Travels in lands beyond the sea. Beauty and glory of western Europe ... pen pictures of castles, cathedrals, and cities ...

Front matter

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TRAVELS

IN LANDS

Chapter I

Why and How this Volume Was Published — The Author's Father — Came from England — Settled in Pennsylvania — Asked His Son to Make Pilgrimage — His Sudden Death — Correspondence Lasting Sixty Years — White, Roaring Billows Cannot Drown Love Letters — Bereavement, Sorrow, Labors and Cares Call for Rest and Change — A Friend Indeed — Getting Ready to Go — Passport, and Letters from Prominent Men — Governor Beaver's Letter — Congressman Osborne's Letter — Other Letters — Taking Leave — America's Shores Sink in Silver — At Liverpool — Through England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, France ; Paris and London — Relatives Helpful — Weather Most Auspicious — Things Pictured on the Spot — Good Wishes — Grasp Each Reader by the Hand.

Chapter II

Saying " Good Bye " to Relatives, Partner and Friends — Looking Down on Luzerne and Other Counties — In New Jersey — Rushing Through Cities While Long, White, Guardian Arms Rise and Fall — In New York — Central Park — Monuments and Monsters from Beyond the Sea — Carriages for Pale Babies, and Proud Millionaires — Took Baggage to Steamship — At Coney Island; its Hotels, its Flowers, its Swimmers, its Wine, its Women, its Tower, its Friends — A Sea-shell Containing Sixty-five Master Musicians — The Gardens Blossom With Fire — A Place to Learn — A Place to Fall — Sham Battle — Bay Full of (1)

IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA.

Ships at Night — The Heavens Frescoed With Colored Lights — Statue of Liberty — Brooklyn Bridge; an Artificial Midnight Rainbow — Ready to Wave a Farewell to My Native Land.

CHAPTER III. " Behold Also the Ships " 40

Twenty-three Hundred Miles of Billows — Passengers Variously Engaged — Look Through the Great Ship ; Where Built ; Her Size ; One-tenth of a Mile Long ; Her Weight; Her Mines of Coal — Passengers — Crew — Two Stories Under Water — The Steerage — The Gilded Saloon — Ten Thousand Horses of Steel to Conquer the Sea — The Raging Furnaces and Sweating Firemen on the Floor of the Ship — "You Are Chalked" — The Vast, Virtuous Ocean — Noon in the Deep — Time Annihilated — The Iron Tunnel — Thirty-five Boat Loads of Fuel — Man Moves All the Oceans — Queenstown — Letters — On to Liverpool.

Chapter IV

On Board the Ship— Hot Day— An Acre of Waving Handkerchiefs, Damp With Tears and Perspiration — Band Plays " Auld Lang Syne " — Moving off Through a Labyrinth of Great Things— Other Europe-bound Steamers — Officers Vigilant— Hills Sink With the Sun at the West End of a Broad, Silver Avenue— Hot Below Deck— My Bedroom — My Comrades — The Spouting Wliale — Ship Fare — Sunday on the Sea — Religious Services — Fog — Birds — Porpoises — Big Fish — Colored Fish — The Sea Tries to Mimic the Heavens — -A World of Water Five Miles Deep ; its Gleaming Amis Encircle the Icy North and the Spicy Groves of "Far Cathay" — Friends on Deck — What Sea Water is Like — People from all Over the United States and Canada — A Gallant Earl and His Fair Countess; Gentle Folks; They Amuse and Treat Poor Children — Names of Some Fellow-passengers — Ocean Rough— Many 111 — The Writer Keeps W r ell and Sways in a Hammock Worth Fifteen Hundred Thousand Dollars — Cool on the Sea in July — Ireland Seen Through Fog — Pleasant Sight — The Old " Stow-a-way " Receives a Sovereign — Off Queenstown — Sailing Under Birds on the Irish Sea.

Chapter V

Sunday Afternoon of Beauty and Peace — Heaven Weds Earth — Mountain Peaks in Wales — Nobility, Peasantry, Beauty and Genius Sing on Deck — Twilight Enchanting — Ladies Scream and Faint — Revolving Lights Twinkle on England's Shores — Liverpool — Our Ship Linked to 18,000 Pounds of Steel on the Floor of the Sea — Mr. Puckey Finds Me — Liverpool Docks — Cost Hundreds of Millions of Dollars — A Vast Ship-safe — The World's Merchandise Piled on Chiseled Rocks — Acres of American Pork and Lard — Handsome Ladies — Horses a "Ton Weight" — A Horse Under Seven Tons of Plate Glass — Great Buildings — Forlorn Creatures — Railway Trains Roaring Under Hundreds of Ships — A Wilkes- Barre Girl Met — Mighty Ships Cushioned in Granite Vases — The Angel of Light Places Her Jeweled Foot on the Flowing Mane of the Sea.

CHAPTER VI. Liverpool, Manchester and Leeds 74

Liverpool Buildings Gloomy — Seemed to Show Mourning — Death on Shipboard — Pet Names — Traveling Underground — English Cars, Locomotives and Stations — Thirty-six Miles in Forty-five Minutes — Oaks Killed by Smoke — English Landscapes — Great, Busy Manchester — Ship Canal — Magnificent Hall — Forty Acres of Masterpieces in Art, Machinery, Architecture, and Flora— Crowds of Handsome, Well-dressed Women — Gardens Blooming with Colored Lights — Fountains of Gilded Water — A Sweet Voice — Riding Through Long, Dark Highways in Granite — Hedges, Stone Walls— Under Three Miles of Rock — Acres of Smoking Chimneys — The Guest of Kind People — Pleasant Walk — Extensive Buildings — Great Co-operative Concern — Street-cars — Dummies — Road Engines.

CHAPTER VII. York and Whitby 8j

Through Farms — August First, Wheat not Ripe — City of York — Its Beauty — Its Antiquity — Promenade on Its Old and Beautiful Wall — Roman Stone Coffins — Old Places — Old Church Hidden in a City -Magnificent Old York Minster; A Window Four Hundred Years Old Makes the Sun Paint Rare Pictures, " Worth a King-

IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA.

dom; " Covers Two Thousand Four Hundred and Fifty-six Square Feet — A Tall Stone Ladder— Angel Tones — Choir Uniformed — History of the Cathedral — On Through Yorkshire Highlands — Grouse on Purple Heather — River Esk — Cousin John Wears Livery — Whitby — Cousin Edward — One Linskill — High Cliff — White Waves Die at the Feet of Beauty and Innocence — The Panoramic Sea — Grandparents' Graves Near Great Columns and Arches in Ruins.

Chapter VIII

A Cleft Cliff — Houses Hanging on Rocks Above Ships — Red Tiles — Narrow Streets— The Market Place — Strawberries in August — Fishwomen — Tons of Fish Gasping on Granite Pavements, and Buried in Salt and Ice — ■ Elegant West Cliff — London Visitors — Cold — Many Ships — A Walk With Edward — Ship- Building — Windmill — By the Sea — Uncle James — A Railway on Tall, IiT>n Stilts Above a Granite Hamlet, and Hay-Makers by the Chapel — A Walk With Friend Waddington — His Varied and Agreeable Attainments — A Walking and Free Library — Captain Cook — Hilda's Fine Ruins — Ancient Church — Humble Elliot Wrested a Title From Fate and Royalty — ■ A Feast at a Saloon in a Cliff — Men Gone Down to the Sea to Take Whales, Fish, Gold and Kingdoms — Taw- Bones of Whales set up for Garden and Farm Gates — - Alum — Jet- Works and Jet- Workers — When the Lordly Die, Jet-Dealers Thrive.

CHAPTER IX. London: Great and Beautiful Things 104

Heart of England — Leamington, Warwickshire — Oxford — Wisdom Crowns Wasting Stone — On to London — Sixty-Three Miles in Seventy-Five Minutes — Suburbs of the Great City — Paddington's Great Station — House of Parliament — Chamber of Commons — Music Wedded to Time — Sir John Puleston — House of Lords— -Westminster Abbey — Cousins Found — Trafalgar Square — National Art Gallery— The "Wild West"'— Blanketed Indians Under the Stars and Stripes in the World's Largest City — Awful Lightning and Thunder — Buffalo Bill, While Galloping, Shatters Glittering Balls Amid Lightning and Falling Rain — "Brother Jonathan" and "Johnny Bull" Contending Amid Clashing Elements, etc.

Chapter X

Smoke from a Million Chimneys — One Hundred and Fifty Square Miles of Buildings — A Modern Jonah — Plaided with Railways — Seven Thousand Miles of Streets — London Fog — Dinner by Lamp-light — Lost in the Street — Walked into the Dock — Beef Cattle Choke — Travel Blockaded — -Mails Late — Crushed by Wheels Unseen — What Makes the Fog — Particles of Soot Encased in Oil and Clogged in Mist — Foggy Days Elsewhere — Moral — The Thames; a River, Sea, Sewer, Highway and Harbor — Embankment — Obelisk — Moses, Napoleon and Others — Royal Dwellings — Parks — Palaces — Black Thorns and Bright Bayonets.

CHAPTER XL

London's Vastness, St. Paul's Cathedral, Etc 129

Fifteen Miles Through Mighty Buildings — Asking for Bread on Stone Beds— St. Paul's Marvelous Cathedral ; it Whispers — Marble Horses Kneel Down With Sheriffs While Saul of Tarsus Asks a Question — Angels, Women and Warriors, in Polished Marble and Bronze, Glorifying Dead Heroes — Traveling Without Loss — A Purse Thrust Into a Stranger's Bosom — A Digression — Fragments — Another Digression — Hospital Floating Through Salt Billows — The Cruel God of the Sea — Three Grand Sights — The Land of Indian Summer — Glory Undreamed of.

CHAPTER XII. Billingsgate, Tower of London, Fire, Greenwich .... 137

Fish, Carloads and Shiploads — Where Slang Was Born — Monument of London — A Thousand Acres of Buildings Bow Into Ashes — W ild Fire Darts its Red Tongue at the King and at the Heavens — The Tower of London — Dungeons Dark for a Thousand Years — Old Weapons of War Blossom in Bouquets and Decorate the Ceiling — Lady Jane Grey — Traitor's Gate — Fifteen Million Dollars' Worth of Jewelry — Garments Worn by Lovers and Warriors — Cannon from the Floor of the Bone-paved Sea — Riding on the Thames — Greenwich — Naval School — Forest of Fine Columns — Painted Hall — Ship Models — Nelson Painted a God — True to the Vision.

Chapter XIII

Crystal Palace, Westminster Abbey, Queen's Horses, Etc . . 149 Crystal Palace ; its Fountains, Statues, Paintings, and Oriental Halls — South Kensington; a City of Palaces Crowded With Beauties and Wonders — The Queen's Monument to a Loving Husband — The Museum — The First Steam Engine — Natural Science Museum — Birds Tall and Swift as Horses — Five Thousand Humming Birds — Whales, Etc. — The British Museum — Madam Toussaud's Wax Kings, Queens, Poets, Warriors, and Murderers — A Walk Under the River Thames — Spurgeon, London's Preacher — City Temple — Westminster Abbey, Where the Famous Dead Sleep for Centuries — Solemn Place, Where Stone Faces Gaze Heavenward — Stone Lace for Frescoing — Marble, Granite, Brass and Bronze Blossom Into Angels and Bouquets to Glorify the Beloved Dead — The Queen's Stables — Sixteen Princely Horses, and Two Grooms in One Bedroom — Morocco Harness, Gold-bound — Gilded Chariots.

CHAPTER XIV. Some People and Places Beyond the Sea 162

Questions Answered — A Floating Volcano — War-horses With White Manes — Ocean Robed in Crimson, Green and Gold — People and Clouds Smile — Places Visited — The Largest City — The Most Beautiful City — The Largest Ship — Where Cannon Shook Purple Heather — Cousins Met in Ancient and Famous Cities — A Walk on the Moors — Turf Cakes and Milk — A Popular Authoress — With Edward on His Locomotive — Uncle James's Blessing — Kind Friends Mentioned.

CHAPTER XV. From London to Paris, via Dover and Calais 170

A Highway Upheld on Polished Granite Pillars — Barbers and Their Work — Moving out of London — Hops in Kent — Nine Tunnels — Mary Anderson and Moonlight in Canterbury's Glory — Dover; Its Chalk Cliffs, Its Barracks, Its Boasting Cannon — Martin's Picture of Cut Woods — Leave England Before Midnight — "Caffa" in "Calla" Before Starting for "Parra" — He Knew the Stomach Better than the Tongue — Locomotives Black, Green, Yellow, Brown — The Engine Snorted Above a Tempest of French Words — Rushing Through Oatfields and Willows, by Flocks and Still Waters, in " Sunny

CONTENTS.

France" — The Sea Divorced England from France — Amiens — Trees Like Soldiers, — In Paris — Lonesome without Dinner and Friends — Three Bottles of Wine — Cook & Son — Met a Yankee in " Place Vendome " — Obelisk of Luxor — Place de la Concorde — Arc de Triomphe — Champs Elysees, etc.

CHAPTER XVI. Paris: Places ok Beauty and Places of Blood 183

Place de la Concorde — The Glittering Knife — A Lake of Blood — Pranzina Beheaded — Baptism of Blood — Foreign Armies — Lions, Bears, Eagles, Dragons — Gilded Domes Tremble — A Needle Weighing Two Hundred and Forty Tons — Asking Others to Die for Us — Champs Elysees, a Street Unequalled — A Ball-room One and a Half Miles Long, Flanked by Two Kingdoms, Nature and Art, Full of Light, Music, Beauty and Wine — The Arc de Triomphe, a Glory to Uphold Glory — Cost Millions — Pictures in Marble and Bronze — Twelve Proud, Gay Avenues Bow at its Feet — It Shows Us a Wide Panorama of Magnificence — At Dinner — Linen, Silver, Crystal, Broadcloth, Silk, Lace, Silver Hands, Gold Fingers, Mirrors, Wine, Flowers and Fountains — An Hour and a Half Going from Soup and Fish to Wine, Grapes and Peaches.

CHAPTER XVII. Paris : Her Past, Present ; Palaces and Prison 193

A City Peerless in Beauty — Buildings Bow to Winners of Glory — Eagle-mounted Banners and Numidian Lions — Csesar in a Wolf Den — Many Palaces, Few Homes — Golden Argosies Wrecked Under Rainbows — The Strange Woman — Woe to the City — Dying Alone — Sunday in Paris — Wine Flows — Buildings Going Up, etc. — Boulevards, Columns, Arches, Fountains — An Island of Flowers Floating Through Jet to Honor the Dead and Please the Living — Place de la Bastile — Angry Men Let in the Sunlight and Behead the Keepers — On Top of a Fluted, Vibrating Column of Bronze — The Tall, Gilded Angel — Red Lines in the Pavement.

CHAPTER XVIII. Paris : Places Magnificent and Glorious 201

Breakfast — Guided Through Palaces — Americans Met — The Madeleine — A Marble Splendor — The Decalogue

IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA.

Swings in Bronze — True Art Calls for Tears — Three Hundred Communists Killed Near a Pulpit — Trocadero Palace and Garden — Looking Down on a Canopy which Covers Seven Thousand Seats in Red Velvet — Steel Fingers Tower a Thousand Feet where Lightning Rules — Cathedrals Cut in Rock and Lighted by Rainbows, and Filled with Music of Seas, Birds, Thunder, etc. — Panorama of Rezonville — A Frozen Battle-field — America's Monument at Yosemite Smiling Among Clouds — Napoleon's Tomb, Guarded by Marble Heroes, Three Hundred and Forty Feet Below a Golden Hemisphere.

Chapter XIX

Note-book in Hand — Palais Royal — Dine in the Famous place— Music — Red Wine — Church St. Eustache — Crowned with Beauty and Glory — Twelve Hundred Cellars Under Twenty-Two acres of Glass-Roofed Markets — Pere La Chaise — Twenty-two Thousand Attractive Homes for the Dead — Mighty men Sleeping in Marble Beds — Abelard and Heloise, Unhappy Lovers, in Marble, Side by Side, Gazing into the Heavens — Marshal Ney's Grass- Blade Monument— A Beautiful Park — The Louvre Palace — Art Gallery one-fourth of a mile in Length — Great Paintings — Brilliant Rooms.

Chapter XX

Paris: Notre Dame, Pantheon, St. Cloud 216

Banks of the Seine — Gods Distilling Water — Bridges — How I asked Questions — Notre Dame — Impressive Building — A Marble Mountain with Pearls and Shells for Windows — Shrines — Relics — A Cathedral's use — Tower St. Tacques — The Pantheon — Artists on Scaffolds for Years — Monument to Heroes and Artists. — The Great Crown — Enroute to St. Cloud — Pare Monceau — Bois De Boulogne — Grand Avenue — Pine Vistas — Rothchild's Home — St. Cloud, Where the Great Napoleon Waved his Sword, and Vast Armies Shouted and Marched to Make Millions Mourn — Angels fly Heavenward — The Ruined Palace — The Zulu-slain Prince, etc.

CHAPTER XXI. Varsaili.es: From Paris to London 227

Forest Ville D' Avray — Boulevard De La Reine — — Versailles — A Palace a Fourth of a Mile Long —

CONTENTS.

Magnificence Brilliant with Glories— Cost One Hundred

and Twenty-seven Million Francs — Kings and Queens

Pillars of Silver amid Rainbows, Bearing up Canopies of Gold — Sevres' China Palace — Shake Hands — Angelic Guides— The Wonderful Road Thirty-five Hundred Miles Long, Running Through Empires of Wealth, Lands of Milk and Honey, and Kingdoms of Beauty and Wonder — The United States Great in Cities and Railways — No Tattered Beggars — Rushing Through France By Moonlight— Rouen Sleeping— Dieppe by the Sea— The Sea Dances in Green and White— Sea Sickness— White Cliffs of England Seen Through Mist — Rushing Through Woods, Rocks, Meadows, and Towns to London.

From

CHAPTER XXII, London to Cardiff, Wales 2 $6

Proud England by Moonlight— Shrewsbury Station- Coffee, Dogs and Babies at Midnight— Welsh Names- Hills and Vales — Water Leaping Into Green Valleys— Old Mines— Cardiff— A Letter Finds a Friend Among Heaps of Gold— Cardiff Castle— Bute Docks— The Arcade- Names from All Europe— Grapes Under Glass— A Kind Family— Penarth and Hospitality— A Popular Man— The Esplanade— Queenly Cities Lulled to Sleep— Carriages Roll and Ships Rock — Guardian Spirits Are Anxious Where Men and Women Meet Destiny— Great Printing Press— A Busy City— Farewell.

Chapter XXIII

Traveling in London — Railways Flooded — Golden Apples— Leaving Wales— Old Castle Blood-cemented— " Can We Smoke ? "—Writing on Wheels Rapidly Rolling — Towns, Castles, Farms, Rivers, Mountains — Birmingham — Leamington, Warwickshire — Going to Middlesborough— Hills and Dales— Purple Snow— Kind Cousins in an Iron City Visited by Ships— Parks, Etc.— Statues for Brains and Enterprising Wealth— Enroute to Edinburgh—Durham—The Cathedral — Powerful Newcastle

Twenty-five Thousand Men Making Great Guns, Ships, Chains, Engines and Cars— jubilee Exhibition— A Big Gun— Thousands of Modest Girls Serving— Off for Edinburgh.

IO IN LANDS BEYOND THE SEA.

Chapter XXIV

Health — Fine Weather — Kindness — Places Passed Through — Things Noted — Edinburgh — A Queenly City — Gospel Hymns in the Street — Arthur's Seat — Castle Hill — Calton Hill — A Slough Turned Into a Flowery Vale Full of Locomotives and Business — The Old Cannon-crowned Castle — Sir Walter Scott's Fine Monument — The Mound— Granite City — Spires, Monuments, Etc. — Holyrood Palace — Bird's-eye View — Bagpipes and Artillery — Plaided and Plumed Soldiers, Etc.

Chapter XXV

Ancient Banners Waved Over the Birth of Kings and Queens — Her Beauty and Glory — A Grand Ride — Tall Buildings on Ledges — High Street — Knox's House — The Old Castle — Five Hundred Feet Above the Sea — Soldiers in Red Coats and in Kilts, With Swords, Skean Uhus and Sporrans — A Great City Dressed in Gray Stone — Grass Market — St. Margaret's Chapel — Mon's Meg — Stone Cannon-balls — Crown Jewels — Queen Mary's Bedroom — A Cannon Roars at One O'Clock, Touched by Fingers Four Hundred Miles Long— What is Man? — Calton Hill — Nelson's Monument — Twelve Columns — Scotland's " Pride and Shame " — A Temple Deserted its Portico.

CHAPTER XXVI. Edinburgh and Dunfermline, Scotland 269

Edinburgh — Like Home — Sober People — Magnificent Squares — Oases in Chiseled Rock — Five Stories Cut in Granite — Giant Breaking from Glass Fetters — On the Way to Dunfermline — Steel Spanning Sea Waves — Through a Mountain by Inverkeithing — Scotland's Old Capital — Ruins — Electricity Flashes Greetings — Metalic Horses — Linen Factories — Wheels Thunder and Shuttles Flash — Thirteen Thousand Women — Kind Friends — Goods Pictured for Columbia— A Walk — Steel Columns Above Blue Hills — Andrew Carnegie — Princely Giver — Scotch Hospitality — Old Palace Ruins Interesting — Fine Old Church — Deceptive Pillars — Pictures in Glass — -Tombs of Kings — Curfew Rings Here — The Looms Battle — Working in Factories — Parents of Friends — Hospitality Makes Angels.

Chapter XXVII

Sea-waves Crouch Before Rulers of Kingdoms and Commerce — From Edinburgh to Dunfermline — South Queen's Ferry — Port Edgar — North Queen's Ferry — Towers of Granite and Steel Planted in Water — A Highway for the Passage of Fiery Chariots, Balanced on Circular Towers Forty Stories High — Machine Shops Suspended in Air — Thirty-one Men Killed — Four Thousand Men Riveting Forty-two Thousand Tons of Steel — Halcyon Days — The Sun Kisses the Water by a Ruined Castle — Pleasant Drive — The Lovers' Walk — Quiet, Quaint, Old Crossford — Kind Hearts — Walking Toward the Lights of Dunfermline

Chapter XXVIII

From Dunfermline to Sterling — Mountains Like Lions, Shining Like Velvet — Sterling — Going Up by Famous Objects to Rocks Marble-Decked and Castle-Crowned — Cannon Roar Between the Clouds and the Winding Forth — Bridge of Allan — Abbey Craig — A Plain Decked with Rocks, Rivers, Sheep, etc. — A Cemetery Clad in Marble, Granite, Glass and Roses — Old Churches — Relics of Kings, Queens and Knox — Scotland's Standards — Ben- Lomond — Water Looped in double S's in Meadows Five Hundred Feet Below — Soldiers — Highlanders — Singing Witch — Bannockburn — Curious Monument — On to Glasgow — Thirty-six Hundred Grouse — Winan's Deer Park — Six Hundred Thousand Busy People — A Chimney Breathes Four Hundred and Thirty-five Feet Above the Pavements — A Great Road Walled Eight Stories High — Great Buildings — Glasgow Names — St. Enoch's Roaring Station.

CHAPTER XXIX. Scotland : Greenock and Paisley 296

Greenock — Ships and Sugar — The Clyde — A Morning Walk — Mountain Peaks — Fairy Lands — Looking Down on Greenock — Scene Unsurpassed — Ajax — The Largest Ship — The Lyle Road — Esplanade — Highland Mary's Grave — Watt's Scientific Library — Telegraphy in 1753 — The Ship Yards — Paisley — Shawls and Thread — School Children — Thannhill — Wilson — Kilbarchan — Moving Toward Dumfries.

CHAPTER XXX. Scotland : Dumfries 303

By Train From Glasgow to Dumfries — Things Seen — History — Location — Churches — Walk with Mr. Sharp — Famous Names — Robert Burns : His Dwelling, His Ale House, His Statue, His Church, His Arm Chair, His Mausoleum, His Poetry, His Admirers — Clydesdale Horses — Old Churches — Bridge Six Hundred Years old — Fine Railway Station — Viaduct Over Railways, etc.

CHAPTER XXXI. From Scotland to Ireland 310

Leaving Dumfries — Riding over Mountains Among Lakes and Meadows — Mountains Decked with Purple Heather, White Granite and Sheep — Old Stranraer — Home-like Hotel — Leaving Stranraer — Loch Ryan — Ships, Sea-birds and Green Hills — Locomotives Rush Down to the Ships — The Irish Sea "Like a Lake" — Ships Like Spirits on Eternity's Ocean — Mrs. Scott Siddons — At Larne,. Ireland.

CHAPTER XXXII. In Ireland 316

Interesting Country — Velvet Meadows — Clear Lakes — Picturesque Mountains — Leaving Larne— Enroute to Giant's Causeway — Port Rush — Dr. Adam Clarke's Monument — The Jaunting Car — The Electric Car — The Mowing Machine on a Cliff — Dunluce Castle — Strange Images and Shapes — Ocean Waves Moaning in Caves — Dined Near the Great Freak of Nature.

CHAPTER XXXIII. Ireland: from Giant's Causeway to Dublin 322

Giant's Causeway — A Beautiful and Wonderful Freak of Nature — Forty Thousand Columns of Stone, Cut by Nature, on the Shore of the .Sea — " Black North " — Wave-cut Rocks — In a Cave — Walking Over Pentagon and Hexagon Columns — The Wishing Cliair — Finn McCue — Fingal's Cave — Famous Names — Going to Belfast — Fine City — Foggy Morning — Off for Dublin — Interesting Places Seen — The Round Towers — Arrive at Dublin.

Chapter XXXIV

Ireland's Chief City — Position, Commerce, Etc. — Population — The Buildings — Sackville Street — Fine Monuments — Grand Edifices. — Glasnevin Cemetery — Marble Crosses and Memorials in Colonnades — The Circular Vaults — O'Connell's Lofty, Round Monument — Phoenix Park — Carpet of Rainbows Spread by Artistic Gods — Wellington's Sublime Monument — The Corsican Corporal Heart-broken — Red Coats — Along the Quay — Beautiful Women — White Hair and Fresh, Pink Cheeks — Crowned With the Glow of an Indian Summer Sunset — Pies, Cakes, Creams, Coffees and Candies, on Sackville Street — Served by Ladies Incog. — Good Bye — " Good Bye."

CHAPTER XXXV. Dublin, and Voyage to Liverpool 339

Dublin — Poetry and Romance — Stephen's Green — The Old Singer — Wealthy Families Remodel Great Churches — Driving Timid, Saucy and Wild Droves from Fields Into Ships — On a Blanket Among Trunks — Darkness Sits on the Sea — Rude, Furloughed Soldiers Sing and Dance — Rocked on the Sea Far from Green Hills — Holly-head — Great Railway Station at Midnight — Cars Full of Drowsy Passengers — -Arrive at Liverpool — Finding My Friend's Hotel — Miles of Gloomy Buildings — Men Sleeping on Stone Beds — I Sleep on a Bench — The Busy Morning.

Chapter XXXVI

Fragments Collected — Coins of Two Nations — English People ; Reading, Dressing, Eating, Drinking, Manners — Cool — No Flies — Pleasures and Palaces — Only One America — Her Starry Banners Wave Benedictions in Distant Lands — Great Britain's Headquarters — Kingdom's Admired— Acknowledging the Stars and Stripes — London's Crowds; Advertisers, Workers and the Poor- House — Wedded to a Great City — Thirty Thousand Houses a Year — Dream Life — A Fire in Wheatley's Fourteen-acre Store — Seven Hundred Drowned, but not Missed— -Strange Sayings — Enterprising Barber — Prices of Various Things — Two Swift Monsters — England's Champion Horse — Died That Night — Dover's Fat Man.

CHAPTER XXXVIT.

North Burton and Scarborough, England 356

Green Country Village and a Splendid Watering Place — Wyoming Compared with Other Valleys — A Sunset of Glory Seen Through " Gates Ajar " — The Author's Father at North Burton — Meets Junius Brutus Booth — Marries — Traveling by Rail in Yorkshire — At Hunmanby — North Burton — The Pudseys — Father's Chair — The Gypsy — Unique Old Church — Smuggling — Good Land — Scarborough the Splendid — In Steam-carriages on the Cliffs — Colored Sails Flap on the "Purple Deep" — Chiseled Beauty Between Hills by the Sea — Castle — Soldiers in Tents — Hotels — Ships — Fish and Fisherfolk — Elegant Buildings — Flowers and Lakes Under Iron Bridges — Men, Women, Children and Horses on the Sea Sands — The Aquarium — Poverty Mimics Pride — Going Home — A Delightful Evening.

CHAPTER XXXVIII. Leamington, Warwick, Stratford, etc 368

Grand Warwickshire — Leamington — Gardens — Drives — Medicinal Waters — Warwick Castle — An old Glory Surrounded by Beauties of Nature and Art — Peacocks and Cedars of Lebanon — The Dungeon, Dark and Dreadful — Stratford-Upon-Avon — Shakespeare's Birthplace — The Room Where the Great Poet was Born — No fire Allowed — Stealing a Place to Write a Name — Relic Hunters — Shakespeare's Curse — A Delightful Ride on the Avon — Coventry — Old Churches With Tall Spires — St. Mary's Hall — Lady Godiva Rides Naked Through the City — "Peeping Tom" is now Blind Tom — Leaving Fair Leamington.

Chapter XXXIX

In England's Busy Sea-port — Going to the Ship — Miss Oliver — Thousands of People Sailing Out Into the Fog to Lands Beyond the Sea — Liverpool Fades Into Smoke and Fog — Sunset Smiles on the Sea — Moonlit Highway — Rockets Bursting Above the Waves — Weeping and Dancing — A Sunday Fair on a Great Ship — " Lovely Apples "

— Canes — Caps — Pipes — Bog Oak, etc. — Ireland Sinks Into the Sea — Sea Rough — The Snorer — The Winds Lift Up Dark Waves — Many 111 — Sea Grand — Alleghenies of Water — Chinaware Crashes and Lights go Out — Tossed in Bed — The Deck Like a Barn-roof — Not Afraid, but Satisfied — Comrades Recovering — Mr. G 111.

CHAPTER XL. From England to Wyoming Valley — Continued 386

Miss Oliver Wounded — Mr. G Preparing to be

Buried in the Sea — Took Hot Rum and Quinine — "Get Out" — Miss Oliver Worse — The Surgeon Assists — Steamers Racing Through White-Crested Billows — Officers Kind — The Magical Sea — Ships Like Butterflies on Crystal Vases — Singers Cheer Miss Oliver in Darkness — Sandy Hook — Anchor Chains Rattle — A Great City's Crystal Gate — Ships, Forts, Hills, Mansions, Monuments, Churches, Bridges — On the Wings of the Morning — The Sea's Births Like a Resurrection — Letters from Distant Kingdoms — Custom House — Rough and Dusty — Officials Seem Unfeeling — Take Away My Watch — Tell who I am — Watch Returned — Miss Oliver's Brother — Shake Hands Amid Tears, Good-byes and Partings.

CHAPTER XLI. From England to Wyoming Valley — Concluded 398

In New York City — Five Hundred Thousand People in Cars on Stilts — Crossing North River — The Giants race Through Autumn-Crowned New Jersey — Bright Mountains and Flaming Furnaces in Pennsylvania — Oh, the Sunset !— Gazing with the full Moon, down upon Wyoming Valley — Meet Friends on Warm Hearthstones — The Wounded Girl tells her own Story; Crosses wide States While Suffering, and finds Lover and Brother — Gets Married — Better but not Well — My Trip and its History Terminates — A Panorama of Great Glory, full of music, love and undying Beauty — Kind Reader, Adieu.

TESTIMONIALS.

From Rev. L. L. Sprague, D. D., Principal Wyoming Seminary : — C. D. Linskill, Esq. :

Dear Sir — I have read your letters from Europe with much interest and should like to see them published. If you decide to do so, please send me a volume for library Wyoming Seminary.

Kingston, Pa., Aug. iSth, 1888. L. L. SPRAGUE.

From Hon. L. D. Shoemaker : —

I have read some of your letters from Europe as they were published, and would be glad to have a copy of them all in book form.

Wilkes-Barre, Aug. 27th, '88. L. D. SHOEMAKER.

From Hon. Chas. A. Miner : — C. D. Linskill, Esq. :

Dear Sir — I read your letters from Europe, as they appeared in the Telephone, with much interest. They renewed to me my own visit of several years ago as I read descriptions of the scenes I had passed through. I would be more than pleased to see them in book form.