Perfection in baking

Front matter

Glass Book

,Bsfc

Copyright N°

Preface

»N no other land has the baking and consumption of bakestuffs grown to such an extent as it has within the past few years in this country. Even in the household of the most humble workman, as in the mansion of the rich and prosperous merchant, the American cook and housewife is generally more praised and esteemed for her good bread, pastry and desserts, than for meat cooking. In looking over the numerous cook books that are now placed so freely before the public, the inexperienced can find no way of learning how or why the recipes read as they do. Before any success in baking can be expected, the cook, baker or housewife must be educated to all the particulars of the materials they are about to use.

It is the main object of this work to show in plain language all who are interested how to become successful in baking; the theories of how to put together and how to change recipes, when the same grades or brands of materials are not on hand. Judgment and common sense must be displayed to insure success. Did you ever hear a woman say, "I had good luck to-day with my cakes," but alas, the next time, "Oh, I had such bad luck with my baking" ? There it is; one day good luck, the next time ashamed to show the result of her labor, and all the good materials wasted. It is the lack of theoretical knowledge about baking that brings the bad luck, and many a professional baker is not able to explain the real cause of the mishap. The theories herein laid out plainly before the reader are all the result of careful, practical experiments, and are based upon accomplished facts. Being confident of the success of my efforts in demonstrating some new and practical points to all interested in baking, and wishing to prepare delicious desserts, I shall herewith give my recipes in several parts, each part treating upon a different branch in the art of baking.

New York City.

PART I. Puff Paste, Pies, Tarts, etc

American Puff Paste.

One pound of butter washed well in ice water and one pound of mixed flour ; mix together very light, with one ounce of baking powder, one egg, one teaspoonful of salt and enough ice water to make a smooth paste, same as you make for tea biscuits ; roll out once about eighteen inches long and ten inches wide, turn in the ends to meet in the middle and double again ; let rest in ice box or cellar for an hour, and repeat this until rolled out four times. For tarts and patties, roll out one-quarter of an inch in thickness, cut out with biscuit cutter, lay on clean cooky tins (not greased), and if time allows, let rest awhile in cold place before baking. When ready for the oven, dip the top of a small wine glass or biscuit cutter in hot water and press in the center of each tart, down to near the bottom of the paste; bake in a hot oven. When baked, cut the center all out with a sharp pen-knife and they are ready to fill. This paste is very valuable for the American cook, so as to be able to make patty shells with success, while it takes a great deal more experience to make French puff paste.

French Puff Paste.

Mix stiff one pound of mixed flour (half pastry and half bread flour) with one egg, two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar or rum, and sufficient ice water. Work well and set to rest in ice box half an hour; then press the piece flat towards the edges, place in the center fourteen ounces of good dry butter washed well in ice water, with all the water and buttermilk squeezed out, and pull the edges of the dough over the butter from the four sides. Then you can proceed rolling it as in above recipe. If time allows, bake a little sample first; if it falls over in the oven, roll it out once or twice more; if butter runs out into the pan, let it rest longer on the ice.

Mollaml or Dutch Paste.

Wash in ice water one pound of butter until smooth. To one pound of flour add one-quarter of the butter, one-half teaspoonful cream of tartar, one egg, and one teaspoonful salt ; mix all together with ice water (about one-half pint) into smooth dough; let rest awhile, then roll out in a long strip, break the rest of the butter into small pieces the size of a walnut and lay all over the dough, then turn the left end one-third over, then the other end over this; roll out carefully, one-half inch thick, using no more flour for dusting than is necessary, and turn over like American puff paste. Roll five times, and if butter is very rich, you can cut short say one ounce to the pound of flour.

Vienna Tart Paste.

Chop fine ten ounces of washed butter with one pound of pastry flour, six ounces of sugar, one tablespoonful of pie seasoning, then mix with three eggs into light paste. This paste is very extensively used as crust for the delicious large fruit and cream tarts so common in Europe. If convenient, use six yolks of eggs in place of three whole eggs, as this makes the paste more smooth.

Common Pie Paste.

Mix together, dry, one pound of flour with three-quarters of a pound of lard and butter, and one-half teaspoonful of salt, then moisten with enough ice water to have it hold together, but do not work any more than necessary; and if time allows, let it rest on ice before using. That is the secret of a tender pie crust; working it too much makes what you so often find — shoe-leather pies. If you want a cheaper crust for the bottom, use less shortening. Always wash pies on top with milk before baking; this gives them a lively and appetizing color. If the oven bakes slow from the top, add a pinch of salt to the milk you wash the pies with.

Prepared Pie Seasoning.

Not only in large hotels but also in every hcusehola a large quantity of that delicate flavor, the peel of lemon, is wasted daily. How often are lemons cut up, when in a moment's time the rind could be grated and saved for future use, put in a glass jar and occasionally sprinkled over with a little sugar and a few drops of water to keep moist. In this way you can have lemon flavor free of cost all the year around. Two tablespoonfuls of this lemon peel, two cups of brown sugar, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one tablespoonful of allspice, one-half a nutmeg (grated); mix all together and keep in a can in a cool place, always ready for use.

How to Prepare Pies.

Pie plates should always be greased with butter, then dusted with flour, or what is better, cracker dust; this prevents the pie from tasting greasy after standing a day or two. Never have too rich a pie crust for the bottom, and always roll out very thin. For apple, and fresh fruit pies generally, it is advisable to dust the pie crusts with cracker dust before filling with the fruif, as this absorbs the juice of the fruit while baking. If fresh fruit pies are to be packed in lunch baskets, the following is a very valuable recipe : Mix the berries or other fruit, as soon as picked, with sufficient sugar, a little water, and put away if possible over night; before using, drain off the juice, and cook it, adding three tablespoonfuls of corn starch to every pint of juice, then add the fruit, mix, and it is ready for use. This pie will cut like jelly. Brown sugar is very good for pies and gives a nice flavor

Evaporated and Dried Fruits.

By following instructions given here you will be surprised at the excellent results. Never soak any pie fruit over" night. To one quart of boiling water add one-half pound of berries, apples or apricots, one-half teaspoonful salt, cook ten minutes until swelled up well, add three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar, and one teaspoonful butter; cook five minutes longer, then stir into this two ounces or fn r e tablespoonfuls of corn starch, dissolved in a little cold water ; stir quickly a few moments and set away to cool. This I guarantee to make the most delicate pies from any dried fruits. If fruit is very tart, like apricots, add a little more sugar ; with apricots you can always cook some apples, as apricots are almost too rich; some of the ready pie seasoning can be used to advantage in almost all pies. This mixture can be made in larger quantities and put away in cans or jars, as it keeps well.

— 8 — Custard Pies.

FOR THREE PIES.

Line deep pie plates very thin with plain paste, fill with custard and bake about twenty minutes. For the custard, beat up six eggs with four ounces of powdered sugar, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one-half teaspoonful salt, add two ounces of flour, one teaspoonful of any extract you wish, and three pints of fresh milk; strain all together and bake twenty minutes. This mixture is also fine for cup custard. Bake about twenty minutes. To make sure that any kind of custard pie is done, stick a knife through the pie, and if you can remove it without any custard or milky paste sticking to it the pie is done.

TLtemon Pie.

Boil one quart of water with one cup of canned, fresh or dried apples, three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar, until apples are soft, then stir into it three ounces (or five tablespoonfuls) of dissolved corn starch; remove from the stove and when cool add five to six eggs, one-half teaspoonful salt, the juice of three lemons, two grated lemon peels, and one tablespoonful butter; strain all through a colander and fill into pie dishes lined with plain pie crust. If you want French lemon pie, line flat pie dish with American puff paste, scallop the edge with your fingers or a knife, fill in the cream and lay four bars of the same paste over the top and four more crosswise over them, This is the finest lemon pie found in twenty years' practice.

Pumpkin or- Squnsli Pies.

FOR THREE PIES.

Cut up and boil soft one-half of a small pumpkin, strain off water well and press the dry meat through a colander. Beat up six eggs with six ounces of powdered sugar, one-half teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful ginger, one-half nutmeg; then add the pumpkin, one quart of milk, and one tablespoonful of melted butter, strain all through colander again, fill in deep pie dishes lined with plain pie paste, and bake like custard pie — twenty to thirty minutes. This is enough for three large pies. Generally, as soon as pie is up above the rim of the plate it is done; if bottom is not quite baked, then set on top of hot stove a few seconds to finish bottom. The same rule applies to custard pies.

— 9 — Cream Pies,

FOR TWO PIES.

Boil one quart of milk with one-half pound of sugar (one cup), stir into this quickly, while boiling, four tablespoonfuls of corn starch, mixed with two or three eggs and one teaspoonful of any extract ; a little butter may be added ; you may also use grated lemon or orange peel, or two ounces of chocolate as required. Line a flat pie dish with American puff paste, dust well with cracker dust or flour, press another same size pie dish on top of the paste and set in the oven ; when about half done take top dish off and bake until done ; pour in cream and set away to cool.

Cream Meringue Pie.

Beat only the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth ; mix into it, light, one small cup of sifted powdered sugar ; spread this over the cream and dust with a little sugar; brown in oven about three minutes.

Peach. Meringue.

EUROPEAN STYLE.

Skin say six ripe peaches, cut them up into thin slices, mix with one cup of powdered sugar and divide on twelve deep saucers ; then cover over with meringue, same as for cream meringue pie. If you have a canvas bag and tube you can ornament a little on top. Any other fresh fruit except berries can be used the same way.

Russian Spice Pie.

Line flat pie dish with common pie crust, and spread thin with any kind of jelly or jam. Mix together three-quarters of a pound of sifted bread or cake crumbs, three-quarters of a pound of lard, one quart molasses, one pint of sour cream or water, one ounce of saleratus, one egg, one pint of washed currants, a little chopped citron, a little lemon and vanilla extract, and one tablespoonful of cinnamon or pie seasoning ; mix all together and thicken with enough pastry flour to have a soft paste. Fill this on top of the jelly and bake slow; when baked, dust with powdered sugar. This pie is very fine when a few days old.

JMince Alent for- Pies.

Two pounds of apples, chopped fine; one-half pound of washed currants; one pound of lean boiled beef, chopped fine; half-pound citron and orange peel; two lemons, grated and the juice; one pound raisins, stoning them if time allows; one pound of brown sugar; one-half nutmeg; two ounces of mixed ground spices; add either brand}', wine or cider to taste, and enough of the beef broth to moisten well.

French Jiladelaine Pie or Tarts.

Line pie dish or tart mould with American puff paste and spread with jelly. Stir together lightly one cup of sugar, one cup of sweet almonds pounded very fine, and six yolks or three whole eggs; then add two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three-quarters of a cup of pastry flour and one-half teaspoonful of baking powder. If too stiff, add a little milk or cream. Fill in the dish, roll out a piece of the paste, cut in narrow strips one-quarter of an inch thick, and lay close together across the top of pie. Bake by moderate heat for half an hour; it it -colors too soon on top, cover with a strong, greased paper.

Rice Pie.

Line plate same as for custard pie. One cup of rice, boiled very soft with one-half teaspoonful of salt; beat lightly four eggs with one-half cup of sugar ; add the rice, one-half nutmeg, a little lemon or cinnamon, one quart of milk or cream, and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Press all through a fine colander twice and bake same as custard pie.

Southern Custard or Potato Pie.

Boil or bake four good potatoes and take the skins off ; beat up with five ounces of powdered sugar and five eggs, then add one ounce of flour, one and one-half quarts of milk, one-half grated nutmeg, one-half teaspoonful salt and one tablespoonful melted butter. Strain all through colander, fill in lined pie plates and bake like custard. Sweet potatoes or carrots can be used the same way. You may also steam the potatoes until mealy but not watery.

Rhubarb Pie.

Get your rhubarb cleaned and cut in strips one inch long the night before and mix well with sufficient sugar. Next morning strain off the juice and set on the fire ; when boiling add the rhubarb, boil about two minutes, stir two ounces (three good tablespoonfuls) of corn starch into it and take off to cool. A little cinnamon improves it greatly. Gooseberries are prepared in the same manner.

European Cherry Pie (Flamri).

Line a flat pie dish or layer-cake tin with American puff paste, dust well with cracker dust and cover the bottom with one layer of stoned cherries and bake half done ; pour over the following creme, and put back in oven for five to seven minutes longer. Creme: Four egg yolks, three ounces sugar, a little cinnamon, and two ounces of flour; mix all together, then add one-half pint of sour cream.

Imperial Currant Pie and Tarts.

Line one large flat cake tin with Vienna tart paste, making rim extra thick ; fill with following mixture and bake slow : Beat the whites of five eggs very stiff, adding six ounces of powdered sugar, a little at a time; after the eggs are stiff, add two ounces of chopped almonds and half a pint of sour cream; finally add one pint ot picked red currants. In winter, use a pint can of preserved currants or one pound of washed English currants. This is the genuine recipe from the German Imperial Court Confectionery, and will repay a hundredfold for the little extra care and trouble required in its preparation.

Imperial Vanilla Cream Tarts.

Line a dish with Vienna tart paste, making rim double thickness and bake. Beat the whites of four eggs very stiff, adding six ounces of sugar, a little at a time, then mix in the four yolks and two tablespoonfuls of dissolved gelatine with one tablespoonful of vanilla extract or vanilla sugar; pour into the baked pie crusts and set away in ice box until wanted. In the place of vanilla any other flavor or rind and juice of lemon or orange may be used.

— 12 — Apple Flamri Tarts.

Line flat pie dishes with Vienna tart paste, have side with extra thick rim, dust with cracker meal, cut apples in thin slices, lay them closely together, covering the paste with one layer, sprinkle with sugar, pie seasoning, currants, fine citron and almonds, and bake half done; pour over this the same mixture as above. Peaches and plums may be used the same way, but no berries.

French Tartlets.

Line patty moulds or flat tartlet dishes with American paste, dust well with flour and fill with dried beans or split peas; then pour out all the beans (saving them for the next time) and fill the shells with any jam, jelly or cream. These shells may also be used for oyster patties.

^Metropolitan Cream or Jelly Tarts.

Line moulds as above and fill with jelly or cream and oake, then make a light meringue, spread over the tarts and put back in oven until browned over the top.

Large fatties.

From puff-paste leavings, roll out a sheet one-fourth of an inch thick, cut out round the size of dish you wish to serve it on, wash the edge a little with water and fill the center with your meat or game; roll out another sheet of fresh paste, cover over the meat, lapping over the border; cut off sharp and scallop a little. For large patties, lay another ring of fresh paste around the border. Wash all well with egg, prick a few times with a fork and decorate with small thin stars, etc. ; bake at about 370 degrees.

Large Patty Shells.

Cut out a round bottom layer one-quarter of an inch thick from good French paste, lay it on strong pan that will not warp in the oven. Now make a ball of fine shavings, cover with thin paper and tie together with fine thread to keep it in shape. Set this in the center of the paste and dust well with flour. Then roll out a piece of the paste one eighth of an inch in thickness and layover the ball, covering it thoroughly and lapping over the border, cut it off sharp on the edges, prick with a fork, wash well with egg, decorate with little ornaments of different shapes (stars, squares, crescents, etc.) and some narrow strips of paste laid crosswise. When baked, cut about two inches from the top all around with a sharp knife, remove the cover, cut the thread, take out the paper and shavings carefully and after cleaning out thoroughly they are ready to fill with fricassee, oysters, etc.

Vol-au-Vents.

These serve the same purpose as patty shells, only they are not so hard to make. Roll out a strip of best puff paste one-third of an inch thick and cut with a sharp knife one and one-half inches wide, long enough to form a ring the size of the dish in which you wish to serve it. Care must be taken to avoid touching the sides of any part of puff paste after it is cut, and also avoid allowing the waste to run down the sides, as this prevents the paste from rising even. In making a vol-au-vent, one end is carefully flattened down and washed with water, the other end lapped over this and afterwards washed with egg and pressed down evenly. The top may be marked crosswise with a fork. Extra sma'i ornaments (stars, squares, crescents, etc.) are baked separately to decorate the fricassee after it is filled in the ring.

General Rules.

Apple pies should always have the prepared seasoning. Gooseberries are improved by a little cinnamon or meringue.

Save all your broken crackers; dry them, pound fine and save for pies.

All pie dishes should be greased, and then dusted with cracker meal.

Never use soft butter or lard for pie crust. Always wash butter in ice water.

For baked pot pies (either meat or fruit), use the American Puff Paste and prick well.

Three ounces of sugar are sufficient to every quart of milk for custards of any kind.

Dried apples, cooked soft enough to press through colander, are very nice for meringue pies.

Never use too much flavoring of any kind in baking, especially cinnamon or almond extract.

All fresh fruit should be mixed with sugar before filling in pies. A little butter increases the delicacy.

Good corn starch can be used in a great many ways in pie baking, but only the best will give satisfaction.

Huckleberries and blueberries should always be mixed with some apples, either fresh or canned, to increase flavor.

Always keep a can of the prepared pie seasoning on hand, as this will increase the delicacy of flavor of almost every pie.

The recipe for American Puff Paste, if made as directed, will be worth more than the price of this book to any cook or housewife.

All patties, tarts, banburys, etc., are much improved if they are allowed to rest on ice for at least half an hour before going into the oven.

If corn starch is to be used in place of flour, use the best. Don't use too much, a large tablespoonful always is sufficient to every pint of milk or water.

Always follow our general rules and change flavors to suit yourself. Every one of our recipes can be used with different fruits, flavors and names changed, but follow the instructions otherwise.

Success in pie baking depends a good deal on the mixing of the crust. Never work any more than necessary; just stir around enough to have it hold together and let rest as long as possible in cold place.

Prick the top crust on every pie to let the steam escape. When using fresh fruit, insert in center of top crust a small round tube of tin or strong paper, through which all steam will escape as through a chimney.

Whenever cornstarch is to be used, it pays to use only the very best. We can recommend Kingsford's Oswego Cornstarch as the purest and sweetest.

FOR JXOTES AA'D RECIPES.

PART II Puddings, Souffle, etc

Cottage Broad Pudding.

For ten persons. Soak as much as a half loaf of stale bread or six biscuits in a quart of milk. Beat up well together four or five eggs, one cup of sugar, one teaspoonful vanilla, one-half teaspoonful salt and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Mix up well with the bread, adding one cup of large raisins. Bake in a buttered and sugar-dusted china dish or tin pan. Set this dish in a pan of hot water. A little nutmeg improves the flavor.

Bread and Butter Pudding.

Slice your bread thin, spread well with butter, and fill your dish half full of this buttered bread; then pour custard (prepared same as for custard pie) over it ; omit raisins and bake same as the other bread pudding.

Farina or Indian Afeal Pudding.

One-half pound of farina or meal, stirred into one quart of boiling milk and leave on fire until it thickens; set away to cool, stirring into it, when cold, one-half pound of sugar, yolks df four eggs, the grated rind of a lemon and the stiff froth of the whites of four eggs; then add one even teaspoonful of good sifted baking powder, and one-half nutmeg, grated. Mix in well and bake one-half hour — not too hot.

Souffle.

Proceed the same as above, using eight eggs, and do not oake until time to serve. Bake in a hotter oven, using a china dish, and do not set into hot water as you do with puddings.

Tapioca and Sag-o Pudding.

For twelve persons. Put one-half pound of tapioca or sago in three pints of boiling water (never soak over night), stir and set on a slow fire ; stir continually to keep from sticking to the bottom. When it is all soft and jellied, put in double boiler with one pint of milk and one-quarter of a pound of butter and cook twenty minutes more until jellied again, setting away to cool. Beat up well four eggs with three-quarters of a cup of sugar (six ounces), one grated lemon, and a little nutmeg ; then mix well with the other mixture and bake about forty minutes — not too hot.

Cottage Rice Pudding.

For twelve persons. Put one-half pound of well-soaked rice in a galvanized kettle on a slow fire, with about three pints of boiling water and cook until all swelled and soft. If it boils dry, add more boiling water but do not disturb. When done, set away to cool. Proceed the same as above for sago. For sultana rice pudding, add one cup of sultana seedless raisins to above mixture.

Rice Pudding, Family Style.

Pour two quarts of boiling water over a pound of rice and cook very soft, then adding lemon peel, one pound of sugar and a little nutmeg, two tablespoonfuls butter, and two tablespoonfuls corn starch. When all the water is boiled in, add a pint of milk and cook all dry again; then pack solid in any mould and let it settle. Before serving, turn out on~a deep plate and sprinkle with cinnamon and pour over it a nice soft vanilla custard, cold. Dip your mould in cold water before filling with the rice.

Roly-Poly, or Steamed Pudding.

Mix together lightly, as for tea biscuits, one and one-half pounds of rich pastry flour, four ounces of butter or lard, one ounce of good baking powder, a little nutmeg, the yolks of three eggs, one-half teaspoonful salt and about cne pint of milk. Roll out about eighteen inches long and ten inches wide. Spread with any fruit or jam; roll up, set in a greased pan in a steamer and cover over. It will be done in half an hour.

— 19 — Fruit Dumpling.

For this the paste is the same as Roly-Poly Pudding. Roll ou. one-quarter of an inch thick; cut out with large, round cake cutter; put fruit and sugar in middle and double over; set in greased muffin tins and steam about one-half hour. A dozen different kinds can be made from this formula.

Cahinet Pudding.

Fill moulds three-quarters full with lady fingers or sponge cake, cut up fine; pour over it a rich custard, same as used for custard pie, and flavor to taste.

Diplomatic Pudding.

Proceed by the same rule as for cabinet pudding ; mix currants, sultana raisins and a little citron (cut very fine) with the sponge cake.

Tutti-Frutti Pudding.

Follow the same formula, only you may use pieces of different kinds of cake and sprinkle the fruit over the bottoms of moulds. Different names may be given this by using special fruits, such as peaches, oranges, etc.

Cold Farina or Indian Pudding.

Boil one-half pound of farina or meal with three pints of boiling milk, stir until it starts to thicken, then let it cool; add a little lemon or other flavor. Beat up stiff the whites of four eggs, mix all together, fill in moulds and set on ice.

Boiled Indian Pudding.

One cup -of Indian meal and one-half cup of flour, pour into one quart of boiling milk; when it thickens, add one-half cup (four ounces) of brown sugar, one-half cup of finely chopped suet, a little salt, four eggs and a little nutmeg ; two tablespoonfuls of moiasses may be added. Tie in a cloth and boil or steam from four to five hours.

— 20 — Poor Man's Pudding.

About six stale biscuits (or three biscuits and three corn muffins) grated fine, add a handful of stoned raisins, some washed currants, a good handful of brown sugar, and one cupful of flour. Chop fine with the flour one-quarter of a pound of beef suet and one teaspoonful of good baking powder. Mix all together with sufficient milk to make a paste; steam in greased and sugared dish about two hours. Add a little nutmeg or mace.

English Plum Pudding.

Chop fine one pound of beef suet with one cup of pastry flour; add three-quarters of a pound of brown sugar, three apples chopped fine, one-half pound prunes, one pound of raisins, one pound of currants, five eggs, two grated lemon peels, one teaspoonful each of grated cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, four biscuits or one-quarter of a loaf of bread, which you have first soaked in milk, and one glass of rum. Mix all well together, steam five hours in suitable mould, or boil four hours in napkin if preferred; dust with fine sugar afterwards on the platter, pour a little strong rum over it and set the rum on fire.