The desert and the Holy Land

Front matter

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P3TNTED BY AIRD AXD COGEILL FOR "W. OLEPHAXT AXD CO., - - ' - - - EDETBCKGH. HAMILTON, ADA3IS, AXD CO.. - - - - LOXDOX. DAYH) ROBERTSON, GLASGOW.

THE DESERT

Preface

In the following pages all controversy as to disputed sites, or about the ancient and modern topography of J erusalem, has been studiously avoided. Discussions upon these points may be left to the Exploration Committee, whose important labours have been already attended with very gratifying results. I have not attempted to pass beyond the domain of simple narrative and description. Humourous incidents have not been withheld when they tend to illustrate Eastern life and manners, or give variety and interest to the narrative. To some minds this may seem scarcely in keeping with the sacred character' attached to certain localities. My object, however, has been to state what I saw and how I felt, so that this book is nothing more than a record of impressions received and incidents that took place, in the midst of scenes teeming with the most hallowed associations that can appeal to the human heart.

It would be presumptuous for almost any writer on the East to imagine that he could throw any degree of originality or novelty into his descriptions, further than what may be expected from his own peculiar way of looking at things, and of stating his impressions. I claim nothing more than this for the viii

PEEFACE.

present volume ; and if any apology is needed for its appearance, when so many books exist on the same subject, I can at least refer to the unanimous request for publication made by a large meeting at the close of a series of lectures which I lately delivered on the East.

The journey was quite an era in my life, and afforded me intense delight. The writing out of my Journal for the press has given me almost as much pleasure, for this labour of love has led me again amongst the old and fondly-cherished scenes, though in a somewhat different way. I can truly say with the poet that these sacred localities —

"Have not been to me As is a landscape to a blind man's eye: But oft in lonely rooms, and 'mid the din Of towns and cities, I have owed to them In hours of weariness, sensations sweet, Felt in the blood, and felt along the heart; And passing even into my purer mind, "With tranquil restoration."

The route taken to Palestine was not what may be termed the easy and ordinary one, by sea to Jaffa and thence to Jerusalem, but across the Gulf of Suez, through the Sinaitic Peninsula to the Covenant Altar at Sinai, and from that by Nakhul to Gaza, on the borders of ancient Philistia • then along the coast to Askelon, and the old seaport formed out of a bit of rugged reef at Jaffa. The route from this embraced the usual places of interest in the Holy Land, with the addition, perhaps, of a few days spent on Mount Carmel.

Prominence has been given to the Desert, and this is a part of the journey which may still possess some features of special

PEEFACE.

IX interest, even for those who have dipped largely into books of Eastern travel.

A few extracts will be found in the Appendix from a poem entitled " The Pyramids," written long ago, when I had not the slightest idea that I would ever have the pleasure of visiting the land of the Pharaohs. These extracts may perhaps help to invest with additional interest the brief description given of these mighty structures in the third chapter. At all events, I rejoice at the present opportunity of associating that poetical effusion of earlier days with this narrative of a personal journey recently made to the Pyramids themselves — on this occasion not a trip of fancy, but of plain matter of fact.

The marked success which has attended the indefatigable labours of Mrs. Bowen Thompson in connection with the British Syrian Schools at Beyrout, and other places on the Lebanon, must be very pleasing to all who are interested in the Christian education of females in that land to which the whole of Christendom is so much indebted. Special reference has been made to these Schools in the thirteenth chapter and in the Appendix, with the view of enlisting increased sympathy and effort on their behalf.

Glasgow, 2Wi November, 1867.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Frontispiece — Interior op Jerusalem from -the North. Vignette — Absalom's Tomb.

Mount Sinai — Convent of St. Catherine. - - - page 115

The Mount op Olives, - - - - - - - 223

Plain op the Jordan, looking towards the Dead Sea, „ 271

Bethlehem, - - - ,, 289

Group of Scholars in the British Syrian Schools at

Beyrout, 399

Chapter I. Marseilles To Cairo

PAGE

A RAPID RUN — MARSEILLES — OUR FELLOW-PASSENGERS — SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE — CAPRERA — GARIBALDI — MALTA — MALTESE DIVERS — SUNRISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN — SHIPS SALUTING AT NIGHT — STIRRING SCENE AT LANDING — RAMLEH — RUINS — SIGHTS OE ALEXANDRIA — IMPRESSIONS OE THE DELTA, - - - 17

Chapter II. Cairo

SHEPHERD'S HOTEL — HANGERS -ON — DONKEY BOYS — 'STREETS AND SIGHTS OE CAIRO — DONKEY RIDES — BAZAARS — PLACES OF IN- TEREST — MOSQUES — MOSLEM ZEAL — COPTIC SERVICE — PROMISING YOUTHS — NUMBER OF COPTS — COPTIC QUARTER, - - 36

. CHAPTER III.

SAKHARRA— MEMPHIS— THE PYRAMIDS.

HASSANAINE EFFENDI — OUR DAHABYEH — SAIL ON THE NILE — TOMBS OF SAKHARRA — MEMPHIS — VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS— STRANGE SCENE IN THE KING'S CHAMBER — ONSET FOR BAKSHEESH — HELIO- POLIS — THE VIRGIN'S TREE — MAHARAJAH-DHULEEP-SINGH AND HIS BRIDE— OUR CONTRACT— SCENE AT THE RAILWAY STATION, CAIRO — OFF TO SUEZ, 52

Xll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IY.

SUEZ TO TEE WELLS OF MOSES.

TAGE

MAJOR MACDONALD — ICE IN THE DESERT — MEDICAL DEGREE OE HAKEEM PASHA — EIRST NIGHT IN THE DESERT — OUR DINING TABLE — ARAB SHEIKH — MUSTAPHA THE COOK — OUR ATTENDANTS MOHAMMED AND ACHMED — AMEERIE — HOTSPUR — THE VENTRILO- QUIST — OUR CAMELS — FUNERAL AT SUEZ — EIRST CAMEL -RIDE- DRESS OE THE BEDOUINS— SKETCH OE OUR ENCAMPMENT, - - 71

CHAPTER Y.

WELLS OF M OSES TO MOUNT SINAI.

WONDERFUL TINTS — WELLS OF MOSES — MORE ICE IN THE DESERT — DELIVERANCE OF ISRAEL AT THE RED SEA — MARAH — ELIM — WADY USEIT — WADT TAYIBEH — ENCAMPMENT BY THE RED SEA- WORKSHOP OE THE CYCLOPS — DESERT SCENERY — WADY MEGARAH — MAJOR MACDONALD'S HOME IN THE DESERT — THE WRITTEN VALLEY — WADY FEIEAN — THE BEDOUIN PARADISE — MOUNT SERBAL — THE UNFORTUNATE KID — THE SHEIKH'S PRESENT — ARRIVAL AT SINAI, ' - 90

CHAPTER VI

CONVENT OF ST. CATHERINE AND ENVIRONS.

CONVENT OF SAINT CATHERINE — CELEBRATION OE EASTER — SABBATH AT SINAI — GIVING OF THE LAW — JEBEL MOUSA — RAS-SUFSAFEH — ANTIQUITIES OF THE CONVENT — AN ARAB SUPPER — DEPARTURE FROM THE CONVENT — SHEIKH'S TOMB — RELIGIOUS INDIFFERENCE OF THE BEDOUINS — LETTER-CAE RIER IN THE DESERT, - - 115

CONTENTS.

xiii

CHAPTER VII

A DAY IN THE DESERT.

PAGE

A DAY IN THE DESERT — MORNING'S WORK— QUARRELS OF THE ARABS — AN UMBRELLA CATASTROPHE — RHETORICAL AMUSEMENTS — HAPPY THOUGHTS— FAMISHED BEDOUINS — CAMPING GROUND — A BEDOUIN BUTTER MERCHANT — INTENSE THIRST — THE MIRAGE— HAGAR AND ISHMAEL, 131

CHAPTER VIII.

SINAI TO GAZA.

wilderness of el-tih — curious formations — agreeable disappointment—sand-storm — arrival at nakhul — american triumph — Shakespeare's anniversary — a hated sheikh — locusts — borders of the desert — night visit — bedouin horsemanship — flitting-day — two ishmaelites — our guide stolen — approach to gaza — ramble through the town — telegraph poles — howling dervishes— farewell to the

DESERT, - 14&

CHAPTER IX.

GAZA TO JAFFA.

.ANCIENT PHILISTIA — HER FIVE ROYAL CITIES— RUINS OF ASKELON — TRIUMPHS OF THE SAND-DRIFT— SCENE AT MEJDIL — ASHDOD — EKRON — LIFE IN A TOMB — PLAIN OF SHARON — APPROACH TO JAFFA — FESTIVAL OF TABITHA — AMUSING SCENES IN JAFFA — HOUSE OF SIMON THE TANNER— DOING BUSINESS IN THE OLD SEAPORT — STRANGE SIGHTS AT THE WATER-GATE— DOG-FIGHTS ON THE HILL, ' - - - - - 171 xiv

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

JAFFA TO JERUSALEM.

PAGE

WORSE THAN A DOG-FIGHT — DEPARTURE PROM JAFFA — PHOTOGRAPHS AT A WELL— BETH-DAGON — RAMLEH — VIEW FROM THE TOWER — LYDDA — THE LOST PLAID — SYRIAN FEVER — PASS OF BETH-HORON

— SAGACITY OF THE ARAB HORSE — A LILY AMONG THORNS — APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — NEBY SAMWIL — FIRST VIEW OF JERUSALEM — IMPRESSIONS — GIBEON — APPROACH TO JERUSALEM — PIC-NIC PARTIES — DAUGHTERS OF ZION — MARKS OF THE CURSE

— CITY WALL — WITHIN THE GATES — FIRST NIGHT IN "THE DAMASCUS," 189

CHAPTER XL

JERUSALEM AND THE HOLY PLACES.

HOLY SEPULCHRE — SACRED FIRE AT EASTER — VIEW FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES — CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION — BETHANY — SPOT WHERE JESUS WEPT — GETHSEMANE — JERUSALEM AT NIGHT — BISHOP GOB AT — HARAM ES - SCHERIFF — MOSQUE OF OMAR — WONDERFUL ROCK — MOSQUE OF AKSA — SUBSTRUCTURES — TOP OF THE CITY WALL — CAPTAIN WILSON'S ARCH — VIEW FROM THE GOVERNOR'S HOUSE — CONVENT OF THE CROSS — VALLEY OF HIN- NOM — POOL OF SILOAM — PALACE OF CAIAPHAS — SABBATH IN JERUSALEM — LONELINESS OF JESUS — VIA DOLOROSA — FESTIVAL OF THE MACCABEES — EXCAVATIONS UNDER THE CITY — WAILING PLACE, - ' - 21 £

CHAPTER XII.

THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA.

EXCURSION TO THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA — ARMED ESCORT — OUR HORSES AND MULES SEIZED — TRIUMPH OF LORD CLAREN-

CONTENTS.

DON'S SEAL — OFF TO JERICHO — BATH IX THE JORDAN— DEAD SEA — PHYSICAL ASPECTS OF THE GH6R — CONTENT OF MAR SABA — ROW AT BETHLEHEM — GROTTO OF THE NATIVITY — SOLOMON'S POOLS — HEBRON — ABRAHAM'S OAK — CAYE OF MACHPELAH — MOSLEM FANATICISM — ANOTHER BUSINESS TRANSACTION — GLA^s MANUFACTURE — VALLEY OF URTAS — LOCUSTS — BETHLEHEM RE- VISITED — THE WELL OF DAVID — EACHEL*S TOMB — RETURN TO JERUSALEM — FAREWELL,

CHAPTER XIII.

NAZ ARETE AND THE LAKE OF GALILEE.

BAD ROADS — ABOU GOOSH OR KIR JATH-JEARIM— BIRTHPLACE OF THE PENITENT THIEF — CONTENT OF RAMLEH — MOSLEM CALLS TO PRAYER — JAFFA AGAIN — OESAREA — HAIFA — SIR AN GE QUARTERS — CONVENT OF MOUNT CARMEL — SITE OF ELIJAH'S SACRIFICE — FORD OF KISHON— NAZARETH — MOUNTAIN HOME OF JESUS — HIS CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH — CARPENTER'S WORKSHOP — MAGNIFI- CENT PANORAMA — MEMORABLE ACCIDENT — FESTIVAL OF CORPUS CHRISTI — TAWDRY PROCESSION — YOUNG ARAB CHIEF — BENI SAKAR AND ADOUAN TRIBES — TURKISH MISRULE — MISSIONARY EFFORTS AT NAZARETH — WRETCHED PEASANTRY — LAKE OF GALILEE— TIBERIAS— CHOLERA — SAIL TO TELL HUM— RUINS OF CAPERNAUM — ON TO SHEFA 'AMAR — ACRE — PROCESSIONS — QUEER CONSUL — BRITISH T.ARS — BEYROUT — MRS. THOMPSON'S BRITISH SYRIAN SCHOOLS, --------- 205

CHAPTER XIV.

LEBANON AND DAMASCUS.

OVER THE LEBANON — EARLY START — APPROACH TO DAMASCUS — STREET CALLED " STRAIGHT : ' — PAUL'S CONVERSION — VIEW OF THE CTTY FROM A NEIGHBOURING HEIGHT — RICHLY-DECORATED xvi CONTENTS.

PAGE

HOUSES — STRANGE CONTRASTS — MODE OE DOING BUSINESS — COURT OE THE HOTEL DEMETRI — CHRISTIAN QUARTER — MASSA- CRE OE 1S60 — NOBLE EFFORTS OE ABDEL KADER — DOGS OF DA- MASCUS — mr. tristram's description oe the city — dancing

AND HOWLING DERVISHES — INSCRIPTION ON THE GREAT MOSQUE — BACK TO BEYROUT — COMMUNION SERVICE — ON BOARD THE "AUSTRIA" — TURKISH HAREEM — CYPRUS — HAREEM THE SECOND — VISIT TO RHODES — ANCIENT' STREET OE THE KNIGHTS — DE- LIGHTFUL SAIL — CHIOS — A TRAGIC STORY: BARBARITY OE THE TURKS, - - 329

CHAPTER XV.

TWO WEEKS IN A TURKISH LAZARETTO.

GULF OF SMYRNA — QUARANTINE — UNNECESSARY ALARM — NIOBE IN TEARS — VIEW OF SMYRNA — FIELD OF TROY — LAZARETTO OF ABYDOS — COLD RECEPTION — STRANGE MEDLEY — UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS — INSECT POPULATION — FIRST NIGHT OF QUARANTINE — RUSSIAN PILGRIMS — SLAVE MARKET — SCENE AT BATHING — THE DOCTOR'S DIFFICULTIES— BABEL RENEWED — SABBATH SER- VICES — ALL NATIONS REPRESENTED — MELANCHOLY THOUGHTS — FREE ONCE MORE— A BIT OF DOGGEREL — VISIT TO DARDANELLES — IMMENSE GUNS — OFF TO CONSTANTINOPLE — MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF THE CITY — SHORES OF THE BOSPHORUS — SCUTARI — SCENE AT THE "SWEET WATERS" — BAZAARS — PRINCES ISLANDS — FARE- WELL TO STAMBOUL — DISAPPOINTMENT AT ATHENS — HOMEWARD

Appendix

EXTRACTS FROM "THE PYRAMIDS" — PROPOSAL FOR ERECTING A PROTESTANT CHURCH AT NAZARETH — "THE SEA OF GALILEE " — ORIGIN OF THE BRITISH SYRIAN SCHOOLS UNDER THE CHARGE OF MRS. THOMPSON— INSECT POPULATION OF TIBERIAS, - - 381

THE

DESERT AND THE HOLY LAND.

CHAPTER I.

A RAPID RUN — MARSEILLES — OUR FELLOW PASSENGERS— SIR MOSES MON- TEFIORE — CAPRERA — GARIBALDI — MALTA — MALTESE DIVERS — SUN- RISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN — SHIPS SALUTING AT NIGHT— STIRRING SCENE AT LANDING — RAMLEH — RUINS — SIGHTS OF ALEXANDRIA — IMPRESSIONS OF THE DELTA.

T was towards the end of February, on a bright morning of keen frost, when the Campsie Hills were still streaked with snow, that we left behind us the smoke of the city, and set out to visit the sacred scenes of the East. A few words will carry us over the first stages of our journey. On to London — across the channel to Paris — night train to Lyons, which we pass in the grey dawn — sweep along the vine-clad banks of the Ehone, which every now and then flashes upon our view in winding curves or in long stretches, made glad with fruit-trees already in blossom, till at last we reach the noble maritime city of Marseilles, the gate of the "Great Sea."

A neighbouring height commands a fine view of the city, its old forts, its spacious harbours, its vast shipping; its grey houses with their red tiles; the mountains that

B

THE DESEKT AND THE HOLY LAND.

enclose it with their bare chalk cliffs; its six thousand villas, beautifully situated in the well-wooded suburbs; the rocky islands in front that guard this great sea gate like so many sentinels; the flags of all nations floating in the breeze, which, by the by, is as soft and genial at the commencement of March as the breath of June is at home. These are but a few touches of memory that give only a very faint idea of this splendid panorama. A prominent feature in it is the new and magnificent palace of the Emperor, a well merited gift from the citizens, for next to the Capital there is no city in France in which the imperial genius and enterprise for new and spacious streets and magnificent buildings have been of late more strikingly displayed. This glorious view, the fine weather, the prospect of Eastern travel, send us on board the Poonah, one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's fine steamers, in excellent spirits.

Our ship is a little world in itself; and we are not long on board till we find a great variety amongst the passengers as to social position, profession, history, and character. Some are Indian officers who have been home on furlough, and are now returning to their regiments ; some, young men going out to fill important commercial situations in India; some, newly-married couples, and these most sacredly keep by themselves, not collectively, but in single pairs — make no new acquaintances, why should they? — pace the deck most lovingly, and are, of course, as they ought to be, during the honeymoon at least, all the world to each other. God bless them ! Their faces are still before us — their confiding looks all sunshine, love, and bright hopes. Not much more than twelve months have passed; what and where are they now ? We felt specially drawn towards an old and very

SIR MOSES MONTEFIOEE.

venerable-looking gentleman, who was accompanied by a select party of friends. This was the celebrated Jewish philanthropist, Sir Moses Montefiore,* who has done so much for the land of his fathers, and who was now on his way to it for the sixth or seventh time. Seldom have we met with a finer specimen of a good old man; and the evening talks we had together on deck about Palestine and the present condition and prospects of the Jews, gave a special charm to that voyage, which will ever be a pleasant memory. He was so liberal and tolerant in his views that controversy was kept at a distance ; and had we not heard him addressed at first by his title, when one of his friends spoke to him, we might have taken him for a worthy old Secession minister from the country. He was scarcely ever seen without a Hebrew psalter in his hand, or a book of prayer in that language ; and he spoke with great delight of the growing interest that was felt throughout Christendom in his fatherland. Often did he express an earnest desire to improve the condition of his brethren who had found their way to Jerusalem. He was the centre of attraction to all on board, especially to those who were going to that city;

* The following particulars, gleaned from a paragraph that has latelyappeared in several newspapers, will be interesting to our readers : — Sir Moses Montefiore, whose mission to Roumania has just betn crowned with success, is upwards of eighty years of age, having been born in 1784. This venerable an I honoured Hebrew, who has acquired a worldwide reputation for philanthropy, and his many journeys to distant countries on behalf of the oppressed of his race, has thus crowned the achievements of a noble life. In his eightieth year he undertook a similar mission to Morocco, and was equally successful. His wife Judith died in 1882, without issue, so that Sir Moses has no child to succeed him in his title; but the name of "Montefiore" will always be honoured and respected in England, while his philanthropic labours will be admired by all nations.

THE DESERT AND THE HOLY LAND.

and on one occasion, when we were all gathered around him, it was truly affecting to see his old, kindly face glowing with delight as he quoted the words of the prophet from his Hebrew Bible : " Thus saith the Lord of hosts, In those days it shall come to pass, that ten men shall take hold out of all languages of the nations, even shall take hold of the skirt of him that is a Jew, saying, We will go with you : for we have heard that God is with you" (Zech. viii. 23).

We had also pleasant intercourse with the friends who accompanied the venerable knight, especially with Dr. Lcewe, an excellent Arabic scholar, and with Dr. Hodgkin, an eminent physician. It was with great surprise and sorrow that we heard, on reaching Jaffa, after leaving the Desert, that the latter had died of diarrhoea in that town, and was buried in the cemetery there. This sad event was so trying to Sir Moses that he was ob'iged to cut short his visit and return home. The good doctor had a fatherly care over our own health ; and on parting with him at Alexandria, he gave us many excellent advices as to the caution that is needed in an Eastern climate; but we little thought that he was to succumb so soon to that disease about which he warned us with so much characteristic kindness. Sir Moses, in his own printed journal, has borne testimony to the worth of his friend ; and we, too, wish in this passing tribute of respect to add our own stone to the cairn of grateful memories cherished in many quarters in connection with the name of this "beloved physician."

On the day after we left Marseilles we were steaming through the Straits of Bonifacio, with Corsica on the one side and Sardinia on the other. The very name of the former brought up vividly the wondrous career of

GARIBALDI.

'21

Bonaparte, that stirred the world to its depths.- In the narrowest part of the Straits we seemed to be completely landlocked. It reminded ns of the Kyles of Bute, with this great difference, that the scenery in the Straits is much more wild and rugged, and on a grander scale. It was a lovely sail. All eyes were turned towards a small island with shattered peaks, that looked bare and desolate as seen from the deck. On a rising ground, at no great distance from the shore, there is a range of Buildings like a farm steading, with extended wings, and more than the usual supply of outhouses. That rocky island is Caprera, and that house is the dwelling of the illustrious patriot, Garibaldi. The excitement of many became intense as the house of the General was pointed out. Several, with glass in hand, rushed to the captain's gangway, although this was understood to be forbidden. The boatswain stood at the extreme bow of the ship, surrounded by a group of passengers. With much enthusiasm he pointed out the house, and spoke in glowing terms of its distinguished occupant. All hearts were touched, and if there was not a loud British cheer, a silent '"'God bless him !" at least, was breathed by not a few. Next day, when passing a lonely, bare, and rugged island, the boatswain pointed to it as one of the prisons where the late King of Naples had confined political offenders ; and here again our weather-beaten friend referred with honest pride to the General: "Ay, he smashed the prison doors ! That island now looks beautiful. I never passed it without a shudder when the poor fellows were there !"

At midnight our ship's guns were fired and blue lights thrown up. We had reached Malta, made famous by the shipwreck of Paul, and in later times by the history of

THE DESERT AND THE HOLY LAND.

the Crusades and the Knights. The Poonah was to sail early next morning, but surely we might see St. Paul's Bay, some twelve miles off. There was beautiful moonlight to back our resolution, and this in Malta has peculiar charms; but it was after midnight, and there were sundry head-shakings and shruggings of the shoulders, and looks that were fax on the other side of persuasive, and hints about banditti and " barbarous people," so the charms of a full moon, added to all the attractions of history, only succeeded with two of the passengers, the writer and his friend.

Having landed, we passed through one massive arched gateway after another, leading to the strong fortifications for which the island is famous. After considerable difficulty we succeeded in getting a conveyance at one of the hotels, and set out for the bay shortly after one o'clock. The fortifications seemed to be endless, but at last we gained the open country, shining all over with white rocks and countless lines of white stone dykes, so that the whole island, gleaming in the moonlight, seemed to be covered with snow. The chill of such a thought was but for a moment ; for although it was in March, there was a genial softness in the midnight air, and several clumps of orange trees in front of the hotel were bright with luscious fruit. Any one with time and means at his command might very easily cut the winter out of his year by repairing to this island in cuckoo fashion. The poet sings of that mysterious bird —

" Thou hast no sorrow in thy song, No winter in thy year."

As to the " no sorrow " part of that bird's life, man cannot expect to find this anywhere ; but if the dreaded st. paul's bay.

winter of the north is left behind, Malta will welcome the human " bird of passage " to its genial summer clime.

But yonder is the bay. — We dismounted, and sat down on the silent shore ; and it required no effort of imagination vividly to recall the whole scene of the shipwreck, and the closing crisis of it, connected with this spot, and described in the following words : — "And falling into a place where two seas met, they ran the ship aground; and the fore part stuck fast and remained unmoveable, but the hinder part was broken with the violence of the waves" (Acts xxvii. 41). Mr. Smith's admirable treatise on the voyage and shipwreck of St. Paul — a treatise remarkable for its profound learning, ingenuity, and research — has finally settled the question as to the scene of the shipwreck. Confident of this, we sat down on the silent shore and picked up a few pebbles and shells as memorials of our visit. The bay lay calm and like a sheet of silver before us, presenting a striking contrast to the storm which drove Paul and his companions into its boisterous waters. While thus engaged, a half-naked and most uncouth-looking Caliban — for such he appeared to be by moonlight, which made him all the more wildly grotesque and savage-looking — dropped suddenly upon us with noiseless tread, for his feet were bare. Our first thought was of the scriptural expression, " the barbarous people." This specimen, we concluded, must be a descendant. We could not make out a single word of his strange tongue, but by his signs we soon discovered that his great anxiety was to get us to follow him to his wretched cabin at hand, where he wished to do a little stroke of business in his own way. Even at St. Paul's Bay, at three o'clock in the morning, we were not permitted to enjoy in quietness our own thoughts, or to stroll about on the shore, without being importuned and annoyed by a native merchant of a most sinister aspect. We went with him into his hovel, and felt relieved when he offered us some fish teeth, shells, and other relics for sale. He was a beauty compared with his wife, and a few rapid purchases brought us out of their clutches. We felt thankful even for the hurried look we had got of the scene of Paul's shipwreck by moonlight.

On returning, we drove up to a magnificent church with a large dome, all built of beautiful white stone, a few miles from Valetta. This building had the appearance of a mass of silver in the moon's pale beams. It never occurred to us that we could get in to see it at such an early hour — not yet five o'clock — but as we stood in front admiring its fine proportions, several figures, wrapped in the Maltese faldetto, came up and glided in at one of the side doors. We followed, and were greatly astonished to find the vast area of the church dimly lighted, priests at the altar, many men and women kneeling on the floor at their morning devotions. The glimmering lights, the early hour, the murmur of many voices at prayer, the black covering worn by the women, had a very striking and, we must confess, an impressive effect. There seemed to be an element of earnestness worthy of a purer faith.

We got into Valetta by six o'clock, and proceeded to examine thi immense fortifications, many of them cut out of the solid rock. The lions of Malta would require a volume. The most of our spare time was given to the church of St. John and a few other very interesting buildings. From a high rampart we had a most magnificent view of the harbour and the town, the island stretching all round in dazzling whiteness. The

3IALTESE DIVERS.

balmy air, the orange-trees laden with their golden fruit, the deep blue sky, without a film of mist or a cloud overarching this brio;ht 2'em on the bosom of the sea, formed a very striking contrast to the biting east winds, the smoke, the raw and rnurky atmosphere, and to what Cristopher North used to call the "cut-throat hoar" of our northern land. Yaletta swarms with priests, and some of them have a most forbidding look. On passing throuo-h the streets, the lan^uao-e and the dress of the people, the style of the houses and the delicious climate, announced to us that we were on the threshold of oriental life, in the transition city between the Eastern and the Western World.

On reaching our ship, shortly before the anchor was raised, we were much amused at the amphibious nature of some Maltese boys, who were all but naked, and who kept paddling about in little boats. They were excellent divers, and with most imploring looks and earnest entreaties they besought the passengers who were looking over the bulwarks to throw pieces of money into the sea. The moment a coin was dropped into the deep blue waters, one of these boys would plunge down head foremost, and in a few seconds bring it up in his mouth. A sea bird could not go down into the depths more gracefully than these young divers. No sooner was the piece of money which the} 7 had fished up from the bottom taken from their mouths than they were instantly clamouring for more. There is many a way of earning a penny, but we had never seen it dived for before. Whatever amusement, however, this might furnish the passengers, it was a matter of life or death earnestness — a very hard struggle for daily bread — on the part of the poor boys, who really looked half-starved.