Harriet Hubbard Ayer's book; a complete and authentic treatise on the laws of health and beauty ...

Front matter

CoipglitlJ?

CQB3UGHT DEPOSm

Harriet

Chapter I Tjijej Will 0' The Wisp, Beauty

The desire of every woman to be beautiful — Her constant pursuit through life — How a woman is robbed of good looks — Her valiant fight against time — Desire to be beautiful inspired by man^ — Plain women not preferred by the opposite sex — An actual case in point — Beauty the supreme power of woman ^ — Maintenance of beauty after maturity means purity and temperance — Women should not always be satisfied with Nature. .......

PAGE

Chapter II The Art Of Remaining Young

Age a matter of feeling, not of years — Some famous women who have kept their beauty long past middle life — Two modern instances — Women under thirty need not grow old — Those fifty and over may recover their beauty — No virtue in plainness — The world's most beautiful women have been also the most powerful — Beauty and goodness should walk hand in hand — No royal road to beauty — Care and common sense alone required — Good housekeepers often neglect themselves — Women under thirty need no cosmetics — Those older fully justified in their use .

Chapter III The 8in Of Bowdiness Page

Danger of drifting into dowdiness — Some women never look well dressed — The dowd not confined to any station in life — After marriage many women neglect their personal appearance — Dowdy wives in danger of losing their husbands — A grave mistake for a woman to neglect her looks — Almost criminal in a married woman — Peace and happiness of the whole family may be involved — Lack of time not a valid excuse — Less important things may well be neglected, if necessary — Few women need be plain looking — Virtue and loveliness — Depraved women never truly lovely. . . 50

Chapter IV The Well-groomed Woman

What the expression means — Cosmetics not a factor — The bath a prime requisite — The hair, face, hands and apparel — Middle-aged women, especially, should be well groomed — An example in support of this statement — A woman of fifty who made herself look young — A husband's susceptibility at forty-five — Effect of tailor-made gowns and pretty apparel — A fresh and wholesome appearance quite as attractive — Dress alone not the touchstone — The author's own experience — Satisfaction derived from an observance of hygienic rules. ........ 57

Chapter V Cleanllness The Hand 31 Aid Of Health

4.ND BEAUTY

Any woman may retain her good looks — How she may defy the years to come and collect interest on her past — ''Cleanliness next to Godliness" — What it means to be clean — The bondage of soap and water a blessing — The transfer-

Contents

PAGE mation of plain, sallow, bad-complexioned women — Meaning of a real hygienic bath — Value of the fleshbrush and face scrubbing brush — About pure soap — Expense not worth considering — Tepid and hot baths — Friction after the bath — Benefits from sea bathing. . . . . •. .64

CHAPTER VI CLEANLINESS THE HANDMAID OF HEALTH AND BEAUTY— Concluded

More about the bath — Bran and almond-meal bags — Recipe for home manufacture — A fragrant bath liquid — Best time to take a bath — Temperature of the bath — Special efficacy of hot baths — Sara Bernhardt on the value of hot water — More about pure soap — A delicious bath perfume — Hungary water and aromatic vinegar — How to make the flesh firm and smooth — The Turkish bath — Value of the sweating and scrubbing process — Sulphur baths ^ — How to take a sulphur bath at home — The electric bath — Aromatic baths for nervous women — The beauty bath — The gelatine bath — Bath of the aristocracy — Even age is charming when clean and wholesome ........ 71

Chapter VII The Haib

Its structure and growth — When it will reproduce itself — The sure proof of baldness — How the quantity, quality and texture of the hair are governed — Vigorous circulation necessary to luxuriant hair — Lack of care the chief reason for falling hair — Necessity for cleanliness, ventilation and friction — About washing the hair — Causes of unhealthy hair — Harmful hair restorers and tonics — Gray hair in men and women — Beneficial results from scalp massage — The electric brush for scalp circulation — The coloring matter of the hair — Why the hair changes color. .... 86

CHAPTER VIII THE HAIR — Continued PAGE

The use of peroxide of hydrogen — The bondage of golden hair

Bleached hair never permanent — Why the roots will not bleach — Method of applying peroxide — Danger of using ammonia — Skill necessary in properly applying peroxide — How to get back the original color — How to make lifeless hair bright — Treatment not adapted to the eyebrows — How to produce Titian red with peroxide — Homemade hair dyes not advised — A once famous dye. ..... 92

Chapter IX

Affections of the hair — Dandruff the result of uncleanliness — Lotion for excessive scurf — To keep the hair and scalp healthy — Scrupulous cleanliness necessary — A shampoo for dandruff — How to cleanse the scalp — Eczema of the scalp — Remedies for falling hair — The Jabarondi tonic — Treatment for falling hair after fever — Castor-oil hair tonic — On loosening the hair at night — Care of children's hair — Foreign remedies for falling hair. ..... 101

CHAPTER X THE HAIR— Continued

Superfluous hair — The mortification of women with beards and moustaches — Electrolysis the only certain cure — Depilatories only a temporary remedy — How disfiguring facial defects were once considered — The case of Charity Ross — An effective and harmless depilatory — How to remove superfluous hair from the arms — Hair on the arms may be bleached with peroxide of hydrogen . . . . .107

CHAPTER XI THE HAIR— Concluded PAGE

Lovelocks of the summer maid — Desirability of curling hair — Artificial methods for making the hair wavy — Curling fluids rarely satisfactory — Rubber curlers or curling iron preferable — Recipe for curline — Hair curled to last three weeks — Description of the process — Secretage or permanent curling fluid — Process highly objectionable . . . .113

Chapter XII Scalp Massage

Troubles with the hair which are incident to defective scalp circulation — Scalp massage an excellent means to restore circulation — Instructions regarding the treatment — How to relieve a nervous headache — Scalp massage for congestive headaches — Why men and women lose their hair — How to brush the hair — Scalp massage for baldness and falling hair — Danger of choosing an unskilled operator. . . 121

Chapter XIII

Most American women have poor skins — Few complexions are free from blemishes — Amount annually spent for cosmetics in the United States — The pastry habit — Evil effect of too much saleratus — -Value of bread-and-milk luncheons — Prevalence of pimples — Fossati Cream for pimples — How to treaty muddy and pimply skins — Sulphur soap for pimples. . . 125

Chapter XIV

Freckles — General comment on these disfiguring blemishes — All skin troubles curable in the absence of hereditary ail-

PAGE ment — Freckles not unclean like blackheads or pimples — The two classes of freckles — Summer freckles — Cold or winter freckles — Frequent bathing, scrubbing and rough friction for summer freckles — A simple additional remedy

— An accompanying lotion — The Medical Record's remedy for obstinate freckles — Special ointment to be used in conjunction with the latter — The hydrozone and glycozone treatment — Softening unguent for chapped face — Lotion for dry and scaly skin — Tan and sunburn — Moth patches

— Formula for face bleach ....... 129

CHAPTER XV THE COMPLEXION— Continued

About blackheads — A form of acne — Each speck marks an obstructed gland outlet — The black speck simply dirt — Parasitic character of blackheads — Danger in forcibly removing blackheads — Can be easily cured with proper treatment — How to proceed — Treatment for obstinate blackheads — A new remedy for blackheads — Various forms of acne — Confluent acne — Acne indurata — Value of face scrubbing in acne — Treatment applies to men also — Acne molluscum — Treatment for acne molluscum. ..... 137

Chapter XVI

Eczema and skin eruptions — Any eruption fatal to beauty — Cleanliness the most important requisite — The process of skin decay and reproduction — The consequence of congested pores — The most stubborn cases of skin diseases yield to cleansing and friction — Case of a young Swedish girl — Remarks on eczema — Even inherited skin disease may be palliated — General treatment in eczema — Dr. Cazenave's remedy — Dr. Monin's lotion — Dr. Cooley's treatment — Eczema ointment ......... 142

CHAPTER XVII THE COMPLEXION— Continued PAGE

The flirtatious washrag — Few women know how to properly wash their faces — A face-washing class — The old and the new way — Scientific natural method for keeping the pores free — How the average gentlewoman washes her face — How to really free the skin from impurities — The thorough scrub with hot water, soap and a brush — The soap itself to be carefully rinsed off — Face steaming — Danger in the process — Hot cloths considered more efficacious — Lotion to be used after face steaming. ...... 151

Chapter XVIII

Technical description of a wrinkle — All wrinkles do not indicate age — An unerring record of the past — They tell of good and bad attributes — The countenance reflects the character

— Lines which reveal the gossip, the talker, the malicious, cynical and fretful woman — Wrinkles reflecting temperament hard to remove — General treatment for wrinkles — Attention to diet of great importance — Effectiveness of properly administered massage — Electricity an excellent adjunct — Tissue building often required — Formula for skin food 157

Chapter XIX

Swedish system the only reliable and lasting method — Relaxed facial muscles must be built up — Services of a skillful masseur necessary — Knowledge of anatomy indispensable

— General observations on massage — Explanation of the various motions — How to remove a droop in the eyelid — To correct laughing wrinkles — The several facial muscles

— What causes sunken cheeks — To obliterate lines of care

— How to treat the neck and throat — Treatment not unpleasant. .......... 170

CHAPTER XX THE COMPLEXION— Continued PAGE

The gentle art of face skinning ^ — ^Description of the process — Probably originated with the Greeks — An extremely painful operation — Attended with some danger — The treatment very expensive — Improvement in appearance unquestionable — All lines of character obliterated — About birthmarks — Their removal possible in many cases — Disfiguring scars may also be wholly or partially r'emoved. . 182

CHAPTER XXI THE COMPLEXION— Concluded

The summer girl — The hot season need not be especially trying to the complexion — A few simple precautions necessary — The daily bath an essential — A lotion for tan — Cucumber cream — Effect of too much meat and starchy food — Formula for soap paste for the skin — Beauty cream — Milk vinegar — A simple summer lotion — Strawberries and spinach for the complexion. ........ 190

Chapter XXII The Eyes And Eyebbows

The eye a telltale of the soul — Protuberant and sunken eyes may be corrected — Dull eyes may be made lustrous without drugs or cosmetics — The use of "eye beautifiers " condemned — Lotion for granulated lids — Wash for inflamed eyes — An eye brightener — About clipping the eyebrows — Crossed and squinting eyes easily curable — Formulas for eye wash — Beauty's eyebrows — Heavy eyebrows an index of vitality — To remove superfluous hairs — Toilet of the eyebrows — To correct broad and bushy eyebrows — To arrest falling eyebrows — Cosmetic for darkening the eyebrows — Electrical treatment. ...... 197

CHAPTER XXIII THE JSfOSE

PAGE

Red noses generally the result of excess or carelessness — Relation between the stomach and nose — Hot water a valuable remedy — Influenza, Rose Fever and Hay Fever — The hydrozone and glycozone treatment — Syrup for an itching nose

— Aromatic bath with massage — Treatment for shiny and oily noses — Straightening deformed and ill-shaped noses

— Red veins on the nose — Bleeding at the nose — Treatment for a swollen nose. ....... 206

Chapter XXIV

Dimensions of the perfect ear — Mothers and nurses often to blame for deformed ears — Treatment for outstanding ears — Piercing the ears reprehensible — Danger attending the operation - — Eczema of the ear — Ointment for eczema of the ear — Formula for Duval's earache cure — To remove hardened cerumen — How to cleanse the ear — Treatment for blackheads in the outer ear — To remove insects from the ear. 216

Chapter XXV

The perfect mouth — Influence of the mouth and teeth on personal beauty — The age of wonderful dentistry — Antiseptic wash for offensive breath — Hydrozone and glycozone for catarrhal breath — Pocket pastilles — Treatment of the teeth — Care of the baby teeth — How to brush the teeth — Tooth powders — Formula for too abundant salivation — The habit of grimacing in children — Massage for drooping corners of the mouth — Crown fillings — Wash for receding gums — Formula for the famous Eau Botot ointment for cold sores and fever blisters — Myrrh and borax mouth w^ash . . . 221

CHAPTER XXVI THE MOUTH AND TEETH —Continued PAGE

Absolutely clean teeth never decay — Value of smooth tooth surfaces — Tooth polishing — Hardening the tooth structure — The use of formalin — Preventative measures and destruction of germs — How stained and discolored teeth maybe whitened — How crowded teeth may be remedied — How crooked and misshapen teeth may be straightened — Display of gold to be avoided — Porcelain inlays — Artificial teeth — Value of skillful dentistry 231

CHAPTER XXVII THE MOUTH AND TEETH— Concluded

The wonders of modern dentistry — Fine teeth a prime requisite to beauty — How a tooth once extracted can be made to grow again — Tooth implantation — Details of the operation — A recent successful case — Replantation and transplantation of the teeth — The most remarkable achievement of dental surgery — Operation not long nor painful. .... 237

Chapter XXVIII The Arms, Shoulders, Neck And Bust

Physical culture for skinny and bony arms — Lumpy arm of the athletic girl — The beautiful arm — Calisthenics — Treatment for those who are too thin — To improve rough skin — Lotion Giannini — Massage for thin arms — Lotion for whitening the arms — To remove superfluous hair on the arms — Delcroix's poudre subtile — Massage for relaxed muscles — Treatment for a flabby throat — Voice culture for scrawny throats. . 243

CHAPTER XXIX THE ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND BUST —Concluded PAGE

Average measurements of a finely-formed woman — Development of the bust — Danger of using the glass cup — ^The Kisch treatment to reduce the breasts — Treatment for bust development — Compressed oxygen gas — To make the busts firm - — Linen collars and pretty necks — Massage to counteract the effect of wearing stiff collars — Formula for removing yellow stains under the collar ...... 252

Chapter XXX The Perfect Woman

Height should be eight times the length of the head — How the height should be divided proportionately — Proper proportions in width — List of requirements for the perfect woman — A woman may be remarkably attractive without exactly conforming to a fixed standard — Importance of cleanliness, neatness and fastidious care in the matters of the toilet . 258

Chapter XXXI

The cultivated waist — The artistic standard for the waist — The wasp waist and the ailments of women — The evils of tight lacing — A squeezed waist not pretty — Healthful way to attain a slender waist — Effect of tight lacing on the nervous system — The average woman requires a corset — It should be well fitting and properly constructed — What a proper corset will do for the figure — Harm done by tight lacing often entailed on a future generation ..... 269

PAGE

Chapter XXXII

No woman's hand barred from some degree of beauty — Importance of early care of children's hands — Rough hands often the result of carelessness — Pure soap only should be used^ — Amadine for the hands — Honey paste for softening the hands — Lotion for chapped hands - — Wash for itching of the hands — The Sitts method of manicure — The proper manicure set — Remedy for profuse perspiration of the hands — Treatment for chilblains — Indigestion and red hands. 278

CHAPTER XXXIII THE HAND— Concluded How to have soft, pretty hands — Scrupulous cleanliness necessary

— Skin food for the hands — Almond paste — How to whiten the hands — Cocoa cream cerate — How to be your own manicure — Simple implements and little time necessary — Sharp instruments should not be used — How to care for the skin around the nails — Details of the process of manicuring

— Formula for nail powder and rose paste — To remove warts — Miscellaneous hints on the hands .... 289

Chapter XXXIV The Eoot And Foot Gear

The "Cinderella foot" not the fashion — The foot should be in proportion to the frame it supports — The former test of foot perfection — Few women over thirty have perfect feet — Hope for the rising generation — The "Trilby foot" — Harmony makes beauty — When the female foot attains its normal size — The average size of the female foot — Requisites of the truly beautiful foot - — The foot according to Flaxraan and the Greek models ...... 298

CHAPTER XXXV THE FOOT AND FOOT GEAR— Concluded PAGE

The common -sense shoe — Evils of wearing the high French heels — Du Manner's missionary work — Toilet of the feet

— Thorough cleanliness requisite — How to cut the nails — How to correct crooked nails — Advice regarding ingrowing nails — About narrow shoes — Result of tight shoes not always immediate — Cures for corns — Tender feet — Patent leather condemned — Cold feet — Profuse perspiration and its remedy — Bunions — Services of pedicure advised — Recent wholesome improvement in foot gear — Broad foot-form shoes the fashion. ....... 302

Chapter XXXVI

A wonderful relief for tired feet — Beneficial for feet that have been improperly shod — An expert masseuse not required — Lotion to be used before massage — Detailed explanation of the process — Proper treatment of a corn after cutting

— Points to be heeded in fitting a shoe — Enlarged joints

— So called "magic cures" should be avoided — Hints regarding care of the feet ....... 312

Chapter XXXVII

"Paying the price" — Abstinence of our grandmothers — Influence of Europeans on American sobriety — The drinking woman

— Geography of a dissipated woman's face — The demands of society — Why the personal charms of society women so quickly fade — A typical example from the author's personal experience — A still sadder case — Excess fatal to beauty, happiness and morality — A cheerful sign of the times — Excess in tea and coffee drinking. ..... 320

Chapter Xxxviii Physical Culture Page

Importance of daily exercise — Value of gymnastics — About deep breathing — Few people breathe properly — Deep breathing should be developed into a habit — The author's system — Gymnastics remedy many physical defects — Value of calisthenics for growing girls — Boudoir gymnastics recommended

— No apparatus necessary — A schedule of exercises . . 327

CHAPTER XXXIX PHYSICAL CULTUBE — Continued

The Swedish or Ling system of calisthenics — Details of the different movements — Vigorous work necessary — Exhaustion should be avoided — Good ventilation an essential — Dress should be loose and light — Special value of apparatus — Dumb-bell exercises to build up the chest — The movements in detail — Flat-chested girls — Round-shouldered women . 339

CHAPTER XL PHYSICAL CULT URE — Continued

Where women need strength — Abdominal exercise and hip-reduction — The rigid waist — How to attain an elegant walk and carriage — Special exercises in detail — ^^Movement for straightening the shoulders and developing the bust — An exercise for general suppleness — How to fill out thin and scrawny throats — The movements in detail — Grace and health gained by running. . . . . . . . .350

CHAPTER XLI PHYSICAL C ULTURE — Concluded Swimming for girls and women — How to learn without a master

— A healthful and desirable accomplishment — Artificial aids should be avoided — Only a few simple rules to be observed

PAGE

— First attempt at a stroke — How to tread water — How to learn to float — Bathing costumes — What to do in case of cramps and vertigo — How to rescue the drowning and restore consciousness. ........ 360

Chapter XLII Sow To Sleep

Tlie right way and the wrong — Sleep one of the most important functions of life — Too little time given to rest — Lack of sleep quickly destroys health and vigor — Ample repose necessary to the preservation of female beauty — Hints about sleeping room and beds — The right way to lie — The best position for promoting health and a fine figure . . . 373

Chapter XLIII Beauty And Health For The Jbuslres8

WOMAJSr

Importance of good looks in business — Best-looking applicants generally get the positions — Elaborate dressing out of place

— The proper make-up — A contented spirit should be cultivated — Regular exercise not to be neglected — Hints for the toilet — Importance of the toilet on retiring — A separate sleeping room highly desirable — Should have ten hours sleep, if possible ......... 374

Chapter XLIV Mother And Chlld

Maternity the holiest mission of woman — Importance to the offspring of moral and physical health in the mother — Hints about the newborn child — The first bath — Dressing the navel — Use of the flannel bellybancl — Simple clothing for the little one — Newborn babies need no artificial food — Care in the choice of a wet nurse — The best artificial milk — General rules for feeding — Schedule of diet for babies brought up by hand ........ 379

CHAPTER XLV MOTHER AND CHILD— ConcUded PAGE

Weaning the baby — Sterilization of milk — Bathing and dressing — How to carry a baby — Powder no longer used in the baby's toilet — The sometimes capricious stomach — Baby's accomplishments — Weights and measurements — Baby's good looks — The ears — The nose — The head — The mouth and teeth — General hints . . . . . ... 389

Chapter XLVI How To Read Character From The Features

The face as a whole must be considered — The rosebud mouth — The conceited mouth — The gossip's mouth — The mouth of truthfulness and loyalty — The teeth — The chin — The nose — The eye — The eye of long memory — The jealous eye

— The narrow eye — The eyebrows — The ear . . . 405

CHAPTER XLVn

How thin women may become plump and stay so — Leanness can be easily avoided — Harmless measures alone necessary

— Treatment not wholly availing in cases of chronic organic diseases — Helpful suggestions — Irritable nerves — Treatment in detail — Exercise, diet and rest — Value of skin food — A tonic sometimes necessary — Value of voice culture

— Cultivation of calmness and placidity — The treatment not

an experiment ......... 417

Chapter XLVIII

How to safely deal with an excess of flesh — Any woman can treat herself without injury to health — No drugs necessary —

PAGE

Treating fat scientifically — Some flesh-reducing methods — The proper weight for various heights — When many women beo-in to grow stout — How to meet the enemy — Regulating the diet — Suitable clothing — Exercise, diet, sleep — Regimen produces almost immediate results — Encouragement from frequent weighing — Lotion to prevent the formation of wrinkles after reduction — The treatment not an empty fad, but an accomplished scientific fact ..... 425

Chapter XLIX

Their use and abuse — When properly applied they are neither immoral nor vulgar — Cosmetics are of ancient lineage — A woman fully justified in repairing the damage of years and care — Cosmetics not necessary for a woman under thirty — Fading beauty accentuated by carelessness — Daylight cosmetics — Cosmetics for the home-dinner, opera and ball — Liquid whitener — White face-powder — Formula for rouge — Liquid rouge ........ 434

Chapter L

The perfumer's art has changed little with time — How to hold a flower odor — Only a few flowers yield oils — Essential oils very costly — How to make your own perfumes — How to distill essential oils from flowers — The best flowers for purposes of distillation — " Bouquets " the most successful odors — Extract essence of rose — Lavender toilet water — Florida water — West India bay rum — Sachets — Rose sachet powder — Violet sachet powder — Incense and sweet-scented pastilles for burning — Cologne — Lavender and rose smelling-salts — Heliotrope sachet powder — Formula for fictitious violet water — Potpourri of rose leaves — The abuse of perfumes. 441

CONTENTS

APPENDIX A

PAGE

How Catherine Lane, a human wreck, was restored to

HEALTH AND BEAUTY WITHOUT DRUGS OR STIMULANTS OF

APPENDIX B How Martha Baker was cured of obesity, without drugs. 477

APPENDIX C Easily-made remedies and toilet preparations .

. 499

APPENDIX D List of medicated soaps, with their uses . . • . . 528

APPENDIX E

Table of measures

. 530

General Index .

o a

. 533

PAGE

Harriet Hubbard Ayer, -------- Frontispiece

Mrs. Ayer at 20, from a photograph taken in Rome, Italy, - - 31

Mrs. Ayer and her little daughter, --------32

Transformation op an Ugly Duckling. A.

1. Miss Frankie Jay when she first consulted Mrs. Ayer, - - 37

2. The missing tooth replaced, - - - - - - --37

3. Premature wrinkles removed from brow, _ _ _ _ 37

4. Freckles eradicated, ----__-_. 37 Transformation of an Ugly Duckling. B.

Eyebrows that met over the nose removed. Miss Frankie Jay at

the end of six weeks' treatment, ------ 33

Madame Patti at fifty-four (1898) -------- 43

Madame Bernhardt — her latest photograph (1899) - - - - 44

Mrs. Langtry at the age of sixteen, --------53

Mrs. Langtry — present day (1899) -------- 54

The Duchess of Marlborough (latest picture), an ideal young mother, - 61 English type of beauty — the Princess of Pless, ----- q2

American type of beauty, -----^-_--67

Type of golden-haired beauty, - - - -- -- - - 68

Three American types of beauty, -_-____. 73

Austrian type of beauty, ---------- 74

French type of beauty — Cleo de Merode ---»--- 77 Jewish type of beauty, -------__-7g

Italian type of beauty (old) ---- ;---^_81

Italian type of beauty (modern) -------- 82

The anatomy of a single hair, --------87

How to brush the hair, --------- 88

An artist's model famed for luxuriant hair. No. 1, - - - 93 An artist's model famed for luxuriant hair. No. 2, - - - 94

24 ILLUSTRATIONS

Scalp Massage: page

1. First movement in scalp massage, - - - - - -119

2. Massage gently in line of part, ------- 120

3. Third movement in scalp massage — Eipple movement, - - 123

4. Massage treatment for headache, ____-- i24 The Complexion — Lines and Weinkles:

(1) Petulant lines. (2) The gossip. (3) Conscientious wrinkles.

(4) The cynic. (5) The giggler. (6) Revengeful lines, - - 159 Anatomical chart showing facial muscles : (1) Frontalis muscle. (2) Occipitalis muscle. (3) Orbicularis Palpebrarum muscle. (4) Orbital portion of the Orbicularis Palpebrarum. (5) Compressor Naris muscle. (6) Depressor Alse Nasi muscle. (7) Orbicularis Oris muscle. (8) Levator Labii Superioris muscle. (9) Levator Anguli Oris muscle. (10) Zygomaticus Major. (11) Zygomaticus Minor. (12) Platysma Myoides. (13) Descending portion of Platysma Myoides. (14) Depressor Labii Inferioris. (15) Depressor Anguli Oris. (16) Levator Menti. (18) Temporal muscle. (19) Masseter muscle. (20) Sterno-mastoid muscle. (21) Trapezius muscle, _ - - - 160 Massage for wrinkles in the forehead, _--_-_ 171 Massage for removing laughing wrinkles, ----- 171

Massage movement for removing droop to eyelid, - - - - 172

Massage for making flabby neck firm, ------ 175

Massage for developing the predominating muscles, - - - 175 Massage for developing Mahler muscles, ----- 176

Diagram for Facial Massage :

To remove furrows from the brow, - - - - - - -179

To remove laughing wrinkles, --____- igQ

To remove a droop in the eyelid, ------- 183

For making flabby neck firm, ------- 184

For developing the predominating muscles, ----- 187

For strengthening the Mahler muscles, ----- 188

The perfect eye, __---------- 2OI

An old type of beauty, __---.----- 202

Mrs. X before implantation of teeth, ------ 239

Mrs. X after implantation of teeth, ------ 239

The perfect mouth (profile) __-_---- 240

The perfect mouth (front view) ------- 240

The harmonic poise, ___-----_-- 259

Diagram of normal figure, --------- 260

The stretch of thumb and second finger should measure the face, - 263

The Gibson type of measures, --------- 263

Normal proportions of a woman's figure — 3 illustrations, - - - 264

Normal proportions of a woman's throat, ------ 267

ILLUSTKATIONS 25

PAGE

Normal proportions of a woman's wrist, ------- 268

Normal proportions of a woman's foot, ------- 268

The torture corset, ----------- 273

The middle aged woman with a badly fitting corset. No. 1, - - 274 Same woman with proper fitting corset. No. 2, ----- 274

Corset for slender women who wish the new figure, - - - - 274

Manicuring :

Shape the nails with a velvet file, ^ ----- - 285

Use clippers instead of curved scissors, ----- 285

Showing use of the orange-wood stick in manicuring, - - - 286 Polishing with the buffer, - - -- - - - - 286

To massage the sore joint, ___--__- 313

Rub always from the ankle toward the toes, - - - - 313

To relieve bunions and swollen joints, ------ 314

Use the rotary movement on the outside of foot and ankle, - 317 Support the ball of foot with left hand, ------ 317

Geography of a dissipated woman's face, -__-_- 318

Gymnastics for the little men and women of the four hundred, - 329 Form exercises for grace and strength: (1) Lying flat on back, arms extended above head, chest deflated. (2) Lying on back, arms extended, chest inflated. (3) Seated, arms extended, chest inflated. (4) Lying on back, feet and arms extended upward, chest deflated, -------- 330