A guide to the western Alps

Front matter

TO THE EDITOR OF THE TIMES.

Sir, — It has hitherto been customary for persons making the ascent of Mont Blanc to devote two dayB to the expedition, the first night being passed either in the cabin on the Grands Mulets, or the still more wretched hut on the Aiguille du Goute. This course necessitates a very large supply of provisions and the engagement of porters at a considerable expense, to carry them up to whichever night quarters may be selected. I therefore venture to trouble you with a few notes of an ascent made on Saturday, the 2dinst., when I had the pleasure of proving the practica- j bility of accomplishing the whole distance in a single day, thereby avoiding the uncomfortable night quarters, materially reducing the charge for provisions, and entirely obviating the necessity for porters.

Accompanied only by my guide, Christian Aimer, I left the rough but clean little inn known as the Pavillion Bellevue, above the Col de Voza, at 2 a.m., reached the top of the Aiguille du Goute at 10 10 a.m., and the summit of Mont Blanc vid the Bosse du Dromadaire, at 3 5 p.m. The descent to Chamouni was effected by the ordinary route of the Corridor, Grand Plateau, and Glacier des Boissons. By 9 30 p.m. we were within half an hour of the village of Chamouni, but in the darkness missed the way through the lower part of the forest, and although, as we subsequently saw, the track was close to us, were unable to extricate ourselves till daylight. But for this unfortunate contretemps Chamouni would have been reached by 10 p.m. The excessive time occupied by the expedition, (20 hours, including halts to the extent of only 1| hour) was caused by the unu. sually dangerous condition of the Aiguille du Goute, the ascent of which took two hours longer than usual in consequence of the rocks being coated with ice. Under ordinary circumstances a pedestrian in good condition might fairly hopeto accomplish the entire " course" in 18 hours.

Preface

As high mountain countries, and the Alps in particular, abound with phenomena new and striking to the intelligent observer, there is a constant increase in the number of those who, without undertaking systematic research, are led to desire further information respecting the structure of the earth's surface, and the causes that have uplifted the mountain ranges, or the laws that regulate the circulation of heat and moisture, which maintain what may be called the inanimate life of our planet, or the animal and vegetable forms that exhibit in apparently inhospitable regions so rich a variety.

In addition to these objects of interest, there is a simpler branch of enquiry which especially recommends itself to many of our active and energetic countrymen. Many parts of the Alps are very difficult of access, and but a few years ago there were many considerable districts whose highest peaks had never been attained, which were not known to be traversed by practicable passes, and of which none but slight and imperfect information was anywhere accessible. To explore these little-known districts, to scale the higher summits, and to discover passes that should connect valleys that are separated by lofty ranges, have been the pursuits of the members of the Alpine Club.

Without exaggerating the importance of the work achieved, it is impossible to deny that a remarkable degree of enterprise and energy has been exhibited by many of the members of that association in accomplishing work which, if not actually scientific, is certainly conducive to the progress of science. They cannot indeed rival the men who, following the illustrious example of Saussure, have explored the Alps with the definite object of enlarging the bounds of science ; but, in achieving the preparatory task of opening the way through many of the least accessible parts of the Alpine chain, they have undoubtedly surpassed the performances of all their predecessors. Some useful contributions to the hypsometry of the Alps, and other occasional observations, are probably but the prelude to more considerable performances in the field of science.

PREFACE.

vii

It has for some time been felt that the time had come for attempting to supply to Alpine travellers a guide-book differing in many respects from those hitherto in use, and the writer has been urged, by some of those most capable of contributing to such a work, to undertake the task. He has no claim to a brilliant share in the adventurous performances of his friends and fellow-members of the Alpine Club ; his qualifications, such as they are, arise rather from a somewhat prolonged and extensive acquaintance with the greater portion of the Alps, in the course of which he has crossed the main chain forty-eight times by thirty-two different passes, besides traversing nearly one hundred of the lateral passes.

This work differs from most, if not all, of its predecessors in its plan, which is designed to include the entire region of the Alps, In regard to certain districts the available information is incomplete, but the arrangement is such, that the omissions may be easily supplied hereafter. Besides the preliminary matter contained in the Introduction, a variety of notes and indications connected with geology and botany are scattered through the body of the work, with a view to direct and guide those who feel an interest in those subjects. Detailed notices of the vegetation would occupy too much space, and the botanical indications have for the most part been confined to pointing out localities for the rarest species, chiefly from the writer's personal observation. The article in the Introduction on the Geology of the Alps, which, it is believed, will interest a numerous class of readers, is from the pen of M. Desor, the distinguished Swiss geologist. In translating this essay, the writer has sought to render faithfully the views of M. Desor, which in the main coincide with those of M. Studer and other leading Swiss geologists; but he may be permitted here to say, that on not a few points of theory his own opinions are not in accordance with those of the author. What is certain is, that an extensive field for investigation still remains for future enquiry, and it may be hoped that an essay which for the first time brings together in a connected way the results of past work, will tend to progress, by directing attention to the points still requiring examination.

PREFACE.

The portion of the work now given to the public includes, under the title 6 Western Alps/ the entire range that encircles the plain of Piedmont, from the Maritime Alps north of Nice to the Pass of the Simplon, along with the Dauphine and Savoy Alps, and the portions of Switzerland connected with the Pennine range. This is the portion of the Alps in which the amount of new matter available through tlte activity of the members of the Alpine Club is most considerable, mainly because it includes the portions most difficult of access, and where, owing to the comparative neglect of their predecessors, most remained to be done. The Bernese Alps, and those of Eastern Switzerland, have been pretty well explored by Swiss savans and mountaineers, though room was left to some Englishmen to devise new and adventurous expeditions, and a similar observation applies to the German Alps, which are, at the same time, less difficult of access.

It may be a satisfaction to future travellers if the writer here expresses his conviction that, in spite of all that has yet been done, no portion of the Alps can, in a topographical, and still less in a scientific sense, be said to be thoroughly explored. In districts supposed to be well known, an active mountaineer will constantly find scope for new expeditions ; and if he has cultivated the habit of observation, he may, at the same time, make these subservient to the increase of knowledge.

It has been a matter of great difficulty to reconcile the necessity for compression with the abundance of materials at hand, and the writer cannot expect to escape criticism from readers who may find one or other subject imperfectly treated. Though it is hoped that the work will be found useful for reference, as containing a large body of topographical and other information, it is primarily intended for Alpine travellers, and the object kept in view has been to select the matter most likely to be of use and interest to that class. Had it been designed as a history of Alpine adventure, it would be open to the reproach that it does not adequately notice the labours of earlier explorers, such as Saussure, Hiigi, Zumstein, and many other surviving travellers, nor often refer to the earlier authorities. The writer has perhaps more reason to fear that tra-

PREFACE.

ix vellers may reproach him for having admitted too much matter, than for undue brevity.

In respect to expeditions which have been made but once, or very rarely, the writer has usually given the account in an abridged form, but in the actual words of the traveller whose initials are subscribed, the names being given in full in the annexed page of Explanations.

To the authors of these notes, which have for the most part been communicated in MSS. to the writer, he begs hereby to express his cordial acknowledgements, and his hope that they will continue to furnish further information towards the completion of the work. At the risk of appearing to fail in more special acknowledgement to others who have contributed valuable matter, he feels bound to offer his especial thanks to Messrs. W. Mathews, jun., and F. F. Tuckett, and to the Chanoine Carrel, of Aosta. The two former gentlemen, in particular, have afforded invaluable assistance by the corrections and hints which they are each so well able to afford, and which were the more necessary as the work has been for the most part executed at a distance from England, and with but limited opportunities for consulting works of reference.

Several words not generally admitted in the sense here intended have been employed, along with foreign words having no exact English equivalents. Thus : 6 pedestrian/ ' mountaineering,' ' glissade/ 4 bergfall,' and several others have no other excuse than convenience to justify their introduction.

J. BALL.

AUTHORITIES QUOTED.

The following is a list of the chief authorities quoted in the following work, with the ^initials by which they are distinguished : —

T. F. B. Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton, Bart.

J. J. C. John Jermyn Cowell, Esq.

J. G. Major J. Greenwood.

W. C J. W. C. Jacomb, Esq.

E. L. A Lady.

W. M. William Mathews, jun., Esq.

M. ' Murray's * Handbook for Switzerland, Savor, and Piedmont/

L. S. Rev. Leslie Stephen.

ABBREVIATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS.

The following are the chief abbreviations used in this work : —

hrs., min. — for hours and minutes. When used as a measure of distance, one hour is meant to indicate the distance which a tolerably good walker will traverse in an hour, clear of halts, and having regard to the difficulty of the ground. In cases where there is a considerable difference of height, the measure given is intended as a mean between the time employed in ascending and descending, being greater in the one case and less in the other.

ft., yds. — for feet and yards. The heights of mountains, &c, are given in English feet above the level of the sea, and are generally indicated in the manner usual in scientific books, by the figures being enclosed in brackets, with a short stroke.

m. — for mile. Unless otherwise expressed, distances are given in English statute miles.

rt., 1. — for right and left. The right side of a valley, stream, or glacier, is that lying on the right hand of a person following the downward course of the stream.

The points of the compass are indicated in the usual way. Names of places are referred in the Index to the pages where some useful information respecting them is to be found.

Contents

PAGE

Preface . . . * ▼

Authorities quoted x

Abbreviations and Explanations . . x

Introduction

Art. I. Preliminary Information : Passports— Money — Custom-House

Regulations — Measures — Electric Telegraph — Post-Offices . xix

„ II. Routes for approaching the Alps . . . . . . xxii

„ III. Plan of a Tour . . . . . , . . . . xxvii

„ IV. Modes of Travelling in the Alps xxviii

„ V. Guides and Porters . xxxii

„ VI. Inns . « xxxvi

„ VII. General Advice to Travellers in the Alps xxxix

„ VIII. Advice ro Pedestrians . xliv

„ IX. On Mountaineering ........ xiik

„ X. Climate and Vegetation of the Alps : Chalet Life in the Alps . lvi

„ XI. Alpine Zoology Ixi

„ XII. Meteorology and Hypsometry of the Alps : Instruments used

by Travellers . Ixiv

„ XIII. The Snow Region of the Alps : Glaciers— Avalanches . . lxvi

„ XIV. Geology of the Alps lxxiv

Authorities to be consulted on the Geology of the Alps . . • cxxiv

List of Works on the Alps cxxv

List of Alpine Maps . ... * cxxxiii

Supplementary Notes cxxxvii

Section 1. TENDA DISTRICT

Rte. A. Turin to TCice — Col di Tenda . 3

„ B. Cuneo to Baths of Valdieri r > '

„ C. Baths of Valdieri to Nice, Col delle Cerese t * • • . " 8

„ D. Cuneo to Nice, Col delle Finestre . . . • • • .10 xii

CONTENTS.

Section 2. THE ARGENTIERE DISTRICT

PAGE

Rte. A. Cutieo to Barcelonelte, Col d'Argentiere il

„ B. Cuneo to Barcelonette, by Val Maira 13

„ C. Cuneo to Piazzo, by Val Grana 15

„ D. Saluzzo to Barcelonette — Val Vraita ...... 15

Section 3. BASSES ALPES

Rte. A. Nice to Barcelonette — Valley of the Tinea 17

„ B. Nice to Colmar — Valley of the Var 18

,, C. Colmar to Barcelonette 19

„ D. Barcelonette to Gap or Embrun — Valley of the U bay e . . .19

CHAPTEK II.

COTTIAN ALPS.

Section 4. VISO DISTRICT

Rte. A. Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin — Col de la Traversette . . . .23

„ B. Ascent of Monte Viso — Tour of Monte Viso 27

„ C. Barcelonette to Guilestre — Col de Vars 30

„ D. Barcelonette to St. Veran and Queyras 30

„ E. Castel Delrino to Guilestre, by Col de L^nget and Col de Cristillan . 31

„ F. Castel Delrino to Queyras, by Ponte Chiauale 32

Section 5. WALDENSiAN DISTRICT

Rte. A. Pinerolo to Mont Dauphin — Col de la Croix 34

„ B. Pinerolo to Cesanne — Col de Sestrieres 35

„ C. La Tour de Luserne to Perouse, by Val Angrogna . . . .37

„ D. Perouse to Abries, by the Col d'Abries 37

ft E. Perouse to Pragelas Val de Massel « i; 8

„ F. Perouse to Cesanne, by Rodoret 38

Section 6. GENEVRE DISTRICT

Rte. A. Susa to Briancon — the Mont Genevre . . . . .39

„ B. Queyras to Briancon, by Col dTzouard 40

„ C. Abries to Cesanne 4L

"„ D. Briancon to St. Michel — Col de Galibier . . , . .41

„ E. Briancon to Modane — Mont Thabor 42

„ F. Modane to Cesanne — Tunnel through the Alps . . . .45

CONTENTS. xiii

Section 7. CENIS DISTRICT

PAGE

Rte. A. Chambery to Turin — Mont Cenis 40

„ B. Susa to Bessans — - Roche Melon 52

„ C. Bramans to Susa — Col du Clapier 53

„ D. Bramans to Exilles — Mont d'Ambin 58 „ E. Bardonneche to Bramans, by Rochemolle . » ■. . .58

Chapter III. Dauphine Alps*

Section 8»

OISANS DISTRICT.

Rte. A Brian 9on to Grenoble — Col du Lautaret . , ' ■. » ■.. .62

„ B. La Grave en Oisans to St* Jean de Maurienne — Col de 1'Infernet , 66

„ C. Bourg d'Oisans to St* Jean de Maurienne 67

„ D. Bourg d'Oisans to La Chambre 68

„ E. Bourg d'Oisans to Allevard — Les Sept Laux . * . .70

„ F. Allevard to La Chambre — Pic du Frene * * . » .72

Section 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT

Rte. A. Bourg d'Oisans to La Berarde-^- Valley of the Veneon t ■. .73

„ B. Guilestre to Vallouise — Ascent of the Mont Pelvoux . . .76

„ C. La Berarde to Vallouise, by the Col des Ecrins * . . .79

„ D. La Berarde to Vallouise, by the Col de la Tempe . . > . .81

„ E. La Berarde to Vallouise^ by the Col du Sele . * . . .81 „ F. La Berarde to Vallouise, by the Val Godemar, Col du Sais, Col du

„ G. Vallouise to La Grave en Oisans — Col du Glacier Blanc . . 83

„ H. Vallouise to Monestier — Col de TEchauda 84

„ I. La Grave en Oisans to St. Christophe Col de la Selle . . .85

„ K. Vallouise to Em bran, by the Valleys of the Hautes Alpes . . 85

„ L. Bourg d'Oisans to Grenoble, by La Mure* * > » . .86

„ M. La Mare to La Chappelle in Val Godemar - * * . .88

Section 10. CHAMBERY DISTRICT

Rte. A. Paris to Chambery — Lake of Bourget 91

„ B. Grenoble to Chambery, by the right bank of the Isere . . .93 „ C. Grenoble to Chambery, by Montmelian . . . . .95 xiv

CONTEXTS.

PAGE

Rte. D. Chambery to the Baths of Allevard 96

E. Chambery to Uriage — Ascent of the Belledonne . . . .98 ,, F. Chamberv to Grenoble, by the Grande Chartreuse .... 100 „ G. Chambery to Pont de Beauvoisin, by Aiguebellette . . . . 103 H. Aix les Bains to Chatelard — Beauges Mountains .... 105

„ I. Chatelard to Chamberv 106

„ K. Chatelard to Albertville 108

•„ L. Chatelard to Annecy . . , . , , . , 108

Section 11. TARENTAISE DISTRICT

Rte. A. Chambery to Bourg St. Maurice . . . . . . .110

„ B. Bourg St. Maurice to Lanslebourg, by the Col d'lseran . . . 113 „ C. Tignes to Moutiers Tarentaise, or Bourg St. Maurice, by the Col du

Palet — Ascent of the Mont Pound 117

„ D. Tignes to Lanslebourg, by the Col de la Leisse .... 120 „ E, Moutiers Tarentaise to Lanslebourg, by the Col de la Vanoise —

Ascent of the Grande Casse . 120

„ F. Pralognan to Modane, by the Col de Chaviere, or Col d'Aussois . 124 ,. G. St. Michel to Moutiers Tarentaise ....... 126

., H. St. Jean de Maurienne to Moutiers Tarentaise, by the Col de la

Platiere , 127

„ I. La Chambre to Moutiers Tarentaise or Albertville, by the Col de la

Section 12. ALBERTVILLE DISTRICT

Rte. -A. Albertville to Sallanches — Mont Joli . . . . . . 129

,, B. Albertville to Annecy 130

C. Annecy to Bonneville 132

„ D. Annecy to Sallanches or Cluses . 133

,, E. Albertville to St. Gervais, by the Valley of Beaufort . . . 131

„ F. Albertville to Bourg St. Maurice, by Beaufort 135

„ G. St. Maxime de Beaufort to Moutiers Tarentaise . . . . 136

Section 13. LEVANNA DISTRICT

Rte. A. Turin to Lanslebourg, by Lanzo and Groscavallo . ... . 139

„ B. Bonneval to Ceresole — Ascent of the Levanna .... 141

., C. Ceresole to Lanzo and Turin, by the Col della Crocetta . . . 143

„ D. Lanzo to Lanslebourg, by Ala and the Col du Collarin . . . J43

„ E. Lanzo to Lanslebourg, by Viii . 145

„ F. Passes to and from the Val di Viii 146

CONTENTS,

XV

Section 14. PARADIS DISTRICT

PAGE

Rte. A. Turin to Aosta, by the Val Soanaand Val de Cogne Ascent of the

Grivola 148

„ B. Aosta to Cogne, by the Becea di Nona and Col d'Arbole . . . 153

„ C. Aosta to Cogne, by the Mjont Emilius and the Val de Grauson . 155

„ D. Cogne to Bard, by the Fenetre de Cogne ...... 156

„• E. Ponte to Tignes, by the Col de Galese ...... 157

„ F. Ceresole to Villeneuve in Val d' Aosta — Ascent of the Grand Paradis 159

„ G P Cogne to Ceresole Col de Grancrou . . . t , . 162

Section 15. RUITOR DISTRICT

Rte. A. Bourg St. Maurice to Aosta — Pass of the Little St. Bernard . . 163

„ B. La Thuile to Sainte Foi— Ascent of the Ruitor . . . .166

„ C. Ivrogne to Sainte Foi, by the Val Grisanche . . . . . 169

„ D. Tignes to Aosta, by the Col de Gailietta and the Val de Rhemes . 171

Section 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT

Rte. A, Paris t© Chamouni, by Geneva — Excursions from Chamouni , 177

„ B. Chamouni to Courmayeur, by the Col du Bonhomme . . . 194

„ C. Sallanches to Contamines and Courmayeur, by St. Gervais . .201

„ D. Courmayeur to Contamines, by the Col de Trelatete . , . 203

„ E Ghamouni to Courmayeur, by the Col de Miage ..... 204

„ F. Chamouni to Courmayeur, by the Col du Geant ..... 206

„ G. Ascent of Mont Blanc . " 209

„ H. Chamouni to Martigny 216

„ I. Chamouni to Orsieres, by the Col de Champey .... 219

„ K. Orsieres to Courmayeur, by the Col de Ferrex .... 220

„ L. Chamouni to Orsieres, by the Col d'Argentiere . . . .221

M M. Chamouni to Orsieres, by Jthe Glacier du Tour . .... 223

Section 17. SIXT DISTRICT

Rte. A. Geneva to Sixt, by Tanninges 225

„ B. Geneva to Sixt, by Cluses, or St. Martin 228

„ C. Sixt to Chamouni, by Servoz 229

„ D. Sixt to Chamouni — Ascent of the Buet 230

„ E. Sixt to Martigny, by Salvent 232

„ F. Samoens to Champery and Monthey 234

„ G. Sixt to Champery 235

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Kte. H. Champery to Martigny — Ascent of the Dent du Midi . . . 286

„ I. Geneva to St. Maurice, by Thonou 237

„ K. Bonneville to Thonon 239

,, L. Thonon to Samoens . . .241

„ M. Thonon to Champer}', or to Monthey . ... 241

Section 18

GREAT ST. BERNARD DISTRICT.

Rte. A. Geneva to Aosta, by Martigny and the Great St. Bernard . . 244 „ B. Hospice of the Great St. Bernard to Courmayeur .... 254 „ C. St. Pierre to Aosta, by the Col de Menouve — Ascent of the Mont

Velan 255

„ D. Martigny to Aosta, by the Yal de Bagnes and the Col de Fenetre . 257 ,, E. Chables to St Pierre, by the Col de la Maison Blanche — Ascent of

the Grand Combin 260

., F. St. Pierre to Chermontane. by the Col de Sonadon * 263 „ G. Aosta to Zermatt, bv the Val Pellina and the Col de la ValPellina 264

„ H. St. barthelemi to the Val Pellina . . 267

„ I. Prarayen to Val Tournanche, or Breuil, by the Col de Vacornere —

Ascent of the Chateau des Dames 2G8

„ K. Chermontane to Praraven, bv the Glacier d'Otemma — Ascent of

the Mont Gele . 269

,. L. Chermontane to Evolena, by the Col de Chermontane . . . 272 „ M. Chermontane to Evolena, or to Here'mence, by the Col du Mont Rouge 273

Section 19. EVOLENA DISTRICT

Rte. A. Sion to Aosta, by the Val d'Herens and Col de Collon . . . 275

„ B. Evolena to Prarayen, by the Col des Bouqnetins .... 278

„ C Sion to the Val de Bagnes, by the Val d'Heremence . . . 279

„ D. Evolena to Zermatt, by the Col d'Herens— Ascent of the Dent Blanche 280

„ E. Sierre to Zermatt, by the Val d*Anniviers and the Trif't Joch . 282

„ F. Zinal to Zermatt, by the Col Durand, or Col de la Dent Blanche . 285

,, G. Evolena to Vissoie, by the Val de Torrent 286

„ H. Evolena to Zinal, by the Col de Sorebois 287

„ I. Vissoie to Turtman^ by the Pas de Bceuf and the Turtman Thai . 288

„ K. St. Luc to St. Niklaus, by the Z'meiden Pass and the Jung Joch . 289

Section 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT

Rte. A. Visp to Zermatt^- Excursions from Zermatt 292

„ B. Zermatt to Ivrea, by the Val Tournanche — Col de St. Theodule —

Breithorn — Matterhorn > 305

„ C. Zermatt to Verrex, by the Schwarz Thor and the Val d'Ayas . 309 „ D. Zermatt to Pont St. Martin, by the Lys Joch, or Zwillinge Joch,

and the Val de Lys . . oil

„ E. Zermatt to Varallo,* by the Sesia Joch and the Val Sesia . . 314 „ F. Zermatt to Vogogna, by the Weiss Thor and the Val Anzasca . 318 G. Tour of Monte Rosa, ty the High Glacier Passes .... 322 „ H. Valtournanche to Macugnaga, by the Middle Passes . , . . 324

„ I. Aosta to Ponte Grande, bv the Lower Passes 327

„ K. Ivrea to Orta, by B;ella 330

„ L. Orta to Ponte Grande, by the Val Mastalone .... 332

„ M. Orta to Ponte Grande, by the Val Strona 333

„ N. VisD to Macugnaga, by the Monte Moro 333

„ O. Saas to Zermatt, by the Saas Grat » 336

„ P. Saas to St. Niklaus* by the Ried Pass 339

CONTENTS.

xvii

Section 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT

PAGE

Rte. A. Martigny to Arona — Pass of the Simplon . . . . 341

„ B. Domo d'Ossola to Arona, by Orta . 349

„ C. Saas to the Simplon Hospice — Ascent of the Fletschhorn . . 350 „ D. Saas to Tsella by the Zwischbergen Pass— Ascent of the Weissmies 350

„ E. Saas to Domo d'Ossola, by the ValBugnanco Sol

„ F. Saas to Domo d'Ossola, by the Val Antrona 352

Index of Peaks or Mountains 353