Queen Charlotte Islands; a narrative of discovery and adventure in the north Pacific

Front matter

QUEEN CHABLOTTE ISLANDS.

A NARRATIVE OF

DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE

Chapter I

PAGE ACROSS LAKE ONTARIO — INTO THE " STATES" — PINE AND COAL

LAND — THE " CITY OP ROME" — DOWN THE HUDSON RIVER —

" PATRICK" ON HIS TRAVELS — THE " EMPIRE CITY " 1

Chapter II

BOUND POR " ASPINWALL" — AMERICAN COASTING- — THE GULP STREAM — SAN SALVADOR — MARIGUANA — THE " QUEEN OF THE ANTILLES " — JAMAICA — THE " WINDWARD PASSAGE " — ACROSS THE CARIBBEAN SEA — PHOSPHORESCENT WATERS . . .13

Chapter III

ASPINWALL OR COLON? — AT COLON— ACROSS THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA — FIRST VIEW OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN — LAUNCHED ON THE PACIFIC FOR SAN FRANCISCO — THE MEXICAN COAST, WEST- WARD — ACAPULCO — MANZANILLA BAY — CALIFORNIA ... 25

CHAPTER VI.

ANTECEDENTS OF CALIFORNIA — ORIGIN OF SAN FRANCISCO — INTO FRISCO BY THE "GOLDEN GATE"— STREET-RUFFIANISM — FIRE- BRIGADES IN PORTSMOUTH SQUARE — VIEW OP THE CITY FROM TELEGRAPH HILL — PUBLIC RESORTS — THE " CHINA TOWN " — FUTURE OF SAN FRANCISCO 40

Xll CONTENTS.

Chapter V. Page

BOUND FOR VANCOUVER ISLAND — DISCOMFORT OF THE VOYAGE — FIRST

SIGHT OF VANCOUVER — HARBOURS OF VANCOUVER — ESQUIMALT —

# VICTORIA — THREE MONTHS IN THE CASCADE AND BLUE MOUNTAINS

— COPPER ON QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS— FORMATION OF THE

QUEEN CHARLOTTE MINING COMPANY— CHIEF KITGUEN, OR KLUE . 53

. CHAPTER VI.

BOUND FOR QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS — THE "OUTSIDE PASSAGE" — KITGUEN COAST OF VANCOUVER, WESTWARD — WHALES — SUN- DOWN, AND THE NORTH PACIFIC WATERS — INDIAN WOMEN —

SPOONDRIFT QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS SIGHTED — CAPE ST.

JAMES — WHALES AND PORPOISES — HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY . . 70

Chapter VII

OFF SKINCUTTLE ISLAND — SITUATION OF THE ISLETS — FIRST LOOK- ROUND — FIRST RESIDENT ENGLISHMAN ON QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS — NOMENCLATURE OF THE GROUP — SITE TO ENCAMP — RATE OF WAGES TO WORKMEN — CARIBOO — BEARS AND EAGLES — MOUNTAIN GOATS 91

Chapter VIII

SHORT EXCURSION — LONG EXCURSION — LASKEEK HARBOUR — PAINTED INDIANS — "PROTECTION NOTE" — CHIEF SKIDDAN HIS FRAME- HOUSE — CUM-SHE-WAS HARBOUR KLUE's HOUSE — SLEEPING

UNDER SCALPS— SEA-BATH— THE ISLANDERS NO SWIMMERS— BACK

TO SKINCUTTLE 103

Chapter IX

COPPER — NEW SHAFT— ATTACK BY INDIANS — RUSHING IN AMONGST THEM — THE BONE OF CONTENTION — CHIEF SKID-A-GA-TEES — THE " KECKWALLY TYHEE " — SKID -A- GA- TEES DRAWS OFF — THE CUM- SHE-WAS — A CRISIS— REMOVAL TO BURNABY ISLAND — THE RAFT 118

CHAPTEll X.

MISS SKID-A-GA-TEES AND HER PAPA — QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDERS FAR IN ADVANCE OF MR. DARWIN — SKID-A-GA-TEES AGAIN — PRO- PITIATORY SACRIFICE TO HIM — ETERNAL FRIENDSHIP — WINTER IN CAMP — STORIES BY THE CAMP FIRESIDE — NORTH LATITUDE STORMS — TOWARDS THE INTERIOR — PANCAKES .... 134

CONTENTS. Xlll

CHAPTER XL

PAGE PLOTTING INDIANS — THE GUNBOAT " HECATE " —SHELLING OPINIONS

ON THE " SMOKE-SHIP" — KLTJE ON BOARD THE " HECATE" — THE "REBECCA HEAVES IN SIGHT — FIRING SKINCUTTLE — PROSPECT- ING — COPPER-MINE ON BURNABY ISLAND — BACK TO VICTORIA BY THE " OUTSIDE PASSAGE" — REPORT TO THE MINING COMPANY . 151

CHAPTER XII.

BOUND FOR QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS AGAIN — UP THE " INSIDE PASSAGE" IN THE " LEONIDE" — THE GULP OP GEORGIA — COAST ON EITHER SIDE — RUN AGROUND — THE NORTH AND SOUTH BEN- TIN CK ARMS — NEW ABERDEEN — BELLA- COOLA RIVER — TAYLOR'S RANCHE — GETTING OUT TO SEA — THE BELLA-BELLAS — ACROSS TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE 167

CHAPTER XIII.

WHERE ARE WE? — STORMS — WORKMEN, IN BRITISH COLUMBIA — POWERLESSNESS OF A LEADER BEYOND THE HAUNTS OF CIVILIZED LIFE — MUTINY TO WORK AGAIN — MINING OPERATIONS — CHRIST- MAS DAY AT THE LOG-HOUSE — KLTJE AND HIS CHIEFS — HOW TO CIVILIZE INDIANS ISO

CHAPTER XIV.

SEABOARD OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS — STORM-TOSSED SEAS — ABORTIVE BEAR-HUNT — INDIANS NEITHER BRAVE MEN NOR CRACK SHOTS — HUNTING BEARS — STORMY PETRELS — TIDE-POLE — AN AQUATIC SKEDADDLE — RIFLE-PRACTICE ON BURNABY ISLAND — TWO STUNNING STORMS 209

CHAPTER XV.

SUMMER-LIKE WEATHER — "TRIBUTE AND TUT-WORK" — RIVAL TRIBES — RUNNING SHORT OF PROVISIONS — THE " NANAIMO PACKET" ARRIVES — MISTAKE ABOUT STORES — KLUE AND HIS TRIBE HAVE A DEBAUCH — WICKEDNESS AND SHORTSIGHTEDNESS OF SUPPLYING THE INDIANS WITH WHISKY — REMEDY FOR THE EVIL — MINING PROGRESS — THE SK1D-A-GATES — MINERAL DEPOSITS OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS 226

XIV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

PAGE

DISORGANIZATION — IMPOSSIBILITY OF CONTROLLING THE MEN — A SALIENT EXAMPLE — GLARING THEFTS BY INDIANS — CONSULTATION WITH KLUE AND SKID-A-GA-TEES — DETERMINATION TO RETURN TO VICTORIA — DIFFICULTY OF THE VOYAGE — LAST CHANCE TO THE MEN— HARRIET HARBOUR .244

CHAPTER XVII.

PARLEY WITH THE MEN — FAREWELL TO THE BEAUTIFUL ISLES — KLUE'S GRAND CANOE — ACROSS TO THE MAINLAND — PARTING COMPANY — MISSING THE WAY— SIX DAYS IN THE RAIN — THE SKID-A-GATES WELCOMED BACK 2G5

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE RUPERT INDIANS — FRAY WITH THE ACOLTAS— OVER THE TIDAL WAVE — NANAIMO COAL-MINES — THE COWITCHENS — A GENERAL BATHE AND DRESS-UP — ARRIVAL AT VICTORIA .... 283

CHAPTER XIX.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS — CLIMATE — HARBOURS — INLAND WATERS — ROCKS — LAND — TREES — FRUITS— VEGETABLES — FISH— GAME — FUR — NATIVE TRIBES — THE MEN — THE WOMEN — COLOUR — FOOD — MEDICINE — GAMBLING — RELIGION — FEASTS — MUSIC — CAPABILI- TIES AND PROSPECTS OF THE ISLANDS 299

CHAPTER XX.

VIEW OF VICTORIA — HOMEWARD-BOUND— SAN FRANCISCO — COPPERO- POLIS — STOCKTON — THE "KING OF TREES 5 ' — MANZANILLA — ARISTOCRATIC THIEVES — MEXICAN LIFE — ACAPULCO — BLACK SWIMMING-BOYS — TEMPERATURE — SUNSETS — TAIL OF A HURRI- CANE — PANAMA CITY — BACK ACROSS THE ISTHMUS — FROM COLON TO NEW YORK — CANADIAN HEAD- QUARTERS — ON THE WAY TO ENGLAND 326

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

I. Harriet Harbour, Queen Charlotte Islands Frontispiece.

II. Log-house, Burnaby Island Vignette.

III. Map of Queen Charlotte Islands Page 95

IY. An Indian Raid „ *2i / V>T

V. Map of Queen Charlotte Copper-mines . . . „ 163

VI. Oyer the Tidal Wave „ 291

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

Chapter I

ACROSS LAKE ONTARIO — INTO THE " STATES" — PINE AND COAL LAND— THE " CITY OP ROME" — DOWN THE HUDSON RIVER — " PATRICK" ON HIS TRAVELS — THE "EMPIRE CITY."

I had been engaged for some twenty months up and down Canada West, now the province of Ontario, m a successful course of " prospecting," and in other work bearing on mines, when I was induced to undertake a journey and voyage to the British possessions which lie along the western seaboard of the North American continent. Encouraging information having reached me, I wished to extend the sphere of my surveying and mining operations.

It was in the month of April, 1862, that I set out upon my long and toilsome journey, my startingpoint being Kingston, on the northern shore of Lake Ontario.

In the summer and autumn it is customary to cross the Canadian lakes by steamboat. But, at that

B season, the ice still remained sufficiently in possession to render travelling by ice-stage a necessity of the journey, despite the danger resulting from the thinness of the top-ice on the upper lakes in April.

Shortly after midday of the 2nd, the guard or conductor cried — " All aboard for Cape Vincent!" with a sharp nasal twang, and, in a few minutes, the passengers had taken their seats inside the ice-stage, which was advertised to get to the American side of the lake in precise time to catch the " cars " due in New York the same evening.

The ice-stage is a square-built conveyance, in form resembling a colossal packing-box, only that the sides are composed of wind and waterproof curtains, instead of wood-work. It slides over the ice upon wooden runners shod with steel.

Our team consisted of two diminutive horses. These belonged to the Lower Canadian breed, and were wretched objects to look at; for all which, they really could do a deal of work, and tripped along before us with a lightsome and easy step.

Already the snow, though three feet deep, was giving signs of approaching dissolution under solar influence, whilst the sun itself began to shine out brilliantly, and the April air to feel mild and pleasant,

ACROSS LAKE ONTARIO. 6

as if prognosticating a lovely springtide. Thereupon, our driver thought tit slightly to redeem his native surliness by cracking his whip in a cheery manner; and, as the Canadian shore receded, I tried to console myself for the many dear friends left behind by observing that the first prospects of my journey were at least not dispiriting.

Ere long, however, this source of consolation proved to be somewhat premature. The driver was an American, and the conductor a Canadian; but both seemed to have sunk their nationalities in a conspiracy to make as much as possible out of their freight of trusting passengers. Owing to the top-ice frequently breaking, the jolting soon became so severe and wearing that it was a positive relief when the conductor " invited " the male portion of his charge to come and assist in pushing the stage back towards the smooth ice. Every now and then, too, we were enabled to heighten the pleasures of this employment by putting our feet right through to the lower ice, and having to hold on to the sides of the stage, till another safe footing could be obtained.

At length, after fourteen miles of such forced labour, we touched the limits of the ice-region, and were thence rowed in more comfort over the last mile

b2 of our passage across to the American mainland — that is, if comfort can, by any stretch of fancy, be said to associate itself with boots full of water.

Surely so valuable a co-operation might, at any rate, have met with its reward in an honest fulfilment of their advertised contract on the part of the ice-stage people. Our reward, as we neared the land, was to see the " cars " moving off without us, an hotel-keeper at Cape Vincent having bribed the stage-conductor to defer our arrival with a view to the hospitalities of his house, which he fondly trusted must needs follow. The American landlord and the Canadian conductor, however, had alike neglected to count the cost of failure. For we forthwith proceeded to pass our enforced stay in the one hotel of all which we deemed the most unlikely to have cultivated the art of bribery. Meantime, the superior claims of honesty over " smartness " were being practically asserted on the person of our late conductor. At home in England, an appeal would have lain to the owners of the public conveyance, or possibly to a court of law, for damages through delays on the road. But the transatlantic mode of redress is quite as instructive, less expensive, and much quicker. When it appeared

INTO THE "STATES."

certain that there was no going on that night, one of my fellow-passengers coolly walked up to the conductor, and, seizing him by the collar, in the twinkling of an eye put his head " in chancery," and served him out in the presence of an admiring public.

We started again next morning, under a genial sky, and were speedily flying, with all pressure on, behind two great " cow-catcher " railway engines of the country.

The part of the United States through which the New York road from Cape Vincent runs is flattish and unsightly, till Albany and the Hudson River are reached. But the English traveller, with his inborn taste for observation, never lacks subjects of interest in America.

Passing through the townlet of Brownville, I noticed some tall and handsome pine-trees. Now it is generally assumed in England that, where pine-trees are grown, the soil must of necessity be barren. From this opinion I altogether dissent, for I have seen the very best description of soil underlying large woods of pine, both in Canada and in Bedfordshire in England. This fact, it is true, does not tell so much on the North American continent, where generally the pine-tree roots run along the ground within a few inches of its surface, as it does in England, where the roots frequently penetrate fifteen feet into the earth. None the less it seems to me to furnish ample evidence in disproof of the assumption that, because pines prevail in the northernmost districts of the States, the soil there must necessarily be unproductive.

A singular property of British North American timber is its brittleness. Nothing is commoner in the Canadian bush than to see huge pieces of forestwood blown down in all directions by squalls of wind. I well recollect one of those light squalls, so peculiar to Canada, overtaking me when riding once through the bush. In order to save my life I was obliged to urge on my horse at full speed : for I could hear and see the trees toppling over, here, there, and everywhere around me.

As one travels south, the timber becomes more consistent. But Nature, not being a respecter of national boundaries, carries its Canadian singularities a long way into the States. In the forests beyond Brownville, quantities of trees, evidently not cut, but snapped and broken off, lay strewn about, right and left. Many of these were beeches of a very fine growth, and such as had apparently intended to

TREES, COAL, AND IRON. 7

develop themselves into stately forest trees. Those of their companions which had survived supplied a refreshing change to the eye, after the everlasting pines of Canada. In America, when a beech plantation flourishes, it is universally received as the surest indication of a fertile subsoil.

The country through which we passed was not so flat but that railway-cuttings were sometimes requisite. I observed a stratum of blue or shale limestone in the cuttings — proof of the near neighbourhood of coal, although, from aught I could ascertain, none had so far been discovered. I cannot doubt, either, the existence of iron in that particular district. Several of the railway-stations, or a depots," as the natives queerly call them, were built of deep redcoloured brick, showing iron to form a constituent part of the clay soil, which abounds here. Up to the present year (1871), the source of wealth latent in that iron-ore remains entirely untouched, the double cause being, doubtless, want of capital and workmen.

We now were steering eastward, and gradually getting into a milder climate. The snow had imperceptibly decreased from three feet to about four inches. But there was scarce anything to attract attention along the route, save the intense sameness arising from uncultivated lands, stunted woods, and miles upon miles of arid desolation. We would rush on for fifteen or twenty miles without more than an odd farmhouse or two varying the landscape, or without the trace of any living soul inhabiting the country, unless it could be discerned in the signboards which are stuck up where the farmers' roads intersect the railroad, and which warn wayfarers in the wilderness that, when they "hear the bell ring," they are to M look out for the locomotive." On every American engine there is a large bell, which the stoker takes care to ring whenever the "cars" come to a crossing or have to go through a town. If the engine should require wood or water, a loud steamwhistle is sounded, very unlike similar instruments in England, but which repeats the sounds w-o-o-edd, w-a-tt-a, as plainly as I here spell the words, and usually a mile before arriving at the station : so that the porters, or employes according to their Yankee designation, have good time to get ready.

We hurried thus through not a few straggling villages, all aspirants to the status of " cities." But none were of the slightest importance, until at last we sighted the " City of Rome."

THE " CITY OF ROME."

In my capacity as a traveller from Europe, I naturally felt curious to see what sort of place new Rome could be. We just stopped to take water "on board." But, in that short time, I had time enough to note that the borrowed title was not such an absolute misnomer as I had expected. My American fellowtravellers said they were proud of this rising town, and with reason. When I saw " Rome " it had only seen ten years of life itself. Yet it already contained 12,000 inhabitants, and a considerable number of substantial, nay even imposing, buildings. It made quite a grand appearance from the station. And who can tell whether it may not be destined, in ages yet to come, to wield some undreamt-of power in the West? Neither ancient nor modern Rome has its destinies limited to a day.

Albany was the only town of consequence afterwards. Our "cars" did not enter it, as it lies on the opposite side of the Hudson River, which we had now reached. But, to judge by outside looks and by the manifest advantage of its position, it assuredly has a splendid future before it. Here we enjoyed the sensation, not known to travellers in Europe, of reentering the haunts of civilization. A more delightful ride than that down the banks of the Hudson can hardly be desired. The scenery nowhere partakes of grandeur. What are called the Highlands of the Hudson are mere hillocks compared with the real mountain-ranges of America. They do not even approach the Rhineland for precipitate height and picturesqueness. Still, there is a breadth combined with a winding beauty proper to the Hudson, which is not to be found united on the same scale, in any river that I know of, throughout the European continent.

The views as we neared New York differed considerably from those of the Upper Hudson. It is a thousand pities that a bridge has not been constructed at some point about ten miles above the " Empire City." For there the far-famed Hudson opens up an expanse capable of holding vast fleets ; and it cannot be doubted that a suitable bridge would materially add both to the interests and the beauty of the river.

An amusing incident happened " on board " the ." cars," just previous to our arrival at New York.

The conductor, in the performance of his duty as ticket-collector, having applied to a passenger fresh from the Emerald Isle to give up his ticket, the following conversation ensued : —

"PATRICK" ON HIS TRAVELS. 11

Conductor. " Your ticket, sir."

Patrick. " Ah, dhin, what d'ye want it for?"

Conductor. " I want to see it."

Patrick. " Do ye, now? And, faith, and ye won't."

Conductor. " In that case, you must pay your fare over again."

Patrick. " Would ye raly like to see it, now ?"

Conductor. " I must have either the ticket or the money."

Patrick. " Bedad, and ye wont have the ticket — divil a bit of it."

Here Patrick pays the fare.

Conductor. u Why couldn't you have said at once, that you had no ticket?"

Patrick (winking at the passengers). "Arrah, be aisy, conductor. Maybe, ye'd like to see it now f "

Here the Emeralder pulls the ticket out of his stocking, and, showing it to the conductor, slips it quickly again into its hiding-place, with the selfsatisfied air of a man who has got the best of the argument.

It was a matter of lively speculation in the " cars" as to how long Patrick would be likely to reside in the great go-ahead country before he underwent the process of having his wits sharpened.

Darkness had fully set in when we were deposited at the railway "depot," in Thirty- seventh Street, New York.

As to give a just appreciation of the "Empire City " would take more materials than a transitory visit could have afforded me, I shall here simply pass through it, so to speak, on the way to my outward-bound vessel.

Chapter II

BOUND FOR " ASPINWALL" — AMERICAN COASTING—- THE GULP STREAM — SAN SALVADOR — MARIGTJANA — THE " QUEEN OP THE ANTILLES" — JAMAICA — THE "WINDWARD PASSAGE" — ACROSS THE CARIBBEAN SEA — PHOS- PHORESCENT WATERS.

Just at that period hosts of gold-hunters were rushing out of the United States to Cariboo, British Columbia. I chanced into their very midst.

It was not without considerable difficulty, therefore, that I succeeded in obtaining a berth, by paying a high price for it, on board the Northern Light — a ship of fifteen hundred tons burden, bound from New York to Colon, or Aspinwall, as the Yankees affect to call it.

Under British laws such a vessel would not have been allowed to carry more than eight hundred souls in all. I made one, however, of 1694 passengers, besides the crew and the usual quantum of " stowaways." A more motley collection of human beings, and of absolute nondescripts, mortal eyes never beheld.

That April afternoon was bright, with a warm southerly wind, as I got my traps finally conveyed to the vessel, and before dusk we had steamed along under the heights of Staten Island, through the Narrows, by Sandy Hook, and out into the broad Atlantic. The sun dipped down gloriously behind Long Island, and there seemed every prognostic of a pleasurable if not a rapid passage.

Three o'clock the next morning discovered us off the Delaware coast, with the mainsail flapping in a gentle breeze. The beautiful sunset over-night had been followed by a moonlight equally beautiful, and so shiningly clear that I was enabled to read and note my diary while sitting on deck.

We were soon, however, to experience the varieties of American coasting ; for, as the day dawned, large numbers of porpoises began to tumble about near the ship's sides, whilst flights of sea-gulls added a still surer presage of the coming storm. In a short time "white horses" were cresting the waves, the vessel took to pitching and rolling, the cordage rattled, the planks creaked, and we saw we were in for a regular gale. Suddenly the thermometer fell to near freezing-point. I lay in my berth, not sick — I wish I had been — but in that perfectly wretched state of existence which

OFF CAPE HATTERAS. 15

would as lief accept death as life, for some measure of release from the punishment. If there be any consolation in knowing that others are suffering contemporaneously with oneself, I had it in abundance. From my accommodation-berth, five feet long by one and a half wide, I could hear and feel that scores of the crowded passengers were as prone on their backs as I was, the men cursing and the women screaming, and both lamenting in piteous terms their folly in venturing upon the treacherous ocean.

u Where are we?" I asked of the Captain, as I descried him passing my cabin door.

" Off Cape Hatteras," was the curt reply.

" Do you think there's any danger, Capt'n?" halfshrieked a middle-aged dame, in the next cabin to me.

u Danger, mum ? Not the slightest. Just a capful of wind."

" That's the worst of them navy men," I heard the middle-aged dame's husband remark, as soon as our Captain had disappeared up the gangway. " When the waves is a-runnin' mountains, they says it's 1 rayther fresh,' and when it's a-blowin' of great guns, they tells us it's ' jist smartish sea-going,' they does. Where's the comfort o' that ?"

There seemed a good deal of truth in my next neighbour's homely criticism, supposing that the Captain's duty does include comforting his passengers. The practical difficulty would probably lie in the Steamship Company having to provide a duplicate of the Captain and his ship's officers.

Within twenty-four hours the storm had abated, and determining now to try my " sea-legs," the first object I caught sight of on gaining the deck was an immense shoal of sea-weed, which, the boatswain informed me, was proof positive that we had entered the Gulf Stream. Here, too, I saw for the first time some of the cetacean mammals of the deep, together with flying fish in vast quantities, sporting a few feet off our ship's bows.

On the fifth day, we sighted San Salvador, or Cat Island, the name by which the first land seen by Columbus (Oct. 8, 1492) has since been desecrated. Our course was S.S.W., with a strong easterly wind and a long ground-swell ; and, on the following morning, we passed Mariguana Island, two miles on the starboard bow, the ship now steering W.S.W., in order to make what is known as the Windward Passage, or the road leading from the Atlantic Ocean, between the islands of Cuba and San Domingo, into the Caribbean Sea.

. MARIGUANA ISLANDS. 17

The Island of Mariguana has a type of its own, and quite different characteristics from the West Indian islands in general. As a whole it is as flat as it is possible to imagine land to be. The northern parts, however, are covered with thick and richlooking woods, whilst the southern, for many miles inland, present the appearance of a wild, uninhabited common — very much, in fact, what the pristine navigators of these seas must have originally found it, The Bar, which lies out almost two miles seaward, offers an insuperable obstacle to Mariguana ever subserving the interests of commerce to any great extent. While hove-to and waiting our pilot, I had an opportunity of observing the bay. From the deck of our vessel it certainly did look very pretty, with its still, pale-green waters, contrasting with the deep-blue sea outside the Bar, and its pipeclay-coloured shore banks, which strike down abruptly and are topped with luxuriant verdure. Numerous flocks of sea-hens were enjoying themselves over the placid., surface of this ocean-lake, and demonstrating by their evident tameness that the Mariguanians are no sportsmen. The shores of all the island, I heard, have a deep deposit of white sand. The shore itself, not the sand, emits a sulphureous smell. Once or

c , twice I thought a whiff of it reached out to the ship. Those who know the pleasures of volcanic eruptions will scarce be thankful if fate should cast them upon Mariguana. The place just looks as though, some day or other, it might go down bodily into the depths of the ocean.

Far otherwise is the aspect of Cuba, which island was hailed, not long after, by our look-out man from the main-top.

Columbus landed in Cuba, at the end of the same month that he took possession of San Salvador. It is 800 miles long, and 125 broad, and lies on the verge of the Bahamas coral-beds. The Spaniards have surnamed it " The Queen of the Antilles," and well does Cuba deserve the title. As we steamed fast towards it, full in view lay this richest jewel in the crown of Spain, its mountain-peaks towering majestically to the sky, and its rich vegetation stretching out of sight to the furthermost horizon. On the left were the lofty peaks of San Domingo, splendidly flanked on the left again by the island of Porto Eico, and on the right by that of Jamaica, as, before making the Windward Passage, we could dimly perceive them in the remote distance. In all nature it were hard to conceive a scene more redolent of

THE TROPICAL FIRMAMENT. 19

delights. The Antilles, looked at from without, well realize the mediaeval fable of the tl Enchanted Islands."

What a strange and rapid vicissitude! Hardly five days ago we had been watching sportive whales and enduring a cruel cold, and now we were launched into a climate so fearfully hot that an awning of blanketing was obliged to be rigged on the hurricanedeck before any one could attempt to sit there. Fortunately the water had become smooth as a pond, so that our lately bedridden passengers could crawl up from their berths, and, packing themselves together in a dense crowd, inhale a few breaths of fresh air, and feast their eyes on the magnificent diorama revolving before them.

In this region, the voyager from the North gazes wonderstruck upon a firmament hitherto unknown to him. As night comes on, he cannot fail to remark that the moon gives out a radiance much stronger and more lucid than in higher latitudes. Even when there is " no moon," the planet Yenus and the Milky Way are so extraordinarily brilliant as, in a measure, to supply the want of the light which is reflected on our own planet through the medium of the moon. Then, the disclosure of entirely novel constellations, the grouping together of stars sublime in their magnitude, the nebulae scattered broadcast over the prodigious space above, combine to invest with new-born interest the first view of a nocturnal sky in the tropics. The great Humboldt describes himself as having been deeply affected when he beheld it.

As we pressed onward, past Jamaica, and across the Caribbean Sea, I noticed that the water was peculiarly phosphorescent at night. Before starting on my journey I had been prepared for this phenomenon, and had heard scientific men attribute it to the animal life which, they said, causes it in the Pacific. A subterranean communication, it is asserted, exists under the Isthmus of Panama, between the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans ; and, the Pacific being confidently believed to have a higher watermark than the Atlantic, whatever phenomena are produced in the one will be reproduced in the other. 1 too believe both in the subterranean passage and in the superior altitude of the Pacific ; but I explain the phosphoric appearances in either ocean very differently. A species of asphalte (chapote) is found to bubble up from the bottom of some fresh-water lakes in Mexico, and to wash back upon their borders. It has a pungent smell, similar to that