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How I worked my way around the world

Harry Steele Morrison · 1903 · Scanned text · Free in the US

167,067 words · about 11 h 42 min to read

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About this book

Author
Harry Steele Morrison
Language
English
Published
1903
Length
167,067 words · about 11 h 42 min
Sections
86 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public domain in the United States

 

Contents (86)
  1. Front matter under 1 min
  2. Introduction about 3 min
  3. Foreword about 2 min
  4. CHAPTER III Experiences in New York under 1 min
  5. CHAPTER IV .Working My Passage under 1 min
  6. CHAPTER V London Days and Doings under 1 min
  7. Chapter VI under 1 min
  8. CHAPTER VII An Audience with Queen Victoria under 1 min
  9. CHAPTER VIII A Tour Through England and Scotland under 1 min
  10. CHAPTER IX From London Through Belgium to Brussels under 1 min
  11. CHAPTER X The Capital of Belgium— Adventure in the Royal Palace under 1 min
  12. CHAPTER XI Through Northern Belgium and Holland to Germany under 1 min
  13. CHAPTER XII Along the River Rhine under 1 min
  14. CHAPTER XIII Two Monarchs at Close Range under 1 min
  15. CHAPTER XIV A Fairyland of Lovely Scenery under 1 min
  16. CHAPTER XV Adventures Among the Alps under 1 min
  17. CHAPTER XVi Through Western Switzerland into France under 1 min
  18. CHAPTER XVII Experiences in Paris under 1 min
  19. CHAPTER XVIII With President Faure at the Elysee Palace under 1 min
  20. CHAPTER XIX Through Rural France under 1 min
  21. CHAPTER XX Last Days in London under 1 min
  22. CHAPTER XXI Home Again under 1 min
  23. CHAPTER XXII The Second Trip Abroad under 1 min
  24. CHAPTER XXIII Incidents of the Voyage— In "Herrie England" Once Again under 1 min
  25. CHAPTER XXIV The King of Sweden at a Sailors' ilission under 1 min
  26. CHAPTER XXV At the Great Paris Exposition under 1 min
  27. CHAPTER XXVI Off for the Passion Play under 1 min
  28. Chapter XXVII under 1 min
  29. CHAPTER XXVIII From Innsbruck to Ober-Ammergau under 1 min
  30. CHAPTER XXIX The riorning of the Passion Play under 1 min
  31. CHAPTER XXX Finish of the Passion Play — Off to See the Castles under 1 min
  32. CHAPTER XXXI From riunich to Rome under 1 min
  33. CHAPTER XXXII An Audience with the Pope under 1 min
  34. CHAPTER XXXIII From Rome to Paris and Home Again under 1 min
  35. CHAPTER XXXVII Life in the Forecastle under 1 min
  36. CHAPTER XXXVIII A Day and a Night in Gibraltar under 1 min
  37. CHAPTER XXXIX An Excursion into Africa under 1 min
  38. CHAPTER XL Through the Mediterranean under 1 min
  39. CHAPTER XLI The Historic Island of Malta under 1 min
  40. CHAPTER XLII From Valletta to Port Said about 7 min
  41. CHAPTER I Starting Out Into the World about 13 min
  42. CHAPTER II First Traveling Experiences about 27 min
  43. CHAPTER IV Working My Passage about 14 min
  44. CHAPTER V London Days and Doings about 13 min
  45. CHAPTER VI An Interview with Hr. Gladstone about 14 min
  46. CHAPTER VII An Audience with Queen Victoria about 14 min
  47. CHAPTER VIII A Tour Through England and Scotland about 14 min
  48. CHAPTER IX From London Through Belgium to Brussels about 14 min
  49. CHAPTER X Adventure in the Royal Palace at Brussels about 13 min
  50. CHAPTER XI Through Belgium and Holland to Germany about 14 min
  51. CHAPTER XII Along the River Rhine about 12 min
  52. CHAPTER XIII Two Monarchs at Close Range about 9 min
  53. CHAPTER XIV A Fairyland of Lovely Scenery about 13 min
  54. CHAPTER XV Adventures Among the Alps about 9 min
  55. CHAPTER XVI Through Western Switzerland Into France about 12 min
  56. CHAPTER XVII Experiences in Paris about 15 min
  57. CHAPTER XVIII With President Faure at the Elys£e Palace about 9 min
  58. CHAPTER XIX Through Rural France about 11 min
  59. CHAPTER XX Last Days in London about 9 min
  60. CHAPTER XXI Home Again about 8 min
  61. CHAPTER XXII The Second Trip Abroad about 23 min
  62. CHAPTER XXIV The King of Sweden at a Sailors' Hission about 10 min
  63. CHAPTER XXV At the Qreat Paris Exposition about 13 min
  64. CHAPTER XXVI Off for the Passion Play about 10 min
  65. CHAPTER XXVII Tyrolean Days about 19 min
  66. CHAPTER XXVIII From Innsbruck to Ober=Ammergau about 10 min
  67. CHAPTER XXIX The Morning of the Passion Play about 10 min
  68. CHAPTER XXX Finish of the Passion Play — Off to See the Castles about 13 min
  69. CHAPTER XXXI From flunich to Rome about 11 min
  70. CHAPTER XXXII An Audience with the Pope about 19 min
  71. CHAPTER XXXIV Planning a Trip Around the World about 10 min
  72. CHAPTER XXXV Away to the Orient about 10 min
  73. CHAPTER XXXVI First Days as "Jimmy Legs" about 10 min
  74. CHAPTER XXXVII Life in the Forecastle about 10 min
  75. CHAPTER XXXVIII A Day and a Night in Gibraltar about 10 min
  76. CHAPTER XXXIX An Excursion Into Africa about 12 min
  77. CHAPTER XL Through the flediterranean about 20 min
  78. CHAPTER XLII From Valletta to Port Said about 22 min
  79. CHAPTER XLIV Beautiful Cairo about 10 min
  80. CHAPTER XLV Visits to the Pyramids about 10 min
  81. CHAPTER XLVI The Shah of Persia about 10 min
  82. CHAPTER XLVII Through the Red Sea to Aden about 9 min
  83. CHAPTER XLVIII Mid Oriental Squalor about 10 min
  84. CHAPTER XLIX The Hottest Town in the World about 11 min
  85. CHAPTER L In Ceylon's Sunny Isle about 10 min
  86. CHAPTER LI Pleasant Days in Colombo about 1 h 50 min

Continue:

Front matter

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Introduction

R. MORRISON has asked me to write a few words of introduction to the narrative of his experiences, and I am glad to do so, though, to my )mind, no introduction is needed. His story speaks for itself. It is the record of a young man who has achieved unusual success in traveling, and in gaining access to notable persons throughout the world. It shows what may be accomplished when a youth starts out with a determination to win, and to leave no stone unturned until he accomplishes his ambition. Mr. Morrison desired to gain experience with the world, and he gained it in the proper way. Men and women were glad to assist him, because they could see that he deserved to be helped. There was nothing loud or audacious about him when he sought interviews with the great ones of the world. He always knew perfectly what he wanted, and he wasted no time in having it understood. He had confidence in himself and in his success, and faith that every one would help him on, and these qualities in a boy are singularly attractive.

It would not be at all safe for other boys to undertake what he was able to accomplish, for in nine cases out of ten they would not come out so well. Mr. Morrison himself would be unwilling to start again from Chicago with twenty-five dollars in his pocket, to travel through Europe, and he would not advise others to emulate his example.

But there are other things that boys can do in order to gain a foothold in their chosen profession. It isn't necessary to travel in order to get on in the world, for many of the most successful men have never moved far from their native towns. Many of us who think we are poor, are rich in opportunities if we could only see them, in possibilities all about us, in faculties worth more than riches, in power to do good. In the large Eastern cities, it has been found that at least ninety-four out of every hundred found their first fortune at home, or near at hand, and in meeting common, every-day wants. It is a sorry day for a young man who cannot see any opportunities where he is, but thinks he can do better

xix

INTRODUCTION

somewhere else. The story is told of several Brazilian shepherds, who organized a party to go to California to dig gold, and who took along a handful of clear pebbles with which to play checkers on the voyage. They discovered upon their arrival at Sacramento, when they had. thrown most of the pebbles away, that they had been playing with diamonds. They hastened back to Brazil, only to find that the rich diamond mines had been taken up by others.

Professor Agassiz used to tell the students at Harvard of a farmer who owned a stretch of hundreds of acres of unprofitable woods and rocks, and who concluded to sell out and try some more remunerative business. He studied' coal measures and petroleum deposits, and experimented for a long time. He sold his farm for two hundred dollars, and went into the oil business two hundred miles away. Only a short time afterward the man who bought the farm discovered a great flood of petroleum, which the farmer had ignorantly tried to drain off.

Every young man should look about him and see what he can do for himself and for others. Few boys are able to travel around the world, but every boy can attend school and college, and there acquire the foundations of true success. It must be borne in mind that the great things of the world have not been done by men of large means. Want has been the great schoolmaster of the American race : necessity has been the mother of most great inventions. There is power lying" latent everywhere, waiting for the observant eye to discover it.

Mr. Morrison's simple story should be an object lesson ; it teaches that with the foundation of good character and habits, with industry and courage, the young American who is early thrown upon his own resources, can rise through perseverance and make a success in life.

RUSSELL SAGE.

Foreword

In all our decisions and actions, it would be well for us to remember the suggestive inscription that was written on the gates of Busyrane. As the traveler entered that ancient city, he read on the first gate, "Be boldf and on the second gate, "Be bold, be bold, and evermore be boldf and then he paused as he read on the third gate, "Be not too bold/"

— Emerson.

HEN I first began to travel, I found that the above paragraph from Emerson was an excellent one to bear in mind. I discovered that as long as I had f c confidence in my ability to get along, people were glad and willing to assist me in accomplishing my ambition, and that when I was discouraged and hopeless, everyone seemed only too ready to help along that feeling, also. Therefore, I acquired the habit of being bold — of trying things, whether I was confident of success, or not. I sought to impress it upon people with whom I came in contact, that my object in traveling was not to seek adventure, but to gain an education, and the great men and women whom I interviewed were usually glad to encourage me in my plan. Probably I would not have fared so well had I been older ; so I have never regretted that I started out at sixteen, for I was then at an age to be deeply impressed with all that I experienced in foreign lands.

The narrative of these experiences is written, in the hope that they may serve as an inspiration to young men and women who find it difficult to get on in their chosen occupations. " When you get in a tight place and everything goes against you, till it seems as if you could not hold on a minute longer," said Harriet Beecher Stowe, " never give up then, for that's just the place and time that the tide'll turn."

It is possible, of course, to be too bold and too persistent. The fortunate person is he who can combine perseverance with tact and discretion, and who not only knows what to do, but when to do it. Such a one may travel anywhere without fear of difficulty.

Some of the photographs used as illustrations were taken on my journeys. For many of the others I am indebted to Rensselaer W. Cox, Esq., of Chicago.

New York City, Nov. I, 1903. /y

CHAPTER I Starting Out into the World

The Sabbath in a small town — Boyish desires and ambitions — Breaking home ties — My first position 33

CHAPTER II First Traveling Experiences

Homesick days in Chicago — Earning some extra money — Planning a trip abroad — A new idea — With the President of the United States 39

CHAPTER III Experiences in New York

Alone in the metropolis — In the office of a great newspaper — Featured as " The Boy Reporter" — A great surprise — A visit to the office of a millionaire — Seeking work — First discouragements — A cloud with a silver lining 48

CHAPTER IV .Working My Passage

First day at sea — The nature of my work — Troubles of a pantry-boy — Incidents of the voyage — Misery of the mal de mer — My companions in the "glory-hole" — A thrilling escape — A hurried departure from the ship 55

CHAPTER V London Days and Doings

In the world's greatest city — Plans for the future — My home in London — Difficulties of the English currency — The Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria — A great day — First glimpse of royalty — Behavior of the London crowd — A night of fashionable life 61

Chapter VI

An Interview with Mr. Gladstone

The way in which I earned some money — Seeking an interview with Mr. Gladstone — A discouraging reply — In Hawarden village — Turned away at the door — How I finally succeeded — A great statesman at close range — More than repaid for my effort — A model Christian gentleman — His record clear 67

CHAPTER VII An Audience with Queen Victoria

Glimpses of the Queen in public — Desire for a personal interview — Mr. Gladstone's aid — The Lord Chamberlain — An unfriendly reception — Better news — A glorious prospect — A day to be remembered — In the presence of royalty — What we talked

about — A queenly Queen — A dignified departure 78

xxiii

CHAPTER VIII A Tour Through England and Scotland

The beautiful Lake District of England — The vale of Grasmere — An historic neighborhood — British workmen and their methods — How they spend the Sabbath — The ownership of land — Great country estates — Prices of farming lands — The home of Robert Burns — The Scotch metropolis — Historic Glasgow Cathedral — The beauties of Edinburgh — Melrose Abbey and Abbottsford — The York Cathedral — A gorgeous Christian temple — Back to my London home 86

CHAPTER IX From London Through Belgium to Brussels

The misery of a London fog — An uncomfortable voyage — In a queer predicament — Looking for a place to sleep — A pantomimic conversation — First morning in a strange land — A poor pedestrian — The main-traveled road — Beware of the dogs — Bruges and Ghent 93

CHAPTER X The Capital of Belgium— Adventure in the Royal Palace

" Petit Paris " — Expensive cup of chocolate — The Brussels Exhibition — How lace is made — Where the work is done — Newfoundland dogs at work — A visit to King Leopold — Held for examination — An interpreter to the rescue — A surprising invitation — Lack of regal ceremony — The friendly King 100

CHAPTER XI Through Northern Belgium and Holland to Germany

The road to Antwerp — The rural Belgian peasantry — Increased expense — The cathedral and its great paintings — A city of beggars — Pleasant anticipations — A chance to earn some money — The home of beautiful flowers — The delightful capital of Holland — First ride on a continental railway — Arrival in Cologne — Homesick — Rainy days and how they were spent — Difficulties of the language — Disappointing taffy 108

CHAPTER XII Along the River Rhine

Characteristics of Cologne — The river disappointing at first — Bonn, the schoolboy home of German royalty — The glories of the scenery — Cheap living — The " Home for the Friendless" — A toilet on the roof — Pleasant days 'mid pleasant scenes 115

CHAPTER XIII Two Monarchs at Close Range

A bit of interesting news — Homburg, one of the most famous resorts in Europe — The army of an empire — A great spectacle — An audience with the German Emperor — In _ Old Heidelberg — The University — A Sabbath in Germany — Frankfort-on-the- Main — Rothschild's first banking-room — The Lutherhaus — Ignorance of some Americans abroad — Strange comments 123

CHAPTER XIV A Fairyland of Lovely Scenery

Into the land of the Alps — The city of Basle — Farewell to the Rhine — German feather-beds — Scenery more beautiful than I had dreamed of — From Basle to Lucerne — * Morning among the mountains — A magnificent panorama — Up the Rigi on foot — A long and interesting climb — Night and morning among the clouds — A glorious sunrise — Through the glacier region 128

CHAPTER XV Adventures Among the Alps

The Swiss peasantry — Visits to out-of-the-way places — I become an explorer — Away from the beaten path — Lost in the high mountains — A dangerous position — In the "Valley of Death" — Efforts to find a way out — A haven of *est 136

CHAPTER XVi Through Western Switzerland into France

Down Lake Thun to Berne — The capital of the Swiss Confederacy — Peculiar construction of the streets — The famous clock — A visit to the Swiss Parliament in session — A polyglot body — The office of the President — A mutual surprise — Our conversation — First experiences in France — Disappointment with the weather and the people — The drudgery of women in France — Inhospitable peasantry — Sick and impoverished, on to Paris 140

CHAPTER XVII Experiences in Paris

The state of my fortunes — Setting up light-housekeeping — No money from America — Almost penniless — Looking for work — Settlement of my financial difficulties — What I thought of Paris — The historic Champ de Mars — Past and present — The most beautiful church in Paris — The tomb of Napoleon and its grandeur 146

CHAPTER XVIII With President Faure at the Elysee Palace

The remarkable career of a poor boy — Residence of the French President — An encounter with the soldiers — A valuable observation — A bold scheme which proves successful — Interesting information — Departure in a state carriage 153

CHAPTER XIX Through Rural France

Universal politeness among the French — Some question of its sincerity — Impositions on the unsuspecting foreigner — Picturesque villages and their natives — Dress of the peasantry — Milk and wine — A typical country inn — French cemeteries — Strange communion customs — A seashore resort in winter — Cave dwellers at home — Good-bye to France 159

CHAPTER XX Last Days in London

Prosperous days — Adding to my savings — Notable persons — A visit to the Lord Mayor of London — A session of the Mansion House Court — A seat of honor — Experiences in the fog — Home as a first-class passenger — End of the tour through Europe 165

CHAPTER XXI Home Again

In New York once more — A reporter at the pier — Visit to the editor — A kindly railroad president — Off for Illinois — Retrospect of the trip — Expenses — A happy home-coming — Christmas with my mother — What of the future?. 172

CHAPTER XXII The Second Trip Abroad

At work in New York — A pleasant place in which to live — Bad news from home — The desire to travel again — " Signing on " as a steamship helper — Busy scenes of sailing time — " Pierpont " and his peculiarities — Our work in the steerage — Serving the passengers — Extra work 176

CHAPTER XXIII Incidents of the Voyage— In "Herrie England" Once Again

Feeding the " Bloods " — A remarkable system for defrauding the company and. the passengers — Taking " Rosie " for a walk_ — The friendly Chief Steward — Started for London — Across England by rail — Visiting old friends — Prospects in Paris 182

CHAPTER XXIV The King of Sweden at a Sailors' ilission

An unusual reign — The personality of King Oscar — His democratic ways — A steady traveler — The King's home near London — Sunday morning at the Seamen's Mission — Dinner with the sailors — An unassuming monarch at home — The King's earnest Christian life — His interest in the poor 187

CHAPTER XXV At the Great Paris Exposition

Across the Channel — Settled in Paris for several weeks — First visit to the Exposition — In the Champ de Mars again — Corn cakes and molasses — The nature of my work — Second visit to the Elysee Palace — Emile Loubet a democratic President — Once a farmer's boy , 194

CHAPTER XXVI Off for the Passion Play

Round about the Exposition — Sights of the side-shows — Leaving our friends and our Paris home — The people one meets in a third-class railway carriage — My second visit to Basle — Interesting journey ahead 202

Chapter XXVII

First days among the Alps — Zurich, the Swiss metropolis — In the Tyrol — The most beautiful district in Europe — Planning a pedestrian tour — An unfortunate beginning — The friendly mcnks — Shut in from the world — Life in a monastery 207

CHAPTER XXVIII From Innsbruck to Ober-Ammergau

Our Austrian friends — Over a precipice — A lucky escape — The routine of our daily life — Early to bed and early to rise — Milks strange cows along the road — Through the highlands of Bavaria — Arrival in Ober-Ammergau 218

CONTKNTS

CHAPTER XXIX The riorning of the Passion Play

A picturesque and busy town — The quest for seats — A place to stay — In the village church on Sabbath morning — The scene of the play — The auditorium — Beginning of the play — The make-up of the chorus — First impressions — The progress of the performance 223

CHAPTER XXX Finish of the Passion Play — Off to See the Castles

Startling realism of the play — Rapid sequence of events in the life of Christ — The scene on Calvary — The audience greatly moved — A memorable performance — Linderhof Castle — Walking in the rain — Neuschwanstein, the most beautiful castle in Europe — Hohenschwangau 230

CHAPTER XXXI From riunich to Rome

Determination to see the Pope — Assistance from an unexpected quarter — From Fussen to Weilheim — The capital of Bavaria — The journey to Rome — Discomfort of Italian railways — In the Eternal City — First visit to the Vatican 238

CHAPTER XXXII An Audience with the Pope

Some of the Pope's visitors — Rules to be observed at the audiences — In the salon d'atteiitc — Furnishings of the Pope's reception room — Leo XIII. at close range — Appearance of the Pontiff — A saintly life — Moral character of the Pope 243

CHAPTER XXXIII From Rome to Paris and Home Again

Last days in Paris — With old " Mammy " once again — Fontainebleau — Good-bye to our friends — The ancient city of Rouen — Some English boys and their troubles — London and Paris compared — Homeward bound 249

CHAPTER XXXVII Life in the Forecastle

Eating in the mess-room — My companions there — Ideas about water-tenders and their work — What the food was like — The peculiarities of the sailing-master — Trouble begins to brew — My friend Timmie 269

CHAPTER XXXVIII A Day and a Night in Gibraltar

First view of " the Rock " — Spaniards' view of the war with Spain — Delicious fruit in the markets — A talk with the hero of Ladysmith — Gibraltar at night — Concert of the British band — A jolly time among the. " Tommies " — Shut in for the night. . . . 274

CHAPTER XXXIX An Excursion into Africa

Trouble with the sailing-master — Plans of the Congressmen — An unexpected privilege — Meeting with the Eddy boys — Arrival in Tangier — A warm reception — A price of admission — In front of a Mohammedan mosque — A runaway donkey — Our hurried departure 281

CHAPTER XL Through the Mediterranean

A tough job — Searching for the missing sailors — Heroic measures necessary — The worst to come — Overboard in Gibraltar Bay — A lesson learned — Pleasant evenings on the fo'c'stle head — Sailors' yarns — The crew and the passengers — Sips of the Mediterranean Sea — Our experience with the men-of-war 289

CHAPTER XLI The Historic Island of Malta

Sunday afternoon on shipboard — The harbor of Valletta — Trouble with the Maltese pedlers — A lively party of sightseers — A visit to the scene of St. Paul's shipwreck — Cave of the Apostle — The weird Chapel of Bones — British and American soldiers — Singing in the street 294

CHAPTER XLII From Valletta to Port Said

Dreary entertainments by the English — Absence of Maltese cats in Malta — Deserters from the^ British Army — An unpleasant duty — My friends among the passengers — The most wicked city in the world — Music on the water — The German troop-ship... 301

CHAPTER XLHI

Through the Suez to Ismailia and Cairo

What the great canal is like — Expensive toll for steamers — Slow progress toward Ismailia — Troubles of a policeman on the fo'c'stle head — News about a trip to Cairo — A bit of luck for me — Off for the city of the Caliphs — Through an historic country — Egyptian villages — Lack of food and drink 308

CHAPTER XL V Beautiful Cairo

A busy railway terminus — In search of the Pyramids — An excellent system of trolleys — Beautiful streets and buildings — A fascinating panorama — Visit to a mosque — Friendly Englishmen 316

CHAPTER XLV

Visits to the Pyramids

A memorable ride by trolley — The pyramids by moonlight — A camel ride — Inspiring scene — A morning ride by donkeys — Street scenes — A Moslem wedding — A chance to see the Shah 321

CHAPTER XLVI

The Shah of Persia

Attendants of his Majesty — A quick reception — The Shah at dinner — A lively conversation — Characteristics of Persia's ruler — His visit to the Gobelin's Tapestry Museum in Paris — A great lover of children — Besieged by them in Brussels 328

CHAPTER XLVII

Through the Red Sea to Aden

Return to the ship — Monotony of life on the transport — No ice on board — Terrible heat of the Red Sea weather — Sleeping on deck — Sufferings of the firemen — The advantage of keeping busy — Aden at last 333

CHAPTER XLVHI

'Mid Oriental Squalor

_ Britain as a world power — Sentiments of the assistant messman — First landing in Asia — Impressions of Steamer Point — The shiny Somalis — Popularity of red hair — On camel-back to Aden — A thrilling ride — All's well that ends well 337

CHAPTER XLIX

The Hottest Town in the World

A dirty and interesting place — News of the heat at home — Strange shops and their wares — Orange-haired Somalis numerous — Off for Colombo across the Indian Ocean — Exchange of international courtesies — In the track of the southwest Monsoon — Another attack of the mal de mer — A general drenching — The love of the sea 344

CHAPTER L

In Ceylon's Sunny Isle

• First view of the lovely shore — Sniffing for spicy breezes — French and German transports — The pedlers and their wares — Singalese jewelry — The original brownies — Diving boys — The songs they sang — Queer Singalese boats 349

CHAPTER LI

Pleasant Days in Colombo

Ashore in a catamaran — Trolley cars and their appearances — First ride in a jinrikisha — Life of the 'rikisha men — Residences of the foreign population — The natives and their ways — A varied population — The attractive beach — A friendly English boy — The feeling of caste among the natives — Singalese laundry methods • — A delightful evening 356

CHAPTER LII

The Original Garden of Eden

Railways in Ceylon — Tropical vegetation along the railway track — Up among the hills — The air deliciously pure and cool — Scenery in the neighborhood of Kandy — The famous Betanical Gardens — How coffee is grown — The shrine of the tooth of Buddha. 361

CHAPTER LIII

The kindness of Mr. Casey — With the Governor of Ceylon — He grants us the desired permission — Off for Diyatalawa — How the prisoners were kept in camp — Accommodations of the Boers — How they amused themselves — Famous men among the prisoners — Boys who were far from home — Back to the transport and the midnight watch 366

CHAPTER LIV

From Ceylon to Singapore

A delayed sailing — Christian work among the Singalese — Visit to a Buddhist temple — A jinrikisha ride through the country district near Colombo — Glad of the restful sea — Troubles of the passengers — Events in the fo'c'stle — Loss of a key and the resulting trouble — Discouraging days — In the harbor of Singapore 374

CHAPTER LV

Singapore— End of the Voyage Near

A swarming Chinese population — Not much of an English city — Clothing for the tropics — Cheap tailoring — Night in a tropical fairyland — Concert by a regimental band — Anxiety to reach Manila — Busy days for " Jimmy Legs " — Sorry to leave my friends among the crew — End of the voyage near — A great disappointment 378

CHAPTER LVI

Last Days on the Transport

The removal of the freight — A night visit to Manila — Discouraging first impressions — Letters from home — A dangerous trip — A lesson in Filipino finance — Discharged with a record of " very good " — Free at last — A sure enough sailor, with a sailor's bag — Farewell to the McClellan — A cloud with a silver lining — A home in far-off Manila 385

CHAPTER LV1I

Among "Our Little Brown Brothers"

First impressions of Manila — An ancient and picturesque city — The Filipino people — Conceit of the natives — Untruthful and over-pretentious — Aguinaldo as an example — A visit to the captive pretender — What the conversation was about — Off for the Laguna district — In search of a bed — Bunking with soldiers — A funeral which seemed a farce — Hypocritical mourners — A coffin for general use 389

CHAPTER LVIII A Glimpse of the Edge of China

Preparations for the homeward journey — From Manila to Hong-Kong — Chinese passengers — Chinese economies in cooking — The gambling instinct a curse to the Chinese — Land is sighted — First view of Hong-Kong — A great commercial centre — A ride in a sedan chair — The use of opium and its effect — How the trade was forced upon China 395

CHAPTER LIX

Canton, a Typical Chinese City

Hong-Kong to Canton — Scenes along the river — Historic country — The queer old Chinese junks — The metropolis of southern China — Not an attractive place in which to live — Boats which are the homes of families — Characteristics of the city — Goods in the shops which tempt the foreign visitor — Rats and cats for sale as food — At a native concert — The practice of binding the feet of women — A ride in a sampan — Fish a blessing to the poor — Well-trained ducks 403

CHAPTER LX

The Chrysanthemum Kingdom

The beautiful harbor of Nagasaki — The island of Pappenberg, and its connection with Christianity — A favorable impression of Japanese cities — Immorality of the Japanese — The deficiencies of native art — Through the beautiful Inland Sea — A panorama of wonderful magnificence — Osaka and Kioto — A hurried journey through a fascinating country 409

CHAPTER LX1

More of Japan — Across the Pacific

The importance of Yokohama — The " Great River " an insignificant stream — Tokio and its characteristics — A disappointing city — The lovely town of Nikko — Back to Nagasaki — Off for San Francisco — A pleasant surprise from Timmie — An uneventful voyage — The question of the extra Saturday — The Golden Gate a joyful sight — Blessings of American civilization 415

CHAPTER LXH

America Again — Fourth Trip Abroad

A pleasant home-coming — A neighborhood, gathering — Glad to be back in the neighborhood of New York — The responsibility of America as a teacher of the nations — Another trip to Europe — A lesson learned 423

ILLUSTRATIONS

Author's Portrait (by George T. Tobin),

President and Mrs. McKinley at Home,

Sitting-Room in the White House,

City Hall Park, New York, . .

The Battery, New York,

Regent Street, London,

Traffic Across London Bridge,

Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone at Hawarden Castle,

The Queen and Princesses Victoria and Beatrice

PAGE

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Her Majesty's Sitting-Room in Windsor Castle, .......... 83

A Street in Brussels, 103

The Palace of the King, Brussels, 103

The Rhine and the Seven Mountains, 117

Cologne Cathedral, 117

View of the Jungfrau from Interlaken, 133

Lucerne and the Neighboring Mountains 133.

President Faure in 1897, 155 ;

President Loubet in 1900, 155

Home Again; Approaching New York, 169

The Mansion House, London, 169

King Oscar Among His Soldiers, 189 '

The Royal Palace at Stockholm, '. . 189

The Madeleine, from Rue Royale, Paris, 199

Entrance to the Elysee Palace, ' 199

Scene on the Road to Ober-Ammergau, . . .211

The Principal Street of Innsbruck, 211

A Scene in the Passion Play, 225

Mountaineers in the Bavarian Highlands, 235

The Magnificent Castle of Neuschwanstein, 235

Pope Leo in the Vatican Gardens, 245

The Pope and His Secretaries, 245

A Street in Gibraltar, 277

A Fishing Village at the Foot of the Rock, 277

Street Scenes in Tangier, 283

Outside the City Walls, Tangier, 283

The Old City of Valletta, Malta, 297

Landing and Harbor at Valletta, 297

Seen Along the Banks of the Suez Canal, 305

The Harbor and Custom-House at Port Said, 305

Water-Carrier in an Egyptian Village, 313

Resting on the Road to Cairo, 313

The Kasr-el-Nil, at Cairo, 323

The Great Pyramid and the Sphinx, 323

A Favorite Mode of Transportation in Aden, 339,

Camels Decorated for a Wedding Party, 339

Some Native Beauties in Ceylon, 351

Elephants near Kandy, .' 351

A Group of Imprisoned Boers, in Ceylon, 367

Youthful Prisoners of War, 367

In the Famous Botanical Gardens at Singapore, 379

Raffles Square, Singapore — A Business Centre, 379

A Cock-fight — The National Filipino Sport, 391

The Walled City of Manila, from the Luneta, 391

Natives of the Mountains of Luzon, ' 395

Types of Filipino Women, 395

A Street in Hong-Kong 405

Interior of an Opium Den in Canton, "....... 405

Going to the Temple in Kobe, 411"

A Business Street in Kioto 411 «

A Common Vehicle in Rural Japan, 417

Irrigating Fields of Rice 417 .

Busy Market Street — San Francisco, 421

First Glimpse of America from the Pacific, 421

CHAPTER I Starting Out Into the World

'HE town of Mattoon, Illinois, is a flourishing place of ten thousand inhabitants, surrounded with fertile farm lands, and boasting two railway machine shops, together with other smaller industries. Persons who spend their lives in larger cities will scarcely understand how busy a boy can be in a town of this size. During the fourteen years of my life which were spent in this town, I was never at a loss for something to do, and I was especially busy after I became ten years old. We had a large back-yard at home, where the soil was rich and deep, and in the spring of the year I planted radishes and lettuce and other vegetables, which I later peddled among the neighbors. The fresh garden stuff was always in demand, and I was generally able to earn forty or fifty cents before school in the €jjj morning.

In the winter, when there were no vegetables to sell, I supplied my customers with mince-meat, horse-radish and other home-made foods, so that my trade was about the same the whole year round. When I had visited my list of patrons in the morning, I went to school at nine o'clock and remained until three or four in the afternoon. Then, when school was over for the day, I began my duties as janitor and counter assistant in the small public library of the town. The work there was not very agreeable in some respects. The library occupied two good-sized rooms over a store in the principal street, and it required a great deal of work to keep them clean. They required to be swept and dusted three times a week, and in the winter a fire was necessary during the hours when the library was open. The windows, too, were often in need of washing, and the front stairs had to be scrubbed once in every week. My salary as janitor was two dollars a month and I usually felt that I had earned it when the pay-day came round.

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