Front matter
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Preface
The title — Los Gringos — with which this volume has been christened, is the epithet — and rather a reproachful one — used in California and Mexico to designate the descendants of the Anglo- Saxon race ; the definition of the word is somewhat similar to that of Greenhorns, in modern parlance, or Mohawks in the days of the Spectator. Although many of the scenes were passed in those countries, yet the narrative takes a wider range, and embraces portions of the South American Continent in Brazil, Chili, and Peru, — together with visits to some of the groups of the Pacific at the Sandwich, Marquesas and Society Islands.
The sketches embodied in the narrative were all written on the field of their occurrence : the characters incidentally mentioned are frequently noms de mer.
It is not expected by the Author that even the most charitable reader will wholly overlook the careless style and framing of the work, or allow it to pass without censure ; nor has it been his object to deal in statistics, or any abstract reflections, but merely to compile a pleasant narrative, such as may perchance please or yi PREFACE.
interest the generality of readers ; and in launching the volume on its natural element — the sea of public opinion — the Author only indulges in the aspiration — whether the reader be gentle or ungentle — whether the book be praised or condemned — that at least the philanthropy of the Publishers may be remunerated, wherein lies all the law and the profits.
New York, October, 1849.
Chapter I. Pack
We sail from Boston, and how we felt.— Cure for Sea-Sickness.— Delights of the Ocean. — Crossing the Equator. — What the Mess was composed of.— We become reconciled to our Fate. — Pass Cape Frio, and have no Inclination to bivouac on the Hocks 1
Chapter II
T&io Janeiro, and what is to be seen there. — Life in the City. — Diamonds and Levites.— Police.— Cookery and Currency.— The Omnibus Jehu to Boto Fogo .
Chapter III
Gloria Hill. — II Cateto. — Architecture. — Visit from a Scorpion, and the Habits of other Reptiles.— The Opera.— The Emperor and Court. — The Brazilians think of carrying the War into Africa ; . .
Chapter IV
"We leave Rio, and march towards the Horn. — Man overboard and drowned.— La Plata.— We take an Albatros.— Terra del Fuego.— Pitch of the Cape.— A Marine dies.— -How the Yankee Corvette doubled Cape Horn.— What we did for Pastime.— Dr. Faustus.— The Island of Chiloe .....•_• viii CONTENTS.
Chapter V. Page
Valparaiso.— Bell of Quillota and Tupongati.— Where and how the Town is built. — Birloc hes .—Shops. — The Terraces. — El Almendral.—Carmencita.— Creole Ladies. — Tertulias. — The Samacueca.— Climate.— Dust.— The Doncella who caught a Flea, and how she did it. — Genera) Bulnes.— Army. — Government and Resources. — True Elements of Happiness 27
Chapter X
Mission of Carmelo.— Tramp in the Mountains.— Wolves and Venison.— We become bewildered, but encounter a Guide. — Boudoirs for Damsels. — The Fandango.— How the Gentlemen amused themselves. — We take to Hunting for Pastime.— Climate. — Juaquinito and his Mama. — Flains of Salinas.— Bill Anderson, his Windmill and History.— Wild Geese.— Native Entertainment . . 68
CONTENTS. is
Chapter XI
fag a Maritime Alps of California.— Entrance to Bay of San Francisco.— Yerbabuena. — Society.— Pranks on Horses.— Saddles. — New York Regiment. — Tho Cannibal Emigrants, and the Dutchman's Appetite ; with Baptiste's Remarks thereon. — Perils of Emigration 69
Chapter XII
Sousoulito.— The Belle of California.— The Bears of the same, who chase us.— Angel Island.— Deer and Elk Shooting ?5
Chapter XIII
Monterey again.— The Pioneer Newspaper, with the Editor, Dr. Semple. — We Sail for the Mexican Coast. — Island of Guadalupe. — Peninsular of Lower California.— Jesuits.— Trade. — Ports and Resources. — We blockade Mazatlan. — Reconnoisance, and the Ballet that ensued. — Yankee Bombs. — The Ladies deceive us.— The Chased Diana
Chapter XIV
Cruise of the Rosita. — Anchorage of Venados. — The Oyster-boat.— We received a Hostage in Doctor Barret, and learn his Misfortunes. — Change of Position. — We take a Prize, and afterwards nearly taken for another. — Set fire to the Dried Grass. — A False Alarm. — The Fish that broke Pat's Nose. — Our Supper and Attendants.— The Commodore orders us Home . . . . . . .89
Chapter XV
Period of the Blockade of Mazatlan.— The Commandante, Telles ; his Habits and Hospitalities.— The Frigate takes her Departure.— The Shark.— Anchor in Monterey the Third Time 99
Chapter XVI
Dispatches and Equipments.— Californian Gamesters. — The Vacuero. — Don Herman.— The Youthful Mother and her Gay Deceiver. — We Sup on Eggs. — Murphy's Rancho.— Pretty Ellen.— Picturesque Location.— Puebla.— Santa Clara.— Priests and Indians.— Ladies drying Beef.— Reach Yerbabuena . . . .102
CONTENTS.
Chapter XVII. Page
Sail up the Bay.— Embarcadera of San Jose.— We sleep at a Rancho.— Don Ignacio proves to be a Scamp.— Puebla. — Architecture and Agriculture. — Mission of Santa Clara.— The Cannonier.— The Padres.— The Dandies.— We attend Mass. — " The Forwardest Gall of the Mission. "— Bear Hunt with Dan Murphy. —Rustic Politeness.— Mission of San Juan.— The Gascon.— Crescencia is taken with Fits.— Empirical Practice.- -Get back to Monterey . Ill
Chapter XVIII
San Francisco once more.— Head Waters.— Bay of San Pablo.— Village of Sinoma. Vallejo.— Captain Swayback.— Hunting.— We Kill an Antelope.— Straits of Carquinez.— City of Benecia.— Mares Island.— Tulares Valley 122
Chapter XIX
California becomes tranquil, and the Columbus sails for Home.— Sailors drilled on Shore. — We Return to Monterey. — Town increasing. — The Reverend Alcalde, and how he collected Treasure.— Indians hung.— Diet and Games of the same.— Merendas ..... .130
Chapter XX
Final Adieu to Monterey.— Reach Cape San Bias, and San Jose.— We visit Alcaldes, and how they passed their Leisure. — Our First Search for the Enemy. — When we are offered a Baby, but decline. — Watering Ship, and other Pleasantries.— A Small Garrison landed to occupy San Jose 136
Chapter XXI
Demonstrations before Mazatlan.— Summons to Surrender.— We land Sailor Troops, and occupy the Town.— Positions and Selections for Defence.— Land Ordnance.— Ay untamientos.— Mexican Morality .—Piety of the People.— Climate and Diseases ... 142
Chapter XXII
Burning Launches.— Skirmishing.— A Reefer's Idea of Bullets.— The Retreat.— We lose the Road, and are scared. — Affair at Urias. — Ambuscade. — Escaramuza. Flight.— Burial of the Slain.— We are presented with a Black Charger, and return to the Port .... 1
CONTENTS. x ;
Chapter XXIII. Pack
Duties of a Garrison.— The Garita.— We Make a Night March, and Surprise Ligueras — The Killed.— Lady with them.— Our Trophies. — TheCommandante's Wife.— Is the innocent Cause of Murdering a Horse.— False Alarm. — Another Night Skirmish ; when the Guide gets a Bullet through his Head, and is Cursed by his Family 159
Chapter XXIV
How they Marry in Mazatlan.— Fights with Cuchillos. — The Man who is divested of part of his Scalp and Ear. — Cures effected — Flying Trip to Urias. — Where we take General Urrea's Orderly.— Who is afterwards set free 169
Chapter XXV
Mexican Troop pronounce against their Leaders. — We become Poverty Stricken. — Lancers attempt to run the Guantlet, and carry away some Buckshot. — Description of the Casa Blanca, and how we behaved.— Madre Maria and Pretty Juana.— The Elite of the Town, who praise us for not beating our Wives . . 173
Chapter XXVI
Dolores and her Lover ; who is wounded, and who is a Coward.— Lola dies and is buried 182
Chapter XXVII
£1 Tigre del Norte.— Mr. Bill Foley.— Sociedads.— Circus.— Monte.— Golden Toad — Carnival.— Intercourse with Foreign Society. — Hausen and the Hern Hutter. Don Guillermo.— While moralising one night we- are nearly impaled.— Our Little Housekeeper. — Pita. — Fandango de la Tripa. — Where a Lepero abstracts our Sword and Pistols : 186
Chapter XXVIII
News of the Peace — The Outsiders become complimentary, and pay a visit to Madre Maria. — With the Mounted Patrol and Captain Luigi we ride to Veradiilo, and disturb the slumbers of Senor Valverde, who. with some hesitation, returns with us to the Port, being the last Prisoner of the War. — A Man deserts, and we go to the Presideo for him.— General Anaya and Officers.— Conipiissioners meet and depart in Dudgeon • 194 xii CONTENTS.
Chapter XXIX. Fag*
Seige of San Jose. — Defences of Garrison.— The Summons and Parley.— The Storming Party.— Mijares Killed with his Forlorn Hope. — The Brave Whalemen — Ambuscade and Prisoners. — The Guerrillas begin the Second Siege. — Death of M c Lenahan.— The Garrison Beleaguered.— Arrival of the Cyane. — Battle and Relief 203
Chapter XXX
We Begin a Journey to the City of Mexico. — Disembark at San Bias. — Ride to Tepic— Cotton Mills of Barron, Forbes & Co. — Volcanic Masses. — Aquacatlan —
The Red-hot Patriot Wake of Don Pancho. — Plan de Barrancas. — The Piece of
Ordnance. — Muchatilti. — Madelena.— How Horses are Hired in the Republic. — Race with Banditti 216
Chapter XXXI
Guadalajara.— Senor Llamas.— The Lovely Senora.— Plaza and Beauty.— The Great Bridge. — Old Cypriano-s Superstition regarding Horses' Souls. — Tepetitlan. — Pueblos del Rincon.— The Drowsy Commandante.— City of Leon.— Knife Duel.— Mexican Mesons, and the Society therein. — Illumination and Supper. — We take Coach and reach Guanajuato. — The English Mint and Machinery. — Gaming. — Scenic Views. — Pat is a Deserter. — Don Pancho. — Escape from Los Compadres 233
Chapter XXXII
Queretaro. — Aqueduct. — Night ride by Post. — The United States Escort.— City of :c0 . — We are refused a Drive. — Cathedral. — Palace. — Plaza. — Museum. — Sacrificial Stone. — Manners and Customs in the Hells of Montezuma. — Chapultepec— The Deep Spring where we bathed. — Moleno del Rey.— Paseo . . 251
Chapter XXXIII
1 ureau of Postes. — Depart from the Aztic Capital. — Exemptions of Government Exuaordinarios. — Livery Stable Woman at Tepetitlan. — Invited to a Country Seat, and dine with Ladies. — We are afterwards kicked by a Horse, but continue the journey. — American Deserters. — Encounter Ladrons. and present our Passport.— Somebody killed by Mistake. — Excitement in Queretaro.— Traitors of bantfatricio.— Official Visits. — The Dignitaries of the Republic. — Breakfast with a Brilliant Colonel.— The Alemeda.— We run a Jouist.— Treaty signed . 260
CONTENTS. xiii
Chapter XXXIV. Pagk
Senor Rosa forgets our Escort, and we are scared and nearly coach-wrecked.— Mine of La Luz. — rass through Guanajuato to Lagos.— A Pronunciamento — Padre Jarauta, who treats us with contempt, and afterwards wishes to make an ejemplo. — We bid a Hasty Farewell.— An Ambulating Pulperia.— San Juan de Lagos.— Arrieros.— Puente Calderon.— Bathing in the Rio Grande.— The Rayo . 275
Chapter XXXV
Bull-fight at Guadalajara.— What Fools the Beasts are, and what Brutes the Men are — La Comedia.— Antique Guide. — Execution of Robbers. — Tequilla. — Patron of the Meson and his Daughters. — Endurance of Mexican Soldiers. — Adaptability of Western Provinces for Military Operations. — La Nuberrada. — Horse Jockeying.— We are made Unhappy. — Bathing in Tepic— Rio Grande and Santiago. — Shower of Water Melons. — Rio San Pedro. — Rosa Morada. — Acaponeta. —High Mass. — Tierra Caliente, and Old Tomas, the Poet— We return to Mazatlan 287
Chapter XXXVI
Don Guillermo and Senor Molinero.— The Olas Altas, and the gay scenes there enacted. — Thieves and Leperos, — How to learn Castilian. — Evacuation of Mazatlan by the U. S. Forces 307
Chapter XXXVII
Sailing of the Squadron.— Cross the Gulf, and arrive in La Paz. — Appearence of Vegetation. — How we amused Ourselves. — Fandangos. — Ball on Shipboard. — Marine Pic Nic— The Carrera. — The Uncivil Vacuero and his Rude Cattle. — The Chowder Party.— Perils and Pearl Fishing. — Hunting.— Game in Lower California. — The Cove of San Antonio, and Escape from Boatwreck .... 312
Chapter Xxxviii
What the U. S. Government did to induce the Natives to take up Arms.— The Volunteer who shot his Wife.— Little Sam Patch.— Flying Visit to Mazatlan, and Last Farewell .... 326
Chapter XXXIX
We leave Mexico.— Go to the Sandwich Islands, and anchor in Byron's Bay, or Hilo.— Natives.— Scenery. — Constables.— Meeting House. — Dialect — Sermon.— We Depart for the Interior.— Half-way House. — Society there, and how they cook Turkeys.— Volcano of Kilauea.— Frozen Sea o/ Lava.— The Great Crater.— Sulpher Banks.— Return to Hilo . • 329
Xiv CONTENTS.
Chapter XLIV
King Kammehamma, or the Lonely One.— Ministers.— Presentation at Court.— Furniture of the Palace. — Approach of Royalty. — Speeches. — Costumes. — Princes of the blood royal, who patronise us. — And what became of Moses . . 368
Chapter XLIX
Brown Road.— Semi-Civilization— Excursion to Pomaree Country House at Papoa. — The Queen and her Hen-coop Habitation. — School. — Fondness for Flowers. — Native Dinner. — Jack the Head Waiter. — Finger Glasses. — We sleep in the Palace, and are Serenaded. — Visit from a Tahitian Noble, and how he conducted himself. — Coral Groves in the Harbor. — Islet of Motunata , . . 400
Chapter L
Trip to the Mountains.— Teina.— Ferry-Boat, By Toanni.— Lofty Cascade. Fortress of Faatoar. — Losses by the French. — The Diadem. — We spread a Banquet, and the Ladies have an Appetite. — Soiree by French Governor. — Departure . 413
Chapter LI
Leave Polynesia.— Accident to Topmen. — The Great Pacific. — Old Harry Greenfield's Yarn. — The Royal Bengal Tiger, who had a difficulty with the Cook 421
CHAPTER LTI.
Callao.— Appearance of the Place.— The Citadel.— Rodil — Road to Lima.— And what may be seen in the City. — Rimac. — Public Edifices.— San Domingo 426
Chapter I
It was on the last day of summer, 1846, that a large vessel of War lay in the stream of Boston Harbor ; presently a dirty little steam tug, all bone and muscle, came burroughing alongside. The boatswain and his mates whistled with their silver pipes, like Canary birds, and the cry went forth, to heave up the anchor. Soon the ponderous grapnell was loosened from its hold, and our pigmy companion clasping the huge hull in his hempen arms, bore us away towards the ocean ; by and by, the unbleached canvas fell in gloomy clouds from the wide-spread spars — the sails swelled to the breeze — friends were tumbling over the side — light jokes were made — hats waved — cheers given, whether from the heart, or not, was a problem, and then there came a short interval in the hoarse roar of steam, as the pigmy's fastenings splashed in the water — then all was silent ; and the stately ship, dashing the salt tears from her eyes, turned her prow, in sadness, from her native land.
There were many, no doubt, of those six hundred souls on board, who leaving home with the sweet endearments of domestio life fresh upon them, were looking forward with blanched cheeks and saddened hearts, to years of distant wanderings. And there
2 CHAPTER I.
were others, too, equally indifferent, and regardless of the future —
" With one foot on land, and one on sea, — To one thing constant never,"
who, perhaps, never had a home — tired of the shore — were eager for change or excitement ; but I question much, if there was one on board, of all those beating hearts, who did not anticipate a safe and joyful return. Alas ! how many of these fragile aspirations were never realized. Numbers found a liquid tomb beneath the dark blue waves, or died a sailor's death in foreign climes, far away from friends and kindred, or returned with broken constitutions, and wasted frames, enfeebled by disease, to linger out a miserable existence on the native land they still loved so well.
A fortnight we sailed moderately and pleasantly in a race with the sun towards the equator. The pole star slowly but surely declined in the north ; faces began to assume a more cheerful aspect ; we became reconciled to our fate ; to banish those hateful things called reminiscences, which, even though pleasant, only make us regret them the more, when gone forever. Thus we entered the tropic, and then lay lunging and plunging in the doldrums — clouds dead and stupid, with the sim making all manner of gay transparencies, at the rising, and most particularly at the setting thereof. Then came another week of una furiosa calma — a furious calm, as the Spaniards have it — bobbing about in undulating billows, and the tough canvass beating and chafing in futile anger. It was thus we learned, those of us who had not made the discovery before, what a really animal existence one leads on shipboard ; a sort of dozing nonentity, only agreeable to those who have no imaginative organizations desirous of more extended sphere of action
CURE FOR SEA SICKNESS.
It does passibly well to eat and sleep away life — that is, presuming the dinners be hot and eatable, and nights cool and sleepable — in smooth seas, and under mild suns ; but when the winds are piping loud and cold, the vessel diving and leaping at every possible angle of the compass, with the stomachs of the mariners occasionally pitched into their heads, as if they were dromedaries, with several internal receptacles apiece, devised purposely to withstand the thumps and concussions of salt water ; when the ship is performing these sub-marine and aerial evolutions I take it, as a reasonable being, there can be found a stray nook or two, on hard ground, far more comfortable and habitable. And by way of parenthesis, I beg leave to recommend to any and all unfortunate persons given to aquatic recreation, and troubled with the disease whilom called sea-sickness, to divest the mind and body of care and clothing, tumble into a swinging cot, and on the verge of starvation sip sparingly of weak brandy and water, nibble a biscuit, and a well-roasted potato. I made this important discovery after being a sufferer ten years, and pledge a reputation upon the strength of that martyrdom, of its infallible virtues.
Indeed, there are but two kinds of sailing at all bearable. I allude, of course, to those who take to it con amore, and are not compelled to crowd all dimity to weather a lee shore and the almshouse ; one where the glorious trade wind fills the bellying canvas, and the vessel slips quietly and swiftly along with the gentlest possible careening ; without hauling and pulling of cordage, nor heavy seas, nor heavy rains, but the light, fleecy clouds flying gracefully overhead, the waves blue and yielding, the watch dozing lazily in the shade, and the decks clean and tidy — - it is a pretty sight, to see a noble ship properly manoeuvred, come
CHAPTER I.
swiftly up to the wind, the sails laid rapidly aback, with lower canvas brailed up in graceful festoons, and the buoyant hull rising and falling on the gentle swell, like the courtesies of Cerito or Ellsler in Sir Roger de Coverley, with all the drapery of dimity fluttering around them. Then, again, in that blue sea of seas, the Mediterranean, where more than half the year one may sail over level water, with none of the ocean swell, with delightful breezes only strong enough to fan the light and lofty sails to sleep, the shores of Italy or Spain lifting their green-clad hills along the beam, or the ever varying islands of the Grecian Archipelago coming and going, as you dart rapidly through their straits. Ah ! in those times, and in those seas, ships are possibly endurable, but of all monotonies, that of shipboard is the dullest, most wearisome and detestable.
Week after week passed away, one day like another, nothing to chronicle save the birth of a sailor's pet in the shape of a tiny goat — taking a shark — the usual pious Sunday homily, and on a certain occasion one Jem Brooks, whose residence, in company with other cherubs, was somewhere aloft in the main-top, whilst in the act of dropping a boat into the ocean, some mishap attended the descent, and he dropped overboard himself, thereby cracking the small bone of his leg, with a few other trifling abrasions of skin and flesh. Iron life buoys that no one as yet ever did comprehend the mechanism of, always fizzing off the port-fires in broad day, and enshrouding themselves in utter darkness at night when only needed, were instantly sent after the aforesaid Jem Brooks, who imbued with the wit and tenacity of his species in extremis, seized one of them, and in a short space returned pleasantly on board.
This was all that served to enliven our stupid existence.
DELIGHTS OF THE OCEAN.
The winds coquetted with all the perverseness of a spoiled beauty, at times blowing provokingly steady, then we went reeling over the seas, with piercingly blue skies above us, and all reconcileable elements to our journeyings, excepting the breeze ever blowing so pertinaciously in the wrong direction ; at others we managed to cheat Eolus out of a puff, and steal a march upon him, right into his breezy eyes, but then again he gave a wink, distended his huge cheeks, and blew us far away to leward. It was truly trying to the nerves to be crying patience continually, when there was no appeal — we could not exclaim with Dryden :
u The passage yet was good ; the wind 'tis true Was somewhat high 3 but that was nothing new, No more than usual equinoxes blew."
There was naught new nor usual about it, wind and weather were a mass of inconsistency 5 a few more revolutions of the sun, and we should have found ourselves stranded in the Dahomey territory, or other equally delightful regions, bordering on the Bight of Benin, in Africa ; even the good old captain of marines began to look worried and anxious, paid nightly visits to the sailing master, and with the most earnest and imploring tone, would ask — u Well, Master ! how does she head ?" as if he reposed full trust in his sagacity, and for God's sake to ease his mind, and let him hear the worst at once. Surgeons, pursers and secretaries, went off their feed, and from being rather over sanguine at times, burst forth with lamentable wailings in the poignancy of their despair The captain of the ship, too, reviled creation generally, and was rather snappish with officers of the watches ; hinting that the yards were not trimmed, ship steered properly, and other legal animadversions. Then the lieutenants, kind souls, abused the master, taxing him with manifold crimes and delinquencies for
6 ' CHAPTER I.
bringing adverse breezes, did those sagacious creatures, and at other times becoming jocose, would advise him to kick the chronometers several times around the mast to accelerate or diminish their rates, and talked loudly of requesting the Commodore to follow the first bark we might encounter, to the end that we should get safely into port — in fact, we were all, morally speaking, in a state of gangrene ; morbid, morose and our circumstances getting more desperate hourly ; but the longest night, except in the winter season off Cape Horn, has its dawning : the wind veered fair, whitening the ruffled water to windward, the noble frigate recovered her long lost energy, and with white sails swelling from trucks to the sea, shook the sparkling brine from her mane, and left a foaming wake behind ; the thick, mucky, sticky atmosphere that clung to us upon entering the tropic, was quickly displaced, by refreshing and grateful breezes.
We crossed the dividing line of the sphere, rushing and splashing down the slope on the other side, carrying the whole ocean before us : myriads of flying fish flashed their silver-tinted wings as they broke cover, and flew upward at our approach. Porpoises and dolphins would dash around the bows, try our speed, and then disappear, perhaps, with a contused eye, or bruised snout from a sparring match with the cutwater ; on we bounded with the cracking trade wind, tugging the straining canvas towards Brazil.
The mess was large, and composed of strange materials — men of gravity and men of merriment, some who relate professional anecdotes and talk knowingly of ships, and sails and blocks, and nautical trash generally, others, would be literary characters, who pour over encyclopedias, gazetteers and dictionaries, ever ready to pounce upon an indiscreet person, and bring him to book in old
WE BECOME RECONCILED.
dates or events ; then there is the mess grumbler, the mess orator, a lawgiver and politician, and always an individual, without whom no mess is properly organized, who volunteers to lick the American consul in whatsoever haven the ship may be, for any fancied grievance, but particularly if he happen to be poor, and not disposed to give a series of grand dinners upon his meagre fare of office.
All these individual peculiarities we had sufficient leisure to indulge in 3 and although I have asserted that ship-board is the most horrible monotony in life, and hold to mine oath, yet Apollo tuned his lyre, and old Homer took siesta, thus by example, if anything can relieve this dulness, it is in the very contrast, where the mercury of one's blood is driven high up by cheering prospects of favoring gales, and anticipations of a speedy arrival, after a tedious passage.
Our amiability returned with our appetites — alas ! too keenly for the doomed carcass of a solitary pig, grunting in blissful ignorance of his fate, in a spacious pen on the gun deck. Juicy and succulent vegetables had long since vacated the mess table, and the talents of our cordon-Mew, Messieurs Hypolite de Bontems, and Francois, were constantly phrenzied with excitement, composing palatable dishes, from the privacy of tins of potted meats, and hidden delicacies of the store rooms. We all became sociable, quizzed one another good humoredly — some declared they had been dreadfully spooney with some fair girls before leaving home, but were better now, and thought the marine air wholesome for those complaints. Others, again, still remained faithful, compared their watches with the chronometers, to determine the exact difference of time on certain periods designated beforehand, with may be a choice collection of stars of the first magnitude, to gaze at by night. Nevertheless, there was a radi
8 CHAPTER I.
cal change for the better ; we became more companionable, hobnobbed across the table, after dinner, heard with calm delight orchestral music from the flutes and fiddles of papa Gheeks and family — an old gentleman from faderland^ whom the sailors, in their ignorance of German, had baptized " Peter the Greeks," a soubriquet by which he tiniversally went — and one of our mess had the humanity to inquire if the small French horn, or octave flute, had tumbled down the hatchway, and whether he broke his neck or was merely asphyxie. We even ceased grumbling at the servants, and to a man all agreed that the passage had been of unexampled pleasantness.
Nothing checked our headlong speed, and the fiftieth day from Boston saw us close to the high, desolate mountains of cape Frio, within plain view of the little rocky nook where the English frigate Thetis made a futile attempt to batter the island over, but went down in the struggle. 'Tis said the gun room mess were entertaining the captain at dinner, who somewhat oblivious to everything, save being homeward bound to merry England with a ship laden with treasure, disregarded the sailing master's wishes to alter the course, and the consequence was, after night set in, the frigate struck, going eight knots — providentially the crew were saved. The long Atlantic swell was rolling heavily against the bluff promontories, and the surf lashing far up the black heights, giving many of us a nervous disinclination to making a night expedition among the rocks, going to sleep with a dirty shirt and mouthful of sand, without even the consolation of being afterwards laid out in clean linen, to make luncheon for vultures ; but since it takes a complication of these diversions to compose a veritable sea life, we banished perspective danger, and indulged in speculations upon the pleasures of port.
Chapter II
u The far ships lifting their sails of white Like joyful hands ; come up with scatter'd light, Come gleaming up, true to the wished for day, And chase the whistling brine, and swirl into the bay.''
Remini. of Leigh Hunt.
The approach to Rio Janeiro, so far as God's fair handiwork is considered, presents a hold, natural, and striking grandeur, and is, perhaps, unsurpassed "by that of any other land on earth. The mountains spring abruptly from the sea, in massive, well-defined outline, assuming at different points the most fanciful and grotesque shapes. Those to the southward make in goodly proportion the figure of a man reclining on his back, even to feet and eyes, while further inland are seen the narrow tube-like cones of the Organ Mountains, shooting high up into the sky, and then lower down, and around, are strewn lesser hills, sweeping and undulating from vale to vale, in an endless succession of picturesque beauty.
Passing the strait that opens into the bay, which appears narrower than it really is, from the steep sides of adjacent heights, the river expands, and stretching away on either shore, lie graceful curves and indentations, whose snowy beaches are fringed with pretty dwellings, half hidden beneath the richest tropical foliage. To the left stands the city, built amidst a number of elevations, but like Lisbon, it has neither spire nor dome to relieve the eye along the horizon. Yet this drawback is in a measure lost sight
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