Eastern experiences, collected during a winter's tour in Egypt and the Holy Land

CHAPTER I. Malta

Departure from England. — Floods everywhere. — Compelled to post from Chalons to Lyons. — Pont de Saint Esprit. — Porters of Avignon. — Arrival at Marseilles. — Southern Sunshine. — Quarantine Harbour of Malta - - Page 1

CHAP. II. Alexandria

Land Ahead ! — First glimpse of Egypt. — Custom-House. — Donkey-boys. — The Bazaars. — Sai'd Pasha. — Mahmoudieh Canal. — Landing at Boulac. — Fete of the Doseh - 9

CHAP. m.

Cairo.

The Turkish Bazaar. — Europeans' first Ambition on Arrival in Cairo. — Interior of a Mosque. — The El-Azhar. — An awkward Position - - - - - 22 vi

CONTENTS.

CHAP. IV. Caieexe Bazaars

Shopping in Cairo. — The Mussulman Butcher. — The Vendor of Crockery. — Chicanery severely punished. — Cairene Justice. — I\lustapha the Cook. — The " Buchsheesh "-loving Cadi ------ Page 33

CHAP. V. The Hareem

Poetry of Eastern Life. — Coffee Shops. — Lulu the Circassian Slave. — Her Adventures. — Her Capture. — The Women's Prison. — Selim and Naba. — Xaba thrown into Prison. — What the Italian Druggist saw. — Xaba's Death. — The Hareem abroad. — Courtship in Cairo. — The Rumeyleh.

CHAP. VI. Preparations for the Nile Voyage

The Author finds a Friend. — We engage a Dragoman.— Origin of Dragomen. — Ibrahim is introduced to the Reader. — Selection of a Dahabieh. — We lay in Stores for our Voyage. — Our Dragoman's Talents discovered to be but Shadows. — Babel at Boulak. — Moor for the Xight under the Island of Ehoda - - - - - - - 60

CHAP. VII. Nile Life

An Elysium on Earth. — Creeping Things innumerable. — Sketch of our daily Life. — An Arab Fight. — Nile Breezes. — Society on the Nile. — Benisoueff. — Arab Gratitude. — Abda the black Cook - - - - - - 70

CONTENTS.

CHAP. YIII.

KoLSAN Palms.

Sunset at Kolsan. — The Howadji pry into their own Affairs. — Dangers of Gebel Aboofeyda. — Our first Meeting with some Polish jSToblemen is a foul one. — Manfaloot. — Banks of the Nile after Nightfall.— The Vulture's Meal - Page 81

Chap. IX. Osioot

The Governor's Palace. — The Bazaars. — The Barber of Osioot.

— Yiew from Stabl Antar. — The Bread-baking. — Bread Dreams. — An Arab Breakfast. — A fresh Breeze. — We attempt to "get up" fine Linen. — Wonders of Denderah. — The Inscription on the Portico - - - - 89

CHAP. X. Thebes

Eeception at Thebes. — Valley of Death. — Belzoni's Tomb. — Old Egyptians' Method of Self-perpetuation. — Bas-reliefs. — - The Bones of Rameses. — Plain of Thebes. — Medeenet Haboo.

— Tombs of the Assaseef. — Southwards - - 103

Chap. XI. Esne

Temple at Esne. — A Coffee Shop. — Ghawazee. — Description of the Dance. — One other jpas, — Their Expulsion from Cairo. — The Viceroy's Visit to Esne. — His Reception of the Ghawazee - - - - - -118

CHAP. XII. Ibrahim

Our Dragoman gets out on the wrong Side of his Bed. — His Notions of Cleanliness. — Matters brought to a Crisis. — Ibravm

CONTEXTS.

him leaves us. — Our Efforts to do without him. — Com-Ombo. — Arrival at Assouan. — Ibrahim receives us on landing. — The Cadi of Assouan — his Sentence. — We are applauded by the Crowd - Page 127