Jewell's Crescent city illustrated

Introduction

' City in the United States, of equal population^ commercial importance and material ii^ealth, ii

so little known by the outside world as Hew Orleans. And yet its history, full of romantic incident

. and legendary lore is in itself sufficient to fill a volume^ whilst its peculiar characteristics, local

institutions, and singular manners and customs of its people would furnish material for a work of

larger scope than is designed by the author of this publication.

It is however, his object and desire to present to the reader, in an attractive and sticcinct form, a brief historical outline of the most prominent features that contribute to make the Crescent City the great metropolis of the South and South'-West, and prove the intelligence, enterprise and progressive spirit of its citizens. It is also his design to produce such a work as will disseminate a more general knowledge of the local history of Hew Orleans and will, in a great degree, demonstrate its immense resources, advantages and attractions, and at the same time fiirnish such information.as will engage the attention of the casual reader and command the serious consideration of capitalists, immigrants and the commercial world.

In the preparation of this volume, comprising as it does, a vast amount of information and a great variety of subjects, the author has been materially assisted by the contributions of a number of literary friends whose valuable services he desires to publicly acknowledge. The Hon. Charles Gayarre, Prof. D. K. Whittaker, Prof. Alex. Dimitry, Hon. Wm. M. Burwell, Albert Fabre, Esq., E. W. Halsey, Esq., Judge Alexander Walker and Mr. E. C. Hancock, of the Hew Orleans "Times," and Mr. J. A. Quintero, of the " (Picay:ine," have all lent the aid of their graceful pens to the pages of the Crescent City Illustrated. To say tJtat all of these gentlemen are recognized as writers of the highest order of literary talent would only be to accord them their welUmerited reputation. Extracts also have been made from "Herman's History of Hew Orleans f and other volumes have contributed interesting statistics which have been carefully compiled and arranged.

If this volume, prepared with much care and labor, will in any way contribute towards giving additional information or throwing more light upon the general history of Hew Orleans and tend to remove the unreasonable and unjust prejudices that exist through ignorance of its true character, the highest object in view will have beenftdly attained and the richest reward obtained by

THE AUTHOR.

New Orleans, Jan. 1st. 1873.

c:i)e Buccessful anU !)»5!)ls cstcemrt Ittcrctant;

€;i)e tottotaftle, !)iSl)=tottP^» a«^ eiemplarg J»an ;

THIS WORK IS

(^spifrtfttllg ^<«Iiat*i

AS AN

$oidmce of Ippreciaiion of Iruc loraf loctli. and as a lolcn of £raim&ranee of years gone ^y so fondfy cnctisnea

BY 1^EE AVTMOm.

JiTew Orleans, January, 1873.

i^

If CIf¥,

^isW^

Slow sweeping from a bleak northwestern clime, Where snow-storms beat and forests rise sublime, Till, gathering strength, as southward rolls his course, To Mexicana's Gulf descends his force; Monarch of streams! great Mississippi flows, While on his breast the fervid sunbeam flows.

And, rising near his disemboguing tide. The Crescent City sits in queenly pride; The spires ascend, a coronet on high, Her gardens bloom with every floral dye; Her thronging marts a varied croivd display. The merchant prince, the dame in rich array. The wan=eyed beggar, and the tradesman keen, The brisk attorney with his eager mien. And sapient age, with tottering step and slow, Walks side by side with youth in freshest glow ; From different lands collected strangers meet. Are borne in cars or move along the street.

(But white and solemn, midst the ceaseless tread, (ki%e, here and there, the dwellings of the dead ! Whose peopled mansions never sound repeat, Save song-birds' wail, at evening, clear and sweet.

The floating palace on the grand old stream. The thundering iron horse impelled by steam, ^our in her lap rich treasures from all lands. As, Queen of Trade, the Crescent Empress stands!

J^ew Orleans, January, iSjj.

t

New Orleans, the Metropolis of the South, stands on the right side of the Mississippi, in ascending, ninety-two miles from its mouth. The river here makes a considerable bend to the northeast, and the city occupies the northwestern side, although its situation is east of the general course of the stream. It is in latitude 29° 57 north, longitude 90° 8 ' west ; by the river 301 miles below Natchez ; 1220 miles below St. Louis ; 1040 below Cairo, at the mouth of the Ohio ; 2004 below Pittsburg ; and 1244 southwest from Washington city.

In 1718, Bienville, then Governor of the province, explored the banlts of the Mississippi, in order to choose a spot for the chief settlement, which had hitherto been at Biloxi. He selected the present site, and left fifty men to clear the ground, and erect the necessary buildings. Much opposition was made, both by the military and the directors of the Western Company, to removing the seat of government to this place. Another obstacle, for a while, threatened almost insurmountable difficulties to his design. In 1719, the Mississippi rose to an extraordinary height ; and, as the company did not possess sufficient force to protect the spot from inundation, by dykes and levees, it was for a time abandoned. In the November of 1722, however, in pursuance of orders, Delorme removed the principal establishment to New Orleans. In the following year, agreeably to Charlevoix, it consisted only of one hundred cabins, placed with little order, a large wooden warehouse, two or three dwelling-houses, and a miserable store-house, which had been used as a chapel, a mere shed being then the only accommodation afforded for a house of prayer. The population did not exceed two hundred. Thus commenced what is now called the " Crescent City ; ' which, in a commercial point of view, and in proportion to the number of its inhabitants, has not an equal on the face of the globe.

During the same year, a party of German emigr.ints, who had been disappointed by the financier. Law, of settling on lands granted to him in Arkansas, descended the river to New Orleans, in the hope of obtaining passage to France ; but the government being either unwilling or unable to grant it, small allotments of land were apportioned them, on what is now called the Geiman Coast. These people supplied the city with garden stuffs ; and most of then- descendants, with large accessions from the old country, still cultivate the same land, upon a much improved scale.

In September of this year, the capital was visited by a terrible hurricane, which levelled to the ground the church, if such it might be called, the hospital, and thirty houses ; and three vessels that lay in the river were driven ashore. So destructive was it to the crops and gardens, that a scarcity of provisions was the consequence ; and such was the distress, that several of the inhabitants seriously thought of abandoning the colony.

In the summer of 1727, the Jesuits and Ursuline nuns arrived. The fathers were placed on a tract of land now forming the lowest part of the fauxbourg St. Mary. The nuns were temporarily lodged in a house in the corner of Chartres and Bienville streets — but, soon after, the company laid the foundation of the edifice in Cond6 and Ursuline streets, to which they were removed in 1730 ; this place was occupied by them until the gi'eat value of the land induced them to divide the larger jiortion of it into lots. Their new convent was erected about two miles below the city, and there they removed in 1824. At this period, the council house and jail were built, on the upper side of the Cathedral.

In 1763, Clement XIII expelled the Jesuits from the dominions of the kings of France,- Spain and Naples. They were, consequently, obliged to leave Louisiana. Their property in New Orleans was seized, and sold for about one hundred and eighty thousand dollars. At the time of the expulsion of this order, they owned the gi'oundg which are now occupied by the first District. The valuable buildings in which they dwelt, were situated in Gravier and Magazine streets. Some of them were pulled down to make room for the late banking-house of the Canal bank, on the corner of those streets. It is computed, that more than one half of the real estate in this city, is derived from the confiscation of the property of the Jesuits, under legal proceedings had by order of the French government. The archives of the city contain many intei'- esting and cui-ious documents in relation to these pi'oceedings, that are well worth examination.

The first visitation of the yellow fever was in 1769. Since that time it has continued to be almost an annual visitor. It was introduced into this contitent, in the above named year, by a Jiritl-ih vessel, from the coast of Afiica, with a carrfo of slaves. In addition to this affliction, (the yellow fever above alluded to,) the colony was, during the year 1769, transferred to Spain, and the capital was taken possession of by O'Reilly, with a show of military power, and an individual disposition to oppress, that brought equal disgrace upon himself, and upon the government that commissioned him. The commerce of this city suffered very much from the resti-ictive colonial system of Spain. This, however, was removed in 1778, (a year memorable for a fire that burnt nine hundred houses at one time) and, in 1782, the mercantile interest of the place was benefited by still further extended privileges of trade.

The census of 1785 gives to the city a population of 4,780, exclusive of the settlements in the immediate vicinity.

In consequence of the commercial advantages above alluded to, a number of merchants from France established themselves here, and British trading vessels navigated the Mississippi. They were a species of marine pedlers, stopping to trade at any house, by making fast to a tree, and

JEWELL'S CRESCENT CITY LLUSTRATED.

receiving in payment for merchandize, whatever the planter had to spare, or giving him long credits. The Americans, at that time, commenced the establishment of that trade from the west to New Orleans, which has been steadily increasing ever since. The idea of this traffic was first conceived by General "Wilkinson. A lucrative business was also conducted by the Philadelphians, which the colonial authorities winked at for a while ; but the Spanish minister, finding that he did not pai-ticipate in the profits of it, as the Americans refused to comply with his hints to consign to his friends, put a stop to it. He procured a list of the names of the vessels, severely reprimanded the intendant, Navarro, and so worked upon his fears that he began to prosecute all infi'ingements of the revenue laws, seizing the vessels, confiscating the goods and imprisoning the owners, captains and crews. The venal minister, perceiving that he had rendered himself extremely unpopular by his intermeddling with the conmierce between Philadelphia and New Orleans, finally released all the individuals he had imprisoned, restoring the confiscated property, and discontinuing any further interference. The trade immediately received a new impulse and was greatly increased. General Wilkinson at the same time obtained permission to send one or more launches loaded with tobacco, from Kentucky.

Soon after, many Americans availed themselves of a privilege which was granted, of settling in the country.

Tlie first company of French comedians aiTived here in 1791. They came from Cape Francois, whence they made their escape from the revolted slaves. Others from the same quarter opened academies — the education of youth having hitherto been confined to the priests and nuns.

The baron Carondelet, in 1792, divided the city into four wards. He recommended lighting it, and employing watchmen. The revenue did not amount to seven thousand dollars, and to meet the chai-ges for the purchases of lamps and oil, and to pay watchmen, a tax of one dollar and an eighth was levied upon chimneys.

He also commenced new fortifications around the capital. A fort was erected where the mint now stands, and another at the foot of Canal street. A strong redoubt was built in Rampart street, and at each of the angles of the now city proper. The Baron also paid some attention to training the militia. In the city, there were four companies of volunteers, one of artillery, and two of riflemen, consisting of one hundred men each, making an aggregate force of 700 men.

A great extension was given to business in February of this year. The inhabitants were now permitted to trade freely in Europe and America, wherever Spain had formed treaties for the regulation of commerce. The merchandise thus imported, was subject to a duty of fifteen per cent. ; and exports to six per cent. With the Peninsula it was free.

In 1795 permission was granted by the king to citizens of the United States, diiring a period of Iwa years, to deposit merchandise at New Orleans. The succeeding year, the city was visited by another conflagration, which destroyed many houses. This reduced the tax upon chimneys so much, that recourse was had to assessing wheat bread and meat, to defi-ay the expense of the city light and watch.

At the time of the transfer to the United States, the public property consisted of two large brick stores, running from the levee on each side of Main street, (which were burnt in 1822,) — a government house, at the comer of Levee and Toulouse streets, (which also suffered a similar fate in 1826,) — a military hospital, and a powder magazine, on the opposite side of the river, which was abandoned some years since — an old frame custom house — extensive barracks below those now remaining — ^five miserable redoubts, a town house, market house, assembly room and prison, a cathedral and presbytery, and a charity hospital. At this memorable era, the grounds which now constitute that thriving portion of the city, then known as the second municipality, were mostly used as a plantation. It was the property of a wealthy citizen named Gravier, after whom one of the principal streets that runs through the property has been called. How has the scene changed ? At this moment it contains a population of nearly fifty thousand, and has become the centre of the business, and enterprise, and beauty of the city.

In 1804, New Orleans was made a port of entry and delivery, and Bayou St. John a port of delivery. The first act of incorporation was granted to the city, by the legislative council of the territory, in 1805, under the style of " the Mayor, Aldermen and inhabitants of the city of New Orleans. " The officers were a mayor, a recorder, fourteen aldermen and a treasurer. This year a branch of the United States Bank was established in this capital.

The population of the city and suburbs in 1810, amounted to 24,552 ; having been trebled in seven years, under the administration of its new government. The prosperity of its trade increased in an equal ratio.

At that time the city extended no further down than Esplanade street, with the exception of here and there a villa scattered along the leeve ; nor above, further than Canal street, lonless occasionally a house occupj'ing a square of ground. A few dwellings had been erected on Canal and Magazine streets, but it was considered to be getting quite into the country, to go beyond the Polar Star Lodge, which was at the comer of Camp and Gravier streets.

There was not then a paved street in the city. The late Benjamin Morgan, who, some time after, made the first attempt, was looked upon as a visionary. The circumstance which gave an impulse to improvements in the second municipality, was the erection of the American theatre, on Camp street, by James H. Caldwell, Esq., the only access to which, for a long time, was over flatboat gunwales. This was in 1823 — 4. He was ridiculed for his folly, and derided as a madman — but time proved his foresight. He was soon followed by a crowd that gave life and energy to that section ; and, in a few years, through the enterprise of others of a similar spirit, the then subui'b of St. Mary reached its present advanced state of elegance and prosperity.

LC!

m

W'

if"^

1^

Lb''

(p

JEWELL'S CRESCENT CITY ILLUSTRATED.

The block where the Auctioneer's Exchange has since been built, was then occupied by a row of frail wooden shanties; and the corner of Royal and Custom house streets, where the bank now stands, was tenanted by Scott, who furnished food for his hundreds a day directly opposite, and who laid the foundation of his fortune in the tenement that was removed to make room for the present beautiful edifice.

ARCHITECTUUE.

The houses are chiefly constructed with bricks, except a few ancient and dilapidated dwellings in the heart of the city, and some new ones in the outskirts. Wooden buildings are not permitted to be built, under present regulations, within what are denominated the fire limits. The modern structures, particularly in the First District, are generally three and four stories high, and are embellished with handsome and substantial granite, marble or iron fronts. The public buildings are numerous ; and many of them will vie with any of the kind in our sister cities.

The view of New Orleans from the river, in ascending or descend.ng, is beautiful and imposing — seen from the spire of St. Patrick's Church, it presents a panorama at once magnificent and surprising. In taking a lounge through the lower pai-t of the city, the sti'anger finds a difficulty in believing himself to be in an Ameiican city. The older buildings are of ancient and foreign construction, and the manners, customs and language are various — the population being composed, in nearly equal proportions, of American, French, Creoles, and Spaniards, together with a lai'ge portion of Gennans and Irish and a good sprinkling from almost every other nation upon the globe.

In the summer of 184-1, a fire destroyed about seven blocks of buildings between Common and Canal streets, near the charity Hospital. The ground has since been occupied with much better buildings, and presents a very improved appearance.

POrULATlON,

The population of New Orleans, after it was ceded to the United States, increased very rapidly. At the time of the transfer, there were not eight thousand inhabitants.

Ulacks. 8,001

19,737

21,280

21,614

28,530

01,431

149,063

140,923

Total.

24,552

32,947

41,350

45,336

49,826

102,191

119,460

174,491

191,413 and at the present period there are, probably two hundred and twenty thousand. During 1844 there were more buildings erected than any previous year — notwithstanding which, tenements are in great demand, and rents continue high.

BOARD OF UEALTU.

The first ordinance for the establishment of a board of health in this city, (so far as known,) was passed by the general council in June, of 1 v 1. The board consisted of nine members — three aldermen, three physicians, and three private citizens. It was invested with ample powers to adopt and enforce such sanitary regulations as were thought conducive to the health of the city. This board performed all its functions well during the first year of its existence. The second year there was a falling off; but a dissolution did not take place till 1843. In 1844, the board of health having ceased to officiate, the general council invited the medico-chirurgical society to take charge of this duty. This proposition was accepted, and a committee of nine members appointed, with full power to act as a board of health.

SOCIETY.

Society, as at present constituted in New Orleans, has very little resemblance to that of any other city in the Union. It is made up of a heterogeneous mixture of almost all nations. First, and foremost, is the Creole population. All who are born here, come under this designation, without reference to the birth place of their parents. They form the foundation, on which the superstructui'C of what is tenned " society," is erected. They are remarkably exclusive in their intercourse with others, and, with strangers, enter into business arrangements with extreme caution. They were once, and very properly, considered as the patricians of the land. But they are not more distinguished for their exclusiveness, and pride of family, than for their habits of . punctuality, temperance and good faith.

CHARACTER OF THE 1'01'ULATIOX.

Till about the commencement of the present century, the period of the transfer of Louisiana to the United States, the Creoles were almost entirely of French and Spanish parentage. Now, the industrious Gei'mans, the shrewd and persevering Irishmen, are beginning to be quite numerous, and many of them have advanced to a condition of wealth and respectability.

Next come the emigrants from the sister States, from the mighty west, from the older sections of the south, and (last not least) from the colder regions of the north, the enterprising, calculating, hardy Yankee.

Then come the nondescript watermen. Our river steam navigation, averaging, during half the year, some three hundred arrivals per month, fui'nishes a class of fifteen thousand men, who have few if any parallels in the world. The numberless flatboats that throng the levees for an immense distance, ai'e peopled and managed by an amphibious race of luunan beings, whose mode of living is much like that of the alligator, with whom they ironically claim relationship, but who cai'iy under their rough exterior and uncouth manners, a heart as generous and noble as beats in any human breast. They are the children of the Mississippi, as the Arabs are of the great desert, and, like them, accustomed to encounter danger in eveiy shape. Combining all ttie most striking peculiarities of the common sailor, the whaleman, the backwoodsman, and the Yankee, without imitating, or particularly resembling any one of them, they are a class entirely by themselves, unique, eccentric, original, a distinct and unmistakeable featui'e in the float-

JEWELS CRESCENT CITY ILLUSTRATED.

ing mass that swamis on the levees, and treads the streets, of the Cresent City.

Among them may be found the representatives of nearly all the states. Some are descendants of the Pilgrims, and have carried with them the industrious habits, and the strict moral principles, of their Puritan forefathers, into the wilds of the West. They are all active, enterprising, fearless, shrewd, independent, and self-sufficient, and often aspiring and ambitious, as our halls of legislation, and om' business circles can testify. They are just the stuff to lay the broad foundations of freedom in a new country-^able to clear the forest, and till the soil, in time of peace, to defend it in war, and to govern it at all times.

Of the two hundred and fifty thousand souls, who now occupy this capital, about twenty thousand may be estimated as migratory. These are principally males, engaged in the various departments of business. Some of them have families at the North, where they pass the summer. Many are bachelors, who have no home for one half the year, and, if the poets are to be believed, less than half a home for the remainder. As these two classes of migratory citizens, who live at the hotels and boarding-houses, embrace neai'ly, if not quite, one third the business men of the city, it may serve to some extent, to accout for the seemingly severe restrictions by which the avenues to good native society ai'e protected. Unexceptionable character, certified beyound mistake, is the only passport to the domestic circle of the Creole. With such credentials their hospitality knows no limits. The resident Americans are less suspicious in admitting you to their hospitality, though not more liberal than their Creole neighbors, when once their confidence is secui'ed.

The restrictions thus thrown around society, and the great difficulty which the new comer experiences in securing a shai'e in those social enjoyments to which he has been accustomed in other places, have had an unfavorable effect upon the morals of the place. Having no other resource for pastime, when the hours of business are over, he flies to such public entertainments as the city affords. And if these are not always what they should be, it behooves us to provide better. Public libraries, reading rooms, galleries for the exhibition of the fine arts, lyceums for lectures, and other kindred rational amusements, would do much to establish a new and better order, and to break down those artificial barriers, which separate so many refined and pui'e minded men from the pleasiu-es and advantages of general society, condemning them to live alone and secluded, in the midst of all that is lovely and attractive in the social relations of life.

HEALTH OF THE CITY.

The character of New Orleans, in respect to health, has been much and unjustly abused. At the north, in ratio to their population, the consumption annually destroys more than the yellow fever of the south. Patients with pulmonary complaints, resort to these latitudes for relief, where such diseases are otherwise rarely known. In truth, this capital shows a more favorable bill of mortality, than any seaport town in the United States.

MORALS.

There is little to be said in favor of the morals of New Orleans, during the first few years after its cession. Report made them much worse than they were. As the community was composed of some of the worst classes of society, gathered from every region under the sun, nothing very good was to be expected. But circumstances have changed. A system of wholesome police regulations has been introduced and enfoi'ced, which has either brought the desperate and the lawless under subjection, or expelled them from the community. By reference to the statistics of crime, in other commercial cities in proportion to the number of inhabitants, the stranger will be convinced that this City has reason to be proud of her standing. Personal security in the public streets, at all hours, is never endangered — and females may venture out after dark, without a protector, and be free from insult and molestation.

THE PROFESSIONS.

The learned professions here, generally, stand preeminently high. The science of medicine may boast of a talent and a skill, that would confer honor upon any city in the Union — and the few empirics that disgrace the practice, are so well known,that the evil is circumscribed within very narrow limits. The clergy are proverbial for their learning and eloquence — and the same remarks will apply with equal force to members of the bar.

PUBLIC LIBRARY.

This city, at the preSfent time, possesses no public library. Considering the population, and their ability, this must be regarded as a blot upon the intelligence of its citizens. This is completely a commercial community, however, and money is the universal ambition. Thence springe that acknowledged deficiency in literature and the fine arts, observable to the stranger. But shall it still remain? le there no Girard — no Astor — among our millionaires, who will leave behind them a monument which shall make their names dearer and more honored in all coming time, than those of heroes and conquorers ?

SOCIETIES.

The Masonic fraternity in New Oi'leans appears to enjoy all their ancient privileges. There are some sixty-five lodges, besides a grand lodge and an encampement. Here is a large number of the order of Odd Fellows, and one of Equal Fellows — a Typographical Union, and Mechanics, Hibernian, St. Andrews, Gei-man, and Swiss societies. These are all, more or less, of a benevolent nature ; and within their own circles, have all been extremely serviceable.

THE MISSISSIPPI.

The navigation of the Mississipi, even by steamboats, in 1818, was extremely tedious. The Etna is recorded as arriving at Shipping port, a few miles below Louisville, in

JEWELL'S CRESCENT CITY ILLUSTRATED.

DB. WARREX STONE.

JEWELL'S ORESCENT CITY ILLUSTRATED.

United States Depositoff & Financial Agenl,

OmCEI^S:

JOSEPH H, OGLESBY, President,

A. LURIA, Cashier.

r>II?,ECTOR.S:

J. F. D. LANIER, W. A. JOHNSON.

J. N. LEA, T. L. AIREY,

JOSEPH H. OGLESBY.

Iiicorf>orated, December 30th., 1865.

Commenced Business, January 18th, 1866.

CAPITAL STOCK, $1,000,000.

Mmp& m FwMm^ $M&9 Q/QB*

Total Not EarningB, Oommencement of Business. [eJclnBhe of taxes] to July 1,1872. $712,272,37.

Total Dividendi, Commenoement of Business, [exclusive of taxes] to Julv 1, 1872, $530,000.

JEWELL'S CRESCENT CITY ILLUSTRATED.

thirty-two days. The Governor Shelby in twenty-ttco days, was considered as a remark.ibly short passage. An hermaphrodite brig was seventy one days from New Orleans — and a keel boat one hundred and one ; the latter to Louisville. Now the time occupied iafoitr io five days.

During the business season, which continues from the first of November to July, the levee, to the extent of five miles, is crowded with vessels of all sizes, but more especially ships, from every part of the world — with hundreds of immense floating castles and palaces, called steamboats ; and barges and flatboats innumerable. ' No place can present a'more busy, bustling scene. The loading and unloading of vessels and steamboats — the transportation, by some three thousand drays, of cotton, sugar, tobacco and the various and extensive produce of the great West, strikes the stranger with wonder and admii'ation. The levee and piers that range along the whole length of the city, extending back on an average of some two hundred feet, are continually covered with moving merchandize. This was once a pleasant promenade, where the citizen enjoyed his delightful morning and evening walk ; but now there is scarcely room amid hogsheads, boxes and bales, for the business men to crowd along, without a sharp lookout for his personal safety.

COMMERCIAL EMPOUITJM.

The position of New Orleans, as a vast commercial emporium, is unrivalled — as will be seen by a single glance at the map of the United States. As the depot of the West, and the half-way house of foreign trade, it is almost impossible to anticipate its futvu-e magnitude.