History of Saco and Biddeford, with notices of other early settlements, and of the proprietary governments, in Maine, including the provinces of New Somersetshire and Lygonia

Front matter

A o

0'

-P

Part First

1. Voyages of discovery.

2. Paients from the King, and the Council of Plymouth.

3. First permanent settlements.

4. Jurisdictions established.

5. Notict^s of the Gorges ; Rich. Vines ; Robert Child.

6. Eariy Clergymen.

7. Usurpation of Mass. Bay. Government of the

Kind's Commissioners.

8. Commencement of the town records. Purchase of

the Biddeford patent by William Phillips.

9. Notict-s of the first Colonists.

10. Minii.^ters. — Sttli Fletcher; Barnabas Chauncy;

William Milburne.

11. Government resumed by Mass. Bay. Sale of the

Province.

12. First Indian War.

13. Maj. Phillips. Brian Pendleton. Benj. Blackman.

14. Division of Lewis and Bonython's patent. Names

of the inhabitants.

15. Troubles with the Indians. Chronology.

Part Second

1. Re-settlement of the town. The name Biddeford

adopted. Divisions of estates.

2. Indian War.

3. Ministers. Settlement of Rev. Samuel Willard.

4. Sfctilenicnt of Rev. Moses Morrill. Notices of the

inhabitants. Indian troubles. 6. Division o* H. Scamman's estate. Sir V»\ Peppereil. Physicians. Merchants. Mechanics.

6. East side of the river incorporated. Settlement of

Rtrv. John Fairfield. Governor Sullivan. Physicians. Roads and Bridges.

7. Revolntiona*} War.

8. Notices of inhr,bitants. Religious Societies.

9. Attorneys. Late impiovtments, &tc.

HISTORY

OF

SACO AJSD BinnEFORD.

Chapter I

The discovery of New England may be justly ascribed to Bartholomew Gosnold, an enterprising and intelligent navigator, who in the year 1602, performed a voyage to this part of North America, before unknown to the civilized world. The Cabots had indeed sailed along the whole coast of the United States as early as 1497, but without setting foot on any part of it.* During the succeeding century, the discovery of the river St. Lawrence, and a partial exploration of the coasts of Virginia and Florida, in the course of a few unsuccessful attempts to plant colonies in that quarter, comprised nearly all that was contributed towards a further knowledge of North America. At the period of Gosnold's voyage, no permanent settlement had been made by civilized nations north of the Spanish province of Mexico ; from Florida to Greenland, says an accurate writer, not one European family could be found. f Although the discovery of the

*ilees' Cyclop. Art. America. tPrince N. E. Chronology. 1.

New world seems to have been at first duly appreciated in Europe, where it was proclaimed as the most remarkable event of the age, the North American continent was thus suffered to remain unoccupied, and for the most part unexplored, for more than a century after its existence Was made known.

Gosnold had sailed to Virginia in the service of Sir Walter Raleigh by the old and circuitous route of the Canary isles and the West Indies. The voyage of 1602 was undertaken to prove that a shorter and more direct course to America was practicable. On the 26 March in that year, he set sail from Falmouth in a small vessel, accompanied by a few adventurers who embarked with the design of forming a colony in Virginia. The first land they discovered after a passage of seven weeks, was in latitude about forty three degrees north ; and is supposed to have been some part of Maine. It has even been said that they landed on our coast, but this statement is believed to be incorrect. Continuing their course to the south, they discovered the southern shore of Massachusetts and disembarked on an adjacent island, called by thenj Elizabeth island, a name it retains to this day. Here they remained six weeks, visited the neighboring shore, and trafficked with the natives. The colonists made preparations for a permanent abode ; built a storehouse and fort, the remains of which may be still seen* ; but on more mature deliberation, being ill supplied with the means of subsistence and of defence against the natives, should they prove hostile, they relinquished this design and all returned to England. Beside accomplishing the chiefl object of his voyage, by marking out a course nearly one third shorter than that which had been hitherto purstie.i-)", Gosnold awakened the spirit of enterprise in England by favorable representations of the country he had I accidentally discovered. Several of the adventurers who i accompanied hisn, after their return published glowing descriptions of the fertility and delightful aspect of

■Belkn, Am. Biog. II. 115. tRobertson's America, book IX § 29.

these northern shores. "From tlie island," says one of them,* "we went right over to the mayne, where we stood a while as ravished at the beautie and dilicacy of the sweetnesse, besides divers cleare lakes whereof we saw no end, and meadows very large and full of greene grasse, &ic." They sowed several kinds of grain by way of experiment, which "in 14 days sprung up 9 inches." Among the spontaneous productions of the soil were "ground nuts as big as egges, as good as Potatoes, and 40 on a string, not two ynches under ground."

A country invested with so many charms, did not fail to captivate the imaginations of many adventurers. The shortness of the voyage also furnished an inducement to new enterprises in the same direction. Through the influence of Richard Hakluyt, a clergyman of Bristol, already distinguished by his labors for the advancement of geographical knowledge, the corporation and merchants of that city engaged to fit out two vessels for the further discovery of the country, which now received the name of North Virginia. These vessels, one of which was a ship of fifty tons, the other a bark of twenty six tons burthen, sailed from Bristol April 10, 1603, under the command of Martin Pring, who took for his pilot a man that had been with Gosnold the year before. Early in June they arrived on the coast of Maine, called by the natives Mavoshen, and harbored among the islands of Penobscot bay. Thence sailing towards the south and passing all the islands as far as the western part of Casco bay, they soon after entered four inlets which are thus described in the journal of the voyage :

"The most easterly was barred at the mouth, but having passed over the bar we ran up it for five miles, and for a certain space found very good depth. Coming out again as we sailed southwest, we lighted on two other inlets, which we found to pierce not far into the land. The fourth and most westerly was the best, which we rowed up ten or twelve miles. In all these places we found no people, but signs of fires where they had been."f

From this brief description Dr. Belknap infers, that "the easternmost of the four inlets which they entered, was the mouth of the river Sago. The two next were Kennebunk and York rivers, and the westernmost and best was the Pascataqua." "The reason," he adds, "of their finding no people, was that the natives were at that season (June) fishing at the falls of the rivers ; and the vestiges of fires at or near the mouths of the rivers, marked the places where they had resided and taken fish in the earlier months of spring."* We can see no good cause to doubt the accuracy of this opinion, and are thus enabled to assign the date of the discovery of the Saco to the year 1603. Capt. Pring continued his course to the southern part of Massachusetts, following the track of Gosnold, where having laden his vessels with sassafras and furs, he returned to England after an absence of six months.

A second voyage, more particularly directed to the coast of Mavoshen or Maine, was performed by this "understanding gentleman," as Pring is styled by a writer of that period, in the year 1606, under the patronage of Chief Justice Popham. The journal of this voyage appears not to have been published ; an omission which we the more regret, as Sir F. Gorges says, that a perfect discovery was then made of all the rivers and harbors on our coast, and the most exact account of it brought that he had ever received.

A geographical outline of this eastern territory, for which the materials were obtained from the journals of: these and other early visits to the shores of Maine, was drawn up by Mr. Hakluyt, and published by Samuel Purchas in his great work, entitled "Purchas his Pilgrims, or Relations of the World," &ic. The chapter containing it. Is headed, "A Description of the country of Mavooshen, discovered bv the English in the years 1602, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9."

"Mavooshen," says this writer, "is a countrey lying to the North and by East of Virginia between the degrees of

Belkn. Am. Biog. H. 126.

43 and 45.'^ It is fortie leagues broad, and fiflie in length, lying in breadth East and West, and in length North and South. It is bordered on the East side with a countrey the people whereof they call Tarrantines ; on the West with Epistoman, on the North w'ith a great wood called Senaglecouna, and on the South with the mayne ocean «.ea and many Islands. In Mavooshen it seemeth there are nine Rivers," he. The most western of these rivers is thus desci'ibed : "Seven daies journey to the South west of Ashamahaga there is another river that is sixe f^uhoms to the entrance : This river is named the Shaw^akotoc, and is halfe a mile broad ; it runneth into the lande fiftie daies journey, but foure daies from the entrance it is so narrow, that the Trees growing on each side doe so crosse with their boughs and bodies on the other as it is permitted not by any means to pass with boates that way ; for which cause the Inhabitants that on any occasion are to travel to the head, are forced to go by land, taking their way upon the West side. At the end of this River, there is a Lake of foure daies journey long and two daies broad, wherein are two Hands. To the North West foure daies journey from this Lake, at the Head of this River Shawakotoc, there is a small province which they call Crokemago, wherein is one tovvne. This is the Westernmost river of the Dominions of Bashabez."f

Such was the most accurate account of our river possessed by the English geographers at that period. The small extent of a day's journey may be estimated from the distance thus computed between the ,/Jponeg, (Sheepscot,) and the Sagadehock, which is called three days' journey, but is only about twelve iniles. No European, probably, had yet explored the country far beyond the mouths of the principal rivers, and the information of navigators respecting their sources and extent, must have been derived from the inexact descriptions of the natives. The supreme sachem who governed the country of Mavoshen, and bore the title of Basbaba, is

*The sea-coast of Maine is comprehended almost exactly within these limits. IFurchas. lib. X. c. G. Third Edition printed 16J7. 3* repeatedly noticed by the first voyagers to this const, and is said to have resided near the Penobscot. The subordinate chiefs, somewhat like the feudal barons, exercised a separate authority over their respective tribes. The province of Crokernago, probably, included the famous tribe of the Pequawkets whose principal town, known to have been of great antiquity, occupied nearly the site of Fryeburg. The large ponds in that vicinity were doubtless considered by them the sources of the Saco ; one of which, the upper Kezar, principally in the town of Lovell, is about 15 miles in length, and from one to two miles in breadth, and contains two or three islands. The principal branch of the Saco, the Great Ossippee, terminates in a small lake ; on this river, also, was seated a considerable Indian village.*

A name similar to that in the preceding extract, was applied to our river by the celebrated Capt. Smith, who examined the coast from Penobscot w^estw^ard in 1614, and two years after putjlished a description of the country under the general name of New England. After describing the Kennebec, Smith proceeds : "Westward of this river is the country of Aucocisco (Casco) in the bottom of a large deep bay, full of many great isles, which divide it into many good harbors. Saw^ocotuck is the next, in the edge of a large sandy bay, which hath many rocks and isles, but few good harbors except for barks, (that) I yet know."f Omitting the last syllable of this word, which was doubtless done for the sake of brevity, we have nearly the present name of the river. Smith drew a mapof N.Etigland, with the Indian names of rivers, islands, he. and presented it to Prince, afterwards King, Charles, who at his request substituted English names in their stead. A few only of these were adopted by the inhabitants, when the country was settled. The name of Ipswich was bestow^ed on the Saco, but there is no reason to suppose it was ever used. The Kennebec was called Edinboro' ; Agamenticus river, Boston, &ic. J

'"Sullivan. 228. fSmith's Virginia. II. 193.

tibid. II. 177. There was a small tribe of Indians within the colony of Plymouth called Sawcntuckeis. They lived in the western part of Harwich. Mass. Hist. Coll. I. 197. Prince. 03.

It can scarcely be a subject of regret that the aboriginal names have been retained in so many instances. Although often not remarkably euphonious, they serve to keep alive the memory of the former possessors of the soil, of whom so few vestiges remain. The deep feeling of interest excited by the unhappy fate of the powerful tribes, once inhabiting the banks of our rivers and lakes, is impressed on whatever survives the wreck of their fortunes, if it be only a name.

The French were somewhat behind the English in making voyages of discovery to the American continent. In 1524, John Verazzano, an Italian, in the service of the king of France, sailed along the coast Irom Florida to Labrador, and gave to the whole extent of territory the name of New France. Notwithstanding the discovery of the Cabots nearly thirty years previous, this navigator was regarded as having given to France a title to the greater part of North America, as the original discoverer. But it was not until early in the following century, that a permanent settlement vi^as commenced by people of that nation on the shores of the new world. In 1603 the Sieur de Monts received a commission from his sovereign for the government of New France. His jurisdiction extended from the 40th to the 46th degree of north latitude. In the following year, De Monts arrived on the coast of Nova Scotia, then called Cadie or Acadie,* accompanied by Samuel de Champlain, who had ascended the St. Lawrence the year before and obtained much information respecting the country. A small settlement was made on the island St. Croix, where they passed the winter, and the next season changed their location to Port Royal, now Annapolis, N. S.

In the meantime, De Monts and Champlain explored the coast toward the south fof the purpose of selecting suitable places to establish colonies. The following

*In Latin Cadia or Acadia. This word is generally supposed to be borrowed from the Arcadia of the Greeks, as Douglas, Brit. Am. derives it. But it is a different word, even with the initial «, which it often wants. Being at first restricted in its application, it was probably of Indian origin, as is Pesmo-cadie, the French orthography for Passamaquoddy. All New France was often termed Acadie.

passage from the volume published by the latter descriptive of this voyage, it is confidently believed, refei's to Saco river* and the islands near its entrance.

"Having left the Kennebec, we ran along the coast to the westward, and cast anchor under a small island near the main land where we saw twenty or more natives. I here visited an island beautifully clothed wiih a fine growth of forest trees, particularly of the oak and walnut, and overspread with vines that in their season produce excellent grapes ; the first I had seen since leaving Cape de la Heve, (N. S.) We named it the island of Bacchus. At high water we weighed anchor, and ran up a small river, barred at its mouth. There is but half a fathom of water on the bar at low tide, and about nine, sometimes twelve feet at high tide ; within there is a depth of four, five and six fathoms. As soon as we had cast anchor, a number of Indians appeared on the banks of the river and began to dance. Their chief was not among them ; he came two or three hours after with two canoes, and took a turn around our ship.. This river is called by the natives Chouacoet."f

No settlement was made by \he French at that time west of the river St. Croix. As late as ]C13, they* were not found beyond that limit except on the island of Monts Deserts, now Mount Desert, where two priests of the order of Jesuits had gathered a few adventurers in 1609. It is not a little remarkable that with all the country before them, the French should have fixed the seat of their jurisdiction so far north as Nova Scotia. Their title to that part of the territory of New France was not less defective than to a more southern position. The English regarded them. as trespassers at Port Royal, and measures were taken for their removal in 16l3.t

*Belk. Am. Biog. II. 149. tPronoiinced nearly, Shwar'co. Les Voyag;es de Sieur de Charnplain, Liv. ii. c. 3.

tBelkn. Am. Biog. I. 340 11.52. Sullivan, Hist. Maine, p. 170, sayri that "soon after Popham's party left the river (Kennebec) in 1(J08, the French t<}ok possession of it," and refers us to Hubbard as an authority for the statement ; but it finds no support in that author. Hist. i\. E 15. Ind. Narrative. 286. Hubbard says, h.)wever, that Argal found French settled at Penobscot 1G13, and is followed in Ah-

The claim of the latter people, founded on the discovery of the Cabots, extended from Newfoundland to Florida, and after various vicissitudes was ultimately sustained.

There are no definite accounts of voyages to this part of America by navigators of any other nation, unless we except Hudson in the service of the Dutch, who sailed along our coast towards the south in 1609, when he discovered the noble river that now bears his name. After that year the Dutch frequented the American coast, and established a trading house near where Albany stands as early as 1614*. A geographical work of high reputation, written in the Latin language and published soon after that period at Leyden, comprises, probably, all the information relating to the new world gathered by the early navigators of that and other nations. The author, John de Laet, was a director of the Dutch East India Company, and distinguished for his scientific as well as geographical knowledge. In the account of Cadia or Acadia, (for the word is thus differently spelled in this work,) the writer has twice described the Saco under its French and English names. The first account, of which we subjoin a plain version, was chiefly derived from Champlain, with some additions; the other is an exact translation of Smith.

"Four leagues south of the Kennebec," says this writer, "following the direction of the coast, there is a bay containing in its bosom a large number of islands, from which are seen the lofty summits of mountains on the main land.f Eight leagues beyond, the river Chouacoet opens in lat. 43 deg. 45 min. having several islands near its entrance, one of which was called by the French navigators the bot and White's Hist. Belfast. 16. But Charlevoix, the historian of New France, tome I. liv. iii does not authorize even this statement ; nor is it supported by Prince, N. F, (^hronol. 37 ; or Belknap, Am. Biog. art. Argal ; or Holmes, Am. Annals, I. 178.

It is probable enough that SulHvan was led into the error of supposing the French settled at Kennebec, by the following passage of Prince, 25 : 'Upon the colony's (Popham's) breaking up, the French settle themselves within our limits." This doubtless refers to the settlement on Monts Deserts in 1609, and to the continued encroachments of that people on the Acadian perxinsula.

*Smith's Hist, of N. York. 14. tCasco bay and the White mountains.

18 HISTOKY OF SACO

island of Bacchus and by our countrymen Wiingaerden Eyiandl, (Vineyard Island,) from the great abundance of vines found growing there. It is two leagues distant , from the main ; is agreeable to the eye from the fine ap- I pearance of the oaks and walnut trees with which it is ' stocked, and offers a good soil for cultivation. The river at its mouth is not of great depth, being not more than two fathoms at high water, but within it is three or four fathoms, and is well stored with fish. The land near the river is fertile, presenting to view either open plains, or groves of lofty firs, beeches and elms. The baibarians that inhabit here, are in some respects unlike the other aborigines of New France, differing from them both in language and manners. They shave their heads from the i, forehead to the crown, but suffer the hair to grow on the i other side, confining it in knots, and interweaving feathers of various colors. They paint their faces red or black ; are well formed, and arm themselves with spears, clubs, bows and arrows, which for the want of iron they point with the tail of a crustaceous animal, called signoc.^ They cultivate the soil in a different manner from the In- , dians who live east of them ; they plant maize (Indian j corn and striped beans together, so tiiat the stalks of the j former answer the purpose of poles for the vines to j run upon. Their fields are enclosed and kept free from j bushes ; they plant in May and harvest in September, j Walnut trees grow here, but inferior to ours; vines are 1 abundant, and it is said by the French, that the grapes { gathered in July, make good wine. The natives also raise pumpkins,f and tobacco. They have permanent j places of abode, not roving about like other savages, i Their cabins are covered with oak-bark, and are de- ' fended from the attacks of enemies by a wall of palisadoes."J

It is quite possible that De Laet supposed the Chouacoet of the French, and the Sawocotu( k of the English, to be separate streams ; an error into which he was

*The Horse-shoe. Monocnlus polyphemus. tNot indigenous, but introduced at a very early period Nultall. |Novus Orbis, (New World,) &c. lib. ii. c. V.). See Appen. A.

more likely to fall from the briefand less flattering description of Smith. Indeed, the whole const of Maine was represented by the latter as dreary and desolate. "It is a coiintrey rather to affright than deliglit one," says he, "and how to describe a more plaine spectacle of desolation or more barren, 1 know not." The French adventurers, on the other hand, described the eastern country in very agreeable terms, imparting to its numerous islands, rivers and bays, a gay and picturesque coloring, not wholly fanciful at certain brief periods of the year, when the rugged features of our northern shores are clothed with a verdure and beauty unrivalled in more genial climes. The delineations of Smith, it must be acknowledged, however, are more faithful to the general aspect of the coast. It is but fair to add the sequel of the remarks of this celebrated traveller, in which he discovers no want of penetration. "Yet are those rocky isles," continues he, "so furnished with good woods, springs, fruits, fowl and fish, that it makes me think, though the coast be rocky and thus affrightable, the vallies and plains and interior parts may well notwithstanding be very fertile."*

^Smith's Virginia. First published 1616. Capt. Smith arrived at Monheagan, April, 1614, with two ships. This island ha>i been a resort for fishermen since 1608. Smith made it the centre of his operations during the summer. "Whilst the sailors fished, myself with eight others ranged the coast in a small boat. We got for trifles near 1 1000 beaver skins, 100 martins and as many otters, and the most of them within the distance of 20 leagues. We ranged the coast both east and west much further," p. 175. He returned to Eng" land in September ; beside the furs, they carried home 47000 'dry and core fish,' made at Monheagan. A tradinghouse was afterwards established on this island, but was broken up 1626, when the goods being offered for sale, < lov Bradford and Mr. Winslow of the New Plymouth colony, and Mr. Thompson of Pascataqua, went thither and purchased them. The moiety of the Plymouth planters amounted to £400. Prince. 161. The island was sold that year by Mr. Jennings, of Plymouth, Kng. to the future Peniaquid patentees, and continued to be a favorite resort for fishermen. SuU. 392.

20 HISTORY OF 3ACO

Chapter II

The unfortunate termination of Sir Walter Raleigh's attempts to colonize Virginia during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, had effectually checked the spirit of enterprise in England in relation to the settlement of America. The discoveries of Gosnold and Pring, and the shortness of their voyages, now caused the subject to be re- t vived, and to excite more general interest than had before existed. On the petition of a number of gentlemen, a charter was granted by king James in the year 1606, dividing the country into two districts, called North and South Virginia, and authorizing the establishment of separate colonies in each district by two distinct companies. A right of property in the land fifty miles on each side of their first plantations, and extending one hunilred miles into the interior, was granted by this patent. The first or Southern colony were allowed to setde any part of the country within the degrees of 34 and 41 north latitude ; the second, consisting chiefly of persons resi^ dejit at Plymouth and other towns in the west of England, and thence denominated the Plymouth Company, were allowed to choose a place of settlement between 38 and 45 degrees north latitude. As a considerable portion of the territory thus allotted was common to the two districts, a provision was added, that the colony last planted should not approach within one hundred miles of that already established.*

The next year colonies were sent out by the two companies. One was fixed at Jamestown, of which Gosnold 'was the prime mover,' and Capt. Smith an active member ; the other was established at Sagadehock, or the mouth of the Kennebec, led by Captains George Popham, brother to the Chief Justice, and Raleigh Gilbert. This colony consisted of 108 menf ; whether accom-

*HaziJi-ds State Papers I. 50. ISmith's Virginia. II. 174. The southern colony consisted of about the same number. Gosnold died the first year. Aug. 22. The Pilgrim Colony of 1 620, comprised only 41 men ; the rest of their number (CO) being women and children. JV. £. Memorial 38.

AND BIDDEFOftD. 21

panied by their families, we are not informed. They arrived on the coast near the island of Monheagan, a few leagues east of the Kennebec, in the month of August, and soon after entered the mouth of that river, where on the eastern side, on an island now forming a part of Georgetown,* they commenced preparations for a permanent settlement without delay. Monheagan was agreed upon as a place of rendezvous for the ships before leaving England, f and although we are not directly told that the destination of the colony was determined before their arrival, there is no doubt of the fact. The great patron c^ the enterprise, "Chief Justice Popham, we have already seen, obtained an accurate survey of the coa&t the year before, and doubtless selected the mouth of that "fair and navigable river," as the Kennebec is styled by Smith, as a favorable location for the seat of the colony.

The lateness of the season scarcely allowed the colonists time to erect a fort' and the necessary places of shelter before the approach of winter, which proved excessively rigorous. More than half their number returned with the ships to England in December, in consequence of the severity of the cold and the scantiness of their supplies. Soon after those who remained had the misfortune to lose the greater part of their buildings and stores by fire. Capt. Popham died in the course of the winter, and an arrival in the spring brought news of the death of the Chief Justice. Raleigh Gilbert, who succeeded Popham as president of the Colony, was under the necessity of returning to England on account of the decease of his brother, of which intelligence was received by another arrival, and the colonists discouraged by so many adverse circumstances, resolved to abandon the country and return with him. Thus in less than one year from the time the settlement was commenced, the

^Called Parker's island, containing 28000 acres. Mass. Hist. Coll. i. 251. "Description of Georgetown." Prince supposes they landed on the peninsula of Cape Small Point, on the western side of the river. Belknap says a peninsula. Biog. i. 350. Sullivan, 15.53. supposed Stage island was the spot, which contains only six acres. We follow the intelligent local authority cited above.

i Gorges.

northern colony was broken up ; the country was denounced as uninhabitable, and no further attempts were made for many years to promote its setdement by the Company to whom it was assigned by the patent of King James.