Royalty in the New world; or, The Prince of Wales in America

Front matter

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UNITED STATES OP AMERICA.!

En^'^tjyJ.CBuOT'?

Chapter II

Enthusiastic Reception at St. John's— Processions, Levees, Presentations, Illuminations, Addresses, and Universal Rejoicings — Royalty and Loyalty Tete-a-t6te— Scenes and Incidents During the Prince's Stay — The Departure for Halifax — The Halt at Sidney — A Unique Celebration, 17

Chapter III

Arrival at Halifax — Grand Military and Civic Display — The Prince Welcomed by the Indians, 34

CHAPTER lY.

The Feeling of the People in Regard to the Visit of the Prince — His Social Powers and Love of the Humorous — The Royal Quarters on Board the Hero — His Acquaintance with Foreign Languages — Personnel of his Suite — His Arrival and Enthusiastic Reception by the People — A Visit to the Indians, 47

CHAPTER Y.

The River St. John — Variety and Beauty of its Scenery — The Reception at Fredericton — Enthusiasm and Loyal Demonstrations of the People there — Visit to the Cathedral — Sermon by the Bishop — Visit to the Indian Encampment — Opening of a New Park under the Auspices of the Prince — Excessive Heat of the Day — Ball in the Evening — A young Lady throws the Prince a Bouquet, which he stoops to pick up — Race on the River between Indian Canoes— How the Prince received the Intelligence of his Sister's Accouchement, etc., 55

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

General Holiday and Rejoicing of the People — Appearance of the City of St. John's after the Prince's Departure— Dinner to the Representatives of the Press — From St. John's to Shediac — View of Prince Edward's Island— Facts Concerning the Island — The Way in which it was Discovered — Scenes on a crowded Steamboat — Scarcity of Hotel Accommodation — Grand Illumination, etc., 60

CHAPTER VII.

Incidents on a Journey from Shediac — Crowded State of the Steamers— Appearance of Gaspe — Picturesque Scenery on the Rivers — The Ships of the Royal Squadron — Address from the People of Gaspe — Dispatches for the young Prince from his Father, Mother, and the Princess of Prussia, etc., etc., 67

CHAPTER VIII.

Excurfcion to meet the Prince, 70

CHAPTER IX.

Pictorial Glimpses of the Prince's Travels — Movements on the River Saguenay — The Prince as a Fisherman — The Scenery on the St. Lawrence — The Prince's Reception Room — View of the Citadel — Grand Show of Regulars and Volunteer Troops — Enthusiasm on the Approach of the Hero — Hearty Welcome to the young Prince — Exciting Scenes on the Landing of the Prince — Immense Concourse of People — Order of the Procession — Grand Illuminations, etc., etc., 76

CHAPTER X.

Proposed Federation of the Province, with the Prince of Wales as Viceroy — The Prince at Church — His Visit to the Falls of the Chaudiere — Description of the Falls, etc., etc., 83

CHAPTER XI.

Closing Scenes in Quebec, 87

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XII.

The first day ia Montreal, 91

CHAPTER XIII.

The Cricket-Ground — Indian Games and Dances — The Levee and the Citizens' Ball — The Prince Encircled by Ropes — The Concert — Cornwall— In tha Rapids — Lachine — The Military Review and Return — Ottawa, etc., 97

CHAPTER XIV.

Enthusiasm and Warmth of the People — Torch-light and Firemen's Processions, and Departure of the Prince — The Scenery among the Thousand Isles— The Trip from Brockville — Arrival at Kingston — the Preparations for the Reception — The Disappointment of the Multitude, and the Obstinacy of the Orangemen, etc., 110

CHAPTER XV.

The Landing at Toronto— Fifty Thousand Spectators— Four Thousand Children in Chorus — The Procession — Decorations on the Route — An Orange Arch — The Royal Party Annoyed — The Mayor in Hot Water— Illuminations— Addresses— The Prince Playing at Rackets- Reception at Osgoode Hall — The Prince enrolled as a Barrister — The Ball — Beautiful Appearance of the Ball-room — Another Orange Outrage — Departure for CoUingwood, et^., etc., 120

CHAPTER XVI.

The London of America— Its Features and its Differences— Sarnia — The Indians and their Eloquence — Presentation of Medals — The Prince's Journey to Niagara — Fort Erie — Arrival at Niagara — Illumination of the Falls, etc., etc., 137

CHAPTER XVIL

The Falls and the Prince of Wales— Farini crossing Niagara — Blondin and his Exploits — Description of his Performances — Crossing on Stilts — The Prince in the Spray — Illumination of the Falls— The Prince in the United States, etc., 145

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure from Niagara Falls— Brock's Monument and its Corner-Stone — A Magnificent View — St. Catharine's and the Prince's Reception there— Grimsby — Hamilton — Enthusiasm of the Populace — Description of the City, etc., 153

CHAPTER XIX.

The Grandeur of the Prince's Reception at Detroit— Immense Turn-out of the Populace— The Coup d'Etat of the Prince^to reach the Russell House — His Royal Highness takes a Drive through Detroit— His Departure for Chicago— Demonstrations of Welcome — Immense Turn-out of the Chicagoans — The Prince makes his Appearance oh the Balcony of the Richmond House — Enthusiastic Cheers of Welcome by the Populace — The Royal Party proceed on a Prairie Shooting Excursion, 161

CHAPTER XX.

Trip from Dwight to St. Louis— Origin of St. Louis— Its Early History and Progress — Presents from His Royal Highness — The Journey to Cincinnati, 170

CHAPTER XXL

From Pittsburg to Harrisburg — Over the Mountains — Fast Traveling of the Prince — A Mistake— His Royal Highness in Harrisburg— The Ladies and their Affections — The Arrival in Baltimore —The Enthusiasm — The Reception in Washington — Republican Simplicity, etc., 179

CHAPTER XXH.

The Prince's Visit to Mount Vernon — The Trip of the Royal Party and Hosts down the Potomac — Arrival at Mount Vernon — The Prince evinces a deep Interest in the History of Washington—He Plants a Tree in Commemoration of his Visit — He Pockets some Horse-Chestnuts, which he intends to Plant in Windsor Park— The Return Trip— The Quarter-Deck of the Revenue Cutter Devoted to the Disciples of Terpsichore — The Prince at Richmond, etc., 189

, CONTENTS. Xi

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Departure from Baltimore, and Arrival at Philadelphia — Enthusiasm of the People — Quarters of the Prince at the Continental — He occupies the same Rooms as did the Japanese Princes — Incidents, etc., '. 196

CHAPTER XXIY.

New York's Glorious Welcome to the Prince— A Million ou Broadway and Fifth Avenue— Splendid Military Spectacle— The Review on the Battery and in the Park— Five Miles of Human Beings— Housetops, Brick Piles, Lamp-Posts, Windows, Steps, Awning-Posts, Doorways, Carriages, Boxes, Stages, Carts, Iron Railings, and Trees, from the Battery to Madison Square, Covered with Men, Women, and Children— The Diamond Ball— Grand Procession of Firemen, etc., etc., 203

CHAPTER XXV.

The Run up the River to see the Prince— The Trip of the Harriet Lane— Excitement of the Ladies— The Review at West Point, 214

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Departure from Albany — Progress en route— The Grand Reception at Boston— An Immense Crowd— The Military Display—The Illuminated Parade, etc., 220

CHAPTER XXYII.

The Review— The Musical Festival— The Grand Ball— The Visit to Harvard College and Bunker Hill— The Departure for Portland—The Embarkation— The last Farewell to America, 226

Summary of the Prince's Todr, 248

The Historical Princes of Wales, 265

The Royal Party, 272

XU CONTENTS.

Poetry. — *' Welcome, Laddie, for your Mither's sake,'^ 280

" At the Grave of Washington," 280

« Paddy's Ode to the Prince," 283

" The New York Ball to the Prince, or the Belles he danced with," 284

ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD;

OR,

®l)e prince of tUales in :3lmerica

Chapter I. Introductory

I AM happy to say that this is not a Blue Book, unless it happens to be so in the color of the binding. Yet it contains a faithful record of the progress of a great historical event from its inception to its termination, and to myself, at least, it will always be a pleasant souvenir.

When I am dead and gone, as people say in England, the visit of the Prince of Waleawill be recalled in the midst of pleasant associations by hundreds of thousands who are now children, and whose present boast is tliat they have seen him ; and when they too have gone the way of all flesh their children and their children's children will read in the history of our time the chronicle of this royal visit, and it will be equally remembered in England and America, and tend for ages to preserve and strengthen that friendship which ought^ always to subsist between the English and Americans, who are allied, not only by ties of interest, but by an affinity of race and language, which latter is a natural bond that can never be entirely broken, 1

OR,

and it is to be lioped that tlie day will never come when it will be found weaker than we find it now.

I employed nearly the same words in a newspaper leader before the advent of His Royal Highness in America, and I think they met with a hearty response in every Anglo-Saxon breast on both sides df the Atlantic. They were quoted by the press in America, and echoed in England by the press there.

I only mention this to show the feeling wliich actuated me in narrating the events relating to the royal tour, of which I was an eye-witness from the first landing of His Royal Hijrhnn.^s on the continent till his final departure from Portland.

I left New York as early as the 10th of July for Montreal, and afterwards visited Quebec, Ottowa, Toronto, and other Canadian towns, preparatory to proceeding to Halifax; and, perhaps, if I afi*ord a few glimpses of places by the way, I may not be considered wearisome. Therefore, to begin. I left New York by the seven A.M. train for Troy, and had a delightful view of the glorious Hudson by the way. From Troy, where the passengers bound north changed cars, 1 was carried by that steam-horse, the locomotive, over a series of beautiful landscapes, till the sonorous voice of the conductor announced that Rutland was reached. There I succeeded in possessing myself of a sandwich and cup of cofi*ee, upon which I dined, there being neither time nor opportunity for a more ample feast. But half a loaf is better than no bread to a hungry man, especially to one who had traveled two hundred and thirty-five miles without a previous indulgence in the customary meal of breakfast. From Rutland, till we sighted on the left the mirror-like waters of Lake Champlain, the scenery on either hand was of the most varied and fascinating character. I could describe it at a lengtli which would satisfy the most exacting landscape painter in the world, but all the world is not made up of landscape painters, and it is possible that some of my readers would find such scrupulous detail the reverse of amusing ; and as I wish my books to be of the utile et duke class, I am desirous of preserving that '" happy medium" of which I have heard so much in theory but seen so little in practice. It is, therefore, enough that I say the scenery was gladdening to the eye ; that the sun brightened the hills, and here and there threw a shadow over the valleys ; that the eye searched in vain for that monotony of feature which often characterizes North American landscapes, and that every living thing, from the young colt, that cantered across the grass land at our approach, to the dallying, bright-winged butterfly, and from the monarch of the primeval forest to the cultured rose, seemed to disport in the gladness of its existence.

Such glorious weather as thus animated the earth with its vivifying effulgence has a peculiarly inspiring effect upon my mind, when I am enabled to calmly survey nature in her placid beauty aloof from the busy haunts of men ; but there is no beauty without its alloy, and in my case the alloy was chiefly made up of dust and smoke — two things inseparable from railway traveling, at least in the New World.

Late in the afternoon we crossed a couple of bridges, from which the passengers looked down into a deep and rocky gorge, at the bottom of which a stream of water coiled snake-like and stealthily, giving to the chasm an appearance of solemn, gloomy wildness, as impressive as some of the scenes pictured in the sombre pages of Dante.

The train passed slowly over the bridges, and this mournful pace gave time for reflection. Twilight soon made the distant hills grow dim, and a few broad streaks of coloring above the western horizon alone relieved the duskiness that harbingered the night.

Night had actually begun when we crossed the two-mile bridge on piles across Masisco Bay. A few min-

OR,

utes afterwards we crossed another of the same kind, and nearly as long, spanning Lake Champlain at Eouse's Point, wlie're the British Custom-house officer was obliging enough to leave my baggage behind, since whioh time I have been under the necessity of doing without it.

By this time the weather had changed ; a heavy shower of rain came pattering against the car windows, and the darkness grew deeper. A Dutchman in the traia, of tlie slop-built aspect, made himself ridiculous about this time by talking, in the most ungrammatical and unintelligible English imaginable, upon the slavery question.

A prisoner in handcuffs, arrested on a charge of murder, was one of our passengers all the way ; so that our society, it will be seen, was of an order more than usually varied ; but variety is not always charming, although that which has almost become a proverb tells us it is so. We must not, however, believe all that we hear, and even proverbs lie.

The train reached the banks of the St. Lawrence at a quarter to eleven, when we emerged from the cars into the now cold and damp night, the darkness of which was unrelieved by a star or moonbeam, and went on board the ferry steamer, which straightway ploughed its way across the black and silent tide to the wharf at Montreal — the Hochelaga of the red Indian, the Ville Marie of the French.

Five years ago I set my foot on its island shore, and did the " mountain" in a caleche, and paced the solemn aisles of the Cathedral in the Place des Amies. Montreal is the city of red-tiled and tinned roofs, and a birds-eye view of it is consequently not unpicturesque. It is more than half French, and this French element seems ineradicable. When you speak to a cabman he answers in a French patois, or with an accent which tells you that French is the mother tongue ; as you pass a group of children you hear them chattering

French ; whenever you look up at the name of a street painted on the walls, the chances are twenty to one that it is French also ; you meet Catholic priests in their vestments, with their heads covered with ordinary black silk hats ; you read French names over the shops, and at the Custom-house and Citv Hall you find the names of the Departments painted on the doors in both languages ; you go into your hotel and take up an entirely French newspaper, and an entirely French play-bill from a French theatre; in fact, wherever you turn, you are constantly reminded that Montreal was once a colony of France, and the features of the people, as well as of the city, confirm you in the impression.

On the following morning I took a drive through the city, the public buildings of which are, almost without exception, built of gray limestone of the granite aspect.

For the first time I now saw the completed great two-mile tubular bridge of the Grand Trunk Railway Company across the St. Lawrence. When I visited Montreal in 1855, it was not a bridge, but a mere skeleton. I therefore felt a peculiar in'terest in glancing over its immense span, which is supported by twenty-four piers, standing 242 feet apart, excepting the centre span, which is 339 feet, each pier beinocalculated to resist the force of 70,000 tons of ice a"? one time. Resting on these piers, and extending from abutment to abutment, is the bridge, consisting of a hollow iron tube, twenty-two feet high and sixteen feet wide. As a work of human ingenuity and industry, it is worthy to rank with the seven wonders of the world, and is decidedly one of the greatest works of engineering art in, not only America, but the two hemispheres.

I left Montreal by the four P.M. train for Quebec on the day following my arrival, and for the first time in my life passed througli the bridge, which is pleasantly lighted from above by openings near the roof. The weather at this time was cold and showery, and as the evening advanced it became so chilly that a fire was lighted in the car stove. Only one first-class car was attached to the train ; there was another next the tender, but it was second class, and the warmth which this wood fire emitted was very acceptable. The scenery along the road was flat and monotonous. Charred stumps of trees, and here and there a burning log, lined the wayside, which showed that those concerned were anxious to clear the land of its surplusage of timber at the earliest opportunity. A few wooden villages, and occasionally the solitary tenement of some lonely wood-cutter, enamored, perhaps, but I think it doubtful, of a lodge in the wilderness, alone gave evidence of the presence of man in this thinly peopled district.

At lialf-past nine we reached the terminus of the line at Point Levy, opposite the quaint old garrisoned city of Quebec. We emerged from the car shivering with the cold, and locomoted our way on board the ferry steamer, which conveyed us across the dark river, at this point about a mile wide, to the " Lower Town,'' a quarter inhabited chiefly by the French, or rather the descendants of the French, and about the most gloomy, unwholesome, and dirty-looking spot in all Canada. This region, which has a very antiquated appearance, is built under the cliffs, and occupies a site so low that the very wharves projecting into the river are more elevated than it. In the main street is to be seen the oldest church in the colony. It is a crumbling vestige of by-gone ages, and the plaster on its outer walls has been yellowed by the sun and rains of centuries. It reminded me strongly of the Catholic churches at Lima, and its aspect is, so far. South American.

I entered the omnibus of Russell's Hotel, and after ascending several precipitous streets we passed through the Prescott Gate, so celebrated in the history of Quebec, to which I shall hereafter make allusion, and soon reached our destination, for which I was nothing less than thankful, the cold being of raw Octoberian severity, and owing to the loss of my baggage I had been unable to effect a suitable change of clothing.

Those to whom the sight of fortifications is refreshing are likely to derive much pleasure from a visit to the gray old city of Quebec — the Gibraltar of the New World. All approaches to the city, both by land and water, are commanded by formidaJale batteries pointing huge black cannon, which meet you with open mouth at every turning in certain neighborhoods. The circuit of the fortitications inclosing the Upper Town is two miles and tliree quarters, and the total circumference outside the ditches and space reserved by government on which no house is allowed to be built, on the west side, is nearly three miles. The fortifications consist of bastions connected by lofty curtains of solid masonry, and ramparts from twenty-five to thirty-five feet high, and of an almost equal thickness, bristling with the before mentioned cannon, and diversified with round towers, loopliole walls, and massive gates, which occur at regular distances. On the summit of the ramparts, from Cape Diamond to the Artillery Barracks, is a broad, covered walk, commanding a beautiful view of the country westward. This passes over the top of St. John's and St. Louis' Gates, where a sergeant's guard is stationed, and from which, at sunset, popular report informs me, a splendid view is obtainable ; and I saw no reason to discredit popular report, although it is by no means always on the side of truth. I was not there at that delightful hour when nature, as it were, sinks to rest, and the sun to illuminate the other hemisphere. Phoebus is a hard-working fellow, his task is never ending and he keeps no holiday ; yet he always goes his rounds, casting that pleasant, broad smile of his over the earth, as if he never knew what it was to Iodic on the dark side of life. Happy, bright-faced luminary, whom nations have worshiped through all time as the king of the universe ! Would that I were the sun I

If I had been above St. John's Gate at the hour named, just preceding that most dear to lovers, and when I sometimes find myself singing " Come into the garden, Maud," as if I really had a Maud to sing to, I should likely have taken in all the features of the landscape to my entire satisfaction. I should have seen the river St. Charles in the fleeting effulgence, either reposing with mirror-like placidity, or waving like a rye-field, according to the state of the wind ; should have gazed with lingering delight and the enthusiasm of a painter upon the last touclies of liglit and coloring resting on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg, and have watched them as they faded away beyond the mountains of Bonhomme and Tsounonthuan, which rear their summits dimly in the distance ; while at one sweep of the eye I should have embraced every detail of the prospect, far and near, with all its picturesque variations of light and shade. But it is not yet too late, and some fine day at sunset I shall be a spectator of the scene Avhich I have faintly traced. My eye never wearies of, but is ever eager for, beautiful sunsets and beautiful scenery, although I have seen thousands of the most splendid natural views in the world, for I have been a wanderer in my day, and there are but few climes in whicli 1 have not set my foot.

The city being defended on its land side by ramparts, is elsewhere protected by a lofty wall and parapet, based on a high natural cliff, which no troops in the world could scale. The Upper Town is founded on a rock — a very sure foundation, too, according to all authorities, from the parable downward — while the Lower Town is a wretched, populous place, built under this rock, facing the St. Lawrence. The streets leading from the Lower to the Upper Town are, as a natural consequence, very steep, and they are also very tortuous and narrow. One of these streets is named the Mountain, and the name conveys a very accurate idea of the sort of thoroughfare it is. The military history of Quebec possesses a world-wide interest, for on its fields and around its battlements some of the most courageous exploits ever attempted have taken place. Wolfe of England, Montcalm of France, and Montgomery of America died there, and their names are associated with a lasting glory in the chronicles of warfare. On the next morning I hired a wagon, as the carriages are called here, and drove to the celebrated Plains of Abraham, where General Wolfe fought and died in the remarkable battle against the French troops under Montcalm.

I drove through the St. Louis Gate, where every angle was commanded by cannon, and, leaving the citadel on the left, passed between martello-towers guarding the road, and soon afterwards reached the toll-gate at the entrance to the Plains, where ninepence of British money was demanded. This is a tax I have never paid with pleasure, and on the present occasion I did not pay it at all. I left the wagon standing, and, passing through a rude opening like a gateway, where stood a wooden shanty, which, so far as its appearance was concerned, might have been uninhabited, I found myself in one of the open and grassy fields which constitute the Plains of Abraham, and straight before me, within a small paling inclosure, stood a column surmounted with a helmet and sword, and bearing on its base the inscription, "Here died Wolfe, victorious."

Ascending an eminence a little further on, where, surrounded by a fence, can be traced the redoubt where Wolfe received the fatal wound, and from which he was carried to the spot now occupied by the column, I had a magnificent view of the surroundingcountry for many miles, including the cove, a little on the Montreal side of Quebec, where Wolfe landed his forces, and which has since borne his name.

According to history, which I may remark is often a gigantic lie, but not always, the English right nearly faced this redoubt, and on this position the French left rested. The French came on the Plains from tlie right on their way from Beauport, and not from Quebec, and after their defeat retreated down the heights by which they had ascended ; they were thus entirely cut off from the city.

On my return to the liighway, I saw within an in closure the stone well from which the water that moist ened the lips of the dying Wolfe was procured, and which is now looked upon by many as little less than holy.

Beyond this there is a beautiful drive as far ds Marchmont, where the river widens into lake-like proportions, and exhibits a fair sprinkling of ships lying at anchor, and smaller vessels and occasionally a steamer coursing up and down, while down only immense rafts of timber may be seen to float, guided by men who, with their families and chattels, have traveled on them from the far interior of the lumber country.

Mount Hermon Cemetery lies in this direction, at a distance of about three miles from Quebec. It is thirty-two acres in extent, and slopes with picturesque irregularity down a cliff overhanging the St. Lawrence.

On my way back I visited the Citadel, which is imposing enough without, and, with its flag-staff tower, has a striking military appearance, but within presents but little to arrest attention. I found myself in a large open space, with barracks and store-houses built round it that had a worn and desolate look. I had long heard of the beautiful view attainable from the tower of this Citadel, which, from its elevation of three hundred and sixty feet above the river, set before the lingering eye a lovely panorama of the surrounding scenery, embracing mountains, valleys, and plains, and the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles. I, therefore, eagerly made the ascent, and well was I rewarded. The description would be monotonous, but the prospect was varied and refreshing, and I felt myself well rewarded for my trouble. I have alluded to the French features of Montreal ; but Quebec is even more French than the City of the Island. Thousands of the population speak a French patois, and only a few words of broken English. Many of the streets have French names, and the churches of the Roman Catholics preponderate far over those of the Protestants. The former are a strong party in Lower Canada, seeing that they constitute four fifths of the entire population, and nearly all converse as often in French as in English, so that an affinity of language between the English and the bulk of the Lower Canadians can hardly be said to exist.

After returning to the city I entered the Cathedral, whose tall, tin-covered spires had attracted my attention. The interior was painted white, and over the grand altar a gilded canopy rose nearly as high as the arched roof, while round the walls were several chapels, dedicated to various saints. But the charm of the whole was by no means equal to the dim old mouldering churches of the faith in the more balmy regions of South America. Even the few kneeling figures that I saw seemed more formal, yet less fervent in their devotions than those with whose precincts I had made myself familiar on the shores of the Pacific, and there was less solemnity of aspect about the whole than belonged — yea, still belongs— to the grand old tabernacle relics of the vice-regal period of Peru — the monuments of splendid riiin in which the maiden kneels to her invisible father confessor, and the service of the piass is still said.

At eleven Q'clock I drove out to the Falls of Montmorenci, which are situated at a distance of about seven miles from Quebec. The journey thither I performed in a caleche, drawn by a stout Canadian horse. After passing through a succession of narrow and declivitous streets, we emerged through a dilapidated gateway into the suburb of San Roque, and then crossed a long wooden bridge spanning the St. Charles River. The houses at the road-side were all painted white, and had a very quaint appearance. Fine gardens were attached to each, and in some of these women, dressed in short black frocks, white bodices, and broad-brimmed straw hats, were engaged in horticultural operations.

On arriving in the vicinity of the Montmorenci rivulet or torrent, which I found rushing through a rocky gorge, and just before flinging itself over a precipice two hundred and fifty feet deep — greater even than that of Niagara — so constituting the Falls, I accepted the services of a juvenile individual who exhibited great anxiety to " show" me the cataract. I now alighted from the caleche and commenced the descent over an exceedingly rugged and shelving path as far as a small ledge of rock just overhanging the Falls. After thus looking down at the tumbling waters, I descended considerably further and looked up at them. From this position I had a splendid view. The water fell in an unbroken sheet, into an oblong recess, the sides of which were almost perpendicular, and opening into the St. Lawrence, whose banks were here high, but gradually inclining. The eft'ect of the neighboring scenery was somewhat spoiled by the too close proximity of some saw-mills, driven by water-power, on the banks of a small stream, diverted from the main channel of the Montmorenci. The spot last alluded to is remarkable for the formation of an ice cone, caused by the freezing of the spray. But as there now remained no traces of the last year's glacier, I was unable to imagine myself in Switzerland.