Letters from the West Indies, during a visit in the autumn of MDCCCXXXVI, and the spring of MDCCCXXXVII

Front matter

Glass p £. 1 3 1

Book

IT tlftr

Preface

Having accompanied my friends, Joseph Sturge, Thomas Harvey, and John Scoble, on a visit to the West Indies, the Letters, now presented to the public, performed the office of a Journal ; those circumstances, and incidents which I thought would interest my friends, were forwarded to them, through this medium. I made no search after afflictions and distresses, either to promote or substantiate any particular object : my mind was unprejudiced, rather inclining to hope that the state of things in the West Indies, might be better than had been represented, as occurring under the momentous experiment of the Apprenticeship system. I attended but few of the Special Magistrates' Courts : they were so rife with contrarieties, discrepancies, persecutions, and . animosities, my mind came to the conclusion, that men who could be governed by the apprenticeship Jaws, could be governed by the laws of free men; and fully adopted Dr. Maddens sentiment ; " my opinion is, that the negro s are qualified for complete and immediate freedom."

IV PREFACE.

On my arrival at New York, I was unwilling to leave the United States, without becoming a little acquainted with them ; accordingly I deferred my return to England upwards of eleven months, and landed at Liverpool very recently. The West Indies in 1837, by Sturge and Harvey, had been sent out to me, and I had much satisfaction in perusing their work. On returning home, I found that the public had welcomed it with great interest ; and that the circle of my acquaintance was willing, and many of them desirous, to read more on the same subject ; and as my friends' book could not refer to Demerara, from their not having been there ; it was natural to think some information from that Colony, would prove interesting. I had however, no manuscript in my possession ; but the letters which I had forwarded, had been carefully preserved, and all had come safe to hand. These then, I have revised and improved, with the assistance of my memory. However imperfect they may be, they will, at least, serve as a memento of my visit; and the publication affords me the opportunity of introducing a few Prints from my sketches, which may at least claim the credit of being tolerablv correct representations. It is with pleasure I make the acknowledgement, of having taken several of my statistical remarks from R. Montgomery Martin's interesting and lucid history of the West Indies. Many doubtless are the faults and imperfections in this little publication; and should

PREFACE. V

these be pointed out to me, in a spirit of kindness, that kindness shall be felt and acknowledged ; but should the critics' darts fall thick and envenomed upon me, the remembrance of the following sentiment and accompanying advice, may enable me to sustain them.

" Severe ourselves, at last our works appear, When ah ! we find our readers more severe."

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING PLATES, et cet.

Map to face the Title Page.

Page 19.

Entrance to Dernerara River ; the Building on the extreme left is the back of Camp House, the Governor's residence.

Page 28.

London Missionary Society's Chapel— Boys' School Room— and Minister's Residence over it, George Town ; also, London Missionary Society's Chapel, and Infant School Room ; this is a side view of the same Chapel, one entrance to which is represented in the previous plate.

Page 32.

Public Buildings, George Town— Dernerara.

Page 46."

Main Street, South Cuminsburg, George Town.

Page 56.

Residences in South Cuminsburg, George Town.

Page 68.

New Amsterdam — Crab Island — and Berbice River ; the Public Buildings of Berbice are exhibited in this Print.

Page 80.

New Amsterdam looking up Berbice River; the houses stand so far back, it was impossible to sketch more than one without being opposite to them.

The Town, Harbour, and Island of St. Thomas. The elevated building like a Church to the right, was formerly the residence of a Buccaneer, named Blue Beard; this drawing was taken too hastily for the whole of the Town to be correctly sketched.

Baptist Missionary Station at Yallahs ; the service was performed in the Cottage to the right, previous to the erection of the New Chapel— the New School nousc is behind the centre tree.

Page 184.

Chapel on the Bclvidero Estate, built by the Apprentices.

Letter XV

Embarks from Jamaica — Arrival at New York, with Remarks thereon. ----------- Page 238.

Appendix. --------- Page 2J!jl to 263. i

ERRATA.

Page 11, line 14, read four-and-a- half.

Page 16, line 11, omit as.

Page 32, line 5, for torough read thorough.

Page 33, line 13, for 66" read 6° 10 V -

Page 33, line 16, omit and.

Page 84, last line, for their accord, read their own accord.

Page 114, last line, for embark, read disembark.

Page 150, line 12, for by the, read for the.

Page 224, line 14, for twenty feet, read twenty feet high.

Page 238, line 3, for debarked, read embarked.

Letter I

Barbadoes, llth. Month, 13tfi., 183G, My Dear F- r.

We landed here after a favourable voyage of twenty-six days, having passed the Nightingale Mail packet, which left Falmouth a fortnight before us. In order that thou mayest picture our embarkation and debarkation, I will copy for thy perusal from my sea journal the first and two last dates.

10 th. Month, llth.

At a quarter to twelve, a. m. we left the harbour of Falmouth, on board the Mail Barque, Skylark, Captain Lieut. Ladd, bound to Barbadoes. Our party were Joseph Sturge and myself, of Birmingham ; John Scoble, of London, and Thomas Harvey, of Barnsley. We were accompanied to the ship by my brother-inlaw, Alfred Fox, John Sturge, and Barclay Fox. The demand of the boatmen was half a guinea each, an excessive charge, allowed by the rules of the port. We had been on board two hours, when our Captain arrived in his cocked hat and uniform with the Mails : w T e had occupied the time in making acquaintance with the

B ship, and I cannot say our first ascent upon deck; and descent into the cabin were gratifying ; lie bulwarks were forbiddingly high, the deck was wet, the top of the cabin lights was covered with meat in its recently slaughtered state ; joints being also hung around in various parts of the vessel, interspersed with cauliflowers, cabbages, and turnips, an abundant provision, but unpleasant to the sight, as we were already squeamish from the rolling of the ship, though at anchor. In the cabin it was impossible to stand upright from the low ceiling : there were berths only for twelve, whereas there were fifteen gentlemen and three ladies. The quarter deck was level with the main deck, and no view over the bulwarks except by mounting on the gangways, or on the poop, which having no defence at the sides was evidently not intended for much perambulation ; the whole had a prison like effect. We learnt that our Skylark was an old ten gun barque, a kind of vessel disliked by all navigators for its inconvenience ; there are now but few in the service, and I believe the new Mail packets are elegant and convenient. We set to work getting our moveables placed into our berths, and made light of petty inconveniences. We cordially bid our friends adieu ; they returned in the boat, and the hoisting of sail began : our sailing master took his station upon the poop, and gave his orders with the utmost volubility ; which, conjoined with the ready willingness and alertness of the crew, gave the impression that master and man were fully competent to the working of the ship ; the sails being set and the wind favourable, we quickly left St. Mawes and Pendennis castles frowning on either hand, and reached the open sea. The sun broke out, and we could descry every well known object with the greatest ease ; it was an hour of sombre enjoyment, in which the light despondency of leaving home, was mingled with a thought of thankfulness at having many favourable auspices inviting us onward. Pendennis castle and Wodehouse-place faded from our view ; then the light houses at the Land's End : the motion of the vessel increased ; we took no notice either of the dinner or tea bell, and ere the evening came, were all ill and prostrate in our berths.

llth. Month, 12th.

We have now been at sea rather more than three weeks, and yesterday evening our sailing master informed us we should see land this morning by eight o'clock. I rose early not being able to sleep from the excessive heat, and witnessed a beautiful sun-rise. Both the rising and setting of the sun are more mellowed than in England, the colours change more rapidly ; and before the rays are quite extinct in the west, the stars are visible ; the duration of twilight not being more than twenty minutes ; at least after that lapse of time one cannot read a book.

At eight o'clock " Land O," was shouted from the mast head, and after breakfast it was visible from the deck 3 which proved the truth of the master's reckoning, and he had praise from all at being so successful in his land fall. The sight was cheering', and occasioned great bustle, as we expected to land ; but the breeze dying away We soon saw we should be disappointed.

The coast though not mountainous, was elevated and picturesque, as we looked upon the hilly part of the island called Scotland. The heat was oppressive, being 85° in our cabin : ' and we have suffered most by night, owing to the number of passengers. During the day the awning protects from the sun, but our nights are sad, from the sky-lights being closed 3 the passengers who sleep on the table, on the benches, and on the floor, are afraid of cold from the night air ; we in our berths are therefore melted, and by morning really gasping for breath. No Captain should take more passengers than he can comfortably accommodate, and especially through the tropics, where it becomes a most serious inconvenience. Our party appeared to suffer less than the West Indians, which I attributed to our Temperance habits : they who had drunk wine daily, complained of head ache and other feverish symptoms. On the whole we have had a pleasant voyage, though our Captain quarrelled three successive days with his sailing Master, who was at last put in arrest, and we had to beg him off from a Court Martial,

THE WEST INDIES. O

On entering the tropics, Neptune paid his usual visit, to demand his tribute for the enrolment of his new children and to shave poor sailor boys ; and it was a day of much hilarity for the crew. Neptune is a cunning deity, his dominion extends twenty- five degrees on each side of the line ; and entering the tropics does not make his children wholly free, as when they cross the line they must pay again.

13th. Yesterday wore away, and afforded us considerable pleasure in approaching the land ; but the breeze dying away, we soon gave up the idea of landing by day light. We had a lunch yesterday and to-day, instead of regular dinners, by which means we escaped earlier from the hot cabin. It is a trial to be long at dinner when one is panting for breath : the right plan would be to dine off one dish, and then away; whereas we have soup, — then a wait for fish, — then a long wait for a course of meat, — then a tedious wait for a course of pastry, — then a tiresome wait for the dessert ; and long before that is finished, we are wiping our foreheads : in fact the greater part of our company have left the table the last few days before the dinner was over. There is some temptation to eat and drink too much at sea ; we have coffee at six a.m.; breakfast at eight ; lunch at twelve ; dinner at four ; coffee immediately after ; tea at seven ; and supper at nine : happily however there is no compulsion to partake of all,

To-day we watched the land till sun- set, and having a young moon, it aided us to observe our progress, and to see our course, for there is no light house on the south point of the Island round which we had to turn for Carlisle Bay, and into which we entered and cast anchor at half-past ten, p. m. A shout of congratulation escaped from our company, when the cessasion of noise proved the anchor had found its rest, and much bustle ensued. Some would go ashore that instant ; Captain Ladd, with his cocked hat and sword, hastened to pay his devoirs, as in duty bound, to his superior officer, the Captain of the Belvidere Frigate, then in the harbour, and which had been stationed there for some months. The rest of us turned into our ovens for the last stewing, endeavouring to woo a little hot sleep : this was soon disturbed by our Captain's return, who brought word that a fever was raging at Bridge Town ; and this at once deranged our plan, as Joseph Sturge quickly decided it would be best not to stay in Barbadoes. This morning I rose early, the dawn commenced, and I gazed with vivid interest upon the first tropical shore I had ever beheld. I soon discovered the cabbage tree, (Palma Altissima) and cocoa nut, (Cocos Nucifera.) The richness of their green huge pendent leaves burst upon my sight; every thing had a foreign aspect ; and our introduction into a southern clime was at once evident.

The purple azure of sun- rise was again glorious , the evidence of Negro inhabitants was before us ; boats came from two different hotels with black rowers, each with a Negro woman as steerer, to deliver their cards of recommendation. The women came on board and politely invited us to the shore. We had previously made up our minds to go to one of the most retired, and therefore took the cards of H. Lewis, who had been recommended as very respectable, and her house being upon the shore made it desirable. We were now about to reach the shore, and had for a length of time the evening before endeavoured to discern it, but the moon set, and except a few solitary lights, we saw nothing of the land when the anchor was let go ; but we had been much pleased with the phosphorescence of the ocean during the heaving of the lead, which had been kept going all the evening; a circle of light marked the place where it fell, and when the lead was pulled up, there was a line of glowing light followed the line as it cut through the water : we had also a few days earlier, the opportunity of seeing a flying fish which came on board. The sea was now behind, and the land drew us with strong attractions ; and after the adieus, good wishes, et ceteras, of a large party breaking up, we set off with four black rowers, and our Negro woman to steer us. We soon landed, and reached the inn about nine.

How new every thing appeared ! the jet black of the Negros contrasted strangely with the gay livery of the vegetation in a tropical climate. The houses are low in Bridge Town ; many windows are without glass, but with jalousies to exclude the sun ; there are no chimneys, and the houses are covered with shingles, about the size of tiles. By this time the sun was again hot ; we heard alarming accounts of the fever, but could not think much about it, amidst so many novelties. The inn had an untidy appearance ; no floor or stair carpets, unpapered rooms, and very common furniture ; however we made ourselves at home, and as it was the Sabbath day, we went in the evening to the Methodist Chapel : a more orderly congregation I never saw ; some were Creoles, fair as Europeans, others black in white dresses ; the singing was louder than in England, from the very powerful voices of the Negros. After the meeting, we were introduced to the Minister, with whom we had some interesting conversation. 14th. Before breakfast, we rode a few miles into the country, and called upon a Moravian Minister, who gave a melancholy account of the fatality amongst children under the new laws, partly from an epidemic, the measles, but chiefly from the mothers being forced away from their infant charge to work in the cane fields ; he had an infant school under his care, and it was pleasing to see some children sitting upon the steps, though the school would not open for an hour. From this Missionary station there is a fine view of Carlisle Bay, Bridge Town, and the surrounding country. We were much interested in the cane fields ; they had now thrown up their flowering stems, and would be ready to cut next month : the canes stood so thick and close we could not see far into the fields, and were upwards of six feet high. We saw several gangs at work ; and patiently and steadily they appeared to use their hoes ; one could not help pitying them, knowing it was forced labour. The Negro huts we saw were very mean, much like Irish cabins, but larger, and with a loose overhanging thatch. A stranger here soon witnesses the civility and becoming behaviour of the Negros, and then wonders how the Whites have had resolution to be Slaveholders. We were told that the Slaves were grateful for the freedom of their children, and there has not been an instance of the parents' binding them apprentices.

The Island is at this time green, but has a naked appearance, from having no woods, the tropical trees being isolated. I am somewhat incommoded by the heat, but there is much that is animating in a tropical climate, and the respect from the Negros, and their inoffensive behaviour, make us feel perfectly at home, as regards safety. I had rather have one hundred Slaves round me than be in the company of one overbearing Planter.

LETTER II. Barbadoes, 11th Month, 16th, 1836

Our party lately crowded and inconvenienced on board the Skylark packet, has now finally separated, each to pursue their respective objects. We had for companions during our voyage, three gentlemen from Trinidad, two from St. Thomas, one from St. Vincent, another from Jamaica, and from Barbadoes a physician of some eminence. They soon became acquainted with our views and motives, and we heard much in their conversation to interest us ; and notwithstanding dissatisfaction expressed at the change of events, it was evident that their pockets had been comfortably assisted by the compensation money, and that estates and property in general were rapidly advancing in value. According to our new arrangement, J. S coble and myself proceed to Demarara ; and J. Sturge and T. Harvey are now on their way to Antigua, having embarked in the Mail boat on the 14th. There are four or five of these Mail boats which start the day after the arrival of the Falmouth packet for the different Islands ; and the steamboat for Jamaica sails on the day of arrival ; in this way letters are quickly forwarded to their destination, and passengers to their respective homes.

Barbadoes is twenty-one miles long by fourteen broad, and is interesting from its being the oldest British Colony. The English took possession of it in 1605 ; there were no inhabitants, having been deserted, as is supposed, by the Caribs. In 1627 it was patented by Charles I. to the Earl of Carlisle : this patent was afterwards surrendered by the Earl of Kinnaird, heir to the Carlisle charter, on a payment to him of four-and-aper cent, duty on all exports: the duty still continues, and is a great annoyance to the Planters. It is now in possession of the Crown; and from the high state of cultivation of the Island and valuable exports, realizes a large Sum. I cannot speak as to its expenditure, though I believe the Governor's salary is paid out of it.

A Scotch brig, the Harmony^ having called at Bridge Town on its way to Demarara, there was no necessity for our hurrying away by the Mail boat, and it has enabled J. Scoble and myself to become a little acquainted with the town.

The population of Bridge Town is said to be 30,000, that of the whole Island 115,709; thus divided, 82,807 apprentices, 20,105 free coloured, 12,797 whites. The Island is known to be more thickly peopled than even the " Celestial Empire;''' yet, owing to its systematic culture, it is enabled to support its inhabitants and export to a large amount.

All strangers on their arrival are expected to pay their respects to the Governor, and if not at home, they enter their names in a book kept for the purpose. The present Governor is Sir Evan John Murray M'Gregor, who succeeded Sir Lionel Smith : his Governorship includes Barbadoes, Grenada, St. Vincent's, and Tobago. We embraced an early opportunity, and rode up to Pilgrim House, but had not the satisfaction of seeing the Governor ; the house stands pleasantly in a park, on an eminence, one mile from the town ; and owing to late rains, the tropical shrubs were luxuriant in their foliage, and the grounds were very ornamental. It was pleasing to see, under so hot a sun, the vegetation unfaded and green ; and as the cane fields were uncut, the scenery was in perfection. I observe little difference as to temperature in the tropics ; the range of the thermometer being between 74° and 860 at the present season ;* but the periodical rains divide the months into wet and dry; the principal rains fall in the 7th, 8th and 9th months, after which the canes rapidly advance to perfection ; the harvest commencing in the 12th month,

* This temperature does not apply to the mountains in Jamaica, &c. It. M. Martin gives a greater range from 72° to fJ0°. I was not there in the hottest months.

and continuing for several in succession. During the harvest months there are also some showers, which enable the young cane plants to strike root. Each plant is two or three joints off the top of the ripe cane. They are planted in rows, the plants very near each other, but the rows nearly two feet apart, to admit of hoeing and cleaning. The thick ripe cane must be planted when there are not sufficient tops, and hence a reduction of the produce of sugar on an estate.

We afterwards visited the House of Assembly, which commenced its sittings this week. The Council consists of twelve ; the House of Assembly of twenty-two Members ; but twelve form a quorum. It was advertised to meet at ten A. m. As no Members had arrived at that hour we employed ourselves in looking at the gaol, the wards of which are under the Assembly House: as J. S. intends to transmit particular details, I shall not fully describe the horrors of this barbarous prison. The wards formed the basement of the building on each side ; a passage running from end to end, and one was devoted to men prisoners waiting their trial. The door was unlocked for us, and we went in. They were much crowded, and had no accommodation for the night, except a stone seat, which extended round the room three feet in height ; and here they might remain for months, from not being brought to the bar ; or their trials being delayed for want of witnesses, several months elapsing between the meetings of the

Assize Court. Those who had been tried were at the tread wheel, or in the yard, breaking stones. The task seemed heavy, thirty baskets per day, with only an abatement of four for women. This stone breaking was a subject of controversy in the papers, and no wonder, for the stones were described as being hard and refractory, and the hammers as soft : and their night accommodation was the same, crowded together, with nothing to sit or lie on but the stone bench or floor. There was one apartment for the men, and one for the women ; that for the men was about twenty feet by twenty-five, and into this confined hole, a large number of human beings were crowded every night. We saw the dinner for those in the untried ward served up; it appeared to be simple yam, without salt fish or meat. The women are treated in a similar manner, in a similar darksome room.

We walked over to the tread wheel on one side of the yard, and saw it in full operation ; it was literally a breaking on the wheel. Men were stationed above, holding the womens' arms over a bar : several lost the step, and were catted on their naked backs and legs, but being too weak could not regain the wheel, and dangled ; their shins were broken by its revolution ; blood besprinkled the steps ; and when the ten minutes spell was up, and their arms were loosed, two in particular dropt as if shot: they were insensible for awhile to the call of the driver, and when able to crawl to their resting shed, they again lay down moaning in agony. I examined the arm of one of them, and found it much bruised by the rail ; the whole scene was so shocking, that I could scarcely credit what I had witnessed. One party being off, another of men or women is put on, and so the wheel goes round from morn to night, and without any profitable return ; for there is no machinery attached to it. This outrage on humanity was in sight from the House of Assembly where the legislators were assembling. At a quarter to one, sufficient were present to form a house. A long Police Act was read and passed, (nemine contradicente ;) not one observation was made upon it, it was a burlesque on legislation, for the Bill comprised matters of great moment to the Negros ; but the scenes which were transacting close by, were no burlesque on human suffering. We left, convinced that the friends of the Negro need not be afraid of doing too much. As yet I had seen nothing in the system of Apprenticeship which would bear the light of investigation. We have had some opportunity of observing the Negro's character, and see nothing to warrant the assertion, that he is idle and lazy, and requires compulsion and cruelty to make him labour. I have never seen greater activity than on the wharfs here ; and the competition to hire their services reminds one of the Thames watermen. The Negro features are to me disagreeable, and their " talke, talke,"

a most unintelligible lingo ; yet their behaviour is most orderly and respectful, free from impertinence or begging, and if they were whites, their respectful behaviour would become a theme for praise. They have a risible propensity; and on looking at them, they frequently return it with a smile : how preferable this is to the tiresome clamour of European beggars. I have walked through the town, and about the outskirts, and there is much less to annoy than in many of our public streets. The back streets here are as much superior to the liberties of Dublin, having an appearance of cleanliness and neatness.

The Apprenticeship is yet adding another proof of the patience of the Negro, of the unchristian nature of Slavery, and of the cruelty of the whole system, from the ceaseless persecutions of the poor Blacks, whilst they remain in the power of others.

My attention has been drawn to the stillness of a tropical noon- day, and to the rising music of the evening. One can see nothing, yet every step, when walking out about sun-set/ seems to be in the midst of chirping crickets and other insects ; it is a concert of invisibles, welcoming the coolness and darkness of the night, and almost loud enough to interrupt conversation ; this is quite a contrast to the cawing rooks and screaming jays of an English noon, and the peaceful stillness of rural evening scenes in England. We have been introduced by Lieut. La.dd to J. Prescod, at present editor of the New Times, a liberal paper ; he is a coloured * gentleman, liberally educated, and resides at the edge of the town, in an elegant cottage. He gave us much interesting information, dwelling forcibly on the disabilities of the free coloured inhabitants of Bridge Town.f We thought we had seldom met with more refinement and intelligence ; he is happily married, has no distinguishing marks of negro complexion, and in England he would be esteemed as a gentleman, whilst in Barbadoes he is in some degree despised as a coloured man.

Our waiter at the hotel possesses considerable information ; he is a married man, and his mistress allows him a certain sum per week to maintain his wife and family. He mentioned to us an imposition which had been practised on domestics, thus ; their owners finding that emancipation must take place, from the tenour of the news from England, thought, in addition to the compensation money, they could obtain more from their slaves ; so they told them that freedom was very uncertain, that the bill might be thrown out, but if they would pay so much every year for four years, they should be free : this they complied with, and so were purchasing their freedom ; whereas they