Recollections of a naval life, including the cruises of the Confederate States steamers, "Sumter" and "Alabama".

Dedication

TO BLANCHE, MY WIFE

Now fe7v are the good things life can hold,- And the one I prize all others above

Is neither fame, nor a wealth of gold.

Preface

It would scarcely seem ait fait that a book should make its appearance (no matter how unpretentious it may be) before a criticising and oftentimes censorious pubHc without a preface. Yet I have usually found prefaces either explanatory, apologetic, or regretful. The book will be its own explanation, I have no apologies to make; but my regrets are many and great. Ten years ago I made up my mind and began to write this book for the pleasure of my family and friends. In my busy life weeks would often pass without my writing a word. Having a natural aversion to the pen was often an excuse for my neglect, and the fact was ever before me that a most delightful and perfect book in Admiral Semmes' "Service Afloat" had been given to the world, from which mine could not differ in facts, data, or detail, and could never approach in beauty of diction or language. My life has been one of deeds, not words, and what I have done in the strictest sense of duty and high integrity of purpose shall never be apologized for. To me there has never been a "New South." The blood of heroic sires and gentle mothers in the veins of the present generation have made her what she is — a remodeled country, built upon the grandeur of the past and the holiest memories a people ever inherited ! The Will of God could not be stayed or averted. Might prevailed; but behind the frowning Providence of disaster and defeat for His own wise plans and purposes, God has at last smiled upon the South, and she has many compensations from His hand. My regrets are that many who were with us when I began to write will never con these simple pages, for many, indeed most, of the friends of my youth have passed before me "on that road from which no traveler e'er returns."

6 PREFACE

To their children and my own posterity I leave in these pages the truth of history and hope they will not l)e without interest to the young. To my brothers, the "United Confederate Veterans," 1 give the narrative of our times, the "times that tried men's souls," that left us nought save honor, a love of country, the sacred memory of valiant lives and deeds, and a hope in God !

Jno. McIntosh Kell.

SuHiiyside, Georgia, May 3, i8g8.

PART I Chapter I

I BELIEVE it was Job who so pathetically exclaimed, "O, that mine adversary had written a book!" (which wish I could never explain satisfactorily to myself). Not beingsolicited by my enemies, but by my family and friends, for their pleasure, hoping it will give pleasure to others also, I venture to record some of the incidents of travel in my long and eventful life. If I may be forgiven the egotism (as I am an "author quite unknown to fame"), I will here introduce myself as an American of Southern birth, a Georgian, proud of my native State. I was named for my maternal great uncle. General John Mcintosh, famous for deeds of heroism in the war with the Spaniards in the early history of Georgia.

When I was four years old my father died, leaving to my mother's care live little children. My childhood was spent upon our plantation, "Laurel Grove," Mcintosh County, often varied by visits to Sapelo Island, the residence of my mother's first cousin, Hon. Thomas Spalding, whose son Randolph, a few months my senior, grew up with me in the intimacy of brothers. Our grandmothers were sisters, Marjory and Hester Mcintosh. Marjory married James Spalding and Hester (my grandmother) married Alexander Baillie, and died leaving an infant, my mother, who was reared by her aunt, Mrs. Marjory Spalding, for whom she was named.

My boyhood was passed as the Southern boy of that day, in the healthful, manly sports of hunting, riding, boating, and fishing, varied by school attendance in Darien, the county seat of Mcintosh County, which was settled by my ancestors, Clan Mcintosh, and first named "New Inverness," for their distant home in Scotland. My first teacher was Mr. Bradwell, who was famous in the seaboard counties as a teacher of great merit and ability. Shortly after, Dr. James Troup, the friend and physician of our family, was elected to the Legislature, and going up in his carriage to Milledgeville (for it was before the days of railroad travel), stopped at "Perry Mills" during the examination of a school kept by one Musgrove, a Scotchman. Being pleased with his mode of teaching, especially mathematics and English grammar, on his return to Darien Dr. Troup persuaded my mother to allow him to take me with his son and daughter and place us there at school. This school, however, was of short duration. The poor old Scotchman got on a big "spree," and remaining so for some time, we were sent home. My next teacher was Mr. Pincheon, who conducted a large and prosperous school in Darien till he was called to take charge of the Chatham Academy, in Savannah. To this school I was sent in company with my cousin, Henry K. Rees, now Episcopal Evangelist of the State of Georgia, an earnest worker in his Master's vineyard, honored and beloved in his profession. From this school I returned home and remained a year.

In my sixteenth year I was sent to Savannah into the counting house of Andrew Low & Co., with a view of entering mercantile life. I cannot say that it was to my taste, and after the winter's work I went home for a visit. I found the U. S. Brig Consort on a survey of our coast. This vessel was under the command of Captain Glynn, soon succeeded by Captain Ramsey; and here there came a change over the spirit of my boyish dreams at this impressionable age, and I resolved to serve my country as a naval officer. My frequent visits to the ship and the visits of the officers to my home (my sisters being young ladies in society at the time), and the notice the officers took of me as a lad, was no doubt very suggestive of the profession; but I think being born almost within sound of the billows and in sight of the "deep blue sea," I had an innate love for it which grew with my g-rowth and strengthened with my strength, and which will remain with me while life lasts.

At my earnest entreaty my mother (though it must have cost her widowed heart many a pang) applied through our imniediate Representative, Hon. Thos. Butler King, who obtained for me an appointment as midshipman in the United States Navy, dating from September 9, 1841.

His letter, which I found among her papers, reads : —

House of Representatives, Washington.

September 11, 1841.

My Dear Madam : After many and repeated efforts I have at length obtained a midshipman's warrant for your son. He now belongs to his country. That he will bear himself gallantly and honorably in the service to which he belongs I do not doubt. That he may attain its highest and brightest honors is the sincere wish of your faithful friend And.obt. servant,

Tho. Butler King.

To Mrs. Kell, Darien, Ga.

My first orders were to join the Sloop of War Falmouth, then fitting out at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, and under the command of my relative, Captain James McKay Mcintosh. In obedience to orders I took passage on a sailing vessel for New York from Savannah. Upon the voyage we experienced some rough weather; but having once taken a trip in a brig from Darien to Georgetown, South Carolina, with the family of Mr. John Green, a rice planter of our county (which gave me my first experience of sea life), I felt quite at home on the voyage to New York and did not suffer from seasickness.

Upon my arrival in New York I found a letter from Captain Mcintosh, telling me to take passage in a baysteamer for Bridgeport, Conn., where he was residing with his family. I did as he directed, and arriving at Bridgeport about the hour of noon, proceeded to the hotel. My first introduction to Northern manners and customs took place here. I noticed very closely everything that took place, and was much surprised to find young white servant girls attending at the table. The dinner was a revelation to me. Down the center of the table was a row of pumpkin pies. After getting fairly under way with the meats and vegetables, I noticed the girls handing around in pitchers a foaming beverage, which I innocently mistook for champagne, and prepared my palate for a luscious quaff. Holding my tumbler on high to be filled, I soon took a full mouthful, but quietly set it down again, and gazed around me to see the effect on other people. They seemed to enjoy it, but it was my first taste of hard cider, and I was thoroughly disgusted and disappointed. Not so with the pumpkin pie, however; I enjoyed that with the zest of a hungry boy of sixteen. After dinner I sought the residence of my cousin. Captain Mcintosh, and made the acquaintance of his beautiful young wife and two pretty little children. Among the features of the little town was pointed out to me the home of P. T. Barnum, one of its residents. One evening while there we were invited to tea. I noticed the absence of all Southern breads, such as waffles, muffins, wafers, etc., and that all the breads were sweet, commencing with doughnuts, which I liked on first acquaintance. In two or three days the captain and I went to New York, and then began my life on board a ''man of war."

The Falmouth was a first-class sloop of war of that date. I at once fitted myself out in the jaunty midshipman uniform, further providing myself with bedding and all the necessary articles, and took up my quarters with my messmates, to "be rocked in the cradle of the deep." Everything was pressed forward getting ready, as we were shortly to set sail for what was then known as the "Gulf Squadron," and to take with us as passenger the newlyappointed minister to Quito, Mr. Black. My letters, at this time full of boyish enthusiasm, were preserved among my mother's treasures, and are a great source of amusement to my children now. After landing our minister we had a pleasant and interesting cruise through the Windward Islands, touching at Santa Cruz, St. Thomas, Martinique, and finally shaping our course for Pensacola, the rendezvous of the Gulf Squadron.

On arriving at Pensacola we entered upon a round of gaiety. I saw for the first time here the celebrated Madame Le Vert, who was in the zenith of her fame and popularity. I have seen many more beautiful women, but never saw one more full of grace and vivacity or more charming as a conversationalist. After remaining in port a month or more we sailed for Vera Cruz, coming to anchor under the island of Sacrificios, this being the only safe anchorage from the violent northers that blow across the Gulf of Mexico, and distant some miles from the city. The city of Vera Cruz presented a true picture of Spanish architecture, the houses being built of adobe or unburnt brick, plastered and whitewashed, with tile roofing.

The city was not attractive, and the fort opposite presented a very formidable appearance — built of coral from the reef upon which it stood. Old Vera Cruz, fifteen miles northwest of the present city, is said to be the spot where Cortez disembarked in 1518. Our first precaution after anchoring was to moor ship securely, with our two bowers and sheet anchors so planted as to resist these violent northers, also sending down our lower yards and housing topmasts. In a few days we had reason to congratulate ourselves upon being so well prepared, for we experienced one of those storms in all its fury, making it dangerous for a man to hold his head even above the rail of the ship. We were quite ready and relieved after this severe experience to receive the order to "get ready for sea." In those days (it being before the day of steamers) men-of-war were allowed to carry silver from one country to another as an accommodation to merchants, at the same time allowing a percentage for this service to the captain doing such favor. Our captain had taken on board a quantity of silver bars to be carried to parties in the city of New Orleans. After a pleasant passage we arrived and anchored ofif the mouth of the Belize, our ship drawing too much water to cross the bar, A little steam tug came alongside, to which the silver was transferred, and I, with other officers, was detailed to take charge of the silver and deliver it to the houses to which it was consigned. My first impression of New Orleans was remarkable in this particular. We landed in the French part of the city, where French was the prevailing tongue, while across the street dividing the American and Creole or French population English was used entirely. After attending to our mission and enjoying a day in the city we returned on board ship and shortly after set sail for Pensacola.

Chapter II

Pensacola in those days was the paradise of midshipmen. They, with their seniors, the lieutenants, gave themselves up to the gaieties of this seaport town. It was always noted for the pretty girls that had their homes there, and of course they were always "belles" when the Gulf Squadron was at its rendezvous. Like the Norfolk girls, they were very full of "sea knowledge." My friend, John N. Mafifitt, in a charming little story of his, makes an old veteran ofificer say to a middy : "Mr. Forbes, a leopard cannot change its spots, neither can a Norfolk girl be otherwise than beautiful and d — d dangerous. At school their first class reader is 'Dorsey Lever.' Every Sunday they study the 'Navy Register,' and when standing on the 'Bridge of Sighs' with 'spooney' midshipmen by their sides they become instructors of astronomy, nautical romance and the abstruse science of knotting and splicing." Well, her Pensacola sisters can equal the Norfolk girl, and "sighing sailors, beautiful senoritas, scowling rivals and love-sick middies" filled the tropical air of that old town in my young days, and "music, moonlight, love, and flowers" were the living inspiration !

After refitting we proceeded on our way northward, stopping at Savannah, Georgia, the seaport town of the captain's native State, where he was received with great cordiality, and our ship visited by many of its inhabitants. The captain took advantage of the occasion to visit his old home near Darien, Georgia, and to my great delight I accompanied him, and visited my home and family after many months of absence. We were quite the observed of all in our bright uniforms, and I felt the great importance of my position as an officer of the Government, though only a miclshipman ! We enjoyed our week's visit to the fullest extent, and took stage coach for the city of Savannah, passing through the Counties of Mcintosh, Liberty, etc. Experiencing some runaway tilts in the coach and four, we capped the climax late in the evening by the driver going to sleep and upsetting the stage in a marsh while driving over a causeway. Fortunately for me, I had the seat with the driver, and soon extricated myself by jumping clear of the wreck. Not so, however, with the inside passengers; they had to climb through the upper windows of the coach. The rotundity of the captain made this rather a hard job for him and he lost no time in addressing the driver in sailor parlance, not very complimentary. After all were rescued alive and unhurt and the driver had meekly borne his share of abuse for his carelessness, we prepared to start again.

Righting up the coach, and being re-seated, we passed the remainder of the journey in laughing and joking over the ridiculous plight to which we had been reduced, the captain declaring he "ran no such risks at sea, where he was much more safe than on terra firma." Upon arriving in Savannah we joined our ship and set sail for New York. At the Brooklyn Navy Yard we found the Frigate Savannah fitting out for her first cruise, and bearing the broad pennant of the commodore of the Pacific Squadron, I applied for orders to this vessel, which I received, and reported for duty on board — Captain Andrew Fitzhugh, commanding — October 20, 1843.

As soon as the Frigate Savannah was ready for sea we set sail for Rio Janeiro on our way to the Pacific. After a remarkably pleasant voyage we anchored ofT Rio on the 1 8th of December. The geographies truly say that the peerless bay of Rio, upon which the city is situated, is scarcely rivaled in beauty by the far-famed Bay of Naples. On nearing the coast the first object that presents itself to the mariner is "Sugar Loaf Mountain." This mountain is about nine hundred feet above the sea. There are many

Other mountains, among them the "Organ," so called from the resemblance it bears to the pipes of a huge organ; also "Table Mountain," whose summit is flat. I believe it is this mountain that is called by the Portuguese "Square Topsail," as it quite resembles that article of rigging to a practiced eye. Of course the climate of Brazil is warm, and subject to the dread usurper of such climates, yellow fever; but it is very much tempered by the breezes that come from the sea. The city of Rio has a great deal in it to enjoy. We midshipmen went on shore at the first opportunity, and being somewhat tired of ship fare found our way to a restaurant and ordered a supper. When the bill was presented it was up in the millions in their currency (with which we were not then familiar) and was truly startling. We became very much alarmed and thought we were a lot of "busted individuals," but managed upon a financial explanation to settle the bill. Previous to this supper we had "taken in" the town, visiting, among other places, the beautiful Cathedral. Upon entering this building we handed a very officious and self-important guide some small change to show us around. After showing us through the Cathedral proper he invited us into a feastroom, where he told us the priests the night before had held a banquet. Judging from the empty ale bottles it must have been quite a banquet! He kindly offered us some of the ale (of which we partook), this being my first and last experience of ale drinking in a church.

After taking in water and provisioning ship, we continued our voyage around the Horn, encountering rough weather, heavy gales, boisterous seas, and a very low degree of temperature, being nearly frozen for three weeks off the pitch of the Cape. The violence of the gales forced us down to latitude 62 degrees south. After rounding the Cape we shaped our course northward in the broad Pacific, and welcomed the more temperate clime of the lower latitudes.

On the 17th of February, 1844, we came to anchor in the Bay of Callao, the seaport of Lima, the ancient Capital of Peru. The Bay of Callao is formed from a peninsula on which formerly stood the old city of Callao, submerged more than a hundred years ago by a terrible earthquake, the chimneys still showing above ground. An English company were proposing at that time to excavate for the buried treasure of that once wealthy city. It is related that during this terrific earthquake a Spanish frigate was carried by the incoming sea several miles in the interior and left there by the receding waters.

The island of San Lorenzo forms the western barrier or sea front to the bay, thus forming a very snug anchorage. Callao was built after the style of old Spanish towns — subject to earthquakes — of adobe, with one story only, and tile roofing. Lima, about six miles from Callao, is famous for its old cathedrals of great wealth and magnificence, dating back to the days of Pizarro. In one of these we were shown by the priest a body embalmed and claimed to be that of Pizarro himself. A beautiful stream passes through the city, and along its banks are shaded walks, where the Spanish maidens and duennas are seen in their peculiar dress, with a mantilla over the head having an opening for but one eye. This eye, often of brilliant appearance, united to a graceful, queenly carriage and walk, leaves great scope for imagined beauty. Across the stream is a famous amphitheatre, where the renowned bullfights took place at that time, a great attraction for the city and country around — doubloons and bouquets being eagerly thrown to the successful matadors. It was of course our privilege to witness one of these scenes of wild excitement and great brutality. Often fine steeds were gored and the matador himself fatally injured, and finally the poor bull would succumb to the torture no longer endurable. Then would be brought in a truck pulled by four magnificent horses richly caparisoned, the carcass thrown upon it, and amidst the shouts of the multitude carried out, when another animal would be brought in to go through the same ordeal. Lima was famous for her bullfights, the cruel sport of a semi-barbarous age and time.

At Callao I was transferred to the Schooner Shark, under the command of Lieutenant Neil M. Howison. Mr. Howison came out as flag lieutenant with Commodore Dallas, ordered to command the Pacific Squadron. The commodore's flag was hoisted on the Frigate Savannah, but he did not live to take a cruise. He was taken sick and died on shore at Callao. The Schooner Shark was given to his flag lieutenant as a select command, and it was a privilege to serve on board. I, being only a midshipman, was placed in charge of a watch. My first experience was an amusing one. The Shark was ordered to take some of our ofificers leaving the squadron to Panama on their way home. While on this voyage we passed quite near the Lobas group of islands, or really a group of rocks, where seals and sea lions reared their young in great numbers. We were running with a free wind with our square sails set, and the course given me took us quite near the rocks. Upon the near approach of the schooner the seals set up a great roaring as they rolled into the water from their rocky beds and frolicked around in the water in our wake. It happened to be just at dinner time, and the officers taking passage were at table with the captain. I put my head down the hatchway and called to the captain to "come and see the seals playing around the vessel." He replied : "Will be up as soon as I finish dinner," but one of the officers came up at once. Calling out, he said : "Howison, come on deck !" As the captain came up he was surprised to see our nearness to the rocks; still I was keeping the course given me, but there was evidently a current setting us on toward them. The captain at a glance took in the situation. He directed me to "put the helm down and haul on the wind and give good distance in passing the rocks, remarking, by way of pleasantry, "Mr. Kell, you must think you are in a coach and four, driving round a

Street corner." 1 was strictly carrying out my orders, but was wanting in experience as a watch officer. For a long time after that I heard a great deal of "those seals and my coach and four."

We reached Panama after a pleasant voyage, and took leave of our officers, who crossed the Isthmus on their way home. We anchored off the island of Toboga, which was then in its primitive state, and occupied by the native Indians, with the exception of an old Irish woman, who had married one of the head men of their tribe. She did the washing for the officers, using as a smoothing iron the conchs picked up on the seashore. This was truly a lovely spot in its primeval growth and beauty. Its limpid streams ran down from the hills above into grottoes, making beautiful natural bathing houses, which we enjoyed to the fullest extent. From our refreshing baths we would stroll up into the pineapple fields and gather the fruit ripe from the plant, and only those who have eaten it in this way know its exquisite perfection. After getting on board sufficient water for our voyage, with what fruit, vegetables, and poultry we could gather from the natives, and our supply of clean linen from our Irish washerwoman, beautifully clean, but conch ironed and minus buttons, we took our departure from lovely Toboga, one of the natural garden spots of God's great universe.

Returning along the coast of South America, with pleasant breezes and smooth seas, we stopped in the port of Payta, where a limited trade is carried on with coasting vessels and whalers. We also ran into the small port of Huanchaco. There, in company with the captain and one or two other officers, I left the schooner for a day's ride in the country to visit the ruins of one of the cities of the Incas, who occupied that country when Pizarro passed along on his conquering march to the city of Lima. We could distinctly trace out the streets and the foundations of some of the buildings. In our ride through these ruins we frightened up a fox from his lair, and had a wild chase over the old town, which was royal fun for a lot of sailors. On our return to the village of Huanchaco we were entertained at the house of one of the priests of the village, where v/e enjoyed a most delightful drink made from a species of the passion flower, or May-pop, called there the "granadelia." It is quite as acid and has a more pleasant taste than the common lime. We returned at sunset on board ship and next morning early got under way and stood down the coast for Callao, stopping at convenient points for hunting and fishing, for little health runs on shore, and other amusements of various kinds.

Chapter III

In the very early part of this cruise I find from old letters (one of which I will insert) that I was very much impressed with San Domingo and the surroundings, and must have picked up some traditions from the islanders.

Latitude i8° 43' N., Long. 75° 23' W.

May 6.

My Dear Mother: We have in sight St. Domingo and the small island of Navaza, the latter noted for being the place where some of Columbus' men landed in crossing from Jamaica to St. Domingo in canoes, having lost their vessel on the former island. There were but two among his crew that would volunteer to cross, so after working on and improving the canoe to enable it better to stand the sea they started, taking Indians to paddle them. Before arriving at this island one of them died famishing for water, and after landing on the barren rock they found pools of water. The poor natives insisted upon drinking their fill, and would not listen to the precautions of the Spaniards, and several others, died. Had these daring adventurers missed this island they would certainly have perished before reaching St. Domingo, and Columbus no doubt would never have been heard from, but left to die by the hand of the savages. Soon after this adventure the natives stopped bringing him provisions, and it was with the greatest difficulty he could procure subsistence for his men. I was struck with the stratagem he used for inducing the natives to furnish him with provisions. He ascertained that within three days there would be a total eclipse of the moon in the early part of the night. He therefore sent to the principal caciques, or head men, of each tribe, and summoned them to a conference, appointing for it the day of the eclipse. When they arrived he spoke to them sharply for having prevented their people from furnishing him with food. After haranguing them for some time he told them he and his followers worshiped a God who lived in the skies, who favored all that were good, but punished transgressors; that this great God was angry with the Indians who had refused to furnish his faithful followers with food, and intended to chasten them with famine and pestilence. Should they disbelieve his warning, a signal would be given that night that the moon would change its color as a token of the punishment that awaited them. Many scoffed at him, but waited most anxiously the coming of the night. The moon rose majestically and all eyes were fixed upon her. At the time Columbus told them, the moon grew darker and darker, and abject terror seized upon them. Hurrying to Columbus they implored him to intercede with his Deity, and they would hereafter bring him everything he required. Columbus left them, promising to intercede. When the eclipse was nearly over he returned, saying his God had deigned to listen, and would pardon them on condition that they kept their promise, and that the darkness would now be withdrawn. When the moon emerged in her brightness they were overwhelmed with joy, and furnished Columbus ever afterwards abundantly.