Kossuth and Magyar land; or, Personal adventures during the war in Hungary

Front matter

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Chapter I

Commencement of the Hungarian Struggle. — My own Views thereon. — How directed. — Departure from England as Correspondent of a London Journal. — M. Pulsky. — Hungarian Refugees at Folkstone. — Arrival at Paris. — Conduct of the Liberal Party in France towards other oppressed Nationalities. — Description of the Great Highway between Paris and Strasburgh. — Bombardment of Rastadt. — Alsace and the Bavarian Palatinate. — Proceed to Carlsruhe. — Political Aspect of Baden. — Stuttgard. — The Frankfort Parliament.— Condition of Wurtemburg. — Ulm. — Augsburg. — Munich. Passau. — Linz. — Arrival at Vienna. — Political Excitement. — Emasculating System of Metternich - - 1

Chapter II

Author's Reception by the Police. — Letter-opening Bureau. — System of Espionage, and its Effects. — The present Austrian Administration. — The Hereditary Nobility — Attempts of the Government to raise a Loan in England. — Financial Position of the Country. — Interview with Baron Werner. — Mr. Magenis. — The American Ambassador. — Interview with Lord Ponsonby. — Conversation with Prince Schwarzenberg. — Failure to obtain a legal Admission hito Hungary. — Resolve to attempt it in a less regular Form. — Proceed into

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Chapter III

Baden. — Disabilities of the Austrian Press. — The Hungarian Magnates. Their Pusillanimity and Treachery. — Gloggnitz and the Styrian Alps. — Details of my Eoute. — Enter Friedberg. — Succeed in averting the Suspicion of the Police. — Pinkafeld. — New Interrogatory. — A Hebrew Schoolmaster. — Strike direct for the Platten See. — Am challenged and arrested. — A Court Martial. — Imprisonment at Friedberg — Bemoval to Hartberg under a Guard.- — Their Behaviour. — Critical Position at the Hotel at Hartberg. — How I escaped the Danger. — -Am sent on to Gratz. — Description of the Country. — Befusal of the Governor of Gratz to my Bequest to be permitted to proceed to Trieste. — I am transferred to Vienna. — My Gaiters and their Disposal. — Correspondence with the Austrian Government. - - - - 43

Chapter IV

Application to the Austrian Commanders for Passes to their respective Camps. — How frustrated. — Klapka's Sortie from Comorn. — Military Pusillanimity. — Summons to attend at the Stadthauptmannschaft. — Am replaced under Arrest. — An Order is read to me from Marshal Welden directing me to quit Vienna, and the Austrian Dominions, within twenty-four Hours. — Character of my Conductors. — Nature of our Conversation. — Perils environing the Austrian Monarchy. — Character of the Imperial Family. — My new Position, and the Train of Benection evoked by it. — Description of the Mode by which I eluded the Austrian Police. — British Bepresentatives at the Court of Vienna, Sir B. Gordon, Lord Ponsonby. — Erroneous Impressions formed by both the Austrian Court and People as to the True Principles that actuate the Nation through such Media. — Enhancement in Price of Provisions throughout Austria. — Description of Ober (Esterreich. — State of Agriculture. — My Boute. — Arrival at Scharding. — Scene at parting with my Conductor. — Reception at Neuhaus. — Social Aspect of Bavaria. — Utter

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Uselessness of a British Ambassador at Munich. — Life of an Attache. — Scene between the American Minister and Prince Schwarzenberg, —Munich. — Road to Innspruck. — Description of that City. — Austrian Spies. — Road through the Passes of the Tyrol.— A Croat Officer.— The Italian Tyrol.— Trento.— Verona, Maestra, etc. — Italian Landlord. — Am invited by the Austrian Officers to join their Circle in the Evening. — Unpleasant Discussion and its Consequences. — Venice and the Bombardment. — The Venetian Deputies. — Tranquil Appearance of the City. — Treviso. — Review the Site of Charles Albert's Campaign. — Arrival at Trieste. — Am informed by the Vice-Consul that the Austrian Government has some Inkling of my Designs. — Observe a Vienna Police Agent at Lloyd's — Withdraw, and go on board a Steamer departing for Corfu. — The Austrian Lloyd's and the Economy of their Steamers. — On reaching Corfu receive Tidings of Gorgey's Defection. — Wait for a Confirmation. — None arriving, cross over to Albania with the View of re-entering Hungary - - 64

Chapter V

Land at Syada in Albania. — British Vice-Consul. — Proceed to Philatris. — Economy of an. Albanian Household. — Hospitality of the Primate of Philatris. — Sketches of Albanian Scenery. — The Greek Church in Albania. — Route to Janina. — Description of the Town and its Vicinity. — The Pindus Range. — Scene at Triakhana. — Turkish Commissioner of Justice. — District of Grebna. — Enter Boetolia (the Ancient Macedonia). — Plain of Monastir. — Quarrel with the Guide. — How finally settled. — Description of Monasteria. — The Pasha. — Intelligence of Gorgey's Defection confirmed. — Resolve to proceed to Viddin in Bulgaria, 'where Kossuth and the Exiles had sought Refuge.* — Perlipe. — Kuprilik. — The Balkhan Range. — Kumanowa. — Vraniya. — Proceed to Lescovitza in a Bullock Dray. — Adventures on the Road. — Lescovitza. — A Magyar Doctor. — Departure for Nissa. — heavy Rains causing the Rivers to swell. — Nissa and its Roman Castle. — The Greek Doctor. — Accompany the Turkish Post to the Servian Quarantine Station at Alexinitza — Horrors

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of a Servian Quarantine. — 'Signs of Progress in Servia. — The Physique and Moral Character of the People. — A Servian Magistrate. — The Table Land of Servia.— Excellent Military Road along the Frontier. — Quarrel with the Suraje. — Another Quarantine Station. — Treachery of Guide and consequent Detention. — Entry into Viddin. — Am about to be carried before the Pasha, when I encounter General Guyon and Mr. Longworth. — Am accompanied by the latter to the Pashalic. — A Khan in Viddin. — Take up my Quarters at General Guyon's. — Sketch of our daily Life.— The Hungarian Encampment. - — Interviews with Kossuth. — Description of Yiddin. — Conversation with Bern in reference to the late War. — Dembinski. — Zamoitzki. — Casimir Batthyany. — Austrian Spies. — Suspected Assault of Belgrade by the Austrians. — Departure from Viddin for that Place in Consequence - 101

Chapter VI

Fate of the Majority of the Exiles. — Difficulty in gaining the Servian Frontier. — Ragovitz and its Quarantine Establishment. — Negotin. — A Railway in Servia. — Rocks of Trajan. — Milanovitsch. — Frightful Conflagration. — Passarovitz. — Signs of Progress in Servia. — Semendria, and the Scenery of the Vicinity. — Belgrade. — Its important mercantile and strategical Position. — Servian Relations with Russia. — Resort to Stratagem to obtain the Endorsement of my Passport by the Austrian Authorities. — Succeed in the Attempt, and take up my Quarters at Semlin. — Squalor and Disregard to Cleanliness manifested by the Sclave Races wherever found. — Description of Semlin. — Embark in one of the Danube Steamers for Pesth. — Forbidding Aspect of the Country. — Navigation of the Danube. — Carlovitz. — Peterwardein. — Esseg. — Mohacs. — A Female Soldier. — Pesth. — Destructive Effects of the late Bombardment. — Execution of Louis Batthyany. — Austrian Infamy.— Treatment of the Honveds by Haynau. — Interposition of the Author in their Favour. — Danger of his being arrested at Pesth. — The Austrians and Wallachs in Transylvania. — Urban. —Austrian Officers at Pesth. — The Jews. — Gypsies

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of Hungary. — Characteristics of the Magyars. — Position of England in reference to Hungary. — Probable Consequences of an English Intervention. — An Anecdote of Eussian Officers. — Admirable Site of Pesth as a Great Capital. — City of Gran. — Comorn, its Fortress, and its Euins. — Gonyo and Eaab. — A Danube Fog. — Presburgh. — A Sclavonian Free Corps. — False Position of English Officers in the Austrian Service, — Digby's Fate. — Being anxious to ascertain whether or no my Correspondence is intercepted by the Austrians, I proceed to Vienna for that Purpose, with the intention of returning to Presburgh the same Evening. — How prevented. — A Week of Misery, terminating in a Second Imprisonment. — My Treatment under Durance. — Veracity of an Austrian Commissioner of Police. — I am sent down under Guard to Trieste. — My Money is seized, and I am left to find my way to Corfu as I can. — I am providentially assisted in the Emergency. - - - - 172

Chapter VII

Embark for Greece and the Ionian Islands, via Ancona and Brindisi. — Local Wind in the Gulf of Trieste. — A slight Swell causes the Captain to put in at Ancona for two Days. — Timidity of Austrian Sailors. — Description of Ancona. — Effects of a Papal Eegimen. — Fracas between the Frolic Brig and an Austrian Frigate. — Brindisi and the Neapolitan Coast. — Arrival at Corfu. — The Blockade of the Greek Ports. — Capture of Greek Men-of-war. — Dine on board one of them in the Harbour of Corfu. — Proceed to Cephalonia. — My Attention is called to an Advertisement in the Osservatore Triestino, issued by Haynau, in which 5,000 Florins is offered for my Apprehension. — Cause of Haynau's needless Alarm. — Proceed to Patras. — Adventure at a Cafe. — Description of the Town and its Environs. — British and Ionian Fugitives. — Anniversary of Greek Independence. — Conduct of Otho, and the Policy of the Government. — Depart for Athens. — Scenery of the Gulf of Lepanto. — Vostizza. — Leutraki. — Calimaki. — Corinth. — Salamis Bay, and the Blockading Squadron. — Landing at the Piraeus. — Foreign

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Squadrons. — Athens. — Political Parties. — Opinion of Foreigners as to the Enforcement of British Rights. — Excursions into the Country Districts of Attica. — The Plain of Athens. — A Bavarian Colony.— The Royal Palace and the Souvenirs of the Greek Struggle. — The Greek Army. — The Kiug.— Hungarian Refugees. — Proceed to Syra in the iEgean. — Anomalous Character of the City. — Greek Maritime Enterprise, — The Cyclades. — Scio — Vourla Bay. — Smyrna — Its Aspect from the "Water. — Peculiarities of the Place. — The Surrounding Country. — Departure for Constantinople. — The Countess Guy on. — Mitylene. — Tenedos. — Distant Views of Mounts Athos and Olympus. — Ida. — The Dardanelles and its Castles. — Gallipoli. — The Sea of Marmora - 235