Letters from the continent : containing sketches of foreign scenery and manners; with hints as to the different modes of travelling, expense of living, etc

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Letter I. Rotterdam Boompjes Sledges Trade

CATHEDRAL.

Rotterdam, April 27, 1826.

We embarked from the Custom-house, London, on board the Queen of the Netherlands steam packet, yesterday morning at eight o'clock. The day was fine, and we enjoyed to the full the rich and animating scene which the Thames always presents. On gaining the open sea, however, all enjoyment was at an end ; the wind blew very fresh, the ship rolled

tremendously, and but I need not say what

followed. We landed here exactly at noon, having spent twenty-eight hours on the water. What a change from England to Holland ! I don't believe there can be a greater contrast between London and Canton, than between London and Rotterdam. The

* ROTTERDAM.

town is so intersected with canals, that it consists not so much of streets, as of a succession of quays, which, for the most part, have a row of remarkablyfine elm trees along the water's edge. Of these, the handsomest is the one on which we landed, called the Boorapjes ; it is little short of a mile in length, and contains a number of very fine houses, each vying with the other in neatness. The largest ships come close to shore and discharge their valuable cargoes into warehouses, which bear the appearance of so many palaces : this may especially be remarked of the East India Company's house.

The Dutch, though an industrious race, as the very existence of their country proves, are yet not fond of exerting themselves for trifles. For example, the ladies, who stay much at home, but are nevertheless curious as to what is going on out of doors, cannot be at the trouble of rising from their seats at the window every time a passing carriage excites their curiosity, so in order to gratify this innate propensity with as little inconvenience to themselves as possible, a prism-shaped frame is fastened outside, about a foot from the window, having two of its sides furnished with a mirror. By means of this a person sitting by the side of a window is enabled to see objects approaching in both directions. A porter with a load on his back is seldom seen :

ROTTERDAM. 3

packages, even such as do not exceed fifty pounds in weight, are consigned to a sledge, and drawn by a horse perhaps sixteen hands high. The sledges are composed of two long pieces of wood, joined together by two cross pieces at short distances from each end. Not being shod with iron, and being frequently drawn along at a rapid rate over a rough pavement, they would no doubt take fire, were it not for the following very simple contrivance. On the fore part of the sledge is fixed a barrel of water, with a spile hole just over each side-piece : at each step the horse takes, the water spirts out, moistens the pavement, and not only facilitates the motion of the sledge, but prevents its igniting by constant friction.

Trade is at a very low ebb, as is the case, I believe, with most of the Dutch towns. The number of inhabitants amounts to nearly 60,000, whose chief dependence is on trade and its proceeds : the consequence is, that there exists mueh poverty among the lower orders. The local and national taxes are very high ; there is not only a house and window tax, but a door tax, a chimney tax, and a furniture tax : a poor man who rents an apartment at fifty florins # a year, pays taxes to the amount of

* About L. 4 sterling. a2

4 ROTTERDAM.

ten. Provisions are dear in consequence of the high duties exacted on all articles of consumption. There is one evil belonging to Rotterdam in common with most towns in Holland, which every traveller ought to be aware of, in order that he may guard against its pernicious effects : I allude to the water, which is so bad, that any one not habituated to it, who partakes freely of it, will hardly escape an attack of dysentery. The statue of Erasmus in the market place, and the Great Church, are the objects most worthy of observation. The highly talented reformer, is represented with a book in his hand, and in the attitude of deep meditation ; the statue is in bronze, and, as a work of art, possesses no very great share of merit. The Cathedral is an immense building, whose proportions are partly hidden and partly spoiled by the shops and houses, which, with a mistaken indifference as to " outward show," have been permitted to rise up between the buttresses. The tower is remarkably fine, and the interior is admirably arranged, both as far as regards the preacher and the congregation. The church contains some good monuments, of which those to the memory of Admirals de Witt and Brakel, are worthy of the great names they are intended to hand down to posterity.

ROTTERDAM. 5

There are in Rotterdam several societies or clubs, associated for purposes of amusement and recreation. Their places of meeting are for the most part out of the town, and consist of gardens, billiard, and ball rooms, skittle grounds and smoking houses, whither the wealthy burgers resort after the toil of business is over, to indulge in an hour or two's relaxation. We had an introduction to one of these pleasure gardens; but the season for resorting to them was not yet begun.

Letter II. Utrecht— Nimuegen Steam Packet — C0ln

Before saying any thing to you of this place, I must give you a brief sketch of our journey from Rotterdam. Not wishing to go all the way by water, we set out on the 29th ultimo, at eight in the morning, in the Diligence for Utrecht, in order that we might be able to meet the steam packet at Nimuegen the following day. The first few miles of our road lay through a country the most singular in the world : I would almost describe it as water with some small portion of land, so numerous and wide are the ditches, and so narrow are the fields they enclose. Neatness, however, extraordinary neatness is the characteristic of Holland ; and wherever you look it is sure to meet your eye. For some distance we travelled along a road paved with bricks turned down edgeways, and so smooth and even, that it was with difficulty we kept ourselves awake. The small inn where we first changed horses was neatness itself : the space in front of it was nicely

UTRECHT. 7

sprinkled over with clean sand, and he must have been a barbarian who could have entered the house without carefully wiping off every particle of dirt which might chance to adhere to his shoes.

On approaching Utrecht, the country assumes a new and more interesting appearance. Numerous country houses, pleasantly situated by the road side, show that the Dutchman can occasionally leave his shop or counting house, and betake himself (but always with his pipe) to a distance from the fatigues of business.

The remains of the church at Utrecht are on a very grand scale, and lead one to form a lofty conception of the building when entire. There is nothing else in the town of any interest. We left it at six a. M. on the 30th, in the Nimuegen Diligence, which was disagreeably crowded, the inside passengers being twelve in number. In compensation, however, for this annoyance, we had a fine rich country to travel through ; magnificent country, or pleasure houses, as they are called, follow one another in quick succession ; they are for the most part embosomed in woods, composed of the finest possible timber trees. The grounds appear laid out with great taste ; and we readily pardoned some of the more ambitious proprietors, who, because nature has denied them mountains, have thrown up artifi-

8 NIMUEGEN.

cial mounds in their shrubberies. The soil, though light, appears to be very productive.

For the last fifteen miles before reaching Nimuegen, our fears were kept constantly on the alert by the state of the road, which is elevated on a narrow bank about twenty feet above the level of the country : the bank is so narrow, that it is only here and there that two carriages can pass one another ; add to this, that there is scarcely any part of the road protected by parapets, that our coachman was more than half intoxicated, and you will easily believe me when I tell you, that we did not much enjoy our afternoon's drive. After crossing first the Rhine, and afterwards the Whaal, which are separated by a very small interval,* we arrived at Nimuegen

DUSSELDORF. 9

about half past three in the afternoon. We took a few turns on the old ramparts, which are now converted into most delightful promenades, commanding a fine view of the surrounding country; traversed one or two of the best streets, which are veryneat and regular, and then yielding to an increasing rain, betook ourselves to our inn for the night.

The following morning at four we embarked on board the steam packet, a very fine vessel, and containing excellent accommodations. We were driven onwards against a powerful current, at the rate of five or six miles an hour, by two engines of thirty horse power. The water being low, and the banks high, it was only on approaching some town or village that any thing was to be seen beyond the limits of the river. It was ten o'clock at night before we reached Dusseldorf : our fellow passengers set out in eager haste to procure beds in the town ; but the lateness of the hour induced us to dispense with this trouble, and having obtained the captain's leave, we laid ourselves down on the benches of the cabin, flattering ourselves that we should have a comfortable night's rest. But, alas ! after we had lain about two hours, the boatmen began to break the coals on deck, which were to supply the fires next day : from that moment it was impossible to sleep. However, on the return of our fellow travellers to the

10 COLN.

vessel, the marks they bore on their faces and hands, satisfied us, that if we had fared ill, they had fared worse.

It was half an hour after noon when we landed here : gratified on the whole with our voyage. The steam packet certainly is a most excellent conveyance; the vessel is so large and so well arranged, that very little smell from the engine room penetrates the large cabin. Whenever we tired of looking at the dancing waters of the noble river, we had only to turn into the cabin, which is a spacious apartment, and write letters, or read any of the most popular English or French publications of the day, of which there is a tolerably good supply on board. — The living is good and sufficiently reasonable. The fare is not extravagant, being thirteen florins # for travelling about 100 miles. — The principal objects of attention here are the Cathedral with its contents, and Rubens's celebrated picture of the crucifixion of St. Peter. The cathedral, so much of it at least as is completed, is the ne plus nltra of Gothic splendor. Of the towers, one is only raised about thirty feet from the foundation, the other is much more advanced, and, as far as it goes, is a model of elegance. The main body of

* About L.l, Is.

COLN. 11

the church is only raised to half its originally intended height, and is covered with a mean looking wooden roof. The choir alone is finished, and nothing can exceed the elegance of its form, the lightness of its windows, and the high finishing of the sculptured ornaments ; the light too, admitted through painted glass, has something sacred in its hue ; yet the effect of all this is sadly diminished by gaudy and paultry ornaments, which are considered indispensable in the celebration of divine worship, according to the forms of the Roman Catholic Church. Instead of stalls richly carved, such as we see in some of our cathedrals, the choir is hung with tapestry, beautiful indeed, but sadly misplaced; while upon the high altar stands the sanctuary in the form of a Grecian temple; I could only exclaim, what taste ! and then follow the sacristan to the tomb of the three kings, I can hardly say, supposed to be the three kings or wise men, who came guided by a star to worship the infant Saviour, yet certainly represented as such: even their names are recorded on a brazen tablet in front of the shrine. The tomb itself is shut out from the public view, and is only seen on payment of five franks ; it is richly studded with precious stones of every description, and would look well in the show rooms of Messrs Rundell and Bridges, but here

12 COLN.

it is certainly out of place. The stones about it are said to be worth six million of francs. * The silver shrine of St. Engelbert is a beautiful piece of workmanship, and is much more appropriated to its situation. The cathedral is now undergoing repairs, which are estimated at the enormous sum of 700,000 f Prussian dollars ; but you must not understand from this that there is any idea of completing the structure ; such a consummation, however devoutly to be desired, can never be effected, unless the finances of his Prussian majesty be increased much beyond their present condition.

Rubens's picture J is a noble specimen of the art ; it was presented by him to the church in which he was christened. The Town Hall is a fine old Gothic structure, and its portico is made the depository of some highly interesting historical monuments, inscriptions speaking the gratitude of the ancient

J The crucifixion of St. Peter. — At the back of this picture is but an indifferent copy : they are contained in the same frame, which revolves on a pivot ; and the Sacristan who is a man of some humour, not unfrequently allows the uninitiated to exhaust their praises on the counterfeit, and then going behind the frame gives it a push, and exhibits to the mortified wouldbe-amateur the original painting.

COLN. 13

inhabitants, the Ubii, to the different Roman emperors who had protected or shown them favours. Coin is as little attractive in appearance as any town can well be ; its streets are narrow, and ill paved, the houses high and gloomy looking ; there are several open places, which, though they have the general appellation, have few of the essential characteristics of squares : the hay-market however may be excepted. The inhabitants bear a high reputation for urbanity and good manners, and are very attentive to strangers, who happen to be provided with even one respectable introduction. The finest view of Coin is from the eastern extremity of the bridge over the Rhine ; the numerous towers, and spires, the variety and extent of the buildings which fill up the fore ground, the vessels crowded three or four deep along the quay, the perpetual swarm of passengers passing and repassing on the bridge ; and last of all, the noble river itself pursuing its course in silent rapidity, all conspire to form a picture worthy the pencil of a Teniers.

Letter III. Hanseatic League — Coblentz

EHRENBREITSTEIN.

Coblentz, May 7, 1826.

The drive from Coin to this place cannot fail to be highly gratifying, even to the most fastidious searcher after the beauties of nature. After travelling for about twenty-five miles through a rich plain, cultivated like any garden, we entered the defile of the Rhine, so celebrated for its romantic scenery. Do not expect that I should give you a description of it ; in the language of poetry alone can it be pourtrayed with any degree of justice — all that the most skilful composer of ideal scenery could do with wood and water, hill and dale, modern villages and ruined castles, has here been done, and is to be seen in every possible variety from Bonn to Bingen. The Rhine is here an impetuous river, there a placid lake ; the mountains here frown in threatening aspect, hanging over the agitated flood, there expand into graceful amphitheatres, clothed with the fruitful vine, while all between is

COBLENTZ. 15

one rich orchard. Here a peaceful village attracts the traveller's attention, there a pile of ruins perched on the summit of a rocky hill, recals him to ages long gone by, when princes and barons were the highwaymen of the day. About the middle of the thirteenth century, these highborn robbers were so numerous, and their depredations so destructive of commerce, that the principal mercantile towns of Europe, all of them more or less interested in the cause, entered into a solemn league for protecting the navigation of the Rhine ; the formation of this league, called the Hanseatic League, was quickly followed by the demolition of all the strong holds along the banks of the river, which from being the terror of the navigator, were thus converted into the admiration of the future tourist.

This town has a distinguishing air of neatness and regularity. The streets are wide, and some of the squares spacious and handsome. The principal object of attention is the celebrated fortress called Ehrenbreitstein, or the broad stone of honour. Before giving you a description of its actual condition, I must give you a brief sketch of its eventful history. There is every reason to believe that it was a strong-hold of the Romans in the time of the emperor Julian, and that it underwent the fate of all their fortresses erected for the purpose of protecting

16 EHRENBREITSTEIN.

Gaul from the destructive incursions of the German tribes : but it is not till the twelfth century that it figures as a place of much importance. From that period, the possession of it seems to have been fiercely contested in the continual wars carried on between the Germans and French, It is first spoken of as in the possession of the Elector of Treves. In the " thirty years war," he having admitted within it a French garrison, the Imperialists laid siege to it, and at length reduced it by starvation ; and it was not restored to the Electorate till the peace of Westphalia in 1649. During another war between these ever restless powers, towards the end of the seventeenth century, it sustained a long and terrible siege by a division of the Imperial army, but was not reduced to surrender. During the revolutionary war, the French generals were well aware of its vast importance to them as commanding the passage of the Rhine ; they laid siege to it in 1795, but were compelled to withdraw on the approach of the Austrians : the same occurred twice in 1796, and again in the following year. But in 1798, when the Congress was sitting at Rastat, the siege was pushed with so much vigour, and the provisions of the fortress were reduced to so low an ebb, that it surrendered; and that it might not again be in a condition to impede their ambitious

EHRENBREITSTEIN. 17

designs in that direction, the fortifications were blown up, and the place rendered untenable. In this state it continued till the general peace in 1815, when it was ceded with Coblentz to Prussia. It is now, at an enormous expense, towards which the French were compelled to contribute very largely, not only restored, but so much improved and extended, that military men have pronounced it to be impregnable. It contains quarters for 10,000 troops : it is now, even in time of peace, victualled for two years ; the only point, by which it is accessible, is mined, and ready to be blown up at a moment's warning. In short, it is the King's hobby.* We were permitted to ascend the hill and range about every part of the fortress except the citadel. The views from it are exceedingly beautiful. The town of Coblentz (Confluentia), lays extended immediately beneath, and close at hand is seen the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, whose waters continue perfectly distinct for the distance of a couple of leagues, those of the former being of a pale clear colour, while those of the latter are of a muddy hue. But to re-

* Since this was written, the works have been brought to a conclusion ; and all strangers are excluded from the fortress by the most peremptory orders.

B

18 EHRENBREITSTEIN.

turn to the fortress : It rises to the height of 670 feet above the level of the river, and notwithstanding that, is perforated by a shaft which descends below the bed of the river, which insures a constant supply of wholesome water for the garrison. The difficulty of conveying building materials to the summit, has given occasion to a simple contrivance, by means of which two horses can do the work, which it required sixteen to execute before. On the side next the river, an inclined plain has been cut in the face of the rock, reaching from the quay to the level of the citadel ; upon this are two iron rail ways, separated by a flight of steps, 670 in number; two cars connected with each other by a chain, are kept constantly at work, one ascending with stone and lime, while the other descends loaded with rubbish, if there be any, or else empty ; the time occupied in delivering a load of stone at the works on the height is only fifteen minutes, and the labour is performed, as I have just said, by two horses. The head of the inclined plain is guarded by an iron gate; which is highly necessary, for it is frightful to look down, and would turn the steadiest head that was not habituated to such things. Two years ago an unfortunate soldier undertook for a wager to descend by it, but he had not proceeded a dozen of steps before he became giddy, lost his foot-

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ing, and was precipitated to the bottom, where he was taken up a mangled corpse.

I shall conclude my Letter with an anecdote highly illustrative of the good humour and ready wit which is said to characterize the Russians. In 1812, when Napoleon was on his way to join the grand army destined to subdue Russia, he slept at Coblentz, and caused this inscription to be engraved on a fountain just then completed in front of the hotel at which he had descended. " Memorable pour la Carapagne contre les Russes, 1812." The following year, after the memorable defeat of the French, a detachment of the Russian army took possession of Coblentz. Some unworthy citizen, desirous of gaining favour with the new comers, pointed out the inscription to the Russian commander ; expecting doubtless a reward for his pains, and to see the structure levelled with the ground. He was, however, disappointed ; the general ordered these words to be added to the inscription, " Vue et approve par nous, commandant Russe de la ville de Coblentz." The name of the prefet under whose auspices the first inscription was written, and also of the good humoured Russian who added the appendix, form part of the inscription, but not having my tablets with me at the time, they have escaped my memory.

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Letter IV. Mayence Its History

Mayence, May 9.

After a journey of two days, rendered disagreeable by continued rain, we arrived here yesterday at four p. m. The valley of the Rhine is more preeminently beautiful above than below Coblentz: the hills rise more abruptly from their bases; the river is confined within a narrower channel, and is therefore more impetuous ; and the ruins are at once on a grander scale, and more picturesque. The whole tract of country from Bonn to Bingen would richly repay a pedestrian for any inconveniences or fatigue he might incur in the expedition : if an antiquarian, the numerous ruins would provide food for his fancy during a whole summer : if a mineralogist, there are mines to visit producing silver, and lead ore ; numerous masses of basalt, and other indications of volcanic processes : if an horticulturist, he could not fail to be highly delighted, for the whole country is a garden ; the plain covered with pear, apple, or cherry trees, and the hill sides devoted to the vine, which is here cultivated with the greatest care, and, as we all know, with veryconsiderable success. The amateur artist might find ample employment for his pencil, and fill a sketch book of no inconsiderable dimensions, and yet leave many points unexplored. In short, whatever be a man's turn, he cannot fail to meet with much to interest and amuse him in such an excursion.

But to return to Mayenee : it is a town of vast extent, contains some fine streets and squares, but possesses little to interest or detain the modern tourist : the population is very small compared with its extent, and there is in consequence an air of nakedness about it, which not a numerous garrison, with all its pomp and circumstance, can dissipate. But in an historical point of view, Mayenee is far from being devoid of interest : bear with me then, while I give you a brief sketch of its history, from the time of its being the head quarters of the Roman army destined for repressing the incursions of the German tribes, to the present day.

It was about twenty years prior to the Christian era, that Drusus, a stepson of Augustus, took the command of the Roman army on the banks of the Rhine. His attention was of course immediately directed to the line of fortresses established along the western bank of the river ; they were few in number, and separated by very considerable intervals. He increased their number to fifty : of these Magonciacum was the chief and most southern. This fortress was erected in the year 18 b. a, and the legions employed in its construction were the second and fourteenth. Under Trajan were laid the foundations of the Municipium, or city. In the year 79 a. d. the emperor Hadrian caused a stone bridge to be thrown over the Rhine, of which no traces now remain ; he also extended the works, and added to them two additional forts, styled Castra Superna and Inferna. Magonciacum thus be* came the capital of the province of the higher Rhine. In the fourth century its inhabitants embraced Christianity. About this time the Germans made an incursion into Gaul, and after having destroyed almost all the Castra and towns erected and fostered by the Romans on the left bank of the river, were driven back by Julian. Towards the latter part of the same century, in the year 367, the Germans again invaded Gaul, and on Easter Day stormed and took Magonciacum, putting the garrison and the inhabitants to the sword. As the object of these restless barbarians was plunder, and not extension of territory, they seldom remained long in a vanquished country.

Thus we find, that in the beginning of the fifth century, Magonciacum was again become a place of importance. However, in a few years the Vandals inundated the country; Magonciacum, after a long siege, was reduced to surrender, and another massacre ensued. After a third restoration to tranquillity, it was once more, in 451, sacked by the Huns under Atila ; and, in a word, such was the critical situation of this place, that it was the continual scene of slaughter and devastation. It was not till the year 622, that Dagobert, king of the Francs, seeing the great importance of Magonciacum for securing his dominions against the perpetual inroads of the northern tribes, entirely restored the fortress, and made to it considerable additions : he may be said to be the first founder of the town of Mayence. In the time of Charlemagne it was in a very flourishing condition, and that emperor, whose designs upon Germany were very ambitious, caused a wooden bridge to be thrown over the river, resting on the piers of the ancient bridge erected by the Romans, It lasted, however, but a very short time, being destroyed by fire. In the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries, Mayence continued to prosper under the immediate rule of its archbishops, who held under the successors of Charlemagne. These at length, however, arrogated to themselves the sovereignty of Mayence and its dependencies, declared themselves independent of the emperors, and even claimed a voice in their election. From these domestic rulers, now converted into cruel tyrants, the inhabitants were at length delivered by Adelbert the first, king of France, who took them under his protection, and gave them a patent of freedom, which was engraved on the metal doors of the church of Notre Dame. # After a long succession of wars, in which Mayence always had its share of suffering, we find it, in the year 1254, taking the lead in the formation of the famous Hanseatic League, for protecting the navigation of the Rhine. In the fifteenth century it became the birthplace and nursery of printing; and from the press of one Guttenberg the first printed Bible appeared in 1450. On the 8th of December 1631, the great Gustavus Adolphus, at the head of a victorious army, sat down before it, and summoned it to surrender ; but it was not till the 13th of the same month that he succeeded in dislodging the garrison, which was composed of Spaniards, and took possession of the fortress. The Swedes remained masters of Mayence for five years, having sustained in that interval two successive sieges.