Hochelaga; or, England in the New World

PART I. Lately Published

IN-

WILEY & PUTNAM'S

2 vols., IGmo., or 1 vol. in cloth.

THE CRESCENT AND THE CROSS;

OR,

ROMANCE AND REALITIES OF EASTERN TRAVEL.

BY ELIOT WARBURTON, ESQ.

CRITICAL OPINIOKS ON THIS WORK.

" Nothing but the already overdone topics prevented Mr. Warburton's Eastern sketches from rivalling Eothen in variety: in the mixture of story with anecdote, information, and expression, it perhaps surpasses it. Innumerable passages of force, vivacity, or humor, are to be found in the volumes." — Spectator.

" This delightfdl work is, from first to last, a splendid panorama of Eastern Scenery, 'va the full blaze of its magnificence. The crowning merit of the book is, that it is evidently the production of a gentleman and a man of the world, who has lived in the best society, and been an attentive observer of the scenes and characters v/hich have passed before him during his restless and joyous existence. To a keen sense of the ludicrous, lie joins a pov/er of sketching and grouping v/hich are happily demonstrated." — Morning Post.

" Mr. Warburton has fulfilled the promise of his title-page. The ' Realities' of ' Eastern Travel' are described v/ith a vividness which invests them with deep and abiding interest; while the 'Romantic' adventures which the enterprising tourist met v/ith in his course are narrated with a spirit which shows hov>?- much he enjoyed these reliefs from the ennui of every-day ]ife."— Globe.

" The Author has been careful to combine with his own observation such information as he could glean from other sources ; and his volumes contain a compilation of much that is useful, with original remarks of his own on Oriental life and manners. He possesses poetic feeling, which associates easily with scenery and manners." — Athenaeum.

" This is an account of a tour in the Levant, including Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Constantinople, and Greece. The book is remarkable for the coloring power, and the play of fancy with which its descriptions are enlivened. The writing is of a kind that indicates abilities likely to command success in the higher departments of literature. Almost every page teems with good feeling ; and although that ' catholic heartedness,' for which the Author takes credit, permits him to view Mahometan doctrines and usages with a little too much of indifferentism, yet, arriving in Palestine, he at once gives in his adherence to the ' religion of the place' with all the zeal

ADVERTISEMENT.

of a pious Christian. The book, independently of its value as an original narrative, comprises much ussful and interesting information." — Quarterly Review.

" Mr. Warburton sees w^ith the strong, clear vision vs^ith which Heaven has endowed him, but with this there are always blended recollections of the past, and something — though dashed in unconsciously — of poetic feeling He brings to his work of observation an accomplished mind, and well-trained and healthful faculties. We are proud to claim him a^ a countryman, and are content that his book shall go all the world over, that other countries may derive a just impression of our national character." — Britannia.

" Mr. Warburton's book is very lively, and is most agreeablv written." — Examiner.

" A lively description of impressions made upon a cultivated mind, during a rapid journey over countries that never cease to interest. The writer carried with him the intelligence and manners of a gentleman — the first a key to the acquisition of knowledge, and the last a means of obtaining access to the best sources of information." — Literary Gazette.

" We know no volumes furnishing purer entertainment, or better calculated to raise up vast ideas of past glories, and the present aspects of the people and lands of the most attractive region of the world." — Court Journal.

" Of recent books of Eastern Travel, Mr. Warburton's is by far the best. He writes like a poet and an artist, and there is a general feeling of bonhommie in everything he says, that makes his work truly delightful." — Weekly Chronicle.

" This is one of the most interesting and admirable publications of the day. The accomplished tourist presents us with graphic and life-like descriptions of the scenes and personages he has witnessed. His narrative is written in the most elegant and graphic style, and his reflections evince not only taste and genius, but v»"ell-informed judgment." — Chester Courant.

" We could not recommend a better book as a travelling companion than Mr. Warburton's. It is by far the most picturesque production of its class that we have for a long time seen. Admirably written as is the work, and eminently graphic as are its descriptions, it possesses a yet more exalted merit in the biblical and philosophical illustrations of the writer." — United Service Magazine.

" Mr. Warburton possesses rapidity and brilliancy of thought, and felicity of imagery. But he has qualities even rarer yet — a manliness of thought and expression, a firm adherence to whatever is high-souled and honorable, without one particle of clap-trap sentiment. Let his theme be a great one, and for it alone has he ears and eyes ; and the higher and more poetic the subject, the more elegant and spirit-stirring are his descriptions." — Dublin University Magazi?ie.

" There is a fine poetical imagination, tempered by a well trained intelligence. Thought, feeling, and passion, manifest themselves in every page " — iJinsworth's Magazine.

HOCHELAGA;

EDITED BY

ELIOT WARBURTON, E SQ/u-t.-BartUu^v^.,.

AUTHOR, OF

'THE ORESCENT AND THE CROSS."

IN TWO PARTS.

PART. I.

nV

NEW YORK: WILEY & PUTNAM, 16] BROADWAY

R. Ckaiqhead's Power Prea^, 112 Fulton Street.

cs.

EDITOR'S PREFACE.

Civilisation in its progress has ever followed the direction of light; it arose far Eastward; gradually it shone over Greece, then Rome; it culminates over Western Europe; and even now its morning light is upon America, while the land it first enlightened is sinking into darkness.

There seems to have been always an instinct in the minds of thoughtful men, that there was a great continent westward ; a New World, ready to receive the overflow of the burden of humanity that pressed upon the Old. " Atlantis " long ago expressed a consciousness of such a want, and a belief that it would be supphed. Strange to say, this prophetic feeling was responded to by the inhabitants of the unknown world : among the wild and stern Mic-Macs of the North, and the refined and gentle Yncas of the South, a presentiment of their coming fate was felt. They believed that a powerful race of men were to come " from the rising sun," to conquer and possess their lands.

The theories of old Greece and Roman Spain became stories ; stories became tradition ; tradition became faith, and Columbus assumed his mission : in him the old " Westering " instinct amounted to an inspiration ; he burst his way through the Unknown to the known ; he revealed to us a world rich in all that we required, a world abounding in capabilities, deficient only in mankind.

Vlll EDITOR S PREFACE.

Then the necessity of the Old World found relief ; Europe rushed forth to colonize — each nation according to its character — leaving for ever the stamp of that character impressed upon its colony- Spaniards, led to the New World by the lust of gold, soon sacrificed ilieir America to slavery. Englishmen, led thither by the love of liberty, consecrated their new soil to Freedom. England in the new w^orld was England still ; striving, earnest, honest, and successful. A mistake in policy changed Englishmen into Yankees, but British blood, and, for the most part, British principles, remained.

These we bequeathed to our revolted colony : retiring Northward, w^e were content to rest our Western Empire on the banks of the St. Lawrence, in the modern Canada, — the ancient Hochelaga.

It is not only where our banners wave, where our laws protect, where our national faith assures, that we are to look for " England in the New World." In the minds of our brethren of the United States, in their institutions, in their actions, in their motives — there — everywhere that our language is spoken — we can trace our own.

And such is the object of this work : its Author speaks of Canada with almost affection — of the United States with cordiality — but his chief interest throughout, is the relation that these countries bear to his own ; the influence that the latter exercises upon them.

Let not the reader suppose, however, that these volumes contain mere political essays ; the Author has rightly judged that the picture of a people is best given by traits of daily life, of the humor, the poetry, and the passioS§»that characterize them.

It is not the province of an Editor to criticize, it is not his privilege to praise, but he may be generously excused for say editor's preface. IX ing a few words in behalf of an adopted work, that has had none of the advantages of paternal care.

The Author is far away, in the lands of which these volumes treat ; but every page will tell that his heart is still at home. The name of England, her prosperity, her character for honor and righteous dealing, are dearer to the lonely traveller than his own. Here, in the calm shelter of our English homes, this lover-like feeling may seem dormant ; there is nothing to strike the fire from the flint : but, in other lands, among the jealous strictures of rival nations, the feeling is ever predominant: let it be pardoned to the Author, if it should seem too prominent. His nationality has at least never betrayed him into an ungenerous remark upon Americans ; he acknowledges their virtues, he rejoices in their prosperity, he confesses their power ; but he fearlessly laughs at their foibles, and denounces their crimes.

One word more, and the Editor leaves Hochelaga to be judged on its own merits. This work — whatever else it may be — is work : it contains no hastily-written, crude impressions, but the deeply-tested convictions of an earnestly-inquiring mind. The first few chapters may not seem to argue this ; but in books, as in conversations, our national habits of reserve seem to exercise their influence : on first introduction to the reader, a light and general tone will generally be found in English works, that only deepens into earnestness and confidence as we proceed ; we create, or hope to create, sympathies, and on these we lean more confidently as we trust that they increase.

The Editor would fain be permitted one word of apology for the office he has undertaken. He is far from presuming on the kind reception he has gratefully experienced from the public, by supposing that his name would be a recommenda-

EDITOR'S PREFACE.

tion to these volumes. But it seemed essential that an anonymous work, so full of assertions and statements, should have some name, however humble, to be responsible for their tone and truth. That responsibility the Editor undertook for his friend with confidence, before he had perused his pages ; he now maintains it with pride.

In a w^ord — as an humble friend may be the means of introducing an eminent stranger to society, the Editor takes the liberty of presenting to the public a work far worthier than his own. E. W.

105, Piccadilly, London, July, 1846.

Author's Preface

I SHALL not here enter into a list of apologetic reasons for publishing the following pages. Although I feel very strongly the necessity of laying them before my own mind, there is not the slightest use in presenting them to the reader. That I have published, is the only thing which can possibly concern him, and that probably in the minutest degree.

No one ever yet toiled through a dull work in consideration of the appeals or entreaties of an unknown author. It suffices that the book is there ; if it be liked, no apologies are due — if not, a volume of them would not make it more entertaining and instructive.

The visits to North America — ^the subject of this book — extended over somewhat less than two years. I have adopted the form of a continuous journey, to give a sort of regularity to very disjointed matter. Several of the places mentioned, I have visited on various occasions ; at a few, chiefly in Canada, I remained stationary for some time.

For this magnificent country I retain a feeling of regard and interest inferior only to that for England. I pray that I may not live to see the time, when another flag replaces the Red Cross of St. George upon the citadel of Quebec.

Some ten years ago, in a season of mutual misunderstanding, there were not a few in England and in Canada who wished to sever the connecting tie. Since then, a generous but deterxii author's preface.

mined policy, on the one hand, and a wholesome re-action on the other, have produced a salutary change ; all are now too much alive to their real interests to entertain the thought. To make the probabilities of separation even a subject of discussion, is attended with much mischief: it unsettles men's minds, renders Englishmen chary of investing their capital in Canada, and encourages the ambitious views of our annexing neighbors. It is vain to think of it : the British Government have expended of late years, very large simis in improving the communications, and strengthening the military defences of the country. They have announced their determination to incur the hazards of war before sacrificing their claim to a remote dependency of this magnificent province. Rather than surrender the North American portion of her empire, England will risk her existence as a nation. A vast majority of her subjects in this country* are ready to stand by her to the last.

It is my earnest wish to assist, as far as my feeble voice can be heard, in giving our English people at home a more intimate knowledge of our " England in the New World ;" of its climate and capabilities ; of the condition of its inhabitants ; of their social habits and amusements. Numbers of books have been already written on this country ;* mine is not to supply any want, but simply as one more — as further testimony to the interest of the subject.

With regard to the United States, I have done my utmost to attain a correct view of their general progress and the state of their people. Many of my observations may, perhaps, be distasteful to an American reader ; but this is a penalty which every stranger who ventures an honest opinion must incur. I heard a very intelligent, well-informed man, connected

* Canada.— Ed,

XIU

with a periodical of considerable reputation at New York, assert that all English writers are bought up by the Aristocracy, and, therefore, that they speak disparagingly of America and her institutions. If my friend should ever happen to peruse these volumes, he will scarcely accuse the Aristocracy of having invested much capital in suborning me.

I was astonished at the general prosperity of the Americans, their industry and skill, the vast resources of their country, and their advance in all the useful arts of life. In most, if not all, of these, they stand first among the nations of the earth. I will not say they inspired me with affection or admiration, but they did inspire me with wonder. Their Institutions appear excellently well adapted to their situation and character at present, in many essential respects ; but I consider them to be inapplicable and odious to other countries, or even to the probable future condition of their own.

They possess many great virtues, but not generally those which attract. Their well-directed reason may be far better than mere generous impulse ; but it does not touch the heart. Whatever esteem the traveller may entertain, he will scarcely bear away with him much warmth of feeling towards them as a people.

On many subjects I have obtained information from other works, which it would be tedious to enumerate here. Some American publications on Oregon have been of much assistance to me ; but I chiefly speak from w^hat I learned from people who had been resident in the country.

I am now a great distance from England. This manuscript is committed to a kind and gifted friend, who will direct its publication. For your sake and mine, kind reader, would that a portion of that friend's genius could be infused into its pages !

CONTENTS OF PART 1

PAGE

Chapter I. The Voyage . . . 1

CHAPTER n.

NEWFOUNDLAND— THE ST. LAWRENCE 11

CHAPTER HI.

QUEBEC HISTORICAL SKETCH OF CANADA ..... 22

CHAPTER IV.

QUEBEC— AUTUMN 45

CHAPTER V.

QUEBEC WINTER 64

CHAPTER VI.

CHAPTER VII.

THE CONVENT — THE MADHOUSE . . ... 89

CHAPTER VIII.

FIRE 99

CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER X.

KINGSTON — LAKE ONTARIO .117

CHAPTER XI.

TORONTO NIAGARA ........ 124

CHAPTER XII.

GEOGRAPHY OF CANADA — RESOURCES TRADE ... 135

CHAPTER XIII.

RELIGION EDUCATION THE PRESS ...... 147

CHAPTER XIV.

MANNERS— POUTICr. — DEFENCE 162

HOCHELAGA;

OR,

.CHAPTER I. ;,-/

The Voyage

About the middle of July, 1844, 1 found myself suddenly obliged to embark from Chatham, for Canada, on board an uncomfortable ship, a very unwilling passenger. In a middle aged man, of quite bachelor habits, such a voyage to a strange country, at a few hours' notice, was a most disagreeable necessity. I soon, however, made up my mind and my packages, and before the afternoon was much advanced, started from London.

It was dark when I arrived at Chatham, and went on board ; there was a whistling wind and a drizzling rain ; the decks, between the heaps of luggage and merchandize, were wet, dirty, and slippery, reflecting dismally the light of the consumptive looking lamps, cai'ried about by the condemned spirits of this floating purgatory. There was evidently a great number of passengers on board, of all sorts and conditions of men and women. Perched on a pile of baggage, were a number of soldiers going out to join their regiments in Canada, wit^|jj^ir hard-favored wives, poorly and insufficiently clad : but, dl^te the coarse and travel- worn dress and rude appearance of these poor women, I saw during the

PART I. 2 voyage many traits in theni of good and tender feeling : the anxious care of their little ones, rearing them so fondly to their doom of poverty and toil ; their kindness to each other, sharing their scanty covering and scantier meals. The wretched can feel for the wretched, the poor are rich in heart, to give.

My cabin had lately been repaired, and looked very miserable ; the seams of the deck were filled with new pitch, which stuck pertinaciously to my boots. The den had evidently just been washed, and was still damp enough to charm a hydropathist ; the port-hole window was open to air it. Threats, bribes, and entreaties, in course of time procured me the necessary portions of my luggage ; soon after, half undressed, and wholly wretched, I crept into my berth ; and, being too wise to remain awake under such very unpleasant circumstances, I in a few minutes adopted the alternative.

The crowing of an early rising cock awoke me next morning. From that time there was no hope of sleep ; it seemed the signal to let Bedlam loose. Every conceivable description of clatter followed ; scouring decks, lugging boxes, rattling chains, sailors swearing, and soldiers quarrelling.

It was scarcely dawn when I looked out of my little window ; through the grey twiliglit the shadowy forms of steeples and houses by degrees became distinct and solid. The sun, not to take us by surprise with his pleasant visit, reddened up the gilt weathercock of the church spire, then reflected himself back cheerfully from the windows, and, at length, with lavish hand, spread bright young morning over the country around. In a little time a soft breeze carried away the early mist in the direction we had to travel.

The main cabin was in the same damp, uncomfortable state as our sleeping apartments ; in the corners, boxes and baskets containing our sea stock were heaped up in such height and breadth as to make the strait between them and the table so narrow that there was barely room for me to squeeze my portly person through. An irregular sort of breakfast was on the table ; round it were seated the greater number of the cabin passengers, all evidently examining each othSBwith great attention, between the mouthfuls of toast and butter, setting down in their minds the

ENGLAND IN THE NEW WORLD.

result of their scrutiny, in prejudices for and against their neighbors.

There was a tall, thin, good-looking clergyman, who, having been ordained in England, was going to enter on his duties in Canada ; and a very shrewd-faced Irish attorney for Newfoundland, where we were to touch on the way. This part of the cargo was, however, neutralized by an honest, openhearted merchant and his good humored wife, from the same country, and with the same destination. Two gentlemen for Quebec ; a Jew for Montreal, whose face was like the reflection of a handsome countenance in a convex mirror ; a thoughtful-looking, well-bred captain ; a rattling, mischievous youth, his lieutenant ; a quiet, handsome young ensign ; and a Scotch doctor, belonging to the detachment of soldiers ; these, with a middle-aged widow and her only child, a sickly boy of ten or twelve years of age, both in deepest mourning, formed the remainder of the party. The story of this family was a sad one. The lady was a Canadian, and had married a civil oflicer in her own country. After some years, he was unfortunately promoted to a valuable appointment in China ; he immediately set out for the place of his new employment, and, on his arrival, wrote for his wife and child. They sailed, full of hope and happiness, thinking nothing of their voyage half round the world for the sake of the fond and anxious one who awaited them at its end. Nearly six months passed before their arrival. The march of the deadly pestilence was not so slow ; they found but a new made grave where they expected a happy home^ so the widow and orphan turned wearily to seek again the land of their birth, thousands of miles away.

This pale boy was all in all to her. Hers was a love of faith and hope ; she never doubted that in fulness of time he would grow to be great and good, and pay her back the debt of tenderness and care. She was the only person who did not see that the shadow of death was upon him.

I speedily became acquainted with everybody on board. Perhaps it was owing to my sleek and comfortable appearance that they concluded I was the fittes^erson to undertake the caterer's department for the cabin ; it WRied out that I had one qualification for the duty in which all the rest were deficient — that of being weak enough to take it. Every one knows the weight of obloquy which falls upon the man in office when there is no fat on the sirloin, or the legs of the fowl have the flavor and consistency of guitar strings. It is impossible to divest people of the idea that, by some inexplicable ingenuity, and for some inscrutable object of his own, he has caused these imperfections on purpose.

My prime minister was a black cook ; my kingdom, animal and vegetable; my subjects three or four gaunt sheep in the launch, and, under the forecastle, a couple of pigs, whose appearance and habits of living justified our Israelitish friend's anxiety that there should be more solidity than usual in the side dishes when a chine of pork was at the head of the table.

On the poop were several rows of coops, a sort of charitable institution for superannuated geese and ducks, and, in the list of sea stock furnished by the eminent outfitter in the west-end, was the item, six dozen chickens. These were represented by a grave assemblage of patriarchal cocks and venerable hens ; among the former I speedily recognized, by his voice, the bird whose voice in the morning, like fire to a train, had set going the din so fatal to my slumbers. I promptly ordered his execution ; he, however, amply revenged himself on those who tried to eat him the next day.

While I was thus entering on my official duties, the crew were not neglectful of their part of the business. The sails were shaken out, the anchor weighed, and the voyage commenced by running aboard of a merchant ship moored a little ahead of us. On this occasion I made a philological observation, which subsequent experience has only tended to strengthen — that the language used by sailors, under difficulties, is more worthy of imitation for terseness and vigor than for iis elegance and pl-opriety.

With a fair and gentle breeze we floated lazily down the river; the principal objects of interest which we passed were the splendid ships of war, now lying dismasted and harmless, but ready, when the Lords of the Admiralty play their Frankenstein and breathe on them the breath of life, for any mission of destruction.

We pass Sheerness, roll in the Downs, enter the Channel, think and say everything that people nitially think and say on leaving England, and go to bed.

ENGLAND IN THE NEW WORLD.

The description of one day in the voyage suits for all. A seven o'clock breakfast opened the proceedings ; at eight, a very small trumpeter sounded for the soldiers' parade ; a couple of hours' vigorous walking on the deck preceded luncheon ; then, as twelve approached, we all assembled on the poop, while the master took his observations ; then great coats and cloaks turned the coops into sofas, and reading and sunshine kept us quiet till three, when dinner — the hour of my trial, and the delight of grumblers — interrupted our literary pursuits. We established a community of books ; and, before the voyage was half over, Robinson Crusoe and Paul and Virginia were as much thumbed as if they had been fashionable novels in a circulating library.

The next re-union was of a select few on the forecastle, with cigars and pipes, a chat with the sailors, and a sharp look out for porpoise, whale, or strange ship, or any other monster of the deep. Our friend, the noisy lieutenant, used always to appear in the latter character at that period of the day. He had a strong nautical inclination, which he indulged by arraying himself in a suit of sailor's garments which would have been invaluable to Mr. T. P. Cooke : a red flannel shirt, trousers and jacket of blue pilot cloth, an oilskin hat, with a clay pipe stuck in the band ; nor was a clasp knife tied around his waist with a lanyard, forgotten, to complete his costume. Some of the others played at shuffleboard, fenced, wrestled, or exercised themselves laboriously on gymnastic poles.

It is soon time for tea, the widow doing the honors ; after that, the hot water and lemons, with little bright glass bottles, and a snappish argument between the Irish attorney and the Montreal Jew ; a quiet talk with the clergyman and the captain, a rubber of whist, a chess Doard, and words of courtesy and kindness to the widow.

Sometimes when the evening was very fine, we went on deck, and listened to wonderful narratives by the soldiers and sailors, and quaint ditties with overgrown choruses. One of the top-men had a splendid voice ; he was the heau ideal of an English seaman, active, good tempered, handsome, and full of fun : — a favorite with all.

There was among the passengers a family of three brothers and a sister, from the north of Ireland, about to settle in Canada ; they were hardy, serious, respectable people, having some little capital in money and goods, with their own strong arms and honest hearts to depend upon ; the class of people of all others the most useful in a colony. They, too, used to sing for us at times ; they knew but one kind of music, and that best suited to their powerful, but harsh and untrained voices. Many a cunning stage arrangement might have failed to give the deep effect which lay in their solemn, stern, Presbyterian hymns.

Then came another pipe, seasoned with discussion on what passed for events in the day, a little moralizing, and always a rigid examination of the conduct of that constant offender, the weather, and then we slept.

One night, when we were off the coast of Ireland, the wind freshened up, and the clouds thickened ominously. The next morning dawned upon a gale of wind ; the sea had risen a good deal, and the ship rolled sufficiently to account for the very small party at breakfast. The storm was against us, blowing with increasing violence that day and night, and the next day. Nearly all the passengers were sick, and the sailors were doing their work in a quiet, steady way, that showed they were in earnest.

At about five in the afternoon, the clouds seemed to have been all blown up together into one dense mass of dark and threatening gloom, and, as if for miles around the wind had focussed to one spot, it burst upon the ship. The masts bent slowly down as she rose upon the wave, and the receding spray foamed among the spars. They must shorten sail ; it seems madness to ascend the straining ropes, but no one hesitates : there is a moment's lull in the trough of the sea ; some of the sailors are up already ; our favorite, the top-man, is first, busy with the reef of the main-topsail. The ship rises on the swell, and the storm roars through the shrouds again : the sheets snap like a thread ; light as a cloud the canvass flies to leeward ; a man is entangled in its ropes, borne away upon the wind ; — the mist closes over him — he is seen no more.