The American pastor in Europe

Front matter

THE

AMERICAN PASTOR

IN EUROPE.

Contents

FAGE

Dedication xxix

Preface xxxi

Chapter II. Matters And Things In Liverpool

Docks and shipping — Historical and architectural — The Rev. Thomas Raffles, D.D.— The Rev. Hugh McNeile, D.D.— Charitable institutions — Schools and societies — Libraries and museums — William Roscoe — Mr. Thackeray . . .9

Chapter III. A Week In London

Railway travel — Greatness of London — A morning mist — Our lodgings — Charges — Servants — The poor — Westminster Abbey — Gothic architecture — New Parliament buildings— British Museum — The Tower — Dr. Cumming— Mr. Spurgeon . . . 17 xxii CONTENTS.

CHAPTEK IV. page

BEGINNING THE CONTINENT.

Dinner at Dover — Crossing the Channel — Calais — Cologne— The Cathedral — Shrine of the Three Kings — Church of Saint Ursula — Dom Glocke — Other churches — Historical — Railway casualty— Serious mistake — Dresden — -Komanisrn and Royalty — Frauenkirche — English worship . . .30

Chapter V. En Route Eor Venice

Saxon Switzerland — Speaking German — Smoking and Smokers —Vienna — Baden — The Semmering — Valley of the Mur — Gratz— Cave of Adelsberg — The dreary Karst — Trieste — Across the Adriatic— Venetian fog 41

Chapter VI. The Queen Of The Adriatic

Origin of the city — The Duomo — The Campanile — Fine prospect — Piazza and Piazzetta — The Ducal Palace — The Library — The Dungeons — Churches — The Rialto — Artesian Wells— Adieu , . .49

Chapter VII. Milan And Its Marvels

Triumphal entry — The cathedral — The roof— The tower — Historical sketch of the city — St. Ambrose — San Carlo Borromeo 57

CHAPTER VHI.

TO THE ETERNAL CITY.

Beautiful Country — Another peep into the night-gowns — Novara — View of the Alps — Battle-fields— Alessandria- Crossing the Apennines — Genoa — English Chapel — Seeing the city — Christopher Columbus — The cathedral — A relic — Leghorn — Monte Nero — Italian names— Civita Vecchia — Gasperoni and the Pope — Tete-a-tete with a priest — * A friend in need ' — The diligence — Rome . . . .66 contents, xxiii

CHAPTEE IX. PAGE

FIRST DAYS IN ROME.

Seeking apartments — Settled, unsettled, and resettled — The Sabbath — Priestly despotism — A little leaven — Street spectacles — Blessings for beasts — Beggars — Panorama-lecture — The city of the Csesars — The city of the Popes . . .76

CHAPTER X.

VETTURA TO TERRACINA.

Troublesome Facchino — Across the Oampagna — Albano — La Riccia— Telle tri — Cisterna— Cora and Norma — A race for baiocchi — Pontine Marshes — Foro Appio — Forward again — Monte Cir cello— Terracina 87

CHAPTER XI.

WASHINGTON IRVING OUTDONE.

A wild story of the Alps — A tender story of Mount Anxur . 96

CHAPTER XII.

JOURNEY RESUMED AND FINISHED.

Wayside glimpses — Foncli — Itri — Cicero's tomb and Formian villa — Extensive prospect— Gaeta — Water-nymphs — Valley of the Liris — Sanf Agata — Sessa — Capua — Aversa — Naples — History— Population — Trade — Fortifications - . .114

CHAPTER XIII.

NAPOLI LA BELLA.

Environs — Villa Reale — Chiese de Partu — Poetry — A picture — Burying in churches — Grotta di Posilipo — Tomb of Virgil — The cathedral — Church of St. Paul — Other churches — Royal Palace — Capodimonte — The Camaldoli . . 126

CHAPTER XIV.

MOUNT VESUVIUS.

The ascent — The summit — Ancient condition — Grand eruption of a.d. 79 — Constant changes — Other eruptions — View from the top — Descent — Various impressions . . . .135

XXIV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XV. page

THE BURIED CITIES.

Museo Borbonico— Works of art — Domestic articles — Herculaneum — Tiie Theatre — ' New excavation ' — Pompeii — Temples — * Street of Abundance ' — Theatre — Miscellaneous objects— Via Appia — Villa of Diomede 146

CHAPTER XVI.

THE SORRENTINE PROMONTORY.

Nocera — La Cava — Beautiful Scenery — The convent — Charming drive — Amain — Its history — Beggars and begging — Wild night-scene — Monte Sant' Angelo — Courage, maccaroni, and cheese — Glorious prospect— Qastellaniare — Plan of Sorrento — The town and its antiquities — Poetic curiosity . . . 157

CHAPTER XVII.

A CLASSICAL EXCURSION.

Punta di Posilipo — Bagnoli — Nisicla — Pozzuoli — Monte Nuovo — Lago d'Averno — View from the cliff— Cumae — Baiae — Promontorium Misenum — The Solfatara — Lago d' Agnano — Grotta del Cane — Fuorigrotta— Frightful assault — Caserta — Capua — Adieu to Naples . . . . .. . .168

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE CRADLE AND THE THRONE OF ROME.

The Palatine and the Domus Aurea — Present appearance — The Capitol — Its destruction Its restoration — Temple of Jupiter — Its influence and utility — Present buildings — Forum Romanum — Julian Forum — Augustan Forum — Forum of Nerva— Forum of Trajan — Fora Venalia— Temple of Peace — Flavian Amphitheatre 178

CHAPTER XIX.

MISCELLANEOUS ANTIQUITIES.

Millearium Aureum— Via Appia — Other Roman roads — Cloacae - Aqueducts — Fountains — Thermae of Diocletian — Thermae of Titus — Thermae of Caracalla — Thermae of Agrippa, of Constantine, of Alexander Severus — Circus Maximus — Circus of Maxentius — Temple of Quirinus — Temple of the Sun — Porticoes 188

CONTENTS. XXV

CHAPTER XX. page

THE TIBER AND THE CAMPUS MARTIUS.

The fame of the Tiber — Its reputation vindicated — The Campus Martius — Its ruined structures — Mausoleum of Augustus — Mausoleum of Hadrian — Eoman architecture — Its characteristics — Its history — Borromini and his school — Reflections . 200

CHAPTER XXI.

HISTORIC NOTICES.

Rome under the emperors — Extent of the city — Estimate of population — Vice and luxury — Gothic devastation — Feuds of the nobles — Rome of the middle ages — Pillage by the imperial troops — Papal restorations and improvements — Sixtus the Fifth — Subsequent popes — French occupation under Napoleon — Pio Nono 213

CHAPTER XXII.

BASILICA VATICANUS.

View from a distance — View from the piazza — The interior — The roof— The dome— The ball . . . . . .227

CHAPTER XXIII.

ROMAN ECCLESIOLOGY.

Influence of Borromini upon the style of sacred architecture — Church of St. Clement — San Pietro in Vincoli — San Martino e San Sylvestro — Santa Cecilia in Trastevera — San Pietro in Montorio— Santa Maria in Trastevera — San Lorenzo — II Gesu — Ara Coeli — Santa Maria Maggiora — San Giovanni in Laterano— San Paolo Fuori la Mura — Sant' Onofrio — Santa Maria ad Martyres — San Stephano Rotondo .... 236

CHAPTER XXIV.

PALACES AND VILLAS.

Roman palaces — Palazzo Doria — Palazzo Ruspoli- Palazzo Corsini— Palazzo Barbarini — Palazzo Borghese — Palazzo Farnese — Palazzo Colonna — Palazzo Spada— Palazzo Pontificio— Palazzo Vaticano— Suburban villas— Villa Farnese — Villa Negroni— Villa Pamfilidoria— Villa Madama — Villa Borghese — Similarity of these villas 248

XXVI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXV. page

ANTEMNE AND FIDENE.

Solitary ramble on the Campagna — Interesting view — Fierce dogs — A ruin — Walk to Antemne — Charcoal sketch — A soldier artist— Site of the city — Great battle-ground — Ponte Salaro — Scene of Nero's suicide — Necropolis and citadel of Fidene — Historical sketch 257

CHAPTER XXVI.

Historical sketch — Our visit — The Campagna — Isola Farnese — Antonio Valeri — Tarpeian Rock — Utter desolation — Ponto Sodo — Necropolis — Painted tomb — Forum of Roman Municipium — Columbaria — Second and third visits — Additional discoveries — Serpents — Piazza d'Armi — Temple of Juno — La Scaletta — Grotta Campana — Return to Rome . . 266

CHAPTER XXVII.

TRIP TO TIVOLI.

Basilica of San Lorenzo — Wayside glimpses — The Solfatara — Tomb of Plautius — Villa of Adrian — Ancient Tiber — Modern Tivoli — Temples of Vesta and the Sibyl— Roman villas — Pleasant prospects — An Italian tempest — Return to Rome . 283

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE ALBAN MOUNT.

Strada Ferrata to Frascati — Antonio — Villa Rufinella — Tusculum — Cicero's Villa — The Alban Lake — Alba Longa — Emisario — Ruins of Roman villas — Castel Gondolpho — La Riccia — II Rosignuolo — Lanuvium — A priest at play — Nemi — Floating palace — Monte Cavo — Return to Rome . . 290

CHAPTER XXIX.

LA CHIESA DEL GESU.

Excursion — Churches of Sant' Agnesia and Santa Constantia — Mons Sacer — Catacombs of Sant' Alessandro — Tombs and Columbaria — Church of Domine Quo Vadis — Catacombs of

CONTENTS. XXV11

CHAPTEK XXIX.— continued. page

San Calistro and San Sebastiano — Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella — Miscellaneous perambulations — La Chiesa del Gesu — The music — The sermon — The collection — The illumination — The effect — Disinterested benevolence — Kemarks on preaching — Release from purgatory — Koine is finished . 303

CHAPTEK XXX.

FROM ROME TO FLORENCE.

Last view of St. Peter's — Monte Socrate — Civita Castellana — Camillus and the Schoolmaster — The Umbrian Hills — Ocricoli — Kami — Terni and its Falls — Short method with beggars — Spoletto — The Clitumnus — Foligno — Spello — Santa Maria degli Angeli — Assisi — Saint Francis and his Order — Grotta dei volumni — The Etruscans — Perugia — Battle of Thrasymenus — The Papal frontier — Brigands . . . 317

CHAPTEK XXXI.

THE CITY OF FLOWERS.

The beauty of Florence — Comparison with Kome — Cathedral and Campanile — Other interesting objects and localities — Poetry — Hiram Power — Fine arts — Rape of the Sabines — Uffizi gallery — Michael Angelo — Pitti palace — The Flying Ass — Agricultural fair — Blasphemy of art . . . 330

CHAPTER XXXII.

HURRYGRAPHIC MISCELLANEA.

Environs of Florence — Pisa — Grand illumination — Past and present — Leghorn — Pratolina — Summit of the Apennines — Covigliajo — Miniature volcano — Poveri Infelice — Harvest wages — Mountain Scenery — Bologna — Ferrara — Padua — Venice again — The Peter Martyr — Fine churches — Solemn stillness of the city — Across Lombardy — The picturesque — Farewell to Italy— The Alps— The Tete Noire— Magnificent Iris — From Mont Blanc to London .... 339

XXV111 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXIII. page

METROPOLITAN TEA-PARTIES.

Forty-ninth cousin — Illustrious ancestry — Laying of a foundation-stone — Tea-party number one — Tea-party number two — Tea-party number three — Tea-party number four — Tea-party number five — Tea-party number six — Tea-party number seven — Tea-party number eight — Anecdote of Mr. Spurgeon 350

CHAPTER XXXIV.

PULPIT CELEBRITIES.

Croly — Melvill — Hamilton — Sketch of the late Edward Irving — Critical estimate of * the modern Whitfield ' 366

CHAPTER XXXV.

PLEASANT VARIETIES.

The Browns — Richmond Hill — Thomson — Bushy Park — Hampton Court — Cardinal Wolsey — Royal residents — Varieties — Great Western Railway — Official dignity — Clevedon — Myrtle Cottage — Promenade and prospect — Clevedon Court — Wrington — Weston-super-Mare — Interesting antiquities . 382

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Tender recollections — Uphill — The old church — Ancient fortifications — The Steep Holmes — A legend — The Flat Holmes — Bleadon — Hobbs's boat — Lympsham church and rectory — Brent Knoll — Delightful view — Burnham and the rest 396

CHAPTER XXXVII.

HEART-RECORDS.

Home of my childhood — Interesting colloquy — Across the daisy-fields to Lympsham — The Wesleyan chapel — Another colloquy — The parish church — The churchyard and its occupants — An old friend — East Brent church — South Brent church — An evening scene — The Burnham Bells — ' Hail, Columbia!' .407

Dedication

To ROBERT CROSS, M.D.

My dear Cousin : To whom may I dedicate this fragmentary record of an eminently happy year, with so much propriety as to you and yours, whose generous courtesies contributed so largely to its happiness ?

The manner in which you received me when I first came to London ; the warmth with which you afterwards welcomed my return from the Continent ; the unwearied kindness with which you sought to promote my comfort while among you ; the many advantages which I derived from your extensive acquaintance, distinguished social position, and honourable connection with the great movements of metropolitan philanthropy ; the interesting places, eminent personages, and noble Christian charities, for my knowledge of which I am indebted chiefly to your friendly offices and the influence of your name : — gave me a new estimate of English hospitality, improved my opinion of English Christianity, threw a new charm over the land of my birth and my boyhood, and rendered my sojourn in London more delightful even than my rambles amid the venerable ruins of Rome and the classic scenes of Southern Italy.

Chapter I. Incidents Of The Voyage

A Storm — The Persia — The Passengers — A Wreck — A Fog- Worship— " The Cerrrcle' — Sunrise — Anchorage— An Attack of Bacchus— An Arrest— A Fatal Accident — A Warning to Smokers— Warm Keception on Shore.

To break the dull monotony

Of an Atlantic trip, Sometimes, alas ! we ship a sea,

And sometimes see a ship.

Francis Osgood.

It was past midday, on the 6th of December, 1856, when we took tender leave of our friends in Charleston, and stepped on board the steamship Nashville, as happy and hopeful a triad as ever embarked for a voyage. The wind blew rough and cold from the north-east, and dull leaden clouds hung* over the sea, prophetic of a stormy passage- And well did Boreas redeem his pledge. Seldom I imagine, without actual shipwreck, have three seafarers suffered more in three days than we. But amidst it all, hope hung the heavens with rainbows, and every billow blossomed as it broke. Sallie heard Mozart's Zauber-Flote in the wailing of the winds, and steeped her soul in seas of German melody. Jennie saw Raffaelle's Transfiguration of the Redeemer, or Domenichino's Communion of Saint Jerome, in every cloud that sailed across the sky ; and Venuses, and Apollos, and Mercurys, and Jupiters constantly springing from the surf. As for the scribe, while he lay in the slumberous delirium of the mat de mer, or looked out from his little window upon the seething floods, every surge became a Brent-Knoll, and every sound of the waters brought the sweet murmur of Burnham Beach, and the wind that so fiercely contested our progress seemed odorous with the breath of cowslips from Lympsham, and primroses from Bleadon, and wallflowers from his grandmother's garden.

On the morning of the 9th we are in New York, early enough to secure good state-rooms in the Persia, and enjoy an evening with Bishop Janes and his family, and some hours with sundry other friends of former years; and at six the next evening, under a fair breeze and a full moon, with a sea as calm as the Cayuga, we stand bravely out to the broad Atlantic. How majestically beautiful is this floating palace, three hundred and ninety feet long, and built in four compartments, any one of which is deemed sufficient to keep her afloat if the others should fill with water ! On the deck, at the table, in the state-rooms, how admirable is the order observed; inspiring in the passengers a delightful confidence of security, and giving an attractiveness even to the sea ! Her population, exclusive of officers, sailors, and servants, is a hundred and' seventy souls, chiefly English, Irish, and Scotch, a few French and German, with a sprinkling of New England salt. There is a Roman Catholic bishop on board — quite plethoric enough for the profession — a talkative, intelligent, and altogether agreeable man ; with his brother, a well-informed gentleman, but rather too frank for a Jesuit, who eight or ten years ago accompanied the enterprising prelate on his ' American mission/ in the character of a priest, ' rather by way of frolic than otherwise,' and appears to have kept up his clerical fun ever since. We have also Mr. Osgood, the American artist, in our company ; a man of genial mood and various knowledge, with a history which ought to be written; attended by his wife, an amiable lady, who has enjoyed the advantages of extensive travel. Opposite us at the table sit three British officers from Canada, one of them a son of the Lord Primate of Ireland, two of them well freighted with incidents of the Crimean campaign, and all of them overflowing with genuine Irish wit. A lady who has evidently seen something of the world, and is now returning to her home in the land of potatoes and

INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE. d

of hearts, affords us much amusement with the accounts she gives us of her countrymen, whom she very seriously pronounces ' the most generous,, the most eloquent, and the most deceitfal people in the world.' Last, though not least, if you may judge from the attention shown him, especially by officers and stewards of the ship, here is Toai Thumb, alias Charles Stratton, nearly twenty years old, but less than three feet high, and as diminutive in intellect as in stature, with his mother, brother-in-law, and a fiscal agent, on his way to England, where he is to spend the next two years in exhibiting his insignificance.

Few were the incidents of our voyage. Some of us, chiefly the ladies, were pretty well occupied, especially when the weather was a little rough, with their own personal matters ; and with the rest, conversation and reading made the time pass pleasantly. On the evening of the third day out we passed the hull of a large schooner, dismasted and apparently abandoned by her crew ; but did not pause, I know not why, to investigate her condition. On the banks of Newfoundland, as generally happens, we were enveloped in a dense fog, through which a sail could not possibly have been seen a hundred yards ; yet the Persia never slackened ,her speed, but two men with tin horns at the bows blew perpetual warning to whatever might chance to be in our way, and every fifth minute the great steam-whistle sent terrific cautions over the deep.

The Sabbath dawned. "Worship, according to the ritual of Her Majesty's church, was performed on board Her Majesty's steamships. But in this instance, where is the clergyman ? There is none, and the captain must officiate. All hands are summoned, by the tolling of the bell, to the long dining-saloon. Most of the passengers are present, and as many of the sailors and stewards, I suppose, as can be spared from duty, making in all about three hundred persons. The bishop and the frolicking priest are not of the company, though evidently they ought, in all consistency, to recognize the principle which ignores the clerical character of the present scribe. We are all furnished with prayer-books, and the service is solemnly read, and the responses are general and hearty. In the midst of the prayers, the lay-parson very properly interpolates the petition of the Protestant Episcopal Church for ' the President of the United States, and all others in authority.' Then follows a sermon from Dr. Blair : ' Boast not thyself of to-morrow, for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth.' Very appropriate, certainly ; but no one can deny that Captain Judkins prays better than he preaches ; and I flatter myself, all ungowned as I am, I might have read that sermon quite as well myself. A very serious thought it is, that never in this world shall we all worship together again ; and most sincerely is the prayer breathed, at least by some of the worshippers, that we may all hereafter meet in heaven.

Travellers on shipboard have often to pay for their inexperience. One day I went to the bow, and stood looking out over the sea. When I turned around, a sailor stood at my side, with a wrinkle of ineffable mischief in his face. 1 D'ye see, Serrr,' said he, pointing to a chalk line which he had drawn around me upon the deck, ' I've put ye in the cerrrcle !' ' Oh no,' I replied, * that is not a circle— only a semicircle.' ' Faith,' rejoined he, ' and sure it isn't the likes of yer honour that'll be getting off in that way : I thought yer honour wouldn't mind giving a pore fellow the price of a terrrkey for Christmas.' ' And what is the price of a turkey ?' I demanded. ' Oh, the matther of a dollar in Leverpole, or a dollar and a quarther for a fat one.' I handed him fifty cents. ' Indade, yer honour,' said he, with something akin to a sigh, < and ye wouldn't be afther putting us off with half a dollar : it isn't like yer counthry entirely.' < But I fear you will spend that for whiskey,' I answered. ' I'm sure I never dhrinks a dhrop, yer honour, nor haven't for these seven years agone; and besides, I've got a wife and fower children in Corrrk.' For his eloquence, more than his wit, I duplicated the fifty cents ; and enjoyed the giving quite as much, I doubt not, as he the receiving.

It was the last morning of our voyage. A calmer sea, and a clearer sky, could not well be imagined. We were gliding along the coast of the Emerald Isle. With one of the young officers aforesaid, I went on deck to look at the fragments of an ancient castle. At the same moment the sun on the opposite side began to emerge from the watery

INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE. 5

horizon, clothed with so soft a radiance that the eye could gaze steadily upon him without pain. When about one-third of his form became visible, a ship under full sail, but so distant as to appear only a minute speck, passed slowly across his disc. Till it entered the edge of the sun, it was invisible ; and as soon as its little transit was accomplished, became invisible again — an emblem of many things, chiefly of human life.

During the following night we took a pilot, and before morning dropped anchor in the Mersey ; having been just nine days and two hours, allowing for difference of time, between New York and Liverpool. What would have been thought of this fifty years ago ? When I first crossed the ocean, in 1825, we were nearly six weeks from Bristol to Quebec, and it was not regarded as a very tedious voyage. Verily r a little more speed, with the addition of the Sub- Atlantic Telegraph, would almost practically realize the Apocalyptic prophecy, ' There shall be no more sea ;' and whoever has experienced the horrors of sea-sickness, or seen those whom he loves writhing in the exquisite indifference of that detestable epidemic of the deep, will surely say, i Amen.'

Two of our fellow-passengers had evidently suffered, during the night, a violent attack from Bacchus, for they were still reeling from the effect of his blows. One of them was a son of the Green Isle ; and our female friend, his shrewd countrywoman, satisfactorily accounted for his condition, by assuring us, as Miss Edgeworth had done before, that ' drunkenness is the natural state of the Irish.' Another, who was slightly convalescent, appeared drooping and melancholy. I inquired after the cause. One of the company replied : ' That gentleman sat up all night watching for the pilot.' ' And did he see him ?' said I. ' Oh yes,' answered my informant, ' he saw two.' This was a countryman of ours.

Before we went ashore, an officer, who had been sent for by the captain, came on board, and arrested one of our fellow-passengers as a swindler. He had embarked at New York without paying his fare ; and when discovered, three days afterwards, had but one and sixpence in his pocket. He called himself Baron somebody, and professed to have been an attache of the Prussian Legation at Washington ; but as he could give no satisfactory account of his condition, he was sent forward to the second cabin. His manner was very peculiar, and some suspected his mental sanity, while others thought he must be labouring under some great sorrow, with which a stranger might not intermeddle. The captain, however, seemed to be of a different opinion ; and as the poor man had neither friends nor money, he was sent to prison, and I never learned the sequel.

Another case was still more melancholy. The second officer of the ship, soon after we came to anchor, received an accidental blow ; and on Monday they bore him to his grave. He was a handsome young man, noble-spirited, and full of genial soul. I had often admired his fine open countenance during the voyage, and had a pleasant chat with him the night before the accident, in which he spoke freely of his plans for the future, and dwelt with manifest pleasure upon his prospect of success ; but a sudden blight fell upon his blooming hopes, and his sun went down at noon ; and how forcibly returned to me the text to which we had listened a few days before ! ' Boast not thyself of to-morrow, for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth.'

Of course we could not land till our baggage had passed the scrutiny of the custom-house officials. These worthy functionaries, however, were early at their posts, and fully sustained their reputation. Oh, the pity ! to see piles of manufactured tobacco, and parcels of fragrant cigars, brought forth from their concealment among soiled linen and New York Heralds, ruthlessly turned out upon the deck, and remorselessly taxed from ten to twenty shillings per pound ! Verily it was almost enough to make one subscribe to the long-exploded maxim, 4 Honesty is the best policy.' And then, the unprofitable rage of some of the innocent proprietors, who of course never thought of violating or evading the law, though they had ten times the quantity of tobacco and cigars that the law allows free of duty ; and the silent shame with which others of them opened their unwilling wallets, and gathered up their costly luxuries — ah, was it not 'a caution!' Sensible

INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE, 7

reader, haclst thou been there, thou wouldst have forsworn Havanas for ever!

But tell me, ye travelled sages, why are these inquisitors of contraband wares so particular in the examination of ladies' apparel ? Does the fact imply a tacit imputation upon the honesty of the sex ? It was so here ; it was so everywhere upon the continent. Frequently when my baggage passed unopened, that of my fair travelling companions was quite narrowly scrutinised. In the present instance, however, we came off much better than some of the rest. Whether it was because I waited patiently till they were weary of their cruel work, or because our trunks had a look of honest leanness, and ourselves no odour of the Indian weed ; for some reason or another, these faithful servants of Her Majesty gave us very little trouble, opening only one of our three pieces, and peeping into the folds of the first robe de chambre they discovered.

Before ten the ordeal was over, a passport pasted on every box and parcel, and we prepared to set foot upon Her Majesty's soil. But the excitement of the morning, in addition to her recent sea-sickness, had proved too much for poor Sallie's nervous system, and she was found in violent spasms upon her state-room floor. This accident delayed our landing an hour or two ; but when at length we landed, most marvellous were the courtesies which we received. Monsieur la Grenouille is generally reputed the politest specimen of the genus homo ; but if this was a true exhibition of the character of John Bull, his neighbour across the Channel must certainly yield him the palm. No sooner had our sole-leather touched the wharf, than each of us was assailed by at least a dozen persons, men and boys ; every one of whom s eemed ready, from excess of kindness, to tear us to pieces, or swallow us alive. Such pushing and pulling, such thrusting and thumping, I certainly never saw in my life ; with all sorts of menacing and reviling ; with noises articulate and noises inarticulate ; but no bowie-knives, nor shillelahs. Taking Sallie by the two arms, we ran the gauntlet for about two hundred yards, and took refuge in the first carriage we came to ; but before we had time to recover breath for mutual congratulation on our fortunate escape, a dozen heads were thrust in at the windows, vociferously demanding pay for procuring hacks, and carrying trunks, and all sorts of services which we had not received. Jehu saved us by driving suddenly away, and left the clamorous throng gazing, and running, and shouting after us ; but for which merciful incivility of Jehu, there is no telling what might have been our fate. Somehow, as by whirlwind — I never did understand the precise manner — we soon reached the Adelphi, where we found ourselves in comfortable quarters, and where we remained forty-eight hours, and had all our wants supplied, for the moderate sum of 51. lis. 6cl. I

Chapter II. Matters And Things In Liverpool

Docks and Shipping — Historical and Architectural— The Eev. Thomas Baffles, D.D.— The Eev. Hugh McNeile,D.D.— Charitable

Institutions — Schools and Societies— Libraries and Museums — • William Boscoe— Mr. Thackeray.

His words had such a melting flow.

And spoke the truth so sweetly well, They dropped like heaven's serenest snow,