Caledonian sketches

Front matter

I

Caledonian B)Mt\fts,

OR A

Chapter I

Tran-'elUHg infatuation — aiiccdite c>r^ -.i Scoicrjuiuu in Italy— —a. consoling reflection— Cambridge--~ics bcauiifal coiUgz ^^aiki — the exquisite architecture of kings colkgi: cha.psl — Pembroke college— anecdote cf Mr, Pitt — Mr. Fox — a luindo'VJ full cf abfurdities — facetious 'verses — Dr. darkens antiques — Stamford — -singular 7node of strengthening a iveak building — retnarks upon Tork ininster — hints to dii}ines—-the ca-stle ai York— —Durham — -remarks upon the cathedral and the prison.

HOW common in practice, and yet how inexplicable upon principle is it, that we wander from adjacent beauties to remote ones, which, after much toil of mind and body, frequently prove to be inferior to those we leave behind, which have a thousand times courted us in vain both by their attractions and their facilities of access ! How often do v/e brave the seas and the tempests to draw pleasure from continental resources, and how frequently do we learn from foreigners the beauties of our own country I Is it that we place a false value upon what is difficult of attainment, and feel but little relish for that which can be procured with little exertion ? A Scottish gentleman, in whose estate a hill, called Mount Damietta, stands, near Stirling, when in Italy was expressing to a native of that country the delight which the scenery of that beautiful region afforded him, and declared it to be the finest in the world. *' It is very fine, undoubtedly," said the Italian, *' but inferior to the one in Scotland ; I mean the view from the hill Damietta, near Stirling." The Scottish gentleman was much surprised, and somewhat embarrassed in not being able to make the comparison himself, for

C the truth was, he had never visited the top of his own mount, and was ashamed to own it.

After having felt somewhat of this fashionable infatuation, with delicate health, however, to offer in excuse, I resolved upon judging for myself of a people and a country long renowned in history, and who, in the pages of a writer high in the annals of literary fame, appeared with a double character, at one time inviting with attraction, at another repelling with disgust.

In the pursuit of my object, I had the additional satisfaction of reflecting that I had no boisterous seas to cross, and no keen and perilous investigations of a hostile police to encounter. Having purified my mind from the prejudices which ill-humoured or sarcastic representations had at various times impressed upon it, I set off for Scotland ; and as the line of route was to me in some degree novel, I loitered a little in my way, to contemplate objects that I found not only new, but highly in^ teresting.

I commenced my tour with emotions of gratitude to that beneficent and all-wise Ruler who has hitherto preserved us from sharing in the humiliation of so many nations of the earth, and who enables, us to wander, as business, pleasure, or the love of information may impel, over a country which we may still proudly call our own, without being compelled to witness the devastations of war, or to contemplate the triumphant march of insatiable ambition.

Seated in an island favoured by Heaven, and fortified by nature against the political storms that rage around us, we view their angry progress, as the astronomer in the calmness of the night contemplates the erratic course of the flaming meteor, in safe and solemn meditation.

The delightful month of June had just commenced when I left London ; and, after passing through a country which possessed very little to gladden the eye or interest the mind, I arrived at Cambridge, where I had the gratification of being the bearer of letters of introduction to several gentlemen, distinguished for their knowledge and extent of research in distant countries, and of contemplating many magnificent and venerable edifices sacred to learning, along whose walls the Cam slowly and silently moves, as if conscious that it flowed through the seat of study and meditation, reflecting upon its dark and placid surface many a luxuriant bank, and tree of stately growth, harmoniously grouped together, and naturally disposing the mind ttntamiliarized to the scene, to pensive reflection.

The groves and gardens of the colleges are equally sweet and equally solemn; but they had materially suffered by a recent and violent flood, which had overflowed the country to a great extent, and had left many rueful marks of its visitation upon tree, shrub, bank, and flower. Among the trees, three weeping elms are pointed out to the stranger, which cannot be seen without admiration. I do not mean to fatigue the reader by elaborate architectural descriptions of the different buildings which adorn this celebrated seat of science ; but I cannot pass over unnoticed the chapel of King's College, which, for size, lightness, and beauty, has no rival in this country, and, I am well informed, none in any other.

In this, as in most pure Gothic buildings, the principal exterior decorations are reserved for its summits ; but what pencil or pen can adequately pourtray the symmetry and beauty of the interior of this pile ."* The eye rises with delight from the floor to the elegant roof of Gothic arches, springing from their buttresses j it then roves along the " slender shafts of shapely stone," finely contrasted with the florid richness of the painted windows, and the whole decorated with a profusion of elaborate ornaments, varying from each other in form, and rivalling each other in beauty. The imagination is more disposed to consider this exquisite structure as the fabled temple raised by magic than a fabric of human workmanship. It stands a splendid monument of the taste, piety, and munificence of Henry VI. its original founder, and of succeeding sovereigns. The sight of such a building would nobly remunerate the pains and perils of a long pilgrimage.

A natural curiosity induced me to pay an early visit to the rooms which the illustrious Pitt occupied in Pembroke College, where I felt that glow of enthusiasm which departed genius never fails to excite in the spot which it has rendered sacred by its presence. A Professor, who favoured me with his company on the occasion, had the honour of having known that exalted character well. He informed me, in opposition to the generally credited remark that Mr. Pitt knew but little of Greek, that he was thoroughly well versed in that language at the age of fourteen, but that he never quoted from any Greek authors in the senate, from a well-founded conviction that the only impression he would have excited amongst the greater portion of his auditors would have been that of pedantry. How finely and powerfully his Latin quotations applied is in the public recollection. Iilathematics formed his favourite study, to the pursuit of which, lae used to observe, he Intended to return, whenever the cares of the s^ate no longer demanded his undivided attention. Although he shook the senate with thejhunder of his eloquence, in private life he was remarkable for his gentle and unassuming manners. In the colloquial pleasures of the table he would listen with the most patient good humour to great talkers, and argue with them as if his mental powers had been but a little above their own. He never, like Jupiter conversing with the clown, appealed to his thunder. He supported the diffident, and played with the overbearing : in short, in the hours of relaxation, he charmed and delighted, as much as, in those which "were devoted to the public welfare, he excited the astonishment and admiration of the world.

It is a matter worthy of remark, that scarcely in one instance throughout the eventful histories of two of the most illustrious statesmen and orators that ever adorned this or any othe; country, is any coincidence to be found, except in the extent and brilliancy of their mental powers, and the melancholy fate whicl. consigned them together to the common lot of mortality. Even in their early studies, whilst Cambridge derives increased celebrity from having the name of Pitt upon her records, Oxford may boast with equal pride the lasting honour of having imparted to Fox the treasures of her learning. '

The same spirit of (I hope not illaudable) curiosity induced zne to explore the apartments which Gray occupied in the same college. Strange to remark, no one belonging to it could be found to tell me where they were. At last an aged inhabitant of the town was sent for, who immediately conducted me to them. In one of the rooms of this college there is a medallion of Mason.' The Professor I before mentioned remembered Gray when at college, and observed, that what principally remained upon his recollection was his large Aquiline nose, and cold inaccessible manner: in the garden belonging to this college there is a Gothic bower remaining, though hastening to rapid decay, which he and Mason planned. It is singular that in the common hall there is no portrait of either Gray or Pitt : to the memofy of the latter, however, a fine statue is to be erected In the senate house, by that able and tasteful artist, NoUekens,

Under one of the windows in one of the rooms which Gray previously occupied at St. Peter's College, there still remains a staple, which the Poet, who was very fearful of fire, had fixed there, for the purpose of escaping from the danger of that element by a rope ladder, ^n auttientic anecdote is told of a cc':- lege trick which was upon this occasion played off upon him, in revenge for his general unpleasant deportment and unmanly timidity. He was one night roused from his slumbers by a loud cry of " Fire ;" upon which he immediately affixed his ropeSj and descended into a large tub of water, which his roguish comrades had placed under his window to receive him. Thus, thinking to escape from one element, he fell into another. In consequence of this trick the Bard left St. Peter's for Pembroke. In the Chapel of Trinity College there is an exquisite statue of the immortal Newton, in white marble, by Roubiliac. The great philosopher is represented in a loose gown, with a prism in his hands, and his face elevated to Heaven, as if in divine meditation. On the pedestal is inserted

The library of Trinity College is a very noble room, and said to contain many valuable books, but it is sadly disfigured by the window of painted glass at the south end, representing Sir Isaac Newton, who died in 1726, being presented to his present Majesty, George the Third, who was born in 1738: the king is seated upon a throne, holding a laurel chaplet in one hand, and attended by Minerva, whilst below the Lord Chancellor Bacon, who died in 1 626, is seen preparing to register the reward which the sovereign is about to bestow upon the philosopher, who died about twelve years before his royal benefactor existed. The execution of this gaudy association of the dead and of tiL.^ living, this transparent portrait of absurd anachronisms, corresponds with the design. Amongst the MSS. in this library are the Conius and other poems of Milton, in his own hand, with his alterations. The admirers of the sublime and beautiful in poetry may be gratified by seeing a lock of hair of this illustrious bard at Lord Fitzwilliam's, at Richmond.

In the vestibule of the public library are some valuable antiquities, which have been presented to it by Dr. Clarke, a gentleman equally known for his learning, and the uncommon enterprise and enthusiasm with which he achieved a very extensive tour through various distant countries, particularly iti Greece, from which, at considerable cost and with infinite address and labour, he contrived to bring the celebrated colossal bust of Ceres, exhibiting part of the body, from the girdle upwards, from the temple of Eleusis, and present it to his Alma Mater. In raising and embellishing this gorgeous and stupendous temple, thf roost illustrious artists of Greece are said to have exerted their highest energies, until they ieft it a work of -iiatchless perfection, at once the admiration and wonder of the Avorld. Amongst the hterary treasures collected by Dr. Clarke, in the course of his travels, are a Plato, beautifully written on vellum, by Professor Porson, styled a monument of literature, and other valuable works from Patmos, Naxos, Mount Athos, and from Constantinople. The Doctor has also brought some antique monuments from Sais, in Egypt, (the ruins of which city were first discovered by Messrs. Clarke and Crips), and various other antiquities from Upper Egypt, collections of medals and vases from all parts of Greece, and sculpture and inscriptions from the Cimmerian Bosphorus, the Crimea, the shores of the Euxine, the Plain of Troy, the Greek Islands, and the Grecian Continent. The public has been long in expectation of seeing in print the researches and observations of this elegant and learned traveller, and it is to be hoped that so high a gratification will not be long delayed.

After viewing the magnificent edifice devoted to piety or learning, the traveller will do well to visit a fabric of a different nature ; I mean the gaol, which is small, but admirably designed and constructed. In the discipline of the prison I saw uothing to object to, except an unnecessary weight of irons with which an unfortunate delinquent was loaded, and which, the gaoler himself acknowledged, were much too ponderous ; but I think he added, that they had none lighter. This matter is not unworthy the attention of the gentlemen to whom the inspection of the prison is entrusted.

From Cambridge I proceeded to Stamford, through Huntingdon. The fens are much drained, and the country was extremely pleasant. Stamford, in the number of its churches, brought the city of Cologne to my memory, which, as well as most of the houses, are built of a fine and hard stone, brought from a neighbouring quarry, and with which Downing College at Cambridge is to be constructed, when the architect and the mason are no longer restrained by the torpid spells of the law. Apprehensions having been entertained that St. Mary's Church, the handsomest building in the town, was giving way, the inhabitants had it cramped up with iron, and by an Hibernian mode of proceeding, to make it more secure, have, as I was informed, suspended in it tivo additional bells. Stamford stands apon a rocky soil, so porous, that the inhabitants have only to make a cess-pool or deep hole, and every thing thrown into it ;X!on disappears. Burleigh House and Park adjoin the town, and give it the only interest which it possesses. This munificent donation of Elizabeth to her favourite minster is well known. Compared with his merits, she courteously said it was too small. In the noble apartments are many costly and exquisite paintings. On that of our Saviour by Carlo Dolce, so justly celebrated, I gazed long and ardently, and withdrew with emotions of admiration and regret. The divine face seemed sufficient to kindle the flame of piety in the breast of the most depraved. The new lodge is in bad taste : the towers are surmounted with domes resembling large full-grown cabbages inverted, which produce an unpleasant effect.

In my way to York I passed through Doncaster, the elegant appearance of which cannot but arrest the attention of the traveller. York is a great and gloomy city, enriched by one of the most grand and beautiful specimens of Gothic architecture in the kingdom. For nearly twenty years, the old and decaying parts of this beautiful cathedral have been restoring. In this very nice and difficult work, an ingenious mason, of the name of Shute, has been employed for a considerable length of time. What has been done has been creditably done ; but it would have been better under professional direction, which is not thought necessary. Such is the case at Westminster, and I believe at Lincoln. Whilst such a method is used, it is well that the cathedral of York is under such excellent government, for it might have had a dean* of less taste and judgment, and less enthusiasm with regard to purity of style.

Although no one is more happy to acknowledge the general taste as well as the profound learning of our churchmen than I, yet I cannot as readily admit that they can be, without the assistance of a skilful and experienced architect, capable of faithfully restoring the delicate *' foliaged tracery" of Gothic architecture, by merely modelling and copying different parts of the original fabric. To copy with fidelity and effect is an effort of knowledge as well as of labour. What mason could copy with truth and effect the exquisite productions of Fiaxman and Nollekens ? Not the minutest ornament should be I'eplaced, in such venerable and beautiful piles as I have enumerated, but under the superintendence of an able artist. The ravages of time upon the minster of York will furnish constant employ for the restoring hand of art for a century to come.

* The Rev. Dr. Markham,.

This august pile has been frequently described. It was commenced in 1171. Its interior corresponds with the majesty of its external appearance. The ancient painted windows are oi exquisite workmanship^ and at a distance resemble delicate lightcoloured lace work. As far as the senses are concerned in aid of a spirit of devotion, I cannot but think that the pure Gothic is the best adapted for that purpose. In this minster, in the abbey of Westminster, and in similar buildings, I feel religious awe pervade my mind which I never feci in the v.ast and majestic cathedral of St. Paul. But for the sound of the organ, and the voice of the choiristers, it might be regarded as a stupendous Pantheon instead of a place of devotion. In the screen are the effigies of several of our kings, one of which very whimsically presents itself to the eye with red hair gilt, by which the artisr, intended to show, that in this prince's reign it was the fashion to powder the hair with gold dust. In the library belonging to the minster, there is a fine volume, in vellum, containing Erasmus's Works. This hbrary is intended to be removed to the chapel, which formerly belonged to the archbishop's palace. In this city there is an annual display of benignity which I cannot pass over in silence j a spirit of liberality, which it would be well for the world were it more imitated. A nunnery has been established here for many years, in which there are about one hundred and thirty young ladies, who are brought up in the Catholic religion ; the Lady Abbess pays a yearly visit to his Grace the Archbishop of York, by whom she is always most kindly and coi'dially received.

The castle, standing upon an elevated and spacious area ol ground, containing the county hall, (a superb building of the Ionic order, and the old and new prisons, is higly deserving of attentron. The Court of Nisi Prius is formed after the best possible plan for hearing and for accommodation, two essentials which are not often found in any of our seats of justice. The prison for felons is the ancient gaol, which, although inferior to modern buildings of this description, is far from being objectionable. The magistrates deserve the thanks of their county for the constant attention which they pay to the discipline of this prison, which is in consequence kept very clean ; and the unfortunate felons, of whom there were only fifteen when I visited it, are enabled by their labour to support themselves tolerably well until delivered by due course of law : humane discretion is visible here in the weight of the prisoners' chains. Opposite to the county hall, and corresponding with it in front, i-^ a noble building, containing the prisons for female felons and debtors, hospital, &c. which do great honour to the skill and taste of Mr. Carr, the architect. The debtors are also very humanely permitted to walk in the area. In the city gaol, I was informed by a magistrate, there were no prisoners, although the jurisdiction of the city extends over a population of about 25,000 persons. Another circumstance, equally creditable to the vast county of York, deserves to be mentioned. At the last general election no accident occurred, and no disturbance arose, although, not less than 2-2,000 persons were brought from the country into the city to vote, and, as far as the fact could be ascertained, not one horse was killed from excess of driving.

The ancient bridge over the Ouse has often attracted the pencil of the artist j and the ruins of St. Mary are still beautiful, though they have been lately much dilapidated, for the sake of the materials. The ride to Durham is very pleasant, and frequently picturesque. This city "derives all its consequence from its enormous cathedral, (situated in a lofty and well-wooded knoll), the windings of the river Wear and its bridges, and the beautiful walks which adorn its meanders. In these walks are many elms and mountain-ash, of the noblest growth. The houses are in. general mean, and far from corresponding with the features I have just before mentioned. The cathedral is a vast heavy pile^ chiefly of Saxon architecture, a huge quarry above ground, the foundation of which was laid in 1093. The size of the interior, and the massy magnitude of the pillars, arrayed in all the clumsy magnificence of the Norman style, are all that are worthy of notice within. The castle, or bishop's palace, adjoining, is, like the cathedral, very large and gloomy. The rooms within are dark and unfurnished. The only object worthy of any notice is a curious and highly-embellished Saxon arch, in the long gallery, which, only a few years since, was discovered behind a covering of plaister. Some, but a very small part, of the castle, is supposed to be coeval with William the Conqueror. The Bishop shews his taste by residing at Bishop Auckland, about eleven miles distant, and never entering the gloomy abode but when official duty renders it necessary. In one of the chambers, I am informed, is the coffin of St. Cuthbert, a large chest, strongly hooped with iron. As my Cicerone did not mention this circumstance, I have done it for the benefit of future travellers who are curious in such matters.*

* The manor of So;kburne, formedy belonging to the Conyers, now in the pofr-JfTion of Sir WiUia:T\ Black^tt. Bart, in the n?i?;hbourhood of Durham, is held by

D

The prison Is well calculated to punish the prisoner before his guilt is proved : the dungeons, which are below each other, are dark, damp, and unwholesome. The ventilators, which ascend to the top of the gaol, are choked up. The prisoners sleep upon straw ; the common room is small, and badly ventilated j and the male prisoners are let out only seven at a time into a small yard for exercise, and that only twice a week, which yard is close to an inn, and commanded by it. It is additionally painful to reflect that the assizes are only held here once a year. The keeper of the prison is a humane and respectable man, and much regretted that the building was so objectionable. The bridewell is in a shocking state. The sleeping-room of the prisoners is a great cave under the road, strewed at the bottom with straw, like the stables of the robbers in Gil Bias. Into this vault I was shown, in mid-day, by the aid of a lanthorn : it was dripping with wet on every side.

knight- fervke under the Bishop of Durham, and by an observance of the following lingular ceremony .'—At the first entrance of the Bishop into the country, the Lord of Sockburne, or his agent, meets him in the middle of the tees at Neesham, where the water is fordable, or at Croft Bridge, when he prefents a falchion to the Bishop, as an emblem of his temporal power, and repeats the following words ;— My Lord Bifliop, I here prefent you with the falchion wherewith the champion Conyers flew the Ivor m, dragon, or fiery-flying ferpent, which deftroyed man, woman, and child, in memory of which, the King then reigning, gave him the manor of Sockburne, to hold by this tenure, that, upon the firft entrance of every Bishop into the country, this falchion should be prefented." The Bishop then takes the falchion in his hand, and immediately returns it to the perfon who prefents it, wishing the Lord of Sockburne health, and' a long enjoyment of the manor.

In the ancient pedigree of the family of Conyers it is fet forth, that " Sir John Conyers, Knt. who flew the monft'rous vennomous and poyfonous wyvern, afp, or worm, which overthrew and devoured many people in fight, and the fcent of the poyfon was fo flrong that no perfon might abide it. and hereby p'vidence of Almighty God overthrew it, and it lyeth buried at Sockburne before the Conqueft. But before he did enterprjfe, having but one childe, went to the church in complete armour, and off^ered up his fonne to the Holy Ghoft, which monuments are yet to fee. Alfo the place where the ferpent lay is called Gieyftone." Tradition ftill points to the fpot where this mighty worm or dragon was entombed. The ftory, if literally taken, is more curious than Angular, in depicting the credulity of diftant times ; but it is moft probable that this flying monfter was figuratively used to denote fome great rebellious Lord, who was fuccefsfully refilled by the gallant Conyers.

Chapter II

A village of butchers— 'effect of habit-— Ben Johnfon^s riddle— ^Spanish pro'verb—NenucaJile— exportation of coals— curious anecdote of a shottonuer—the 'village of Lemington— Roman pie.ce of plate— Greennjoichhofpital lands— —Hexham abbey— nature pretty equal in her gifts— Northumbrian dialect — French language traceable in Northumberlajid—a hint to the trujlees of Greenzvich hofpital — Roman ivall—a Northumbrian fair — Watlin fireet— anecdote of Simy Dod~—C apheaton—Wal " lington houfe — a peel.

IN the road from Durham to Newcastle-upon-Tyne, I passed by Lumley Castle, a noble seat of Lord Scarborough, near Chester-le-street, a village which is nearly filled with butchers, who supply the adjoining collieries with meat. The spiral smoke of these collieries blackens the atmosphere to a great distance, and gives to the surrounding country the appearance of a collection of volcanos. Between Chester-le-street and Newcastle the traveller is carried over a very long and tedious hill, exposed and barren, called Gates-head-fell, (from the summit of which there is a fine, view of the Tyne), when the road might, with the greatest ease, be carried through a beautiful vale. Upon this hill most of the grindstones, for which Newcastle is so famous, are found and manufactured, of which there are several depots, resembling so many piles of cheeses.

How full of accommodation is habit ! a gentleman of Newcastle, who travelled with me from Durham, observed, that he looked upon smoke as good for all disorders, and particularly efficacious in rtpelling the plague ; and a gentleman who had a considerable property in the marshy part of Lincolnshire, before observed to me, that xhtfens were unusually wholesome.

Newcastle is a large and splendid tov/n, but under a volcanic atmosphere, which threw a sombre tint over every object. The, inhabitants, I am told, are not conscious of this. The crownlike summit of the tower of St. Nicholas is well worthy of notice. Wallis, in his history of Northumberland, vol. ii. page 231, thus describes this steeple : — "Four stone images, at full ** length, adorn each corner of a square tower, out of which « rises a curious steeple, in height sixty-four yards, one foot, « and three quarters, decorated with thirteen pinnacles, two s« bold stone arches, supporting a large and beautiful ianthorn, « on which is a tall and stately spire." Ben Johnson, it is supposed, made the following uncouth x'iddle upon this steeple, preserved in Gray's Chorographia : —

My altitude high, my body four-scjuare j

My foot in the grave, my head in the'air ;

My eyes in my side, five tongues in my v/omb ;

Thirteen heads upon my body, four images alo;.^-

I can direct you where the wind doth stay,

And I tune God's precepts twice a day.

I am seen where I am not, I am heard v/here I is nnt.

Tell me now what I am^ and fee that ye m;s5 no:.''

The prison of this town has not participated in Its improvernents. It has no sick room, no chapel. la one small room were three felons, two of whom slept in one room, and the third under. The debtors were shockingly crowded : the only place allowed them for exercise was the leads on the roof. The felons have no place to take the air in. A miserable female convict some years since attempted to make an escape, by descending from the battlements (where she was permitted to walk) by a cord, which was too weak to sustain her, and she fell into a small yard adjoining, and died in cDnse(juence a few days after. The assizes are here also held only once a year. It is ji matter of surprise, that, in a town so opulent and flourishing, a suitable prison should not be erected. It has been long in contemplation to build a new one, but the gentlemen of the corporation should be reminded of the Spanish saying, that " Heaven will be filled with those who /jave done good things, and the lower regions with those who intended to do them,"