation of boats, amid brawling and disorder enough to drive one mad ; and when a successful opening is made by wedging in through the mass, ten chances to one but the boat encounters another, that pushes it back to take a new start.

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We found a carriage in waiting for us at the quay, and the ladies of our party, who were able to bear pounding and jolting, took their seats in it, while the invalid Mrs. was borne in a sedan chair.

The streets were certainly not in their holiday dress, for there had been a snow the day previous, and it had melted and mixed with the dirt, so that the mud was ankle deep. The driver, walking by the side of the carriage, guided the horses, and another attendant followed upon the other side for the purpose of balancing and keeping it right side up, in case the horses failed in their severe duty of dragging it up the terraced street, or a too large cavity in the rough and time-worn pavement should endanger the equmbrium.

At length, after much wonder at the quiet manner in which the steep and rugged ascent had been surmounted by our equipage, and wondering still more how ladies could pedestrianize in such pools of mud, (for we had been asked whether we would walk or ride, as if walking were a thing possible,) we were set down in the crowded street of Pera, before the door of the English hotel.

We were shown directly to our apartments, and the first sight of a room — large enough, if divided, to make three ordinary drawing-rooms — affected us somewhat like the entrance into a museum. Passing through it we found our sleeping apartments, consisting of three or four consecutive divisions of the length of the large hall, which formed the back part of the building. They were

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scantily but comfortably furnished, and commanded a view of a portion of the sea and some interesting parts of the city ; but the prospect of the smiling garden and grounds connected with the French palace, that lay directly beneath our windows, was more cheering and less strange than any other object.

The large hall that was to be our drawing-room had neither stove nor fireplace ; and the day after we became its occupants the weather was so cold that it snowed nearly all day long. A large copper vessel, called a mangal, in which were three or four quarts of burning charcoal, was placed in the room, around which we all huddled, in the vain hope of making ourselves comfortable. If we succeeded, as we sat crouching over it, in getting a little glow into our blue noses, and in thawing the benumbed ends of our fingers, it was at the fearful expense of severe headaches and dizzy brains.

In consequence of our bitter complaints and pitiful appeals for a more comfortable apartment, or at least the privilege of having a stove put up, another mangal was added, and large screens of baize or something of the sort were dexterously spread round the vessels of coal, forming a little circuitous apartment, within which we sought a shelter from the cold air of the large space that surrounded it. Here, indeed, we passed many a merry evening, enlivened by the society of the agreeable officers of the ship ; and a more felicitous tableau of some scene of incantation could not well be devised, than was presented by the little circle who sat with

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chattering teeth and shivering limbs over the blue fire that formed the centre of attraction. The deleterious effect of the charcoal fire was supposed to be obviated by throwing upon the coals bits of orange peel and other aromatic substances, as is customary in the East ; but the remedy was unhappily ineffectual, for every moment passed in that atmosphere was sure to be requited by vertigo of the brain.

After passing some days in this idle and useless condition, for we were unfitted for any employment, we succeeded in procuring very comfortable and warm rooms in the hotel then kept by Madame Giuseppina. This was a fine stone building, and we felt a pleasant degree of security in a habitation where the iron shutters and thick walls bade defiance to the devastating fires that so frequently lay waste large portions of the city. The front of the house was on a square, upon two sides of which were dwelling-houses of very unoriental aspect, but upon the fourth side rose tall and gloomy cypresses, and from the windows one might look down into the dark thicket, where, upon the uneven ground, was a no less dense collection of tombstones, sometimes standing, but, alas, more frequently tottering or fallen in neglected disorder. The Turkish tombstone, if it mark the grave of a man, is surmounted by a turban, and the diversity of forms shows the different generations that have passed away. These round-headed turbaned stones have very much the appearance of dwarfish imps, and one almost expects a

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pail- of goggle eyes to be peering from beneath the well-executed folds of white or gray stone. Those erected for women are decorated with wreaths or bunches of flowers. Both kinds have inscriptions, and are often colored and highly gilded. Sometimes they are of a bright azure blue, richly decorated with gilt, and extremely beautiful.

Looking over this sombre grove of cypress at the foot of the declivity to which it stretches, one beholds the arsenal for the troops, and the parade ground, always gay with red fezes, where the well-dressed soldier might be seen from an early hour of the morning until night going through the drill to the monotonous, unceasing sounds of the fife and drum, which, even at the distance at which our room was situated, rang in our ears quite too distinctly.

Near to the arsenal was the Custom-house, jutting out into the Golden Horn ; and amidst the slender, gracefully pointed kdifcs, with one, two or three pairs of oars, which is the common number — looking at the distance from which we saw them like schools of large fish — might often be seen the larger and more beautiful Jcaik of some Pacha, his head and shoulders just visible above the sides of the little boat in which he sate ensconced upon his rug and cushions, the four, six, eight or ten oarsmen, all white except the red head, pulling with all their might, while the fairy-like object glides swiftly up to the steps of the Custom-house.

One of the bridges that connects Pera and Galata

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with Stamboul is visible from tlie same point, and the little boats, as they went shooting out from the arches, formed a pretty sight. Some of the noble Turkish frigates that were anchored in the Golden Horn stood proudly among the small craft.

And on the other side of the Horn, as far as the line of vision is uninterrupted, lies the city of Stamboul, a wide-spread amphitheatre of windows and roofs, so closely set that there seems no room for passages among them. Far beyond may be seen the Sea of Marmora, glittering in the sunlight and in the western sky, gorgeously radiant with the beams of the setting sun, which, as it sinks behind a dome of massive grandeur, throws its last brilliant rays upon the gilded points of the minarets.

Often have I gazed long at those thousands of deserted-looking houses, without chimneys, where no sign of life was to be seen, not even one curling smokewreath, in the coldest days of winter, and wondered what sort of life made up the sum of the days that were passed there ; and what sort of beings they were who, in a great city, could manage to go without dinners, and not even enjoy the luxury of a cup of tea. But when evening came on, and darkness covered the face of all things, these solitary places were transformed into lamps of surpassing brilliancy, and the whole amphitheatre was glittering with myriads of lights. It was a fairy-like scene, not to be fully imagined by any

one who has never witnessed it. 1*

On Friday of every week, which is the Sunday of the Mohammedan, at the hour of sunrise the Turkish flag is raised upon all vessels, large and small, as also upon the flag-staffs and towers, and there remains until the going down of the sun. The effect of this exquisite banner of pure red and silvery white, dotting the water and waving upon the eminences, is extremely beautiful, but gives an aspect of martial festivity not exactly suited to our sombre notions of the observance of Sunday. If the Sultan goes to mosque, as he generally does between the hours of eleven and twelve, one's ears are saluted by the heavy firing of guns.

Soon after our arrival we had a fine opportunity of observing one of those gay spectacles which are constantly occurring on the Bosphorus to charm away the dulness of commonplace life.

So long as our beautiful frigate remained to grace the waters, we received frequent testimonies of the generosity and courtesy of her excellent commander,

Capt. L , who had won our esteem and friendship

by his long-tried kindness and indefatigable efforts to promote our comfort, while we were partakers of his liberal hospitality during our voyage from Naples to Constantinople. .

The Sultan was in the habit of worshipping at a mosque near his palace. Having been informed that on a certain Friday he would go by water to the mosque of St. Sophia, which is three or four miles from his residence, Capt. L invited us on board his ship,

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which occupied a fine position for observing the display.

As the Sultan left his palace guns were fired simultaneously from a battery adjoining and a Turkish frigate near by, which latter was decorated with the flags of various nations, among them that of our own country. Our frigate was at a considerable distance from the palace, so that we had ample time to watch the gilded, fairy-like barges as they approached us on their way. There were five or six of them, each having twenty-four oarsmen, dressed alike in white shirts of silk and crape and red fezes. The Sultan was alone in a white and highly gilded barge, differing from the others only in having a canopy of velvet and gold. As

they came near Capt. L saluted with a tremendous

crash, and as the Sultan passed along the firing continued from French and other frigates, all highly decorated with banners. Loud guns from the Porte were also fired to announce his departure from the palace, and altogether it was a gay, exciting, and hearty display of homage and adulation. It was a novel and odd way, though, to us Puritans, of going to church in the midst of the smoke and roar of cannon.

Chapter II. Turkish Fondness For Fine Scenery — Dogs — Streets Of Pera, Etc

It would seem as if the organ of sight were the one sense of the Turk, through which he receives his highest gratification. That he has a taste for the beauties of natural scenery, may be inferred from the fine posi- - tions chosen upon the quays for palaces, and the commanding eminences selected for kiosks or summer residences. The prettiest lawns and clumps of trees are resorted to for passing the days in listless idleness, where the eye, and the eye alone is feasted ; for generally a crust of bread, and a handful of grapes or plums, or a full grown cucumber, constitute the meagre fare. Temperance in eating and drinking is a well-known characteristic of the Turk, but few have anj^idea of the extent to which it is carried.

While all possible pains are taken to produce an effect upon the eye, showing his keen perception of objects and a high appreciation of beauty, he sits with an astonishing degree of composure, proving his auditory nerves to be none of the finest, unmoved by the

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torturing notes of the Bulgarian piper, or the yet more distracting, unearthly sounds that come from the canine pandemonium. • It was long before our ears were accustomed to the discordant tones which issued from the councils of that multitudinous yelping race, and our ears tingle and our nerves shake afresh, as we call to mind the horrible sensation of slumbers disturbed by those demoniac cries.

The dogs of Constantinople, living or dead, are the greatest nuisance of the place. They experience, in common with the rest of the world, the forbearance and long-suffering of the generous Turks, but are never taken into their houses, and they owe allegiance to no one. They divide themselves into separate districts, and are harmonious and peaceable enough when undisturbed ; but woe betide the unfortunate stranger, man or dog, who ventures to enter upon the territories of these inhospitable creatures. If a man, he may be sure that his heels will long remind him of his fatal mistake or hardihood ; and if one of their own species, he is unmercifully hunted as an intruder out of the quarter where he has no birthright. The combined shouts of the assembly are instantaneously raised to deter the heedless transgressor, and active measures are taken to enforce the rigorous laws of this gregarious community. These animals take possession of all the waste places, picking up a scanty pittance where it may be found in the city, and are a lean, lank, bony race, party-colored, dirty white and yellow. It is a remarkable fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the dogs at Constantinople.

The streets of Pera and its suburbs may defy all the world to match them in the inconvenience arising from bad pavements, dirt, crowds of donkeys laden with bricks and timbers for building, caravans of camels, and the taalikas or carriages of the higher classes of society that frequently blockade the passage. In the midst of this transportation of goods, chattels, and gentry, between buildings that encroach upon the highway, which is minus sidewalks, the mixed and motley multitude of pedestrians that form the great portion of this Babel contrive to thread a tortuous course ; now arrested by long timbers that, fastened together and crossed upon the neck of the poor little animal, are left to fly apart and vibrate, threatening annihilation to the unfortunate object within their reach ; now warned by the tinkling bell that is suspended from the neck of the camel of the approach of the long train that follows ; here seeking shelter in the door of some shop from the rapid and heavy gallop of powerful chargers mounted by Turkish chiefs, whose arms are rattling upon the pummel of the richly embroidered saddle, and the numerous attendants who bring up the rear, — there dexterously escaping a crushing pelt from a cargo of brick that nearly conceals the little victim doomed to bear it, who, in common with a score of his companions, left to their own guidance, totter hither and thither as if in practice for a tilting match.