Aftermath

Front matter

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

CITY AND COUNTRY, BERG AND THAI.

Preface

Althoqgh more than one half of the time occupied in my summer tour was passed upon shipboard, in London, Paris, Rome, Dresden, and Berlin, for reasons satisfactory to myself I have ignored those two months, and have prepared a record of some weeks of travel in places of really minor importance.

I am well aware that it is impossible to disarm criticism, even if one desired so to do ; therefore that is not my object in writing this little introductory. But I wish to say briefly as possible that during a four-months' absence from home, every hour as far as practicable was filled with patient and painstaking sight-seeing ; and that I found something novel or interesting in the experience of each day. Without attempting to exhaust the sights of any place, I have designed to speak of the particular scenes and objects most enjoyed by myself, without reference to those which another might more highly appreciate ; and also allude to such historical associations as appealed the most strongly to my individual feelings.

I know that one may bring back from Europe a burdensome amount called information, in regard to museums and galleries ; in this regard, I have endeavored not to be tiresome. While making no pretensions to being a connoisseur, I have maintained the right to individual preference, in mentioning any objects of art. Looking forward with earnest longing for the hour when I might visit some of the celebrated collections of the Old World, I was yet determined not to lose sight of the many other experiences which make or mar the happiness of the traveller.

The daily jottings which filled my memorandum have been the hints suggesting the different articles I have prepared.

Earnest in my endeavors to strictly regard historical truth, to be honest in the recital of personal experience, wishing " to nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice," I heartily present this record of days of pleasurable toil, which brought rich returns in memories of priceless value.

Heeding the title of my little book, you will not expect too much of one who, gleaning in well-trodden paths, in all sincerity says : —

•' And what is writ, is writ ; Would it were worthier I "

(3) ^•^•^-

NOTE.

[The following letter explains itself. — W. B. S. & Co., Publishers.]

Dear Siis. — Glancing over the Century ior May, last evening, I was dismayed on seeing among the advertised lists of Longfellow's works, a book entitled Aftermath.

Although circumstantial evidence is strong that I am guilty of literary piracy, I plead innocent to the charge.

I supposed that I had secured a unique title, not dreaming that any book of that name existed. The very boldness of the suggested theft, the presumption of plagiarizing anything from Longfellow at this present time, ought to be convincing proof of my innocence, and alas ! my ignorance.

In my volume of his miscellaneous poems are the two stanzas called Aftermath, from which I quoted for my title-page.

It has occurred to me that possibly some of his minor poems have been collected under that head; at present, I have no means of ascertaining.

The question is, What can be done about it ? I have no desire to sail under false colors, and yet fully realize the difificulties in the way of making any change at this late day.

Would it be possible to explain that this book was in press before the writer saw the list of Longfellow's works .''

Sincerely yours,

B. M. BUCKHOUT

Contents

I. Paris to Brussels 7

II. Antwerp i6

III. Holland 23

I. Paris To Brussels

" To-morrow to fresh fields and pastures new."

Reluctantly I turned away from the city which ever wins with its loveliness, fascinates with its glare and glamour, yet wearies with its mad whirl, to seek new scenes of interest ; which, if less replete with associations, may yet possess some characteristic features of which the hasty and necessarily superficial observer may venture to speak.

The ride to Brussels occupied six hours. The change from the sights and sounds of the thronged streets of cities to speeding through a highly cultivated and pleasantly undulating country possessed a delightful charm. Customs examination at Quevy was a necessary formality, but as it was not critical, the trifling delay was only one of the minor incidents of the day ; another was the purchase of a lunch at Tergnier, a never-to-be-forgotten lunch, worthy of note, although not reaching the accepted standard in a land supposed to excel in appetizing viands. The most novel sight of the day to me was the extensive bleaching grounds, near some of the towns where linen factories abound, and where much of the land of the environs is appropriated to the cultivation of flax ; that raised in Southern Belgium having a particularly fine reputation.

" Still on the green flats, fair to view, The fields of flax are abloom with blue j And still on the soft sward's level reach The damsels spread their webs to bleach."

An early evening hour found us in commodious quarters in an old-fashioned but thoroughly comfortable hotel. The clerk, or portiere, was an Englishwoman, that being a position frequently occupied by women throughout Europe.

A half-day was passed in a general observation of the city, and as one and all were surfeited with churches, museums, and picture galleries, it was unanimously resolved that while in Brussels we would ignore all such sights ; therefore, whatever of golden opportunity was lost by that decision will be cheerfully recorded upon the list of ''what might have been," as we thereby gained more time for a survey of the old Belgian capital.

It seemed to possess many of the characteristics of a French city ; and in fact, the citizens are proud of the name so often given it, the second Paris, — though they claim that only the desirable features of the gayest of capitals are retained. The lower class speak the Flemish language, while the nobility and middle class use French entirely, and the traveller would be obliged to go aside from general places visited in order to hear the national tongue.

PARIS TO BRUSSELS. 9

The line of fortifications which formerly surrounded the city in the form of a pentagon have been converted into handsome boulevards, where many of the finest buildings are situated. The upper part of the city has broad paved streets ; one, the Rue Royale, being especially attractive with its elegant business blocks : one portion fronts upon a small, pleasant park, an admirable adjunct to the stately buildings which surround it. Both the royal and ducal palaces are situated upon this park, which also possesses an historical interest, as the scene of the conflict between the Belgian insurgents and the government of the United Provinces.

A large portion of the city has been completely modernized ; but the Hotel de Ville and the ancient guild houses yet remain to testify to its former glory. These front upon the Grande Place, which is said to be one of the finest mediaeval squares in existence ; and it has also been the scene of the most memorable acts in the annals of Belgium. It was here that, among many others, the Counts Egmont and Horn were executed (unjustly, as history records) by order of the Duke of Alva. Near by is their memorial in bronze, which represents them on their way to execution.

The guild houses, built during the Middle Ages, have a very quaint, though imposing appearance. These guilds were organizations of citizens, according to the various trades in which they were engaged : there were the butchers, carpenters, masons, mariners, and others ; each having a house adorned with an appropriate emblem conspicuously placed ; as for instance, the Mariners' Hall has the gable constructed like the stern of a ship, with four protruding cannon.

Among the imposing edifices in the lower part of the city, the new Exchange may be regarded as particularly worthy of note. As a building representing the commercial centre of a thriving metropolis, in its large dimensions and rich ornamentation it is not to be ignored. The principal fagade has a Corinthian colonnade, which is reached by a handsome flight of steps ; on either side is a fine allegorical group, while the pediment contains a magnificent relief, representing Belgium, attended by Commerce and Industry. Above the cornice is a finish of small Ionic columns, which, with the groups of pillars and numerous pieces of sculpture, adds materially to the effect.

Many of the houses seemed to be finished in stucco, and nearly all were white. It was not uncommon to see carving or sculpture over the door or between the windows of the dwelling. Usually the design was of a religious character; the figure of the Madonna being most frequently observed.

In all the public squares, and occasionally upon the street corners, are groups or statues of bronze or marble. Some of these have attained a celebrity which is not due either to chasteness of design or superiority of workmanship.

There are many handsome monuments ; two especially attractive, being the elegant memorial called the "Martyrs' Monument," and the one erected to commemorate the present constitutional existence of Belgium. But of all, the one which most impressed me was that of the hero of the first Crusade. The equestrian statue of Godfrey de Bouillon stands upon the

PARIS TO BRUSSELS. II

very spot where he stood eight hundred years ago to urge upon the Flemings the cause so dear to his own heart ; his eloquent words, in that hour of enthusiastic devotion, winning many new recruits to enlist under the banner of the Cross.

Not far from the H6tel de Ville, the house is pointed out within whose walls "fair women and brave men" were gathered on the occasion of the ball given by the Duchess of Richmond, upon that fateful night in July, 1815.

But Brussels is, in reality, only the stepping-stone to Waterloo ; therefore an early afternoon hour found us at the Station du Midi, ticketed for Braine I'Alleud, a village nine miles from Brussels, and two from the famous battle-field. During the brief ride we shared a compartment with a sweet-faced Sister of Charity, and a young girl, evidently a scholar. The route took us through a pleasant country, the railway running into many deep cuts and through a number of short tunnels.

Reaching the station mentioned, possibly a half-score left the cars, whose destination was the same as our own. Conveyances were in waiting, and all went together over high roads and by-roads in a nondescript vehicle, possessing some of the peculiarities of both hay-cart and band wagon. Houses were frequent along the road, which was very narrow, and the fields of grain grew close to its edge, without the protection of a fence of any description. We were followed the entire distance by racing, panting children; the numbers being constantly re-enforced from the wayside houses, as the first weakened in the chase. All held up to our view flowers freshly gathered from the field once covered with the dead and dying. The bouquets were in themselves of little worth; but "because of their importunity," the sturdy beggars often received the coveted penny, and the faded flowers exchanged hands.

The Mound of the Lion is a conspicuous landmark, as the ground was levelled in all directions to furnish material for this grand Belgian monument. Upon this earth pedestal, two hundred feet high, stands a lion, at that distance appearing of ordinary size, though in reality his proportions are colossal. This immense creature weighs thirty tons, and was cast from the metal of the captured French cannon. From the platform where the lion stands, an uninterrupted view is obtained of the extensive plain ; but as no traces of the renowned struggle remain, in lieu of ascending the three hundred steps leading to the summit, I reserved my strength for sight-seeing that I was better able to appreciate. Upon the lowered portion of the ground are two monuments ; one to the memory of the Hanoverian guards, the other a pillar inscribed to Col. Gordon. I hope everybody knows all about the fame, as well as the rank and name of this gallant gentleman, as assuredly I do not.

La Haye Sainte, or the cottage of that name, is still an object of interest ; standing with its iron-barred windows, as on that memorable day when it was so bravely held by the soldiers of the German legion. It has but one story, with high roof, and two rows of dormer-windows.

We stopped at the Hotel de Musee, which, as its name might suggest, is more museum' than hotel. Here was

PARIS TO BRUSSELS. 13

an opportunity for purchasing relics of the battle ; but without satisfactory evidence of their genuineness, a button, bullet, or even a rusty bayonet would possess but slight value. Photographs were gladly purchased from the old lady in charge, "niece of the late Sergeant-Major Cotton," as she repeatedly introduced herself. Her conversational powers were marvellous, and the most extraordinary statements were delivered with a volubility as pronounced as that of "the original and only Mrs. Jarley."

Standing upon a spot of such world-wide fame, I was somewhat surprised at not feeling the degree of sentiment expected. But it requires a great stretch of the imagination to reconcile the present scene with the ideal which has come down to us with all the stirring associations connected with war. Strife and bloodshed seemed far removed from that peaceful scene : a landscape dotted with quiet homes and cultivated farms, whose fertile fields, rich with luxuriant crops, brought to mind the thought fully expressed in the line : —

" How that red rain hath made the harvest grow ! "

With SO little remaining to tell of the memorable struggle, it is difficult to realize the slaughter of the day, as its records are given in history. It is only in retrospect that the blooming fields stand out vividly as —

" The grave of France, the deadly Waterloo."

We returned to our hotel in time to avoid a heavy rain, and also in season to participate in that most enjoyable of repasts, table d'hote, with its eleven courses of unsatisfactory nothings ; after which, with waterproofs and umbrellas, we went out upon the street, as time was quite too valuable to be idled away on account of any ordinary storm.

We visited the business part of the city, with particular reference to seeing the shops where lace was a specialty. Although these stores were usually very small, undoubtedly many of them were owned by large lace manufacturers, as an exceedingly limited space would suffice for a valuable amount of the delicate fabric. Of late years, owing to improvements in manufacturing, Brussels lace is much less expensive ; that is, the variety called point ct V aiguille, which is made with a needle, the woven leaves and flowers being sewn upon the Brussels net like applique. It is estimated that 130,000 women are employed in this industry in Belgium. In the old and genuine Brussels lace, where countless threads, wound upon bobbins, must be twisted over a network of pins, forming an elaborate pattern, it is necesary to commence to learn in early childhood in order to acquire any degree of dexterity in manipulating the numerous threads which make up the intricate design, I think that a knowledge of the tedious process, and the: length of time required for every yard, would prevent us from murmuring at the seemingly high prices demanded for the dainty webs which all ladies so highly prize. I have no means of ascertaining what proportion of my countrywomen are strong enough to gaze untempted upon the enticing displays of the fairy-like productions of Brussels; but I imagine that many gladly become the possessors of

PARIS TO BRUSSELS. 1$

some quantity of these rare combinations of delicacy and strength. Lace can be bought there at about one third the amount required at home, the patterns and quahty being unrivalled. This estimate does not include the duty which all patriotic American citizens so cheerfully pay upon all imported goods.

Upon several of the principal streets are long covered galleries, which were brilliantly lighted and filled with a variety of goods tastefully displayed. These arcades form very attractive promenades during the evening, and are thoroughly patronized at any hour during damp or rainy weather.

We spent Sunday in Brussels, and like all good Americans went to church ; it was called the English Church, and no one could doubt the accuracy of the naming after a glance at the congregation. The morning service was intoned in a sing-song, monotonous way, more soporific than devotional in its effect. Later in the day, a drive seemed essential to counteract the weariness of the morning; but not to shock too severely the orthodoxy of home friends, I will add, that as our cocker v^-Si^ either unwilling or unable to induce his steed to vary from a rate of speed one remove from a walk, — the funereal pace was not conducive to undue hilarity. The very leisurely manner in which we drove along the handsome boulevards and through the pleasant park — once a portion of the forest of Soignes — was not out of harmony with a strict observance of the Sabbath, although it afforded an opportunity for a parting glance at the Belgian capital.

i6

AFTERMA TH.

II. ANTWERP, " Rich with the spoils of time."

Antwerp, seen in the early morning hours, had an appearance of quiet stateliness, with its broad, handsome streets, large squares, and substantial buildings of curious architecture, which are all characteristic of the city, which once boasted a wonderful commerce, and is still rich and proud.

Notwithstanding Antwerp has lost its prestige of five centuries ago, when it was considered the most wealthy and prosperous city on the Continent, it is yet a marvel of enterprise and activity when its vicissitudes are taken into account. When Venice, Nuremberg, and other cities of mediceval renown were sinking rapidly into decay, Antwerp attained the height of its prosperity, and with each passing year grew more worthy of the name given for a century before its downfall, " Dives Antwerpia."

Of the succession of reverses which resulted so disastrously for Antwerp, it is only necessary to allude to two or three. First was the violent outbreak of the Iconoclasts in 1566, when the city was the scene of mad confusion, riot, and bloodshed ; suffering perhaps more severely than any other of the towns visited in that and adjacent provinces. Ten years later, it was pil-

ANTWERP. ly

laged by the Spanish soldiery, who, with characteristic cruelty, used unsparingly both fire and sword, putting to death thousands of the helpless inhabitants. Another decade brought the memorable siege, conducted by the powerful Alexander, Prince of Parma, which lasted for fourteen months ; then, dispirited Antwerp made overtures to. the Spanish government, gladly accepting peace at their own terms. It seemed impossible for the city to recover from that blow, which for so long a period of time had prostrated every energy ; to still further reduce their ability, their shipping interests and their entire foreign trade suffered greatly through the intrigues of their formidable rivals, the Dutch. Napoleon materially aided them in the re-establishment of their commercial interests, and for a time a new era of prosperity dawned upon Antwerp, only to be again entirely overthrown by the unfortunate revolt of 1830.

Slowly recovering from this series of disasters, it has only been within the last twenty-five years that its commercial and maritime importance has been fully confirmed ; at present, borne upon the high tide of success, Antwerp again ranks among the important cities of Europe.

Situated upon the banks of the Schelde, at that point deep and wide, it is the principal seaport of the kingdom. The quays constructed by Napoleon the Great, the additional ones of later years, and others projected, have been of invaluable aid in giving to Antwerp a position among the maritime cities of the world, and are convincing proofs that its wealth and prosperity are not entirely matters of history.

lo AFTERMATH.

Here, as in Brussels, the old ramparts have been utilized for boulevards ; but the city is yet strongly fortified, and contains the chief arsenal of the kingdom.

The style of the ancient dwellings is very peculiar. They are considered to be genuine specimens of domestic architecture during the Middle Ages. The roofs are very steep and high, with rows of dormer-windows ; three and four were quite frequently seen, while in one instance I counted six, and in another seven tiers. At the corners of the narrow, crooked streets, in the old, unchanged part of the city, are often placed quaint shrines ; each one holds an image of the Madonna or one of the saints, which is sometimes almost covered with offerings of withered flowers. Such little peculiarities, so unlike anything seen at home, quickly attract the notice of a stranger, and time is required in order to become familiar with such novel sights.

Only a few hours could be given to Antwerp ; the principal attractions being the cathedral, with its magnificent spire and fine paintings, and the museum, whose choice collection is said to admirably represent the Flemish school of different periods.

For centuries, Cologne and Antwerp have contended for the honor of having been the birthplace of the greatest of the Belgian painters; latterly, these claims have been renounced in favor of the little German village of Seigen. There, without doubt, Rubens was born, and there his early childhood was passed. After the death of his father, his mother removed with him to Antwerp, the home of the Rubens family, where he was educated, lived, and died. Although many years of

ANTWERP. 19

his life were spent in foreign lands, yet after he was knighted by Charles I. of England and ennobled by Philip IV. of Spain, he returned to his old home, where he continued to live in great magnificence. His house, designed by himself, yet stands, fronting upon one of the small squares of the city; though not of grand dimensions, it has Corinthian columns, and is richly decorated. In this house was the extensive and very valuable collection, including every variety of art, much of which he had collected during his foreign travels. On the top of the house stands his bust, and a tablet records the fact that there the illustrious painter lived and died. It is impossible for one to make even the briefest visit to this city without being in some degree impressed with the idea of the influence which Rubens exerted upon the time in which he lived, and which is still felt in his works which live after him.

In the church of St. Jacques, abounding in beautiful sculpture, are private chapels belonging to the wealthiest and most distinguished families of Antwerp ; among them is the Rubens chapel, where the family are buried. The altar-piece is a fine work, designed by Peter Paul himself ; the paintings were executed by his own hand, the ornamental carving and sculptured figures being the work of an artist friend.

The cathedral of Notre Dame is within the limits of the old city, not far from the river, and amidst surroundings that are small and mean. It is a grand specimen of Gothic architecture, and has the distinction of being the only church in Europe having six aisles. Its proportions rival those of the great Italian

20 AFTERMA Til.

cathedrals; its dimensions being two hundred and fifty by five hundred feet. This church was comparatively new at the time of the raid by the Iconoclasts, and was the object on which they vented their deepest rage. In its great size, and with seventy altars, it was, with the single exception of St. Peter's, the largest and most magnificent church in Christendom. It was shamefully despoiled, and those Calvinistic zealots were guilty of excesses which should have made a pagan blush.

Only one of its projected towers has been completed ; a graceful and elaborate open spire, more than four hundred feet high. This mass of finely wrought stone has been the admiration of many generations ; and although modern architects have ventured to criticise the want of harmony in its proportions, or rather in some of the minute details of this lofty pinnacle, yet in the eyes of an unprofessional observer it does not even require its renown of centuries to cause it to appear a work of wondrous beauty.

In wandering through the church, its valuable paintings are suggested by the green drapery seen at intervals upon the walls. Under the magic influence of a fee, these are promptly drawn aside by the sacristan, during the hours when there is no service. Among its numerous paintings, the church possesses three of the most celebrated pictures by Rubens : the Descent from the Cross, the Elevation of the Cross, and the Assumption. The former is undoubtedly the most familiar, from photographs and engravings, and is magnificent. The figures introduced are given with such a marvellous fidelity to nature that one is moved to tender pity at

ANTWERP. 2 1

the sad sight. This famous masterpiece is a winged picture : the interior designs are the Salutation, and Presentation in the Temple ; the exterior, St. Christopher carrying the infant Saviour, and a hermit.

The church contains many fine monuments, ancient and modern stained-glass windows, rare specimens of wood carving, and paintings of recent date, as well as those of medicEval times. In rather an obscure part of the church there hangs against one of the pillars a small painting upon white marble, which is very beautiful. It is a head of Christ, and was for a long time accredited to Leonardo da Vinci, but is now supposed to be the work of some unknown Flemish copyist, though taken from the Christ in the Last Supper, by Vinci.

A little one side of the principal portal of the cathedral is an old well, protected by a canopy of very elaborate design, which shows the wonderful skill of Ouentin Matsys, the blacksmith-painter. Of the many who go there daily to draw water, probably few think of the exquisite delicacy of curb and cover ; but the traveller from a land where elegantly wrought canopies for street wells are unknown, looks with charmed eyes upon this perfection of grace and beauty. Our wonder increases on learning that the tradition is that it was made as the result of a wager with a fellow-workman, from bar iron, and with only the ordinary tools of a blacksmith. However much or little truth there may be in the legend, the cover is there, and it is not disputed that it was made by Matsys.

Four perpendicular bars of iron rise from the corners of the curb, midway upon them are small statues, and from them, in graceful curves, arches spring, and meeting above, form a pedestal for the figure of the patron saint of Antwerp ; this mythical hero, Salvius Brabo, appears in full knightly armor, although a pygmy in stature. The shafts and arches are covered with twining stems, clustering flowers, and clinging tendrils. Such a display of genius indicated a born artist ; measures were taken by which he was enabled to cultivate his talent ; wood carving was his next step, and painting soon followed.

The museum, with its seven hundred pictures by painters of note, — such as Holbein, Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Jordaens, Matsys, Teniers, and others, — would require days instead of hours for one to appreciate their beauties, or feel qualified to allude to them in other than the most general terms.

HOLLAND. 23

III. Holland

" A land that lies at anchor and is moored, In which they do not live but go aboard."

Leaving Antwerp in the gloom of a pouring rain did not seem a very auspicious commencement of a journey into a land where there was " water, water everywhere."

Although it was the middle of August, there was the freshness of May upon every leaf and blade of grass ; this verdure and bloom made the country appear particularly beautiful, and the ride was thoroughly enjoyable. The time passed so quickly that I was surprised when the sight of the level reaches of land, the great and lesser windmills, canals, ditches, peculiar costumes, and a prevailing quaintness indicated that we were leaving the lowlands proper, and nearing the hollow-land.

The houses were quite uniform in their appearance, usually built of brick, with peaked roof and overhanging eaves. Near each farm-house was the large, redroofed barn, its size suggesting anticipations of a rich harvest. Its seemingly disproportionate dimensions are accounted for by the fact that here all that pertains to a farm — stock, tools, and crops — is always housed under one roof. Close at hand were carefully cultivated gardens with beds of showy flowers, and generally a clump of trees or hedge-like row. One noticeable peculiarity of the latter was that they invariably leaned in one direction, owing, I suppose, to the prevailing western winds sweeping across the level lands. Many of the canals and even the lesser ditches are bordered by trees, less valued for their shade than the useful purpose they serve in materially strengthening the banks by means of their interlacing roots and fibres. I noticed among the more common varieties the willow and poplar; in fact, the willow is extensively cultivated for its boughs, which are used to repair banks and dikes.

The railroads throughout Holland are built upon embankments, affording an opportunity for one to look down and across the well-tilled farms, only divided by the canals and lines of trees. Upon these canals, as far as the eye can reach, one sees at intervals the broad arms of the windmills, doing their ceaseless work among the grazing lands and growing grain. Herds of sleek, well-fed cattle, all black and white in some combination, but never with other color, are roaming the rich pasture lands.