A winter in Central America and Mexico

Preface

The knights of old journeyed into distant lands to do deeds of chivalry ; the knights of to-day, more practical though not less courageous, go searching for the North Pole, for gold, for knowledge, for adventure ; but who of them has gone into distant, uncivilized lands in search of coffee ? Such was the errand of the two whose wanderings and observations are recorded in this little volume. The journey was undertaken by Mr. James S. Sanborn, of the firm of Chase and Sanborn, of this city, in the interest of the coffee business of that firm. The author went, as narrated in the first chapter, to be a companion to her father, and, as far as a limited knowledge permitted, to speak the Spanish language. On our return home, notes of our travels were published in the New England Grocer, for the interest of the trade.

iii

IV PREFACE.

The publication of these in book form has been demanded so widely, by friends and strangers, that — well, here is the book !

Among the scores of books constantly coming into market, the writer feels that this one has no reason for being and no claim for attention, except from the fact that it treats principally of a country and a people as yet but little known, and rarely visited or written about. The narrative is a true, unvarnished tale ; and our earnest desire and hope is that it may awaken in those who read a greater interest in, and regard for, that small, remote, almost unknown republic of Guatemala, which we shall always hold in loving remembrance.

H. J. S.

Boston, February, 1886.

Chapter I. Off For Guatemala!

The Outlook — Discouraging Prospect — The Start — In the South — New Orleans — The Mississippi and the Gulf — Sea-sickness — A Sumptuous Repast — In the Caribbean

— Our Indian Pilot — Arrival at Balize ....... 7

Chapter II. Balize, Livingston, And The Caribs

Tropical Luxuriance — Our Hostelry — An Af ter-Dinner Drive

— An Odd Cemetery — Business-hours — Livingston — Strange Sights — The Caribs — Carib Folk-lore — Leaves from Carib History — Race-qualities 19

Chapter III. A Voyage On The Rivers Dulce And Polochic

The "Sweet River" — The " Golf ete " — Lake Izabal — Exorbitant Duties — Inconsistency of Officials — Spanish Politeness — The Marimba — The Indian's Idea — In Crooked Ways — A World of Beauty — Bird and Beast — The Land of Mahana ti

Chapter IV. Life Among The Indians

Beasts of Burden — Indians and Ladinos — Travelling in Style — A Refractory Mule — A Terrible Road — Spanish Jargon — A Valued Friend — New Difficulties — In the " Cabildo " — Frugal Fare — Primitive Couches — The Native Beverage — A Fairy's Bower — Tucuru — Fine Scenery — A Shower of Questions — Occupying a Jail — Our Friend Leaves Us — Spanish Tact — Dress of the Natives

— " All Right " — A Queer Hubbub — Indian Music . . 44

Chapter V. A Week In An Indian Village

A Thrifty Town — Cassimir's Triumph — A Reflex of Home

— Hungry Travellers — Candelaria — Coban — Exiles from Civilization — Welcome Visitors — The " Plaza " — Funeral Rites — Evening Worship — Anxious Forebodings — In Despair — Obstacles — Injustice to the Indians .... 68

Chapter VI. On Mule-back

The Dreaded Ordeal — A Young Smoker — " Salama " — An Enchanting Scene — A "Great Man's" Trials — The Goitre — A Hard Climb — Mountain after Mountain — The Land of Do-nothing — An Indifferent Official — A Motley Throng — "Agua, Agua" — Unique " Villages " — A Strange Bedfellow — A Barren Place — A Clever Ruse — A Sleepless Night — Astir Again — Looking for Dawn — Awful Grandeur — "Our Heads Fairly Whirled" — "No Mas Mulas" — Melesio Leaves Us 84

Chapter VII. The Capital

"Pequena Paris" — A Pleasant City — Our Host and Hostess — The Hotel's " Patio " — A Black Pedagogue — King

Carnival — The American Minister — The Market — Tireless Servitors — Rise of the Liberals — A Protestant Mission — Guatemalan Schools — At the Opera ..... 108

Chapter VIII. A Bull Fight

Victims of Carnival — A Relic of Barbarism — A Gay Throng

— The Actors — Torturing the Bull — A Wonderful Feat

— The "Matador" — Master of the Situation — A Wanton Sacrifice — The Spanish View — A Needed Reform . 122

Chapter IX. Antigua And A Buried City

A Busy Scene — A Rare Garden — Antigua — A Weird Ruin

— Our Little Cicerone — Agua and Fuego — " Ciudad Vieja" — A Thief in the Night — At the Foot of Agua —

" Cerro del Carmen " — Forebodings 134

Chapter X

INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT AND MRS. BARRIOS.

Barrios — A Cordial Greeting — Devotion of the Indians — "La Presidenta" — A Romantic Alliance — On the Eve of Revolution — The Great Decree — A Republic in Name — The Iron Hand — A False Step — Secret Preparations — A Faithless Friend — The Man and His Time

— Barrios' Works — A Glowing Tribute 146

CHAPTER XL

COFFEE PLANTATIONS, GROWTH AND CULTIVATION.

The Coffee Plant — Setting the Shrub — Preparing the Berry

— Indian Labor — Water in Coffee-curing — Guatemala Coffees — Difficulties in Buying Coffee 162

Chapter XII. Character And Customs Of The People

Aztec and Toltec — Condition of the Indians — Picturesque Costumes — Woman in Guatemalan Society — Love-making — Embarrassing Admiration — Gambling and Drinking — A Hopeless Feature of Society — An Unflattering Picture — The Other Side — A Bird's-eye View of History — Recent Events 170

Chapter XIII. Guatemala To Panama

Rich Resources — Need of Railroads — Good-bye to Guatemala — San Jose — Tremendous Surf — Fleecing — Tossed by the Billows — A Bitter-Sweet Experience — Two Figures — Blissful Ignorance — A " Norther " — The " Peaceful " Ocean 183

Chapter XIV. Panama, Aspinwall, And The Isthmus

The Hand of Providence — An Unhealthy Climate — A Wretched Night — Crossing the Isthmus — Colon — Drink and the Fever — Death in the Air — Tempted to Retreat — The Eloquence of Despair — A Fiery Furnace, 196

Chapter XV. Voyage In An English Steamer

A Lawless State of Affairs — A Joyful Departure — A Miscellaneous Company — An Odd Little Baby — All Anchored on Deck — A Terrible " Blow " — Warnings of the " Norther " — Two Waifs — " The Flowing Bowl " — Two Sides of the Question — Sherry in the Pudding-Sauce — Eagerness for Land — A Kind and Thoughtful Captain . 207

Chapter XVI. Across The Gulf To Vera Cruz

A Calm and Placid Voyage — Tired of the Sea — Importunate Boatmen — A Queer Old Place — Byron Recalled — A Spanish Cuisine — Street Scenes — Bandits — " The City of the Dead " — An Unwilling Sojourn 221

Chapter XVII

a day's journey from coast to capital. The Vegetation of All Zones — A Tribute to Mexican Servants — Wild Beauties — Snow-crowned Orizaba — A Vision of Eden — Marvellous Engineering — A Fairy Town — " La Boca del Monte " — A Mexican Caballero — In the Land of Cut-throats — On the Table-lands — Enveloped in Dust and Smoke — Extensive Stock-raising — A Famous Robber Town — A Helping Hand 232

Chapter XVIII. City Of Mexico

The Praises of Mexico — An Inviting Field for Tourists — Mexican Hotels — A Great Physical Change — A Beautiful Climate — The Venice of the Aztecs — A Splendid Pageant — Aztec Civilization — A Gifted People — Two Peoples Compared — Free from Care — The Power of Time Defied — The Vile " Lepero " — The Kindly " Aguador " 248

Chapter XIX. In And About The Plaza

" Nieve " and Fruit-Drinks — " Pulque " — The Great Cathedral — A Gorgeous Interior — "Driving the Devil Out"

— Vengeance upon Judas — The Mexican Passion-Play — A Perfect Picture — Missions in Mexico — The " Calendar Stone " — The Temple of Sacrifice — The National Palace

— Petty Merchants — Haggling — Injured Innocence . . 263

Chapter XX. Rambles About The City

A Touch of Nature — Snail-paced Mexico — An Unweeded Garden — The Beauty of Mexican Women — Artistic Handiwork — The Grand National Museum — The Academy of San Carlos — The National Pawn-Shop — Procrastination — A Song of To-morrow 279

Chapter XXI. Excursions In The Suburbs

The Shrine of Guadalupe — "The Tree of the Sad Night"

— A Disastrous Retreat — Alvarado's Leap — Joy and Sunshine — Under a Spell — Floating Gardens — Our Last Indian Breakfast — Chapultepec — A Fine Boulevard

— A Spanish Castle — A Lovely Valley — A Restful Scene — A Trysting Place . 290

Chapter XXII. Homeward Bound

Leaving Mexico — Beggars and Peddlers — A Mining District — In the Desert — Crossing the Frontier — The Importance of Spanish — The Melody of Spanish — George Eliot on Spanish — Flexibility of Spanish — Special Uses of Spanish — A Strange Fascination — Reminders of Mexico — Kit Carson's Cabin — A Familiar Face — Home Again — Retrospection . . . . „ 305

A WINTER IN CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO.

Chapter I. Off For Guatemala !

" Why don't you take your daughter Helen with you on your southern trip ? "

This question was asked by a friend of the family as we sat chatting together in the library, one evening, about the journey which my father was soon to take through Central America and Mexico.

My father replied, " I should be very glad to take anybody who could speak Spanish."

" Oh, will you take me if I will learn Spanish ?" I exclaimed, eagerly. "I will learn it before you go, if you will only promise to take me ! "

Much to my own surprise the challenge was accepted, and, although fresh from college and longing for a glimpse of foreign lands, I felt a little dismayed, when I had time for deliberation, at the task I had set myself — to learn a language of o THE OUTLOOK.

which I knew not a word, and make all preparations for a long journey in the short space of less than three months which must intervene before our departure. However, of this I breathed not a syllable to any one, but went to work at once.

We found in planning the journey the greatest difficulty, since it was next to impossible to gain any information about the countries we were to visit. It is truly surprising how very little the people of the United States know about Central America. Their knowledge of the North Pole or Africa is more extensive than of this rich portion of their own continent. The reason is obviously its great lack of facilities for travelling, for there are sufficient attractions to lure all classes of people, from the wealthy tourist to the poor boy " seeking his fortune." There is fine scenery for the traveller ; rich mines, valuable woods, and tropical fruits for the speculator ; rare plants, birds and animals for the naturalist ; wonderful ruins for the antiquarian, and a curious and interesting people for all. But these can be reached only by toilsome journeys on mule-back, and by a most decided experience of "roughing it," so that the country has hitherto been visited almost exclusively by seekers after

DISCOURAGING PROSPECT. 9

wealth, adventure, or scientific knowledge, and by only a few of these.

Before we left home we found one or two persons who had been in Central America, and they gave us a most discouraging account of the hardships to be endured in that uncivilized country, where nearly all the inhabitants are Indians, and most of the travelling must be done in the saddle. One gentleman in particular declared that it was utterly unreasonable for a lady to attempt such a journey, and his judgment was corroborated by letters received from American consuls at different points, who, after explaining the dangers and difficulties to be encountered, always added as advice to my father, " You can probably take the journey very well, but we would strongly advise you not to bring your daughter." However, we were not to be daunted. I felt very sure that I could go wherever my father could ; and besides we did not believe more than half that was told us, although on our return we were ready to declare that the most highly colored accounts were no exaggeration.

The largest and most important State of Central America is Guatemala, and the pleasantest

10 THE START.

and most common route is to go by the Pacific Mail steamer from New York to the Isthmus of Panama, cross the Isthmus by rail and take the Pacific Mail on the other side to San Jose, in Guatemala, whence there is a railroad to Guatemala City, the capital. The other route is to sail from New Orleans to Livingston, in Guatemala, and cross the country on mule-back to Guatemala City. In this journey both routes were combined, as giving more variety and wider acquaintance with the country. We entered the country by the latter and left it by the former and more common route.

We left Boston on a cold winter day from the New York and New England depot, by the Virginia Midland route, passing through New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Richmond, Charlotte, Atlanta, and Mobile, to New Orleans. We spent a day each in Baltimore and Richmond, where we were most pleasantly entertained by friends; but aside from this the journey through the Southern States was uninteresting. From the car windows one sees for the most part long stretches of rather barren fields and wretched negro huts, the monotony being broken only at

IN THE SOUTH. II

the stations, where crowds of negroes are always hanging about, shouting and laughing. In many of the cities, however, building is constantly going on, business is brisk, and decided progress is shown in mercantile enterprises. With the people of the South we were most favorably impressed. We found them exceptionally social, warm-hearted, and obliging, and all the officials most kind and courteous, far exceeding Northern people in this respect.

One hears about the war on every hand. Conversation is full of " before the war," "during the war," and " since the war." The following story admirably illustrates this point : —

It is said that Oscar Wilde, in his visit to the South, took a moonlight walk with a young lady, to whom he made the not very original but entirely sincere remark, —

" How beautiful the moonlight is ! The moon never looked lovelier than it does to-night ! "

To which the young lady replied with emphasis, " Oh, Mr. Wilde, you ought to have seen that moon 'before the war' ! "

In New Orleans we found the exposition in progress, but left it for our return trip, as we had

12 NEW ORLEANS.

but two days before the sailing of the steamer for Central America. We were mainly impressed with New Orleans as a very dirty city, having a climate rivaling that of New England, for the first day we were there was as mild as spring, and the second as cold as midwinter in Boston.

The morning of our departure, on our w r ay to the wharf, we were driven through most wretched streets, which gave no evidence of being repaired since the foundation of the city. They were full of ruts and mud-holes, which caused the coach to bang about in an alarming manner. In addition, we ran into a mule team, driven by a negro, who protested to our driver calmly but persuasively, " If yo' kill dis mule, it'll cost yer mor'n dat load'll fetch yer." The threat was telling, and we were finally extricated and landed at the wharf alive, but well shaken up.

The steamer Wanderer, on which we embarked, is a small steamer, of only 531 tons, and has poor accommodations for passengers, there being no saloon or promenade deck, and hardly space enough for a chair between the staterooms and railing.

There was a goodly number of passengers on board, many of them attracted to Central America

THE MISSISSIPPI AND THE GULF. 13

by the railroad projected by President Barrios. to be built from the coast to the capital. There were but two ladies — how thankful I was that there were two, for I had feared there would be none — -and with them and their husbands we became well acquainted and passed many pleasant hours. The two gentlemen were Scotch — one living in Montreal, and the other in British Honduras.

For the first afternoon and evening we were on the Mississippi, and the boat moved as quietly as if on a pond. We saw the sugar plantations, rice fields, and levees, and had a glorious sunset. By half-past nine that evening the steamer had crossed the bar, and, as one of the Scotchmen said, began "to rock a wee bit." The next morning she was fairly out in the Gulf, tossing and pitching in a "chop sea," and everybody was sea-sick. One gentleman declared "the steamer could jump sixty different ways a minute, and perform more antics than an acrobat." In the Gulf of Mexico she found ample scope for her powers, for, as the old black stewardess said, "There's the devil in it sometimes." It is a most treacherous body of water ; at times as quiet and peaceful as a lake,

14 SEA-SICKNESS.

and then again as raging and tumultuous as a maelstrom. For a few hours we would sit quietly on deck, the water as smooth as glass ; then, suddenly, without warning, we would be driven into our rooms by a shower of rain and a fearful tossing of the vessel.

Nearly everybody on board was sea-sick for two days. My case was not one of the most serious, as I never for a moment longed to die or be thrown overboard, as I have been told is the experience of those severely afflicted. As soon as I could I crawled out and sat in a chair by my stateroom door. Then I began to wonder why my father was so quiet and did not appear at all to wish me " good morning " or see how I was. Just then I saw the steward carrying a little tray of tea and toast to him, and learned on inquiry, much to my surprise, that my father was a victim too.

With no one to talk to I had no entertainment save that furnished by my fellow-passengers, and, although far from comfortable myself, was greatly amused by some of their experiences. In the adjoining stateroom was one poor fellow who was terribly sick, and his friends, who were suffering somewhat less, tried very hard to extend their

A SUMPTUOUS REPAST. I 5

sympathy by occasionally appearing at the door and inquiring, "How are you now, Charlie?" But this question, jerked out with great speed and vehemence, was the extent of their condolence, for they could never wait for an answer, but with the greatest eagerness hastened to avail themselves of the neighboring rail, that most valuable and popular resort at such times.

On the afternoon of the second day we had all sufficiently recovered to sit on deck, and think about having a little supper brought to us. How we discussed that supper beforehand ! A bride never gave more careful thought to her trousseau than our party of six to that meal ; for, although we had been fasting for a long time, we were not yet suffering the pangs of real hunger, and were greatly in doubt as to just what would meet the demands of the case. After much debate we presented the steward with the following order ; —

Mr. P. — Potatoes and salt beef.

Mrs. P. — Crackers and cheese.

Mr. A. — Salt fish and boiled potatoes.

Mrs. A. — Ice, celery, and salt!

Mr. S. — Tea.

Miss S. — Sardines.

1 6 IN THE CARIBBEAN.

Our anxious thought had not been in vain ; the meal was a perfect success, and we felt as if we had had a banquet.

The fourth day we were in the Caribbean s and had a little respite from rocking. It was a beautiful day. The water was smooth and of a delicate sea-green color ; flying fish and sea-cranes were all about the vessel, and the peninsula of Yucatan was in sight. It is a desolate, uninhabited shore, with the wreck of a vessel visible, and an old ruined castle of stone, which has been there hundreds of years, but has long been tenanted only by sea-birds, which flock there in thousands. We passed one fishing vessel, and saw in the distance a steamer with all sails set. These were the only ships seen on the voyage, and Yucatan was the only point of land.

i After our calm day we hoped for a peaceful night's rest, but the wind blew a perfect hurricane all night, and the steamer creaked and snapped as if it were coming to pieces. Moreover, the machinery was out of order, and frequent stops were made to take soundings. This unpleasant state of affairs continued until the afternoon of the fifth day, when we were nearing Balize, and were in calmer waters.

OUR INDIAN PILOT. 17

The sea all about here is full of dangerous coral reefs, and wrecks, which are very frequent, are hailed with delight by the natives, who gladly -Umder the lost vessel. As evening came on we saw many lights marking these numerous reefs, and at 10 o'clock were opposite the " English Key," where an Indian pilot was to come on board. The captain whistled, and a small sailboat appeared and came alongside. There were two Indians in the little boat, who seemed entirely overcome by the risk of their situation, and shouted to each other in most nervous, alarmed, and anxious tones while their boat was coming into position and the pilot was getting on board. The captain remarked, " These fellows haven't a bit of nerve ; they fly all to pieces at the least excitement."

The pilot was a short, squat Carib Indian, and everything — ship, lives, and cargo — was intrusted to his hands. It was a brisrht starlight night. Everybody was on deck and perfectly quiet. The Indian, the wheelman, ship's pilot, and captain, all watched from the pilot-house, looking out upon the reefs toward the lights of Balize. The silence was broken only by the Ca-

1 8 ARRIVAL AT BALIZE.

rib's orders, given every few minutes. The steamer barely crept along, taking a crooked path, picking its way among the dangerous reefs. At last, at the end of two hours, just at midnight, the anchor dropped, and the gun proclaimed to Balize that the Wanderer had come.

Chapter II. Balize, Livingston, And The Caribs

There being no wharf at Balize, the steamer was obliged to anchor half a mile out, and wait for morning to land passengers, who go ashore in small sailboats that come out from Balize. Early in the morning we were awakened by a babel of strange voices, in which only frequent cries of "Alick!" "Alick!" could be distinguished, and, on looking out, we found the steamer completely thronged with negro boys on the alert for passengers. " Alick" was an active colored boy of some fifteen years, and seemed to be the leader of this numerous crowd. He had a goodsized sailboat, which he managed with the help of another boy, and we engaged him to take us across. The water was full of sharks, great ugly fellows, who completely surrounded the vessel, eagerly snapping at the food thrown out by the steward, and furnishing amusement for the col-

20 TROPICAL LUXURIANCE.

ored boys, who were trying to shoot them with their old muskets. We naturally inquired into the ferocity of these sharks, as we were crossing in the sailboat, and were regaled with stories of men who had been tipped over and immediately devoured, or only escaped by leaving behind an arm or leg. But, besides sharks, these waters abound in very fine fish, and, on inquiring what was the best, "Alick" replied, "Wall, for my eating, give me Jew fish," and we found no one to dispute his taste.

From the sailboat we stepped directly into the yard of the International Hotel, and into the midst of tropical verdure. My father said at once, " How natural it looks, so like the West Indies ! " But I had never been in the tropics before, and could only stand spellbound, lost in wonder at so new and strange a scene. There were most beautiful flowers, cocoanut, banana, bread-fruit and mango trees everywhere, but turkey buzzards, lizards, and spiders, as well. To be sure, I had seen pictures of tropical plants, and single specimens in hothouses ; but that, after all, gave me a very slight idea of the reality, and I felt as if I had suddenly been transplanted

OUR HOSTELRY. 21

to another world, and could not realize that less than two weeks before I had been in snowbound New England, which was at that moment still wrapt in a mantle of snow.

The hotel was a quite large white building, with broad piazzas on each floor, and made very open, so as to catch all the breezes. The landlord, a Scotchman, was kind, obliging, and entertaining, the very embodiment of chain-lightning in speech and motion, but little can be said in praise of the hotel. The beds were as hard as if constructed entirely of the native mahogany, and the table offered nothing but a very pretentious bill of fare, with no substantial equivalent. Still, one who has travelled in the tropics knows this to be characteristic, and refrains from complaining. However, one circumstance was rather trying — we asked for some lime lemonade, and, because there were " no limes in the hotel," actually had to go without it, when there were bushels of limes within a stone's throw almost to be had for the asking.

Balize is the capital of British Honduras, and a very old town, first settled in 1670, but never entirely free from trouble with the Spanish until

22 AN AFTER-DINNER DRIVE.

1783. The population is about five thousand, of which three hundred are whites, mostly Scotch, and the rest mainly negroes. The climate is warm, but considered healthy, the excessive heat being tempered by an east wind, which blows nine months out of the year. It is an important depot of British supplies, having a good position on the sea, and at the mouth of a navigable river, and exports tropical fruits, dyewoods, sarsaparilla, and mahogany.

A drive of an hour after dinner showed us the whole place. The main street, which has but few branches, runs parallel with the sea, crossing the river by a bridge w T hich is the great meeting-place of the people, and thronged morning and night by crowds of men and women. The better houses are all white wooden structures, but the negro huts are often most dilapidated, and just ready to tumble down. For a place of its size, there are many public buildings, a hospital, poorhouse, and insane-asylum, supported by the government, numerous schools and churches of various denominations. The natives are very constant attendants at church. Just opposite the hotel was a High Episcopal Church, which holds service three

AN ODD CEMETERY. 23

times a day nearly every day in the week, and, when we were there, though it was a week day, was filled to overflowing at its third service. This extraordinary attendance would doubtless be modified somewhat if there were a theatre or any place of amusement there.

The cemetery is very odd looking, the dead being buried in brick vaults above the ground, from the fact that Balize is below the level of the sea. Burial takes place immediately after death, on account of the heat, and a little quicklime is put in each coffin, so that everything soon disappears, and the vaults can be cleaned out every seven years. The barracks are situated just outside the town, in a rather pretty spot by the sea. Here places are arranged for bathing, all fenced in to keep out the sharks, which come and stick their heads through the opening when one ventures to bathe.

The standing army consists of fifty men, all negroes ! They are very proud to be called "British subjects," and will "sell their heads" for the honor of that title.

The place is well governed, and the negroes are, for the most part, quiet and peaceable. The

laws are very strict in regard to the observance of the Sabbath and the sale of liquors. Licenses are granted, but no saloon is open Sunday, or after eight o'clock at night. This was the only place in all the journey, outside of the United States, where Sunday was observed at all.

On account of the heat, nearly all business is done in the early part of the day. Meals are as follows: Coffee and bread, 5:30; breakfast, 9:30; dinner, 4:30. Ladies seldom go out between breakfast and dinner. By seven o'clock in the morning the market is quite deserted, as all fish and meat have to be disposed of as soon as possible. Fish is caught at two or three o'clock in the morning, and all meat bought Saturday for Sunday has to be parboiled and pickled. The market and all stores are closed at four in the afternoon, after which no one pretends to work.

On the whole, Balize is a rather pretty place, and quite a centre of society and fashion, bearing much the same relation to this part of the country that Boston does to New England.

The next afternoon we embarked once more, and in the morning were off Livingston, where we gladly left the Wanderer ; although we were