Paddling under palmettos

Front matter

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Contents

I — A Canoe Club Launch on the St. Johns .

II — The Long Cruise Begun

III — Archie Makes Fast to a 'Coon-Oyster Bar

Chapter I

A CANOE CLUB LAUNCH ON THE ST. JOHNS.

Jacksonville, Florida !

The noon train had just come to a stop at the depot, and the usual rush and clamor began.

Through the crowd a trio of young fellows forced their way, whose fresh, ruddy countenances told that they were from the North.

“Which way, now, Ned?’' asked the tallest one, speaking to a more sturdy lad.

“Bay street is just a square off. We’ll walk to the Carleton, get dinner, and then hunt up our boats. They were shipped by the new line from New York and must surely be here.”

The day was a delightful one at the beginning of the year, and especially charming to those who had come from the cold North. It was more like balmy May than January.

Walking along Bay street a dozen blocks, they saw much to attract their notice — many things that were strange to at least one of the party.

Having reached the hotel, opposite the post office, they removed the dust of travel and were soon enjoying a solid repast.

‘‘Make the most of it, boys. In a few days you’ll be introduced to a different style of living,” said Ned, sagely.

His experience in Florida cruising was apt to prove valuable to the party, although the Eastern coast was new stamping ground for him, his previous work having been in the neighborhood of Charlotte Harbor, down along the great gulf.

Dinner over, the boys sauntered down Bay street until they saw on the corner the sign of the Clyde line of steamers.

“Here we are, fellows,” said Archie, turning to the left.

Inquiry at the office revealed the fact that the canoes had arrived three days before.

“They lie out on the dock yonder,” said the agent.

A rush was at once made for the boats. They

Paddling Under Palmettos.

1 1

were new craft, built especially for this cruise, and the boys had never seen them up to this time.

All were delighted with the results of an inspection.

Two of the boats were of the Mohican design and seemed to have all the requisites for cruising, being roomy and stanch withal.

They were rigged with sails of a pattern known as the Mohican settee, with every appliance for reefing and labor-saving known to “ye modern builders of pleasure boats,” possessing also cruising sails of a more modest character.

The third craft was not much different in so far as looks were concerned. Its hull was shapely and beautifully put together, but the rig was of a peculiar character. Later on we will have an opportunity to see how Archie made out with his boat, for there were several ideas of his own which the maker had ingrafted in the little vessel.

Each canoe had a tent, double and single paddle, and other things such as prove necessary on a long trip like that contemplated by the daring young mariners.

The boys had brought all their duffel in their trunks, and besides, each possessed a camp chest containing screw-top cans for different articles of food, two flamme force lamps for cooking, and the innumerable odds and ends that go with a cruising and camping outfit, and which are so familiar to those who have journeyed on river or lake that they need hardly be mentioned here.

When their eyes had feasted upon the boats, that were to be their future homes for many days and nights to come, until they were satisfied, they replaced the movable hatches and locked them.

“Where away now?” asked Archie, who seemed to be more of a novice in Florida cruising than either of the others, although all of them had really seen considerable experience in the line of roughing it.

Dick looked at the little silver watch he carried.

“Three o’clock. I think we would be apt to find some of the boys at the boathouse.”

“Let’s go, then.”

“Wait a moment.”

“What idea’s seized you now, Dick?”

“I was thinking of our pets here. We’ve settled the charges, so that the company is no longer responsible for their safety.”

‘'You’ve hit it exactly,” cried Archie, with some show of feeling, for he had already fallen in love with the dandy product of a Canton boatbuilder’s handiwork.

“Well, we’ve an invitation from the gentlemanly members of the Florida Canoe Club to make their boathouse our rendezvous while here.”

“Yes.”

“Then what’s to hinder getting the boats into the water and paddling down to the club?”

“How’s the tide?”

“On the ebb.”

“Then it’s a go,” cried the others.

They threw off their coats in a trice and set to work. Such activity promised well for the voyage, for determined fellows like these were bound to get along by hook or crook.

In half an hour the three canoes were wedded to the waters of the St. Johns and all hatches had been stowed away.

“Aboard with you and cast off,” said Dick.

They paddled out upon the river.

“Hurrah ! Isn’t this glorious after freezing in the North !” exclaimed Archie, enthusiastically.

Poor fellow ! It was his first trip to Florida.

The others looked at him with a smile, and then Dick winked in the direction of Ned.

They had been there themselves.

‘Wait !’’ said the former.

Archie puzzled over that word, but he failed to grasp its meaning until the next morning.

Then he knew.

“Say, what’s all this?” exclaimed Ned, suddenly, as they were swiftly cleaving the dark waters of the St. Johns.

“Halloo! What’s wrong?” from Dick.

“Mark front,” said Ned, using a term with which he had grown familiar in his many duck shooting experiences.

Looking down the river their eyes were pleased to see several small boats under full sail, beating up against a head-wind.

“Canoes, as I live!” cried Archie.

“A canoe race. I have it. We’re near the boathouse. The boys are having a race on the river. Listen — you can hear their friends cheering.”

Sure enough, from a point just beyond the intervening boats came loud calls, mingled with the tooting of an agonizing fog horn.

“Hurrah! Ida!s ahead! Good boy! Toot! toot!”

“Not much. It’s the Louise. There she comes! Sound the trumpet, boy!”

''Madeline wins again! She’s ’way ahead on this tack.”

As the winning canoe brought up near the clubhouse our three cruisers appeared in view, and were greeted with a round of cheers. They felt at home at once, for the members of the Florida Canoe Club were gentlemen who could not do too much for them.

Our little party expected to spend a week in Jacksonville.

They had accepted of numerous invitations to dinner in this frame of mind.

When the morrow came they changed their minds.

“What in the world is that?” exclaimed Archie at midnight, sitting up in bed as he heard a whistle and howl outside, accompanied by a rushing sound as of an express train under full headway.

Ned laughed.

'That announces the arrival of an old friend/’

"An old what?”

"An acquaintance whom you left behind — the north wind.”

"Yes, it’s a norther. I expected it,” grunted Dick, tucking his head under the clothes, with a shiver.

Archie wondered just then what there was about a double-reef breeze to discourage one. He learned something before he was done, and that name of "norther” became associated with stirring memories forever afterward.

In the morning it was six below freezing!

Things looked miserable.

How different from the day before, when the mercury went up to eighty and all nature seemed joyous.

Our friends were filled with animation, however, and went about their business immediately.

It was cold work, and even the baby alligators in the windows of the curio stores seemed to have a half-frozen appearance.

“Ugh, fellows! Let’s get out of this as soon as possible,” said Dick, with chattering teeth.

“If this is Jacksonville in January I’d rather have stayed North,” declared Archie.

Dick pointed down Ocean street.

The grand river could be seen, its surface ruffled into white-caps by the strong wind.

“You’d miss that up North. This is the grandest cruising State in the world,” he said, his enthusiasm once more overcoming the dejection brought about by the freezing atmosphere.

“Yes, if you can manage to avoid break-bone fever, malaria, and the thousand and one ills that come from being on marshy water,” said Dick, gloomily.

“But we came down here for warmth.”

“Then we must strike south to-morrow.”

“Can we be ready?” asked Archie.

“Yes, and take advantage of the wind. These northers generally blow themselves out in three days, although I have known them to last for six. Toward the end there comes a beautiful sailing breeze, on which we must try and reach Palatka.”

i8 Paddling Under Palmettos/

^‘Good! I’m with you.”

They seemed mutually agreed to get farther south as speedily as possible.

Although this same norther makes itself felt through the full length of Florida, down at the lower end of Indian River it is usually only a strong wind with the mercury at from forty to sixty degrees.

They had a letter of introduction to the Burbridge Grocery Company from an officer of the A. C. A., and here they had their list filled out, it having been arranged beforehand.

There were stores along their route, for a time at least, which saved them the necessity of overloading in the start.

Three wide-awake young fellows, full of push and determination, can accomplish considerable in a short space of time, and when evening came they had transferred most of their traps to the canoes in the boathouse.

In the morning they would doff the garb of civilization, don their regimentals, pack their stores, bid good-by to the jolly Pelicans, and be off.

Unfortunately none of the Florida club could accompany them, even a part of the way, as they had just returned from a cruise and camp-fire down as far as Titusville, on the Indian River.

This was a thing to be regretted, as they were jolly fellows to keep a fire warm.

Paddling Under Palmettos.

Chapter II. The Eong Cruise Begun

Morning showed no diminution in the force of the cold spell.

Ice had formed in all the gutters, and the three canoe cruisers were determined to head the prows of their craft up the St. Johns without delay.

This river is, I believe, the only one in the United States flowing directly north through the whole of its course, and our boys had much difficulty in heading south to believe they were not descending instead of ascending the grand river.

It was noon ere everything was in readiness for a start.

Dinner had been eaten with the captain and mate of the Pelicans, who waved them adieu from the float of the clubhouse as they struck out upon the stormy bosom of the mighty St. Johns.

The wind being very fresh, they proceeded under double-reefed mainsail alone.

It was exhilarating work, and dangerous withal.

for the wind came fiercely at times, when there was more than usual exposure.

Fortunately several things were in their favor, and these made their start propitious.

There was much for Archie to see, being a stranger in a strange land; but just then his boat demanded his undivided attention.

Four o’clock came and they followed the lead of Ned, who had changed his course and seemed to be heading for shore.

‘‘Here’s our camping ground. We’d better take it when we can get it,” he called out, and thus showing the wisdom and philosophy of a veteran cruiser.

Archie discovered why the little cove had been selected, for it was sheltered from the searching north wind by a heavy growth of live oaks growing on a hommock just beyond.

Into this cove they ran, and as the water was exceedingly shallow, all of them had to go overboard and pull their boats up on the sandy shore, a piece of “tracking” business with which Florida cruisers soon become familiar.

Having made a landing, they immediately started into business, two of them constructing an excellent shelter tent with the sails of the boats and a piece of extra canvas carried to be used in case of an emergency, while Archie started a fire with pieces of dead live oak found in abundance, fed with fat, resinous pine.

'‘What shall we have for supper?” asked Dick, as master of ceremonies.

“Coffee for two. I’ll attend to that,” said Archie.

“I can be counted on for a stew out of canned corned beef and Boston baked beans,” echoed Ned.

“I’m hungry for mullet,” Dick said, wistfully, as he glanced out upon the water.

Archie looked up.

“I thought the fish wouldn’t bite here when a norther was on,” he said, quickly.

“We don’t usually catch mullet with a hook, Archie. Look there — see ’em jump.”

In the shallow waters of the cove small mullet were leaping out of the water, sometimes as high as two feet.

“Try them, Dick,” said Ned, nodding his head.

“I will.”

Dick had on his rubber wading boots that came up to his hips. Archie watched him rummage in the hold of his canoe and finally draw out a net with lead weights attached.

‘‘Ah ! I see — the Spanish cast-net,” he muttered.

He had never seen one used and watched his companion with interest.

It was just growing dusk, and the mullet had sought just such sheltered nooks in which to carry on their mysterious and apparently meaningless acrobatic feats.

Dick waded out until the water was perhaps two feet deep, his careful eye noting the surface ahead for signs of a school.

He held one of the leads between his teeth, and had gathered several loops of the remainder in his right hand to be released altogether.

The round cast-net is universally used through the South. It is in two sizes, the larger or Spanish net being generally for fishermen and difficult to cast.

Along the bottom are the leads. Leading-strings run from these up to a horn ring in the center of the net.

It is cast with a peculiar rotary movement by the aid of arms, head, and body, falling flat and fully extended upon the surface of the water, when the leads instantly sink, inclosing the unlucky fish with the net.

The heavy cord attached to the leading-strings is then drawn quickly, the net assumes the manner of a purse, and the fish are safe.

It requires some practice to cast successfully, but later on, when opportunities were plentiful, Archie took a few lessons from his companions, who were proficient in the art, and learned to do the thing with credit.

After many casts, about two dozen small mullet yielded to Dick’s prowess. These he cleaned and prepared for the pan.

Several pieces of fat salt pork were tried out in the frying pan first of all, after which he rolled each fish in cracker crumbs and dropped them into the pan. when a tremendous sputtering began.

The boys declared the supper fit for a king, when the small mullet, browned and crisp, had utterly vanished.

When it was over they took the tin platters and cups, filled them with wet sand, rubbed this with the gray moss that hung from the live oaks and cypress trees, and had the dishes cleaned in a trice.

The wind still blew heavily from a point almost due north, and they prepared to pass the night as comfortably as possible.

All was warm and snug under their shelter, though the pungent smoke from the camp-fire persisted in entering to some extent.

Tired with the day’s labor, they soon rolled themselves up in their blankets for sleep.

It was their first night out.

Besides the roaring of the wind through the branches of the trees, few other sounds could be heard, but once when Archie awoke he caught the weird hooting of an owl near by and smiled at the familiar cry.

Morning broke clear and sunny, but the norther still held full sway.

Around the camp-fire they studied Ned’s charts of the Government Geodetic Coast Survey — of which he carried a full assortment — and it had been decided that they were some thirty-two miles above Jacksonville, having made wonderfully quick time, considering the disadvantages under which they had labored.

An early breakfast and they were afloat once more upon the river.

Up to noon everything worked well, and they had made good progress. Then a halt was declared in order to make a pot of coffee and eat lunch, for all had by this time become thoroughly chilled.

They had just finished the frugal repast when Ned made a discovery — there was an orange grove back of them, and of course a house.

Archie was sent to procure a supply of the golden globes for immediate consumption.

Some thought caused him to take his paddle along — perhaps he had a vague idea that a pole would be necessary in order to knock the oranges down. However that may be, he was ere long glad of such an available weapon.

A couple of savage little curs assailed him, and it was only by alternately knocking over first one and then the other with the canoeist’s best friend — his paddle — that he kept the small fiends at bay until a “Cracker,” or native, ran out of the cabin and put his assailants to flight.

As Archie yearned for oranges and the Cracker was sadly in need of funds, they soon struck a barf.ii

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“The little fleet was tinder way at one o’clock, and skimming along over the white-capped waves of the majestic St. Johns.’’ See page 27, gain, and the pilgrim returned laden down with the fruits of his victory, and proud to show the marks of the dogs’ teeth upon his spruce blade.

It was the first adventure of the cruise.

The little fleet was under way at one o’clock, and skimming along over the white-capped waves of the majestic St. Johns, with Ned in the van and Archie bringing up the rear, he being somewhat of a novice, although he had sailed before and was willing to follow where his comrades led as long as he could keep his snug craft right side up.

Let us give what few particulars are necessary here and be done with it, as much of a more interesting nature remains to be told.

These three young fellows constituted the canoe club of a town in New York State not a great distance from Lake George.

They were known as the Red Jackets, in honor of that famous old Indian orator of the Six Nations.

Upon their sails as a totem they had stitched a life-like representation of the head of a red fox.

Ned was captain, Dick the mate, and Archie the balance of the club, honors which his broad shoulders willingly bore and over which he joked at sundry times.

Each man was known at times by the name of his dainty craft.

That of the captain had painted on each side of the bow the word Sachem.

Dick called his canoe Bet, while Archie had gone further and named his the Sea Waif, though as yet it had never been used upon the ocean.

Thus let them be known to the end of the chapter.

Their cargo it would be hard to describe in detail, but by glancing at the inventory of the last-named boat it can be seen what each of them was provided with.

First there was a clothes-bag made of waterproof material, in which all extra clothing, such as a suit of woolen garments, flannel shirt, socks, etc., were kept from dampness. Then came a rubber blanket.

Next to these was the boat tent, made of striped awning goods, presumed to be waterproof, but also frequently deceiving the trusting youth who slept under its warrant. Alongside of this was the camp chest containing cans of groceries, such as tea, coffee, sugar, flour, cornmeal, oatmeal, hominy, etc. ; the canned goods, such as corn, succotash, dried beef, Boston baked beans, roast beef, corned beef, etc., lying in the bow, as far as possible, to serve as ballast.

A little rack on one side under the deck held a double-barreled shotgun in a waterproof case.

On the other side a similar rack held a heavy fishing rod.

Then there were a few small culinary articles for use with the Hamme force alcohol lamps, the large frying pan, coffee pot, and kettle being divided among the three canoes, these to be used only when camping ashore — something that might occur only once in a while when they got far down in the Indian River country.

Next came a small tin box of fishing tackle, some cigar boxes of shells for the gun, a lantern, % camp hatchet, or ax, hunting knife, and, of course, other things that were needed.

Two of the boys had shotguns, while Dick carried a Winchester repeating rifle, of which he was very fond.

All this while they had been making progress, and at dusk Palatka came in sight.

“Let’s haul in here and make fast to one of the docks,” said Dick.

“Agreed. Seventy-five miles sailing since yesterday noon in a cold breeze satisfies me,” returned Ned, as he headed for the city on the right.

They rounded to beyond a wharf and dropped sail.

At once preparations were made for the night, this being always the first thing thought of before even supper was considered.

The painter was made fast to the dock, about ten or twelve feet away, and the three canoes were the same distance apart.

It was easy to get from one to another, in case visiting was desired. Tents now went up, and when this task had been completed the night was coming on, so that dinner was the next consideration.

Archie took a run to the post office for letters and to forward their mail.

Then they settled down for a night of it, the wind increasing in force as the hours wore on.

To a novice the position would have been a strange one, indeed, the small boats dancing the livelong night on the waves as the wind caught the bow-end of the tents.

They swung a little, and it was determined that before they went to sleep each should throw out from the stern a little Chester folding anchor, two of which were a part of the complement of each boat.

Archie slept fairly well considering the novelty of his position, for although not much of a canoe cruiser he had hunted and fished in many States, and roamed the wilds of Canada, camping out many a time, so that these things were not new to him.

Paddling Under Palmettos.

Chapter III. Archie Makes East To A 'coon-oyster Bar

Archie was the first to awaken, and, poking his head through the rear opening of his canoe tent, he saw that morning was at hand.

‘‘Ahoy there, BetT

“Hello! yourself. Sea Waif! What’s the row?”

“Why, it’s time to get up!”

A minute later Dick poked a cheery face out of his tent.

“Another cold day ahead,” he prophesied, with a grimace.

There was every indication of it, for the wind still hung in the north, and showed no inclination to move out of it.

The canoeists were in no great hurry this day, for they had only a few miles to make to Rollston, where the boats were to be taken out of the water, put on the cars, and carried to the Halifax River, on the coast, a distance of some fifty miles.

About ten o'clock they hoisted sail and left the bustling little city of Palatka behind.

A bend in the river gave them every chance to try different methods of sailing, but, so far, the wind was fair and they found no fault to speak of in their boats.

Rollston landing was reached.

It was now noon, and the train would not leave until after three o’clock, so they concluded to have their lunch in the boats before taking them from the river.

Then came the task of lifting the little vessels out and carrying them to a point where they could be put on the cars.

As the baggage car would be too crowded with the three canoes, a flat-car was obtained, by means of which they could be well handled. This was attached to the rear of the train.

“Here comes the steamboat,” said Dick, at last, pointing down the river.

It was the Sylvester ^ making her daily trip to Palatka and this landing. Having deposited a few passengers and some freight upon the staging, she turned and began her return trip to Jacksonville,

‘‘All ready?’' asked the boy conductor of the train.

“Yes — we can answer for this end of the line,” replied Dick, laughing.

“Going to ride on the flat-car?”

“Yes. We’re anxious about our boats.”

“You’ll find it cold work.”

“I guess we can stand it, thank you.”

A toot of the whistle, and they were en route for the Halifax River.

It was, indeed, a cold ride.

As the sun sank lower they shivered in the chilly breeze, although the thick forests through which the new road ran screened them somewhat. They were all cheery, however, and with song and laughter made the time pass.

Night came on, but not darkness, for the moon was in her proudest state, and arose as the sun vanished from view.

The train stopped at a little station, just beyond which numerous fires coujd be seen in the woods, being made by the Italians who were working on the railroad.

“We drop off half a mile below, at Tomoka Creek. The conductor says he will leave our car there until he goes back to-morrow. Here’s a key to the new storehouse on the other side of the creek, where we can sleep to-night, for it’s going to be cold.”

This was luck, what Ned announced. Archie thought that if cruisers were treated as kindly everywhere they would have little to complain of. He knew, however, that letters from their friends in Jacksonville had brought about these favors.

Presently they rumbled across the bridge spanning Tomoka Creek. The flat-car was left in front of the new little one-story storehouse, and the train went on to its destination.

In this house the young voyagers made themselves comfortable, cooking a square meal. Then, while Ned made up his log by the light of a lantern and smoked his pipe, Archie and Dick went out for a walk and a tour of investigation.

They found that a staging ran down to the water, and it would be easy work to launch their boats, relieved, as they were, from most of their contents.

The flat-car, with its precious load, stood in the cold moonlight in front of the cabin, and they found it all right when they awoke in the morning.

An early breakfast and then to work. One by one the canoes were carried down and wedded to the brackish waters of the creek, at this point some sixty feet in width.

Then the cargoes were stowed, after the masts had been stepped. By noon all was ready, and the trio of adventurous cruisers ate a cold lunch.

By this time the wind had slackened and came only in puffs along the creek, although they would evidently find more of it out upon the river when they reached that point.

Archie had scared up a large bevy of quail among the palmettos near the landing, and greatly desired to get a crack at them, but forebore on account of the need for haste.

They set sail. Progress was slow but sure, and, perhaps, in the end this pleases a canoeist as well as a rush, during which the fingers tingle with excitement.

Winding this way and that and passing a little steam tug with a tow of logs, they finally reached the mouth of the creek about two o’clock.

But for Ned’s charts they might have stuck in the mud a dozen times, for the channel here is just where a novice would never think of looking for it.

Once upon the Halifax, with the wind dead aft, they sailed merrily on. As the afternoon grew apace the wind increased in strength until the white-caps were dancing along the surface.

It was decided to head for Daytona, and about four o’clock they sighted that place.

The white houses nestling in among the green trees proved a welcome sight. A long wharf jutted out — it being the universal custom to build them in this fashion, as the shores are too shallow to allow of a steamer coming close in. Indeed, in many places the writer has seen a square platform built out in the middle of the Indian River, and the St. Johns also, possibly half a mile from the shore, and from which passengers and freight were transferred to dry ground by sailboats.

The canoes were secured again as on the previous night. It threatened rain now, though the wind continued to blow.