The American metropolis, from Knickerbocker days to the present time

Front matter

TO MY MOTHER

A DESCENDANT OF ANNEKE JANS

THIS WORK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

Introduction

BY

CHARLES H. PARKHURST, D.D., |.L.D.

We live for the future, but our roots are hidden in the past, and any one who has the genius to make the past more truly real and alive nourishes those roots and makes that future more bright and prolific. The volume herewith presented is the outcome of a revival of the civic spirit as that revival has come to its experience and expression in the thoughts and activities of one particular man.

This civic revival is, however, something more concrete than any mere quickening along general lines: it is rather the revival of civic devotion in its detailed relations to specific locality. It is a great thing to love one's entire country; but there is such a thing as the concentration of patriotism upon one's own town or city. We are all too thoroughly American to be disposed to disparage na-

INTRODUCTION

tional loyalty; but what is gained in width is very apt to be sacrificed in intensity, and it is intensity always rather than diffusion that does the world's work.

The thing accordingly which the residents of a city — of our own City, for instance — particularly need is to have their civic regards focused upon home ground. The better our City is, the more we can love it; but it is only by loving it more that it can become better, and before we can love it more we need to know it more. Neither a generality nor an ambiguity can excite affection. Love loses its way in the dark.

It augurs well for our municipal future, therefore, that so many earnest and intelhgent efforts are being put forth to make our acquaintance with New York Citj' more thorough and appreciative. When the time comes that the general mind has been made sensible to present conditions, and the honest consciousness of our day has penetrated to the core of our municipal character and situation, the death knell will have been sounded to much of evil that still mixes with the better ingredients and confuses our prospect.

INTRODUCTION

But not onlj' will the objects proposed by the present volumes commend themselves to every intelligent friend of the City, but the scheme of recital which the Author has adopted is itself a marked feature of the work. It will arrest the attention of his adult readers, and will be particularly grateful to the tastes and instincts of the young people, and it is upon them, primarilj^, that we have to base our hopes for the future. Youths are not fond of disquisitions, but they like to be shown things, which is exactly what Mr. Moss does in these pages. An event taken apart from its local connections is almost as uninteresting a thing as a soul would be with no body for it to be at home in. The author of "The American Metropohs" not only describes what has occurred in the history of our Citj% but knits those events to the particular spot where they have transpired, thus clothing them with the garments of reality and putting them into local relation with the streets that we are to-day walking. His idea is a clever one, and can hardly fail of catching the attention and holding the interest of the reading public, younger and older.

For myself, I personally anticipate the pleasure

INTRODUCTION

of putting myself under his guidance in the matter of acquiring a geographical appreciation of the meaning of the history of my City, and I congratulate him both on the scheme which he has worked out and on the positive service which I believe his series of itineraries will be able to render to those who will travel with him over the past years and the present territory of our beloved

City.

Charles H. Parkhurst.

We are in the midst of a revival of civic pride.

For many years the people of New York seemed to be without interest in the history of the Citj', in its reputation and in its prospects; New York and Tammany Hall were almost synonymous terms, and citizenship in this great City was nowhere esteemed to be an honor — unless it was so among the ringsters of other cities, who looked with awe at the kings of corruption that held despotic sway over the Metropolis, laughing at the laws, sneering at their critics, and rolling up thieves' fortunes. At last, indignation, tardily awakened, grew into burning patriotism, and a popular uprising, wisely directed by almost Prophetic Leadership, made an astonishing change in the government of our City — a change which is apparent in every civic function. There have been similar revolutions before, and conspicuous plunderers of the people have been hurled from positions that seemed impregnable; but, unfortunately, the hot blast of public opinion cooled almost as quickly as it had been heated, and lasting reformation of the public service was not secured. The revolutions of the past lacked foundations of civic pride and patriotic devotion in the mass of the people.

Those who helped to defeat Tammany Hall in 1894 tried to awaken in the hearts of all the people, even those who seemed the least approachable, a deep love for their City and a personal devotion to her interests, which would be potent in their antagonism to every evil political combination and to all enemies of good government. The evidences of revived patriotism among the common people are more gratifying to those who have longed and labored and sacrificed for her betterment than all the victories that have occurred in elections. Evidences of the new life are apparent in the increased interest of every class in the City's history and in its achievements from day to day; in the new sympathy that has sprung up between her different sections, and even between her different races; in the quickness with which the people estimate the spirit and the purpose of officials; in their quickness to sustain and support clean administration, and to perceive and resent official incompe-

X tence, carelessness and misconduct; and in the true ring of their voices and the quick kindling of their eyes when they converse about their City and her affairs.

The makers of books are beginning to reaUze the new interest, and the publishers' announcements contain many notices of books on New York. The magazines and the weeklies teem with articles exploiting events of the past or revealing relics of olden times, and discussing phases and phenomena of our present marvelous activity. A genuine and sustained revival of pride in our City and of patriotism applied to our own homes will make New York the richest, the best, and the most excellently administered City in the world — a Greater New York indeed.

The writing of a book of any sort was far from mj- mind, and the proposition of a pubhsher that I should venture into this field was at first rejected. He said that a book which would show a composite picture of the history of the City and of its present condition was needed, and that I ought to write it. This book is the result of the publivsher's approach. It has been written under difficulties, but the work has been so pleasant, and has given me so much more satisfactory an outlook on Metropolitan affairs, that I venture to hope it may be of interest to others and a help to more vital citizenship.

There are monumental histories of our City, prodigious in size, deep in research, and exhaustive on "gray matter," as well as on the contents of pocketbooks; but those treasuries of knowledge are not within the reach of the people generally, and they do not plainly trace the development of the City through the channels of her growth. The wonderful civilization in which we live is not the result of any revolution, but it is rather a growth from a germ once planted on a particular spot on Manhattan Island; and the branchings from the original stem can be definitely traced. It is one thing to be told that two hundred and fifty years ago the ''sturdy Dutch,'' as they are generally called, built a fort on Manhattan Island and were the first settlers; it is a different thing to go to Bowling Green and to look at the very spot where the fort was built; to walk through the very streets in which those first settlers moved, and to stand above their mouldered bones. When we do this, observing what is now on the spot where civilization first began, we begin instinctively to note the contrast between the olden times and the present, and intelligently to trace the stages of development thi-ough which the mighty and complex present has been evolved out of the simple and primitive past. For the purpose of inspiring loyalty to the great principles on which have been founded the noble achievements of New York, it is not necessary that a ponderous and philosophic tome should be written; if that were necessary some one else would have to write it. Rather should the heart, the sympathies, the tender emotions, be touched; rather should we be brought into fellowship with those who have dwelt here before us, whose labors wc enjoy, and who sustained the burdens that have passed from their shoulders on to ours, and out of their hearts into ours. Of this we may be sure, we can in no better way devote ourselves to our Country's good and Mankind's M^elfare than by advancing our own City to her highest possible position, and making her institutions means for the uplifting and the enlightenment of all the people. Let us be students and lovers of our City.

The plan of our work is simple. In its philosophy we trust it may be correct, but it is not a philosophy. Historically, we trust it is true, but it is not a history. It is a reminiscent, observant, reflective journey on historical lines. We have adopted the course which we should pursue were we showing the City to a friend. We start at the beginning point of its life, making that spot the center of interest, and returning to it again and again. The first chapter is devoted to the Fort. In the second chapter we proceed from the Fort, along the favorite road of Dutch times, Pearl Street; and make our way back to the beginning point through the Swamp, Printing Hovise Square, Nassau and William Streets, stopping at the second great development point — the site of the Sub-treasury building at the corner of Nassau and Wall Streets. The Fort at Bowling Green was the center of the old Colonial life; this second point was the focus of the new national life. We return to the Fort by way of Broad Street, and then start out again along the line of English advance, Broadway, and devote a chapter to what may be remembered and observed along that highway, including Trinitj^ and St. Paul's churches and their burj'ing grounds, and ending at the City Hall Park, be^'ond which Broadway did not extend until after the Revolution. A chapter is then devoted to the City Hall Park, which was the Commons of older days, and which was the third great development point in the life of the City. At this spot popular government had its rise. It was the gathering place and the forum of the common people. We pass on into the districts east and northeast of the Commons, including Five Points, Cherry Hill and New Israel, ^vhich together make a very dark background for the picture of heroism, growth and grandeur. Then we make our way to the East River, and return along its front to the Fort. From the Fort we start out again through Greenwich Street, going as far as the ancient Indian village of Sapokanikan, later Greenwich Village, now the Ninth Ward, returning to the Fort by the North River front. The territory thus traversed is small, but it is sufficient to show the rise and growth of the City, and is more than enough for the limits of this work.

It has been my design, whenever possible, to locate important and interesting events at the places where they happened, so that one, considering an incident which, the historians tell us, indefinitely, occurred somewhere in New York City, can go to the very place where the actors in the drama stood and spoke, and there say: "This is the spot!" In this way our interest is fastened firmly to a locality or place, and through a succession of events at that place we may see the development of principles and the increase of attainments. The three development points which I have indicated are walked over daily by multitudes, to whom the heroic history of the City is a sealed book. They would become eager investigators, if they knew what other feet had trod those walks before them, and what great events had occurred on those oft-traveled paths.

It may be that some will disagree with statements, argmnents and deductions of the book; let that be as it may, we will be one in interest, and one in devotion to our beloved City.

Frank Moss.

Contents

VOLUME ONE

Chapter One .4 Small Beginning— The Old Fort

Tolerance, the leading Characteristic of Life in New York — It grew out of the Dutch Commercial Spirit which Captured the English, and still sways New York— Dutch Trading — Dutch-English Amalgamation — The old Fort: the Germ of New York's Greatness — Dutch Streets — Dutch Religion — The first Governor — The first Dominie — The tussle between Kieft and Bogardus — The Fort, the Government House, the Dominie, the Governor, all in the Bowling Green Block together — The first Schoolmaster, his Failing and his Flogging — First sale of a Lot — First Tavern — First City Hall — Dutch Activity — Burgomasters and Schepens — Coen and Antye — The Canal Habit— The Original First Citizens— First Slave Labor— First Hanging —Indian War— White Treachery— The Twelve Men and the Eight Men — First Representatives of the People — Stuyvesant the Great— More Indian War— Treaty of Peace — First City Government— The Great Citizens — First Thoughts of Home Rule— Captured by the English — The English Flag at Bowling Green — The English and the Dutch Worship together — The Dutch again — Ousted once more— First Native Mayor — Civil War — Execution of Governor Leisler — Corruption, Pirates, Kidd — City Hall moved to Broad Street— Wedding — Fire — Suicide — xvii

CONTENTS

New Governor— Stamps— Dawn of Liberty— Uprising of the People — Non-importation Agreement — Tryon and _ Washington — Declaration of Independence — Americans seize the old Fort —Captured by the English — Evacuated — Peace— The old Fort torn down — Famous Residents — Battery Park — Castle Garden and its Noble Surroundings

Chapter Two Coxtrasts— Through Pearl Street To The

SWA3IP — PRINTING HOUSE SQUARE AND

PARK ROW

Pearl Street— Processions — Elevated Railroad — The Nations — Humors of Travel — Italians — A backward Glance — Number 19 Pearl Street: a Relic— Stuyvesant's White Hall — The Weigh House— The Royal Exchange— Old Streets- Fire of 1835— Fly Market— The United States, the first large Hotel— Hanover Square — Wingate and the Twilight Club — Hunter— Franklin Square — Walton House and its Ghost— The Harpers and their Magazine — Fires — Washington's Residence, with Reminiscences — Inauguration Parade— Cherry Street— Old Residents— The Fight at Fayal — Tlie Flag — The Swamp — Tanners and Shoemakers — The Carleton House and its Mystery — Printing House Square — The old Road — "Sun" Building — "Tribune" Building — Tammany Hall; its Ancient and Honorable Origin, its Splendid Past, its Corruption: a Contrast — St. Tammany and the Tiger — Pictures of Ancient and Modern Tammany Leaders — Park Pickpockets, formerly protected, now run out— The Stool-pigeon Plan — Newspapers — The Modern breed of Editors — Extracts from Newspapers of early and of recent Times— Exciting Times in the Square— Recolxviii

CONTENTS

lections of Greeley — The Richardson Murder — A Modern Slave Hunt— Brick Church— St. George's Park Theater — St. Paul Building — Barnum's Museum . . . 128

Chapter Three Development: From The Post-office To The

OLD CITY HALL VIA ANN STREET, HORSE

AND CART STREET, AND THE PYE

WOMAN'S STREET

Old Boston Road and New Broadway, and their Gibraltar — Ann Street — Horse and Cart Street — Roisterers, Churchgoers, Gamblers, Pickpockets, Poolsellers and Peddlers — Fire Laddies — A Police Mystery with a flavor of Richard Croker — A few of the Results of Reform — Restaurants various and innumerable — Mouquin's — Delmonico's Rival and its odd Characters — Theater Alley — Dolan's "Sinkers" and Hitchcock's "Beef an' " — Dennett's Busy Bees, and the Business Men's Quick Lunch, etc., etc. — Oysters — Garibaldi's— The Nassau Canyon— Memory of Mary Rogers, the beautiful Cigar Seller— Christ Church in Ann Street— Shoemaker's Pasture— Spring Garden— Bennett Building the first large Office Building— Jokers of other Days— Grandfather's Clock— Extracts from the first number of the "Herald"— Comparison with the "Herald" of To-day — Fair Street — Partition Street — North Dutch Church— Firemen's Hall— Moravian Church— Shakespeare Tavern— Seventh Regiment— The old Theaters- First Methodist Church— Mr. Reid's Testimony— Battle of Golden Hill— First Blood of the Revolution— Papodopolo — Washington Irving's Mischievous Boyhood— Work for xix

CONTENTS

Women— Old Memories— More old Churches— The Middle Dutch Church— A Prison for Patriots— The Graveyard— The old Bell— Aaron Burr— The Treasury— Federal Hall— The Pillory and Stocks again— Inauguration of Washington—Congress—Wall Street— De Peyster Garden— Trinity Church at one end, a Slave Market at the other— The first Bank — Immense Business Interests — Riots of 1834— The great Meeting after the Assassination of Lincoln — Garfield's Inspiration— Centennial of Washington's Inauguration 294

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

VOLUME ONE

Frank Moss, LL.D.— Frontispiece

Rev. Chas. H. Parkhurst, D.D

Map of New York in 1673 and Sky-Line of New York from Brooklyn at the

Present Day 1

Ship and AVoman 4

Picture of New York as seen from the Harbor in 1776, before the Burning of

Trmity Church 5

Old Dutch Merchant and Modern Merchant 6

William H. Wood 7

Map of the Battery, showing Changes since 1783 14

The Gracht 16

Old Dutch Life 18

The Old Fort 82

Plan of Fort George 23

Whipping of the Schoolmaster 24

Dutchman Eating Clams 37

Theodore Roosevelt 40

Coen and Antye Embracing 44

Old Bridge and Dock at the Whitehall Slip 53

Wooden Statue of Governor Stuy vesant on Broadway 66

Lord Cornburj- 86

Government House on Site of Old Fort 100

Stone Lions on Stoop of No. 17 Broadway 104

The Battery in 1869 107

Burning of the Crystal Palace 109

New York, in the Beginning 116

View of the Lower End of Manhattan Island from the Brooklyn Shore.. 117

Old Doorway of No. 8 Pearl Street 18S

Ruins of the Merchants' Exchange after the Destructive Fire of December

New York Cotton Exchange, Beaver and William Streets 141

United States Hotel, Fulton and Pearl Streets 160

Old Houses, 163 and 306 Pearl Street 163

Sitting-room of Walton House, in Pearl Street, 1840 164

Carriage Costume, and Coiffure 168

xxi

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Sugar Boiling 169

Deplorable Ignorance 170

An American Methuselah 171

Comic 172

How to Insure against Railway Accidents 173

Comic 174

Washington's Residence, Franklin House 176

Present Usage, State, and Environment of the Coach of General Washington 183

Samuel C. Reid 187

The Attack on the American Privateer "General Armstrong" in the Harbor of Fayal, Azores, September 20, 1814 189

Engine Co. No. 25,1809, Tryon Row, City Hall Square 197

Sheridan shook the Found.ation of the Tower of Strength of the Republican

Party 199

City Hall in 1822 200

First Tammany Hall 201

Second Tammany Hall 202

The Founders of Tammany 204

Present Heads of Tammany Hall 205

Tammany Kings 206

Tiger Carried on "Americus" 207

New Tammany 212

St. George's Chapel, Beekman Street 249

The St. Paul Building 253

Burning of Barnum's American Museum 257

The New York Federal Table as seen from Bunker's Hill 290

Map of New York in 1729 295

Plan of the City of New York from an Actual Survey in 1755 297

Engine No. 5, "Honey Bee" 299

Early Type of Steam Engine 301

William M.Tweed 302

An Old Time Race 303

Fire Engine Competition at Ridley's Pole 303

Old North Dutch Church 343

Shakespeare Inn, Fulton and Nassau Streets 346

First Methodist Episcopal Church, 120 WilUam Street 351

Old Houses in William Street, between Fulton and John Streets, in 1861 . . 361

French Church, Pine Street 376

First Presbyterian Church 381

First Post-Offlce, 29 William Street 383

Second Post-Office, Garden Street (Exchange Place) 3*3

Fraunces' Tavern 406

XXII

^mk

The Dutch jIap

1. Tlie Cajisfy -dividing tlie two rivers. Tlie ship is the " Suirinam," 44 kuhs, coiimianded by Capt. t'olve.

D. (iev^iiiL-. II liu\ - ITison liouse in tlie fort, built by Gov. Kieft. K. (Jcril 'I. K. I. k. Reformed Duteli Cliurch, uullt iu the

fort by Cov Ki. II Mj

F (iin .rii. Ill ~ l^.u-.^ At the northeast bastion, which was almost (■.\,i.il\ .11 III' .-iiic-r .'f H.n\ liii- (ireen and Whitehall Street, the ln->t [in i-ihl'i st,,ii,.,| ,,m mi li? - t- t;o oii,-e a nioiitii to lios-

1 Street, built!

E ZXl T^" Hi .i:3»

H.

De W:

iiih

The weifjhl

G.

Whitehall o 1

•oad Streets.

T.

leerei

(Jr:

.stadt lUV

, City Hall.

Stadt lier lerK- l-ity Tl

K.

1. Ron lee

. Redoubt, n r

— " "1_^ ^ "

SKYLINE OF NEW YORK FROl by de Nederlanders op den 24 Aug:., 1673. )v the Dutch on the 24th August. 1673.)

Published in Holland.

:cDTsrs.

and shelter was given ar Stone Street, from

Broad Street. It was he Great Dyke in 1672. xeets paved. It was earl Street. Built in

L. Luthersche Kerck. Lutheran Church, now Exchange Place.

7. Smet Street. Lower end of William Street.

R. 2. Rondeel. Now Old Slip.

M. Water-poort. The water gate.

II. The Cingle. Wall Street.

O. Land-poiirt. The land gate.

11. Maagde paetje. Maiden Lane.

N Sniidt.s' Vly smith's Valley. Foot of Maiden Lane and site of Fly JIarket.

Q. Wint molen. Windmill, near Broadway, between Liberty and Cortliiiidt streets.

r. WeK na't versche water. The way to the fresh water— the way to Ciillect Pond: the site of the Toml)«.

I AT THE PRESENT DAY.

IN ALL ITS VARIOUS PHASES